Post by: SpecialK on June 14, 2019, 09:42:50 PM
The fuel level sensor is toast also so I will either order new (seems the only ones available are BMW OEM) or do without for a while and track my mileage between fill ups.
Will try to get a pic of the tank inside. Looks to be some corosion but it should come out.
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Post by: Laitch on June 15, 2019, 12:22:46 AM
The fuel level sensor is toast also so I will either order new (seems the only ones available are BMW OEM) or do without for a while and track my mileage between fill ups.EME also has that part if it's the float type (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/flf-565.htm).
Post by: SpecialK on June 23, 2019, 07:00:37 PM
Yes I have the float type fuel level sensor (see photo). As you can see it is toast and used or after market are hard to find so looks like I will spring the $224 from EME or from MAX BMW same price.
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The tank was about as dirty and full of rotted rubber vibration foam as others I have seen posted.
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I suspended the tank by a wire through the two rings near the front of the tank. I wanted all the crud to fall into the end so I can remove it. I sloshed some gas around in there to wash the particles down and then siphoned the gas off with the siphon tube.
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I also plugged the two fuel lines so as not to get any dirt falling into the lines. I did not have golf tees so I used pens that seemed to work well.
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Here's a shot of the inside after spending about an hour just trying to get the particles out, using gasoline and rags. I scoured this one area with a 3M Scotchbright pad. After the tank dries out I am planning on using the two bottles of white vinegar I saw posted here. Will inform of the results with that.
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Post by: volador on June 24, 2019, 12:44:44 AM
Save the vinegar for your fish and chips and salad
Good Day
Post by: Scott_ on June 24, 2019, 06:39:12 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 24, 2019, 08:09:40 AM
Phosphoric acid solution or truck wash using a parts cleaning brush or double thick chip brush clean that tank lickety split
Save the vinegar for your fish and chips and salad
Good Day
White vinegar has done the job for many of us, and the price is very attractive. Especially so, when he already has it. Granted, it smells funkier than the alternatives, but this time of year you can do the work outdoors.
Post by: natalena on June 24, 2019, 08:32:23 AM
Post by: SpecialK on June 24, 2019, 03:22:46 PM
Post by: SpecialK on June 25, 2019, 09:03:37 PM
Here's the scrubbing device.
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Before and after.
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Two more angles.
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Here is a shot of the damping material on the tank bottom. It looks in good shape so I don't plan on replacing it.
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So it looks like the tank is almost ready to go. I would appreciate any input as to the sequence of list items to tackle before attempting to start the bike. Keep in mind the bike has been sitting for over 10 years with gas and all other fluids in it.
Here is a list of items that I know needs to be attended to but not sure what would be the correct order:
New battery
Check radiator, drain, flush, and new fluid
Check and possibly clean injectors
Replace spark plugs
Air filter
Change oil
Once I get the bike running I will plan on replacing brake fluid and lines, checking calipers and pads, make sure all electrics work, new tires, etc.
Thanks!
Post by: Laitch on June 25, 2019, 09:14:38 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 25, 2019, 09:15:22 PM
The fuel pressure regulator might give you some grief, but it may be fine. You won't know on it till you get the tank back together and run the fuel pump.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 25, 2019, 11:23:44 PM
I know that it has taken me several thousand miles and at least five or six bottles of Techron to get my K100's running properly after extended idle time, even after the tank was flushed. I often wonder if it's crap in the fuel rail getting down into the injectors.
If the engine doesn't run well when you start it, even after running a couple tanks of fuel through it, I might consider sending the injectors and the fuel rail to a good injector cleaner to have them all cleaned out.
Post by: SpecialK on June 26, 2019, 08:40:49 PM
When I see these funky tank interiors I can't help but wonder what the inside of the fuel rail looks like.
I know that it has taken me several thousand miles and at least five or six bottles of Techron to get my K100's running properly after extended idle time, even after the tank was flushed. I often wonder if it's crap in the fuel rail getting down into the injectors.
If the engine doesn't run well when you start it, even after running a couple tanks of fuel through it, I might consider sending the injectors and the fuel rail to a good injector cleaner to have them all cleaned out.
Mr. Injector does it for $17.50 for GDI injectors
Post by: natalena on June 26, 2019, 09:50:51 PM
Post by: volador on June 27, 2019, 02:18:55 AM
Mr. Injector does it for $17.50 for GDI injectors
Old injectors belong in the Bin.:hehehe Upgrade to the latest and greatest from Bosch and tills.de. A matched EV14 injector set. (https://www.tills.de/product-20.html)
Upgrade the OEM fan to a Spal Fan (https://www.tills.de/product-112-113-158.html) and add The Johnny blanket (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=460.0).
Tills.de parts order received in 5 days via DHL.
Since you have the tank off and if so inclined, adding a headlight relay if the moto does not have one will improve bulb output and preserve headlight switch assembly.
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4962.msg30932.html
http://culayer.com/product/matchbox-headlight-relay/
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
Eastern Beaver parts received in 5 days via Japan EMS.
Upgrade the battery cabling with the EME Battery Cable Kit (4 Gauge) - BMW K Bike; Neg 61 12 1 244 577 (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Battery-Cable-Kit-BMW-K-BCK-5771317-p/bck-5771317.htm)
Squirt some penetrating oil or Marvel Mystery Oil into cylinders on the plug change
You'll be ripping up Dutchess in no time
Post by: Laitch on June 27, 2019, 07:34:29 AM
Here is a shot of the damping material on the tank bottom.That is insulation—not damping material—to reduce engine heat transfer into the fuel tank. It can be renewed at relatively little cost with material like Reflectix and its effect improved on the RT and RS models by being installed as a johnny blanket (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,460.msg949.html#msg949).
Post by: SpecialK on June 27, 2019, 08:08:52 AM
It doesn't take much time or expense, but I'd change the tranny fluid and final drive fluid. Checking and lubing the FD spline is a piece of cake, and takes an hour of leisure wrenching. If nothing else, it'll give you peace of mind and a starting point for maintenance.
Good suggestion, thanks.
Post by: SpecialK on June 27, 2019, 08:16:39 AM
I'd kill off that grass in there, too.
No, It's necessary for the green fuel movement. :giggles
Post by: SpecialK on June 30, 2019, 09:40:05 AM
Haines manual shot of drain plug.
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Post by: rbm on June 30, 2019, 10:21:10 AM
Post by: SpecialK on June 30, 2019, 01:40:30 PM
There could be a temperature sensor installed on your pump in that hole instead of the plug shown in that photo. That sensor would have been used by the water temperature gauge as part of the auxillary instrument package (if your bike originally had that option). But all oil-water pumps for the classic K's were the same. In that photo, you can just catch a glimpse of the rubber boot over the oil pressure switch that goes to the OEM gauge cluster.
Thanks Robert, they said I would get a lot of knowledgeable replies on Motobrick. I did see a rubber boot where the plug should be and there is a sensor in there. I also have a temperature guage on the fairing
Post by: SpecialK on June 30, 2019, 01:49:48 PM
Checking and lubing the FD spline is a piece of cake, and takes an hour of leisure wrenching. If nothing else, it'll give you peace of mind and a starting point for maintenance.
I would plan on doing this. I have some invoices from work done back in 1991 that shows the spline servicing was done at 7,000 miles and the bike now has about 15,000. Do you think it would still be in good shape after 8,000 miles? Thanks
Post by: natalena on June 30, 2019, 03:16:39 PM
I would plan on doing this. I have some invoices from work done back in 1991 that shows the spline servicing was done at 7,000 miles and the bike now has about 15,000. Do you think it would still be in good shape after 8,000 miles? ThanksNot due to mileage, but rather extended time, the spline lube could very well be dried out and the consistency of stale Pop Tart filling. I would guess blueberry. Anyhoo, removing the rear wheel, supporting the drive so it doesn't sag down and ruin the rubber bellow (I just use a jack stand and piece of wood), and removing the 4 hex bolts is one of the easier things to do on the brick. Hint: make sure the wheel spacer is in place when bolting the rim back on. Cheers!
afterthought ... you could check/clean the speedo pick-up on the FD at the same time.
Post by: Laitch on June 30, 2019, 03:26:15 PM
The underlying concern is whether the factory techs actually did the procedure correctly. My inclination would be to lube them now then check again in 10K–20K miles depending upon how many miles are ridden annually, how hard the machine is ridden and how well it is downshifting.
Post by: Laitch on June 30, 2019, 03:36:34 PM
Post by: SpecialK on June 30, 2019, 05:04:59 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 30, 2019, 08:37:44 PM
The RT now has a bit over 92,000 milles and the splines are just beginning to show a hint of wear. I would expect them to get me to at least 150,000 miles before I'll need a new driveshaft or final drive.
Post by: SpecialK on July 01, 2019, 08:29:36 AM
Post by: natalena on July 01, 2019, 09:21:05 AM
Post by: SpecialK on July 01, 2019, 08:23:59 PM
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Here is another photo of a rubber, looks like crancase vent tube, in front of the air filter housing, that has a hex scew in it. Is the tube supposed to be open? Why would the hex screw be in there?
Thanks.
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Post by: natalena on July 01, 2019, 08:34:13 PM
Post by: SpecialK on July 01, 2019, 08:40:26 PM
The origin of the tube is the two nipples on the bottom of the gas tank.
Yes I saw those nipples. don't they just rest inside that little plastic cup under the tank?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 01, 2019, 09:55:48 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 01, 2019, 11:09:34 PM
Here is another photo of a rubber, looks like crancase vent tube, in front of the air filter housing, that has a hex scew in it. Is the tube supposed to be open? Why would the hex screw be in there?Once upon a time, that vent tube was also attached to one of the two ports that now empty into the cup attached to the frame. There was a one-way valve in the middle of it. The tube's purpose was to meet California emission standards by venting fumes from the tank into the crankcase. It was an imperfect idea so the remedy was to remove the hose from the fuel tank then either plug the crankcase port or plug the hose, as natalena indicated. Somebody screwed your hose to plug it. If the crankcase port were not plugged, the engine would likely run rough or stall.
After decoupling that from the crankcase, the tank vent port—and the fuel cap water drain port next to it—either had hoses attached to them that dumped behind the right foot peg plate, or the ports dumped into a cup attached to the frame like yours do. The cup should have a hose attached to the underside of it that dumps downward behind the right foot peg plate.
Post by: SpecialK on July 01, 2019, 11:14:02 PM
When you put the temperature sender back into the water pump be careful to only get it a bit more than snug.Thanks. Yes I saw that in the Haines manual torque to 9.
Post by: SpecialK on July 02, 2019, 06:05:17 PM
Enduralast 52mm fuel pump kit (pump, housing, anti-vibration, fuel lines, fuel filter, filter cup, screws and clamps).
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WestCo 12V30 AGM battery.
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BMW OEM fuel level sensor.
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Will work on getting these installed over 4th Holiday. I am curious to see how the electrics come on after hooking up the battery.
Question; What is the best way to try an initial start-up since there may be old fuel in the lines and injectors? Should I take the injector rail out and crank the starter to expel old fuel out the injectors and into a container, or leave everything as is and try to start?
I will have to also refill the radiator with antifreeze since I drained it. I am figuring I can change the oil and filter after I get it started.
Thanks.
Post by: SpecialK on July 02, 2019, 06:33:54 PM
Are there common brands suitable for the K bikes available at the auto parts stores? I heard some people say they use any old antifreeze 50/50 like Prestone but I thought it should be specifically for alluminum block engines?
Thanks.
Post by: Laitch on July 02, 2019, 08:46:45 PM
I heard some people say . . .I knew a guy who smoked two packs of cigarettes a day and lived to be 80. I quit smoking anyway. :giggles
Any extended life (long-life) coolant without nitrites is acceptable to BMW, according to the coolant specs within its rider's handbook for the K75, so read the label.
Post by: natalena on July 02, 2019, 10:42:00 PM
Regarding antifreeze coolant, radiator flush, oil and filter;I only use BMW branded oil filters due to superstitious beliefs that the engineers knew what they were doing, as well as, the finance department at extracting your funds.
Are there common brands suitable for the K bikes available at the auto parts stores?
Since there's jugs of Mobil 1 Synth. in the garage, that's what I use. No gasket leaks, seal issues, or capricious running noted so far, as opposed to dino-oil.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 03, 2019, 09:37:47 AM
After reading a number of technical articles on oil, I have decided to get the oil with the highest possible film strength in psi. The best readily available is Quaker State Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic 5w-30 which has a film strength better than 85% of the oils for sale today. The best part is that Walmart sells it for $17.77 for a 5 quart jug.
For coolant, I am using Peak Long Life mixed 60/40 with distilled water. It is stated to be safe for all engines and won't void new car warranties. Nearly every new engine today has an aluminum block, and antifreeze manufacturers have had to adjust their formulas to accommodate the new engine requirements.
Post by: SpecialK on July 03, 2019, 10:44:17 AM
I get my oil filters from Carquest/Advanced who has WIX make them. They are rated highly in tests of filter performance. The part number is 85348.
After reading a number of technical articles on oil, I have decided to get the oil with the highest possible film strength in psi. The best readily available is Quaker State Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic 5w-30 which has a film strength better than 85% of the oils for sale today. The best part is that Walmart sells it for $17.77 for a 5 quart jug.
For coolant, I am using Peak Long Life mixed 60/40 with distilled water. It is stated to be safe for all engines and won't void new car warranties. Nearly every new engine today has an aluminum block, and antifreeze manufacturers have had to adjust their formulas to accommodate the new engine requirements.
That is really good information Gryphon! I was looking at the coolant in Advanced last night. Prestone has Long Life Dex Cool for aluminum radiators in full strength for $18.99 so that may be good as like you say, most of the formulas are designed for newer aluminum block engines.
Have you ever used a flush product for the radiator? I want to do that before I add any new coolant.
Post by: natalena on July 03, 2019, 11:03:40 AM
Have you ever used a flush product for the radiator? I want to do that before I add any new coolant.Prestone antifreeze works well, and I religiously use distilled water after a bad episode with a 320i radiator.
Flushing with white vinegar works well. A gallon is cheap, when mixed with water and run to warm the motor, leave it overnight, drain, flush out with the hose, and fill with whatever antifreeze/strength you like.
Sounds like you're having fun with the process, and bonding with your brick. :)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 03, 2019, 11:13:27 AM
I did it with my first K100 and it really cooled off the engine on hot days. It's something I'm going to have to do on the one I have now as the temperature gauge is reading a lot higher on hot days lately.
Post by: SpecialK on July 03, 2019, 01:10:30 PM
Flushing with white vinegar works well. A gallon is cheap, when mixed with water and run to warm the motor, leave it overnight, drain, flush out with the hose, and fill with whatever antifreeze/strength you like.
Sounds like you're having fun with the process, and bonding with your brick. :)
I am so glad you guys said the vinegar is good. I was thinking that since it worked so well cleaning the aluminum gas tank, why not the radiator. Now I don't have to go hunting down another $$ product.....and yes I am having fun, so far, as long as the process keeps going smoothly.... :yikes:
Post by: SpecialK on July 03, 2019, 01:14:04 PM
If it isn't too much hassle right now, it might be a good time to pull the radiator and clean the accumulation of dirt and dead bugs that is in the fins, blocking the airflow.
I did it with my first K100 and it really cooled off the engine on hot days.
Good idea, thanks for that advice. Doesn't seem too difficult and would benefit in the long run.
Post by: SpecialK on July 04, 2019, 04:46:42 PM
I checked the gap and I couldn't get the plug to slide over the slimest point on the gap tool, .5mm. Specs say they should be 0.6 - 0.7mm. Is this narrow gap OK or open them to 0.6 - 0.7?
I tried turning the rear wheel (by hand) with bike on the center stand in first gear but could not (with the plugs out so no compression). The pistons move though once I roll it and let the clutch out. Is it usually too hard to turn by hand?
Also, in the relay box under the tank, there is a white and a black pin connector that are not connected to anything (see photo). Where do these go? Accessories?
Here are some photos:
Plugs and cylinder head
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Open pin connectors
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Post by: Laitch on July 04, 2019, 06:09:52 PM
Specs say they should be 0.6 - 0.7mm. Is this narrow gap OK or open them to 0.6 - 0.7?Always go with the specs unless you're operating with cosmic dispensation for negligence. A gap that's too narrow will not fire hot enough. New plugs should be checked for correct gaps.
Post by: SpecialK on July 04, 2019, 06:24:39 PM
A gap that's too narrow will not fire hot enough. New plugs should be checked for correct gaps.
Maybe that explains the oily appearance? They weren't firing hot enough. I will use the gap tool to spread them to 0.7mm.
Any idea about the blank plugs in the relay box?
Thanks Laitch.
Post by: Laitch on July 04, 2019, 06:36:28 PM
I tried turning the rear wheel (by hand) with bike on the center stand in first gear but could not (with the plugs out so no compression). The pistons move though once I roll it and let the clutch out. Is it usually too hard to turn by hand?Which rotation direction were you tuning it, why didn't you try turning the wheel while the transmission was in a higher gear, and what was your objective? Debris from the cylinder head could have gotten sucked into the cylinder bores if you weren't a Tidy Timmy before your experiment.
Also, in the relay box under the tank, there is a white and a black pin connector that are not connected to anything (see photo). Where do these go? Accessories?They don't go anywhere. They're happy where they are. The largeer is an accessory plug that has both switched and unswitched power; the smaller can also be use for appropriate accessories or an alarm.
Post by: SpecialK on July 04, 2019, 06:44:04 PM
Which rotation direction were you tuning it, why didn't you try turning the wheel while the transmission was in a higher gear, and what was your objective? Debris from the cylinder head could have gotten sucked into the cylinder bores if you weren't a Tidy Timmy before your experiment.
I was turning forward. I didn't think to move to a higher gear, thought first would be easiest The objective was to make sure pistons were not froze up.
Post by: Laitch on July 04, 2019, 06:54:19 PM
I was turning forward. I didn't think to move to a higher gear, thought first would be easiest TYou never had a chance to roll it in gear before then? Regardless, all's well that ends well. Correctly gap the plugs. Are those new plugs?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 04, 2019, 09:23:44 PM
Spend some money on new plugs. NGK D7EA are about 3 bucks ay NAPA or Carquest/Advanced. The modern Bosch are made in India or Turkey or some such place. You will need the terminal nuts for them. Get those from a shop that repairs small engines.
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 06:52:42 AM
You never had a chance to roll it in gear before then? Regardless, all's well that ends well. Correctly gap the plugs. Are those new plugs?
I didn't think to roll it in gear to check piston movement, was more concerned with other things at the time. I will be getting new plugs today.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 08:35:52 AM
I will be getting new plugs today.
I screwed up, you need D7EA not the ones I mentioned. I have edited my original post.
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 08:37:45 AM
I screwed up, you need D7EA not the ones I mentioned. I have edited my original post.
First gear is the hardest to turn the engine from the rear wheel. On my bikes it's almost impossible. I put the transmission in 4th or 5th to turn the engine over with the rear wheel.
Spend some money on new plugs. NGK DR7EA are about 3 bucks ay NAPA or Carquest/Advanced. The modern Bosch are made in India or Turkey or some such place. You will need the terminal nuts for them. Get those from a shop that repairs small engines.
According to the EME website the NGK DR7EA is for K100 90-94 (although it does cross reference with Bosch X5DC) so do you know if it's good with the K100 1987? I like the term you use "terminal nuts", sound more accurate than "cap thingy" I have seen elsewhere.
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 08:46:42 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 10:06:05 AM
4 valve K bikes (late model 100 and 1100) have non-resister wires so they need resistor plugs. The correct NGK plug for those bikes is the DR7EA. I hope it is obvious that the "R" indicates a resistor plug. Terminal nuts is the NGK term for "cap thingies".
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 10:53:34 AM
Thanks
Post by: johnny on July 05, 2019, 12:32:27 PM
bosche xr7ldc... (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/superplus_designationcodes_10.pdf) 60+ thou miles and still look like the day they went in there...
boche.jpg (31.59 kB . 524x576 - viewed 623 times)its like each cylinder is double plugged by oak... if you needs to hoe shot... these will getts you down the road like a 4 holer...
doo your own doodillergence...
X5DC.png (20.52 kB . 721x477 - viewed 613 times) xr7ldc.png (13.26 kB . 639x390 - viewed 612 times)j o
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2019, 01:21:09 PM
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 01:23:09 PM
greetings...
bosche xr7ldc... (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/superplus_designationcodes_10.pdf) 60+ thou miles and still look like the day they went in there...
its like each cylinder is double plugged by oak... if you needs to hoe shot... these will getts you down the road like a 4 holer...
doo your own doodillergence...
j o
Thanks Johnny. Since my bike is the earlier 1987 2 valve K100RS, I went with the non-resistive equivalent to the Bosch X5DC which is the NGK D7EA.
Post by: billday on July 05, 2019, 06:10:41 PM
Terminal nuts is the NGK term for "cap thingies".
Terminal nuts is what I'm surrounded by.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 06:31:28 PM
Terminal nuts is what I'm surrounded by.
Hey! I resemble that remark.
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 08:30:50 PM
Having a hell of a time getting the new fuel pump, filter, and hoses in the tank. Try screwing on a hose clamp inside the tank with one hand! Any tricks?
Post by: daveson on July 05, 2019, 08:57:11 PM
Post by: Martin on July 05, 2019, 09:31:07 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2019, 09:44:20 PM
Try screwing on a hose clamp inside the tank with one hand! Any tricks?That's pretty much what must be done. daveson has accurately described the procedure. I use fuel injection hose clamps that are sized to fit the hose because they tighten more smoothly than the typical slotted band clamp. That helps when working one-handed. They also grip positively and don't damage the hose. Even BMW acknowledges in their service manual that people with large hands might need help from somebody with smaller hands to complete the procedure.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719214145.png)
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 10:08:42 PM
Patience, a long screw driver and grit your teeth. Make sure your tongue is not in the way.
Thanks Daveson, that pretty much describes what I did. Fortunately I had the long slotted screwdriver or else I would have had to go buy one.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 10:09:47 PM
And when it slips it doesn't punch a hole in your finger.
Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 10:17:38 PM
The only thing I could have done better was use a shorter piece of fuel line between the filter and the nipple to the fuel rail. It should be ok, not kinked or anything.
Tomorrow I can fit the tank back on, hook up the battery and module and see if it starts.........
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Post by: SpecialK on July 05, 2019, 10:26:46 PM
I use fuel injection line clamps like Laitch has posted that have a hex on the screw. A 1/4" drive ratchet with a long extension and a socket sized for the screw's hex makes tightening the clamps less frustrating since the socket stays on the screw a lot better than a screwdriver.
The clamps have the hex head and I thought of using a socket but I don't have the 1/4" with extension.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 06, 2019, 09:25:11 AM
The clamps have the hex head and I thought of using a socket but I don't have the 1/4" with extension.
!/4" drive is my tool of choice, I save the heavier artillery for the stuff it won't handle. I use it about twice as much as the other two sizes combined.
Harbor Freight has a 1/4" drive set with SAE and Metric sockets for under 20 bucks and a set of extensions for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" for something like $15.
Post by: Sheff928 on July 06, 2019, 11:04:28 AM
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00239A-Flexible-Extension-Piece/dp/B001223OF8
Kindest regards,
Kevin
Post by: SpecialK on July 06, 2019, 12:14:53 PM
So I will rest for now until I can try again later. The low (red) fuel light was on but the gauge read about 1/4 so There should be enough fuel.
Any ideas?
Thanks, John
Post by: Laitch on July 06, 2019, 12:57:22 PM
Any ideas?Two gallons is enough to start and run it. Check a spark plug after cranking. Is it wet or dry? If electrical connections are ok, you'll hear the pump run for a second or two when you release the starter button. If you don't hear it, reconnect the four-pin connector and verify that the fuel pump's fuse (#6 counting from the top) is ok. Verify the fuel filter is oriented in the correct direction. Verify that all hose connections are tight. Verify that the outside fuel hose to the rail is connected to the rearward tank port and the return hose is connected to the forward port. Verify that the plug wires are connected to the correct coils.
Post by: SpecialK on July 06, 2019, 02:54:31 PM
Two gallons is enough to start and run it. Check a spark plug after cranking. Is it wet or dry? If electrical connections are ok, you'll hear the pump run for a second or two when you release the starter button. If you don't hear it, reconnect the four-pin connector and verify that the fuel pump's fuse (#6 counting from the top) is ok. Verify the fuel filter is oriented in the correct direction. Verify that all hose connections are tight. Verify that the outside fuel hose to the rail is connected to the rearward tank port and the return hose is connected to the forward port. Verify that the plug wires are connected to the correct coils.
All good. I can hear the fuel pump and I double checked all the connections. As soon as I go get a turkey baster or syringe I am going to try 10cc of oil in each cylinder head for compression and check back later.
Post by: SpecialK on July 07, 2019, 03:03:51 PM
-Wires 1,2,3,4, are all correct to each cylinder.
-Gap set at .7mm
-fuel filter aligned correctly with "IN" towards the fuel pump meaning fuel coming from the pump is going to the "IN" side of the filter.
-All fuel hoses hooked up tight.
-bike in neutral with green light on.
-fuel level at 1/4 tank.
The plugs are the older Bosch X5DC so I am going to try the new NGK D7EA. Will need to get the terminal nuts.
Post by: Martin on July 07, 2019, 03:12:09 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on July 07, 2019, 03:27:00 PM
After failing to start, are the plugs wet or dry? Terminal nuts can sometimes be sourced from your local mower repair shop.
Regards Martin.
Thanks for the reply Martin. Plugs are wet and oily looking and were that way when I first took them out.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Sheff928 on July 07, 2019, 04:01:31 PM
Did you check for a spark when you turned the engine over?
Post by: SpecialK on July 07, 2019, 05:43:24 PM
That's the same image that you posted on page 2...
Did you check for a spark when you turned the engine over?
I did not do that yet. I have not worked on a K100 before so what is the procedure? I know on other bikes I have taken the plug out of the socket, put the cap back on and held the threads to the chassis while pressing the start button. Then you can see the spark across the gap.
Is this what you are referring to? Do you check all 4 this way?
Thanks for the input!
Post by: Martin on July 07, 2019, 06:13:17 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on July 07, 2019, 06:41:51 PM
The best way to do it, is to do one plug at a time and earth the plug being tested.
Regards Martin.
I will try this method, one at a time, while leaving the others in. The procedure is also described in Chapter 6 (11) "Ignition Fault Finding" in the Haines Manual.
Post by: Martin on July 07, 2019, 08:24:58 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 08, 2019, 12:22:22 PM
Following your check for spark, you might want to unplug the infamous four pin tank connector and crank the engine for about 10 seconds with the spark plugs installed to blow out any excess fuel. With any luck, it might just fire a couple times for you as the amount of fuel left in the cylinders is able to support combustion.
Then plug the tank back in and try starting with the throttle closed and no choke.
That you don't get a single fire from any cylinder makes me think it's not the coils as it's unlikely to have both coils fail at the same time. If there is no spark at all, the problem is probably in the ignition control unit or the wiring for the coils(most likely the ground).
Post by: SpecialK on July 08, 2019, 01:48:11 PM
Trying the simplest things first and using process of elimination seems the most logical way to go about it so the plugs spark and the suggestion by Gryphon to run the starter with the fuel pump unplugged would be a good place to start.
Cleaning electrical contacts or other electrical issues would be farther down the list and am hoping doesn't get to that. Hope it isn't something even more complex and costly like a fried injector module.
I am wondering if some of the 10 year old fuel could still be in the lines or the fuel rail? What about the injectors? Could the injectors be clogged from sitting so long?
Post by: Martin on July 08, 2019, 01:59:26 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on July 08, 2019, 03:02:21 PM
The lead tester cost me $10.00 Au and was a worthwhile investment as it can be used to check firing without removing the plugs. It had to be modified to use on NGK plugs.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin. The lead tester does sound like a worthwhile investment and can be used for the car also. I may not have to modify it for the NGK plugs because I was able to get the terminal nuts that fit into the BMW wire leads. Is this what you were referring to when you mentioned modification, because the NGK normally have a threaded tip?
Post by: Martin on July 08, 2019, 03:18:47 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on July 08, 2019, 11:02:40 PM
Tried the trick Johnny mentioned in "No Start" #1 rolling the bike in 3rd gear in reverse and popping the clutch for 3x. Also tried jumping it in 3rd gear rolling forward with no luck.
One strange thing I don't know if it has effect on the bike starting is it looks like someone messed with the ignition switch (see photo). The ignition is OFF in the ON position and has to be turned to the 3 O'clock position for ON. Looks like it was put in wrong but it doesn't seem to affect the ignition being turned on.
Everything is OFF
IMG_0002.JPG (36.94 kB . 768x576 - viewed 480 times)Everything is ON in start position
IMG_0003.JPG (39.06 kB . 768x576 - viewed 503 times)
Post by: Sheff928 on July 09, 2019, 05:23:33 AM
Have you pulled the injectors and checked for fuel delivery?
One thing you might do quite easily is check if the plugs smell of petrol. That's the proper term I believe... :-D
If not then you have a fuel delivery problem and it could be that your injectors and/or fuel rail are blocked. Can you remove the injectors from the head whilst leaving them connected to the rail and crank the bike to see if petrol is sprayed?
Kindest regards,
Kevin
Post by: natalena on July 09, 2019, 07:14:32 AM
One strange thing I don't know if it has effect on the bike starting is it looks like someone messed with the ignition switch (see photo). The ignition is OFF in the ON position and has to be turned to the 3 O'clock position for ON. Looks like it was put in wrong but it doesn't seem to affect the ignition being turned on.
Seems the key in vertical orientation is normal, at least on mine it is.
Getting accustomed to the flat part of the key (BMW emblem) being pointed towards the label is an easy fix, and the key folds flat against the dash when in "on." I wouldn't worry about it. Cheers
Post by: SpecialK on July 09, 2019, 08:25:18 AM
That's good news :-)
Have you pulled the injectors and checked for fuel delivery?
One thing you might do quite easily is check if the plugs smell of petrol. That's the proper term I believe... :-D
If not then you have a fuel delivery problem and it could be that your injectors and/or fuel rail are blocked. Can you remove the injectors from the head whilst leaving them connected to the rail and crank the bike to see if petrol is sprayed?
Kindest regards,
Kevin
I mentioned this a few posts back. It was one of my first concerns/questions since I bought the bike used and it had been sitting for 10+ years with petrol in the tank and a rotten fuel pump I had to replace. I have not noticed a petrol smell on the plugs or in the cylinder heads so I am suspect that maybe fuel delivery is the problem.
Thanks Kevin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 09, 2019, 09:51:45 AM
The key position is correct. The folding key has a triangle pointer molded in the plastic under the BMW roundel. when the key is folded it will point at the correct position on the label.
Post by: SpecialK on July 09, 2019, 12:47:09 PM
First, to answer your question about 10 year old fuel in the injectors plugging them. Do bears use Charmin? It would be a very good thing to have the injectors cleaned. They could either be stuck closed or open. In any event cleaning them will get the bike running properly faster than trying to run the bike with fuel system cleaner in the fuel.
The key position is correct. The folding key has a triangle pointer molded in the plastic under the BMW roundel. when the key is folded it will point at the correct position on the label.
Gryphon do you have any experience taking the rail out and testing the injectors? I saw a video where the injectors were attached to the rail pulled out from the bike and the guy was pressing start with the injectors spraying into a pan. Is that a way to test them and is the process taking them off involved?
In another post I had mentioned a source I found Mr. Injector will do them for $17.50 each.
About the key, funny how you miss little things. I did see how it folds so that is how it is used so it points to the right position. It actually shows that in the K100 Riders Manual but I am so used to using a key in the upright position that when in that position it points to ON when it is OFF, and to the 3 o'clock position when it is ON. I think I will fold it from now on so I feel better.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Martin on July 09, 2019, 02:06:16 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on July 09, 2019, 05:48:52 PM
Gryphon do you have any experience taking the rail out and testing the injectors? I saw a video where the injectors were attached to the rail pulled out from the bike and the guy was pressing start with the injectors spraying into a pan. Is that a way to test them and is the process taking them off involved?
I am certain I will not be trying this.
It would be a very good thing to have the injectors cleaned. They could either be stuck closed or open. In any event cleaning them will get the bike running properly faster than trying to run the bike with fuel system cleaner in the fuel.
more likely will try this.
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2019, 09:45:48 AM
. . . or more importantly damage to your Brick.:giggles
Post by: SpecialK on July 11, 2019, 05:08:29 PM
I popped the rail off first then vacuumed around each injector then grabbed each injector with a channel lock plier with a rag wrapped around so as not to scratch the injector. I felt like a dentist trying to pull a wisdom tooth but they all came out without too much trouble.
Cleaned the rail with carb cleaner. There was a little old gas varnish in there but looked like the gas I put in was getting through. It was not clogged.
Called Mr. Injector and he explained the procedure to me. $17.50 X 4 = $70 + $15.00 Priority flat rate small box both ways = $85 so off they go tomorrow. Should have them back in about 10 days.
Not much to do until then.
Rail and injectors
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Electrical connectors with rag over injector ports
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 11, 2019, 11:46:33 PM
Post by: Scott_ on July 12, 2019, 06:23:27 AM
Post by: SpecialK on July 12, 2019, 07:31:52 AM
You also have that time to get new rubber caps for the vac ports.. even without my glasses I can see that the one on #1 is cracked and split.
Thanks Scott. Can you explain where the vac ports are? I don't see that terminology in the Haines manual.
Post by: SpecialK on July 12, 2019, 07:35:28 AM
You now have 10 days to pull the throttle bodies and check for cracks in the rubber bushings above and below them. Any cracks will allow air leaks that will mess up the running of the engine.
Is this what you are referring to Gryphon? Thanks.
Plunum Chamber.png (67.9 kB . 716x576 - viewed 625 times) Intake Stub.png (66.77 kB . 716x576 - viewed 613 times)Post by: Laitch on July 12, 2019, 08:07:36 AM
Is this what you are referring to Gryphon? Thanks.These are them.Can you explain where the vac ports are? I don't see that terminology in the Haines manual.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120719080354.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on July 12, 2019, 08:19:11 AM
Can you explain where the vac ports are? I don't see that terminology in the Haines manual.Haynes, p.147. Sometimes imagination, extrapolation or translation need deployment. :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120719081726.png)
Post by: SpecialK on July 12, 2019, 09:55:07 AM
Haynes, p.147. Sometimes imagination, extrapolation or translation need deployment. :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120719081726.png)
Of course! Needed to extrapolate 4 more pages down. Those don't look too dificult to replace. :beer:
Post by: SpecialK on July 12, 2019, 09:59:02 AM
These are them.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120719080354.jpeg)
Very helpful Laitch thank you.
Post by: SpecialK on July 18, 2019, 10:33:28 AM
Post by: SpecialK on July 22, 2019, 06:15:47 PM
"Hi John,
Your injectors arrived and have been serviced. They had some flow loss and pattern irregularities, two of them were stuck, but they cleaned up perfectly so if you continue to have problems you can rule out injectors as the cause. There will be a full flow report in the package. "
I'm not sure if this was the sole cause of the engine not starting, he said it should have at least sputtered, but apparently they were badly in need of service so I am glad I got it done.
Post by: SpecialK on July 24, 2019, 01:59:41 PM
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: SpecialK on July 24, 2019, 05:29:21 PM
greetings...I'll see if my grandaughter has some lying around. If not I'll use Fuschia.
i use gothic black nail polish from five below...
j o
Post by: SpecialK on July 27, 2019, 02:10:36 PM
Received injectors back on Thursday 7/25 from Mr Injector. The report said that 2 had no pattern and 0 flow, and the other two had bad pattern and a flow of 30. All injectors cleaned up and functioned 100%. The CC/Min after cleaning for all 4 was 160cc.
I first used a q-tip and cleaned the ports in the cylinder head. There was some black residue in there probably from the old o-rings. I then placed all injectors in the rail after lubing the o-rings, put the holding clips on, and inserted the assembly into the ports gently wiggling and tapping with a rubber mallet. Then put the wire clips and wires back on and connected the fuel lines.
Rolled the bike into the driveway and with nervous anticipation pressed the start button hoping to hear it fire to life after many years. No choke, the engine cranked for about 5 seconds and nothing. I figure the fuel had to get through the lines so I took a breath and tried again. This time I could hear it start to turn over so I kept the starter pressed for another 5-10 seconds and let go to a running engine. I gave it some gas and it reved right up (with smoke of course. I had added some oil to the cylinders a few weeks ago for compression). I let it run about 5 minutes and the smoke cleared up. I was surprised at how smooth it was, idling without any misfires at 1.5rpm and reving easily. So I guess the injector cleaning was the limiting factor in getting it started.
I turned it off for now until I can get ready for the next set of items to be looked after.
Can short video clips be uploaded and posted?
Post by: SpecialK on July 27, 2019, 02:22:29 PM
Here are some concerns:
-I initially drained the old coolant, refiled with 50% vinegar/water, drained again and filled back with water. I wanted to wait until I got the bike started so the pump could circulate the water, then I could drain and fill with 50/50 coolant.
-Also, now that the bike can warm up I need to change the oil and filter. Got the filter and wrench a couple weeks ago.
-Check and change air filter.
-Replace vac port caps ($2 each at MAX).
After taking care of the engine related items, I want to turn my attention to the brakes and fluid and then the drive train and splines, then take it for a short ride to see how everything is working.
There was some smoke coming out from underneath after it ran for a couple of minutes. There is some oily seepage around, not sure from where but I think maybe a gasket somewhere needs replacing. Anything I should be looking for?
Thanks.
Post by: Martin on July 27, 2019, 05:36:27 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 27, 2019, 07:42:16 PM
Can short video clips be uploaded and posted?Upload them to YouTube then post links to the videos here.
Post by: SpecialK on July 29, 2019, 08:15:06 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iehAobMlwhI&feature=youtu.be
Filled the radiator today. I drained the water I had in there and put 2800ml of 50/50 coolant while massaging the hose. That brought it near the top of the fill tube. Then I added to the overflow tank to the bottom line. Mine has the temperature sensor on the drain bolt so after screwing the bolt back in I attached the wire from the temp gauge.
Does this sound correct? After I start it again should I let it heat up for a while and look for the fan to come on or if any fluid is backing into the overflow tank?
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2019, 08:45:59 PM
Does this sound correct?Everything seems ready to go. Coolant when needed can be added to the reservoir. Keep the level between the Max and Min lines. With a 50:50 coolant mixture in hot weather like we've been having, the fan should activate intermittently in slow or stopped traffic. The overheat indicator should not light up. If you just let it idle in your driveway, the fan—if not seized—should turn on in 10–15 minutes or so. It will run briefly but intermittently until the moto is in motion.
I'm getting a prompt that your video is not available when I try to access it. Can you access it using the link in your post?
Post by: SpecialK on July 29, 2019, 10:02:02 PM
I'm getting a prompt that your video is not available when I try to access it. Can you access it using the link in your post?
Yes I can. I think because I posted "private" on youtube. I thought since I provided the link anyone on Motobrick could see it but I will re-post using "public" then copy the link again.
Try now. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iehAobMlwhI&feature=youtu.be
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2019, 11:27:09 PM
Post by: SpecialK on August 03, 2019, 03:04:34 PM
Took out the air filter today. It is a BMW Einsatz filter that looks like it was replaced just before the bike was stored. I didn't see any noticeable dirt (see photo). Save $44.
Also changing the oil today.
IMG_0001.JPG (66.19 kB . 768x576 - viewed 480 times) IMG_0003.JPG (84.65 kB . 768x576 - viewed 477 times)
Post by: Martin on August 03, 2019, 04:00:28 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: billday on August 03, 2019, 05:47:49 PM
Good on you for doing your own splines. It's a great relationship builder.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 03, 2019, 09:02:45 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 04, 2019, 12:04:06 AM
Air filters were one of the items that back in the '80's were mandated by the EPA to have service lives of 100,000 milesIn The Code of Federal Regulations, Protection of the Environment, Title 40, Parts 85 to 99, revised July 1, 1990, p.466, §86.428–80(e) indicates that air filters—among several other items—are not subject to emissions rules and their periodic change intervals are specified by the manufacturer's maintenance instructions. Their operating environment would probably be cited in those instructions, too, something like if operated in a dusty environment, inspect often, clean or replace when needed. Not that I'm trying to be contentious. :laughing1:
The size and quality of OEM filters is just engineering excess that serves the owner and the moto well. Maybe they got a deal on them at Big Lots during the engine's development phase.
:popcorm
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 04, 2019, 11:01:18 AM
In The Code of Federal Regulations, Protection of the Environment, Title 40, Parts 85 to 99, revised July 1, 1990, p.466, §86.428–80(e) indicates that air filters—among several other items—are not subject to emissions rules and their periodic change intervals are specified by the manufacturer's maintenance instructions. Their operating environment would probably be cited in those instructions, too, something like if operated in a dusty environment, inspect often, clean or replace when needed. Not that I'm trying to be contentious. :laughing1:
The size and quality of OEM filters is just engineering excess that serves the owner and the moto well. Maybe they got a deal on them at Big Lots during the engine's development phase.
:popcorm
Looks like I'm a little behind the curve. When I was in the industry back in the '80's there was a lot more covered. The idea being that any part of the engine operating systems that could affect emissions or efficiency would have to function for the "useful life"(approximately 100,000 miles at the time) with no owner/operator intervention. This meant that tune ups and part replacement were not required for that period.
The manufacturers and dealers didn't like the idea that their vehicles wouldn't require lucrative dealer servicing and tune ups. To that end, they continued establishing service schedules, but they were mostly just inspections of the underhood stuff for damage. I pretty much got out of the business in 1988, so stopped getting the industry journals and my legal knowledge stopped being updated. Since then, I have owned 15 automobiles. Not one of them had any maintenance beyond oil changes in the first 100,000 miles. All but the recently purchased vehicles went to beyond 200,000 miles, with 6 of them going beyond 350,000. I had a Honda Accord that went 300,000 miles on the original spark plugs.
Modern automobiles are amazingly maintenance free, mostly because of government mandates. A lot of that engineering philosophy has carried over to our bikes and, legislated or not, it shows in the air filters.
Post by: SpecialK on August 04, 2019, 06:20:21 PM
With a 50:50 coolant mixture in hot weather like we've been having, the fan should activate intermittently in slow or stopped traffic. The overheat indicator should not light up. If you just let it idle in your driveway, the fan—if not seized—should turn on in 10–15 minutes or so. It will run briefly but intermittently until the moto is in motion.
First time I am testing the radiator, pump, thermostat, and fan after filling it with 50:50 Prestone coolant. I have not let the bike run more that a minute or two until now.
Started the bike and let it run on idle until the fan came on. It came on after about 20 minutes and the temp. gauge was around 3/4. The fan would stay on for about 40 seconds until the gauge went down between 1/2 and 3/4 and then it would shut off. Everything seems to be working correctly and no leaks anywhere, Now that it's warm I will change the oil.
https://youtu.be/1XMZo84noXE
Changed the oil. Looks like all the previous servicing was at BMW or the guy bought OEM parts. Filter was BMW. I went to Advance Auto and they cross referenced the filter and wrench, 76mm. Total was around $12. Has the same rubber washer as the OEM.
IMG_0005.JPG (55.17 kB . 768x576 - viewed 708 times)
Post by: SpecialK on August 05, 2019, 06:37:05 PM
Hope that works.
:bmwspinn
Forgot to mention; the rear brake is not working. There is fluid in the reservoir but the shoes aren't grabbing. Could be a frozen caliper? Open to suggestions.
Thanks.
Post by: SpecialK on August 06, 2019, 05:51:16 PM
-I need to remove the instrument cluster (K100RS). Speedo is not working. Do I need to remove the entire fairing or just the black panel behind the cluster, or the windscreen?
-The right mirror casing has some scratches and when I removed it, there was a white wire and plug, and another brown wire that was just hanging there with a bare end. The front signals are not working.
-Foot brake not working. Frozen caliper piston?
Thanks!
:johnny I have to admit, I am very nervous about riding this bike. I got my motorcycle license about 40 years ago and had a CB360 and a Kawasaki SR650 for just a year or two so I didn't put a lot of street miles on and have not ridden much since except about 8 years ago when the bike bug got me and I restored a GPZ750 and then a R75/5. I only rode those around for a few miles and had to get used to the feel and weight. So I do not consider myself an experienced rider.
Now I have the K100RS that is 558lbs and seat height of 32" so I can't touch the ground flat footed and am having some trouble pushing the bike around when seated. This is not a machine to be taken lightly. I don't think it wise for me to go out on a "highway" and intend on staying on smaller local roads for now.
Post by: TommyT on August 06, 2019, 06:22:15 PM
Forgot to mention; the rear brake is not working. There is fluid in the reservoir but the shoes aren't grabbing. Could be a frozen caliper? Open to suggestions.I would bet it is frozen, after 10 years of no use and old brake fuild likes moisture, there is probably a little rust on the puck.
Thanks.
Post by: SpecialK on August 06, 2019, 06:26:29 PM
I would bet it is frozen, after 10 years of no use and old brake fuild likes moisture, there is probably a little rust on the puck.
Thanks for the reply. Would you suggest bleeding the line then removing the caliper and try to get the puck to move?
Post by: TommyT on August 06, 2019, 07:32:15 PM
Thanks for the reply. Would you suggest bleeding the line then removing the caliper and try to get the puck to move?Well, I have not done this to a K bike, but I used to a long time ago buy old 911 Porsches that usually sat a long time. I would take the caliper off, lock down one side of the caliper with small clamp or large stainless hose clamp and apply a little air pressure into the caliper until the unlocked puck/piston would pop out. I would gently clean rust off the piston and the bore in the caliper. I would put in new seals and dust boots on before I would repeat this on the other piston. Be very careful with the air pressure, the first time I did it in over did it and the piston come out a lot faster then I wanted.
You could try taking the wheel and disk off the bike and put a thin screw driver in between the pads and use the brake lever to push the pads out some and then push them back all the way and then pump them back out with the screw driver in between the pads again. If the pads do not move then go try the method above to do a full clean up of the brake pistons.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 06, 2019, 07:38:14 PM
Post by: SpecialK on August 07, 2019, 10:07:48 PM
Tested the bike around the block today. Shifted well and felt smooth but the speedometer is not working. I did a search and saw Frankenduck's solution to pull off the cluster, remove the 9 screws and pull the pin connector off then clean the pins, deoxit, and put back.
Hope that works.
I took the instrument cluster out to clean the pins on the speedometer cable. I am assuming that the pins are the three on the ribbon cable in the photo. They looked clean but I cleaned them anyway.
Could there be other reasons the speedo is not working like the connection down at the rear wheel? I'm not sure where to go from here with the instrument cluster. Removing the speedo from the cluster starts getting tricky.
The trip counter does not zero out. The tens place number doesn't turn. That also looks tricky to get out and not sure if it can be fixed or if replacements are available.
The nob for the trip counter was not put in properly from a job by the PO. I have some service records that show the glass was defogged and a couple lights replaced in the early 90's. Anyway, there was a spring and a circlip off the nob but I figured out how it goes back together.
Any help for the speedometer issue would be appreciated before I put it back together.
Thanks.
Speedo 3 pin cable
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Main harness pins look clean
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Thumb wheel from inside with circlip back on
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: daveson on August 07, 2019, 10:43:46 PM
Post by: SpecialK on August 07, 2019, 10:50:09 PM
Those three pins were rusty on my non working speedo when I got my brick. I cleaned them, which fixed the problem, but only temporarily. I did it again, but also gave them a slight twist, to make for a tighter connection, which fixed the problem.I may twist them a little too, just to make sure they are snug. Thanks
Post by: Laitch on August 08, 2019, 01:13:30 AM
I am assuming that the pins are the three on the ribbon cableWhat's to assume? You're working from a photo with good resolution and clear labeling.
Here are more photos and text, this time concerning the odometer (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=9471.0)—a part the gears of which seem subject to deterioration. As recommended by the text's author, don't be a nancy, :laughing1: although, at the time of the post, he was a bit of a nancy when referring to himself as a kid even though he was eligible for service in the armed forces, was gainfully employed and likely ready to attempt reproduction at the drop of a pint. Adulthood can be scary, I'll grant him that. Of course, we really will never know the gender behind that post.
Anyway, also remove the sensor from the rear drive and clean it, if you have a screwdriver of the right type.
There's always this outfit (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6356.0) for resolution at the end of the day.
Post by: billday on August 08, 2019, 06:52:25 AM
Forgot to mention; the rear brake is not working. There is fluid in the reservoir but the shoes aren't grabbing. Could be a frozen caliper? Open to suggestions.
Thanks.
Caliper rebuild is not difficult to do. Search my posts for a pretty recent write-up.
ETA: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12182.msg107307.html#msg107307
Post by: SpecialK on August 09, 2019, 07:37:42 PM
After putting everything back together I tested it by putting it in 2nd gear on the center stand and turning the throttle. I got it up to 20mph and then backed off. The odometer also ticked to the next digit so all seems good for now. I got away easy on that one.
Now on to the rear brakes.
Post by: SpecialK on August 10, 2019, 12:15:57 PM
I believe the MC is shot due to the fact I could not pump any fluid out the rear hose and the corrosion in the photo. I was able to blow air through the rubber brake hose but that will probably need replacement too. There is some corrosion from brake fluid on the inside of the footrest bracket.
MAX BMW has the 13mm master cylinder for about $150. EME has a rebuild kit for $65 https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/bmckit438.htm
Has anybody tried the rebuild kit? Is it a PITA and do you need any special tools (and patience)? Maybe better to buy the new one?
fullsizeoutput_382c.jpeg (29.81 kB . 768x562 - viewed 570 times) fullsizeoutput_382a.jpeg (34.13 kB . 708x576 - viewed 609 times) fullsizeoutput_3829.jpeg (79.75 kB . 768x536 - viewed 605 times)Is there any way to remove the BMW crimp on hose clamps without destroying hoses? How does one loosen them to get over the nipple?
fullsizeoutput_382e.jpeg (56.42 kB . 768x566 - viewed 615 times)Another unrelated question. I see many hex bolts with a dab of green paint. Is that from the dealer from previous work or maybe it has anti-seize?
fullsizeoutput_3828.jpeg (50.81 kB . 621x576 - viewed 632 times) fullsizeoutput_382f.jpeg (53.89 kB . 509x576 - viewed 628 times)Oh by the way, I can't get any emoticons to insert. I was able at first but now I get a popup window and everything is ?.
Thanks for your help
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2019, 12:56:35 PM
I can't get any emoticons to insert. I was able at first but now I get a popup window and everything is ?.We had emoticarnage here through July—emoticons disappearing then reappearing for some members but not for others. Some of the images have been relabeled so if they were in a previous post before their relabeling, now only the text of the image's former label appears. Like with global warming, we'll just need to adapt then die.
Concerning the rear brake cylinder, TMG and Martin have installed inexpensive brake cylinders made in the PRC. They seem to be having excellent results with them. You could join the ranks. Here is the original post describing the adaptation made by Young Engineer (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=9364.0). Read through it. Since then, TMG and Martin have added more information in other posts, too.
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2019, 02:18:44 PM
Is there any way to remove the BMW crimp on hose clamps without destroying hoses? How does one loosen them to get over the nipple?Those clamps are called Oetiker clamps. They are considered one-time use only. I used side cutters on the pinched tab to cut them loose and didn't damage the hose to which they were attached. I replaced mine with lined nut-and-bolt style but lined worm-drive clamps will work, and many just use plain old hose clamps. The drawback with common perforated clamps is their perforations might damage hoses but you shouldn't be tightening those clamps with a vein-popping strain anyway. :laughing4-giggles:
I see many hex bolts with a dab of green paint. Is that from the dealer from previous work or maybe it has anti-seize?
The green paint might have been part of a St. Patrick's Day motif but more likely it was somebody's way of keeping track of something. We'll never know. My moto has no green dabs.
Post by: volador on August 10, 2019, 02:24:39 PM
Oh by the way, I can't get any emoticons to insert.
We're not missing anything, man. Those bloody emoticons are overrated.
Some hipster probably invented those things and we need to embrace, adapt and use or it's seen as something lacking to get your thought or remark across.
You have a low mileage MC which will easily clean up with some degreaser or whatever your preferred environmentally friendly cleaner.
Use some fine grade Scotchguard to clean cylinder bore if need be.
The kit is a simple fix. One 3mm retaining screw and the piston literally pops right out.
Pre-soak the kit piston in brake fluid to get the rubber pliable.
Pack the replacement accordion cup/rubber boot with some grease to prevent future crud intrusion.
I use standard plumbers high temp grease found at the local plumbing supply or Home Depot, etc..
More MC info
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=291.0
Oetiker clamp are usually 1 and done use. You may try using needlenose pliers, O-ring remover, a pick or scriber to loosen but its difficult.
A sharp pair of cutters is best for removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weQu8GrHALg
BMW recommended oetiker clamp replacement 17111460862
(https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/NotesParts/17111460862_3_B.jpg?rnd=1728011)
Post by: volador on August 10, 2019, 02:39:34 PM
Concerning the master cylinder, TMG and Martin have installed inexpensive master cylinders made in the PRC.
If your hanging at the yacht club or lounging in a hammock sipping cool drinks with plenty of spare time on your hands and feeling extra mechanical
that Chi-com MC could be your next project. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Martin on August 10, 2019, 04:13:36 PM
Another couple of uses for silicone grease is to smear it around electrical connectors to stop the ingress of water air and road crud. And I am still on my 21 year old fork seals which has had silicone grease packed under the dust covers. Every couple of years I clean out the grease and renew it, if you are riding in dusty conditions I would do it more frequently.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 10, 2019, 05:31:52 PM
Post by: SpecialK on August 12, 2019, 02:23:01 PM
Will try this afternoon when I get home.
6:45PM----Ok, took the 3mm screw out but nothing is coming out of the cylinder. Is the piston and spring supposed to pop out easily? I tried gently tapping, pulling etc. but nothing coming out. I set it in some cleaner for now to see if things loosen up. I don't want to start grabbing things with the needle nose for fear of marring.
Post by: Laitch on August 12, 2019, 09:18:37 PM
Ok, took the 3mm screw out but nothing is coming out of the cylinder. Is the piston and spring supposed to pop out easily?The piston of a brake cylinder manifesting the condition you have described is unlikely to "pop out". If you're using a brake cleaning compound as a soak, you're on the right track but it might take soaking in Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or some other elixir to work through the corrosion. Judicious use of compressed air into its inlet might move it out after its soak. A bicycle pump might generate enough pressure if attached well-sealed. Point the cylinder at something that will cushion the piston, absorb its impact, and keep it in the neighborhood when it releases. Remember to use eye protection—perhaps fabricating something out of leather seat covers. Safety glasses and patience should be enough though.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120819211501.png)
Post by: SpecialK on August 12, 2019, 10:02:29 PM
Remember to use eye protection—perhaps fabricating something out of leather seat covers. Safety glasses and patience should be enough though.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-120819211501.png)
They sell those at AutoZone.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 13, 2019, 12:18:06 AM
Post by: Laitch on August 13, 2019, 08:40:31 AM
. . . you can dissolve the crystallized brake fluid . . .Things are looking up, SpecialK! You might have this sorted one way or the other soon.
Post by: SpecialK on August 14, 2019, 09:20:32 PM
If the master cylinder is off of the bike and disconnected from the brake line, you can dissolve the crystallized brake fluid by a short soak in hot water. After the parts separate, dry them off and blow any remaining water off with compressed air.
I soaked the parts in soapy hot water but nothing was coming apart. I ended up putting the housing in a vice and clamping a channel lock plier onto the plunger end and turning. After much marring and trying to twist it finally started to turn and I could hear the spring turning but it took some twisting and tapping the pliers for it to come out. the inside of the cylinder looks clean but hard to tell. I am soaking for a while the see if it will clean up.
The plunger/spring looks good except the tip where the pliers scraped it up. How does it go back in though? does the other end where the hose screws in come out?
I think I have four options; get the retro fit from China, Buy the rebuild kit for $67, buy a whole new master cylinder assembly from MAX for $152, or try to reuse what I have.
Now that I am looking at the photos, the MC doesn't look to be in good condition so may have to go the Chinese or new OEM route:
fullsizeoutput_3833.jpeg (30.05 kB . 613x576 - viewed 512 times)Marred up tip. Not good. Little plate on the end of the plunger insert came off.
fullsizeoutput_3835.jpeg (26.94 kB . 676x576 - viewed 560 times)Is inserting to the left the only way for this to go in? The taper on the plunger bushings is against the grain.
fullsizeoutput_3834.jpeg (19.43 kB . 768x335 - viewed 547 times)Thanks for you help.
Post by: Laitch on August 14, 2019, 10:58:45 PM
Anyway, your rear brake cylinder parts are junk when viewed from where I sit on the porch of The Ridley Brook Butterfly and Hummingbird Preserve Gun Club. I recommend replacing the entire rear brake cylinder assembly and also replacing the brake fluid reservoir with a cylindrical container that can hang on a frame member beneath the right side cover away from the effects of sunlight on its integrity.
Post by: SpecialK on August 15, 2019, 01:03:51 PM
A moment of clarity has revealed to me that for a brake cylinder to be a master cylinder, it must control a slave cylinder.
Yes but if there is no slave then the Master is truly a Master. Maybe of his own destiny, or maybe he's the Master of the brake hose? Anyway, the Fiche calls it a rear brake master cylinder.
Rear Brake Master Cylinder.JPG (33.5 kB . 537x399 - viewed 551 times)Anyway, your rear brake cylinder parts are junk when viewed from where I sit on the porch of The Ridley Brook Butterfly and Hummingbird Preserve Gun Club. I recommend replacing the entire rear brake cylinder assembly and also replacing the brake fluid reservoir with a cylindrical container that can hang on a frame member beneath the right side cover away from the effects of sunlight on its integrity.
Those suggestions sound wise and in line with what I am planning. Thanks
Post by: Laitch on August 15, 2019, 01:12:15 PM
Yes but if there is no slave then the Master is truly a Master. Maybe of his own destiny, or maybe he's the Master of the brake hose?Nonsense. It's Germglish run amok.
Post by: SpecialK on August 22, 2019, 07:57:44 PM
Post by: SpecialK on August 30, 2019, 05:43:53 PM
I did check the wiring diagram but it is hard to see the color codes. Can someone tell me from the two photos what I need to do to reconnect and get working? Obviously one connector on the black wire is missing. Do I need to splice a new connector on?
Thanks.
Fairing wires
IMG_0002.JPG (38.7 kB . 768x576 - viewed 522 times)Wires from right unit
IMG_0004.JPG (77.99 kB . 768x576 - viewed 532 times)
Post by: johnny on August 30, 2019, 07:41:59 PM
that is not oe... are both the left and right side turn signals wiored the same...
no telling what has happened here... mirror mounted driving lights... could be anything...
you are gonna have to test those with a meter... key off key on flasher off flasher on... you getts the idear...
the mirror signal connector only slides in one way... its the white one...
the other connector... the black one... gonna have to trace those wiors back to the hot ground switch if any to figger that out...
j o
Post by: Laitch on August 30, 2019, 09:02:18 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-300819210002.png)
Post by: SpecialK on August 30, 2019, 10:46:30 PM
Blue/Black and Brown wires. Blue/black runs to the flasher unit, brown to ground.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-300819210002.png)
Thanks, mine was pixelated so I couldn't read it. It would seem then there should be a blue/black/brown connector on the blinker housing instead of a bare black wire and a brown wire with a connector.
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 09:48:57 AM
It would seem then there should be a blue/black/brown connector on the blinker housing instead of a bare black wire and a brown wire with a connector.
Thanks Laitch for the diagram. After further examining of the mirror/blinker assembly, I noticed a plug socket that takes the blue/black and brown wire. So the black and brown wires are extra and run to an inserted bulb installed by the PO (see photo). The bulb is not attached and is just laying in the housing so I can take it out easily. The blue/black/brown on the right, and blue/red/brown on the left were not plugged in when I removed the mirrors, just the extra white/brown wires running to the extra bulb were connected.
My two questions would be:
-What was the purpose of that extra bulb? Heat the mirror?
-Do I need to trace back and remove the extra white/grey leads that run into the fairing or can I just leave them there?
extra bulb
fullsizeoutput_3868.jpeg (42.36 kB . 768x576 - viewed 499 times)black/brown wire to extra bulb
fullsizeoutput_386a.jpeg (40.46 kB . 728x576 - viewed 493 times)fairing with stock blue/red/brown wire and extra white/grey wire
IMG_0003.JPG (40.41 kB . 768x576 - viewed 522 times)Post by: johnny on September 02, 2019, 10:07:23 AM
rodger that... i use heated grip elements to heat my mirrors...
[ Invalid Attachment ]
j o
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 10:25:52 AM
greetings...
rodger that... i use heated grip elements to heat my mirrors...
j o
So you think those little bulbs were to heat the mirrors? Much simpler system than yours.
Post by: johnny on September 02, 2019, 11:08:40 AM
of course... why else would somebody putts a heat source in there...
look... if you not running heated grips... heated mirrors... heated peggs... heated seat... and remote start in and abouts the hudson river watershed then you just whack...
j o
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 11:32:07 AM
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 01:57:46 PM
I hooked the blue/black/brown and blue/red/brown back up and now the turn signals work fine but I have no parking lights.
On another note, I was just trying to get the rear wheel off to check the splines. The caliper is off and now I am trying to break the (4) 17mm bolts that hold the rim on with no luck so far. I have a cheaper set of sockets and the extension started to twist. Should I get a better 17mm socket and a breaker bar or can the final drive unit be taken out with the tire on? I don't want to twist off any bolts.
Post by: johnny on September 02, 2019, 02:11:52 PM
you gotts the oe tool kit with the lug wrench and extension...
j o
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 02:23:43 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 02, 2019, 02:36:09 PM
I hooked the blue/black/brown and blue/red/brown back up and now the turn signals work fine but I have no parking lights.Come on now. You need to remove the wheel so you'll be able to put a new tire on it in the future. Are you going to drag the final drive along with you to get a tire mounted? That will provided amusement for the mechanic, certainly.
Should I get a better 17mm socket and a breaker bar or can the final drive unit be taken out with the tire on?
You need to learn how to remove seized bolts. Heat them with a heat gun or torch, add Liquid Wrench, rap on them with a hammer a few times, wait a couple of minutes then put the torque to them. A breaker bar or extension will help as johnny indicates.
The parking light wires are a grey-white wire and brown wire.
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 03:56:26 PM
Come on now. You need to remove the wheel so you'll be able to put a new tire on it in the future. Are you going to drag the final drive along with you to get a tire mounted? That will provided amusement for the mechanic, certainly.
The simplest solution worked as recommended by Johnny. I used the tool kit lug wrench with a short pipe.
Post by: SpecialK on September 02, 2019, 04:28:00 PM
See before and after cleaning photos:
Rear section before
IMG_0002.JPG (71.21 kB . 768x576 - viewed 519 times) IMG_0013.JPG (46.67 kB . 768x576 - viewed 495 times)Rear section after
IMG_0007.JPG (63.95 kB . 768x576 - viewed 475 times) fullsizeoutput_3874.jpeg (56.9 kB . 768x576 - viewed 481 times)Drive shaft section before
fullsizeoutput_3872.jpeg (40.85 kB . 624x576 - viewed 467 times) IMG_0004.JPG (45.59 kB . 768x576 - viewed 500 times)Drive shaft section after
fullsizeoutput_386d.jpeg (49.37 kB . 756x576 - viewed 493 times) fullsizeoutput_3870.jpeg (38.48 kB . 633x576 - viewed 527 times)Post by: johnny on September 02, 2019, 05:05:55 PM
i wept because i had no techron until I met a man who had no radials...
j o
Post by: SpecialK on September 07, 2019, 04:30:58 PM
I then proceeded to drain and bleed the front brakes with new fluid. These brakes were working when I bought the bike but I wanted to change the old brake fluid. After I started messing with bleeding I noticed brake fluid seeping from under the reservoir. Looks like a tear down and cleaning of the front brake cylinder is in order. According to the section Johnny posted on brakes and Frankenduck's comment, I may be able to get away with just cleaning instead of a rebuild.
So now most of the main issues are resolved and the bike is getting near inspection status.
Rebuilt Rear Cylinder
IMG_0009.JPG (57.11 kB . 768x576 - viewed 488 times)Old cylinder parts
fullsizeoutput_3882.jpeg (48.09 kB . 676x576 - viewed 481 times)
Post by: Martin on September 07, 2019, 05:40:42 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on September 07, 2019, 08:17:08 PM
The rear brake master cylinder is subjected to a lot of road crap and water. A boot in good condition is critical to it's well being. As an extra precaution and to stop corrosion, I pack thick silicone grease under the boot to stop the ingress of water and crap. As an aside it seems to stop the boot from degrading.
Regards Martin.
Hi Martin. I remember you saying this back a few weeks ago. Sounds like good PM for the cylinder. I noticed the new boot that came with the rebuild kit was quite a bit smaller than the original. I didn't know if I could get it over the cylinder but managed to. At first I thought maybe the old one was stretched out but I'm thinking maybe they made it fit tighter to prevent road crap from getting in.
Post by: Martin on September 07, 2019, 11:22:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on September 20, 2019, 10:33:51 AM
-New fuel pump, filter, float gauge, hoses.
-Cleaned tank
-Flushed and cleaned radiator. New fluid.
-Fuel injectors refurbished, fuel rail cleaned, new plugs gapped.
-Instrument cluster taken apart and pin connectors cleaned.
-Cleaned speed pulse sensor at the final drive and electrical connectors.
-Removed final drive. Cleaned and re lubed splines.
-Rebuilt rear master cylinder. Bleed rear and front brakes with new DOT 4 fluid.
-Took apart and cleaned rear calipers.
-Front turn signals were not working so removed and reconnected the wires. Removed some bulbs that were put in there for heat.
So now I will be reinstalling the lower fairing and knee pads and taking for a test ride. The weather has turned somewhat cooler and the days are shorter so work in the morning is limited.
If all checks out the bike will be ready for winter storage until next spring when new funds should provide the means for continued restoration.
Thanks, JT
Post by: SpecialK on October 21, 2019, 12:23:00 PM
I am going to be storing the bike soon for winter in my garage and resume work on it next spring. A friend who has had many bikes, and currently has a Harley Sportster and a Kawasaki ZRX, says that he uses Lucas Fuel Stabilizer. Anybody have experience with this or other products?
How late in the fall do folks ride? Or is anybody riding throughout the winter here in the Northeast?
Post by: Laitch on October 21, 2019, 12:39:25 PM
Post by: SpecialK on November 13, 2019, 07:43:45 PM
I have used STA-BIL fuel stabilizer for 20 years in 10% ethanol gasoline for motorcycle storage and all my chainsaws and brushcutters.
Do you fill the tank with fuel then use 1 oz. or 30ml per 2 1/2 gals. of STA-BIL like it says on the bottle? So you would use 60ml for 5 gals. tankfull?
Post by: SpecialK on November 13, 2019, 07:49:45 PM
Question: Does anyone use the Beltran Battery Tender and if so, what amperage? I was told by MAX to use less than 2 amps. I see they have a 750mA Tender Junior and a 1.25A Tender Plus.
I have the Westco 12V/30AH battery.
Thanks.
Post by: volador on November 13, 2019, 09:22:09 PM
Do you fill the tank with fuel then use 1 oz. or 30ml per 2 1/2 gals. of STA-BIL like it says on the bottle? So you would use 60ml for 5 gals. tankfull?
I put the lower fairing panels and the knee pads back on and ready for winter storage.
Question: Does anyone use the Beltran Battery Tender and if so, what amperage? I was told by MAX to use less than 2 amps. I see they have a 750mA Tender Junior and a 1.25A Tender Plus.
I have the Westco 12V/30AH battery.
Thanks.
Fill the tank with kerosene or 50/50 petrol/kerosene and run it through the fuel pump and injectors for the winter hibernation.
The moto petrol components will be well preserved during there slumber.
Put a cup of kerosene in the crankcase oil and run the moto to circulate kero through out the engine
Squirt some kerosene or Marvel Mystery oil or penetrating oil into each cylinder
0.75A-1.25A is optimal charging setting
Fully charge battery then remove negative ground wire from battery
No takers on the Craigslist?
Post by: SpecialK on November 13, 2019, 09:38:24 PM
No takers on the Craigslist?
Ha, you saw that ad? I put it up kinda high to see if there would be any response but nothing. I wasn't too surprised so I figured I will put it back up next spring. Give me more time to fix up a few things.
Post by: volador on November 13, 2019, 09:43:08 PM
Ha, you saw that ad? I put it up kinda high to see if there would be any response but nothing. I wasn't too surprised so I figured I will put it back up next spring. Give me more time to fix up a few things.Yeah man. No one is investing that kind of money in old K's.
Post by: SpecialK on November 13, 2019, 09:47:12 PM
It has a spring loaded cover that flips up.
fullsizeoutput_38d1.jpeg (53.99 kB . 603x576 - viewed 372 times)
Post by: volador on November 13, 2019, 10:00:22 PM
Its wired direct to the battery
Plug your battery charger into it if it has the Hella or Powerlet BMW type male end connector
https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Standard-BMW-Plug (https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Standard-BMW-Plug)
Post by: Martin on November 13, 2019, 11:52:21 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on November 14, 2019, 08:10:41 AM
Do you fill the tank with fuel then use 1 oz. or 30ml per 2 1/2 gals. of STA-BIL like it says on the bottle? So you would use 60ml for 5 gals. tankfull?Yes. I'd use 600ml for 50 gallons, 900ml for 75 gallons, 1200ml for 100 gallons, 6000ml for 500 gallons and 60,000ml for 5000 gallons. I'd keep a running total in my fuel log and Fuelly account. I would log and compare mileage with or without STA-BIL using ground speed, wind speed, temperature, load weight and atmospheric pressure as variables, too and include photos of baby animals encountered during field trials.
Post by: SpecialK on November 14, 2019, 10:14:07 AM
Yes. I'd use 600ml for 50 gallons, 900ml for 75 gallons, 1200ml for 100 gallons, 6000ml for 500 gallons and 60,000ml for 5000 gallons. I'd keep a running total in my fuel log and Fuelly account. I would log and compare mileage with or without STA-BIL using ground speed, wind speed, temperature, load weight and atmospheric pressure as variables, too and include photos of baby animals encountered during field trials.
Your strategies are admirable, I think I will mimic them.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 14, 2019, 10:27:55 AM
First, I do all the annual maintenance, splines, brakes, fluids, valves, etc. Then I fill the tanks with no-corn mixed with Stabil and Techron.
I'll apply a light coat of a corrosion protectent concentrating on the lower parts of the bike being careful not to get any on the brake rotors, I use the stuff from S100. This helps protect them from the puddles of saltwater that drips off the wife's car. I cover them with those lightweight $20 motorcycle covers I get on ebay to keep dust off.
Every couple weeks during the winter I'll go out and start them up, letting them run at fast idle with the transmission in first or second gear until the engine gets warm enough to cycle the fan. This charges the battery, gets rid of the condensation in the crankcase oil, and circulates the oil in the transmission and final drive.
I got a couple cheap $15 K bike trickle chargers on ebay that I'll plug in once in a while to see how the batteries are doing. They have an LED that goes from red to green when the battery is charged. I connect the charger to the power outlet above the coils. Usually the LED is green indicating a fully charged battery that isn't low enough to start charging. If I turn on the ignition and headlight, the LED turns red, and if it goes back to green in less than an hour or so, I am pretty sure the battery is fully charged, which means the battery is holding it's charge.
Last, and this may be a sign of a serious neurosis, but I check tire pressures once a month, and rotate the front tire a quarter turn to avoid having the weight on the same spot all winter. The first year I had my K75RT it sat for four months on a soft tire which made a flat spot that took a couple hundred miles to get rid of.
Post by: SpecialK on November 14, 2019, 10:35:01 AM
Power your electric jacket and undergarments from that outlet
Its wired direct to the battery
Plug your battery charger into it if it has the Hella or Powerlet BMW type male end connector
It looks like from the diagram that there are leads with ring connectors at the end. These go on the + and - battery posts? they are not on there now. There is a battery tender SAE plug connected to the battery but that's it.
This Merit plug can also be used in reverse, to charge or tend the battery? You would need the charger lead to have the Hella or Powerlet BMW type male end connector?
I have not seen a charger with that type male plug, only the SAE type.
BMW.JPG (30.02 kB . 521x378 - viewed 425 times)
Post by: SpecialK on November 14, 2019, 11:00:22 AM
Power your electric jacket and undergarments from that outletThanks for the link and PDF Volador. $12 is not bad for the 030-0111 plug. I guess I would have to cut off the SAE plug from the charger and screw the leads on the Hella plug.
Its wired direct to the battery
Plug your battery charger into it if it has the Hella or Powerlet BMW type male end connector
https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Standard-BMW-Plug (https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Standard-BMW-Plug)
Do any chargers come with the Hella or BMW Powerlet plug?
Post by: volador on November 14, 2019, 11:07:59 AM
Thanks for the link and PDF Volador. $12 is not bad for the 030-0111 plug. I guess I would have to cut off the SAE plug from the charger and screw the leads on the Hella plug.SAE to BMW plug
Do any chargers come with the Hella or BMW Powerlet plug?
https://www.batterymart.com/p-mb-map-motobatt-sae-to-din-adapter-cable.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-68_ojq5QIVibWzCh0-QAPjEAQYASABEgKKX_D_BwE (https://www.batterymart.com/p-mb-map-motobatt-sae-to-din-adapter-cable.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-68_ojq5QIVibWzCh0-QAPjEAQYASABEgKKX_D_BwE)
(https://www.batterymart.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/MB-MAP_fullsize_1000x1000.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 14, 2019, 11:10:02 AM
The problem is that the negative terminal doesn't have a good electrical connection to the connector.
Now I remove the connector and carefully solder the terminal to the connector after cleaning well with Deoxit and 600 grit paper. This is important because I use that power outlet for my trickle charger, and that bad connection makes the charger look like the battery is charged while preventing the charger from charging the battery.
Post by: volador on November 14, 2019, 11:45:08 AM
77 02 8 551 897 Removes the guessing with BMW male plug and additional battery connectors
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 14, 2019, 02:38:59 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Hella-BMW-Powerlet-Motorcycle-Automatic-Smart-Battery-12-V-Trickle-Charger/121917168976?hash=item1c62d45d50:g:xd4AAOSwu1VW3hcq
Post by: volador on November 14, 2019, 03:47:05 PM
This is what I use. Be aware that although they have worked well for me, the low price probably means it will set fire to your bike and make your hair fall out. Other posters here will confirm this warning and advise you to spend more money.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Hella-BMW-Powerlet-Motorcycle-Automatic-Smart-Battery-12-V-Trickle-Charger/121917168976?hash=item1c62d45d50:g:xd4AAOSwu1VW3hcq
Heed the warning of other posters and update your home owners insurance policy for Chi-com trickle chargers and order some Rogaine (https://www.amazon.com/Rogaine-Strength-Minoxidil-Solution-Treatment/dp/B0000Y8H3S)
Disclaimer: The product has been known to self destruct and in state of California emits radio frequencys hazardous to health
(https://comoto.imgix.net/blog_content_image/image/61405/gallery/garage.jpg?w=737&dpr=1&auto=format)
Post by: SpecialK on November 15, 2019, 08:33:09 AM
SAE to BMW plug
https://www.batterymart.com/p-mb-map-motobatt-sae-to-din-adapter-cable.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-68_ojq5QIVibWzCh0-QAPjEAQYASABEgKKX_D_BwE (https://www.batterymart.com/p-mb-map-motobatt-sae-to-din-adapter-cable.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-68_ojq5QIVibWzCh0-QAPjEAQYASABEgKKX_D_BwE)
(https://www.batterymart.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/MB-MAP_fullsize_1000x1000.jpg)
That is exactly what is needed. I think I will either get this, use the Merit socket with the Battery Tender Junior (750mA), or just use the Battery Tender Junior with the eyelet adaptor directly to the battery. Or just start the bike in the driveway once a month as Gryph says "Every couple weeks during the winter I'll go out and start them up, letting them run at fast idle with the transmission in first or second gear until the engine gets warm enough to cycle the fan. This charges the battery, gets rid of the condensation in the crankcase oil, and circulates the oil in the transmission and final drive". Thanks
Post by: SpecialK on November 15, 2019, 08:45:10 AM
(https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/NotesParts/77028551897_1_B.jpg?rnd=113535826)
77 02 8 551 897 Removes the guessing with BMW male plug and additional battery connectors
Wow, $193 list for that? I think I'll stick with the battery tender junior. It will connect directly to that SAE to BMW DIN adaptor you showed me.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 15, 2019, 09:25:55 AM
Wow, $193 list for that? I think I'll stick with the battery tender junior. It will connect directly to that SAE to BMW DIN adaptor you showed me.
Hey, what's $193??? Isn't your peace of mond worth it?
Post by: SpecialK on November 15, 2019, 10:39:17 AM
Is the wire that leads off the back hardwired into the battery leads? Looks like it goes up under the relay box somewhere. I can't trace it without removing the tank etc. so was hoping for a quick answer.
I don't see any wire going directly from the Merit plug to the battery terminals.
Now that I look at the part diagram, the wire is terminated with those little slip on flat connectors (not sure the name?) so would probably connect somewhere other than to the battery terminals.
I would think if is connected to the battery it would have power going to the plug and could be tested with my volt meter but the volt meter is dead right now. Can it be tested this way, by touching the inside of the plug wall - and to the + at the back of the plug?
Post by: Laitch on November 15, 2019, 11:29:51 AM
Now that I look at the part diagram, the wire is terminated with those little slip on flat connectors (not sure the name?) so would probably connect somewhere other than to the battery terminals.Those are called spade connectors.
I would think if is connected to the battery it would have power going to the plug. . .
The power socket is usually connected to fuse #4; that's the setup on my moto. Get yourself a cheap circuit tester with a 12V light bulb in it.
Post by: SpecialK on November 15, 2019, 12:44:45 PM
Those are called spadeYep. I need a new battery for mine then I can test.
Get yourself a cheap circuit tester with a 12V light bulb in it.
Post by: SpecialK on November 15, 2019, 10:16:38 PM
I think I will get the SAE/hella adapter and use the power socket to charge the battery. I can now remove the SAE plug and eyelets that are screwed to the battery terminals.
Post by: volador on November 16, 2019, 01:40:44 AM
Got my voltage tester working and tested the power socket. First I tried to test it by inserting the + probe straight in but it hit the side and shorted out blowing the 15amp fuse. I pulled the connector off the back of the power socket an stuck the + and - probes directly into the white connector. It read 2.5 on the lower scale which calculates to 12.5 volts.
I think I will get the SAE/hella adapter and use the power socket to charge the battery. I can now remove the SAE plug and eyelets that are screwed to the battery terminals.
Just to confirm was that fuse #4 or #5 from the top?
Post by: SpecialK on November 16, 2019, 08:26:33 AM
Just to confirm was that fuse #4 or #5 from the top?It was #4.
Post by: SpecialK on January 12, 2020, 09:22:02 PM
Today, 1/12/20, it was 69 degrees here in the Hudson Valley so a perfect day to get the bike outside (how many from the northeast went out riding today? I saw quite a few bikers around this weekend). It is not registered right now so I just started the bike up and let it run up to temperature, about 20 minutes. The battery was strong and it stared with half choke in just a few seconds. So now it goes back in the garage until the next warm spell then spring in two months!
Post by: SpecialK on March 27, 2020, 05:05:04 PM
Now I want to get some details finished up on the bike before the summer hot weather.
Has anyone had the rear wheel BMW hubcap clip break off? I didn't realize after I took the wheel off last fall that there was a brass metal clip in the hub. The cap wouldn't stay on and then I realized it broke off from the brass clip. I don't see the caps on MAX BMW so looks like I'll have to glue it.
Any ideas?
Post by: Laitch on March 27, 2020, 05:19:00 PM
The cap wouldn't stay on and then I realized it broke off from the brass clip. I don't see the caps on MAX BMW so looks like I'll have to glue it.MAX BMW is good but it isn't the only place to look and if you wait too long, this (https://www.beemerboneyard.com/36132311276.html) will be gone.
Any ideas?
Post by: SpecialK on March 27, 2020, 06:16:40 PM
I glued the clip back on. We'll see if it holds.
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Post by: SpecialK on March 27, 2020, 06:18:47 PM
It doesn't have the BMW logo like the one I have.
I glued the clip back on. We'll see if it holds.
I just noticed that one is for three spoked wheel.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2020, 07:18:52 PM
To make a nice job of it, I would countersink the hole so the head of the rivet is flush with the surface, and then hide it behind a roundel like the cage wheels have.
Post by: SpecialK on March 27, 2020, 07:26:32 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2020, 09:19:18 PM
Great idea! You must have been out this spring with all the 50+ days we've had here in NY.
Absolutely! I put almost three tanks of gas through Ilsa, the red K75 in January and February. So far in March, all I've been able to do is about another 150 miles for a total of nearly 800 miles since Christmas. Not a bad winter. There are snowmobile trails around here that never saw a sled this past winter.
Post by: Laitch on March 28, 2020, 10:25:57 AM
It doesn't have the BMW logo like the one I have.Right. The one I posted is for three-spoke wheels because I didn't check your wheels. What did you use for "glue"?
I glued the clip back on. We'll see if it holds.
Post by: volador on March 28, 2020, 11:20:34 AM
Right. The one I posted is for three-spoke wheels because I didn't check your wheels. What did you use for "glue"?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5332-280320112003-29081848.jpeg)
Post by: SpecialK on March 28, 2020, 01:14:31 PM
Right. The one I posted is for three-spoke wheels because I didn't check your wheels. What did you use for "glue"?
I used an epoxy. It is very tight and it clipped back on no problem. We'll see when I have to pop it off again.
Post by: Laitch on March 28, 2020, 01:17:13 PM
I used an epoxy. It is very tight and it clipped back on no problem. We'll see when I have to pop it off again.Which brand and type?
Post by: SpecialK on March 28, 2020, 03:21:51 PM
Which brand and type?
Sorry, it was actually Gorilla Super Glue in a small tube. I coated the plastic hub cap and then the brass clip and let it sit overnight.
Post by: Laitch on March 28, 2020, 03:24:50 PM
Sorry, it was . . .Thanks for the followup.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2020, 03:39:01 PM
I used an epoxy. It is very tight and it clipped back on no problem. We'll see when I have to pop it off again.
You may not have to pop it off next time. Heat, vibration, and bumps will probably do it for you.
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2020, 03:46:39 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: SpecialK on March 28, 2020, 06:15:31 PM
To be honest I'd follow Gryph's suggestion with a slight variation, rivet with a washer under the head. Then cover the rivet with a BMW car badge of the appropriate size and countersink the back of the badge to accommodate the rivet head. Glue can degrade and let go, and those wheel caps are getting harder to find.
Regards Martin.
I don't have a rivet gun. It is a cheap design, no? BMW should have had them one hex bolt in the center, screw on, or make them aluminum with little snap on clips around the edge.
Bean counters!
Post by: SpecialK on March 28, 2020, 06:19:53 PM
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2020, 06:25:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2020, 06:47:54 PM
Everyone should have a rivet gun, I don't know how you have managed to cope in the world without one. 177381You need to rectify this situation immediately.https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-set-38353.html :superhappy
Regards Martin.
Dang Martin, you beat me to it. Unless that riveter is a really shitty knockoff of my Ace Hardware one, it should last at least 10 years. That's how long I've had mine which looks EXACTLY like it and comes from China too.
In any event, that tool is about 1/4 what a used hub cover is going to cost, and someday your fan is going to crap out and you'll need the riveter to fasten a Spal into the old fan housing.
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2020, 07:18:03 PM
Regards Martin with too much time on his hand.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2020, 08:34:50 PM
Post by: SpecialK on March 28, 2020, 09:18:23 PM
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2020, 10:08:11 PM
Regards Martin with way too much time on his hand.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2020, 10:13:05 PM
Post by: SpecialK on April 05, 2020, 04:48:15 PM
So today I pulled the two bags out and in one was the following (see photos)
-Rukka one piece rain suit size 46
-Krypto cable lock
-A Hella plug looks like for a heated jacket or similar accessory
-2 extra rain pants and a woman's rain parka
-Safesport blow up item, orange. Not sure what it is
-Helmet and glove liners
The bags are in great shape so time to polish them up and put them back on the bike.
1761AB40-950E-4470-82DE-A1F8E907EDD4.jpeg (63.95 kB . 768x576 - viewed 432 times)Rukka suit
05A7F0B3-1B39-4F4C-AF01-93E696768F8A.jpeg (86.28 kB . 768x576 - viewed 522 times)Krypto lock
69C87A8C-B179-45F9-B396-2218518FF5A3.jpeg (92.65 kB . 768x576 - viewed 544 times)Hella plug
6061E095-9329-47B2-A0AD-3132F1A6A92B.jpeg (41.24 kB . 768x576 - viewed 531 times)Safesport
0798644A-C7CE-44A7-9374-5B02BCA8599C.jpeg (67.57 kB . 768x576 - viewed 505 times)Other stuff
Post by: volador on April 05, 2020, 05:21:18 PM
When I got the bike last summer it had the two side cases in excellend shape, along with some riding gear and miscellaneous stuff that I didn't bother to go though at the time.Great find
So today I pulled the two bags out and in one was the following (see photos)
-Rukka one piece rain suit size 46
-Krypto cable lock
-A Hella plug looks like for a heated jacket or similar accessory
-2 extra rain pants and a woman's rain parka
-Safesport blow up item, orange. Not sure what it is
-Helmet and glove liners
The bags are in great shape so time to polish them up and put them back on the bike.
A hobbit can use the Rukka suit for PPE
Cable lock up hobbit when inebriated
Teach hobbit how to swim in your pool with Safesport air mattress
Post by: SpecialK on April 05, 2020, 05:28:51 PM
Great find
A hobbit can use the Rukka suit for PPE
Cable lock up hobbit when inebriated
Teach hobbit how to swim in your pool with Safesport air mattress
What to do to the hobbit with the Hella cord?
Post by: volador on April 05, 2020, 05:58:03 PM
What to do to the hobbit with the Hella cord?
stick Hella cord SAE end up hobbit arse light 'em up like christmas tree
Post by: volador on April 06, 2020, 03:25:34 AM
Post by: SpecialK on May 15, 2020, 06:12:46 PM
I would like to find an older R series that needs some work for a good price.
Good way to spend the summer!
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Post by: volador on May 16, 2020, 04:46:45 PM
Youre welcome (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,550.msg121517.html#msg121517)