Hi everyone

Nob alert Nob alert

I’ve just replaced the rear seal in my engine and like a total nob (see above) I have put it in flush and not with the little .5 mm stick out bit that is prescribed.

Don’t know how it happened but it has.

I can’t see any reason why this should be an issue but allegedly it is.

In your experiences what do you think, don’t really want to take it out and buy another one but will if that is the recommendations.

Couple of pics.

Cheers

Ian


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Welcome, Jonathan.

From what have you been reading that you can't believe and why have you been reading it?  From what I've read, if there is no Hall Sensor sign input to the Motronic—or the Motronic can't process it—there will be neither fuel pressure nor spark. I believe that. Of course, it's easy for me to believe that because I'm not sweating bullets trying to start a K1100.

Hi, thanks for your reply but I don’t understand what you are saying here. It was either this forum or the another K100 forum that suggested the H2O sensor as a possible culprit. As it’s just one of only two sensors that feeds directly into the Motronic,  I had just hoped to rule that out here. What I read might well be rubbish of-course and that’s exactly why I asked. It stated that a broken sensor could continuously report Hot and stop the startup procedure.

Thank you for your suggestion regarding the Hall Sensor to the ignition amp. I’ll check that asap and report back.

Thanks.

Welcome, Jonathan.

From what have you been reading that you can't believe and why have you been reading it?  From what I've read, if there is no Hall Sensor sign input to the Motronic—or the Motronic can't process it—there will be neither fuel pressure nor spark. I believe that. Of course, it's easy for me to believe that because I'm not sweating bullets trying to start a K1100.


Have you been consulting the Motronic 2.1 & 2.2 Training Reference Book available in our Service Bulletins~Brochures section? A diagram from it is attached. According to the diagram, there should be an output signal at pin 12 when cranking.

Hi folks, long time user, first time poster etc etc.
please let me know kindly if I miss step.

I’m a professional custom builder but this is only my second K Bike.

I have run the relevent searches but can’t find an answer. My questions are quite specific as I’ve been troubleshooting for a week now and I need to get this bike out to my client.

I’m currently rebuilding a 1992 K100RS 4v (abs no cat version.)
I have deleted the entire frame loom and replaced it with a motogadget M-Unit Blue system. This all works great (it’s not my first) However, I have kept the engine loom stock.

I have deleted the ABS as I’ve done a K1200/S100RR wheel and front end conversion.
I have deleted the side stand switch
I have deleted the clutch switch
I have a included the fuel pump relay & the fan relay

The bike was ridden into the workshop before disassembly and ran well. However, I have extensively troublshooted the obvious parts/systems when dealing with a no spark issue. The wiring, voltages, resistances all check out on the coils.

The problem:  After the rebuild I find myself with no spark on both coils. The fuel pump primes for 2 seconds at ignition on but does not come on during startup.

So my question is regarding the Motronic:
I have power going to pin 33 and 15. As I said, it sends the signal to prime the pump so it’s doing that bit right but it seems to be blocking proper startup procedures.

Does the Motronic, for security/safety reasons, block the startup procedure by restricting ignition and fuel?

I read that the H2o Sensor can send bad/no signal and that can cause this issue. Is that true? The one in the bike is not showing any resistance so I’ve ordered a new one but I could do with confirmation that that could be the problem.

If not, is there any other reason that the Motronic might block startup like this?

As I’ve said, I’ve run through the bike from battery to plug ends, I have continuity on all earths and the coils check out for resistance and voltages. (Besides, it’s both coils which suggests that it’s not the coils or the hall sensor. They wouldn’t usually go down on both sides at the same time.)

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
I’ve about used up my own knowledge on this and a few other peoples to boot. I don’t want to start shotgunning parts at it (I prefer to hunt with a rifle) but I have swapped out the ignition amp (as I saw this was the issue in another thread) to no avail and the co pot (just because I had a spare in stock)

Thank you.

Jonathan

Bonus. It's good to see an occasional thread that has a quick fix.