Author Topic: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard converted to K75RS  (Read 13909 times)

Offline GoatLord

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The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard converted to K75RS
« on: August 29, 2014, 12:53:38 AM »
Hi fellow Bricksters.

I've been bikeless for a couple years, first time since I was 19. Up till recently I'd always had two wheels of some sort, used to do a semi-annual tour or two and just got away from it somehow. Life got in the way I suppose.

In any case, I'd been feeling the itch to drive something that leaned the proper way in the corners and wanted a project (wrenching on bikes is a fantastic way to pass an evening) so I threw an ad up on CL for a barn bike project. I wasn't expecting much, and mostly didn't get much aside from the occasional absurd offer. The two best to date were an '82 Honda Sabre V45 (the ugly full fairing version) that looked like it had been on the losing side of a zombie war ($1500 asking price  :yow) and an '01 Bandit 1200 with a rusty chain for full market value ($2100) - not really a project or a bargain.

I'd forgotten about the ad when I got an email out of the blue asking if I'd be interested in a 91 K75. I'd always wanted a BMW, but was put off by the horror stories of costly failures (*cough* final drive *cough*), which must be true 'cause I read about them on teh interwebs. A little research indicated that the K75 did not fit the unreliable expensive "German Harley" cliche, and I was intrigued. (To be fair, I suspect that a substantial portion of the issues with modern BMWs are overreported - but I digress.)

Further investigation revealed that the K75 on offer was a two-owner bike, with the most recent offender having owned it for the past 20 years. The owner said it had "about 30k miles", hardly broken in. It had not run for two years, so bad gas could be assumed though no attempt to start it had been made. There was a broken mounting stud on the radiator fairing to one side, but otherwise it was quite clean. Corbin seat, and original BMW side cases were included.

The owner seemed reluctant to discuss price. I estimated based on the apparent going rate for relatively low-mile K75s that it should go for $2000-ish in it's current non-running state, and resolved to attempt to bargain the fellow down to about $1800. I figured that would put me in a decent position to get it back up and running and be in the $2500 ballpark, which I would be comfortable with.

So I went to see the bike in person, and it was as advertised. Clean, obviously cared for, and to my surprise "about 30k miles" turned out to mean just shy of 25k. Score.

After much verbal nerdery about the bike, touring, and motorcycles in general I told the seller I was interested but needed to know what he wanted to get out of it. After a lingering gaze directed at the bike, he said: "You'll have to clean the fuel system. It may need a fuel filter after sitting this long. I put a new fuel pump in two years ago, but if the gas is really bad that could need replacing too. And you might need tires, these have good tread but they're old. If this was running, it would go for about $3000." He paused.

I've bought more than a few bikes over the years, and I'm very familiar with the old "If this was X, it'd cost Y" gambit. It's a nice way to re-frame the humorously exorbitant price the seller is about to name. I braced myself for battle.

"How about $1200?"

I may have pooped a little.

Normally I feel honor-bound to negotiate, if only on principle. For possibly the first time ever, I couldn't do it.

I honestly believe this fellow was more interested in seeing his bike get back on the road and having someone enjoy it than in making any money off it, and that's a rare thing.

24 hours later there's a little red K75 taking up space in my garage, sandwiched in between the popup camper and the door. Time to get to work.



Based on warnings from a BMW-knowledgeable friend regarding elderly ethanol and melting rubber bits in the fuel, I suppressed the urge to try to jump start it just to see if it would run. No need to suck tar into the newish fuel pump.

The fuel pump grommet itself had full integrity, possible due to being replace along with the fuel pump 2 years prior. However, there were signs of smeared rubber in the bottom of the tank which seemed to indicate that there had been a cleanup effort at some point, probably concurrent with the pump replacement.

Just to be sure I pulled the pump and grommet and had a gander at the sump. It was full of this nonsense:



All told, there was probably about 1/2 a cup of the stuff. I suspect this is the remains of a previous fuel pump grommet. Shame on whoever replaced that - why would you replace an expensive pump that died of rubber inhalation only to leave the same rubber floating in the sump? Cleaning it out is free. Come on, people. It's like replacing the furniture in a house that is still on fire.

I scooped as much out as I could by hand, and left the tank open to vent. After it's completely dried, I may make a pass with a vacuum to get the stragglers; I'm sure there's more where that came from.

On the plus side the aluminum inside the tank showed no sign of corrosion, possibly due to the heinous amount of rubber goo that had coated it. There's a positive side to everything. The goo is mostly gone, but the lingering smear marks show that it was widespread at some point.

While I'm waiting (a day or so) for the tank to ventilate and dry I'll move on to the next bits: oil change, spark plug check (replace if needed), fuel rail purge, and valve adjustment. We'll see if the battery will hold a charge, though I'm not sanguine about it's chances. Might even do a brake fluid / coolant replacement while we're at it (hey, I'm gonna make this into a project one way or another...)

After the above items, I'll give the splines a lube and look into a set of tires. According to the date codes these are 11 years old, which is getting borderline I guess - though there is no cracking and lots of tread remaining. Hate to toss seemingly decent rubber but even a mild slide down the pavement tends to cost substantially more than a set of cyclesneakers, so what the hell. Besides, there's something to be said for peace of mind.

More bulletins as events warrant.

...and yes, I do tend to be long-winded in print. It comes from being a social introvert and not getting out much as a kid. 'pologies.

Offline mystic red

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2014, 02:04:07 AM »
Great post...good score...$1200 my aching ass! That's unreal! Full belly laugh when you said "I may have pooped a little." Welcome.

Offline Glacial

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2014, 03:56:20 AM »
You are one lucky man!!!!
  • Cambridge, UK
  • 1990 K75S VIN 0109678
'If this is your mid-life crisis, you are going to live to be 114'

Offline GoatLord

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2014, 10:39:34 PM »
And with that, let's get back to the project thread. Thank you gentlemen for your thoughts on the tire question; it's not quite oil thread level, but certainly debate worthy. However, let's leave that topic for the time to other threads dedicated to the question.

Since the fuel tank was full of rubber debris - or derbis, as they say in Minnesota - I wanted to fully clean it before reassembly. I picked out about 1/2 of a cup's worth with shop towels, but there was a good couple tablespoons left that were being recalcitrant. I let it sit with the filler cap assembly removed for 72 hours to allow the remnants of the gasoline turpentine to fully evaporate, then exorcised the last of the rubber demons by dint of much shaking and the illicit application of my wife's vacuum cleaner. On a side note - it probably would have been better to wait on that last till she'd left for work, but that's another story.

With the rubber removed I set about re-assembling the pump assembly. Getting the sock filter fitted to the end of the fuel pump (over the pump mounting grommet) was a challenge, but with patience and some slight trimming of the rough edges of the grommet with a razor blade I was able to declare victory at last.

The fuel rail was still full of the crappy old gas, so I popped off the return line and gently blew it clear from the input end. More yellow gas came out, but now I felt it had at least a shot at getting some clean fresh go juice into the injectors. I also removed the flapper from the gas cap assembly prior to reinstallation, might as well while we're in there. The tank vent line was already correctly routed and the crankcase vent capped. Score one for someone along the line paying attention.

One more sidebar: The previous owner was kind enough to pass on his service records, which showed the replacement of the fuel pump and mount in 2012. The replacement was performed at Denver BMW, and I'm exceptionally disappointed in the quality of their work. Not only was the fuel sump full of pieces of the old mounting grommet, but the sock filter was not actually fitted to the pump AT ALL. It was just sitting in the sump, completely detached from the pump assembly. I know that it did not fall off, due to the difficulty involved in getting it fitted to the pump. It's very solidly on there once mounted correctly, it would take some significant effort to remove. The dealer tech apparently had the same issue with installation and went with the F--- it approach and just stuffed the whole works back in un-assembled. On top of a sump full of rubber bits just waiting for their chance to get sucked into the new pump.

This is exactly why I work on my own machines. Well, that and the fact that they charged the PO over $1200 for this abominable excuse for service. This bike will never be serviced at that establishment. I would expect better from a BMW dealership in a major city, but that's apparently naive.

Rant off.

On a happier note, the battery was also replaced in 2012 with a fresh 19 amp hour BMW battery. Although it had sat uncharged since, it accepted a slow trickle charge and held steady at 12.24 volts over 48 hours off the charger. There's one less part to buy.

After installing the fuel pump assembly back in the tank and plugging everything back in, I flipped on the key hoping to at least hear a whir out of it. No such luck, zero noise. I unplugged it again at the harness and used a test light to check for voltage while cycling the key. Still nothing.

A consultation of the wiring diagram seemed to indicate that the fuel level sending unit may be involved with the pump wiring to some degree, so I figured what the hell - I'll put some gas in and crank it. Never know, and I've spent way too much time in the past trying to track down a problem that wasn't actually a problem. For all I knew, it needed something in the tank or to be cranked over to actually run the pump.

With some trepidation involving the thought that I might just be taking it back out again, I poured in two gallons of premium and waited a couple minutes.

So far so good. No leaks. Check all the connections, then check 'em again. OK, it's go time.

Key in ignition, turn on, confirm trans in neutral, and push the little green button. Crankage! Guess that old battery still has some moves. And best of all, I can now hear the fuel pump whirring happily away as it pushes the air out of the lines and replaces it with sweet and tasty gasoline.

Couple more crank attempts (don't want to overwork the starter) and no sign of combustion. Ummm...let's think about this. Hey wait, what's this lever on the left bar? Choke??? I thought this was injected...

A quick Googling revealed that the "choke" is more a fast idle, which come to think of it I have seen on other FI bikes. The last couple I'd owned hadn't had it, so it hadn't occurred to me to look.

Ok, fake choke on and let's crank that sucker again. This time we get a couple pops, then a couple more, then...

...a self-perpetuating combustion cycle!  :2thumbup:

It's running rough, two out of three cylinders are going and the third is trying but mostly just popping. Ok, shut 'er down Harvey let's look at this.

The plugs looked oil fouled and generally dirty with one being slightly more so than the others so we'll start there. A quick trip to the local auto parts store produced three NGKs of the proper variety and a quiz from the counter tech on why I needed THREE plugs, when all motors should have an even number as the good lord intended.

Home again with the new plugs and whoops...they don't have those cute little nipples on the caps, just a threaded rod.  :bang-head: I hastily pilfered le boxe de la shiite, and came up with two but not three threaded caps. Well...mebbe I can clean up the best looking of the Bosch plugs. I really want to see if the new plugs make a difference, and I'm not excited about driving back to the parts store just now.

I cleaned up the best of the original plugs and installed it in the center cylinder, on the theory that I'll remember which one it's in when I go to change it with the correct NGK plug tomorrow. The two properly nippled (I never thought I'd type that sentence) plugs were installed in the outside cylinders, and we're ready to go again.

One light touch of the wake-up button and holy rampaging elephants in Africa - we're running! And smoothly at that.

The choke was still on (would not idle with it off prior to the plug replacement) but that was quickly dispensed with and it settled down to a smooth idle. I let it run for a minute, then shut it down to complete reassembly. (I've learned over the years that if you fully reassemble anything prior to testing it, you are damn near guaranteeing yourself that the fates will align to make you take it all apart again. That is the truth right there, gentlemen.)

Speaking of taking it apart again, the seat latch rod had fallen down into the depths beneath the battery at some point and this necessitated removing the Motronic box, carrier, and battery for a 4th time (don't ask about the others) to rescue it. But at long last everything was back together, triple checked, and it's time to ride.

Not far of course, but a victory lap around the condo loop seemed in order so off I went.

Needless to say I didn't get up to any shenanigans, but did shift 1-2 and back a few times in the course of my excursion and everything felt good. There is a brief stumble off idle if the throttle is addressed with purpose, but I suspect that will dissipate with mileage and some fuel cleaner. Getting that third plug updated surely won't hurt in this regard either.

The only other tidbit to address was the altitude circuit. Although Denver is (famously) over 5k feet above sea level, no jumper plug was installed. I rectified this by snipping the wire and crimping on a set of spade connectors; far from an elegant solution, but it gets the job done until I source an OEM accessory switch for the handlebar switch block and route the wires up there. I like the idea of making it easily switchable for mixed-altitude rides. Side note, if anyone has a line on a switch that will fit cleanly in the OEM position where there are currently several switch blanks (next to the ignition switch), I'd be much obliged.

That's all for now; I'm out of town for most of the week on business, but hope to get on the road in short order following that.

Thanks for putting up with my ramblings, and I'll keep updating here as things go along. I enjoy writing down what I've been doing, it's a way to obsess about the cycle even when I'm not actually interacting with it and I like to think that chatting with other motorheads keeps me from torturing my wife with endless happy exclamations involving valves and rotating mass and sundry other topics which I've a knack for inserting into our conversations.

Till next time...

PS: By all means, let's have a "how old is too old" tire debate thread somewhere. I'd love to jump into that conversation - I'm very opinionated - but want to keep my project thread somewhat on topic. Only somewhat though, so please comment away as the desire strikes you.  :curvy-road

Offline pdg

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2014, 05:02:33 AM »
If you can find one about, use an oem BMW switch for the altitude plug mod. For instance, my heated grip one is just on-off-on and unlabeled...

Not that I particularly like (or dislike) the oem switches for any reason, but it will fit, it will work, plus bonus look oem too.
1988 K75S

Offline mystic red

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2014, 02:27:40 PM »
I cleaned up your project thread......carry on GoatLord. No tire debates here. :nono

Offline GoatLord

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2014, 12:33:52 AM »
On the road

Being out of town when you have a new bike in the garage that you've never ridden is a special kind of torture, but I survived the trip to the east coast and returned ready to get things in order. The mandatory governmental paperwork was completed on the cycle prior to departure, and it was ready to ride.

First order of business was to collect additional maintenance items to continue the rehabilitation process. An order was placed on Amazon for some Honda moly 60 early in the week, and it had arrived in time for the weekend. I mounted up the hard bags and headed into town to collect some other sundries.

First stop was the parts store for a spark plug nipple. Apparently the NGK Bosch-equivalent plugs do not come with the proper full-size nipple, substituting a threaded stem as commonly seen on snowmobiles. Fortunately I had two such nipples on hand, but being one short of the three required I returned to Autozone for the additional item.

The counter clerk was very confused by my request for part of a spark plug, and seemed unable to even comprehend my request to purchase an additional plug - any plug - that had a proper threaded nipple that I could pillage. Fortunately the manager was more astute, and to his great credit he pulled a plug off the shelf, removed the nipple that I needed and gave it to me at no cost. I would have been glad to buy the entire plug for the 1.68 asking price, but he was gracious enough to offer and I was glad to accept. It's nice to find a place that goes above and beyond to satisfy. I'll go back there.

Another quick stop for oil and a filter, and I headed home...or tried to. Instead, the bike pointed it's nose down the long way home and being loath to introduce dissent this early in our relationship I acquiesced.

A couple things became quickly apparent on the return trip. One, there was a substantial amount of effort involved in holding oneself in a not-so-hunched position on the freeway; a windshield would be in order. Two, there is a significant shudder upon braking which originates from the front end. This will bear further investigation.

That evening I changed the oil and installed the last new spark plug. The original Bosch plug had cleaned itself nicely, I could likely have gotten away with simply cleaning the existing plugs - but no worries. New plugs are a nice feeling in the back of one's mind, and that's worth the sub-$6 price of admission.

There was a riser installed on the handlebars which I removed, I'm not as tall as the P.O. and I wanted to develop a baseline in stock configuration before reinstalling at some future date to see if I like the higher and more rearward mounted bar. Thus far the stock position is fine.

Saturday morning I pulled the final drive and conducted a spline lube. The splines did not show signs of wear, but they were drier than I would like to see so it feels good to know there's an ample coating of Honda moly 60 on there to keep things ship-shape. I left the clutch splines alone for the nonce, that seems like a fantastic winter project and as the shifting feels fine I suspect that I will be able to coast through the last couple months of fall without causing undue damage. Besides, I really wanted to ride.

With the splines lubed, final drive oil changed and the rear end reassembled and torqued to spec I headed across town to secure some accessories. First up were a set of grips to replace the cracked foam currently installed. For once, the $10 grips were more desirable than the $20 set so I snatched a set and went to browse wind protection devices.

I don't like large windshields. I like to feel some breeze about the arms, and aesthetically a small flyscreen is more pleasing on most cycles to my eye. With that in mind I selected a National Cycle Deflector, which more or less fit the bill. Prices at the local shop were within $3-$4 of online vendors, so I was glad to spend my money locally.

I got a few funny looks installing the windshield in the parking lot, but nobody seemed to mind. The new screen wouldn't fit in the side cases without potential for damage, so I figured it was best to just get it snapped on right then and there. As an added bonus, several other motorheads wandered over to chat. One gentleman remarked "that's the coolest bike here", which I took to be a strong endorsement given the range of $8-$20k bikes filling the parking lot at the time. Awww...  :bmwsmile

Since I was not able to install the windshield in an ideal manner with the tools at hand, I repaired to my garage to put the finishing touches on the install. A couple tweaks with a real wrench and some trimming of the mounting posts (which will impact the tank if left full length) and I was in business. Time to go for a real ride.

At this point it was after 1700, so I chose a short 50-mile loop through the foothills looping from Evergreen to Golden. I couldn't have done better; the road from C-470 to Evergreen (Morrison road) was fantastically windy and all but free of traffic. Mindful of the aged tires (which show zero weather cracking, no doubt due to indoor storage but are surely lacking some of the stickiness with which they were originally endowed) and my period of cycle-abstinence, I tackled the ride at a relaxed pace. It was divine.

The new windshield provides the perfect amount of protection from the windblast at freeway speeds, without unduly restricting airflow. Cooler temperature in the foothills proved that plenty of air is getting through to the general jacket area. There is a small increase in noise from the windshieldless configuration, but that may be remedied with some tweaking of the angle. All in all, it does exactly what I wanted it to do.

The bikes handling, looks, and power output remind me strongly of my first reliable bike, an '83 NightHawk 650. Braking is much better than the 'Hawk though, remarkable given that both were designed in the same period. On a side note, that was a great machine - bought it with about the same amount of miles for about the same amount of money, though granted this was some 12 years ago. I really feel that they are very similar in feel and mission, with a slight edge to the BMW in the power and braking departments and an advantage to the NightHawk in the cost of ownership and insane simplicity of maintenance realm. The Honda had a maintenance-free tappet valvetrain, and to my knowledge the final drive does not require attention and has no real issues. In the 25k that I owned the bike, I put gas, oil and tires into it and that was very nearly it. Come to think of it though, I do not miss the paltry 120-150 mile fuel range that the Honda served up; there was at least one episode of pushing the bike the last two miles to town on a 90 degree day in one of the large western states where petrol stations are few and far between.

So a few more projects to keep me entertained:

Fiddle with gauges. The trip meter does not reset the final two digits, not a nightmare but not ideal. If it proves to be an expensive fix I will likely leave it be; at most the trip would be off by 9.9 miles on reset, which I can certainly live with. The speedometer needle has a sticky spot around 30MPH, which corrects itself at roughly 40MPH. Speaking of roughly, the speedometer is on the wildly optimistic side so a recalibration is also in order. The rear tire has been replaced with a radial - ergo, non-OEM sizing - and therefore the speedo is even more inaccurate than it was out of the box. Also the gauge faces are peeling up in spots, which may contribute to the sticking needle at 30.

Check valve lash. I happen to have a small collection of shims left over from my KLR, so may not need to purchase more depending on the size(s) required. I understand I'll also need a valve compression tool to do the actual adjustment if needed, but I figure I'll check the current values first to determine if an adjustment is even necessary before ordering the tool.

Last but not least, address the shakin' brakin' from the front end. The rotors have been replaced at some point with "Braking" branded rotors, so I suspect this isn't a new problem. Whether the rotors themselves are at fault remains to be seen. Wheel bearings for the Y-spoke ("snowflake") wheels that I have are relatively inexpensive compared to new rotors, so we will start there and eliminate that as a contributing factor before moving on to more spendy bits. Speaking of, I saw a pic of a K75 (I think) with wave rotors somewhere; if anyone has the downlow on that, it might be a nice way to go. If I have to spend ~$200/each for EBC rotors anyway, I wouldn't be opposed to dropping a bit more on those sexy waves. But we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.

More as time and inspiration permit.

Offline GoatLord

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2014, 12:41:43 AM »
And a couple pics from the evening ride:

Offline mystic red

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2014, 05:27:59 AM »
You must master picture posting, GL, it's a requirement on this site.

Offline GoatLord

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2014, 01:16:42 AM »
Been a while since I updated this...mostly, I've been too busy riding.

The bike is running fantastically well. The front brake issue turned out to be just that, a front brake issue. I replaced the rotors and pads with EBC and all is well - no more shudder when braking. Once the pads bedded in, I have to say I was pleasantly surprised at the braking performance - not bad for 1980's tech.

There's a little bit of a buzziness occurring at 70-75 which is annoying but bearable. I've synced TBs and so forth, still need to check the valves. Might be a bit of a combustion imbalance there. I'll get it worked out eventually.

The national cycle windshield has been good for keeping off windblast, but I'm not happy with it on long trips at speed. The buffeting at 75 is egregious. I may be able to fix it with some adjusting and fiddling, but that brings me to my next point...

I picked up a complete and running '86 K100RS for cheap. It's a former VT bike, so no title - not insurmountable, but I'm more interested in it as a donor anyway. My thought is, why not attempt a K75RS build? It's been done at least a couple times before, but rarely and the cost of collecting parts for such an undertaking piecemeal is exorbitant. But since I have this complete K100RS just sitting here, I figured I might as well go for it. I can part out the rest and likely be money ahead.

Before committing to the RS conversion it seemed like a good idea to go for a ride on the K100 and see if I actually liked the RS fairing setup. I rode for about an hour and a half, which I felt was long enough to give me an idea of what I was in for.

I'm quite impressed with the wind management of the RS fairing. The "rough zone" is just below my helmet, I'm really up in pretty clean air. Perfect. After an hour at 75-80MPH I was ready for more rather than getting grumpy from the buffeting.

The RS mirrors suck. But then again, they seem to create nice little pockets of still air for my hands, and even though it was a cool evening my mitts stayed warm. I think with a couple fisheye mirrors stuck on the inside edge where the view of my elbows is now, I would be fine with the RS mirrors.

I admit I was also curious to ride a K100 and compare to the K75. Thoughts:

Moar Powa. But really, although I found myself at speed with less "effort" than the K75, it didn't FEEL fast. My Tiger 1050 felt fast. This doesn't. The K75 CERTAINLY doesn't, but it's not expected to.

Moar Vibes! Lots more. I'm willing to accept the notion that this particular K100 may not be in the best tune and other examples may be significantly smoother, but what a difference from the K75. Where the K75 is smooth as butter up to around 70, the K100 really only smoothed out over 75 and it STILL felt like bees in my britches. Under 75 it was truly heinous. Great for blasting across Kansas no doubt, but unimpressive for the riding I actually enjoy. I really think if I get the K75's 70+ situation sorted, it will be a near-perfect motor for the speeds and type of riding I like to do.

The RS has the narrow bars, but it appears to have a bar-back sort of arrangement that moves the bars a couple inches up and back. I liked the position - I wouldn't want to be any farther forward or it would feel too reachy, but as it is it was comfortable for the ride I did.

The K100 handles very heavy. This could be any number of factors though; different tires, more weight, or those short little bars. Whatever the cause, at low speed it felt like the tires were rocking 10psi a pop. (They were actually aired up to spec - I checked before hitting the road).

After getting back to the garage and snapping a couple quick pics of the K100 in it's complete state, I started tearing it down. So far things are looking great for the fairing swap, with a couple minor caveats:

- The fuel gauge/pump wiring connector is in a different location, and a different shape as well I believe. I'd like to resolve this without any splicing, but the jury's out for now.

- The upper side fairing mounts on the K100 do not have equivalent mounting locations on the K75. The K75 does have threaded mounts welded in the same basic location, but they are located to the rear of the frame bar instead of to the outside. This should be easy enough to work around. I do wish I had welding capability, but in lieu of that I'll work something out.

All in all, it should be fun. Pics will be added as events warrant, but here's one of the RS pre-disassembly to get us by.

There are also a few other goodies on the RS that I intend to poach for the 75 including BMW heated grips, fork boots, gauges without hideously warped faceplates, and last but not least what certainly appears to be a Works Performance rear shock.  :eek: (Although I haven't looked to closely yet, maybe someone can confirm from the pic). No real idea on the condition of the shock, except that the spring is clearly much stiffer than that on the 75. It was also wound up to full preload, which lead to a very jolting ride. Felt like the shock was topping out on every little bump. I'll crank it down and slap it on the 75 and see how it does.

More bulletins as events warrant.

-

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2014, 10:12:18 PM »
Nice score on that K100, GL!  Yes, that is a Works shock on it.  I have the Works on my K75RT at the second lowest preload setting and it seems to work best at that setting for solo riding.  Less preload and it doesn't track well in curves and more it feels like a hardtail on the joints in concrete highways.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline GoatLord

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Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2014, 11:31:10 PM »
Thanks for the intel on the shock. It looks like there's a little oil on the piston shaft, so a rebuild may be in order. Still, at least the Works is rebuildable...or so I hope.

Progress has been made on the teardown. Everything is done except for cracking into the motor itself, which I'm still mulling over - sell complete or part it? In my past experience complete motors don't go for much, and shipping 'em is a bear.

This is the first machine I've torn down with the aid of power tools, it goes really quick. I have a Milwaukee 1/2" 18 volt impact for the big stuff, and a DeWalt 20v 1/4" impact which does the majority of the work. There aren't that many fasteners on the average motorcycle that the little impact can't handle.

Funny side note - my wife found the little DeWalt lying in the bushes on the side of the road while we were out on a (pedal) bike ride. It had obviously been there a while, but lo and behold I pulled the trigger and it worked! We ran it on various projects for a couple months before I even had to buy a charger for it. After buzzing apart the K100 in just a few hours, it's now my very favorite tool. Should have had one of these years ago.

Offline GoatLord

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 16
Re: The little red bike: 1991 K75 Standard
« Reply #12 on: October 29, 2014, 01:05:03 AM »
The conversion is complete; the red bike has been transformed into a pearl K75 RS.  :2thumbup:

Took her out for a ride this evening despite the somewhat low mercury and I'm very pleased with the outcome. Much less buffeting than the naked K with or without windshield, and I like the more aggressive riding position. Part of the conversion involved going from a Corbin low to a Corbin standard seat, which gave me a bit more legroom as well. I did fit barbacks on the RS bars; the position is plenty far forward even so, and I imagine I would not be happy with the stock position. Riding is (not surprisingly) very like the K100RS, but WITHOUT VIBRATION. That last part makes it all work, in my book.

Also pleased to discover that the OEM heated grips (which came over with the RS bars from the K100) work quite excellently. It was in the low 40's this evening but my mitts stayed toasty.

SS brake lines and a different lever (swiped from the K100 as well) produced a substantial difference in braking feel, much improved. New brake fluid and a good bleed probably didn't hurt either, but the old lever seemed to have an unnecessarily short reach; it wasn't quite to the bar at full squeeze but closer than I'd like.

All in all, the K100 parts have really transformed the bike. This feels like something I could hit several states on in a weekend. Could have done on the naked K as well, but much less comfortably. Where the naked K would be tiring after a few hours with windblast and whatnot, the RS just invites you to keep riding.

The conversion process took about two solid days of work, spread over several evenings. For the most part it was plug and play, with a few notable exceptions:
  • Horn wiring must be spliced
  • Fuel sender wiring was also spliced, but from what I can tell this was due to the use of a much older (86) donor. It appears that a later model K100 would have had the same wiring as the K75
  • Added a bolt through the steering stop at the front of the frame prevent forks from contacting fairing brackets at full lock
  • Fabricated mounts for the K100 fuel tank; different from K75. Lacking a welder I epoxied a couple cage nuts onto the frame. Crude but effective.
  • Replaced the upper fork clamp on the K75 with that from the K100. Wider between the handlebar clamps, oddly; this was needed to mount the K100 handlebar pad/dash thingy. Could have worked around it but I had it right there off the donor and it had rubber mounts for the bars, so why not.
  • Ignition switch pigtail plugs are different; used original K75 ignition. I also swapped out the K100 filler cap with the K75 cap to retain the same lock cylinder (only want to carry one key) and attempted to do the same with the seat lock; unfortunately the low seat lock cylinder is not the same as the high seat cylinder and so I resorted to trimming the tumblers with the ol' Dremel such that the K75 key would work. Ideal, no, but functional. It still locks.
  • Had to trim the left lower fairing a smidge due to the shorter K75 engine block. The bulge at the front of the timing cover impacted the fairing. No trimming needed for the right side.

...and that's about it for nonstandard mods needed for the swap. Again, I think many of the wiring tweaks could have been avoided had the bikes been closer in age (a difference between Jetronic and Motronic perhaps?) In any case, it's all working so no complaints.

I would not have wanted to do this without the donor bike; even with used parts it would have been prohibitively expensive. However, having happened on the complete donor bike, it was a ton of fun and the result is that I have a bike that's a) more fun to ride and b) not something you see often, BMW having declined to produce a K75RS. I'm aware of just two other conversions, though I'm sure it's been done more than that. Still, definite cool factor there.

Next up I'll be pilfering some bits from the RS gauges to fix my broken tripmeter and warped faceplates. More to come...

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