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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: gsxrpig on July 21, 2016, 02:37:42 AM
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Posted this in the second half of another post.
BUT
has anyone successfully swapped a 92 gsxr 750 front end into a k100??
With stock clip ons. I have found one person but he used above triple bars.
Worried about turning circle and tank clearance.
Got the k100 down to bare frame so was thinking of bringing the tank mounts back 50mm??? Any issues with that idea?
And maybe shaping the front of the tank to allow a bit more clearance?.
I can't seem to find a definite answer??
I have a spare front end that I would love to use.
Then I was going to use a k1100 rear to give me a better tyre selection
Any tips or points to relevant topics or threads would be great.
Thanks in advance..great forum
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Maybe you could ask paul in his blog page for the clip on
http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2014/05/16/84-bmw-k100rs-paul-hutchison.html
I am trying to convert the front end also using 2003/4 GSXR front end, unfortunately I have not able to finish it yet.
I have not found any pictures with the raised fuel tank but some with modified tank, I don't know if it is raised or not.
http://www.bottegabastarda.it/portfolio-items/bmw-k100-cafe-racer-bobber/
http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2015/10/14/bmw-k1100rs-cooters-cafe.html
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better solution is maybe raised the framed like the picture below rather than modifying the gas tank.
http://www.bikeexif.com/k100
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Thanks for the reply.
The Hornet he used 2000 R1 forks. Different beast. I would love to get an email to the owner but have no idea how to contact him??
I have a 92 Gsxr front end in the shed.
This is where I am at with it.
It is just a mock fit up, so have to get the stem machined, but I am going to push ahead.
It hits the bottom seem of the tank before full lock up.
Had to shift the clip ons from there factory position. Normally on this model they bolt back up to the top triple to set them into position.
If it works I may look at getting a set of aftermarket clip ons with double bolt fixings.
I will post results.
I will get them to work but the riding results may be a whole different can of whiparse....only one way to find out.. :falldown:
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are you going to still use bmw oem switch control or suzuki? it looks like you have a different lever.
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Just for looks at the moment.
Will try and keep the Bmw switchblocks.
But I have read that most need to upgrade the master cylinder to accomodate the upgrade in brakes.
That is a way off at the moment. Just need to get the forks to work.
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Have you seen this page? https://k75projeckt.wordpress.com/fork-it/
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Hi Rbm.
Yep, I have.
BUT he bolted his bars to the top of the triples.
I was all excited when I saw the post but it ended pretty quickly.
Nothing in there about tank clearance. My set up here, the forks hit the bottom edge of the tank. I have swang the clip ons out of the way so they will work, next will be turning circle dramas.
I need to get a stem machined and pressed in then start working on some new steering stops on the frame.
With the bars on top it eliminates clip on problems but that is not the look I am after.
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A guy over at dotheton.com put GSXR forks on his K100. I think there were issues with sharp turns. And as others have pointed out, people seem to have managed R1 front forks but I'm guessing it involves a lot of machining and probably isn't cheap even if you get the forks for free.
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Found some interesting discussions in the suzuki tl forum the location where you could put the stopper:
http://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/77089-04-05-gsxr-forks-tls-4.html
http://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/109028-steering-stop-gsxr-forks.html
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An USD fork known to work well with the K100 headstock is the Ninja ZX7R front end. Requires different 52mm bearings, but stem length is right on. Uses Standard 20mm axle just like K100, only needs wheel spacers. Uses 52/34mm roller bearings but need to turn stem down only few 1/10 mm to size for bearing. Press out steering stem, turn on lathe, reinstall in lower triple. I'd Advise to pin the stem for security. Can also use aftermarket triple with adjustable offset instead of the stock triple to set fork rake. Standard Nisin brakes fit 320mm disks on K100 wheels.
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Rbm
Yes I saw that in an article somewhere about the Kawasaki front.
Problem is my Gsxr front is mine already, sitting in my shed wanting to be used...lol
I think it will be an easy turning job as well.
Just need to get a different top bearing as the standard bottom fits the Bmw.
The design of the shaft will allow the new bearing to be fitted further down the shaft and both threads will be cut the same distance down also.
Trying to track down a old fitter and turner I use to know to see if it is possible.
Will let you know the results.
Thanks
for the reply as well. I appreciate all the ideas.
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You could consider replacing the OEM triple with aftermarket offset triple that will be adjustable. That way, you can increase the clearance between the tank and forks, preventing the interference.
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Yep. i am considering the clip on swap definitely.
Have to wait a week to get my tapered bearings.
Just spoke to the engineer and booked it in for late next week.
Press the stem out and continue the top bearing mount down about 20mm then redo both top threads the same cut off the excess and should work.
Thinking of putting in a locking grub screw to lock the shaft after it is pressed back in.
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Do you have the pictures? I am sure it will be beneficial for all of us, specially if you could write the steps also.
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Still waiting on bearings mate, so I am at a standstill.
Will keep you posted.
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Work and other projects have kicked me in the pants and stopped me on the Bmw.
Forks fitted.
Rear cowl glassed and ready for prep.
Tank is welded and actually holds fuel...hahaha
Seat base is a work in progress.
NOW i have moved onto wiring...The nightmare has begun..lol
This is my aim and please tell me if I am crazy.
Because I am using the GSXR front end I thought I would use the switchblocks and clip ons as well. I have spoken to a few guys and they feel I need to bulk up the master cylinder to be successful with the 4 pot calipers on the gsxr. I have the switchblock handle and master cylinder there to use...so I will have to blend these into the bmw system which is pretty similar except the auto cut off on the indicators and the indicators switch is entirely on the LHS. I am happy to attack this.
BUT next I have decided to use the gsxr instrument panel also.
Uses the front wheel to feed the speedo with a cable so that will be easy.
Nice functional Tacho
and a Temp gauge.
The only dash lights are indicators left and right
High beam
Oil light
and finally Neutral light.
I have a gear indicator light on its way also.
The issue here will be getting everything to work without the BMW instrument panel which is like a brick but a very smart brick :hehehe
Eliminating a lot of features but how to trick the computer to allow me to use the bike normally will be my issue.
Been trying to research and have considered the motogadget. It seems expensive but firstly I would love someone to indicate if what I am doing is in fact, even possible. The motogadget would seem cheap if I spend a month trying to get the gsxr stuff to work and in the end it was never even possible.
Thanks in advance..open to any help advice or opinions.
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... This is my aim and please tell me if I am crazy.
... I have the switchblock handle and master cylinder there to use...so I will have to blend these into the bmw system which is pretty similar except the auto cut off on the indicators and the indicators switch is entirely on the LHS.
Ditch the BMW signal relay and replace it with a compatible Japanese signal relay, hopefully a LED compatible one because you probably will also follow the mainstream tactic of substituting LEDs for globes. While you're at it, consider replacing the vast majority of the signalling wiring by using a Motogadget M-unit.
Been trying to research and have considered the motogadget. It seems expensive but firstly I would love someone to indicate if what I am doing is in fact, even possible. The motogadget would seem cheap if I spend a month trying to get the gsxr stuff to work and in the end it was never even possible.
Thanks in advance..open to any help advice or opinions.
The choice of gauge is largely immaterial to the operation of the bike. Many of the functions you loose by removing the OEM gauge are not replaced with the addition of an after-market gauge. Surely the indicators and clocks replace equivalent functions in the OEM gauge. However, functions such as Start Enable, Neutral Detect, RTC, Gear Indicator, Charge Indicator and so on are not available on any after-market gauge. These functions will need to be simulated with additional circuitry.
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Check out Mike Flores K100 build. It's very similar to yours with the USD forks. His wiring is top notch. Perhaps you can pick his brain.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8807.0.html
Other than that, your build is looking very nice. Looking forward to seeing the finish product.
P.S. Did you get that custom rearset built or bought?
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I made the rearsets...they are mixture of Gsxr pegs and master cylinder I had off another project and just made the brackets up on my cnc for the templates and got them locally watercut out of 10mm ally. Bit of playing around but they will be nice.
Thanks for the tip on the wiring...I will head over to the link when I get time.
I had to step away from this build for a fair few weeks and unfortunately I will only get another week before other stuff will stall my progress.
Need some wiring done to keep me happy :clap:
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Ditch the BMW signal relay and replace it with a compatible Japanese signal relay, hopefully a LED compatible one because you probably will also follow the mainstream tactic of substituting LEDs for globes. While you're at it, consider replacing the vast majority of the signalling wiring by using a Motogadget M-unit.
The choice of gauge is largely immaterial to the operation of the bike. Many of the functions you loose by removing the OEM gauge are not replaced with the addition of an after-market gauge. Surely the indicators and clocks replace equivalent functions in the OEM gauge. However, functions such as Start Enable, Neutral Detect, RTC, Gear Indicator, Charge Indicator and so on are not available on any after-market gauge. These functions will need to be simulated with additional circuitry.
RBM thanks for the reply...I am in over my head as you can gather
I am actually going against the trend and not using LED's...lol. Sticking with Globes on this one as the indicators I liked are in fact globes and I just like em.
My budget at the moment is screaming no to motogadget...but it would make my life easier.
The Gsxr instrument panel is pretty basic. That was my question, the functions I do not use I will have to add something to trick the computer into thinking they are still in use. That is where I will come unstuck :popcorm , I will chip away and see what I can find, someone will have done it, so hopefully I can get some assistance because it truly is my weak point... :beehive:
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Well after stuffing around all day.
I have Right hand switch block with kill switch. Start switch. Lights on/off
Left hand switch block with horn, Hi and low beam, also Pass button AND Indicators.
BUT and with my electrical work there is always a but.
My indicators are flashing like crazy??? I kept the original wiring. this may be an issue.
BRM if you are out there....I went and bought a relay and started as you suggested but got lost....although I was lost for a long time on trying to get the originals to work as well :beatdeadhorse:
Tomorrow I will get rid of the Bulb monitoring unit, but I read on another post that it will not affect the flashers..
They are 10 watt bulbs but it is acting like they are led's---- flashing fast.
I do have a 2 prong flasher I have used on another Led project with success...maybe put that inline and see?
Also need to sort out the rear taillight.
Any advice would be great..thanks in advance
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Gsxrpig,
Can you be specific about which control sets you are using? Are they the ones from your donor 1992 GSX-R 750?
You are correct in saying that eliminating the BMU will not have any effect upon your flasher problem.
A Japanese flasher circuit is quite simple. A source of power connects to one side of the flasher, powering it. The output on the second pin will be a source of regular 12V pulses that goes to the wiper of the indicator switch, a single pole double throw centre off switch. The purpose of the switch is to route these regular pulses either to parallel connected lights on the left side or right side of the bike, depending on which side of the switch is selected. The rapid flashing indicates too little electrical load, meaning you've introduced a wiring error.
Can you post a schematic on how you connected your indicator circuit? If it were me, I would
1. connect the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires from the old flasher to the indicator switch in the left hand controls
2. connect the Green/Black wire from the old flasher to the new 2-pin flasher
3. run a new wire from the 2-pin flasher to the indicator switch in the left hand controls
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While you're at it, consider replacing the vast majority of the signalling wiring by using a Motogadget M-unit.
How much of the wiring harness can you actually replace with the m-Unit? I've seen varying reports
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Hi RBM,
Sorry for the late reply, I was having trouble getting onto the site Friday and Saturday our time. Then a long weekend.
I am using a LHand switchblock off a 92 gsxr.
But a RHand switchblock off a 90 model. I did this because the 90 has an on/off switch for the headlight. So I can turn them off for start ups.
1990 BMW k100
So from LHAND suzuki colors to BMW
Yellow 3 black dots to White
White 3 black dots to Yellow
Yellow/White to White/Yellow
Orange/Red to Green/Blue
Black/White to Blue/Brown
Lt Green 1 black to Rhand side Blue/Yellow
Lt Blue 1 black to Rhand side Brown also Brown/White
RHAND switch block
Yellow/Green to Black/Yellow
Orange/Black to Black/Green also Green
Orange/White to Green/Yellow
Grey to Green/Blue
Orange/Blue to White/Yellow
Orange/Red to Grey/Blue]
Yellow/White suzuki unused.
BMU has been removed.
Grey/Black joined to 2 Grey/White
Grey/Yellow joined to Grey/Red and Grey/Green.
Tail light works with key switch in park. But if you depress a brake pedal it goes off?
With the key fully on the tail light does not work but the brake light works as it should.
no power to fuse 2 when the key is fully on.
Hopefully you can get through my ramblings and see where the problem is.
I will have a better read of your post and see if I can get the aftermarket relay to work .
Thanks for the help BRM you are a legend. :clap:
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RBM
If I pull power from the Green/Black vacant wire in the "connection for special Equipment" in my wiring diagram the tail light comes on with the ignition all the way on. Brake light works as normal..
But in park the tail light comes on but still if I depress the brake it will go off.
So I got something wrong.
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I tried to decipher your textual description of how you connected wires but I'm unable to make heads or tails of it since I don't have Suzuki wiring charts corresponding to your selected hand controls. Sorry, but without a schematic of how you've tried to hook this up, I'm lost.
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RBM
That makes two of us.
I do not have a color coded wiring diagram or even a labeled diagram for the suzuki.
I will draw something up if it helps.
I think I have them pretty close.
I am onto the Instrument panel.
The speedo is fed directly from the GSXR wheel so it will work.
SO i have to hook up----
Tacho
Left and Right indicator lights.
Oil light.
High beam light.
Neutral light.
Dash lights for Tacho and speedo
Also a Temperature gauge.
I have an aftermarket gear indicator coming also.
Any help in this area would be helpful. The other functions from the standard gauge I do not want to use IF possible.
Thanks RBM.
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RBM
On this bit
1. connect the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires from the old flasher to the indicator switch in the left hand controls
2. connect the Green/Black wire from the old flasher to the new 2-pin flasher
3. run a new wire from the 2-pin flasher to the indicator switch in the left hand controls
Step 2 ...I don't have a Green Black on my flasher?? Did you mean Green Brown which will feed from Fuse 3 ,,by any chance?
Indicators working perfectly with new led flasher 2 pin.
Dragged the power off green Brown.
Switchblocks done at this stage
Instrument advice would be great. Although I will attack in the meantime.. :popcorm
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Ok,
So got most of the instruments done.
I have pulled the Gear positioning sensor from the stock gauges and am going to relocate to the fuse box.
From what I have read.
On the circuit board numbers.
pin 31 is ground and will hook to wire 13 Brown in the harness.
pin Leerl is 12v to illuminate the Netral which will connect to wire 5 Black Green to start button.
Pin C is to wire 2 Yellow White
Pin B is to wire 3 Yellow Black
Pin A is wire 4 Yellow Blue
Pin 15 is 12v to wire 6 Green Black which should take me to fused power.
Can anyone see a problem or confirm I am heading in the right direction with this??
Please and Thanks for any reply.
BRM if you are out there, would your circuit board work to replace this? happy to buy one off you.
The build is still a long way from finished, but I want to get the bike started then I can strip and move onto paint.
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Ok,
So got most of the instruments done.
I have pulled the Gear positioning sensor from the stock gauges and am going to relocate to the fuse box.
From what I have read.
On the circuit board numbers.
pin 31 is ground and will hook to wire 13 Brown in the harness.
pin Leerl is 12v to illuminate the Netral which will connect to wire 5 Black Green to start button.
Pin C is to wire 2 Yellow White
Pin B is to wire 3 Yellow Black
Pin A is wire 4 Yellow Blue
Pin 15 is 12v to wire 6 Green Black which should take me to fused power.
Can anyone see a problem or confirm I am heading in the right direction with this??
Please and Thanks for any reply.
BRM if you are out there, would your circuit board work to replace this? happy to buy one off you.
The build is still a long way from finished, but I want to get the bike started then I can strip and move onto paint.
I think you have everything right but I can't be 100% sure because don't have a schematic for it. There is a picture of one online and it looks like there is some CMOS logic on-board as well as some pwer circuitry. The only thing I'd caution is to make sure the Leer output is somehow connected to an on-board power transistor so that you have reasonable assurance that it is the correct pin to use. You don't want to toast the board. Test the output first using a voltmeter to see that it responds as you expect. Trace the circuit to make sure pin 15 goes to pwer pins on the CMOS and pin 31 goes to ground pins.
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Work has kept me off the project.
Back to it yesterday.
I am getting the fuel pump to prime.
and the starter relay will click BUT the starter will not fire.
Brand new battery, tried a couple of batteries as well.
Getting 12 Volt.
Currently I have the green 12v feed wire to one side of the gsxr kill switch. The Green yellow is on the ON side of the kill switch and feeds 12V to the starter button...Which feeds the Black and yellow wire to starter relay etc
For this reason I have left the Black and green wire not connected.
Any ideas where to look.
I have pulled the starter and bench tested.
Tried numerous batteries.
I hooked up the gear positioning circuit and it was the same.
Tried to wiring the 2 clutch sensor wires together as well.
Always the same.
I disconnected the gear positioning sensor also.
If i am not using the black green feed wire on the switch from the clutch switch and Gear indicator to give me 12V to the start switch..I would presume this circuit is eliminated anyway??
As always anyone with any ideas where to head would be great.
Mind hurting stuff this is for me..
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Bad ground connection engine/gearbox/battery?
Try a jump cable between one of the starter mounting bolts and the battery negative post.
Do you have 12V+ at the starter relay output (or starter input) when the relay clicks?
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Inge K
Does that wiring sound right, and that should eliminate the Gear sensor and clutch switch as I have not hooked up the 12V feed wire.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the delay, time difference gets me everytime.
I did clean the contacts on the starter and block.
I have been chasing my tail everywhere.
I have tried shorting the starter relay terminal across the terminals and still nothing.
I have tried disconnecting the battery and hooking directly to the starter motor...nothing.
Just now I have taken the starter motor off the bike and hooked the battery up.
I am now getting a constant 12Volts to the starter motor wire with the ignition on even WITHOUT pushing the start button.
Of coarse the relay is reading the same at both points.. :popcorm
So something is terribly wrong..relay?? It is not constantly clicking but may be stuck or corroded??? That has me puzzled for the moment
I would be excited but the test hooking the starter motor up to direct power should have given me cranking.
I have pulled the sprag clutch out for repairs...so maybe I have missed something mechanically as well.
I have put the bike in gear and the motor is not seized...I will continue searching.
Hopefully we are getting closer.
Please continue with your ideas...I am open to suggestions and will try anything suggested.
Cheers people
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I have tried disconnecting the battery and hooking directly to the starter motor...nothing.
Just now I have taken the starter motor off the bike and hooked the battery up.
If the starter don't turn when it's out of the bike, then it's a problem with the starter.
If the starter turns when it's out of the bike, but not when its mounted on the bike and directly wired
to a battery ......it most probably a problem with the starter mechanism inside the intermediate flange.
I am now getting a constant 12Volts to the starter motor wire with the ignition on even WITHOUT pushing the start button.
Of coarse the relay is reading the same at both points.. :popcorm
Then the starter relay have welded together its contacts, usually caused by to much voltage drop when
turning the starter. (this if you have 12V to the starter with ignition both on and off).
Not an unusual problem, try to give the starter relay a gently knock with a screwdriver handle.
You find a lot of info about this on the forum....what to do and not.
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Very very strange.
We have cranking :clap: Thank the lord I was loosing my mind.
Went through everything I could think of on Saturday and still no luck.
Spat the dummy and left it till this morning.
Next thing today she is cranking like nothing was ever wrong.
The bike had been sitting for many many years with a faulty sprag.
Saturday I sprayed a heap of wd-40 down the barrels and put
it in 5th and pushed it round and round and round and round the carpark...
Tried it again and same thing...nothing. So walked away to ponder.
Today I just rocked the rear wheel back and forth without the starter motor on.
Then put the starter back in and she cranked as you would expect. I had actually resigned myself to tear it down again and see if I had done something wrong on the sprag clutch rebuild..
So now to put the tank on and she if the old girl will start.
Then hopefully it goes and tidy up the wiring and strip it back for painting.
Thanks for the help along the way....But I predict I may be back soon..
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Take some of the oil out and replace it with the contents of a can of SeaFoam engine and fuel system cleaner. When the engine starts, take it out for a 20 minute ride and then do an oil and filter change. I did this with a sticky sprag in a K100RS with over 110,000 miles on it and haven't had one starter problem in the 4,000 miles since.
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Well not much happening here...still waiting on my injectors to return from getting cleaned.
Tidying up my wiring.
I have eliminated the gear position and clutch circuit. So have 12V source direct to the Lhand switchblock. The Green/Black is not connected. Nor the return Black green. And I have my three yellow wires and Earth off the Gear sensor all put aside at this point.
I have decided to live without the gear indicator as I have never had one on any of my bikes.
I would however like a neutral light on my dash.
Being a Gsxr standard instrument panel I have the light there so
1. Do I need to build the 3 relay circuit and just hook up to the neutral light??
below is a schematic as in a lot of posts...I think this is Inge K 's work...to credit him.
2. I have a Temperature gauge in the gsxr panel is all that is left up to wire...
I have my doubts this is even possible to get working as the Bmw sensor is for a bulb only????
Any hints on these 2 points and hopefully I can put the wiring to rest in the next few days.
Cheers in advance
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1. Yes, you will need to build the relay circuit to get your neutral indicator to work. The circuit you published above is for an Active HIGH indicator, meaning you apply +12V to the indicator to make it light up. Is that the case for the GSXR panel? If so, great. If not, then you'll need a fourth relay to invert the neutral signal.
2. There is nothing stopping you from finding a thermistor that is compatible with the GSXR gauge and inserting that thermistor in place of the water drain plug in the water/oil pump, so long as the thread match as well as the electrical characteristics. That will give you water temperature indication. If you are looking for oil temperature indication, replace the drain plug in the oil pan with a thread compatible sensor.
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RBM.
Thanks again for the reply.
I have been struggling to find time on the bike. Hopefully my injectors are close to finished.
The Gsxr looks to have 12v and the light is triggered with ground???
So 4th relay it is.
That is the info I am after for the temp gauge I will start looking into it further.
On a positive I am getting close to done on the wiring. I will get it going then I have a final strip and paint to follow.
I will post my results with the wiring ,,thanks again
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Bad news.
Injector guy rang and said the injectors are very clogged and not firing electrically as they should as though they are faulty????
Like I have said i have never heard the bike go and the previous owner just parked it with fuel in the tank for many years.
SO
had to purchase some recoed injectors. So more down time.
Am trying to source the temp sensor to fit into the water pump drain as suggested by RBM. just struggling to find the electrical specs from the 93 Gsxr gauge.
May have to start stripping it down for paint and deal with mechanical when I am done.... :nono
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See if the GSXR one will fit with suitable adapters.
Regards Martin.
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Martin...I sold the rest of my gsxr to fund this project... :musicboohoo:
I have a mate who has one out of a later model that we are going to try.
Different part numbers and mine is a normal gauge, the later model is digital.
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Try the wreckers at Slacks Creek if you are in Brisbane.
Regards Martin.
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Okay.
had a blank space in my gsxr dash that i could fit the bulb for the charging system. 12v ignition feed and hooked to blue feed wire from alternator so it is sorted.
I managed to test the temperature gauge and it is working with the sensor from the later model gsxr. The thread is ever so slightly different to the BMW. So another obstacle.
I have seen on some of the threads that there is a bmw part that fits some models. So i will look into that one but a heads up on years and models would be good. I think I found one but it was over $100 bucks in OZ.
BUT
my last couple of wires to sort(hopefully)
Do i need to connect the Violet/Black wire from the original cluster....I can't see a need but want to make sure. I do not have a light for this feature.
And
Violet White for the choke light...I do not have this light either.
Happy to live without both.
Then dare I say it I am done with the electrical....although I probably should not type that...
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If you want to ignore overheating situations, then you don't need to connect the Violet/Black (Overtemp) indicator. It is possible to use a wired-OR connection to have one indicator on your dash signal two separate conditions. Use 1N4001 diodes wired as shown in the following schematic:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7ZmOkpZtiiO0Rh_EUp5G9fUU2izHgG2xWcbDZ8O7JWQlPxuJRyxVUPaogBTM91lTZU2I7_pnmvHcX50Ue7G6Dul9D9eQXXurIuClJ-ON3rvSdshv6x45wJwIwL7U3mXYvGJE0ptaRdUX0WGKe8Gm9N9I6sTIsQN94nZ5EBvaKs1G8xAP6NS6tKzLeNVvMVtwAGNQit9wqKtPRInYw-dWHY5HzUDagFd0ghf1dpHCST6LSeuUEw_uKxoqjOxKmgMYiddYDxc4NEtv-aGtxlgAHwM9BOXFF07rtQN8NPWb6TE7QzPrpAhrNA-lt0csZxZB6xHRzOQEcVY9vtkAlAOizbc2AinACXSDxHBhTv6CoDqFpdofpmjba5FPyCT1V6WldqeJ4cmn8yKyfNYSVGV9CsBfHqWZ4jMdX-uxTqY2I6zeOTiIMnptcfEbV6PLDSuRD4N3R9PBCreA4TS2bKuoKN1vtJBMRPA8L2af-JMfAQR-L_AM6lTJWKydrUqiAFDJ_oLLCaQcsBxFgcwu7WeA653GkcBYxy461mR63z2tC_hiotkCMrshPiMWgD8-zUk4qjg3d6h5ZpszVo5rVy6wSHSxjR5z2NaTfaj8dCLDj4WQfCcA=w696-h765-no)
This diagram is from my K75. The Green/White wire on the Motogadget goes to the Emergency indicator on the dash. In this case, EITHER low oil pressure OR water over-temp will cause the light to illuminate.
The later model K's didn't have the choke switch installed so this function may be missing altogether.
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RBM
I have installed/installing a temperature gauge.
So I am not really ignoring the situation, I was thinking it would allow me to monitor the temperature more closely than just a light.
Hence the reason for eliminating the light and not doubling up on the feature
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BUT
my last couple of wires to sort(hopefully)
Do i need to connect the Violet/Black wire from the original cluster....I can't see a need but want to make sure. I do not have a light for this feature.
And
Violet White for the choke light...I do not have this light either.
Happy to live without both.
Then dare I say it I am done with the electrical....although I probably should not type that...
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Sorry to revive this thread. But i feel maybe the question above may be relevant to another thread I have started. " Injectors not pulsing"
I have simply cut both of the features off above.. Violet and Black wire and Violet and white.
I can get the bike to crank brilliantly and spark is good. 12V at injectors but cannot get them to fire.
My question is has my cutting the Violet and Black wire sent a safety signal to the ECU and stopping the injectors from firing???
Have tested the fan and it works if hooked direct to 12v. But because I installed a temperature gauge I didn't need this light but maybe I do?
I hope one of the electrical guru's can point me in the right direction...
I am so close to finishing but this is driving me crazy.
Thanks anyone who may have ideas
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Hi, did you manage to get this fork swap done? I’m looking at a K100 1100LT and am interested in doing same.