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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: bomber737 on December 11, 2013, 09:20:39 AM
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Hi to all on this forum. I just won an auction for a 85 K100. I already have a K100 but it is in parts and it's got 150,000 miles on the engine. The new bike has only 14,000 miles but it came with a salvage title. So my thought was to pull the salvage frame and put my titled frame on this engine. The new bike has been layed down on the right side and the fairing and fairing lowers are a little messed up. So last night I was was comparing the fairing from my first K100 with the new one and there are some big differences. I was wondering if anyone on here can tell me why they are so different. Does the new to me bike have an aftermarket fairing? The windshield is also very different between the two. Here are some pictures of the new to me bike as she sits last night when I got her home. In the rebiuld the gators will be going away, the bike will definately be getting new tires and I will be using the blue body work I have from my other K100.
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Post photos. Without them it's kind of hard to answer your questions.
As there are 3 basic models of K's naked, RT and RS. The fairing of the RT is different from the RS. The other possible answer is that you have an aftermarket fairing.
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The new bike is an '85 K100RT.
You haven't posted pics of the old fairings, so it can be a naked, a K100 w/a "C" fairing or and RT or even an aftermarket fairing on any of those.
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Are the photos not coming up? I did download pictures of the new to me bike as it sits in my shop. Here are a few pictures of the windshield. I noticed that I cut it out in the last bunch of pictures and a photo of the fairing that is from my RS donor bike. I have a windshield for the blue fairing that I know fits.
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The bottom fairing is a RS. The windscreen on the RT is aftermarket.
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I see, thanks for the information. Its coming off anyway unless I can find another fairing that's reasonably priced. Deconstruction has begun, yesterday I ordered a new key. Of course it has to come from Germany. When that get here I will push it outside and see if it fires up and how it runs before I pull it all apart to swap the frame.
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Finding fairings in any kind of shape is getting hard and expensive.
My bike has also been dropped and the repair was less then stellar and a crack is forming in the repair. I love the look of Nakeds and Cafe and that is really the cheap way to go but the fair is so effective on the hwy I think Id miss it. It really puts a big dent in wind noise.
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I guess I am confused, do you need new RS fairing or RT? I have a top RS fairing with windscreen, be glad to trade for your RT windshield.
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I am looking for a nicer RS fairing, the one I have has some road rash on one side. Its not bad and I can fix it I just don't want to spend the cash right now. Parts for this thing are uber expensive if they are in descent shape. I am building my wife a Suzi with a 850 frame and a 1000 engine from parts I had laying around the garage. That project is taking most of my extra cash at the moment. I will not be using the RT fairing and or windshield so email me at bruced737@yahoo.com and we can work out a trade. I had been able to remove the broken RT fairing and lowers and assembling the RS fairing. I could use a set of lowers, I really only need one but to keep everything the same would get a set. The other K100 I have will be definitely be becoming a cafe, not enough parts left to put it back to original.
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I just picked up a fork brace and I was planning on rebuilding the forks. I am looking for a cheaper source for the dust covers or is that just what they cost ($21 each)? What do most people upgrade the springs to? I am running a set of sonic straight rate springs with gold cartridge emulators and a Trazzoin for brace on it. I will be having a custom rear shock made for this bike. I have a set of those on my GS and they are the best. Damp in both directions and the guy can put any spring rate you want in them. Think he charges around $200 to $250 to build you a set. My GS shocks cost me $450 for the set. They are rebuildable and the guy is great to deal with if anyone on here is interested in getting a new shock. His site is Deycore.com
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Had time last night to work on the bike a little. I was going to charge the battery and I found a bunch of corrosion of the neg lead. While I was wrenching the bolt and nut out the darn lead broke off the battery. So last night I got a new one ordered. It's to bad the neg didn't look like the pos lead, it was in perfect shape. Man I have a bunch of batteries to bring in for recycling. One thing I forgot to ask, I am planning on pulling the trans off the bike so I can get the splines lubed and I was watching a video of the procedure on youtube. In the video they pull the exhaust as one piece with the mount and that looks like what I will do. My question is do you need to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets or can they be reused?
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Replace the gaskets. Better safe than sorry, and they do not cost that much even from BMW.
Battery post paint will help with the battery post corrosion problems.
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In theory, you should be able to pull the muffler off and leave the header pipes, even on my rusted 85 I was able to do it. Remove the rear wheel and then WD the junctions and then it pulls (wiggles) right off, leaving the header pipes in place.
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If your RT windshield is in good shape. And, you're interested in selling it, I may be interested in purchasing it.
Tom
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Sorry, another guy already made a deal with me to trade me the stuff I need for my RS fairing for that windshield. I was able to get some work done on the bike. I have ordered new fork seals, dust covers, throttle cable and clutch cable. I already got my new battery and installed it, pushed the bike outside as I am not allowed to fire up stuff in the house. Not even if I open the window in the shop. Some people are just not much fun. Since I got the bike from a place that sells insurance totaled vehicles I didn't know if it ran or not. I put the key in and it fired right up and purred. What a great feeling listening to that engine run like it should and not make any weird noises. The valves even sound like they are in adjustment. I pulled it back inside and started tearing it down. Since I have a few months I will be pulling the trans and lubing all the splines. I got the rear diff pulled and found the splines to be in good shape and there was plenty of lube still in there. I understand it tends to creep up the shaft when you put a lot of miles on. The swing arm came off quite easily but the clutch boot(cup) had ruptured and has been seeping oil out so the back of the trans is a total mess. I will be soda blasting that clean and under the battery box is corroded as well. if the aluminum didnt have such a rough finish I would just polish it all up. The output shaft splines are in good shape as well. Next I pulled the exhaust off and all but the last 2 studs came out with the nut so those will all get replaced but I will be leaving the last 2. I pulled the frame because I have a clear title on the frame from the other K100 I have so that will be going on when I get new head bearings installed and the forks rebuilt. So the last picture is how it sits right now.
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Finally had time to work on the k100 today. I got the side stand mount removed and I got the trans pulled. Was not a bad job at all, just messy with the oil leaking from the clutch actuator. I did find that there is a little oil underneath the clutch. I am not sure if any can be in there or if I need to replace some perished seals. Maby some one on the forum can tell me what I need to buy and replace? At least I will have piece of mind that I know things are not leaking and lubed well before I start riding the bike this spring.
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Check out Max BMW fiche site, it helps put things together. Your rear seal is probably shot/leaking, you are this far, replace it. 11-11-7-666-186, but there is one on FleaBay now :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BMW-Crankshaft-Rear-Main-Seal-11117666186-K75-K100-K1-K1100-K1200-/161186075990?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2587705556&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BMW-Crankshaft-Rear-Main-Seal-11117666186-K75-K100-K1-K1100-K1200-/161186075990?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2587705556&vxp=mtr)
And read up on the replacement on ibmwr.org, helpful and I think there are pictures here, but start with:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/mainseal.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/mainseal.shtml)
I think the two most important things are keeping the clutch lined up, mark all the parts as they come off, keep them together in the same way and second leave a small part of seal exposed, I think the recommendation is .05mm.
You might want to look into the tools Ken lively offers: polepenhollow@yahoo.com, they are pretty cheap and do the trick for re-installing the clutch and getting it lined up. Or you can use a screwdriver with duct tape on it, but the tool is way easier. IMO
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Thanks for the link to the seal, that saved me 15 bucks. I will get the other stuff ordered today from Max so I can get this job done. I think I will just order the alignment tool from that guy you sent me his email. Quicker and easier to do it right the first time with the correct tool. My only problem now is which fiber washer to use. They list 2 different sizes and I am not sure which one is correct and they are 7 bucks different in price. Any thoughts anyone?
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You mean the washer for clutch 873 or 813? I re-used the existing one, not need to order a new one of those, order the star washers (377) and the bolts (417) along with the nut(797), o ring(467) and compression ring(696). Be sure and check your clutch plate thickness while you are there.
And yeah compared to other bike BMW parts are expensive, but you can get them!
Happy New Year!!
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Yes I do mean 873 or 813 for the fiber washer. I guess I would like to replace all the washers and other parts I can. I had planned on checking the clutch disk. The bike only has 14,000 miles on it and it appears that the bike has been cared for when it was being used. I did order part 813 since it was cheaper so we will see what the bike has inside it. All the other parts have been ordered so now it's just a waiting game. in the mean time I am keeping busy wire brushing all the oxidation off the trans, swing arm and rear diff. Starting to look like a BMW should. A new set of tires are going on the rims right now. Yeah I love new tires.
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I got bored today and started looking at the sad state of the finish on the trans, rear diff, and swing arm and busted out the wire brush. Hours later and a pile of dust and the parts look quite nice I think. I like the sand cast look so I think I will just leave them as they are and protect them with some Autosol. I do have a question, can anyone tell me what the 2 alignment pins are for on the back side of the trans? I kept the rubber cushions for them I just can't remember what was there.
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Found time again to get some work done on the K. I got the clutch pulled and started working on getting the last clutch part out. I got everything marked so I can re-install it the same way it was. I only found 1 factory mark so I am making sure I know how each part goes back exactly. I have not measured the friction disc yet but it looks to have plenty life left in it. I need to get my puller on the last clutch part to get it off. That o-ring is being stubborn. When I pulled it forward it started leaking oil out. Is this normal? I already have a new rear main seal to go in.
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The two pins on the tranny are to locate the rear plastic fender.
Looks like you're having fun. You wanna polish all my bare aluminum for me? I'm not looking forward to it.
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Ha, ya no. I decided to paint my trany, swing arm and diff. They look great I am very happy with how they turned out and hopefully I wont have to worry about corrosion anymore. I finally got around to pulling the old tires off the rims and to my surprise they came off easier than 90% of the tires I have changed lately. These rims are dirty, doesn't anyone clean their bike anymore? These are a dirty oil mess so I guess I have to go get some kerosene and another toothbrush and get started. My new front tire will be showing up today and I would like to get it mounted. I am planning on removing the front rotors so I can wire brush them replace the deformed nuts with a nice set of nylock nuts. I was thinking of replacing the front wheel bearings so I started reading the manual. Do you really need to heat the hub? I have a bearing removal tool and have never had a problem pulling them out before. Do I run the risk of fracturing the hub if I just pound them out?
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More work done today, I got the rims cleaned up, rear tire mounted and the final coat of paint on the rear end stuff. Now I am just waiting for the rest of the parts from MAX and my new front tire. Hope it all gets here soon. I want to have the bike back together by February. As soon as the snow is gone I will be out riding. Now I just need to balance it so off to harbor freight tomorrow to look at balancing stands. I don't think the one I already have will work on this rim.
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Hi bomber737, have you tried any of the dynamic balancing products? I have used dyna beads with great results...
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Hey, funny you should say that but I just ordered 20oz of those Dyna beads just this morning. I started rebuilding my my forks, I did find out that the springs in them are the OEM springs so I ordered a set of progressive's. I pulled the whole thing apart and getting the lower damping rod back in with that darn washer/seal thing was a real p.i.a. Getting that back in properly took as long to get in as it did to pull them apart. I wire brushed the fork lowers so they look as nice as the rear end did. I plan to paint them once I get the new seals back in.
Now I am trying to replace the fork seals and I can't find/figure out how/where the retainer clip is. I have basically destroyed all the rubber and I am left with what looks like a metal ring that seems to have no split or notch to get it out. Can anyone help me with a picture of what I am looking for so I can replace these seals?
BTW hows the skiing been out there? You guys have been getting lots of snow lately.
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Now I am trying to replace the fork seals and I can't find/figure out how/where the retainer clip is.
It isn't any retainer clip(s) above the seal(s) on a -85.
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Ok thanks, I will change my strategy when removing that fork seal. Perhaps a little heat will help loosen it up. I have been working on the rear main seal and I got it out no problem. Now I am wondering if I purchased the updated seal or not. The old one looks completely than the new one. I have been told that I might have purchased the wrong one though. I also concerned I messed something up when I was removing the last part of the clutch. I had to use my 3 armed gear puller and while I was pulling the clutch part I heard a pop and when I got it off I looked inside there and the guide in the center of the output shaft had moved back into the shaft about 2mm. Will this be a problem when I reassemble the clutch? Should I try and pull it forward and make it flush with the shaft like it was?
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Well I finally had more time to work on the brick. I got almost all the parts I have been waiting for. I got the new rear main seal installed and the clutch remounted with a new oring. I tried to mark all the clutch parts well and I think I got it back together just the way it came off. I measured the clutch plate and it was 5mm so it was well with in tolerance. I am glad I purchased the alignment tool, it made it so much easier to do the job. I got the trany re-installed with some help from the girlfriend. I give her rubber gloves so she isn't against helping :2thumbup:. I could not find the BMW alignment tools any where for sale so I improvised, I found out that the studs for my snowmobile head are long enough and the right thread so I used 4 of those and with just a little coaxing the trany went right in. Now I know the splines are all lubed properly and should be good for a long time. I had time so I started cleaning the engine. I found that the sensor behind the airbox did not have the leads attached. So I removed it and cleaned the contacts and tightened the clips, they wont fall off now. I don't have my new throttle cable yet, should be here this week but well see. I did get the new clutch cable mounted. I am so glad I bagged all the small parts. I got the new radiator hoses installed also, I am still having trouble feeding the one through the crank cover. Is there a trick to getting this one in?
I replaced the head bearings and races and mounted the handle bar mounts. I also got the frame re-installed and the handlebars. Now at least the left side control is all done and the clutch works great. I am not sure what to do about the poor looks of the buttons on the controls, they look very sun faded and the lettering is all but gone.
I started working on cleaning up the engine since the rear end looks so nice I cant have the engine be so grimy. Most of the wire brushing is done on the left side and front but I need to get a softer brush for the final cleaning. I will be painting side covers as I remove them to replace seals and check the valves
I have been reading about the hotter (Euro) cams that were installed in the 85's and was asked to look at the numbers on mine when I look at the valves. From my readings it seems the cams dont have numbers stamped on them and the ones with the euro cams did not have a breather on the font of the engine. My bike does have this breather but its blanked off. So I am not sure what I have. Any help here from the learned members of the forum?
I was looking through the boxes of parts I have from my RS and I noticed that the rear disk was drilled. Is this a feature of the RS? My RT disk is not drilled. I have the service history for the RS from 25,000 miles and it seems that the gauge cluster was replaced at one time and the trany also. I am guessing no spline lube = new trany. I would like to put the better tach in the gauges I will be using on this project since it has a nice gear indicator. Is this easy to accomplish? I am planning on drilling a hole in both clusters to prevent condensation and taking them apart to clean all the contacts as per the tutorial I have. I did notice the parts bike gauge cluster does not have the 7L light and it mounts different. I am guessing this is a newer style.
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Back at it yesterday. I got the forks rebuilt and installed progressive springs. I made them the same length as the stock springs so I am sure I will have to fiddle with them to get the sag correct when the bike is back on 2 wheels. I primed them and painted them so they now look as good as the rear end. I also got the battery tray and holder sand blasted and painted. Really looks nice, now if I can keep battery acid off it it will stay looking good. My new throttle cable finally arrived, or more accurately I finally got home from work and got it installed. The grease on the handle bar sleve was old and sticky so I pulled that and got new grease in there. Works nice and smooth now. I also got the right side control re-installed and adjusted, I am still not happy with the washed out color and lack of labeling on the controls but I will have to deal with that at a later date.
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The work continues on, I got the swing arm and rear diff re-mounted and also the rear tire. I am very pleased with the way it looks. I am using dyna beads for tire balance and those things are a real pain to get in the tire. I would up using 3 feet of clear 1/4" fuel line so I could watch the rate they were going in. more than once did they plug up the valve stem. So my advise if you are going to use beads put them inside the tire before you seat the bead or pour very slowly. I am sure some of you are going to bash my tire choice but before you do I have used these kenda challengers on a few other bikes and I have found that they wear well and have good traction, even in rain. I have a set on my Suzuki GS1000 and these bikes weigh roughly the same. So far they have lasted 6500 miles and I will be running them for 1 more season on that bike. If they wear out faster on the K I will try something different. I have the wire loom installed and started getting it in the correct place and I put the airbox back in not realizing I needed to get the foam heat things installed first. So next time I work on it I will have to pull the airbox and get it placed. Ii am a little concerned that it might brake, it is quite thin in the middle so well see. I am continuing brushing the engine cases and I am almost done with them. I think a nice coat of autosol will keep them shinny until I can get them painted. I cleaned the side and center stand and found the paint to be in great shape so I just re-installed it and called it lovely. Next week I hope to get the wire loom sorted and brushing all done so I can install the forks and fire the bike up. I am not sure why I am in a hurry since when I left yesterday it was -16 degrees and we still have 3 feet of snow.