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Wow, even the toolkit is complete. What a great find.
Even found the original tire patch kit; I doubt it's still good, lol ... also have full service history as it's only had 3 oil changes in its like and the service records are with the ownsers manual
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I've had a couple productive days in the garage despite the frigid temperatures. 

Got the front wheel rebalanced and installed.  Got the "new" front fairing mount installed and found it was tweaked a tiny bit when I eyeballed it.  Did a little straightening on it but not sure if it's right yet.

Handlebars are mounted and the wiring has been connected and tested.  So far, everything works after making a few minor adjustments to things like the rear brake and "choke" switches and cleaning the turn signal cancel switch.  Only things left on the frame wiring are to connect the wire for the fan override and the oil level check light on the side of the oil pan.  The sub-freezing temperatures in the garage made handling the wiring harness and those big covers over the combination switch connectors a pain in the ass.  Had to do a lot of heating with a hair dryer on high to get everything stuffed into where it needs to be.  Sure was nice not to have the ABS wiring to contend with!

The front wheel was out of balance but adding a quarter oz. weight got it right.

Everything has been going well so far with the exception of the handlebars I got on eBay.  First off, they were not set up for heated grips.  I drilled them out and modified the ends to accept the heating elements, but there was some sort of obstruction that prevented feeding the wire on the throttle side.  After spending over four hours trying, I gave up and decided I didn't need heated grips on this bike that badly.

Then when I put them on the bike I discovered that they were not really K100RS bars as they were quite a bit wider than the correct bars.  They also have a slightly different bend that doesn't line up correctly with the dash pad.  Not a big deal I thought, I'll just shorten them, but the bend doesn't allow the perches to be slid down the bar all the way to the ends of the pad.  Looks like I will have to live with a 3/8" gap between the perches and the pad.  I have the left end done, will have to do the throttle end this weekend.

Next up is to put the tank on and see if I can start the engine.  I'll also have to tear down the Paralever to see what and why the drive shaft is rubbing the inside of the swingarm when the shock is at the full length of it's travel.  The forecast is for balmy 40F temperatures for the next 4-5 days.  I just hope it isn't too damp to cause a lot of condensation.  It sucks having to work when everything you touch is wet.

Not much left to do on the frame/engine if it starts up.  I should be done in the garage on this bike in about a week.  Then it will be finishing up the paint prep on the bodywork and waiting until spring to shoot the paint.  Then I can move on to the annual maintenance on Cheetos and Ilsa.  Cheetos also needs a little body work from when a driver knocked it over last October.  I will also be building a paint booth.
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Project Classic Motobricks / Re: '87 K75 Revival....maybe.
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on Today at 08:29:31 AM »
You'll be able to use radials on the back with a wider rim.
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Project Classic Motobricks / Re: '87 K75 Revival....maybe.
« Last post by TaosBrick on Today at 01:05:06 AM »
No reason not to, and you'll enjoy the improved ride as well.
Second that!
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Thermostat Equivalent for K75
« Last post by F14CRAZY on January 19, 2018, 09:48:04 PM »
Just go to your local auto parts store and ask for a Stant Superstat # 45758
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Project Classic Motobricks / Re: '87 K75 Revival....maybe.
« Last post by rbm on January 19, 2018, 09:15:36 PM »
No reason not to, and you'll enjoy the improved ride as well.
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Project Classic Motobricks / '87 K75 Revival....maybe.
« Last post by gofargogo on January 19, 2018, 03:10:19 PM »
Did another short Test ride around the neighborhood to see if maybe my clutch cable was stretched and not letting it fully engage and disengage the clutch, thus not allowing a good solid shift into 2nd.

The ride proved that the problem remains. So, since my final drive, my driveshaft and my tranny need to replaced, is there any reason (besides keeping it stock) to NOT replace everything with k1100 paralever parts?
Besides having to buy the paralever arm, and new shock, it seems like itís roughly the same cost for eBay parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Filmcamera on January 19, 2018, 12:20:36 PM »
Yes it could but the less lean angle I have the less the brakes being slightly on matters.

I will probably end up biting the bullet and ordering new pistons - sigh
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Martin on January 19, 2018, 12:14:22 PM »
You will not be doing your rotors any favours, they will wear more and overheat. You could also overheat your brake fluid resulting in reduced or no braking in a critical time. :musicboohoo: :falldown:
will probably not kill me.
It could.
Regards Martin.
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I am looking for the electrical part of the K-bike ignition switch. I donít need a key or the key mechanism - just the white electrical switch and attached harness preferably with plug too.


The bike is a 92 K75RT.


This would have worked:
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/512514554nk.html


Item# BB51251455412NK





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