new K1100 '95 in the workshop

[Laitch]

I don't have one of these FAGs but the plug is similar to the 2V Jetronic plug I do have, at least from what I can see on eBay examples and the K1100 manual available at this site. The plug body has a hook at its top that cannot be seen. There is a flat stainless steel latch plate close beneath the bottom of the plug (red arrow in photo). Pushing downward on that latch will allow the plug to be removed if you pull the bottom of the plug to the left approximately 20mm. After that, to remove the plug, pull the bottom of it leftward, swing it outward and upward to decouple it from the pins and unhook it from the controller.
No warranty is expressed or implied concerning the quality of these instructions.

[matjas]

thanks for this explanation - I tried to wigglewiggle this latch any direction possible and this is one piece of a persistent latch that is :D no way.
as the bottom screw is a torx type i THINK this is to remain there forever and not to be taken out for disconnecting. I will give it all one more go.
given the 'rails' along the pins the plug neds to go simply OUT - no twisting.
I mean, given the relatively vibeless nature of the brick, I can run it like that for a ride or two but dont want to push my luck too far.

[Laitch]

given the 'rails' along the pins the plug neds to go simply OUT - no twisting.
 I tried to wigglewiggle this latch any direction possible

Wrong. There's a word everybody likes to receive.   
The plug cannot just go "out" because its top edge is hooked to that rolled portion of the housing at the top. See the attached diagram of an example of this type of plug. Note the hook at one end. Now if your plug doesn't have a hook it might have a wedge on its end to keep that end coupled with the unit. The plug doesn't get twisted; it gets pivoted to the left and upward.

The latch doesn't get "twisted" or "wiggled."It gets pried or pushed downward. See the attached photo
Try this. Pry the latch downward, keep it held down then pull the bottom of the plug to the left passing over the latch then swing the plug upward with your third hand.
I believe the faith and logic in you will overcome your intuition and you will prevail, maybe. 


 

[matjas]

all good comes to an end - holidays are one painful example :D but here I am back.

have collected all the pieces of the brick and some mortar and stuck it together. not too many pieces left off :D


new HEL steel lines all the way around the bike. OFC took some time and DOT4 to have it all bled properly but managed to lock the front on the tarmac today so I reckon it all is doing tits job :D

BUT. there is always this, isnt there?
BLINKERS - have checked the whole machine before going for a 70kms 'checkup' ride as I am planning to do a cross country shot this weekend - all worked purrfectly. BUT - when I press the blinker button it only blinks ONCE or twice. Then once in a while it works as supposed to and then it again just does ONE blink. Completely random. I checked upon arrival at home again - engine off - NO PROB = checked this like a dizen of times and everything is working good. I reckon this must be some time relay or something? I dudnt touch anything in the relay box. I swear :) Is this a known issue?

/added after some searching/ Yes I have ABS, have hazard lights, fuel pump is going ok and the ignition switch gives me no trouble. Seems like /this is to be confirmed/ the trouble appears when the engine is running. There was no trouble whatsoever with blinking when I came back home. The only thing I did was cleaning all of the plugs with deoxit and undoing the main frame ground, cleaned it and retightened all three connectors.

and.... have her run in the garage for something like 30 minutes alltogether, 3 full heat cycles. no prob. after about 60kms fuelled her up and coming back from the cash register I noticed two puddles of oil that just collected somehwere in the fairing... well - by the smell it is motul oil. FECK!
coming back at home I discovered 'tis coming from under the hall wires tunnel. NOT the hall seal - this has been checked.
foind out I could still tighten the M6 nuts in this place by 1/3 of a turn, cleaned all the mess with white spirit to bone dry and left if on the center stand for the night. I will see in the morning if the leak will turn into a 'wee weep' or stays the same.

question is /although I seem to know the answer/ do I have to take the valve cover off as well if need be to have it all resealed?
another question is - WHY on earth BMW didnt use some proper grade thin gasket in there?
I have read somewhere in the forum to use a thin cotton thread to help sealing this summabitch cover. If I need to take this off AGAYN I will use something additional instead of just the RTV.

this really left me in pieces. I really DO hope retightening the screws will do the job. If not... well this is going to be a major teardown again.


on the flipside... the bike is running very well. synchronising the throttles has helped a lot with the buzz, new front tire also has helped to eliminate the slow speed wobble. all in all I am VERY happy how the bike is riding. new front suspension oil, resettled rear tire, regreased head bearings. all ready for the trip but I'd rather not to mark the pavement and make my real tire slip.

[matjas]

 

a little bit of an update. blinkers work as supposed when parked both with engine off and on. I am suspecting this can be related to the the autocancelling function then if it only happens when being on the move??? I think

as to the leak cause this is giving me shakes:

the leak seems to be coming from behind the wiring 'tunne' behind the front cover. so - this could have been coming either directly from between the cover and the engine exactly at this spot /unlikely/ OR this can be coming from the hall seal /fitted new/ BUT - when I took the hall sensor cover off there was just a drop of oil in there - I just dont remember if there was a weep hole in the apparatus that could be draining into the channel and out??? foreseeing from the German engineering that when you have a leak the whole hall unit is not filled with oil???
if the above is true then I have NOT the cover leaking but the teflon seal is not sealing - damaged, improperly seated or IDK.

have everything sprayed in the morning with white spirit and blown with compressed air. had the bike running to full hot for 15 minutes. now - waiting for the first drop to come out.


IF this is the seal I think I will give it a chance and having the whole hall internals out I will try the old offroad trick and will insert a thin PE plastic wedge and run around the seal to have the lip reseated onto the shaft. if this is unsuccessful ... well - tearup time again 

side cover left, radio, valve cover, front cover... you know the drill

[daveson]

I think you're right that the self-cancelling feature is the problem. I think there will be a blue/green wire from the Speedo to the flasher unit. If isolating this from the flasher unit results in the indicators working while in motion, that would varify your guess. Maybe remove the wire or just wrap a slither of paper over its pin to the flasher unit.

[matjas]

Good News is that the flashers have repaired themselves. Somehow.
The leak from the hall unit I rectified by running a ply of PET bottle around the perimeter and if there was something in there or maybe the lip was not seated properly all is good and dandy now. Not a drop after 2000kms. It is a cool trick for all the inmates if the thing leaks upon reassembly.

[Laitch]

Maybe it was over-filled with blinker fluid and enough of it evaporated.

[matjas]

Probanbly more of it evaporated on the RIGHT. The left thing is still working not so RIGHT sonetimes :)

[matjas]

Hi guys

Time to sum up the 2023 riding season.
Managed to clock 16000kms, 10 out of which were done on my brick. I also managed to do IronButt covering 1670kms in 18 hours - also on the brick. This has been a huge accomplishment for me as I wanted to do this for many years.

The bike has been parked in my garage since the beginning of September and lightly betrayed with riding my R80GS :D but only lightly.
Now I have plenty of other motorbike jobs during the winter but I am planning to do the one tight inlet valve and see what could be done about the blinkers blinking just 2-3 times when I press the button. When the bike gets fully hot this symptome goes away.

Also - have a trouble getting new MetzelerLasertec for the rear wheel :( Have a NEW front Lasertec and wanted the same tyre at the back. Seems like I need to think about the RS wheel :( not my favourite route as I want to keep the bike original.


Finally - the front springs seem very saggy to me. When loaded up and with tank full I seem not to have much stroke left :( MAYBE new springs need to be on order or I am thinking about fitting air valves to both legs - this would certainly help.


ANYWAYS - Merry Xmas everyone and hope the NewYear will be better for all of you and for the humanity in general. We need it.

best regards from Poland.
M

[matjas]

Thought I will post a little update at my second visit into my brick checking up the valves. I remember last time /with some adventures in mixing the imperial and metric feeler gauges :D/ i managed to come to a conclusion that at 45kkm one INTAKE valve was almost too tight. As I had a lot of other stuff to do on my K1100 I decided to leave it as is and ride into the season but make sure I will do another measurement before I go into 2024.

So this is what is looks like now:

                     1                    2                      3                      4 
INTAKE    0,15 0,13        0,20 0,18          0,18 0,20          0,18 0,20

EXHAUST 0,35 0,32        0,27 0,27          0,35 0,35          0,29 0,29

So the valves flow a bit but this being the first proper adjustment I hope it is going to last me a long time. Decided to swap SIX buckets /150USD :( with my usual BMW rebate/ and one of them could be just relocated - this will bring all the clearances right back into the factory upper spec. I think I will not be inclined to go there in another 20-30kkm that could be 4 years so this is money well spent.
I know the valvetrain, chain, rails and valves are all OK.

So people - do check up the valves sometimes :D as they are nothing but eternal.