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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: MaraudeRS on October 31, 2016, 07:47:49 PM
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Hello all! Not only is this my first project but it's the first bike I've ever owned. It was given to me by a friend who got it from his neighbor. It's been sitting for at least 10 years so it has rust and corrosion everywhere. It appears to be mostly on the surface so I'm hoping it won't be a big deal to clean/fix. It has 41k miles but I'm told these bikes will go for a lot longer than that. When I received it it wouldn't even start so I pulled the battery and tested it...it was dead. From reading this forum I learned about the Odyssey pc680 so that what I ordered for it. Once I got the new battery in I was able to get it to fire up and even idle. I didn't want to run it too long as it still had all the fluids in it from when I received it. Also from reading on here, I'll be doing all this (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161031/acdebfc4d4e87001f0429cc85b7f945f.png)
I'm going to have a lot of questions, specifically, what to get and where to get it. I don't mind using the search function so of course I'll resort to that first.
So without further ado, here she is:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161031/30c8165c1fee12a133804ac2ab2e3bce.jpg)
And without her baggage:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161031/d2c8c47c032f670281361f10365e7d82.jpg)
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Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. First thing is either down load or get a workshop manual you will find it invaluable.
Regards Martin.
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Welcome, that's a good lookin project! If it has been sitting for 10 years replace the tires no matter what they look like.
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Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. First thing is either down load or get a workshop manual you will find it invaluable.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin! I'm very excited. The bike did come with this Haynes book. It should be good, right?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/b24b2f90e92f1772ac66ac25a608adbf.jpg)
Welcome, that's a good lookin project! If it has been sitting for 10 years replace the tires no matter what they look like.
Thanks! I'm definitely going to replace the tires. That's one of the things I was going to ask advice on. What are the "go-to" tires for these beasts?
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:2thumbup:
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http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2927.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2927.0.html)
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Of the several manuals available, I would say the Haynes is definitely not the best. Get a Clymer Manual, and download a factory manual(they are posted on the internet). The factory manual is for earlier models, but there is a lot that is common between them.
There are also excellent videos on YouTube most notably by an excellent mechanic with a rather foul mouth named Chris Harris. Lots of excellent info peppered with F-bombs in his videos.
It's great that you have it running. With a bike like yours that has sat idle for a long time that is about half or more of the battle. Check the tank ASAP, and if it's clean, dump some Techron Fuel System Cleaner in it and Start a regime of starting and letting it idle for 5 minutes everyday until you have all the maintenance checks done and she is ready to get out on the road. Be aware that it will probably run crappy for the first couple thousand miles. They seem to take that long to get all the cobwebs blown out.
Once you have it running on the road, you can strip the bodywork and clean up the corrosion and do some repainting. The rear frame tube under the seat and cowl will be really bad, probably the worst part of the frame. Take your time, you have a really great bike there that will give you many years and at least 100,000 miles of pleasure.
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The bike did come with this Haynes book.
Just note that the manual is 5 years older than your '92 ...
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Why pay for or use a service manual when there's Motobrick?
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First bike? Consider getting something smaller to learn on while you get that beautiful brick back on the road.
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First bike? Consider getting something smaller to learn on while you get that beautiful brick back on the road.
Not a bad idea.
I rode and raced motorcycles for 20 years and when I got my k75 after 12 years away I dropped it in my driveway the fourth time I took it out.
Be aware that these bikes are intended for the open road, and are heavy and a bit clumsy at slow speeds in tight situations, especially if you are less than about 5' 9". Your RS isn't as top heavy as an RT, but it can still be a handful.
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Of the several manuals available, I would say the Haynes is definitely not the best. Get a Clymer Manual, and download a factory manual(they are posted on the internet). The factory manual is for earlier models, but there is a lot that is common between them.
There are also excellent videos on YouTube most notably by an excellent mechanic with a rather foul mouth named Chris Harris. Lots of excellent info peppered with F-bombs in his videos.
It's great that you have it running. With a bike like yours that has sat idle for a long time that is about half or more of the battle. Check the tank ASAP, and if it's clean, dump some Techron Fuel System Cleaner in it and Start a regime of starting and letting it idle for 5 minutes everyday until you have all the maintenance checks done and she is ready to get out on the road. Be aware that it will probably run crappy for the first couple thousand miles. They seem to take that long to get all the cobwebs blown out.
Once you have it running on the road, you can strip the bodywork and clean up the corrosion and do some repainting. The rear frame tube under the seat and cowl will be really bad, probably the worst part of the frame. Take your time, you have a really great bike there that will give you many years and at least 100,000 miles of pleasure.
Thanks! I'll definitely get the factory manual because, to be honest, I don't know what all the switches do. Most of the wording that may have been on them is gone. I'm glad to hear that I should get 100k miles out of this thing because I'm a little worried about how much money it's going to take to get this thing done compared to what buying one in good condition would cost.
Just note that the manual is 5 years older than your '92 ...
True that. I'm sure there are some similarities but also plenty of changes over those 5 years.
Why pay for or use a service manual when there's Motobrick?
My thoughts exactly! :) But I also don't want to be a nuisance and ask stupid questions that could easily be answered by checking a manual. I'd rather save your guys' time for stuff like "what tires do you guys recommend" or "what would be a good after-market exhaust to put on it".
First bike? Consider getting something smaller to learn on while you get that beautiful brick back on the road.
Not a bad idea.
I rode and raced motorcycles for 20 years and when I got my k75 after 12 years away I dropped it in my driveway the fourth time I took it out.
Be aware that these bikes are intended for the open road, and are heavy and a bit clumsy at slow speeds in tight situations, especially if you are less than about 5' 9". Your RS isn't as top heavy as an RT, but it can still be a handful.
Although I completely agree with you, it was hard enough getting my wife on-board with letting me get a bike that doesn't even run, let alone trying to convince her to let me get a second one! My plan is to get comfortable and confident riding it before I do any repairs/mods that would get damaged by my dropping it.
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I haven't had to drop a lot of money bringing my brick back from years of non-use. The trade off of course, is sweat equity. If would have had to pay someone to do what I did, it would have cost much more.
Since the bike was given to you, take the cost of what a decent k100 of similar make and milage would cost used and use that figure for your budget for parts and repairs. (the time you give is for the love of the game)
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Do your own work as much as possible. Don't think of it as sweat equity, that sounds too much like work. Personally, I look at working on my toys as foreplay.
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I haven't had to drop a lot of money bringing my brick back from years of non-use. The trade off of course, is sweat equity. If would have had to pay someone to do what I did, it would have cost much more.
Since the bike was given to you, take the cost of what a decent k100 of similar make and milage would cost used and use that figure for your budget for parts and repairs. (the time you give is for the love of the game)
This is exactly the mentality I have going into it. It already has sentimental value being that it's my first bike and was given to me by a good friend that's moving away. I already know that I'll be putting more money into it than what it's worth since I'll be having the frame and other parts professionally cleaned and repainted but I'm ok with that.
I just left Walmart with 15w-50 Mobil 1 motor oil, 75w-90 trans & gear oil, a Bosch d3330 oil filter, & dot4 brake fluid. I was at autozone earlier and got the Techron fuel system cleaner and some Armorall leather restorer for the seat.
I have a mechanically inclined neighbor that's always fixing BMW cars and he offered to help me out. That'll be very helpful to a noob like me.
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Do your own work as much as possible. Don't think of it as sweat equity, that sounds too much like work. Personally, I look at working on my toys as foreplay.
Exactly! For me it'll be therapy
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After searching this forum and talking to a friend of mine that has ridden for years, I think I'll be getting a set of the Pirelli Angel GT tires for Rusty Brick. I really wanted a set of Shinko tires but it doesn't look like they make a rear tire in my size, 160/60zr18. Has anyone tried a wider tire on their stock rear wheel? It's purely for aesthetics, of course, but I love the look of a wide rear tire.
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After searching this forum and talking to a friend of mine that has ridden for years, I think I'll be getting a set of the Pirelli Angel GT tires for Rusty Brick. I really wanted a set of Shinko tires but it doesn't look like they make a rear tire in my size, 160/60zr18. Has anyone tried a wider tire on their stock rear wheel? It's purely for aesthetics, of course, but I love the look of a wide rear tire.
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I have a Dunlop 160/60 18. Fits fine, but I don't use the center stand so I'm not if there are clearance issues there (I think there might be). A few people have fitted the K1200 rear wheel and have successfully run 170s if you want to try that
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I have a Dunlop 160/60 18. Fits fine, but I don't use the center stand so I'm not if there are clearance issues there (I think there might be). A few people have fitted the K1200 rear wheel and have successfully run 170s if you want to try that
A 170 would be cool but I don't want to go through the effort unless I can get at least a 190 on it. I'll just stick with what I've got for now.
On another note, I just ordered 4 NGK Iridium DR7EIX spark plugs. My plan is to replace the engine oil, oil filter, and spark plugs before I run the motor with fresh gas and Techron cleaner. Sound right?
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What stand should I buy for working on the bike? Is there one that you really like and works well for the K100s? I'm going to be moving it into the garage as winter approaches so I want to get a stand that makes it easy to work on the bike.
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hi
good luck with your project.
you have probably already polished up your seat with that armourall .
if you haven't then my advice is don't.
sure your seat will look great but the first time you lean a bit on the front brake you are more than likely going to introduce your testicles to the back of your fuel tank at some speed.
i speak from experience and for a while there i spoke a full octave higher.
warm soapy water would be my advice
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I suspect you're gonna have to specify what kinda work to get a recommendation for a stand...
I have a ft so I don't hafta lay on the floor and a motorcycle lift that combined w/angle iron brackets allow me to get wheels off the ground...
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I suspect you're gonna have to specify what kinda work to get a recommendation for a stand...
I have a ft so I don't hafta lay on the floor and a motorcycle lift that combined w/angle iron brackets allow me to get wheels off the ground...
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Do you have a motorcycle operators license, MaraudeRS?
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you have probably already polished up your seat with that armourall .
if you haven't then my advice is don't.
sure your seat will look great but the first time you lean a bit on the front brake you are more than likely going to introduce your testicles to the back of your fuel tank at some speed.
i speak from experience and for a while there i spoke a full octave higher.
warm soapy water would be my advice
:hehehe :2thumbup:
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hi
good luck with your project.
you have probably already polished up your seat with that armourall .
if you haven't then my advice is don't.
sure your seat will look great but the first time you lean a bit on the front brake you are more than likely going to introduce your testicles to the back of your fuel tank at some speed.
i speak from experience and for a while there i spoke a full octave higher.
warm soapy water would be my advice
Thank you for saving my testicles :) I haven't used it yet so I'll return it. Any recommendations on what I should use? I can take some close-ups of the seat if that helps. It's a Corbin.
I suspect you're gonna have to specify what kinda work to get a recommendation for a stand...
I have a ft so I don't hafta lay on the floor and a motorcycle lift that combined w/angle iron brackets allow me to get wheels off the ground...
My goal for now is just to get the bike rideable, so I need to be able to remove the brakes and wheels. I placed some 2x8s under the center stand and it gave me a good amount of clearance in order to do the oil change. Once I get the fuel tank emptied, new gas put in with fuel system cleaner, I'll replace the spark plugs and get to work on the brakes. Here's what they look like (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/21841b5922061df437192bba9aa7b168.jpg)
I'm hoping I can clean the disks enough so that I won't need to replace them. EBC are the only ones I've been able to find and all 3 disks would run me around $750, yikes!
Do you have a motorcycle operators license, MaraudeRS?
:D Not yet. What gave it away? Hahaha! I had a permit a while back but never got my license and the permit expired. As soon as I know that the bike is salvageable I'll get my license.
Here are some close-ups. Maybe y'all can tell me what you think
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/6cfe012b6eb040f8c1d3ee999d981ea2.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/d095e74b7bfacd91cabff0de1069f852.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/aec8d9c4e43a7c8973ac8d50078e8192.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/d326560e8d80b8ad0eb82d8466730de9.jpg)
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:D Not yet. What gave it away? Hahaha! I had a permit a while back but never got my license and the permit expired. As soon as I know that the bike is salvageable I'll get my license.
The reason I ask, MarauderRS, is that I think it's unwise for any inexperienced rider to start out on the road with a 1000cc bike. I understand that you sincerely believe yourself capable of getting "comfortable and confident" riding it, but while you're doing that in traffic, you're putting the rest of us at risk when it gets away from you. If you're a bicycle racer with steep downhill experience that would help, but it won't give you a clue of the forces unleashed from a 1000cc bike when you give it a whiskey throttle. The fact that you state you like the "look" of a wide tire means to me that before you take to the road, you need to gain understanding of how a motorcycle is designed for handling and the consequences involved in changing its components.
I strongly advise at least a ten hour session—broken into 2 to 5 hour blocks—of watching motorcycle crashes on YouTube. The Ride Like a Pro (https://www.ridelikeapro.com/) cd is a useful tool to prepare yourself for riding.
While you're working on this bike, I think a reasonable course of action is to enroll yourself in a Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) basic riders course where you'll be given a 250cc bike to learn the basics. The courses fill quickly so enroll early. If you pass it, you'll have your operators license and an understanding of the physics involved with motorcycle riding and the consequences of an errant twist of the throttle or grab of the brakes. If you fail it, you'll have gotten real experience on a bike—without grossly endangering others or yourself—in a controlled environment with experienced instructors who can observe your faults accurately. You can take the course again with a new understanding of what's required in riding.
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Getting back to the bike, you write that you haven't used the Armorall then you ask what you should use. In Blackie's comment was a recommendation of what you should use. Consider encouraging respondents by reading and acknowledging what they advise.
Insofar as the fuel situation is concerned, after you drain the tank and before you fill it with clean fuel, you should remove the entire fuel cap assembly and show us a photo of the tank's interior.
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The reason I ask, MarauderRS, is that I think it's unwise for any inexperienced rider to start out on the road with a 1000cc bike. I understand that you sincerely believe yourself capable of getting "comfortable and confident" riding it, but while you're doing that in traffic, you're putting the rest of us at risk when it gets away from you. If you're a bicycle racer with steep downhill experience that would help, but it won't give you a clue of the forces unleashed from a 1000cc bike when you give it a whiskey throttle. The fact that you state you like the "look" of a wide tire means to me that before you take to the road, you need to gain understanding of how a motorcycle is designed for handling and the consequences involved in changing its components.
I strongly advise at least a ten hour session—broken into 2 to 5 hour blocks—of watching motorcycle crashes on YouTube. The Ride Like a Pro (https://www.ridelikeapro.com/) cd is a useful tool to prepare yourself for riding.
While you're working on this bike, I think a reasonable course of action is to enroll yourself in a Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) basic riders course where you'll be given a 250cc bike to learn the basics. The courses fill quickly so enroll early. If you pass it, you'll have your operators license and an understanding of the physics involved with motorcycle riding and the consequences of an errant twist of the throttle or grab of the brakes. If you fail it, you'll have gotten real experience on a bike—without grossly endangering others or yourself—in a controlled environment with experienced instructors who can observe your faults accurately. You can take the course again with a new understanding of what's required in riding.
Thank you for the sound advice. I fully intend to take at least 1 safety course or more before taking this thing on the highway. Fortunately I live in a quiet neighborhood with very little traffic so I should be able to do some in-town riding without causing any chaos.
Getting back to the bike, you write that you haven't used the Armorall then you ask what you should use. In Blackie's comment was a recommendation of what you should use. Consider encouraging respondents by reading and acknowledging what they advise.
Insofar as the fuel situation is concerned, after you drain the tank and before you fill it with clean fuel, you should remove the entire fuel cap assembly and show us a photo of the tank's interior.
Yes, you're right! He did make a recommendation and I will try that. Sorry for missing it. I remembered exactly what he said as soon as I read your post.
I'll take the fuel cap off assembly off and post a pic. I looked in the tank with a flashlight and it looked really clean to me but I'll defer to y'all.
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Has anyone used the Bosch D3330 filter in their bike? I checked a cross reference guide and it's supposed to work but my 76mm x 14 flute wrench isn't fitting on it.
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but my 76mm x 14 flute wrench isn't fitting on it.
About your wrench: Is the diameter too large or too small? Too many or too few flutes? Is the wrench wall too thick? The OEM wrench is 74.4x14 flutes
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About your wrench: Is the diameter too large or too small? Too many or too few flutes? Is the wrench wall too thick? The OEM wrench is 74.4x14 flutes
The diameter is too large. It has the right number of flutes but just slips around the filter. It fit the BWM filter that was in the motor perfectly but it doesn't fit the new filter. It sounds like I need to find the 74.4x14 you mention because that will probably be the right size. Thanks!
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The diameter is too large. It has the right number of flutes but just slips around the filter. It fit the BWM filter that was in the motor perfectly but it doesn't fit the new filter. It sounds like I need to find the 74.4x14 you mention because that will probably be the right size.
What's the current filter?
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/520168cf2fccce79bceb4103269fb493.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/1760887ce3e54dd91baed821776e9d6d.jpg)
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You've got an used oem filter and a wrench that fits it—so you could call that wrench an oem, too. I'd get a different filter, unless I wanted to be a wrench collector. There can never too many wrenches, if there's enough room for them.
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La itch is giving you very sound advice re your skill level. I work away for 2 weeks at a time and whenever I plan to go for a ride I like to watch youtube m/c crash's. it settles my head and helps keep me within my skill level. (I've been riding 40+ years). also remember the 2 golden rules when riding +1 you are invisible. +2 EVERYONE wants to kill you :falldown:
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You are one lucky man for being given the (imo) best and most beautifull incarnation of the K-bike there is. If it were pearl white i would REALLY be green with envy :drool:
Regarding the state of the bike, i know a bit of elbowgrease will make her shine again, just please don't cafe her okay?
I really hope you take Laitch and Gazman's advise of at least taking some riders course of sorts because as they are gentle beasts, there sure is a beast in there, learn to know it before unleashing it!
I can still see the faces of the people in the car i was heading for when i overshot a turn for the first time. Knowing fully well i had to give it more lean to make it, i just didn't have the balls to do it due to being to new to the riding game.... Luckiliy it was only one car and i managed to just mis it and sort of make it through the turn somehow...
Best part, as Gazman says, 1 No one sees you, no matter how much hi-wiz and bright lights you are running, 2 Those that do are out to get you! Riding like that has kept me alive for the last 20+ years of riding...
Keep up the good work!
Oh and btw, 160 is plenty wide enough if you want a nice ride, looks aren't everyting you know :2thumbup:
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You are one lucky man for being given the (imo) best and most beautifull incarnation of the K-bike there is. If it were pearl white i would REALLY be green with envy :drool:
Regarding the state of the bike, i know a bit of elbowgrease will make her shine again, just please don't cafe her okay?
I really hope you take Laitch and Gazman's advise of at least taking some riders course of sorts because as they are gentle beasts, there sure is a beast in there, learn to know it before unleashing it!
I can still see the faces of the people in the car i was heading for when i overshot a turn for the first time. Knowing fully well i had to give it more lean to make it, i just didn't have the balls to do it due to being to new to the riding game.... Luckiliy it was only one car and i managed to just mis it and sort of make it through the turn somehow...
Best part, as Gazman says, 1 No one sees you, no matter how much hi-wiz and bright lights you are running, 2 Those that do are out to get you! Riding like that has kept me alive for the last 20+ years of riding...
Keep up the good work!
Oh and btw, 160 is plenty wide enough if you want a nice ride, looks aren't everyting you know :2thumbup:
It is pearl white[emoji6] I'm going to take Laitch & Gazmans advice. As soon as get this beast to the point where I know she'll be ridable I'm going to get my permit and sign up for some classes :2thumbup:
La itch is giving you very sound advice re your skill level. I work away for 2 weeks at a time and whenever I plan to go for a ride I like to watch youtube m/c crash's. it settles my head and helps keep me within my skill level. (I've been riding 40+ years). also remember the 2 golden rules when riding +1 you are invisible. +2 EVERYONE wants to kill you :falldown:
I'm going to remember those 2 golden rules and check out some YouTube videos. Thx
You've got an used oem filter and a wrench that fits it—so you could call that wrench an oem, too. I'd get a different filter, unless I wanted to be a wrench collector. There can never too many wrenches, if there's enough room for them.
Fortunately, there's enough room for them and they're cheaper than the filter[emoji23]
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It is? Wow! Must get my eyes checked then, i could have sworn i saw metallic grey in the pictures!
Jep, you're right, here i go, i'm going green now :yes
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It is? Wow! Must get my eyes checked then, i could have sworn i saw metallic grey in the pictures!
Jep, you're right, here i go, i'm going green now :yes
:) I'm rather fond of it myself.
So I got the gas filler off and here's what it looks like. I'm guessing I should replace the gasket? Lol
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/82b5b41715266805a380f1a3cbb2ac8b.jpg)
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So I got the gas filler off and here's what it looks like. I'm guessing I should replace the gasket? Lol
Consider putting it through the Full Monty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mwpt9IumBCc
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Consider putting it through the Full Monty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mwpt9IumBCc
Good idea. Has anyone actually ordered it from James @ Bob's BMW that he mentions in the video? I started looking for the kit online but ever site says it's discontinued. I was able to order the big seal on eBay for around $14 shipped. Unfortunately I think I'm going to end up with two gaskets now if I order the full kit.
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MAX BMW shows the gasket set as available on their fiche...
Jim
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MAX BMW shows the gasket set as available on their fiche...
Jim
Thanks, Jim! I'll try to find just the parts I haven't already ordered.
Here are pics of inside the tank:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/7993fbb964ee667ce61c20a707793646.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/f5f039f27c56e247478c272bc3e82c9a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/06f504abcc843a06ae4c2170e04a36cd.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/9e8e66d29c5148c6ca8c879234156251.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/07a8a627afc62fdbea829cb68784d508.jpg)
What do y'all think? I started looking for miniature vacuum attachments in order to clean it out. Or can I just wipe it down with something?
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What do y'all think? I started looking for miniature vacuum attachments in order to clean it out. Or can I just wipe it down with something?
Use a vacuum cleaner on that and you're liable to witness how an electric motor can ignite gasoline fumes when least expected. If it were my tank, I'd remove the tank then remove the fuel switch to clean up that rusty float rod and check its integrity. The interior would be cleaned with V&P naphtha, or another solvent and the metal would be swabbed with rags and flushed until all that grit was removed. I'd pull the fuel pump assembly to verify the condition of its pre-filter and check for sediment in its sump.
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NEVER STICK A VACUUM CLEANER IN A GAS TANK!!!
The gas fumes fill the cleaner and then are ignited by sparks in the motor commutator. I recall a shop vac exploding were I worked back in the 70's. Put two janitors in the hospital and blew a wall of windows out of the building.
I think that someone here cleaned out their tank by filling it with vinegar. Had it looking like new.
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Yep I used vinegar and it worked really well. It is dirt cheap as well- I think I used one and a half gallons in mine but could have put more. I left it for three days then drained it all out after scrubbing with a brillo pad.
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Thank you all very much! I figured it was a bad idea to suck up gas with an electric vacuum so I borrowed this from my neighbor and it worked like a charm (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161115/06be42a49bcd8f461c88b2e7a85dc76e.jpg)
I had a feeling that pulling the tank would be recommended. I'm a little apprehensive knowing my skill level (which y'all have presumably picked up on quickly) and that fact that my Clymer manual hasn't arrived yet. I ordered it today along with the tank gasket. I'll be ordering the filler cap rebuild kit shortly as well. While I wait I'll pick up a couple gallons of vinegar and do that cleaning recommended and check the float rods integrity. It feels like it's still pretty solid so I'm hoping to hold off on replacing it until I know for sure that the major systems of the bike work properly and it's worth all this trouble.
Laitch, I will pull the pump and check the sump.
Thanks for the advice everyone!
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In my mind this is a stupid question with an obvious answer but I just need verification please. Does this rotor need to be replaced or can it be cleaned/resurfaced by a shop, and if so, is it worth it?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/1eb08e088cad09b9535093c75d6a29f4.jpg)
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Does this rotor need to be replaced or can it be cleaned/resurfaced by a shop, and if so, is it worth it?
It needs to be replaced.
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It needs to be replaced.
Thank you for the quick response. That's what I was thinking. What do you think about the fronts?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/36f1a37b8b0b8638769272a3f665f51d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/49c87822e5f0d76404e9a0eff099662d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/88fedec6ad7999ef669c6f6958af661e.jpg)
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That's what I was thinking.
Now that makes me want to reconsider. :hehehe Really though, from here that disc looks unsalvageable.
As far as the front rotors, you need to know if the thickness of the rotors is within spec. If it is on both, you could try hand-sanding them with garnet paper then test them. If there's pitting, replace them. The front brakes' importance and their tendency to make noise even in the best conditions—depending on the pad choice and alignment of the planets during installation—would encourage me to replace them, too.
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Now that makes me want to reconsider. :hehehe
Seriously! Haha! I was looking at brakes and the only disks I could find are made by EBC and cost $250 a pop...yikes! Are there any available for less? I understand the importance of good working brakes but at every turn I'm wondering what the total price tag is going to be to get this brick flying again. At this point I know that it's going to cost a lot more to restore than it's resale value but so far I'm not discouraged. I'll get it up and running properly before I invest much into the cosmetics and if I decide to start customizing it I'll reevaluate my budget.
I ordered the fuel cap rebuild kit and it should be here in 2-4 weeks. MaxBMW has to have it shipped from Germany[emoji19]
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Contact Mark from the link below. He has a K100 parts bike and will sell you anything that he doesn't need. I've bought a couple parts from him already. Good luck with the project!
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.0.html
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I was looking at brakes and the only disks I could find are made by EBC and cost $250 a pop...yikes! Are there any available for less?
Of course there are. Those who are willing to learn how to do an effective Web search will have seemingly endless resources for information and goods. It's a lot easier than rebuilding the brake calipers—something which you also may need to do. :giggles
Good used parts are constantly being salvaged. Finding either used or new parts takes the patience and endurance of a still hunter. You should have several parts salvagers and new part sources bookmarked, and be searching regularly with a willingness to buy when you find. Hesitation doesn't work.
As far as dealers go a list might have this one (http://stores.ebay.com/aandmcycletraders/_i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&rt=nc&_nkw=bmw%20k&_sid=446081355&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=5) and undoubtedly this other guy (http://Kbikeparts.com), this guy (http://stores.ebay.com/Highland-Motorsports/_i.html?rt=nc&_sid=47069935&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=10), too, here's a good one (http://stores.ebay.com/Mikes-Motorcycle-Parts/_i.html?rt=nc&_nkw=k75&_sid=73861708&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=2), this one (http://stores.ebay.com/SunCoastCycleSports) might come in handy, and this one (http://www.duncansbeemers.com) who isn't giving anything away, that's for sure. There are others like Motobins and Motorworks in the UK that have both new and used. There are lots of others out there.
I saw one of those in that list has a rear rotor for $95.00 with a thickness of .165. How long that will last depends on whether you're braking in Topeka or Telluride.
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Contact Mark from the link below. He has a K100 parts bike and will sell you anything that he doesn't need. I've bought a couple parts from him already. Good luck with the project!
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.0.html
Thank you! That link takes me to the main Motobrick homepage but I'll search the classifieds for Marks post.
Of course there are. Those who are willing to learn how to do an effective Web search will have seemingly endless resources for information and goods. It's a lot easier than rebuilding the brake calipers—something which you also may need to do. :giggles
Good used parts are constantly being salvaged. Finding either used or new parts takes the patience and endurance of a still hunter. You should have several parts salvagers and new part sources bookmarked, and be searching regularly with a willingness to buy when you find. Hesitation doesn't work.
As far as dealers go a list might have this one (http://stores.ebay.com/aandmcycletraders/_i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&rt=nc&_nkw=bmw%20k&_sid=446081355&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=5) and undoubtedly this other guy (http://Kbikeparts.com), this guy (http://stores.ebay.com/Highland-Motorsports/_i.html?rt=nc&_sid=47069935&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=10), too, here's a good one (http://stores.ebay.com/Mikes-Motorcycle-Parts/_i.html?rt=nc&_nkw=k75&_sid=73861708&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=2), this one (http://stores.ebay.com/SunCoastCycleSports) might come in handy, and this one (http://www.duncansbeemers.com) who isn't giving anything away, that's for sure. There are others like Motobins and Motorworks in the UK that have both new and used. There are lots of others out there.
I saw one of those in that list has a rear rotor for $95.00 with a thickness of .165. How long that will last depends on whether you're braking in Topeka or Telluride.
My web searching skills must be lacking because I could only find those EBCs I mentioned. I'm sure they'll improve as I'll probably end up searching for every single part of this bike lol. Thank you for those links! I'll begin the hunt by learning what the spec width is and finding the one that's closest to it. $95 is palatable but I'll be braking in an environment closer to Telluride than Topeka.
In other news, my Clymer manual arrived today! Now I can begin the task of removing the tank. Woohoo!
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Thank you! That link takes me to the main Motobrick homepage but I'll search the classifieds for Marks post.
Mark doesn't have parts listed in the classified section. He has a project going with the link below. You can PM him with your parts inquiries.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.msg67243.html#msg67243
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eBay is my friend for cheap used parts. Every morning I do a couple quick searches under "K75", "K100" and "K1100" with sorts for "Newly Listed".
Takes about 10 minutes, and I don't miss any good deals on something I may need. I have found things like a complete engine, trans and final drive for $75, Hall Sensors on the plate for $25, a starter for $10, a pair of brake rotors for $50, and a source for three sets of brake pads for $18.
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Mark doesn't have parts listed in the classified section. He has a project going with the link below. You can PM him with your parts inquiries.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.msg67243.html#msg67243
Thanks for that. I'm subscribed to his thread now so if I need anything else I'll ask him.
eBay is my friend for cheap used parts. Every morning I do a couple quick searches under "K75", "K100" and "K1100" with sorts for "Newly Listed".
Takes about 10 minutes, and I don't miss any good deals on something I may need. I have found things like a complete engine, trans and final drive for $75, Hall Sensors on the plate for $25, a starter for $10, a pair of brake rotors for $50, and a source for three sets of brake pads for $18.
Thank you for the advice! That's exactly what I just did after Laitch so kindly gave me a list of sellers to look at. I ended up finding a brand new EBC pro-Lite MD661 for $165 plus $20 shipping. I figure that I might as well bite the bullet and start my riding days off with a fresh set of stoppers.
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Some suggestions if I may:
Ride a smaller bike to get your eye in before you get riding on this. A Suzuki SV650 is a cheap and well sorted bike (too small for me) which you've have a lot of fun on and the occasional fright. Given the condition of this bike (very salvageable and an excellent gift) it may be some time before it is ready for registration. They are heavy and somewhat hard to move around (if have a sloping driveway I have to do a 180 degree turn in ... carefully).
Not sure how mechanical you are. Be systematic and organised. My best friends with this stuff is a small fishing tackle / fly box and little paper notes to enable you to know what is the next item to deal with, mobile phone camera, resealable lunchbags with notes. There are a lot of "allen bolts" and torque settings. eg: 15pc-1-2-034-Drive-allen-Hex-key-bit-socket-set-metric-CR-V-steel-4-to12mm on ebay and a torque wrench is recommended. A set of metric ring spanners (my cheaper ones are still going fine after 15 years. Containers (eg bottle of large milk bottles or Kitty litter trays) for all the fluids. Go through the manual - there are recommendations for what you need. I have a computer in my garage that I keep an ongoing list of things I have done and what needs doing.
Don't adjust anything ... yet. The bike was probably going when it stopped. Looks mechanically cared for. Check youtube for cleaning fuel injectors. Sent my first lot (K100) in to the shop ($120) Did the second lot (K1100 in approx 40mins.
Be very careful when you don't finish one task, have to wait for parts, and then start another job. If your garage is a "multi-function centre" like mine... things go wandering. Given the price of some of these parts you don't want to lose them.
Was impressed with the condition of the tank. Sure the fuel will stink. But thankfully the hoses seemed good (proper fuel used). Your oil filter too suggests that previous owner either took it to the shop or looked after it (present patina excused).
These are well built bikes - the birkenstock sandal of the motorcycle world (form debatable, function and engineering mostly very strong). Once all the fluids and perishables are sorted it will go. And that rust and corrosion... it'll buff out.
I don't remember the mileage of your bike.
Enjoy
Guy
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Thank you for the suggestions, Vespa. You certainly may, and I do appreciate them. Now that I have my Clymer manual I feel like I can do anything necessary. I'm very mechanical I just lack experience with working on vehicles. I'm so excited to be working on this bike that it's all I think about these days.
Here's my current progress:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/91686a17cf1aa7074734c88012dea853.jpg)
It's not much but I don't get a whole lot of time every day to work on it. Now that I can see so much of the frame, and I'll be removing the tank, I'm tempted to remove it and have it repainted. What do y'all think?
I started cleaning the front brake disks and they're looking good. Thanks again, Laitch, for the recommendations! I think there may have been a leak on one of the brake lines by the caliper. I'm going to try to find some braided stainless steel lines to replace them with.
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Cover the opening on top of your fuel tank. Painter's masking tape will do.
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The frames are know for getting surface rust... someone alluded to the micron thick paint as the problem. If you look at some of the project bikes that have been finished, a painted frame looks wonderful.
Anyone else note the comment: "I'm so excited to be working on this bike that it's all I think about these days." Sound familiar? Ah yes.... The Fever. Another widow to the workshop.
Have you got brake pressure on the front brake lever? If you need to service the master cylinder, hopefully the piston rubbers are good and you can re-use it. (there is a small grub screw holding it in... do your research re: piston flying out of the bore ...finger needed). Of course this hasn't happened to me yet. I neglected to learn about the grub screw and was on the internet looking to replace the whole MC. Saved!
You said "It's not much". BS. Wait until it's all sorted and you really get going. Plenty of power and speed. I find it very amusing racing past some cars on the freeway near me on a "Historic Vehicle". Am yet to get into the very high revs...(fine) tuning work needed.
Keep the up dates coming
Guy
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Cover the opening on top of your fuel tank. Painter's masking tape will do.
I only uncovered it for the pic :)
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I would get it running first, before spending money on cosmetics.
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Is that rust,iron oxide on that disc?
Mine's worn out,old as, been through hell but never "rusted".I assumed it was stainless steel!
The obvious answer is the one you've assumed but,well,,,, I'd try and reclaim it using care and a bit of emery cloth to see if there are pits under that crud...Would shag out pads.Chances are a Saftey inspecter would fail it,of course but what I'd be concerned with is:Will it crack up on hard use?will it stop the back end from overtaking the front end in the "oh shit"moment?(down hill gravel)Will it sieze up unexpectedly...?I guess funny money would cure those worries,they cost a lot(to me)...good luck.
Eff it,just spotted page three!was on page two...You need new discs!
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To appease my curiosity. Where has this bike been stored? I am thinking near the coast... maybe a few winds to transport salty air or salty rain. The internals seem fine, the externals ... well "over 70s tinderesque"...seen better days
S'pose you could sand the discs clean by putting some wet and dry between the pads and the disc and rotating the wheel and applying pressure. Then when clean, cross hatch the disc like you do to a cylinder bore.
When I get squealing disc brakes (MTB, car, MC) I get a sheet of fine grit wet and dry and lay it over a sheet of reinforced glass (the flattest surface in the shed) and sand the crud off the pad surface as well as cross hatching the disc. Finish off with brake cleaner. It works.
One time, I couldn't get replacement rotors for a front wheel drive in time. There was a pronounced lip on the edge of the rotor. So I jacked up the car, put it in first and got the angle grinder and took the lip off ... easily :) (Laitch imogee HERE). Did the job. Disc replaced within a week or so. (No big mountains near me). Please don't think I'm flippant when it comes to brakes - firm believer in being able to stop before you go.
Anonymous
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I would get it running first, before spending money on cosmetics.
That was my original plan so maybe I'll just stick to it.
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Have you got brake pressure on the front brake lever? If you need to service the master cylinder, hopefully the piston rubbers are good and you can re-use it. (there is a small grub screw holding it in... do your research re: piston flying out of the bore ...finger needed). Of course this hasn't happened to me yet. I neglected to learn about the grub screw and was on the internet looking to replace the whole MC. Saved!
You said "It's not much". BS. Wait until it's all sorted and you really get going. Plenty of power and speed. I find it very amusing racing past some cars on the freeway near me on a "Historic Vehicle". Am yet to get into the very high revs...(fine) tuning work needed.
Keep the up dates coming
Guy
Thanks for letting me know about the grub screw. There is ZERO pressure on the front brake lever. I believe the fluid is empty, possibly due to the PO starting a brake job and never finishing. I assume this because the front right caliper is loose, as if he started removing it and never finished.
I was referring to my progress so far when I said "it's not much" :D I know this bike will have all the power and speed I'll ever need.
Is that rust,iron oxide on that disc?
Mine's worn out,old as, been through hell but never "rusted".I assumed it was stainless steel!
The obvious answer is the one you've assumed but,well,,,, I'd try and reclaim it using care and a bit of emery cloth to see if there are pits under that crud...Would shag out pads.Chances are a Saftey inspecter would fail it,of course but what I'd be concerned with is:Will it crack up on hard use?will it stop the back end from overtaking the front end in the "oh shit"moment?(down hill gravel)Will it sieze up unexpectedly...?I guess funny money would cure those worries,they cost a lot(to me)...good luck.
Eff it,just spotted page three!was on page two...You need new discs!
I was able to spend a little time cleaning up the front disks yesterday and there aren't any pits on them. They actually cleaned up pretty nicely IMO. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/16961f8ef1e8e78282a1b7a82b902ab2.jpg)
To appease my curiosity. Where has this bike been stored? I am thinking near the coast... maybe a few winds to transport salty air or salty rain. The internals seem fine, the externals ... well "over 70s tinderesque"...seen better days
S'pose you could sand the discs clean by putting some wet and dry between the pads and the disc and rotating the wheel and applying pressure. Then when clean, cross hatch the disc like you do to a cylinder bore.
When I get squealing disc brakes (MTB, car, MC) I get a sheet of fine grit wet and dry and lay it over a sheet of reinforced glass (the flattest surface in the shed) and sand the crud off the pad surface as well as cross hatching the disc. Finish off with brake cleaner. It works.
One time, I couldn't get replacement rotors for a front wheel drive in time. There was a pronounced lip on the edge of the rotor. So I jacked up the car, put it in first and got the angle grinder and took the lip off ... easily :) (Laitch imogee HERE). Did the job. Disc replaced within a week or so. (No big mountains near me). Please don't think I'm flippant when it comes to brakes - firm believer in being able to stop before you go.
Anonymous
You're absolutely correct...near the coast. I live a mile from the beach near Monterey, CA and the previous owner lived even closer to the water.
I'm going to remove the rotors so I can properly clean the inside surface and once I get them clean I'll post some pics so I can get yall's opinion.
Thanks everyone for your advice!
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I was able to spend a little time cleaning up the front disks yesterday and there aren't any pits on them. They actually cleaned up pretty nicely IMO.
Are their thickness measurements within specification?
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If the bike is still near the coast, Martin and I (living in Aust) will vouch for a product INOX.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INOX-MX3-Anti-corrosion-Anti-Moisture-Lubricant-300g-Spray-/221885503238?hash=item33a9681706:g:6vEAAOSwymxVP4b4
It is basically a marine version of WD-40. It leaves a light oil but is good for stopping further surface rust. WD will dry out (good for bicycle chains)
Stepping up another level, there are the rust converters etc but also something the local hardware sells:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121954393855?lpid=107&chn=ps.
It might do in the interim until the bike is again disassembled and repainted.
See the exemplary father and son project on this forum for ideas. Makes me think of the first day back at school: "What did you do in the holidays?" Hung out at the mall. What about you? ... Rebuilt and repainted a 750cc motorbike with Dad?
With an attention span like that, I'm wondering if the boy's on the spectrum.
Laitch: how are you html-ing links? I feel like a luddite pasting the whole URL in. (ref: some of your earlier and copious posts - here and elsewhere)
Regards
Guy
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I thought you liked ludditism, Guy—that you lived for it, in fact. :hehehe
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Laitch: how are you html-ing links? I feel like a luddite pasting the whole URL in.
Ah so it isn't just me...
I kinda know how to write HTML and yet everything I have tried doesn't work...
Oh wise Laitch - won't you share your wisdom with us, pretty please Master? :clap: :yes
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Thanks Laitch.
I'm not proud - give me low tech over high tech... seems to last longer and possess a certain patina and sangfroid
Mind you, love a cheap gadget from China
Now about the html caper...
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Oh wise Laitch - won't you share your wisdom with us, pretty please Master? :clap: :yes
Sycophancy. It's got a certain charm.
I found how to do it on this site's help page, I think. Maybe it was part of a dream visitation. I just sent Guy a pm describing the process. It was so well written and beautifully composed I doubt if I can duplicate it and be satisfied.
If it works, maybe Guy will share it.
I almost certain he'll respond well to fawning. :giggles
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You guys are cracking me up! I've done the HTML link "trick" before but can't remember how. Maybe Vespa will enlighten us all once he gets it down.
Are their thickness measurements within specification?
Yes. One of the disks measures .187" and the other .191". Do they need to be exactly the same? I'm going to check the pads and replace them if necessary. I removed the rear wheel, rotor, and pads yesterday. The pads are shot. One of them almost completely gone. I know there's a brake pad thread so I'll check it to see what the cool kids are using ;)
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One of the disks measures .187" and the other .191". Do they need to be exactly the same?
No, they just need to be within spec.
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No, they just need to be within spec.
Excellent. Thank you
If the bike is still near the coast, Martin and I (living in Aust) will vouch for a product INOX.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INOX-MX3-Anti-corrosion-Anti-Moisture-Lubricant-300g-Spray-/221885503238?hash=item33a9681706:g:6vEAAOSwymxVP4b4
It is basically a marine version of WD-40. It leaves a light oil but is good for stopping further surface rust. WD will dry out (good for bicycle chains)
Stepping up another level, there are the rust converters etc but also something the local hardware sells:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121954393855?lpid=107&chn=ps.
It might do in the interim until the bike is again disassembled and repainted.
See the exemplary father and son project on this forum for ideas. Makes me think of the first day back at school: "What did you do in the holidays?" Hung out at the mall. What about you? ... Rebuilt and repainted a 750cc motorbike with Dad?
With an attention span like that, I'm wondering if the boy's on the spectrum.
Regards
Guy
Thank you for this! I'll look into it
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MaraudeRS, my bike is 6 years older than yours.. 61,000 miles when I got it. Had been sitting for 9 years but corrosion free....just dusty. My brakes were fine. Replaced pads...EBC organic, if memory serves. Showed my brake lines to a bike mechanic. Original units with the little date bands on them. He said they were fine and have been for almost 2 years. You can polish and paint those engine casings if you so choose. I would do the frame myself. No need to pay a pro for that unless you want something funky. As was mentioned you will likely find that the various components improve with use. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder. It stopped leaking. The engine tended to get smoother and happier the more I rode it.
One more thing, in my humble o. Don't worry so much about cost (within reason). You are resurrecting not just any old motorbike rather a piece of motorcycle history....and a fine German marque at that. I'm no BMW snob but do a little research on the history of this thing and your appreciation for what you have will increase. It's not an investment. It's a labour of love. At the end of it you will have a unique, slightly odd-looking, fun and reliable companion that will take you way over 100,000 miles. I've got a Kawasaki Concours (same format as my RT) that is a fine machine. But I just had to get a Brick for that whacky engine and all the other weird features that BMWs have.
You've heard it before but I'll say it again. Don't take two wheels for granted. Things can get out of hand in a hurry on a bike and that's just on your own. Throw cars into the equation and the risk level spikes considerably. Take the training. Start small (you can always sell off a small bike), really feel what the machine is doing and take things slow!! Speed and poor road surfaces (oil, gravel, sand, black ice) will take you down. Having said that there is nothing quite like motorcycling. Once you love it you love it for life. Make sure you live to ride another day!
One more little hint...if you go to replace the rear brake rotor the manufacturer apparently used permanent (red ?) Loctite on those bolts. They need to be heated up to remove them without stripping out the head....this according to the foul-mouthed but beloved Beemer mechanic, Chris Harris (Affordable Beemer Services). You've gotta view his stuff!
Good luck!
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MaraudeRS, my bike is 6 years older than yours.. 61,000 miles when I got it. Had been sitting for 9 years but corrosion free....just dusty. My brakes were fine. Replaced pads...EBC organic, if memory serves. Showed my brake lines to a bike mechanic. Original units with the little date bands on them. He said they were fine and have been for almost 2 years. You can polish and paint those engine casings if you so choose. I would do the frame myself. No need to pay a pro for that unless you want something funky. As was mentioned you will likely find that the various components improve with use. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder. It stopped leaking. The engine tended to get smoother and happier the more I rode it.
One more thing, in my humble o. Don't worry so much about cost (within reason). You are resurrecting not just any old motorbike rather a piece of motorcycle history....and a fine German marque at that. I'm no BMW snob but do a little research on the history of this thing and your appreciation for what you have will increase. It's not an investment. It's a labour of love. At the end of it you will have a unique, slightly odd-looking, fun and reliable companion that will take you way over 100,000 miles. I've got a Kawasaki Concours (same format as my RT) that is a fine machine. But I just had to get a Brick for that whacky engine and all the other weird features that BMWs have.
You've heard it before but I'll say it again. Don't take two wheels for granted. Things can get out of hand in a hurry on a bike and that's just on your own. Throw cars into the equation and the risk level spikes considerably. Take the training. Start small (you can always sell off a small bike), really feel what the machine is doing and take things slow!! Speed and poor road surfaces (oil, gravel, sand, black ice) will take you down. Having said that there is nothing quite like motorcycling. Once you love it you love it for life. Make sure you live to ride another day!
One more little hint...if you go to replace the rear brake rotor the manufacturer apparently used permanent (red ?) Loctite on those bolts. They need to be heated up to remove them without stripping out the head....this according to the foul-mouthed but beloved Beemer mechanic, Chris Harris (Affordable Beemer Services). You've gotta view his stuff!
Good luck!
Kris, thank you very much much for your fantastic post! I'm hoping you're right about the brake lines and they don't need to be replaced but I'll find out as soon as I get them full of fluid. I just ordered some EBC semi-sintered pads, hopefully that was a good choice.
As far as the budget goes, I'm willing to spend far more than the bike is "worth" because it's worth it to me. I constantly see visions in my head of what I want it to look like when I'm done.
I ordered and received my EBC MD661 rear brake but it doesn't look like the one I removed so I have to figure out why they're different. Maybe someone can enlighten me? The rotor itself is fine but it's the piece that's attached that's different.
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Post pictures of both. One could be for ABS.
Regards Martin.
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My old one:(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161121/450e910e74c3beb46d24c6daec5976cb.jpg)
And the one I purchased:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161121/f549213f348430689ef23027fcfa8b6b.jpg)
Did I screw up/get screwed?
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The new one isn't for an ABS bike, your one is.
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There are at least 5 manufacturers for BMW discs and carriers EBC, Grimeca, Brembo, Goodridge and Metal Gear, and they all look different. Did you get instructions with the disc, it should tell you to remove the toothed ABS wheel and refit on your new carrier. On the front discs the toothed ABS wheel comes off and is transferred to the new disc. Have a look to see if this is the case, also compare measurements between the two.
Regards Martin.
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Your new rotor is for a different model. I don't know which, but the giveaway is the bobbons that allow the disc to float, as well as the holes in disc itself. Could be for a K1100.
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The new one isn't for an ABS bike, your one is.
Dang it! I'm gonna have to see if the seller falsely advertised it or if I messed up. If it's my fault then it's showing up in the classifieds shortly.
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I have bought front EBC ones that look the same. Instructions say to remove the toothed wheel by undoing the three screws. Looking at your new one they have the 3 screws for mounting the toothed ABS wheel. I am going from a solid disc to a fully floating, I don't have ABS and it states that they will fit. I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.
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I have bought front EBC ones that look the same. Instructions say to remove the toothed wheel by undoing the three screws. Looking at your new one they have the 3 screws for mounting the toothed ABS wheel. I am going from a solid disc to a fully floating, I don't have ABS and it states that they will fit. I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.
Thank you, Martin. I'll see if this is the correct unit before I jump the gun and sell it. Unfortunately it didn't come with instructions so I'll have to see if some are available online.
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I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.Unfortunately it didn't come with instructions so I'll have to see if some are available online.
One task that can be done in the meantime, Maurader, is to measure the width—not diameter—of the toothed wheel, measure the width of the old assembly including the toothed wheel, measure the width of the new assembly, measure the width of the place where the old tooth wheel would fit on it to ascertain that the toothed wheel would not interfere with bike wheel/rotor assembly, compare the width of the new assembly to the old assembly's width. You could also heat the toothed wheel screw areas on the old wheel with a propane torch, mapp torch or heat gun and give a try at loosening those toothed wheel screws without damaging them.
This task will serve as practice in calculation, comparison and seized-screw loosening technique—if nothing else.
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:2thumbup: I've gone back and forth over the pictures and I think the new one will fit, but as Laitch and I have said measure it. I think what has thrown you off is the bobbins. With both discs on a flat surface measure down from the surface with the countersunk screw holes to the surface measure the inner hole diameter, measure the thickness of the part with the inner hole. Then compare diameters. I got mine really cheap and when they arrived I thought I had the wrong ones. :yow But once I measured them the key measurements were identical.
Regards Martin.
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:2thumbup: I've gone back and forth over the pictures and I think the new one will fit, but as Laitch and I have said measure it. I think what has thrown you off is the bobbins. With both discs on a flat surface measure down from the surface with the countersunk screw holes to the surface measure the inner hole diameter, measure the thickness of the part with the inner hole. Then compare diameters. I got mine really cheap and when they arrived I thought I had the wrong ones. :yow But once I measured them the key measurements were identical.
Regards Martin.
Thank you very much!
One task that can be done in the meantime, Maurader, is to measure the width—not diameter—of the toothed wheel, measure the width of the old assembly including the toothed wheel, measure the width of the new assembly, measure the width of the place where the old tooth wheel would fit on it to ascertain that the toothed wheel would not interfere with bike wheel/rotor assembly, compare the width of the new assembly to the old assembly's width. You could also heat the toothed wheel screw areas on the old wheel with a propane torch, mapp torch or heat gun and give a try at loosening those toothed wheel screws without damaging them.
This task will serve as practice in calculation, comparison and seized-screw loosening technique—if nothing else.
And thank you very much!
It worked. The screws came off without even needing to heat them up and that's what was throwing me off. I had to practically melt the ring and pry it with a crowbar in order to get it off of the old brake. I was able to clean it up pretty nicely and it slid right onto the new brake.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/7d4afff8068352aaf1e974e51ecb21b1.jpg)
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That is great - I am so glad I was wrong... (now if you can find a way to make my wife say something similar you are destined for greatness!)
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What planet are you on, my wife thought she was wrong once but she was mistaken. A long pain free and happy marriage is based on your ability to always admit it is your fault. :hehehe
Regards a very wise Martin.
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Marauder when I got my discs I emailed EBC to see what pads to get as I was sick of chopping out discs. The new EBC discs are now made of a harder material than was previously used. They recommended EBC organic if I wanted maximum disc life.
Regards Martin.
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The brick motor at 11:1 compression and fuel shut off provides ample engine braking.Ive been eking my brakes out for judicial use only... :clap:
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Dude EBC stated that previous discs had not been hardened, and one would assume that they would not have switched material if there wasn't a problem. Last 2 sets were Metal Gear, I have since been told low quality made in China. I wasn't chewing through pads just discs, a set of discs to a set of pads.
Regards Martin.
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Thank you Martin & Laitch! I couldn't have done it without your guidance. I measured with & without the ring and they match up. It's little victories like this that'll keep me lovin this project.
I'm still waiting for my gas cap rebuild kit and gasket to arrive so my next task is to empty the vinegar out of the fuel tank, pull the fuel pump, and check the sump. I'll clean the pump while it's out and hopefully everything won't need replacing.
I'm also going to be replacing the spark plugs very soon. I'm thinking I should replace the wires also. Is there an aftermarket brand that i should look into? I like to try to upgrade things as I replace them.
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Marauder you need to put where you live and what bikes you own on your title page. I live in OZ so leads here might be too expensive. I do know one thing OEM are super dear here, close to $300.00 Au. You do need resistor leads 5 Ohm, NGK do a 5 Ohm cap either at 45 deg or 90 deg you can get them to fit spark plugs with or without spark plug nuts. Failure to fit resistor leads will blow the ignition module. I have always wondered whether you can fit standard leads and just fit resistor spark plugs maybe RBM, Inge or Kenny Bobby may have an answer to this question.
Regards Martin.
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Marauder you need to put where you live and what bikes you own on your title page. I live in OZ so leads here might be too expensive. I do know one thing OEM are super dear here, close to $300.00 Au. You do need resistor leads 5 Ohm, NGK do a 5 Ohm cap either at 45 deg or 90 deg you can get them to fit spark plugs with or without spark plug nuts. Failure to fit resistor leads will blow the ignition module. I have always wondered whether you can fit standard leads and just fit resistor spark plugs maybe RBM, Inge or Kenny Bobby may have an answer to this question.
Regards Martin.
Done.
$300 is nuts! I was looking at these http://www.bskspeedworks.co.uk/ram-power-leads.html for $74 US. Obviously I'll have to pay shipping from the UK but that'll still be less than $300. I'll look into the NGK wires. Thanks
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Do you know your plug wires are bad? Why not wait to see how the bike runs after you have taken care of the obvious issues? There are an awful lot of these bikes out there running the original wires. Right now, I would put my money where I can get the best bang for it.
Speaking of bang for the buck, seriously consider these pads. I have over 20,000 miles on one set and around 5-7,000 miles each on two more sets. They squeak occasionally, but otherwise have worked extremely well. Also, being carbon/kevlar organic pads they are about as gentle on our expensive discs as you can get. And yes, that price is for all three calipers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-BMW-K100RS-16-valve-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-/161709597631?hash=item25a6a4a3bf:g:~fAAAOSwhcJWHvb6&vxp=mtr
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Do you know your plug wires are bad? Why not wait to see how the bike runs after you have taken care of the obvious issues? There are an awful lot of these bikes out there running the original wires. Right now, I would put my money where I can get the best bang for it.
Speaking of bang for the buck, seriously consider these pads. I have over 20,000 miles on one set and around 5-7,000 miles each on two more sets. They squeak occasionally, but otherwise have worked extremely well. Also, being carbon/kevlar organic pads they are about as gentle on our expensive discs as you can get. And yes, that price is for all three calipers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-BMW-K100RS-16-valve-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-/161709597631?hash=item25a6a4a3bf:g:~fAAAOSwhcJWHvb6&vxp=mtr
That's an excellent point. I don't know that the wires are bad so I'll spend the money elsewhere until I know they are. I got one of the spark plugs pulled just now and this is what I see. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/ac0a6517fd76627f3444e4ad0dce05b9.jpg)
Glad I'm replacing them! Lol
As far as brake pads goes, I've already ordered the EBC semi-sintered pads for the rear. I haven't done anything with the front yet so I'll look into those for the fronts. Thanks!
In other news, I pumped out the vinegar from the fuel tank and it looks fantastic. Thanks for the recommendation Filmcamera and Gryphon!
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Another big kudos to Laitch for recommending I pull the fuel pump and check the sump...it was full of crap.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/d21ec78fff4f761a35c2090ed003e0d2.jpg)
While I had the pump out I cleaned it up real pretty and cleaned out the screen. It had a bunch of gunk built up around it so I scraped it clean.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/6fc86681e1f7627f2294eb4042a0f8b8.jpg)l
I also replaced the fuel filter. I blew thru it and it felt a lot more restricted than the new one that came with the bike. The PO must have intended to replace it and never got around to it.
Stupid question alert! Can I run the motor without the fuel cap completely sealed? I'm still waiting for the seal to arrive but I'd like to run the engine asap so I can order anything that I'll be needing.
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You can run it but I wouldn't ride it unless you want your nether regions soaked in fuel. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
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You can run it but I wouldn't ride it unless you want your nether regions soaked in fuel. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
:hehehe Ok thanks. Hopefully I'll have some time to get the spark plugs replaced tomorrow then I'll fire it up :clap:
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Throw half of a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in the tank with a couple gallons of no ethanol gas if you can get it. If there are a lot of miles on it you might want to dump a bottle of SeaFoam in the crankcase to clean the sprag. Then fire it up and let it run about 5 minutes until it's hot and shut it down to cool off. Do this a couple times a day while you are working on it and you will go a long way toward cleaning out the crap that may have built up in the injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
Once the bike is on the road, run it about 20-30 miles and change out the oil with the SeaFoam in it and replace with good synthetic and a new filter. I like to use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic SAE 5W-40 that I get at Walmart for $21 a gallon. I use a Carquest filter #85348 that is less than $5. Another good filter is the AC PF-53.
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. . .unless you want your nether regions soaked in fuel.
I had a friend in the Peace Corp who served in the neither regions. She said it was almost impossible to find good fuel but it was still enjoyable down there.
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:clap: :hehehe
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Depending on how much time you've got....
I pulled the tank off my stinking K1100, white vinegar (6Litres) for 2-3 days and wiped / scraped it out. Then I got the hose to it and flushed grit and crap out through the fuel sender (sensor) hole. Then in the sun to dry out. Then I vacuumed it. Clean result.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg62701.html#msg62701
Your fuel pump and screen look reusable. Had to bodge my screen (some fine brass mesh laying around and some tie wire twisted tight). Fuel filter off Holden Commodore (utilitarian Australian equivalent of a chevy). Just want to check if the bike will run... when I get round to it.
Like i said before: internals on our bike seem good, externals well salted.
GF
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Throw half of a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in the tank with a couple gallons of no ethanol gas if you can get it. If there are a lot of miles on it you might want to dump a bottle of SeaFoam in the crankcase to clean the sprag. Then fire it up and let it run about 5 minutes until it's hot and shut it down to cool off. Do this a couple times a day while you are working on it and you will go a long way toward cleaning out the crap that may have built up in the injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
Once the bike is on the road, run it about 20-30 miles and change out the oil with the SeaFoam in it and replace with good synthetic and a new filter. I like to use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic SAE 5W-40 that I get at Walmart for $21 a gallon. I use a Carquest filter #85348 that is less than $5. Another good filter is the AC PF-53.
The bike has 41k miles on it. Do you think I need the SeaFoam? I already put the new oil filter in and Mobil 1 oil so can I do the SeaFoam at the next oil change?
Depending on how much time you've got....
I pulled the tank off my stinking K1100, white vinegar (6Litres) for 2-3 days and wiped / scraped it out. Then I got the hose to it and flushed grit and crap out through the fuel sender (sensor) hole. Then in the sun to dry out. Then I vacuumed it. Clean result.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg62701.html#msg62701
Your fuel pump and screen look reusable. Had to bodge my screen (some fine brass mesh laying around and some tie wire twisted tight). Fuel filter off Holden Commodore (utilitarian Australian equivalent of a chevy). Just want to check if the bike will run... when I get round to it.
Like i said before: internals on our bike seem good, externals well salted.
GF
Yes, I did the vinegar treatment for a few days and the inside of the tank looks great. Got the spark plugs replaced yesterday (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/2acb3f2abdd20fa646dac1e220c14c6b.jpg)
but I forgot to pick up some gas on my way home so I'll hopefully be able to do it this morning before our Thanksgiving festivities begin.
Happy Thanksgiving, fellow Americans!
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Don't do the SeaFoam in the crankcase now that you have the good oil in there. I wouldn't leave it in there for more than an hour or so of engine running time before doing an oil change. Wait until a day or so before the next oil change.
I would still do the Techron in the gas. You don't know how much varnish has collected in the fuel system and you want to get it out of there. The auto parts places around me have it on sale now, buy-one-get-one-free.
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Don't do the SeaFoam in the crankcase now that you have the good oil in there. I wouldn't leave it in there for more than an hour or so of engine running time before doing an oil change. Wait until a day or so before the next oil change.
I would still do the Techron in the gas. You don't know how much varnish has collected in the fuel system and you want to get it out of there. The auto parts places around me have it on sale now, buy-one-get-one-free.
Sounds good, thx. Funny story, I bought a bottle of the Techron at Autozone when you first told me about it and I think it was around $10, then I go to Costco about a week ago and they had a case of 6 for around $20! Needless to say, I now have lots of it.
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Fuel filter off Holden Commodore (utilitarian Australian equivalent of a chevy). Just want to check if the bike will run... when I get round to it.
Careful, K bikes have special needs when it comes to fuel filters.
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Can I replace my tires myself or is it like a car where I should have a shop do it? I saw some wheel protectors on eBay for like $7 so that made me think it was something guys do themselves.
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Can I replace my tires myself or is it like a car where I should have a shop do it? I saw some wheel protectors on eBay for like $7 so that made me think it was something guys do themselves.
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It is possible to replace tires on a motorbike wheel using a couple of tire levers.I have refrained from doing this myself for years because of the risk of damaging the seal of tubeless tires to the wheel rim.Our tires,here,cost a fortune and the vendors include a fitting and ballancing service.All the best,though.
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It is possible to replace tires on a motorbike wheel using a couple of tire levers.I have refrained from doing this myself for years because of the risk of damaging the seal of tubeless tires to the wheel rim.Our tires,here,cost a fortune and the vendors include a fitting and ballancing service.All the best,though.
Thx, Dude. I'll take them to a shop to make sure I don't mess anything up.
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I'm currently trying to start the brick and it won't fire up. I can't get the neutral light to come on so I'm wondering if that's the cause. I know how to put it in neutral but the light doesn't come on. Am I doing something wrong or is something wrong with the bike?
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Re: tire changing. I do my own, been doing them myself since I rode dirt bikes 40 years ago. Not sure I would recommend learning how to change tires on a good alloy rim.
Some places will charge up to $60 to mount and balance a tire, while others will do it for free. Ask around. Buy the tire from the shop where you have it mounted. Bring your wheel in so they don't have to do the removal/installation. I had a Shinko Tourmaster installed on the front of my K75RT at a shop in Salt Lake City while I was touring last summer. Total cost was $75 for the tire, mounting and balance.
Sounds like your gear position indicator switch is not working. Does the starter motor turn? Or does the engine not fire? Will the starter turn when you pull in the clutch?
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i wil just pre empt the next couple of posts from the kaumatua of our site.
we need details
turn the key on, what have you got? lights on dash? fuel pump primes?
push the button, what happens? does it turn over? cough? almost start? etc
Kaumātua are elders in Māori society. Male elders are also known as koroua (or koro for short), and female elders as kuia. Whether a person can be considered a kaumātua depends on age, knowledge of tribal history and traditions, and the presence of other potential elders for younger generations to turn to.
am enjoying your thread. as you learn, we all learn
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Re: tire changing. I do my own, been doing them myself since I rode dirt bikes 40 years ago. Not sure I would recommend learning how to change tires on a good alloy rim.
Some places will charge up to $60 to mount and balance a tire, while others will do it for free. Ask around. Buy the tire from the shop where you have it mounted. Bring your wheel in so they don't have to do the removal/installation. I had a Shinko Tourmaster installed on the front of my K75RT at a shop in Salt Lake City while I was touring last summer. Total cost was $75 for the tire, mounting and balance.
Sounds like your gear position indicator switch is not working. Does the starter motor turn? Or does the engine not fire? Will the starter turn when you pull in the clutch?
The starter motor does turn when I pull the clutch but the engine doesn't turn over. All I can hear is the starter trying to fire up the engine. I'm thinking it's a fuel problem, in my limited knowledge. The spark plug ends on my new plugs don't match the ones I pulled out so I went to Napa auto parts and bought some that did. Here's what I mean (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/14b8c1f9da207a0fdcb86cee20a6432c.jpg)
Could that be the issue?
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i wil just pre empt the next couple of posts from the kaumatua of our site.
we need details
turn the key on, what have you got? lights on dash? fuel pump primes?
push the button, what happens? does it turn over? cough? almost start? etc
Kaumātua are elders in Māori society. Male elders are also known as koroua (or koro for short), and female elders as kuia. Whether a person can be considered a kaumātua depends on age, knowledge of tribal history and traditions, and the presence of other potential elders for younger generations to turn to.
am enjoying your thread. as you learn, we all learn
Here's what the dash does:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/507480ebb82c7c6e8ba32cfefce62b49.jpg)
Headlight comes on, neutral light does not come on. I hear a clunking noise in the fuel tank but it doesn't sound like a car fuel pump coming on. Is that a problem?
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Could that be the issue?
Yes, that is one possibility of many. See if the knob from the Bosch will fit the NGK. It's almost 2017. Post an audio file of the sound you're hearing.
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When you say the engine doesn't turn over do you mean that the starter just spins without turning the engine or do you mean the engine turns but won't start?
If the engine is turning but not firing, are the plugs wet when you pull them out? Assuming the engine is turning we need to determine if the failure to start is fuel or spark related.
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Just noticed you have a 1992 RS. If the engine isn't firing it might also be a problem with the sidestand switch. You don't have the sidestand down do you?
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This thread is starting to get exciting. That shows what kind of day I've had.
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When you say the engine doesn't turn over do you mean that the starter just spins without turning the engine or do you mean the engine turns but won't start?
If the engine is turning but not firing, are the plugs wet when you pull them out? Assuming the engine is turning we need to determine if the failure to start is fuel or spark related.
The starter spins without turning the engine. Theres a little bit of oil on the plugs when I pull them.
Just noticed you have a 1992 RS. If the engine isn't firing it might also be a problem with the sidestand switch. You don't have the sidestand down do you?
No, it's on the center stand right now.
Yes, that is one possibility of many. See if the knob from the Bosch will fit the NGK. It's almost 2017. Post an audio file of the sound you're hearing.
Yes they fit so I'll start removing them from the cheap plugs and installing them on the NGKs. Thx
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This thread is starting to get exciting. That shows what kind of day I've had.
Haha I'm grateful that you're excited about this :hehehe
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I'm grateful that you're excited about this
Don't waste time replying. Go put up the side stand, change the plug ends, record the clunk and come back here with some more excitement!
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Don't waste time replying. Go put up the side stand, change the plug ends, record the clunk and come back here with some more excitement!
It's on the center stand not side stand. It won't start on the center stand?
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It won't start on the center stand?
What did you think Gryph meant in his last post? If the side stand is up, go change the plug ends or put the old plugs in, and record the clunk. I can't stand this level of anticipation much longer.
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Killed the battery. Recharging now. I put the side stand down and my neutral indicator light still hasn't come on. I'll send a video of the fuel pump sound next
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I am confused. Does the starter turn the engine over or does it just spin itself? If the engine isn't turning the sprag isn't working. If the sprag isn't working why are we farting around with the plugs?
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The starter just spins itself, no engine turn over. I'm not sure if it's a fuel issue tho. I'll have to look into what the sprag is and why it would keep the engine from firing up. Thx
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When you say the engine doesn't turn over do you mean the engine won't fire, or do you mean the starter isn't turning the crank shaft? This makes a BIG difference in where to be looking for problems.
The neutral indicator is a separate issue. All it does is stop the starter from running when the transmission is in gear. As long as the starter is turning now I would ignore the fact that the green neutral indicator isn't coming on.
The side stand on 4 valve engines stops the spark when it is down. it must be up to get the plugs to spark and ignite the fuel. The centerstand is NOT interlocked to the ignition. The engine can be started when the bike is on the centerstand.
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The engine won't fire. All I hear is the starter trying to start the engine.
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Looks like the mechanical sprag clutch is slipping so doesn't "grip" the internal combustion crank shaft so not turning the engine or as we used to say cranking it.
I "bump"start my bike regularly,ie switch the key ignition on,kill switch in the run position,select second or third gear and get some body to push you at speed with the clutch pulled in and at some point when the pusher is about to collapse with exhaustion release the clutch lever to get the motor cranking.(push start).Normally this would fire up the motor.go for a good ride and if you switch the motor off it is convenient to do so at the top of (or part way up)a hill so you can repeat the starting procedure without the person pushing.You could take them with you,of course but....
Look up sprag clutch on this site as there are some easy if a bit hopeful ways of sorting it out...best of luck.
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Your terminology is very confusing.
When we say the engine is "turning over" or "cranking" we mean that the starter is turning the crankshaft and the valves and pistons are moving doing the mechanical stuff to start the engine. It has nothing to do with the engine firing and running. When you say your engine isn't turning over we think the crankshaft isn't turning. I have asked several times for clarification and you still can't provide it.
Simple yes/no question. Is the crankshaft turning?
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Your terminology is very confusing.
When we say the engine is "turning over" or "cranking" we mean that the starter is turning the crankshaft and the valves and pistons are moving doing the mechanical stuff to start the engine. It has nothing to do with the engine firing and running. When you say your engine isn't turning over we think the crankshaft isn't turning. I have asked several times for clarification and you still can't provide it.
Simple yes/no question. Is the crankshaft turning?
Sorry, obviously I'm extremely new to mechanics. No it isn't.
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Looks like the mechanical sprag clutch is slipping so doesn't "grip" the internal combustion crank shaft so not turning the engine or as we used to say cranking it.
I "bump"start my bike regularly,ie switch the key ignition on,kill switch in the run position,select second or third gear and get some body to push you at speed with the clutch pulled in and at some point when the pusher is about to collapse with exhaustion release the clutch lever to get the motor cranking.(push start).Normally this would fire up the motor.go for a good ride and if you switch the motor off it is convenient to do so at the top of (or part way up)a hill so you can repeat the starting procedure without the person pushing.You could take them with you,of course but....
Look up sprag clutch on this site as there are some easy if a bit hopeful ways of sorting it out...best of luck.
Thank you for this. My rear brake pads just arrived today so as soon as I get the rear wheel back on I'll try this. I need to service the front brake l, also, first before I even try to ride it. One of the screws stripped on the reservoir for the front brakes so I still need to extract it so I can service it.
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Ok, so when you push the starter button what you hear is just the whirring sound of an electric motor spinning with nothing being moved. Is that correct?
Is this whirring sound coming from behind the ignition coils where the starter motor is located?
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Where's that paper bag?
Deep breaths.
Inhale.
Exhale.
(insert Laitch-esque imogee HERE)
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Wish I knew what the heck I'm trying to help him fix.
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Ok, so when you push the starter button what you hear is just the whirring sound of an electric motor spinning with nothing being moved. Is that correct?
Is this whirring sound coming from behind the ignition coils where the starter motor is located?
That's is correct and yes.
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:popcorm
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Wish I knew what the heck I'm trying to help him fix.
Sorry, I know it's annoying.
I got the battery charged back up and now when I turn the key I don't hear anything from within the fuel tank. Could it be a bad pump? Is there a way to test it?
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. . . and now when I turn the key I don't hear anything from within the fuel tank . . .
When you turn the key, or when you push and release the starter button? What happened to the clunk? Remove the blasted cap assembly and look at the pump assembly to verify all electrical connections are secure, that the pump is mounted securely in its damper and holding ring, that the holding ring is seated securely in the sump, that the fuel filter isn't rolling around like a loose cannon or nodding like a bobblehead because only one end is connected.
Is the engine now turning over but not starting, or is the starter still whirring with no effect on the engine?
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When you turn the key, or when you push and release the starter button? What happened to the clunk? Remove the blasted cap assembly and look at the pump assembly to verify all electrical connections are secure, that the pump is mounted securely in its damper and holding ring, that the holding ring is seated securely in the sump, that the fuel filter isn't rolling around like a loose cannon.
Is the engine now turning over but not starting, or is the starter still whirring with no effect on the engine?
When I turn the key, before I hit the starter button, I get no more clunk.
The cap assembly is still off. I double checked that the pump is securely in place and all connections are secure. The filter is properly attached. The engine still doesn't turn over. The starting is whirring with no effect on the engine.
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The engine still doesn't turn over. The starting is whirring with no effect on the engine.
Then concentrate on getting the sprag clutch working. Google sprag clutch and search the Technical Library card catalog and the Technical Library here for explanations and methods. Please report back.
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Will do. Thank you and Gryph very much!
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I got the engine to turn over but it still won't fire up. I took apart the fuel hose at the rail and I'm not getting any gas. I pulled the fuel pump back out and bench tested it with a 12v battery and this is what it does:
https://vimeo.com/193431165 (https://vimeo.com/193431165)
Does it need to be replaced?
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Not good. Reverse current, shot in some wd40, soak in vinegar, or replace
Search for solutions. Recently one moto bricker took it apart and repaired.
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I got the engine to turn over but it still won't fire up
How did you get it to do that, MarauderRS, or did it just suddenly happen—like divine intervention?
As far as the pump is concerned, it can be disassembled and cleaned but cleanliness may not be its only problem. Parts may be worn beyond tolerance. If it were my bike, I'd replace it. Measure its diameter in millimeters and go shopping. Alternative pumps are listed in the Technical Library. Check the integrity of the vibration damper, too. It shouldn't be easy to deform like dough. If you get a pump with a smaller diameter, you'll need to shim it with a fuel-proof material so it fits snuggly within the damper
Other members might come forward with pumps they've used a substitutes. Try Googling K100 alternative fuel pump.
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How did you get it to do that, MarauderRS, or did it just suddenly happen—like divine intervention?
As far as the pump is concerned, it can be disassembled and cleaned but cleanliness may not be its only problem. Parts may be worn beyond tolerance. If it were my bike, I'd replace it. Measure its diameter in millimeters and go shopping. Alternative pumps are listed in the Technical Library. Check the integrity of the vibration damper, too. It shouldn't be easy to deform like dough. If you get a pump with a smaller diameter, you'll need to shim it with a fuel-proof material so it fits snuggly within the damper
Other members might come forward with pumps they've used a substitutes. Try Googling K100 alternative fuel pump.
It must have been divine intervention. That or I'm an idiot. I'm gonna go with the latter for honesty's sake :P
I'm with you on replacing it. I'd rather get one that belongs on this bike than one I'll have to "make" it work. I've seen them on eBay but I'll see if anyone needs to get one out of their way first.
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It must have been divine intervention. That or I'm an idiot. I'm gonna go with the latter for honesty's sake :P
Could you explain what happened if it was an error on your part? That might help others.
If it was just luck, well, when it is running you had better do a crankcase flush.
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Could you explain what happened if it was an error on your part? That might help others.
If it was just luck, well, when it is running you had better do a crankcase flush.
Error on my part. I didn't realize that the motor was cranking when I was trying to start it. My neighbor came over and said he could hear a little exhaust coming out of the muffler when I tried to start it so then we turned our attention to fuel. I took apart the hose, we tried starting it, and nothing came out. I pulled the pump and here we are.
I do plan on replacing every fluid in the bike so crankcase flush is on the list. Thx
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Error on my part. I didn't realize that the motor was cranking when I was trying to start it.
They don't make much commotion when turning over but you'll probably know when yours is moving. That might be one of the test questions on the MSF exam.
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They don't make much commotion when turning over but you'll probably know when yours is moving. That might be one of the test questions on the MSF exam.
Good to know. Thank you
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Now that I have to wait for my fuel pump to arrive (ordered a High Flow from eBay) I'm going to take apart the front brakes in order to clean the rotors and replace the pads, if necessary. As I take a closer look at the brakes I notice a problem. Can anyone see it? Mind you, I haven't touched anything yet.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/7d154cc84a74416ad7d3d170b4e9d772.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/a501bb8e234c350249c42adc6365d3fb.jpg)
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As I take a closer look at the brakes I notice a problem. Can anyone see it?
I can.
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I can.
I knew you would :)
It looks like the PO had started a brake job and gave up on it. I have missing screws and a stripped screw[emoji19] I'll have to check clymer and see if they identify the screws or maybe I'll get lucky at the hardware store. Any insight?
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I knew you would :)
You don't know that I actually did though. You can't know. I've noticed a tendency to jump to conclusions here.
Brembo can tell you what they are through the magic of email, or you can use a thread gauge and check for markings. You probably should take the calipers completely apart to inspect and clean the pistons and their housings. You'll need to replace the brake lines and fittings, too.
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I can.
:yow
Keep looking for more of them weight saving ideas....
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Speaking of bang for the buck, seriously consider these pads. I have over 20,000 miles on one set and around 5-7,000 miles each on two more sets. They squeak occasionally, but otherwise have worked extremely well. Also, being carbon/kevlar organic pads they are about as gentle on our expensive discs as you can get. And yes, that price is for all three calipers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-BMW-K100RS-16-valve-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-/161709597631?hash=item25a6a4a3bf:g:~fAAAOSwhcJWHvb6&vxp=mtr
Just ordered a set of these for the fronts. Thanks Gryph!
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Brembo can tell you what they are through the magic of email, or you can use a thread gauge and check for markings. You probably should take the calipers completely apart to inspect and clean the pistons and their housings. You'll need to replace the brake lines and fittings, too.
Will do. Thx!
Are there replacement brake lines and fittings that you guys have used and recommend or should I just ask google and see what she says?
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A quick eBay search yielded these https://www.ebay.com/itm/401229388307
Anyone tried them? I love that color blue but that's besides the point :)
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A quick eBay search yielded these https://www.ebay.com/itm/401229388307 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/401229388307)
Anyone tried them? I love that color blue but that's besides the point :)
If you get OEM rubber hoses, you'll have more money left over for the dozens of other parts you'll need and you'll stop well for a couple of decades if you ever get your full operators license.
This post raises a philosophical question. Should love be expended on inanimate objects and their various hues?
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If you get OEM rubber hoses, you'll have more money left over for the dozens of other parts you'll need and you'll stop well for a couple of decades if you ever get you full operators license.
This post raises a philosophical question. Should love be expended on inanimate objects and their various hues?
Then I will search out a set of OEM hoses. Thank you.
Unfortunately, we use the word "love" to mean so many things. I guess it depends on your interpretation.
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Unfortunately, we use the word "love" to mean so many things. I guess it depends on your interpretation.
Therefore it means next to nothing. Let's return to Philos, Eros and Agapē—just as soon as this bike is roadworthy. :giggles
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Therefore it means next to nothing. Let's return to Philos, Eros and Agapē—just as soon as this bike is roadworthy. :giggles
Amen to that brother!
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Take the brake hoses off and get them copied at the local brake shop. Will be the cheapest and quickest option. They might even make braided lines if bling is your thing.
Those coloured lines are a wank (Australian for excessive).
Replacement parts for BMs will get expensive.
Guy
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What planet are you on, my wife thought she was wrong once but she was mistaken. A long pain free and happy marriage is based on your ability to always admit it is your fault. :hehehe
Regards a very wise Martin.
Quite right Martin!
According to my wife the last time I was right about anything was when I told her 27 years ago that I couldn't live a/o her and asked her to marry me...
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Take the brake hoses off and get them copied at the local brake shop. Will be the cheapest and quickest option. They might even make braided lines if bling is your thing.
Those coloured lines are a wank (Australian for excessive).
Replacement parts for BMs will get expensive.
Guy
I'll call around to see if any shops in my area do this. Thx for the suggestion
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Here's one. (http://www.trivalleyhose.com/)
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Good find. Unfortunately they're 2 hours away from me. By the time you add up the fuel I'd use to get there and back, and my time, I think I'd be better off buying the Spieglers. I was doing some research on this forum and it looks like the Spieglers are widely recommended. I think I'm going to go with them.
My google searching skills are showing their weakness as I've had very little success finding oem style rubber hoses. The only ones I've found look like they'll add up to a whole lot more than the cost of the Spieglers. Besides, I like a little bling here and there ;)
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I just replaced my originals with braided stainless steel OEM knock-offs from https://www.motobins.co.uk/. Good price and delivery was £6, taking 4 days. When the wrong part arrived (my fault -- measure your existing top hose) I returned it and they sent me the correct -- no charge for mailing.
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Good find. Unfortunately they're 2 hours away from me. By the time you add up the fuel I'd use to get there and back, and my time, I think I'd be better off buying the Spieglers. I was doing some research on this forum and it looks like the Spieglers are widely recommended. I think I'm going to go with them.
My google searching skills are showing their weakness as I've had very little success finding oem style rubber hoses. The only ones I've found look like they'll add up to a whole lot more than the cost of the Spieglers. Besides, I like a little bling here and there ;)
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Check out Wunderlich. They have parts for all K-Bike models.
http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/
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Check out Wunderlich. They have parts for all K-Bike models.
http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/
None there, but thanks for that resource.
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The only ones I've found look like they'll add up to a whole lot more than the cost of the Spieglers.
At MAXBMW the OEM price and one supplier's Spiegler price seemed close to each other. That supports including vanity satisfaction with function.
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At MAXBMW the OEM price and one supplier's Spiegler price seemed close to each other. That supports including vanity satisfaction with function.
Indeed!
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I just replaced my originals with braided stainless steel OEM knock-offs from https://www.motobins.co.uk/. Good price and delivery was £6, taking 4 days. When the wrong part arrived (my fault -- measure your existing top hose) I returned it and they sent me the correct -- no charge for mailing.
This is a great resource for parts. I'll check out their brake hoses. Thx!
I've been working on the front end as I've been patiently awaiting the arrival of my new fuel pump (I found a new one on eBay for $80 then found the exact same one on amazon for $40 so I ordered it.)
I took the calipers off and apart today. I had to drill out the head of the one stripped bolt(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/8096039e1297bac1821971b62b3c4a83.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/782816f23c35374b69613904f5ce9063.jpg) and now I'll use some vice grips to remove it. I'm going to order a rebuild kit for both calipers and new bolts from motobins. I wish someone sold the parts stateside but my searches have been fruitless :/
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I have my brake rebuild parts on order from motobins. Not sure how long they'll take to get here from across the pond. I'm also still waiting for the fuel pump to arrive. Amazons 2 day shipping was way off on this one. It should be here tomorrow tho.
I had the opportunity to get the fuel cap rebuilt, tho. I had the Chris Harris video on replay as I went thru the cap with the new parts. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/c6ec0a7f5805aea38c0e1496b9cef9a9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/0b3d1d69a5c9f3cdae6ae1e3b179d298.jpg)
Cleaned it up real nice so it's ready to go!
I picked up some copper anti-seize (recommended by Chris Harris) from amazon for under $3 shipped for a half pound.
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IT'S ALIVE!! Got the new fuel pump in today and she fired up on the second try. Man it's exciting! I ran it for about 5 minutes with fuel system cleaner as Gryph suggested so I'll keep doing that each day for a while. Hear her purr...https://vimeo.com/194634376 (https://vimeo.com/194634376)
Does she sound ok to y'all or does something sound off? I'm not familiar enough with these bikes yet to know.
I also got the tires removed from the wheels so I can take them to powder coat. And I'm planning on doing the coolant flush next.
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Does she sound ok to y'all or does something sound off? I'm not familiar enough with these bikes yet to know.
Submit another recording using Dolby 2.1 Surround. I need some mild drama from this site today. Right now the bike sounds like an ordinary Brick.
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IT'S ALIVE!! Got the new fuel pump in today and she fired up on the second try. Man it's exciting! I ran it for about 5 minutes with fuel system cleaner as Gryph suggested so I'll keep doing that each day for a while. Hear her purr...
Does she sound ok to y'all or does something sound off? I'm not familiar enough with these bikes yet to know.
I also got the tires removed from the wheels so I can take them to powder coat. And I'm planning on doing the coolant flush next.
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Great stuff congrats mate!
Can you please share the link to the Amazon fuel pump you found?
Cheers,
Nods
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Nice, good job! Sounds great to me :clap:
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Great stuff congrats mate!
Can you please share the link to the Amazon fuel pump you found?
Cheers,
Nods
Absolutely. Here it is: HFP-437 - BMW K1 / K100LT / K100RS / K100RT / K75 / K75C / K75S / Ducati 851 / 888 / 907ie Intank EFI Fuel Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5MKO6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-2bsybJRD823C
Looks like it's gone up by $20 since I ordered mine as I got it for $39.98 :/
Submit another recording using Dolby 2.1 Surround. I need some mild drama from this site today. Right now the bike sounds like an ordinary Brick.
Lol! Play the video over your home stereo and you'll be able to enjoy the sweet rumbles thru your subwoofer :)
Nice, good job! Sounds great to me :clap:
Thank you!
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I need some mild drama from this site today.
If you desire drama, try CNN :bmwsmile (pizza anyone?).
Maraude, The bike sounds very good for where you are at!! YOU MUST RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO OVER REV IT!!! :yow
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Here is the $39 model: https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Intank-Pumps-K75RT-1984-1996/dp/B01D31E648/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75 (https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Intank-Pumps-K75RT-1984-1996/dp/B01D31E648/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75)ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75
Sounds very good. Perhaps the new pump whines less than the original.
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Here is the $39 model: https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Intank-Pumps-K75RT-1984-1996/dp/B01D31E648/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75 (https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Intank-Pumps-K75RT-1984-1996/dp/B01D31E648/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75)ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481124932&sr=1-8&keywords=BMW+K75
Sounds very good. Perhaps the new pump whines less than the original.
[/quote
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161207/3ca6a72718111b882c1aa944f6cb99cf.jpg)
I'm not sure when, nor why, it went up right after I purchased it.
If you desire drama, try CNN :bmwsmile (pizza anyone?).
Maraude, The bike sounds very good for where you are at!! YOU MUST RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO OVER REV IT!!! :yow
Can't...resist...revving!
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Thanks for the links! Yeah I've seen the magic of Amazon do weird things with prices...
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IT'S ALIVE!!Hear her purr...Does she sound ok to y'all or does something sound off? I'm not familiar enough with these bikes yet to know.
Sounds good but maybe one too many cylinders? :neener:
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Sounds good but maybe one too many cylinders? :neener:
There's no replacement for displacement ;)
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There's no replacement for displacement ;)
Your opening up a discussion around a whole philosophy with that statement...but I know where your going with it so I'll bite my tongue!Each to their own is what I say.
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Your opening up a discussion around a whole philosophy with that statement...but I know where your going with it . . .
How can you be sure, Dude? Maybe he's referring to beer glasses. He's never ridden a motorcycle. :falldown:
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There's no replacement for displacement ;)
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I HOPE Laitch has acquired his "light diversion" for the day :hehehe :hehehe :hehehe :hehehe :hehehe
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I will admit, I do enjoy a beer glass with a lot of displacement. Stouts and porters are my preferred poisons :)
PS. I've ridden before, just never owned a bike of my own
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I will admit, I do enjoy a beer glass with a lot of displacement. Stouts and porters are my preferred poisons :)
Well,I know my pot belly will agree with you on that one.It's a keg,not a six pack.
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Do k100rs bikes not have wheel bearing seals? I removed the front wheel to have it powder coated and there is no seal in front of the bearing.
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If you can see the pressed metal cage that the balls are contained within you are right to question them.Some bearings have a metal shield out side this cage.Still not good enough.
My front wheel bearings are sealed both sides of each bearing with a rubber type material.The bearing should have the alphanumeric 2 RS at the end of the coded size designation to describe the bearing part#sealed status.
Mine are a common size and can be had cheaply from an engineering bearing vendor.
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Do k100rs bikes not have wheel bearing seals? I removed the front wheel to have it powder coated and there is no seal in front of the bearing.
To help answer that question for yourself, go to the MAXBMW parts fiche for your bike's model and year, MaraudeRS.
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To help answer that question for yourself, go to the MAXBMW parts fiche for your bike's model and year, MaraudeRS.
Now where's the fun in that? Not to mention the lack of conversation.
If you can see the pressed metal cage that the balls are contained within you are right to question them.Some bearings have a metal shield out side this cage.Still not good enough.
My front wheel bearings are sealed both sides of each bearing with a rubber type material.The bearing should have the alphanumeric 2 RS at the end of the coded size designation to describe the bearing part#sealed status.
Mine are a common size and can be had cheaply from an engineering bearing vendor.
Yes, that's exactly what I saw when I pulled the wheel(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161209/fff2ee4cae1f7910719da1e4a8928f00.jpg)
I purchased a new set of All Balls bearings from eBay for $35.
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Your picture was tantalisingly reluctant to reveal the full story after an inordinate amount of time waiting to download it but from the curvature of the item in question I imagined that what you are portraying is indeed perfectly satisfactory.Ah,the time it took to compose this answer has revealed what I was imagining exactly as I thought...No worries!
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Really Nice Bike there Marauder. exciting build!
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Your picture was tantalisingly reluctant to reveal the full story after an inordinate amount of time waiting to download it but from the curvature of the item in question I imagined that what you are portraying is indeed perfectly satisfactory.Ah,the time it took to compose this answer has revealed what I was imagining exactly as I thought...No worries!
So eloquently put! Not sure how long it took you to compose but it's impressive :) I'll load smaller pics in hopes that they'll load quicker for you.
Really Nice Bike there Marauder. exciting build!
Thank you! Its so exciting for me to be working on it and learning how to do so. Which brings me to my next questions...does my water/oil pump look like it needs to be replaced or just cleaned and a leak found? (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161210/534e6c294ffec7d41989c9ffcad5e26c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161210/317c47c914c61ca61d1c11f68b5cf321.jpg)
Does this brake pedal look like it should be replaced?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161210/5a951ada781131a1ce8ef0ae2652f29c.jpg)
[emoji848][emoji13][emoji23]
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So eloquently put! Not sure how long it took you to compose but it's impressive :) I'll load smaller pics in hopes that they'll load quicker for you. Thank you! Its so exciting for me to be working on it and learning how to do so. Which brings me to my next questions..
Jeez Marauder that pump block looks like shite.Stil,it's what's on the inside that counts.The brake lever looks a bit dodgy,mine's not quite that far gone but give 'em a good clean,dismantle and see what's what.You can get a reconditioned pump block if nescessery.It's an easy swap as long as all the stars line up.
Eloquancey expands or contracts in proportion to how much perceived time is available!
All the best.
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Jeez Marauder that pump block looks like shite.Stil,it's what's on the inside that counts.The brake lever looks a bit dodgy,mine's not quite that far gone but give 'em a good clean,dismantle and see what's what.You can get a reconditioned pump block if nescessery.It's an easy swap as long as all the stars line up.
Eloquancey expands or contracts in proportion to how much perceived time is available!
All the best.
Yes it does look terrible. I'll ask google where a reconditioned pump block is available unless someone has a good source they wouldn't mind sharing with me. I believe something was leaking when the bike was last in operation. Time to bust out the trusty clymer manual to learn how to take it apart and figure out what's going on. I've found the brake pedal on eBay for around $20 so I'll order one of those up.
Eloquancey expands or contracts in proportion to how much alcoholic beverage is consumed! Lol
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Restrain yourself Laitch
:popcorm
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No luck getting the bearings removed from the front wheel. Those suckers are in the TIGHT! I'm going to let the powder coater remove them since he has a tool for it.
I got the brakes all taken apart and cleaned up for the powder coater. Unfortunately, I only ordered a rebuild kit for one of the calipers instead of for both [emoji31].
I did get the bolts that hold the front brakes onto the wheel and the rear caliper bolts cleaned up. Here are some before and afters.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/1801444124fc3190999a7e507684e529.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/25441b872e9a2acc393a1c174529cd87.jpg)
Gotta love a wire brush that attaches to a drill.
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It's not as if your arms are un-tensioned when braking.
But I do agree that the slipperiness if better avoided
GF
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Gotta love a wire brush that attaches to a drill.
In this situation(working on your bike), you might find that a cup brush (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4920-8-Inch-11-Crimped-014-Inch/dp/B00004RHAN/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481982053&sr=8-2&keywords=cup+brush+dewalt) on a 4.5" angle grinder will polish better. Just make sure you have a GOOD hold on the grinder and the part you are polishing AND wearing safety glasses :bmwsmile . When using the cup brush, things occasionally take flight (including the grinder itself!).
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Angle grinder - second best electrical tool in the shed.
Eye protection a must. I had to take a mate of mine to the doctors to get a piece of wire (from a brass wire brush) out of his eye ball - and he was wearing a welding mask.
Make sure to spray something onto the cleaned metal - marine / lanolin (variation on WD40) work well
G
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Angle grinder - second best electrical tool in the shed.
Eye protection a must. I had to take a mate of mine to the doctors to get a piece of wire (from a brass wire brush) out of his eye ball - and he was wearing a welding mask.
Make sure to spray something onto the cleaned metal - marine / lanolin (variation on WD40) work well
G
Thank you! I shall try my angle grinder
In this situation(working on your bike), you might find that a cup brush (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4920-8-Inch-11-Crimped-014-Inch/dp/B00004RHAN/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481982053&sr=8-2&keywords=cup+brush+dewalt) on a 4.5" angle grinder will polish better. Just make sure you have a GOOD hold on the grinder and the part you are polishing AND wearing safety glasses :bmwsmile . When using the cup brush, things occasionally take flight (including the grinder itself!).
I just grabbed a fine and coarse from my local hardware store. Already started using the fine brush on the rear package holder and it's working well. Pics to follow
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/3b8411c7a7a19024eec70a2b4da542ba.jpg)
Got the brake lever replaced today. I think the one I bought was off a different bike but it fit without any problems. Anyone want to buy my old one? Lol
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A little more progress to report. I got the wheels and brake calipers back from the powder coater the other day and I love the way they look. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/3807540463c0158a68bdb2844a894a38.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/2f9ef077417f3fd498d8da1bb9a1620a.jpg)
I inadvertently picked a color for the wheels that almost perfectly matches my Ford F-250. It's a dark royal blue and probably my favorite color. The brake calipers are gold, and even tho I'm not a huge fan of gold, I think they look perfect.
Next up is to rebuild the calipers, (of which I have all the necessary parts), mount the tires onto the wheels, install the new wheel bearings, put the brakes back together onto the wheels, and mount it all up.
Also, i still need to flush the coolant and check the air filter.
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I need to drain and flush the coolant and the Clymer manual says I need to pull the gas tank for that. It also says I need to pull the tank to check and/or replace the air filter. I have an oil suction device that I used to remove the fuel from the gas tank, can I use it to suck out the coolant and simply refill it with new mix? Is there a way to get at the air filter without pulling the tank? I'm not trying to be lazy, I'm trying to be strategic with the limited time I have to put into this restoration. TIA
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I have an oil suction device that I used to remove the fuel from the gas tank, can I use it to suck out the coolant and simply refill it with new mix? Is there a way to get at the air filter without pulling the tank? I'm trying to be strategic with the limited time I have to put into this restoration.
You could unclip the rear of the tank and pivot it upwards to get to the radiator cap. You don't need to raise the tank to replace the air filter. Harris has a video showing how it takes three minutes.
Impatience is an obstacle. A restoration involves a thorough inspection. A rusty brick needs its operating system restored regardless of the level of effort involved.
The tank should be removed so you can clean and inspect electrical connections beneath it with ease. The cover of the air filter should be removed so the air box can be cleaned of debris.
The coolant system should be flushed with coolant system cleaner before new coolant is added. There are particulates throughout its neglected system that will resist being removed by a suction device and will continue to affect efficient cooling. Several threads and sources are available on this site and the Web to help you. Effective, simple procedures have been developed to clean the system. I grant that they are not simple enough for everyone.
Shortcuts are being considered. Excuses are being made for them. Impatience is making inroads. If that is allowed to continue when learning to ride and riding, too, the rider has a greater chance of becoming a danger to others, and a fatality statistic.
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Re: Particulates in the cooling system.
While servicing my K1100 bike / project... I pulled the lower radiator hose that connects to the water pump. There were some "particulates" that looked like worm castes or mud wasp casings. Couldn't believe that this crap was in there. The water pump pipe that goes into the hose was corroded and will need replacing.
Long story short... pull the radiator off the bike and clean it inside and out. Maybe get rid of all the loose stuff and respray the outside. Reverse flush the radiator with a hose. Expect debris in the water pump. Short cut this now and you'll have a break down somewhere isolated later. The beautiful blue of your rims will piss you off even more.
Guy
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Re: Particulates in the cooling system.
While servicing my K1100 bike / project... I pulled the lower radiator hose that connects to the water pump. There were some "particulates" that looked like worm castes or mud wasp casings. Couldn't believe that this crap was in there. The water pump pipe that goes into the hose was corroded and will need replacing.
Long story short... pull the radiator off the bike and clean it inside and out. Maybe get rid of all the loose stuff and respray the outside. Reverse flush the radiator with a hose. Expect debris in the water pump. Short cut this now and you'll have a break down somewhere isolated later. The beautiful blue of your rims will piss you off even more.
Guy
Thank you for the excellent description and warning. I'll do as you recommend.
You could unclip the rear of the tank and pivot it upwards to get to the radiator cap. You don't need to raise the tank to replace the air filter. Harris has a video showing how it takes three minutes.
Impatience is an obstacle. A restoration involves a thorough inspection. A rusty brick needs its operating system restored regardless of the level of effort involved.
The tank should be removed so you can clean and inspect electrical connections beneath it with ease. The cover of the air filter should be removed so the air box can be cleaned of debris.
The coolant system should be flushed with coolant system cleaner before new coolant is added. There are particulates throughout its neglected system that will resist being removed by a suction device and will continue to affect efficient cooling. Several threads and sources are available on this site and the Web to help you. Effective, simple procedures have been developed to clean the system. I grant that they are not simple enough for everyone.
Shortcuts are being taken. Excuses are being made for them. Impatience is making inroads. If that is allowed when learning to ride and riding, too, the rider has a greater chance of becoming a danger to others and a fatality statistic.
Thank you. I'll follow this advice.
Effective, simple procedures are all I'm looking for. I'm certainly not trying to be impatient, make excuses, or take shortcuts. I'm just trying to manage my time wisely, since it's limited, rather than take unnecessary steps that would otherwise cut into my available time.
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A wise man once said the Oxen is slow but the Earth is patient. And softly, softly catchee monkey.
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Patience, Grasshopper. Motorcycle maintenance is like foreplay. The slower you go the better the ride.
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Patience, Grasshopper. Motorcycle maintenance is like foreplay. The slower you go the better the ride.
Well stated, my friend! I'm in no rush to get the maintenance done as I'm thoroughly enjoying the wrenching and learning.
A wise man once said the Oxen is slow but the Earth is patient. And softly, softly catchee monkey.
Indeed!
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Update: the brick is still rusty🤣
Unfortunately, I haven't had time to do anything to the bike. I have been turning it on and running it for a few minutes a day and unfortunately I discovered a gas leak. I see a drip on the front right corner of the tank and fuel on top of the motor next to the air box. I was hoping to only have to take care of the deferred maintenance and make some cosmetic changes but it looks like I'll have to become a full-blown mechanic. When I run the engine I get smoke coming from between the tank and engine. Is this an issue that's familiar to anyone? If the tank is leaking can it be repaired or will it have to be replaced?
In other news, I got my pirelli tires in and installed on the wheels. Thanks to ups loosing my rear tire I ended up with two because the company sent out a second one and a week later the first one showed up. Score!
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The leak should be fairly easy to fix, it isn't unusual to get some pin hole leaks, my tank had been fixed in the past as well.
As for the smoking, I guess you have done a bunch of cleaning and degreasing and various things to the engine, I know I did. The first few times I started mine it smoked like it was about to burst into flames but since I was confident there were no leaks etc I trusted to my luck that it was just residue boiling off and that turned out to be the case, I get zero smoke of any type now.
Wow great score on the tyres, lucky you!
BTW the spieglers are in and installed and now I am actually riding it I can say they seem to perform very well.
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The leak should be fairly easy to fix, it isn't unusual to get some pin hole leaks, my tank had been fixed in the past as well.
As for the smoking, I guess you have done a bunch of cleaning and degreasing and various things to the engine, I know I did. The first few times I started mine it smoked like it was about to burst into flames but since I was confident there were no leaks etc I trusted to my luck that it was just residue boiling off and that turned out to be the case, I get zero smoke of any type now.
Wow great score on the tyres, lucky you!
BTW the spieglers are in and installed and now I am actually riding it I can say they seem to perform very well.
Once I track down the leak and know for sure that it's the tank I'll remove it and have it repaired. While I have it off, that's when I'll check the air filter and flush the coolant system.
I think you're right about the smoking. There is still quite a bit of debris on to of the motor from it having sat for so long. That coupled with the fuel that's leaking onto it. While the tank is removed I'll do a thorough cleaning of that area.
Yes, I scored on the tire!
Great to hear about the Spieglers, thank you! I'll have to contact them when I'm ready to replace them to see if they can do a custom size since I'll be replacing the handlebars.
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Thanks to ups loosing my rear tire I ended up with two because the company sent out a second one and a week later the first one showed up. Score!
Is this the path to good karma? Stay tuned!
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Is this the path to good karma? Stay tuned!
Personally, I don't believe in karma. But I did get a hold of the company and they told me that the tire is paid for so I can keep it. Am I in the wrong?
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Am I in the wrong?
Maybe somebody will come along who is interested in answering that for you, if you can't answer it yourself.
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Maybe somebody will come along who is interested in answering that for you, if you can't answer it yourself.
Hopefully not. I know the answer, and besides, I'd rather talk about the brick :riding: :falldown:
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Hopefully not. I know the answer, and besides, I'd rather talk about the brick :riding: :falldown:
Can't blame you for that! :yes
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I finally had time to pull the tank (which was really easy, by the way) and found the leak. There's a pinhole on the lowest right corner. I called a motorcycle restorer, who also did my powdercoating, and he suggested an epoxy liner inside the tank. I'm going to drop it off on Monday to him for that procedure.
In other news, I got the fairing removed, also. I'm liking the way the bike is looks naked so I think I'm going to stick with it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/7cc05fa4178e8a83d75d421d3f010d25.jpg)
The fork tubes are in awful shape and I doubt I'll be able to clean them up so I'll have to replace those, eventually.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/e1539f8dee5de37402953092e4476887.jpg)
I already have a Koso TNT-01 gauge to replace the lunchbox, and my BEP 3.0 is on its way. I'm just having a hard time deciding on a headlight and turn signals. I like the look of the mirrors with the turn indicators built in, and also the headlights with the indicators built in. There are so many options that I can't decide. I've been looking at different bikes to try to help with the decision but nothing has solidified it for me yet. Oh well, I guess I have to keep looking at beautiful motorcycles until I decide.
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Good news...finally! I pulled the air filter out and it looks brand new
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/f3f61d3135b1d00639e6ddf0cdc552ff.jpg)
I started on putting the brake calipers together with the new parts (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/29949e336ebc87a1ab73daf2de962f06.jpg)
I can't install them yet, tho, as I'm going to use this(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/01a5e14050861fcc2165d1055f8e9760.jpg)
to clean these (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/dfa9be86deec21f2f01a702e9214e2b9.jpg)
I'm really happy with how the calipers look in gold with nice shiny hardware (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/808c42e12e50035e5043a8cfdfdc2d06.jpg)
Next up is flushing the coolant. I'm hoping to have a little time this weekend to accomplish it. I still need a headlight, turn indicators, and mirrors. Decisions, decisions.
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Love the calipers! And hopefully that air filter is an indicator as to the condition of the rest of the internals :2thumbup:
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Bricks are really economical on air elements probably due to the position of the snorkel. I am on my second in 19 years I just reverse blow them and my original is still fine. I replaced it just because I had a spare and got sick of seeing the old one.
Regards Martin.
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Ever since the mid 80's the components related to the combustion process, emissions, and fuel economy have been designed for a useful working life of 100,000 miles. EPA regulations for the auto industry mandate that vehicles must operate for that distance with no owner maintenance and still meet fuel mileage and emission requirements. That is why things like air filters last so much longer than they did in the good old days.
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That is why things like air filters last so much longer than they did in the good old days.
I'm guessing that if you let this sit for 10 years without riding it just like the guy who sold it to you did, MaraudeRS, it'll still be looking purty durn good, if mice or pythons haven't gotten to it. :yes
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Love the calipers! And hopefully that air filter is an indicator as to the condition of the rest of the internals :2thumbup:
Thanks! Hopefully. Fingers crossed.
Bricks are really economical on air elements probably due to the position of the snorkel. I am on my second in 19 years I just reverse blow them and my original is still fine. I replaced it just because I had a spare and got sick of seeing the old one.
Regards Martin.
Makes sense to me.
I'm guessing that if you let this sit for 10 years without riding it just like the guy who sold it to you did, MaraudeRS, it'll still be looking purty durn good, if mice or pythons haven't gotten to it. :yes
Out of all the things that could have possibly been wrong with the filter pythons getting to it was my biggest concern[emoji23]
Ever since the mid 80's the components related to the combustion process, emissions, and fuel economy have been designed for a useful working life of 100,000 miles. EPA regulations for the auto industry mandate that vehicles must operate for that distance with no owner maintenance and still meet fuel mileage and emission requirements. That is why things like air filters last so much longer than they did in the good old days.
That's good to know. Thanks for the info[emoji1360]
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That is why things like air filters last so much longer than they did in the good old days.
Air filters are classified as non-emission related items by the EPA so they can wear and be replaced at whatever intervals are recommended by the manufacturers. They're not part of the 100,000 standard.
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Please don't 'blow' your air filters. That puts holes in them. Just smack them on any convenient surface to remove the dust.
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Please don't 'blow' your air filters. That puts holes in them. Just smack them on any convenient surface to remove the dust.
Are you sure they don't prefer to be blown rather than smacked? I know I do ;)
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I took the bar ends off to see if I could install bar end mirrors and found this inside(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/52d1bf740fc85ed8dfd2150ec7f529fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/80cb23e05a8eadc16949241b7c49f4d8.jpg)
Can anyone confirm that this means I have heated grips?
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I took the bar ends off to see if I could install bar end mirrors and found this inside(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/52d1bf740fc85ed8dfd2150ec7f529fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/80cb23e05a8eadc16949241b7c49f4d8.jpg)
Can anyone confirm that this means I have heated grips?
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Double post. Can't figure out how to delete it on Tapatalk
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I took the bar ends off to see if I could install bar end mirrors and found this inside(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/52d1bf740fc85ed8dfd2150ec7f529fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/80cb23e05a8eadc16949241b7c49f4d8.jpg)
Can anyone confirm that this means I have heated grips?
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Can anyone confirm that this means I have heated grips?
Once upon a time your bike did.
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Once upon a time your bike did.
Thank you! That's the same pic I saw in the Clymer but wanted to be sure. Is it removable or are the parts welded/soldered to the inside of the bar? Even if they are functional (which I doubt) I don't need them where I live.
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That's the same pic I saw in the Clymer but wanted to be sure. Is it removable or are the parts welded/soldered to the inside of the bar? Even if they are functional (which I doubt) I don't need them where I live.
Believe leave your manuals! You should have two or three different ones for cross reference. Given evolving circumstance here, there may not always be someone around to hold your hand, and even when there is, you both might be out to lunch.
On your bike it probably has been welded by cosmic forces over the last 10 years. :giggles
If you don't want it, get rid of it.
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Believe leave your manuals! You should have two or three different ones for cross reference. Given evolving circumstance here, there may not always be someone around to hold your hand, and even when there is, you both might be out to lunch.
On your bike it probably has been welded by cosmic forces over the last 10 years. :giggles
If you don't want it, get rid of it.
Thanks. I like holding hands :giggles
I took my brake bits out of the rust removal bath and here's what I got(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/b611577284a72946c6eb5a656a2ba6b3.jpg) Amazing! I'm so glad Chris Harris told me about this kind of stuff. Now to reassemble the brakes. Here's the rest of my to do list:
Finish rebuilding brake calipers
Take gas tank to get repaired
Flush coolant
Install & bleed brakes
Install headlight
Install mirrors
Install BEP & Instrument cluster
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I like how this is looking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170203/0af5ee328e164925a6327c8ef07a00c9.jpg)
My concern is with the brake pads. I couldn't get the retention pin to go all the way thru without drilling out the hole in the pad. This can't be normal to have to do. Has anyone else had to do this with these pads? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170203/5a7cc061c8603955560aeb46138a7638.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170203/575f6899b3a52523414151c3bfc827ee.jpg)
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What brand pads? And some brands of pads do seem to require a bit of fettling.
Regards Martin.
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These guys:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170203/c0eed1d48956eb0f49eb755cb804a061.jpg)
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Ha - just had a set of those ship today. They will be here end of next week so I will let you know if I have the same issue. Meanwhile I am struggling with knowing that all three discs are below minimum width (3.1 - 3.3 mm) but not having a handy $700 to replace them for EBC discs - anyone know any cheaper options?
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TMG swears by them. If I could get them in OZ I was considering them for my next change. However they are a different model pad, but apparently according to TMG his are easy on rotors and cheap as chips.
Regards Martin.
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Ha - just had a set of those ship today. They will be here end of next week so I will let you know if I have the same issue. Meanwhile I am struggling with knowing that all three discs are below minimum width (3.1 - 3.3 mm) but not having a handy $700 to replace them for EBC discs - anyone know any cheaper options?
Yes, please let me know your findings. I thought it may have had something to do with powder coating the calipers but any dimension that would have effected the pad were not changed.
In my search for a new rear disk I was unable to find a less costly option than the ebc. I ended up finding one on eBay that a guy bought a duplicate of by mistake so I got it at a bit of a discount.
TMG swears by them. If I could get them in OZ I was considering them for my next change. However they are a different model pad, but apparently according to TMG his are easy on rotors and cheap as chips.
Regards Martin.
Yes, TMG was the one who recommended them to me in this thread. Hopefully he can shed some light on whether or not he's had to modify them to fit his bike.
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I have the Volar pads on three bricks. Yes, I have had to do some fiddling to get them to fit. Part of the low cost is that they seem to be made with old tooling. One of the things that happens with stamping dies that punch out parts like the backing plated for these pads is that as they wear out, the parts will grow in size, and holes will get smaller.
Because of this, I have found that I sometimes need to spend a couple minutes with a file or grinder trimming a few thousandths off an edge to get a pad to fit. I have had to do this on pads not only for my bikes, but also my automobiles. Been doing this for at least 25 years, so I have probably gotten used to the pads needing it and it's no big deal to me. When they go in easy it's kind of like a bonus.
I figure that 10 minutes taking a little off an edge or two is not a bad trade off for pads that only cost me $6/caliper and will last upwards of three years. Maybe that isn't a practical trade off for some of us.
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I have the Volar pads on three bricks. Yes, I have had to do some fiddling to get them to fit. Part of the low cost is that they seem to be made with old tooling. One of the things that happens with stamping dies that punch out parts like the backing plated for these pads is that as they wear out, the parts will grow in size, and holes will get smaller.
Because of this, I have found that I sometimes need to spend a couple minutes with a file or grinder trimming a few thousandths off an edge to get a pad to fit. I have had to do this on pads not only for my bikes, but also my automobiles. Been doing this for at least 25 years, so I have probably gotten used to the pads needing it and it's no big deal to me. When they go in easy it's kind of like a bonus.
I figure that 10 minutes taking a little off an edge or two is not a bad trade off for pads that only cost me $6/caliper and will last upwards of three years. Maybe that isn't a practical trade off for some of us.
That's a perfectly good trade-off for me. I just wanted to be sure that I wasn't sent a couple of wrong pairs. I also wanted to make sure I wasn't compromising the integrity of the pad. 10 minutes is about all it took to make them work, as you said. Thanks for the confirmation.
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I have a feeling I left the o-rings out of my front calipers but I can find a darn parts fiche for them anywhere! Even the clymer manual only has the single pot calipers for the fronts!
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Here at the supplemental...
it mentions the same for rear as front...
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You can buy them at motobins for £1.25 each [size=78%]part no [/size][/size]
23290
[/size]
https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100 (https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100)
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Yup, that's what I was afraid of, I left out the o-rings. Grrr! Thanks for the info guys. Two steps forward and one step backwards every time.
The fuel tank is at a metal shop right now getting the hole repaired and the little body mounting tabs removed.
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Has anyone tried the braided stainless steel hoses from motobins? They're a good price and I only want to replace 4 of them at the moment. Unfortunately, they don't provide a fiche for where each hose goes so I'm having to guess as to which ones are the ones I need. Tia!
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I couldn't find any info on the motobins lines but during my search I found a post where someone mentioned ordering a set from Rennsportautoparts on eBay. I found their website (because they don't have any K100 lines on eBay) and sent them an email regarding what I need. They just need pictures of the lines and measurements and they can make them for around $20/ea. Score! So if I wanted to do all 6 it would be around $120, which is half the price of Speigler! Thank you Motobrick!!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/f3cba385b6f52acf24d7a3e057156c18.jpg)
'nuff said
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I bought SS brake hoses from Motobins for my '87 K75 (no ABS; rear drum). The two lower front hoses attach to the existing downpipe/splitter. I ordered the incorrect top hose (for different handebars than I have) and Motobins exchanged it at no extra charge for shipping. Can recommend.
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Thanks for the info John.
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I'm trying to drain the coolant but I can't find the drain plug. I feel like an incompetent fool right now. I've scoured the clymer manual, even the supplemental, and the oil/water pump isn't the same as mine. There are two wires that go to the bottom left side of the pump. One is the warning light switch but I don't know what the other is. Here are a couple pics
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170208/0545494db7c8868b87f3e4d375b25a11.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170208/c41bb4900070cb4a752e5eb2bac40f9d.jpg)
Is the lower one the drain plug? Even the fiche has a plug there and not a wire.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170208/114de18b545c4ca0465029946494f355.jpg)
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One is the warning light switch but I don't know what the other is.
The lower electrical connection is for a temperature gauge. Bikes without a gauge have the plug. The gauge can be a tender piece to remove so many brickers just remove the lower coolant hose to drain the radiator and backflush through the block and pump.
With the neglect your bike has experienced, I'd be tempted to remove it just to see what comes from that passage but many apparently don't view that as necessary.
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I removed the lower of the two sensors to drain the coolant, worked fine.
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The lower electrical connection is for a temperature gauge. Bikes without a gauge have the plug. The gauge can be a tender piece to remove so many brickers just remove the lower coolant hose to drain the radiator and backflush through the block and pump.
With the neglect your bike has experienced, I'd be tempted to remove it just to see what comes from that passage but many apparently don't view that as necessary.
I had a feeling. Thank you! I'll take your advice and remove it just to see what comes from the passage.
I removed the lower of the two sensors to drain the coolant, worked fine.
Thank you!
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Bonus! I removed the plug and drained the coolant. No green goo. The coolant looked good and the plug looks good.
Thanks again guys!
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Flush the system a good fews times before refilling with coolant mix. I also found that my hoses were 'crunchy' when squeezed. So I squeezed a lot and tons of gunk came out, there again it was obvious the PO had been using regular tap water not distilled. After lots of flushing and squeezing I filled it with a 60/40 mix of water and coolant and she runs great.
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Will do. Thank you!
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Good call on flushing out the system really well, Filmcamera. I removed the reserve coolant tank and found this inside (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/dc55f8a4967c8995ecaa4a4ecc387c3b.jpg)yummy! Got that cleaned out and it's ready for fresh mix.
I also got a little something in the mail today (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/e9ae9277839c90b7a74647a96f3da1d7.jpg)woohoo!
Here's what it looks like compared to the Showa that was on there (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/e4c9070883e80fe9299f195fa18fc0ab.jpg) Big difference!
So at this point I'm just waiting to get the gas tank back from repair and the new brake lines. Can't wait!
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Nice! Getting close, can't wait for your first ride after all this work.
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Nice! Getting close, can't wait for your first ride after all this work.
Me neither!
I forgot, I still need to replace the transmission fluid, also. At least the list is getting shorter ;)
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Are my eyes fooling me or is the new nice looking shock shorter?
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I believe it is a smidge shorter. My wanted to stick with the stock height so I'll have to measure them both to see the difference. I might have to lower the front a bit, which I don't mind doing
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The neutral light doesn't come on when in neutral. Is that a common problem? Could it simply be the light bulb in the cluster or might it be something else?
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The neutral light doesn't come on when in neutral. Is that a common problem? Could it simply be the light bulb in the cluster or might it be something else?
That is not a rare occurrence. It could be the bulb; it could be wiring within the instrument cluster, but it could also be the gear position indicator switch on the rear of the transmission and the wiring from there to the instrument cluster. Does your gear position display indicate neutral and the other gear positions accurately? If it does then checking the bulb first might be the way to go. Then you can clean all pin connections to and within the cluster which oxidation and idleness might have compromised.
Read this for an overview (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/trans-switch.shtml) of gear position indicator functions. There are threads here describing all angles of maintenance and function.
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Thank you, Laitch! My gear position display doesn't indicate neutral nor any other gear positions. I'll check out the link you provided so I can get down to the bottom of this.
Another question: how many miles are on my brick?I know it sounds like a stupid question but my mind is playing tricks on me. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170214/4f53d530c019b7cda04ce12a679dbefa.jpg)
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41,587.75
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41,587.75
If that's the case, it's a better bike than it seems. :giggles
O, the beauty of deletion.
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Really it only has 4,000 miles on it? I always assumed the counter was in miles, not that the last one was in 1/10th's, however as documented my speedo doesn't work so thanks for the info.
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I would have said 41k miles
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Really it only has 4,000 miles on it? I always assumed the whole counter was in miles, not that the last one was in 1/10th's
Who said it had 4 grand, Filmcamera?
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I have no idea Laitch :2thumbup:
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41,587.95miles
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41,587.95miles
Gryph's assessment may be off a trifle. He says he doesn't pay attention to which key he's tapping. :yes
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I have that probem I am always doing typoos and putting comm'as in the wrong place.
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Now you see why I was confused? Lol
Thanks guys
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The fractional indexing of the last unit indicates tampering.Ask me how I know...
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Now you see why I was confused? Lol
Thanks guys
Yeah, you're reading the posts here.
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Yeah, you're reading the posts here.
Haha! I love this place
So I just pulled the cluster apart and tested the light bulb...it's fine. Once I get it back together I'll investigate the other possibilities.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170214/956ae576e6042038c76ea56bef391689.jpg)
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The fractional indexing of the last unit indicates tampering.Ask me how I know...
How do you know?
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How do you know?
You beat me to it
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I am agog to know...
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How do you keep an idiot in suspense???? Put him in a round room and tell him to sit in the corner... :bmwsmile
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How do you keep an idiot in suspense???? Put him in a round room and tell him to sit in the corner... :bmwsmile
Pithy, jack. Those long hours on the tractor must be inspirational, or harrowing. :giggles
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The fractional indexing of the last unit indicates tampering.Ask me how I know...
Easy enough to fix too. Ask me how I know... :hehehe
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Too hard to explain. Ask me how I know.
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Will everyone just quit beating around the bush! :giggles
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:popcorm
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I fear undisclosed Russian involvement :hehehe
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Can I ask you how you know?
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He could tell you but then he'd have to kill you...
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How do you know?
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see above... just replace he with I...
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see above... just replace he with I...
I could tell you but then he'd have to kill you.
Does he earn dinner out for that?
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I could tell you but then he'd have to kill you.
Does he earn dinner out for that?
No, HE still has some court ordered public service to fulfill. Trying to get it all accomplished before our legal system gets any crazier :deal: !
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Will everyone just quit beating around the bush! :giggles
Ok ... so I bought my brick with 55667 Km on the clock. The next year I was having problems with the speedo, and had always had trouble with the tach, mostly due to a corroded wiring loom. A working cluster showed up on fleabay california and ...
Of course the Cali cluster was in MPH with KPH not as prominent not a big deal. Swapped it in and recorded the Odometer readings. Shortly after that, that cluster was giving problems so I combined the best of the 2 units. Now I had a good cluster, metric speedo & odometer, good wiring loom, functional clock, etc. All this farting around had left me with a few hundred kilometers missing on the original odometer ...
... so I reset the clock ahead to where it shoud-a-bean. :hehehe That's when I noticed the last number was advancing by x.5 ...
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Haha you clowns,how do I know in deed?
I took a toyato diesel car one apart to "see how it worked".Putting it back together was an effing nightmare.I gave up trying to get all the numerals to sit in the right place,let alone read the true mileage...
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The knowledge base here is getting yuuuge!
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Is it normal to have to pull the clutch in to start the bike? I have to do that even when it's in neutral
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Is it normal to have to pull the clutch in to start the bike? I have to do that even when it's in neutral
Your bike should have a start-in-neutral function if it is stock. When it is in gear, we pull in the clutch to start it. It's a safety feature. Some bikes have a side stand electrical switch that won't allow starting until the stand is raised. Other bikes have mechanical linkage that raises the side stand when the clutch lever is pulled.
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Your bike should have a start-in-neutral function if it is stock. When it is in gear, we pull in the clutch to start it. It's a safety feature. Some bikes have a side stand electrical switch that won't allow starting until the stand is raised. Other bikes have mechanical linkage that raises the side stand when the clutch lever is pulled.
Thank you. Do you know what's broken that would cause this?
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Thank you. Do you know what's broken that would cause this?
Cause what—starting side stand up and with the clutch in but not starting with the side stand up and the bike in neutral?
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The bike won't start with side stand up and gear in neutral without pulling in the clutch
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The bike won't start with side stand up and gear in neutral without pulling in the clutch
Does your bike have mechanical linkage that raises the stand with a clutch pull?
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Does your bike have mechanical linkage that raises the stand with a clutch pull?
No
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Does the neutral light work?
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No
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No
Read this (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,517.msg1246.html#msg1246). It might help you sort things out. It's missing illustrations which is the result of posting photos from a server rather than uploading them to this site from a computer.
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Read this (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,517.msg1246.html#msg1246). It might help you sort things out. It's missing illustrations which is the result of posting photos from a server rather than uploading them to this site from a computer.
Thank you sir! You are a gentleman with a scholarship :giggles I have a feeling it's going to be the gpi on the transmission judging by the bikes history.
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The GPI is extremely susceptible to water and road crap. They can be carefully pulled apart and cleaned. Mine failed about 18 years ago,
so I waterproofed the new one with Plasti Dip and have not had a problem since. I now have the old one cleaned and waterproofed as a spare.
Regards Martin.
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Thank you Martin. That's a great idea. I have some experience with plasti-dip so I may do that.
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Has it really been almost a month since my last post?? Well here's an update:
I got the fuel tank patched up and exhaust replaced by a mobile welder who came to my house. I polished the header pipes with some 350 grit sandpaper first, then some 1500 grit sandpaper to shine them up. They're not perfect but a yuuuuge improvement! The exhaust note now sounds deep and throaty...i love it!
New brake lines installed.
I got the headlight wired up and installed but I'm not yet sure how I feel about it. I liked that it had integrated turn indicators. Maybe it's that the lunchbox is still on, but I'm not thrilled with it. Don't spare my feelings, let me know what you think. When I get the Koso TNT installed it's probably gonna look a lot better.
I got the transmission oil replaced.
I topped-off the gear oil in the final drive. It was a bit low.
What's left to do, for now, is install the mirrors and bleed the brakes. Here are some pics for proof:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/6d39ab49ff8c47a2f0e13d45bc491e72.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/2b3cff14f603f1f5e6630bac6df36e04.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/a4c6e482433856f2385549c05f5a8abe.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/9605b67d074b51533b308f916b621e11.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/650f05f87db0ca50e61e343e5d2154d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/ad286cdc5b1fbd670591f35af43950cb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/e58fe367d2c59ee6b0de2a947d663442.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/91d30a366a7fd23cfe251f0709b0034e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/6c11e9b88ec1f20c315e2cdee597470a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/00c889dafce1a376f6d4ec63da35bc38.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/bb953916281c180a9f432c84fb9f170b.jpg)
Those valve stem caps are the icing on the cake, are they not?! Lol
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Those valve stem caps are the icing on the cake, are they not?! Lol
When they are stolen you can replace them with skulls.
Hard to believe it's the same bike. I think the headlight fits in with it. Have you putted around the neighborhood yet. Don't the Cali po-po want the registration plate lit? Does it have a spotlight on it?
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When they are stolen you can replace them with skulls.
Hard to believe it's the same bike. I think the headlight fits in with it. Have you putted around the neighborhood yet. Don't the Cali po-po want the registration plate lit? Does it have a spotlight on it?
Skulls, why didn't I think of that?! Haha
No rides around the hood yet. I still need to bleed the brakes. Clymer says that if you have ABS you need to take it to an authorized service center to have it done. Does anyone here do it themselves? What's the procedure?
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I have and it takes a while but can be done.
The back brake is relatively easy. Start with the ABS modulator then move on to the caliper itself. Do not assume that when bubbles stop coming out you are done - that is what I did and I was very wrong.
OK this is how to do.
11mm wrench on the bleed valve as well as some clear plastic tubing leading to a glass jar or something to hold the brake fluid as it comes out.
Open the bleed valve, press the rear brake caliper down about half way SLOWLY, close the bleed nipple, release the pedal, repeat. Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the reservoir because you do not want it to run out. Use a new bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid and I suggest putting at least two or three reservoirs full thought the system before you are done.
Johnny said pump at each bleed nipple 26 times, I used 27 because it is the cube of 3 which is the number of letters in BMW - the point is do it a LOT.
Same procedure for the front, start with the ABS modulator then the caliper furthest from the lever then the one closest. Do not pull the brake lever more than half way and do it SLOWLY.
Again 27 per nipple - at least two or three reservoirs full.
You should start to feel pressure on the lever as you are half way through the last lever, maybe earlier.
When done tie the brake lever back in about the half way position overnight. You can also try and get some weight on the rear brake to do the same thing.
Good luck, let me know if anything isn't clear.
Delboy from Delboy's garage just did a video on bleeding the brakes on his Triumph - different bike, same principal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsWAybC05RQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsWAybC05RQ)
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Thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I shall try that out and we'll see if I'm successful. I'll let you guys know how it goes
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Confession time:
The reason for my 3 week hiatus is that I couldn't get the brakes bled myself so I took it to my nearest BMW motorcycle mechanic, which is about 45 minutes away. I asked them to bleed the brakes and do an overall inspection of the bike. Turns out that both of my master cylinders needed to be replaced. They gave me an estimate, and even though I know I could have done it for far less, I let them do it because I didn't want to do it wrong. I also asked them for an estimate to replace then gear position indicator, which I know isn't working. They called me on Tuesday and told me the bike is ready to be picked up. Yay! I drive out there to pick it up and I asked "so what did you find wrong and are the brakes good to go?" They tell me that the brakes are still a little softer than they'd like to see them because the ABS pressure modulator might be going bad. They recommended getting rid of the abs system altogether, which is what I'll do. Hopefully I can recoup so if my money by selling the control module and new brake hoses I just bought. They never gave me an estimate to replace the gpi and didn't do much of an overall inspection aside from telling me my fork seals are leaking and my stanchions need replacing (which I already knew). It was an $1100 lesson in why so many K owners do a lot of their own repairs & maintenance.
The good news is that I finally got to take this baby for a ride. Wow, what an incredible feeling! She's a heavy one but nothing I couldn't handle. I rode around my neighborhood learning how to shift gears and use the controls. I never went over 30mph since the brakes aren't as they should be but the new hose is on its way for the front and I won't need to replace anything for the rear.
As for the fork seals & stanchions, I'm torn between replacing them and doing a front end swap. I really want to do a swap but I have a bunch of money into the brake rebuild, new tire, and powder coating. Decisions, decisions.
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Ouch...
Well at least you should end up confident in your brakes which is important.
I told you bleeding them was a PIA - I ended up getting a MC rebuild kit for both front and rear but only used the rear one in the end, so I have a front for when it is needed.
I would be interested to hear why they think soft brakes means a modulator going bad. Luckily every single cafe rebuild takes the ABS off so getting new modulators should be fairly easy and not hugely expensive.
The fork seals are easy to replace - assuming you do not have the threaded bolt nightmares I did anyway... the stanchions are just a straight swap as you do the forks. I would do that first, the front end swap can wait. If I remember this is your first bike so it is not like you will be pushing the ragged edge of performance any time soon, at least I hope not.
The hoses you got are stainless right? Is there a reason you did not have BMW install them when they did the rest of the work?
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I'm not sure why they believe the soft brakes are bad. When I was riding they felt ok to me but there is quite a bit of travel on the lever before they bite.
You're probably right about the stanchions and seals. I definitely won't be pushing the bike to the edge of performance any time soon. I'll keep looking out for a nice set of used stanchions so I don't feel so guilty when I do the swap.
Yes, the new hoses are stainless. I had already replaced them myself. I just ordered the new one that will bypass the abs system so I'll change that out when it arrives. I'll have 3 basically brand new hoses for sale shortly :)
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Im actively searching for a set of used for tubes/stanchions in good condition. If anyone comes across a pair please let me know. I'd like to spend $150 or less since that's about half the price of a new pair. Thx
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Almost a one month hiatus?! Time sure flies when you're having fun riding your brick!
Instead of spending money on new stanchions that I will end up replacing anyway I went straight for the jugular and bought a front end off of an 06/07 GSX-R600/750. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170503/ee2570435a380f2efbb7e3a8c6309d1f.jpg)
I still need to get a front wheel and rotors, and new bearings. Does anyone know if the stem and triple clamps will work? I've found a stem that will work but at $140 plus shipping I'd rather use the one that came with the gixxer front end if I can.
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Well now, lookee here (https://k75projeckt.wordpress.com/fork-it/)! Not much difference with what you're trying to do, Marauder. Maybe the answer is in there somewhere.
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Here's another one.... About half way down the page, after the crash... Good details on what he did to get the USD forks to work. (Although he used some from a 2000 R1)
https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:VhAfX6zINzcJ:https://papajhotel.com/2013/07/01/the-k100-project/+&cd=16&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
I can only get the cached copy to load, if link fails google 'k100 don't call it a cafe' -- should be first result, then choose cached with drop down arrow.
Good luck!
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Thank you both very much for the links! I'd actually already found both of those builds and read them thoroughly. I've been searching specifically for someone who's fitted the front end I got to the brick I have but I guess I'm the first. That's ok, I'm willing (aka stupid enough) to give it a shot and throw all the money at it that it takes. The new front arrives tomorrow so I'll take some measurements and let y'all know what I find.
Still excited!
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I've been searching specifically for someone who's fitted the front end I got to the brick I have but I guess I'm the first. .
You aren't the first and won't be the last either. Good luck!
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You aren't the first and won't be the last either. Good luck!
I don't think I am either, I just can't find any specific info. I'll keep searching.
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Maybe the guy in this post (http://www.k100-forum.com/t6478-1985-bmw-k100ff#74291) would be willing to correspond with you.
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Maybe the guy in this post (http://www.k100-forum.com/t6478-1985-bmw-k100ff#74291) would be willing to correspond with you.
Thank you! You beat me to it. I had only searched this forum at the time of my last post and was on my way to searching other forums. Much appreciated.
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Does anyone buy these? I won't be needing it anymore but I don't know if it can still be used. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/b616d859fd241ca37c36b34a691c08bd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/4445f2b6cbc752a38ba8cf6bbf1d5e8c.jpg)
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I don't think that pistol and silencer are worth anything. Where's the trigger anyway?
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I don't think that pistol and silencer are worth anything. Where's the trigger anyway?
Lol
I didn't think so but thought I'd ask. Is it true that there's platinum in catalytic converters? Should I tear this one up to get it out?
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Is it true that there's platinum in catalytic converters? Should I tear this one up to get it out?
29.61USD per gram for platinum today. You can either cut the thing open to get it or try to suck it out.
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29.61USD per gram for platinum today. You can either cut the thing open to get it or try to suck it out.
Where's my grinder? Hahaha
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The total amount probably not worth the effort
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The total amount probably not worth the effort
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I agree.
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The total amount probably not worth the effort
I agree.
Use somebody else's grinder and house current. That will lower the mining cost.
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I've been having the time of my life riding my rusty brick. A couple issues I need to address...I'm having trouble shifting into first gear. One down, four up, right? Turns out my shifter is hitting my 4-into-1 exhaust collector here(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/7998e8ae36cbd58ac850e524038f980c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/01ec41a873090651c5a95c7f87051651.jpg)
so I pulled it off and adjusted it upwards so that it will no longer hit. Hopefully there aren't any drawbacks to doing this. I'll have a chance to test it out tomorrow.
Also, my forks are leaking really badly. As I've noted before, the stanchions are badly rusted therefore my seals are shot. I have the new front end I just need to source a GSX-R wheel and possibly a triple tree. I'm going to pull the current setup off in a couple weeks. When I do I'll take both triples to a machinist and see if they can cut and thread the gsxr stem to fit the brick with the all balls racing conversion bearings. I wouldn't mind getting a a new top clamp so that I'm not using the Suzuki one. The whole setup is around $600 on Cognito Moto so I'm trying to avoid that expense if possible.
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It worked. The brick now shifts without problem.
In other news... isn't third gear the greatest thing since sliced bread?! I have the time of my life every time I ride, especially when I shift into third and I slingshot forward.
I found a wheel and new headlight on fb. The seller shipped them both today so as soon as I get them I'll take the wheel to the powder coater to get the same blue color as the current wheel. I'm excited about the headlight too. I'll post pics when it arrives.
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In other news... isn't third gear the greatest thing since sliced bread?! I have the time of my life every time I ride, especially when I shift into third and I slingshot forward.
Please describe this slingshot technique. I don't have your riding experience. What kind of oil did you put in the gearbox?
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Please describe this slingshot technique. I don't have your riding experience. What kind of oil did you put in the gearbox?
I didn't use oil in the gearbox, its nos. Someone told me in a sport bike thread that I can go 0-60 in 2 seconds if I did it. Works every time[emoji23][emoji23]
In real news, I finally had some time, and decent enough weather, to take care of the seat. I may have posted a pic before but if not here's another (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/0f5c5eea72e45005951768c6799d8eaf.jpg)
the leather was in really bad shape from being left out for so many years. So I bought a ton of Sharpie markers and went to town! Here's what it looks like now(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/89ad453ecdb65326519614aff9e90efa.jpg)
Kidding about the Sharpies. I used these (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/3cda8e026f59d6080e5f8d5d86473a72.jpg)
The leather is still really rough and dried out but it'll do for now.
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I didn't use oil in the gearbox, its nos.
Cryptic! Is it old nos or new nos?
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Cryptic! Is it old nos or new nos?
:hehehe
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I can’t believe almost 10 months has gone by already. I do have a couple updates but more in the way of parts collection. I received the GSXR wheel and headlight but also got a new triple clamp for Christmas. The wheel was black so I had it powder coated blue to match the rear. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/51fd70f7a297e9ea4d32d216bdccd159.jpg)
I’ve been riding the brick a little but it desperately needs the forks replaced. So much to do, so little time.
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This is what the new front end will look like(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/9abb60eb08edaf8ed1a81653a3aa4adc.jpg)
Can’t wait!
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It’s getting closer...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/3d14858c2f296dfe6c2d6a9db21a7195.jpg)
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It’s getting closer...
. . . to making one helluva unicycle.
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. . . to making one helluva unicycle.
Haha Yes but with handlebars instead of a seat
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Would anyone be interested in purchasing this beauty? As much as I love wrenching on this thing I no longer have the time nor resorces. It runs & rides and I still have the original parts including city cases. PM if interested :riding: :riding:
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Would anyone be interested in purchasing this beauty? PM if interested :riding: :riding:
Post it for sale in the FS WTB WTT section along with a photo array of the moto and its various parts. You can bump it to keep the membership riveted on the outcome.