What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Soggz]

Ok, that didn’t work, so...
Fitted new (to me), left and right handlebar switchgear. All the lights, bells and whistles work!
Hurrah!

[John Lang]

I adjusted the throttle position switch to eliminate backfiring on overdrive. I was unable to hear an audible click, said to occur when the throttle moves from the off position (neither could a youngster called on to lend an ear) so I removed the connector and used a multimeter to detect when the 'throttle off' and 'full throttle' switches open and close. I ascertained that both switches do work and adjusted the tilt so that the 'throttle off' breaks the circuit when moved off its fully closed position. Job done.   

Gear Position Switch freakout. -- Following instructions on this site I removed, cleaned, re-sealed and reinstalled the switch. One mistake: I figured it necessary to remove the rubber cap in order to get into the plastic cylinder containing the bits to be cleaned. After the rubber fell to pieces I realized the cylinder could have been twisted/pulled apart without bothering the rubber cap. I applied some silicon-based window sealant to replace it. Meanwhile, success. The gears display correctly again.

[Skunky]

Balanced my throttle bodies and adjusted the Air flow meter using the lean drop method. Then went for a blast  :clap:

[Soggz]

FINALLY!
Got it MOT’d!
Went straight through with no advisories!
Smooth as silk to ride, and a big thank you to The Mighty Gryph,Laitch, Johnny and everyone else on here for pointing me in the right direction on getting the thing working properly.
Off for a ride out on it later today!

[John Lang]

I assembled a somewhat Rube Goldbergian three-bottle system to measure and equalize vacuum at the three ports. The bottles were siphon linked and each was attached to a port. The one connected to cylinder #3 was also linked to the fuel pressure regulator using a t-connector. A fun arrangement but difficult to use. One bottle would empty into the other two before I could adjust anything. At least it was sensitive. So I set the brass adjustment screw for cylinder #1 to one and a half turns open and used a small vacuum gauge (I had forgotten I had) to set the others to give the same reading as #1. The gauge needle bounced around at first but crimping the hose steadied it enough to get a fair reading, adjustable with the brass screw. I threw out the bottles and hoses.

[Laitch]

I adjusted the throttle position switch to eliminate backfiring on overdrive.. . . Gear Position Switch freakout. -- Following instructions on this site I removed, cleaned, re-sealed and reinstalled the switch.. . .

I assembled a somewhat Rube Goldbergian three-bottle system to measure and equalize vacuum at the three ports.. . .   I threw out the bottles and hoses.

Thanks for those informative updates, John. You're sure keeping busy up there.

[John Lang]

Thank you, Laitch, for all your invaluable guidance. I enjoy working on the bike. It must sound pompous when someone with no history of wrenching tells others that DIY maintenance is the essence of motorcycling but I feel that way and it is the reason I have held onto what I thought would be a 'starter bike' even as urged by others to 'upgrade'. As I get to know my Brick better I like it all the more.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I assembled a somewhat Rube Goldbergian three-bottle system to measure and equalize vacuum at the three ports. The bottles were siphon linked and each was attached to a port. The one connected to cylinder #3 was also linked to the fuel pressure regulator using a t-connector. A fun arrangement but difficult to use. One bottle would empty into the other two before I could adjust anything. At least it was sensitive. So I set the brass adjustment screw for cylinder #1 to one and a half turns open and used a small vacuum gauge (I had forgotten I had) to set the others to give the same reading as #1. The gauge needle bounced around at first but crimping the hose steadied it enough to get a fair reading, adjustable with the brass screw. I threw out the bottles and hoses.

You should have only thrown out the third bottle.  The way  the bottles work is to set the #3 cylinder(or #4) idle air screw to about 1 turn out from lightly bottomed.  Then you use the bottles to balance the other idle air  screws to #3(or #4. 

The bottle rig is amazingly accurate, I have been using mine for five years on four different bikes.  I can let the engine idle for a minute or more and not have any fluid transfer between bottles.  With calibration differences on gauges and mercury sticks, I doubt you can get that close using them.

[Soggz]

First 110 miles on it! Passed its mot, got it taxed yesterday!

[John Lang]

Gryph, your throttle body balancing setup is much, much neater than was mine, my third bottle adding unnecessary complexity of tubing. If I do it again, I will follow your model (using proper lab bottles rather than glass juice bottles with holes drilled into the lids, and transmission fluid rather than water). But I think I won't have to as my re-discovered vacuum gauge seems to do the job well enough. I wish I had taken a photo of my comical setup in use.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

John L, a lot of what you see was the result of a late winter bout of nearly fatal cabin fever.  The bottles and stoppers are the important things, along with a couple pieces of brass tube and PVC hose from the hardware store.  Gets a fair bit of use with as many as three bikes in the garage at times, and it's so easy to use, I'll check the balance just to break the boredom of a rainy day.

[alabrew]

Carb balancing is next for me with Big Red. Just got her off the lift after winter maintenance - checked the valves and changed three shims, new carb. rubbers both bottom and top, new air cleaner (took hers and put it on the RS as it had a K&N), new clutch cable (took hers and put it on the RS as it developed a short) and a new master cylinder plunger - took me days to get it bleed and ended up having to push fluid from the calipers. Didn’t crank the first time I tried, but put it on the tender and tried the next day and she purred to life. As it was after dark, I waited and took her out yesterday for some good ole Yee Ha! Man, does she ride nice!

[Laitch]

Carb balancing is next . . .

You're toying with us, aren't you. cool shades

[alabrew]

Can’t get one past you, can one?

Yes, incorrectly stated. Replaced Throttle Body rubbers upper and lower, and then on to a throttle body balance next.

[K1300S]

You should have only thrown out the third bottle.  The way  the bottles work is to set the #3 cylinder(or #4) idle air screw to about 1 turn out from lightly bottomed.  Then you use the bottles to balance the other idle air  screws to #3(or #4. 

The bottle rig is amazingly accurate, I have been using mine for five years on four different bikes.  I can let the engine idle for a minute or more and not have any fluid transfer between bottles.  With calibration differences on gauges and mercury sticks, I doubt you can get that close using them.

or you can invest less than $100 on a CarbTune....simple, fast, no bottles and liquids, very accurate and you can do all three (or four) TB's at once.
http://www.carbtune.com/

:-)

[Soggz]

New injector cover came today.

[K1300S]

New injector cover came today.

Someone making those again?

[Laitch]

Someone making those again?

They can be purchased from MotorworksUK. You'll likely get a free keychain with the order to impress your friends.  :yippee:

[Chaos]

found an old CC products catalog, probably from late 80's.  Mostly airhead stuff but a section on K's.  Ahh, back in the day when someone actually cared about classic K aftermarket doodads...

[Chaos]

And that Supertrapp slip on for the K75 was absolute garbage.  Sounded like a rabid dog farting in a Chok-ful-off-nuts coffee can, the baffles rusted out and it sooted the rear wheel.  Probably lost 10hp running it.

[Soggz]

Someone making those again?

Im guessing, yes. Speed 7 used to make them. This one is from Motoworks. £24.09.

[Soggz]

E5B33F8E-7925-426A-B58A-5FB1E7E4251B.jpeg (92.58 kB . 480x576 - viewed 420 times) I did see this on you tube and mentioned it on here when I was learning about these bike but someone on here said something along the lines of “no! It’s factory set! Don’t touch it, or the world will blow up!”, or something...What I saw, gave the bike more power, and better fuel consumption. I have a feeling that it’s already been done to my bike, becuase at around 60mph,and 6000 revs,give it a handful, and it wants to go off the clock! Get to 115,(fastest I’ve gone on it), it’s still pulling like a train (locomotive, imagine Casey Jones on amphetamines!).


Not sure about that side case air scoop.... might make one and see for myself...

[K1300S]

best way to add lots of HP to your K is to................

buy it a K1300S as a stablemate.  nothing quite like the sound of 175hp at 11,000 rpm!

:-)

[Soggz]

best way to add lots of HP to your K is to................

buy it a K1300S as a stablemate.  nothing quite like the sound of 175hp at 11,000 rpm!

:-)

It has a CX500 eurosport cafe racer, as a stablemate. Let’s it know what a carbed bike sounds like!

[Chaos]

best way to add lots of HP to your K is to................

Buy a Ural.  40hp and a 800lb rig makes the K75 seem like a rocketship