bike wont start! fixed electrics, have spark and gas still won't go

[Oliver]

I replaced the brake lines added clip ons and a new headlight removed my abs and all that today. its all bike together and now the bike wont run. it was turning on and I have spark I smell gas the plugs get wet but it wont run. after trying to tart it for a while I think the battery got low or something because when I move the kill switch in the on position nothing lights up now. the normal red lights dont light up its as if it doesnt even go into the start position and the start button doesnt do anything. which is weird because I dont think a dead battery would cause that. I should still hear a click and the tach lights should come on. so I guess there is two problems now, the bike wont start but it turns over and now it wont even go into the on position. Need help

[Scott_]

I'd go back "in" and look for any plugs not connected. Sounds like you left something disconnected.
Check around the headstock area, sometimes the power lead to the ign switch can break.

[Chaos]

Cranking with a low battery can weld the starter relay shut.  If you jump it and it sparks and turns with the key off that's you problem. It has drained the last electron out of your battery.  Often you can free up the relay by tapping it. Your nostart issue before could have been simple as wet plugs, K75's are notorious for fouling.

[Oliver]

I changed the plugs after it wouldnt start, had new spares on hand. It wasnt continually starting so I dont think I welded any connections. It may be something un plugged but how could that cause the engine not to start? I have spark gas and the air filter and everything is fine I believe. It was running great before I took the tank off and did all this stuff two days ago

Battery is fine checked with multimeter

[TimTyler]

What steps did you take in removing the ABS?

Did you remove the hard brake lines that run under the tank? Did you disconnect the blue ABS connectors under the tank? Did you remove the ABS relay in the relay box? Did you disconnect the ABS brain in the tail cowling? You shouldn't have a problem if you did those things.

Have a look at this http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm

[Oliver]

I disconnected computer, and pumps. relay is still there as well as sensor plugs. How would that effect ignition?

[TimTyler]

I disconnected computer, and pumps. relay is still there as well as sensor plugs. How would that effect ignition?

I don't think it will affect your ignition problem but it minimizes clutter under the tank.

Removing the ABS relay eliminates the ABS error light constantly illuminating on the dash.

[Froader4life]

If you swapped the fuel lines on the tank then the check valve wouldn't allow much fuel to get by. You could pull off the fuel line going to the rail to see if there really is fuel flowing.

[Oliver]

My ignition switch is fine I checked for continuity. the green and black wire coming from my rear brake is toasted and there is noticeable crap electric work done in the fuse box dealing with that wire. I guess whatever dumb ass police mechanic fixed theis didnt dot their t's or cross there i's.
the top fuse the one for schlub licht and instrument (something) pops.
 so if my ignition switch is fine but its blowing fuses and not allowing power to the ignition switch then idk what it is and I need help.

[Oliver]

the new tail light and rear turn signals are led, would that have anything to do with it? They were blinking fine but have resistors that need to be put on now that the front is getting changed too.

[Grim]

The air box messed with?  The fuel pump is turned on by the AFM in the air box. No air moving through the AFM pump will not turn on. You can meter it or you can prop it open 1/8-1/4 inch to check for pump function.

And has it got a side stand switch? 

[Opus]

If you are blowing top fuse then you have a short or over amp on the fuse circuit.
You can use a Volt/Ohm meter to check the amps by removing the blown fuse and plugging the amp meter into the fuse slot.
Set meter to check amps and turn on the key switch. you will see the amps that it is pulling.
If I remember right it should not be over 7.5 amps (on a 88 K100LT).

" DO NOT LEAVE THE POWER ON TOO LONG AS IT CAN COOK YOUR WIRES OR OTHER ELECTRONICS PLUGGED INTO THAT CIRCUIT! "

If the bike was starting before you changed out parts, then I would recheck all the power connections 1st.

Good Luck!

[Scott_]

And has it got a side stand switch?

The 75's don't have those. Only the 89-92 K1's, and 90-92 K100RS's and all 1100's have them.

[Oliver]

If the plugs are wet and your saying the jets wont work if there is no air then I dont think it has to do with the air box. I did mess with it a little before all this bullshit started just trying to see my air filter but realized it was probably relatively clean and I wasnt up for the task. I didnt unplug anything just moved the top half a few inches out and then put it back on.

 I think I have two problems but to fix the second of the bike not starting I have to fix the first which is getting the start button and switch to work.

Like I said fuze 1 is blowing, these wiring daigrams are hieroglyphics to me in some ways but im going to keep looking through them more.

 Anyone know what the green and black wire from the rear brake switch could effect. like I said its sizzled. I will try the fuse multimeter trick but im a little fearful of that seeing as I dont want to fry any other wires. would removing hazard light switch and heated grip switch cause this?


I will check my ignition switch but it is fine and lights headlight and tail light respectively to parking turn and full ignition on turn. I will also try bypassing the sidestand switch if I have one but I think the side stand switch would just not let me start the bike but it would still let me get the all systems go lights come up (i.e. neutral light, oil pressure and battery red lights and the gear indicator showing 0) when I flip kill switch to on



Any ideas or wisdom on electrics are welcome please

[Oliver]

okay do I fixed the electrical problem. now I can press the start button and it turns over. I can hear fuel pump I checked the spark and its fine put new plugs on d7ea,  it's starting battery is charged but it won't start. what should I do next

[TimTyler]

How did you fix the electrical problem?

[Oliver]

pulled all connections, sprayed with contact cleaner replaced fuses and it was fixed. Also removed and taped up scorched wire.

[Oliver]

FIXED

[TimTyler]

See, Oliver, the thing about forums like this one, is that you'e supposed to tell people how you fixed it so others in the future might save some time and grief.  :dunno

[TaosBrick]

What Tim said x 3

[Oliver]

I will sir. I was at work so i just wanted people to know that it was but i didnt have time for an explanation, just got home now and man I am happy. One of the pins on the fuel pump connector was a a bit pushed in. Also one of my new spark plugs was bad. I checked all of them today after being so frustrated and turned out one barely sparked. I did notice as well that my ecu had welded to the fork and a cable i pulled was very near so I think it was jumping and shorting it out. So new plug, tie off the cables and tape, THEN off she goes.

THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING ALL OF YOU got new pics of the bike on my post in a few minutes

[motodude]

See, Oliver, the thing about forums like this one, is that you'e supposed to tell people how you fixed it so others in the future might save some time and grief.  :dunno

"Yes Dad."

I recently had that same conversation with my 16 y/o.  He's building a 3D printer and had some issues where he posted to their forum. 

Tom