Post by: kurtk75s on September 28, 2020, 10:50:50 AM
A rehash of my 'new member' post: I've owned this 1991 K75S since 1995 when I picked it up at the local dealer with 2500 miles on the clock. I put the bags and tank bag on it. Also added the Fox TC in about 1996. The bike has 75000 miles on it now.
My plan is to go through it pretty completely. New SS brake lines, rotors and pads, splines lubed, probably a new drive shaft - DS splines are worn but the final drive splines looked OK last time I was in there. I've already done some stuff like new spark plugs and air filter. I plan on replacing coolant and fuel lines. Rear master cylinder is leaking. Small drip from tranny. And a bunch of things need to be improved: rattles, non-solid fairing mounting, saddlebag mounts are worn, leans over too far on side stand, add conspicuity lights like Skene, etc.
I'm not a mechanic by any means but I've done a bunch of stuff on bikes - like clutch spline lubes, valve check/adjustment, fork seals, suspension setup and regular maintenance stuff. We don't have a dealer close to central New York so I've had to learn to be self sufficient since we own 5 BMWs.
Pictures below are the bike ready for a cross country trip starting in San Diego in 2017, at about 70000 miles. Then a couple of the bike as it sits this morning. I staged the wheels and some of the stuff I'm painting. The black parts are getting shot with appliance enamel. I like how the forks came out. The exhaust shield is glossy but better than rust. I'm not happy with the wheels - but they are just going to get covered with brake dust anyway.
Oh, I want to do something with the seat. I have always loved that BMW by Corbin saddle. I've been using RTV to keep it together for about 10 years now. I know others hate that seat but it works for me.
Post by: Laitch on September 28, 2020, 10:59:00 AM
Are you indicating that the side stand bushing is worn to an extent that the moto is leaning farther than it should, or that the angle of lean is disconcerting?
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 28, 2020, 01:06:45 PM
Given your resume above- you are now a mechanic. To own a Brick it’s virtually a prerequisite 44271
At first glance my recommendation is you review/ study some of the sticky Rebuild thread posts in the classic motobrick forum. If you haven’t already. One by mlytle was compressive.
EG from where I sit- the stuff you reference is fine too,but the rubber bits , case breather, fuel pumps damper, master cylinder seals And the lot ..are generally the top line troubleshooting items.... though from the way you phrased it the splines should be a known not an “ok last time I looked”
I drive a 94 abs same color and mileage you lucky dog.. Call/email if I can help/empathize.🙃
Post by: kurtk75s on September 28, 2020, 03:17:47 PM
I think both. This bike has always had a lot of lean while on the side stand. The bushing is definitely worn - or the ears have widened. I've never done any maintenance to the side stand. Also, my side stand/clutch lever safety mechanism has been disconnected for a lot of years. Probably 10 or so. The nut that connects the side stand rod to the clutch lever disappeared and I never replaced it.
Are you a member of the MOV? My wife and I have been since about 2016 and we've been to the Goshen rally a number of times.
Rcgreaves:
There are a lot of things I left out of my original post. I rebuilt the front MC about 11 years ago and it has been inside under cover all the time except for 2 weeks each year since then. The K75 was kept in San Diego from 2010 to 2017. That is why I qualified 'last time I looked'. About 5000 miles ago I was going to replace the driveshaft with one off of my buddies bike - he carried it in his luggage out to Cali for me. Turns out my existing driveshaft splines were in a little better shape than his so I just lubed it up and rode it back to NY. That is the last time I looked. DS gets lubed every tire change. My current plan is to get the front end of the bike back together before I start pulling the back end off. A 'bike full' of parts takes up a lot more room than an assembled bike!
Front wheel bearings have been replaced. Stuff in the tank has been replaced. Some fuel line has been replaced. Since I have it mostly apart, I will replace it all again. The cooling fan was replaced at the Salem, Oregon MOA rally.
I'm going to read through a bunch of the rebuild threads like you suggested and will create a spreadsheet of stuff I need to do. I have a list going - but that is just stuff I know needs to be done: not preemptive maintenance based on the collective knowledge.
Thanks for the comments!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 28, 2020, 03:40:59 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on September 28, 2020, 06:56:02 PM
I removed the battery, muffler, and bag mounts. Everyone likes pics so I'll attach a few. The first is an under seat shot. The battery tray isn't too much of a mess considering the lack of attention this bike receives. I wish the rest of the paint was as nice as the red under the seat!
The second shot shows the condition of the muffler. Not too bad. I'll polish it up and try to get the baked on asphalt off. On the stand there is a small amount of brownish 'flakes'. That is remnants of an encounter with a massive herd of sheep on the road near Brian's Head, Utah. There were so many sheep that we stopped on the double yellow, turned off the engines, and just let the sheep flow around us like a river. They just kept coming for minutes! At the hotel that evening, we were appalled by the amount of dung our bikes had gathered up. That was in 2013. I'm still finding crap!
Post by: kurtk75s on September 28, 2020, 07:04:24 PM
Here is an example of something I would like to reuse: the bag mounts. They are still sturdy but the points where they contact the bags have become really worn and this is probably what is causing my bags to jiggle around while riding.
I'm sure you folks have run across this - what have you done to make things 'tight' again? My first guess was going to be to use an epoxy like JBWeld.
Post by: Chaos on September 28, 2020, 07:19:52 PM
I have always loved that BMW by Corbin saddle.
I really like Corbin seats, but they don't seem to hold up all that well. A local car upholstery shop may be able to recover it. Not sure if Corbin does it anymore.
Post by: Laitch on September 28, 2020, 07:30:42 PM
. . . what have you done to make things 'tight' again? My first guess was going to be to use an epoxy like JBWeld.All sorts of ideas have been deployed.
- Gluing a foam or thin rubber strip to the case near the latch to exert pressure on the rack when the latch closes and pulls the case to the rack.
- Restoring the thickness of latch hook's polymer padding or replacing it with some other material, maybe even JBWeld.
- Using a wooden block and metal stirrup device to keep the latch from opening—like this one (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12675.msg115627.html#msg115627).
- Making a more streamlined latch block assembly—like this here (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13131.msg116856.html#msg116856).
- and others that a search of the site might reveal.
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 28, 2020, 10:40:37 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on September 29, 2020, 07:07:58 PM
Ordered a bunch of parts from Beemer Boneyard and Spiegler. SS lines, rotors, pads, fuel line, monkey nutz, clutch cable, fuel pump rubber damper kit.
Also put some elbow grease into the muffler. Found a combination that worked pretty well to remove baked on tar and corrosion at the welds: clay bar with 'Evaporust' as a lubricant! Worked surprisingly well. I noticed some dings in the exhaust that just aren't going to get buffed out but I'll try to get it as good as I can.
I also started prepping the painted parts. More clay bar and rubbing compound to try to get the old paint to shine as good as it can. I've been reading forum posts to get some tips on how to address some of these cosmetic things. My belly pan is really worn - thinking of getting a rattle can match and try to refresh the best I can. I suck at painting. Maybe my wife will give it a shot.
Tomorrow I'm going to spruce up some of the black plastic parts. I use a mixture of 50/50 boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (paint thinner). Rub it on then buff it out. Got that idea from a Jeep forum and used it to keep some VWs and a Honda Element looking good. Gets rid of that chalky look that plastics get with age. On a car that sits outside, I have to redo every year or two but it is a fast procedure. Easier than waxing - and that Element had a lot of plastic. Works great on motorcycles. The unpainted cases of the K's and Oilheads look like new after an application.
When the rain stops, I'll dive into the drive shaft. Spline pictures are always popular.
Post by: Martin on September 30, 2020, 12:36:44 AM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7914.msg57755.html#msg57755 I used to cover the lower parts of my belly pan with non slip boat deck tape but this required changing every so often, which was a bit tedious. I now spray the lower parts with truck bed liner which can be touched up if and when needed.
Regards Martin.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 10:31:58 AM
I'm also pondering my approach for the bag mounts. I may do many of the options: a little JBWeld, a rubber pad near the latch AND the block of wood. Belt and suspenders. Don't want to lose my skivvies - there may not be a Walmart handy.
Today I am trying to recreate my maintenance records for the K75S. 25 years is a long time - and stuff gets misplaced. I had a 3 ring binder going for years. Then I switched to electronic. But I can't find the files. Since the K75 became the 2nd, then 3rd, and now 4th bike, it didn't get the love and attention it deserves. But I did do yearly fluid changes while it was in California (including brakes and tranny/FD). Coolant only once in 10 years, though. Tires were replaced every other year. DS splines lubed with every tire change. Had to replace the battery once. It lasted 2 years and died suddenly while on the road in 2017. The bike was kept on a Battery Tender Jr. 100% of the time. I need to add some pics - so the one below is of me 'measuring' the battery prior to running into the village of Talahina, OK to try to find a battery. Failure just happened to be at the Oklahoma BMW riders campout. I coasted to this spot from the park office in the background. Within 20 minutes I had a battery charger, a Microstart, and more moral support than I could handle! The next morning I found a battery at the first place I went into. Lucky!
In the records that I dug up, I found that the last time I check the valve clearance was at 51K miles. It was perfect at that time so I didn't get to use the nifty valve spring compression tool my buddy let me borrow. Maybe this time...
The reason I'm looking for the history is that the 'easy' fuel line and the crank case breather tube look like they are in REALLY good shape and I'm having this feeling of deja vu - I'm pretty sure I replaced them within the last 12 years. I'm also second guessing the coolant hoses - based on the anecdotal evidence here and the general appearance (great) of my lines, that is an expensive bit of preventive maintenance - that money could go toward something else.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 10:45:29 AM
The background is Big Bend NP, again in 2017. Absolutely stunning.
A few more things are coming back to me. I rebuilt both front calipers and the master cylinder about 12 years ago. I sure wish I could find the receipts! I am normally an organized person - but that period of my life was a bit intense.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 30, 2020, 11:06:41 AM
Regarding seat height, I'm always surprised at how often I am looking down at the driver of an SUV when I pass them on my RT.
Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2020, 11:13:08 AM
This illustrates the side stand lean that I will address.If the side stand bushing isn't sloppy, consider leaving well enough alone. Have you ever tried to tip over the moto from the side stand position? That's not going to happen. I like it that way. Gryphon's observation is accurate, too. Furthermore, the garden variety peabrain kid who might want to play with your moto when it's parked will be unlikely to have both the ambition and the coordination to lift it or push it over. I usually park the moto on the center stand as further insurance that if Junior is able to mount it, pull in the clutch and inadvertently raise the center stand when playing vroom-vroom while waiting for mommy to return with the groceries, the moto won't fall over when he dismounts.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 11:29:23 AM
Laitch - There IS quite a bit of play in the side stand. I never even checked that until you mentioned it.
I was also wondering if the Fox TC has also raised the bike/side stand up a little contributing to the lean.
My issue isn't with it falling over - it is with trying to get it upright when fully loaded. I was 28 when I bought the bike. I'm not 28 any more :(.
Now I almost always put the bike on the center stand when parked. I used to be able to throw a leg over that bag on the back. Jan Claude Van Damme style. Now, with the bike on the center stand, I step on the right peg and then 'step through' over the front part of the seat. The adaptations we make.
The seal line dry bag has been a part of my luggage for as long as I can remember riding. It fits on every bike I have, is waterproof and cost almost nothing. I used to pack my camping gear in it - but over the years that gear got more expensive and harder to replace. So now I mostly pack clothes, shoes and such. That way, if it walks (never has) I'm not out too much cash and the stuff is pretty easily replaced. The only thing I can't put in a sidebag is the tent. But I can get another one of those fairly quickly in a pinch. I also take that bag into a hotel with me - so now I can leave the camping gear in a bag on the bike.
The orange lashing straps are from Harbor Freight. I used to use ones with plastic buckles but forgot to bring them on one trip. Turns out the HF ones work well, are cheap and easily replaced. Must be careful with metal cam buckle, though.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 11:37:38 AM
Turns out that I replaced the shock in 2001! At a ridiculous price of $575 from Cal BMW. I thought I had done that 5 years earlier. Heck, that thing isn't even 20 years old!
In early 2000 I added heated grips. I thought I did that when I bought the bike. Grips were $152. At that same time I replaced the roundels and also the driveshaft. Remember when driveshafts cost $173.83? I'm pretty sure I swallowed hard before coughing that up.
Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2020, 12:02:39 PM
My issue isn't with it falling over - it is with trying to get it upright when fully loaded. I was 28 when I bought the bike. I'm not 28 any more :(.It sure can be an unwieldy beast when loaded and being maneuvered after a few hundred miles of riding. I just keep the wheels aligned and shove it upright using my right thigh against it and some upper body strength but it would be nice to be 57 again or even 67. :laughing4-giggles: I'd miss the senior discounts though.
Post by: mw074 on September 30, 2020, 12:24:53 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 30, 2020, 01:41:33 PM
Example: Tank Badges have gone from a bit over $14 in 2014 to $30.73 today. And, there will be another increase in a few months($33?). For a while, they were raising prices by as much as 8% twice a year. All while inflation was running at around 2%.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 05:02:29 PM
The stuff I ordered yesterday from Beemer Boneyard arrived today! Wow. I have always received great service from them.
Here is a pic. The EBC rotors look a little different - especially the pins on the 'abs ring' side.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 05:07:31 PM
The first picture is the 'before' of the rear fender I took off yesterday.
The second is the 'after. I sure hope it is obvious. There are still scratches and dings but, other than the wear, it makes the plastic look pretty good. I will give it another buffing tomorrow after it dries a bit.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 05:13:23 PM
Post by: Martin on September 30, 2020, 06:05:53 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2020, 06:25:18 PM
Probably not as much of a problem with LH drive roadsIt depends upon whether you're wearing your sword. Regardless, here are some fun facts (https://www.worldstandards.eu/cars/driving-on-the-left/).
Post by: mw074 on September 30, 2020, 08:20:08 PM
I use a mixture of 50/50 boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (paint thinner).
Dahm, just use Armor All.
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 08:59:52 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 09:18:19 PM
Post by: Martin on September 30, 2020, 09:21:20 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2020, 10:17:30 PM
I'm sure you know what you are looking at.Toilet tank mechanisms have certainly improved over the years!
Post by: kurtk75s on September 30, 2020, 10:59:23 PM
I'm going to stop posting detailing pictures. If I have any interesting things pop up when I dig into the mechanical stuff, I'll add them to the thread.
Post by: Martin on October 01, 2020, 01:28:59 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 01, 2020, 02:37:52 PM
Lately I've only been mounting sport bike sized radials (120 F/ 180 R) on a few of our other bikes. Since the K75 was in California, I would take the wheels in to a shop and have tires put on since I didn't have the tools out there. I forgot how easy it is to mount tires on the K75 rims. My set up is basic - I just use a milk crate, some Quick Clamps and a lot of RuGLYDE. My rim protectors are just cut out of a jug of some sort. I've been using the same ones for years. I have a few tire irons but for this install, I only need one. It is a long one but I didn't need the leverage - it has a bend in it, which makes sliding tire over it super easy. You can kind of see that in the picture. There is no grunting or swearing with this method. The beads popped really easy. Maybe because the tires had been installed before. Didn't even remove the cores.
For tires, I put on the Shinko 712s that were on the wheels previously. They have 2 weeks/~4k miles of use. There is still plenty of meat left. They were one of the few tires I could get delivered to the shop within 10 days when I ordered them in 2017. I was skeptical because of the low price but I was pleasantly surprised with the performance. I didn't do a lot of mountain riding but I did some while in Az/NM/Big Bend/Talamina to Ak and then down to the Natches trace up through Tn, Wv, PA, etc. Enough varied roads and rain that I was able to get an idea of what they are capable of. I liked them enough that I may get them again if they stay consistent over the next 2k or so miles.
The rear only required 14g of weight to static balance. I haven't done the front yet. Need to install the new rotors first. Got the ABS ring off the old one and now I have to attach it to the new, which is cooling down right now.
Brake lines should arrive tomorrow so the front end should be going back together very soon.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 01, 2020, 03:02:23 PM
712's are nice tires. I've run a couple sets so far and can't find anything wrong with them except that the front with that center groove kinda likes wobbling a little on rain grooves. Have a new set on my K100RS. I've found that Shinkos don't need a lot of weight to balance.
Just wondering, do you check the balance of the wheel before you put the tire on it? I've recently discovered that on my BMW wheels the heavy spot isn't at the valve stem. Sometimes it can be as much as a quarter of the way around the wheel from the valve. Putting the dot on that heavy spot makes balancing a little easier.
Post by: alabrew on October 01, 2020, 04:03:07 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on October 01, 2020, 04:16:43 PM
I can never remember if the ‘dot’ is the light spot or the heavy spot. Always have to look that up.
Do you remember the Dunlop K491s? I loved those Harley tires. Really long wear and consistent feel. I was sad when they stopped making them. Many of the replacements ended up with weird cupping on the front so I would replace them earlier than the tread suggested. No problem with the Shinkos so far. All of our other BMWs wear Michelin Pilot Roads. 4GT now and the 3s before. So I am willing to pay for good tires. It is nice to not have to, though.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 01, 2020, 04:24:47 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on October 01, 2020, 04:29:21 PM
Post by: alabrew on October 02, 2020, 03:53:02 PM
Yes, Dunlop K491 tires were the tire back in the day for me too.
I bought my balancer in the early 2000's from a GW site for about $100, iirc.
I bought two tires, a HF tire changing stand with motorcycle adapter, and the balancer for what it was going to cost to have two tires put on at the dealer.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 03, 2020, 01:07:09 AM
I put the dot at the (metal) valve.
Next time find the actual heavy spot on the wheel. You might be surprised at where it is.
The old steel wheels with spokes were built from a metal extrusion that had pretty consistent density and weight. Alloy wheels are molded, and core shift in the mold as well as pressure drop across the mold cavity can make for uneven density in the finished part.
Since I started matching the light part of the tire to the real heavy spot in the wheel balancing goes a lot faster for me. Definitely worth the extra 5-6 minutes that the extra step takes. If you mark it with a discrete dot of paint, you'll only have to find it once.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 03, 2020, 08:48:48 AM
Also got the Spiegler lines mounted on the front. This weekend I should have the front end back together. I think I'll take a little breather before starting in on the back end.
Before getting the Metzeler balancer, I used a method that my father-in-law showed me: he would get the axel level between two jack stands and then use that setup to balance the wheel. That worked great for me - until I got a bike with a single sided swingarm. My first tire change on the k75 resulted in a balanced front wheel and unbalanced rear wheel. Then I started looking for a solution.
Post by: Laitch on October 03, 2020, 10:23:11 AM
That worked great for me - until I got a bike with a single sided swingarm. My first tire change on the k75 resulted in a balanced front wheel and unbalanced rear wheel. Then I started looking for a solution.What was your solution?
Post by: Chaos on October 03, 2020, 02:29:52 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on October 04, 2020, 12:02:45 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on October 04, 2020, 12:10:05 PM
The internet is always right: if you look long enough. The problem is that you can also always find the wrong answer if you look long enough.
I wish I had the time to read the whole internet. Maybe it would have prevented gear oil from exiting my clutch pushrod boot when I released the clutch arm while changing the cable.
Experience is the teacher that gives the test first, then the lesson.
Post by: Laitch on October 04, 2020, 10:38:01 PM
I wish I had the time to read the whole internet. Maybe it would have prevented gear oil from exiting my clutch pushrod boot when I released the clutch arm while changing the cable.Probably not. Only an unripped, securely fastened boot that wasn't hyper-extended would have prevented that. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: kurtk75s on October 05, 2020, 10:14:26 PM
The splines on both the drive shaft and the pinion shaft are toast. I will take some pictures tomorrow when there is more light. My phone doesn't do well with close ups in low light.
I knew that this was going to be the case - which is why the bike has been sitting on a lift for 3 years. If I had taken the final drive off first, I may have just parted the bike out. The bike isn't worth much, especially with expensive repairs needed. But now I'm 'in for a penny, in for a pound'.
I'm hoping that there are no surprises when I remove the gear box.
Since I had my hands on the rear master cylinder, I took the piston out. I'm going to try to clean it up before getting a new one. The seals look pretty clean and no rips. I'll try to smooth out the cylinder bore with some really fine sandpaper and a round drift. I've had that work OK on other old bikes. What's the worst that can happen?
Post by: Laitch on October 05, 2020, 11:09:53 PM
I'll try to smooth out the cylinder bore with some really fine sandpaper and a round drift.I used a piece of Scotchbrite red pad to dress my front master cylinder's bore—rolled up until it fit snugly. No grit residue.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 05, 2020, 11:31:27 PM
There's a thread around here that discusses how to do it.
Post by: Laitch on October 06, 2020, 02:16:09 AM
Post by: kurtk75s on October 07, 2020, 09:53:14 PM
There was no evidence of leakage from either the main seal/ o-ring or from the trans input shaft seal. I guess the drips that I saw migrated from somewhere else. Most likely from the oil change that I did last year. Bike hasn't been run since.
Also pulled the alternator to replace the monkey nutz. The old ones were fine but this is easy preventive maintenance.
This bike is easy to work on but pulling the transmission does create a lot of clutter.
Here is the messy workspace, the transmission splines and the clutch splines. These are the best pics I could get with my phone.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 07, 2020, 09:56:30 PM
Edit: These photos are after a little clean up. When opened up, the splines were rusty and dry and there was a BUNCH of moly lube around the pinion shaft seal. WTF. Since the last lube (~7k miles ago), I may have ridden in the rain for a day or two. Most of my riding was in the desert. What a crappy design for an, otherwise, stellar bike.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 07, 2020, 10:26:33 PM
I was just going to get some new ones from BMW but I happened to be in our local 'Runnings' store looking for other hardware for the bike (stainless bolts for the bag mounts) and saw that they had a rubber grommet tray. They had ones that looked like they would fit the K bike, so I bought two ofthem at 3.29 each. Turns out they are a little long: the bottom lip obscures the groove for the retaining circlip. So I cut that part off. Now the grommets stay on the tank when you pull it but there is still a rubber 'sleeve' going through the hole. When mounted with the circlips, it seems pretty solid and gives a nice cushion.
Here is the bottom of the tank with the grommets installed. Yes, that is a JBWeld fix for THE seam leak under the fuel pump. Has lasted for 11 years. I'll do something more permanent when it starts leaking again.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 08, 2020, 07:59:18 PM
When I closely inspected the old nutz, I could see cracks forming on the back side and rubber was definitely being shed into the alternator cup, based on the amount of cleaning I had to do. So it is a good thing that I replaced them. First glance told me they were OK. This is definitely one of those things to do while you have the transmission out - if they haven't been replaced before.
Here is a picture, I think you can see the cracking, especially on the right one.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 08, 2020, 08:12:41 PM
When I installed the stainless lines on the front, I attempted to bleed the brakes afterward. I use a vacuum bleeder because it makes the job SO easy - especially after draining the system. So I went to the spot in the cabinet that I usually keep the bleeder and grabbed it - and it didn't work. Complete crap. I noticed it was a Harbor Freight jobby. I disassembled it and saw that the internal pressure diaphragm (the thing that keeps the pressure building with each pump) had become brittle and had broken - the pump worked but it wouldn't maintain pressure.
So I added a task to the list to get a new Mityvac (I had the original for years and it worked great until the plastic handle broke - after 20 years or so!). And the brakes sat un-bled.
Today I went to put away my 'transmission installation guide pins' (two long bolts with thread only on the end) and opened the wrong drawer in the cabinet. Oops: but what is this, a brand new Mityvac. I do not remember buying it. I must have had problems with the Harbor Freight one before and got mad and purchased this. Why didn't I throw out the HF item?
I love this thing. Front brakes bled in about 10 minutes.
Post by: kurtk75s on October 08, 2020, 08:26:12 PM
Things are going to slow down a little now, I have to wait for some parts and do some cosmetic repairs before slapping things back together. The worst is the right foot peg assembly that had been marinating in paint stripper (brake fluid). I'm going to take everything off and sand blast the back side. Damage shown in the second attachment.
Post by: Laitch on October 09, 2020, 12:45:47 AM
I got the transmission back in and reinstalled the clutch cable. I adjusted the cable to what I THINK are the right specs. That is 75mm (+/- 1mm) of bare cable and 5mm of play at the lever. The new cable required the adjuster at the bar to be screwed out a lot (like a worn cable) and to get 5mm of play, the clutch rod adjustment bolt is also quite far out (see picture below). . . .but is it possible that the clutch pushrod isn't properly seated?It's possible that the rod is hanging up on the output shaft bushing, but it isn't likely considering the depth of your maintenance experience with this moto.
This is the way I perform an initial clutch setting. Your description doesn't seem to square with it. In the second panel, adjustment A is achieved using the clutch hand lever adjusting screw and its knurled locknut, not at the clutch actuating arm.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719013525.png)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-110219175800.png)
Post by: kurtk75s on October 09, 2020, 08:58:08 AM
Post by: mw074 on October 10, 2020, 10:45:11 AM
I love this thing. Front brakes bled in about 10 minutes.
Let the brakes gravity bleed before using the Mityvac. Speeds up the process even more.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 10, 2020, 02:49:31 PM
Post by: alabrew on October 10, 2020, 05:17:45 PM
Post by: kurtk75s on July 22, 2021, 09:53:38 PM
I took the leap and purchased a good used final drive and a new drive shaft. Expensive but I now have confidence in the bike - and I will be diligent with spline lubes in the future.
Not much original 'rubber' is left: the intake manifolds, I guess. They looked pretty good. I wouldn't hesitate to jump on this and ride across the country.
So now that the internals are pretty well sorted, now I can focus on the cosmetics and lighting.
K75S_LeftSide.jpeg (111.78 kB . 767x576 - viewed 420 times) K75S_RightSide.jpeg (97.19 kB . 768x532 - viewed 420 times)Post by: Chaos on July 22, 2021, 11:36:11 PM