Help, dies in the motorway, at 80mph, then restart. Today dies again

[frankenduck]

How can i know if the cap is ok?

It will blow before the cluster warning light comes on.

[Laitch]

i've replaced the orings with a euromotoelectrics kit.

Are these the gaskets you replaced, oliver? Photos from Euro Motoelectric.



You don't need to send your radiator anywhere. You can flush it yourself. When is the last time you flushed it and replaced the coolant?

Have you done the Hall sensor test as indicated in the trouble shooting guide?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Flushing isn't that hard, just takes some time and supplies. 

Start by getting a cooling system cleaner at the auto parts store.  Drain the coolant and put in distilled water and the cleaner.  Follow the instructions.  When the flush is done, fill with more distilled water and run it for 5 minutes and drain it. 

To clean the fins, remove the radiator and put it in a pan.  Fill the pan with white vinegar until the fins are covered.  Let it soak for a couple hours, then rinse it spraying water from the back to the front to flush all the dirt and bugs out.  If you rinse from the front it will just push everything farther into the fins.  Don't use a high pressure to rinse, it will damage the fins.  A garden hose from 2 meters away is as strong as needed.

About the distilled water.  If you have a cistern and collect rain water, that should work as well.  Just make sure there is no dirt in the water and you should be okay.

[daveson]

During the 15 minutes while the pump won't run, check for power on both sides of fuse 6 with the start button pressed (for fuel pump, second from bottom, 7.5 Amp)  If you only have power on one side, the fuse holder is dirty or loose, replace the fuse regardless. If no power on either side, the fuel injection relay might want looking at. A loose fuse might not be able to cope with the added load of the fan coming on (then the pump might work with the fan unplugged, not recommended but for a test) 

With a screw driver on an injector, and it's handle to your ear, you should hear it clicking on and off with the start button pressed. If not, the fuel injection relay wants a look.

You want to note if the temperature warning light ever comes on, and if the fan blades feel stiff to turn.

[foliver]

It will blow before the cluster warning light comes on.

txs!, got it

[foliver]

Are these the gaskets you replaced, oliver? Photos from Euro Motoelectric.



You don't need to send your radiator anywhere. You can flush it yourself. When is the last time you flushed it and replaced the coolant?

Have you done the Hall sensor test as indicated in the trouble shooting guide?

I have bought this components for the tank cap:

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/ft-gasketkit461.htm

i have flushed the tank some month ago, but just with distilled water, before using the final coolant, but i need to do it properly, as Mighty suggest

I was not able to test the Hall sensor yet, wife working, kids at home, and my job....

[foliver]

Flushing isn't that hard, just takes some time and supplies. 

Start by getting a cooling system cleaner at the auto parts store.  Drain the coolant and put in distilled water and the cleaner.  Follow the instructions.  When the flush is done, fill with more distilled water and run it for 5 minutes and drain it. 

To clean the fins, remove the radiator and put it in a pan.  Fill the pan with white vinegar until the fins are covered.  Let it soak for a couple hours, then rinse it spraying water from the back to the front to flush all the dirt and bugs out.  If you rinse from the front it will just push everything farther into the fins.  Don't use a high pressure to rinse, it will damage the fins.  A garden hose from 2 meters away is as strong as needed.

About the distilled water.  If you have a cistern and collect rain water, that should work as well.  Just make sure there is no dirt in the water and you should be okay.

I¡ll follow your procedure, thanks Mighty,  i want to cooling system ok....i didn't do it in the main dismantling cause it looks goog, my bad, just for peace of mind should be done...

[foliver]

During the 15 minutes while the pump won't run, check for power on both sides of fuse 6 with the start button pressed (for fuel pump, second from bottom, 7.5 Amp)  If you only have power on one side, the fuse holder is dirty or loose, replace the fuse regardless. If no power on either side, the fuel injection relay might want looking at. A loose fuse might not be able to cope with the added load of the fan coming on (then the pump might work with the fan unplugged, not recommended but for a test) 

With a screw driver on an injector, and it's handle to your ear, you should hear it clicking on and off with the start button pressed. If not, the fuel injection relay wants a look.

You want to note if the temperature warning light ever comes on, and if the fan blades feel stiff to turn.

Txd Daveson, good test. I'll put the multimeter on the bike, and follow it, seems symple and clear.
 
I've cleaned all the fuses, and sand them+deoxit on the main repair. I never thought about the fuse holder, i'll rear on how it looks from the back
I never look at the fuel injection relay....

The fan was dismantled and the motor was oiled, the blades are running free, and the system tested ok a month ago....

[frankenduck]

Are these the gaskets you replaced, oliver? Photos from Euro Motoelectric.

When I had issues with a radiator cap I just bought the whole radiator cap assembly - part 17111464720. ($25 from BMW last time I bought one) Despite the gaskets showing as separate parts in the parts diagram, when you buy a new cap it includes new gaskets. In my case the radiator cap kept blowing prematurely so I just bought the whole thing.

[foliver]

When I had issues with a radiator cap I just bought the whole radiator cap assembly - part 17111464720. ($25 from BMW last time I bought one) Despite the gaskets showing as separate parts in the parts diagram, when you buy a new cap it includes new gaskets. In my case the radiator cap kept blowing prematurely so I just bought the whole thing.

sorry guys, Laitch, i misanderstood, i was speaking about the fuel cap, not the radiator one.

I didn't do any maintenance to the radiator cap...

[foliver]

Hello, after a year of running, the original problem seems solved.
After lots of testings, I decided to buy a new HALL sensor.
After disconnecting the old one from the harness, I cleaned the harness connector with dioxit 5, just in case.
The crazy thing, is that the hall has the advance out of standard position
here a picture.

hall sensor.jpeg (50.38 kB . 487x576 - viewed 121 times)

So I installed the new, in the correct position.
I was amazed, how different the ride was!
the bike gains lot of power and reaction.
is crazy because I drove it for 12 years, with the engine muffled, now the bike is more alive than ever, and it has lower consumption.
All in all, it was the Hall sensor.
After that, not more hesitation during hot days, engine keeps alive.

I want to thanks all the members that helps me to understand the problem.

[Laitch]

The crazy thing, is that the hall has the advance out of standard position.

It's likely that the old sensor still functions, so now you have a spare, maybe. 

[foliver]

Hi Laitch, yes, I’ll keep the old one as a spare.
One strange thing happens in all this situation.
When I decided to replace the sensor, I realize that the sensor connection to the harness was hide under the frame. So this was the only connection that I didn’t clean with deoxit5 when I overhaul the bike…...may be cleaning it solved the problem? I don’t know.
Now as you said, I’ll keep the used sensor, and even I’ll bring it if I do a long travel….
Thanks Laitch!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

   Always a good feeling when we finally get a nagging problem fixed!