Hello from Downeast Maine!

[X5acob]

Greetings from Maine! Just picked myself up a 94 K75.  Returning bike owner from 7 years without. Picked it up for under 2k. Just needed a headlight lens and cluster. Already ebay'd and installed. Fell in love with it's sound on a test ride. When I took it for a quick ride after I registered it, I noticed vibration that I don't remember feeling on the test ride. From what I've gleaned from some searches on here, I'm hoping it's the alternator.(tho it kinda feels like it's from the right engine case). So I decided before anymore rides, I'll change oil, gear oil, and final drive oil. Inspect, clean, and grease the splines. And I ordered some monkey nuts(that's a new term to me and I love it! )to hopefully fix the rattle/clatter.  Going with mobil 1 15w50 and Lucas 80w90

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[Laitch]

Welcome, X5acob! Looks good, even has a fancy shock absorber. How's the fuel tank interior look? Have you run the last seven digits of the VIN through a VIN checker?

[X5acob]

Did the vin checker. One place said its a (K75 85)? And the other said k75ba. Pretty sure it's just a standard naked K75. No ABS. Everything looks pretty much original except the rear shock, and the cluster I got which I think is from  a k100 or k1100.  Wish I could've found a K75 cluster, don't like how they shrank the needle sweep, and just added a bunch of white lines to fill the extra space, but at least I have working gauges now.(and 60k added to my clock..lol) it does have crash bars/case savers, which I don't know if they were original, and the right side lower rubber mount broke so I'll probably remove them till I can find a new mount.

[X5acob]

Yea and the tank looks ok from what a can see past the little flapper thing. I'm probably gonna pull the cap this weekend too so I can clean the corrosion on the ring. I can hear it leaking. Here's another picture. Definitely has its share of knicks and scratches, and I might want to raise the bars to adjust seating position, but definitely fallen in love with my brick. [ Invalid Attachment ]

[Laitch]

I'm probably gonna pull the cap this weekend too so I can clean the corrosion on the ring. I can hear it leaking. . [ Invalid Attachment ]

You can hear air leaking from the cap? If you can, you'll need to determine if the vapor release tube beneath the right rear of the tank is clogged, if the one-way valve in its hose has malfunctioned, or if the hose itself is plugged. You might need to do the customary, simple vapor hose modification that these old Brick engines needed to overcome a faulty OEM California emissions setup that creates excessive tank vapor pressure.  A scotchbrite pad will be enough to clean up the cap's mounting ring.

Judging by the pullback of the handlebar, your moto looks like it has a C-style handlebar.  There are three styles of OEM handlebars on 2V Bricks. The C-style is middling in height and pullback; the RT-style gives the most upright position and the S-style gives a more forward position. Post a side profile photo at seat height so that can be determined. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I wouldn't worry about the speedometer sweep.  I have both style clusters on my bikes, and there is very little difference in the sweep angle between 10mph increments.

If the inside of the tank is clean with no black bits floating around or coating the bottom you're home free and only need to do a filter change.  While you have the filler cap off the tank you might want to take it apart and lube the mechanism.  Chris Harris has a pretty good video on YouTube on how to do it. 

Is that a Stayintune exhaust?  Nice!  These days those nicks and dings are referred to as patina.

As to the bars, your bike came from the factory with the "C" bars.  They have a smooth curve from the clamps all the way up to the grips.  "S" bars have a mitered weld at the bottom where they're clamped to the steering head.  "RT" bars have about 7" of pullback from the clamps at the steering head to the grips. 

"C" and "S" bars are pretty much interchangeable, they use the same cables and sweep the same areas on the bike.  "RT" bars are pretty much specific to RT and LT model bikes where the fairings are designed to clear them at full lock.  C & S bars won't work on the RT because they hit the fairing at full lock.  RT  bars can be used on other models but require longer cable.

[X5acob]

You might need to do the customary, simple vapor hose modification that these old Brick engines needed to overcome a faulty OEM California emissions setup that creates excessive tank vapor pressure.

how do I check if it's clogged and what the mod? Could find it on a search. 
And the mighty gryphon is right, the bars have a miter.


I'll have to find myself some c bars, I don't really like the forward position of these s bars. Also spot on about the exhaust! Needs some cleaning and a polish, but it sounds great mate.

[Laitch]

how do I check if it's clogged and what the mod?

Read this bulletin. It explains all about it.

emission modification.pdf (1885.66 kB - downloaded 240 times)

[X5acob]

So, figured I'd give you guys an update. Since the last post, I've done a few things..
Replaced the cracked vacuum caps, helped a little. Then a week later the fuel pump started screaming. Got the one for a 2.3 4cyl ford, from work. (I'm the commercial sales manager at an AutoZone..) and cleaned out the nasty stuff that was hiding under the pump. Works great. Then I noticed I had bad injector o-rings, and was going to just replace those, until I found out I could get 3 brand new injectors for 30 bucks! While getting those on Amazon, I bit the bullet and ordered a progressive 412 rear shock for $269.  Just got the injectors today and installed them. Just got back from a test ride, and it's like a brand new bike! No throttle lag, no stuttering, no exhaust pop. Still has a sputter when slowing down between 2k and idle, but hoping balancing the TBs will fix that. Wish I had access to one of those fancy mercury ones, but my friend has cheap 4 dial guage one that he used to sync the carbs on his R6. Can't wait to get the shock. Little scary leaning into turns on bumpy roads with a blown shock.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

This is a DIY balancer that is built with a couple bottles, corks and some brass and plastic tubing.  It's way more accurate than gauges.


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You set the idle air screw on the #3 throttle body at 1 1/2 turns out and then use the balancer to match the others to it.  When the level in the bottles stops changing the vacuum is the same in both throttle bodies.  It's amazingly sensitive.

No need for the fancy frame.  That was just the result of a boring winter afternoon and some scrap wood in the shop.