Post by: beemuker on August 21, 2019, 04:57:59 PM
Post by: E30_Crazy on August 21, 2019, 11:11:17 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 22, 2019, 12:02:30 AM
Turn signals still whacky, sometimes all blink, sometimes wrong side blink, sometimes nothing.The casting of runes indicates the pulling of the flasher relay then the careful cleaning its pins and sockets might be enlightening.
Post by: beemuker on August 23, 2019, 11:44:49 AM
The casting of runes indicates the pulling of the flasher relay then the careful cleaning its pins and sockets might be enlightening.ok, did that, and rechecked the fuses. still whacky. could you recast the runes for me? lent mine to the neighbor who never returns things.
Post by: daveson on August 23, 2019, 06:10:55 PM
There are many possibilities.
Do you mean pressing the left indicator turns on the right, but the right doesn't work the left? That would point to an earth fail on the left, and like a thief it steals earth from the hazards.
Or the other way around.
Or something else.
Post by: rbm on August 23, 2019, 07:15:16 PM
Check power on the relay Pin 58E (Grey/White)
If power is present and in spec on these wires, then another thing to try is to open the flasher module and reheat the solder joints where the pins join the PCB. Sometimes the solder joints go cold and don't make a good connection.
Post by: beemuker on August 24, 2019, 12:42:10 PM
So you have power to the indicators, power to the hazards, earth to the hazards, but an earth failure to the indicators. Too the indicators, not from them. Possibly the indicator switch, as that is a high wear spot.pressing R turn button= all turn signals light as long as button is depressed
There are many possibilities.
Do you mean pressing the left indicator turns on the right, but the right doesn't work the left? That would point to an earth fail on the left, and like a thief it steals earth from the hazards.
Or the other way around.
Or something else.
pressing L turn button= same
hazard switch= all flash and continue, but when turned off L flashes and stays on
cancel switch= all flash, whether on or not
Post by: Laitch on August 24, 2019, 02:53:30 PM
pressing R turn button= all turn signals light as long as button is depressedBecause the left and right turn signals are on separate switches, if it were my problem I'd rap on that relay a few times with a screwdriver handle to see if that had an effect—any effect at all. If it did, I'd plan on getting a new relay. If it didn't, I'd try testing it.
pressing L turn button= same
hazard switch= all flash and continue, but when turned off L flashes and stays on
cancel switch= all flash, whether on or not
Post by: beemuker on August 24, 2019, 03:40:02 PM
Because the left and right turn signals are on separate switches, if it were my problem I'd rap on that relay a few times with a screwdriver handle to see if that had an effect—any effect at all. If it did, I'd plan on getting a new relay. If it didn't, I'd try testing it.thanks laitch
New relay = big bucks?
testing may be beyond my electrical expertise, though I do have a digital meter or 2, but rapping on it looks doable.I'll try it.
maybe i can find a used "good one" and swap them out to see if that's the problem.
looked on fleabay:
there is a used one for a k1100/k100 that has the same part number for $72.30 or best offer
another from a k75 for $94.95
and a new one for over $200
hate to spend the $ if the flasher's not even the problem. how do I test it?
anyone got one they want to loan me, or sell?
Post by: Laitch on August 24, 2019, 03:57:27 PM
anyone got one they want to loan me, or sell?Don't throw parts at a moto until you're certain you need them. Step 1: Rapity, rap, rap.
Post by: Laitch on August 24, 2019, 04:33:17 PM
Post by: beemuker on August 24, 2019, 06:22:48 PM
Don't throw parts at a moto until you're certain you need them. Step 1: Rapity, rap, rap.I rapped. no change.
Post by: beemuker on August 24, 2019, 06:25:26 PM
Check power on the relay Pin 58E (Grey/White)
If power is present and in spec on these wires, then another thing to try is to open the flasher module and reheat the solder joints where the pins join the PCB.
so do I pull the relay and see if I get voltage at those pins?
Post by: daveson on August 25, 2019, 06:10:52 PM
How do the indicators work if you:
1 Unplug the hazard switch.
2 Unplug or press the horn.
3 Unplug or press the indicator cancel switch.
I know this is wishful thinking but if, for example, the indicators work normally with the hazards unplugged, at least you can ride until the problem is sorted.
Post by: beemuker on August 25, 2019, 08:34:41 PM
In the mean time, a couple of quick questions.pressing the horn has no effect.
How do the indicators work if you:
1 Unplug the hazard switch.
2 Unplug or press the horn.
3 Unplug or press the indicator cancel switch.
I know this is wishful thinking but if, for example, the indicators work normally with the hazards unplugged, at least you can ride until the problem is sorted.
pressing the cancel sw lights all while depressed
I don't know what you mean by unpluging the switches.
Post by: daveson on August 26, 2019, 02:08:02 AM
The retaining tabs are old and brittle, so go easy.
If pressing the horn at the same time as the indicators, watchya got? The turn signal cancel at the same time as the indicators, watchya got? Long shots but quick.
And there are some other suggestions you havn't reported back on yet.
Post by: beemuker on August 26, 2019, 12:37:22 PM
Under the tank, on the left hand side, is the hazard plug, with three wires, brown, white/blue and yellow/ purple. On the right, inside the big plug, is the turn signal cancel switch plug, brown/white. The horn switch is not separate, the lazy way would be remove the horn relay, probably to no effect.when I depress the signal cancel, all signals light and flash for as long as depressed, pressing the horn switch seems to have no effect.
The retaining tabs are old and brittle, so go easy.
If pressing the horn at the same time as the indicators, watchya got? The turn signal cancel at the same time as the indicators, watchya got? Long shots but quick.
And there are some other suggestions you havn't reported back on yet.
When I press either r or l turn signal, all flash as long as depressed. Same as cancel switch. Pressing both cancel and turn signal, same, all flash.
When I get a chance I,ll pull the tank and check the plug connections
Thanks
Post by: rbm on August 26, 2019, 05:03:56 PM
After doing that, and if you haven't already done so, then disassemble/clean/reassemble the following :
* clean all the grounds.
* clean the starter.
* clean the handlebar switches with contact cleaner.
* clean the flasher module connections.
Post by: beemuker on August 26, 2019, 05:11:03 PM
Check the ground connection in the multi-connector in the tail of the bike. It's possible that your signal whack is related to a bad ground.thanks, the starter and flasher module done.
After doing that, and if you haven't already done so, then disassemble/clean/reassemble the following :
* clean all the grounds.
* clean the starter.
* clean the handlebar switches with contact cleaner.
* clean the flasher module connections.
I was going to get to the switches next
Post by: beemuker on August 27, 2019, 05:27:33 PM
Check the ground connection in the multi-connector in the tail of the bike. It's possible that your signal whack is related to a bad ground.ground connection good at tail multi - connector and at lights.
After doing that, and if you haven't already done so, then disassemble/clean/reassemble the following :
* clean all the grounds.
* clean the starter.
* clean the handlebar switches with contact cleaner.
* clean the flasher module connections.
foam at top of abs module a sticky mess.
as I was testing, noticed if I activate hazard switch, when I turn it off, left flashers flash , and pressing right or left turn or cancel switch it turns off?
I'll get to the switches next.
Post by: johnny on August 27, 2019, 05:30:18 PM
there are only 2 people who know what is causing that whack....
me and inge k...
j o
Post by: beemuker on August 27, 2019, 05:54:51 PM
greetings...ok, I guess Inge is out, what's it going to take to get you to spill the beans? I already fueled up.
there are only 2 people who know what is causing that whack....
me and inge k...
j o
Post by: Martin on August 27, 2019, 06:43:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on August 27, 2019, 06:47:43 PM
Post by: daveson on August 28, 2019, 12:40:11 AM
Sadly it's not looking good for the flasher unit. I'm thinking the later flasher units are not as easy to dismantle. The contact arm might be broken. If you hold the flasher unit horizontally, with the eight pins row above the seven, give it a shake, you might hear a faint noise, possibly a broken arm sliding around.
Anyway, see what you got after cleaning the parts suggested by RBM.
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 06:01:03 AM
I'm thinking the later flasher units are not as easy to dismantle.What does your thinking have to do with this? Do you have experience with them?
Post by: daveson on August 28, 2019, 06:11:06 AM
The old one works well in the newer model. It's one of the things I like about bricks, I can't see planned obsolescence in them, and a lot of stuff backwards compatible to boot.
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 06:22:30 AM
My newest brick is about 1990, a k75. Although not as new as Beemukers, it is sealed on the bottom. The bottom is not sealed, and easily removed, on my other bricks.Please explain how you opened the relay. That might help others if not Beemuker. There are no other part numbers in Max's fiche for that flasher that indicate a different part has superseded the original, so his is likely the same as yours
Post by: daveson on August 28, 2019, 06:34:18 AM
Post by: johnny on August 28, 2019, 10:25:56 AM
check all yourn fuses... they all gonna checks good... right...
replace all of them with new unused fuses...
try it... you gotts flashing... then remove fuse 3 and try it... you gotts nothing or flashing... what is it... double check fuse 6 cause its whack...
j o
Post by: beemuker on August 28, 2019, 10:48:43 AM
OK, I have reproduced the symptoms by having both faults, disconnecting earth at the rear, and disabling the outer relay contacts. I did this by placing thin cardboard to both sides of the contact arm.you are correct. my flasher is not easy to disassemble. after tearing out the rubber waterproofing, the long sides are loose, the short sides however won't seem to budge, even with prying to almost the breaking point. if I shake the unit, I do hear a slight rattle/faint noise. I don't want to destroy a part I'm not even sure is the problem since a new one is so pricey.
Sadly it's not looking good for the flasher unit. I'm thinking the later flasher units are not as easy to dismantle. The contact arm might be broken. If you hold the flasher unit horizontally, with the eight pins row above the seven, give it a shake, you might hear a faint noise, possibly a broken arm sliding around.
Anyway, see what you got after cleaning the parts suggested by RBM.
Post by: beemuker on August 28, 2019, 10:52:26 AM
greetings...thanks,I'll try this before I remove the tank to get at those connections.
check all yourn fuses... they all gonna checks good... right...
replace all of them with new unused fuses...
try it... you gotts flashing... then remove fuse 3 and try it... you gotts nothing or flashing... what is it...
j o
Post by: beemuker on August 28, 2019, 11:37:27 AM
thanks,I'll try this before I remove the tank to get at those connections.new fuse did not negate whack.
Post by: beemuker on August 28, 2019, 11:40:25 AM
you are correct. my flasher is not easy to disassemble. after tearing out the rubber waterproofing, the long sides are loose, the short sides however won't seem to budge, even with prying to almost the breaking point. if I shake the unit, I do hear a slight rattle/faint noise. I don't want to destroy a part I'm not even sure is the problem since a new one is so pricey.finally did get it apart. relays look good, nothing looks loose, the slight rattle appears to be the circuit board moving slightly in it's slot. a complicated module with lots going on. got to get back to repairing hurricane michael damage to house and keeping ahead of the lawn mowing. at least Michael didn't damage the brick and it still runs great, all except the blinker whack. I would like to get them working for night rides.I can get the left to work by turning the hazard on and off.
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 04:36:25 PM
finally did get it apart. relays look good, . . .Did you check to see if you had power at those pins rbm described? How does a cold solder joint differ in looks from a good one, Beemuker? If you did, what's stopping you from following rbm's instructions. I think I'm losing the plot.If power is present and in spec on these wires, then another thing to try is to open the flasher module and reheat the solder joints where the pins join the PCB. Sometimes the solder joints go cold and don't make a good connection.
Post by: beemuker on August 28, 2019, 05:13:45 PM
Did you check to see if you had power at those pins rbm described? How does a cold solder joint differ in looks from a good one, Beemuker? If you did, what's stopping you from following rbm's instructions. I think I'm losing the plot.I've tried to follow the suggestions I've had time for and I'm a little overwhelmed and am not sure how to check power at those pins or what a bad solder joint looks like. seems like there are thousands of tiny solder joints on this flasher.
Post by: rbm on August 28, 2019, 06:01:19 PM
Cold solder joints generally look granular in texture and not shiny smooth. Good solder joints are smooth, shiny and no hint of a grain to the solder.
(https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/001/978/large1024/tools_Header_Joints.jpg?1396777967)
You can examine the module PCB under intense light and a magnifying glass. But, in the end, it's really easier to just reheat all the large joints to the connector pins. It really helps to add a bit of resin core flux or electronic solder to the joint as it is being reheated so that the existing solder reflows. Use a good iron, not too hot (600°F - 700°F) and don't dwell too long on the joint (3-5 seconds maximum).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VYA9ufb4Jc
Post by: daveson on August 28, 2019, 07:08:57 PM
You say you can get left to work by turning hazards on then off. Does this mean your left and right buttons cant turn on anymore? Does your right still work? It seems like the symptoms are changing. I reproduced your symptom of right cancelling left by disabling the outer relay but then the right didn't work unless I disconnected earth at the rear, which made them increasingly dim as that puts them in series.
Anyway since the cover is off your flasher, maybe make a photo. Have an overall look, sometimes not just a crack but silver bits are missing, and it's green coating.
Another easy check with the cover off, you can see one contact closing with the left indicator on, the other contact with the right, and both contacts closing with the hazards.
When your indicators worked like hazards, we're they at normal brightness, or some hardly noticeable?
If I were beside your brick, I would try johnnys suggestion with ten fuses and check they are tight.
Your hazards should remain on even with the key off.
Maybe do a stock take, there is some easily missed stuff, like E 30 Crazy's, keep an eye on the clock with your tests, or all the lights for that matter, that they work and are unaffected by the indicators. Or swap the load shed and horn relays, if the part numbers match. A long shot but easy and quicker than the flasher.
Post by: daveson on August 28, 2019, 08:56:25 PM
With a full page draw the harness socket as you see it. Label them all, and watch someone check it.
On the top row I've got blank, blank, c, blank, 31, ta, tr, tl
Bottom row is R, L, 30, i, 15, blank, W.
Test with ignition on, engine off.
With test light clip on battery positive:
Touch probe to engine/frame bolt, the bulb will glow, your contact is good.
Put probe in W; test light off and on with hazard switch pressed.
Probe in ta; light off, and on when turn cancel is pressed.
Probe in 31; light should remain on.
Probe in tr; light constantly on while turn right switch pressed.
Probe in tl; light constantly on while turn left switch is pressed.
Don't let the probe touch anything else.
Post by: beemuker on August 29, 2019, 08:33:58 AM
Yep, it is daunting to look at, never fear, motobrick is here.WENT for a ride last night and the turn signals worked normally, for a while, then went back to being whacky, left or right light up all indicators with no flash as long as button is pushed,, hazards work, but when turned off left continue to flash and right, left, or cancel all work as a cancel.All at normal brightness, no dimming.
You say you can get left to work by turning hazards on then off. Does this mean your left and right buttons cant turn on anymore? Does your right still work? It seems like the symptoms are changing. I reproduced your symptom of right cancelling left by disabling the outer relay but then the right didn't work unless I disconnected earth at the rear, which made them increasingly dim as they are in series.
Anyway since the cover is off your flasher, maybe make a photo. Have an overall look, sometimes not just a crack but silver bits are missing, and it's green coating.
Another easy check with the cover off, you can see one contact closing with the left indicator on, the other contact with the right, and both contacts closing with the hazards.
When your indicators worked like hazards, we're they at normal brightness, or some hardly noticeable?
If I were beside your brick, I would try johnnys suggestion with ten fuses and check they are tight.
Your hazards should remain on even with the key off.
Maybe do a stock take, there is some easily missed stuff, like E 30 Crazy's, keep an eye on the clock with your tests, or all the lights for that matter, that they work and are unaffected by the indicators. Or swap the load shed and horn relays, if the part numbers match. A long shot but easy and quicker than the flasher.
Post by: rbm on August 29, 2019, 08:51:06 AM
Post by: alabrew on August 29, 2019, 05:12:02 PM
WENT for a ride last night and the turn signals worked normally, for a while, then went back to being whacky, left or right light up all indicators with no flash as long as button is pushed,, hazards work, but when turned off left continue to flash and right, left, or cancel all work as a cancel.All at normal brightness, no dimming.
This sounds like shorting out wires in the harness moving around and causing whack.
Post by: johnny on August 29, 2019, 05:22:55 PM
do have a signalminder sm-6 in there...
j o
Post by: beemuker on August 29, 2019, 08:31:43 PM
OK, so this is telling you that the flasher module is working, the pins are making contact with the plug OK, the wiring is not too badly messed up and switches are operational. You need to check grounds again, especially under the tank. Also, check the all of the fuses for continuity. ATO fuses are NOTORIOUS for looking intact but electrically open. Pull each and use a multimeter to verify each fuse even though you trust your eyes.replaced all the fuses with new ones. no effect
Post by: daveson on August 30, 2019, 04:00:29 AM
Turning hazards on and off activates left indicators. So the left is stealing earth from the hazards (blue/brown from yellow/violet; tl from w) therefore normal brightness. It doesn't take long to put the test probe in five sockets and reduces the guesswork, also check for touching wires, probably in or near the relay box.
On the left hand side of the bike, there is a spot where the loom rubs on the edge of a panel, at least it does on mine.
Unplug the hazards, temporarily you don't need them. This will simplify the problem.
Whatchya got.
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 08:55:40 AM
+1 with alabrew
Turning hazards on and off activates left indicators. So the left is stealing earth from the hazards (blue/brown from yellow/violet; tl from w) therefore normal brightness. It doesn't take long to put the test probe in five sockets and reduces the guesswork, also check for touching wires, probably in or near the relay box.[quote/]
are you talking about these sockets under the tank or under the flasher module. am I using a meter or test lamp, I'm no electrical genius, I need more specific directions. sorry
Post by: daveson on August 30, 2019, 09:31:42 AM
The hazard plug is under the tank on the left, just poking out of the loom. Unplug it then see how your indicators work. It connects brown, yellow/violet and sometimes white/blue. You can also trace it back from the switch.
Last, if no luck, you can use a test light to check the looms socket for the flasher relay. Make sure you don't put the probe in the wrong socket.
There is a good chance the loom is simply worn on its underside, on the left, rubbing on a part of the k75s panel, from memory.
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 11:40:38 AM
It only occurred to me today that there is a high wear spot on the loom at the left side where it rubs on a panel, this could be an easy solution.pulled the tank
The hazard plug is under the tank on the left, just poking out of the loom. Unplug it then see how your indicators work. It connects brown, yellow/violet and sometimes white/blue. You can also trace it back from the switch.
Last, if no luck, you can use a test light to check the looms socket for the flasher relay. Make sure you don't put the probe in the wrong socket.
There is a good chance the loom is simply worn on its underside, on the left, rubbing on a part of the k75s panel, from memory.
thought i found the problem as the hazard wires were mashed under a bolt. freed them and cut the black protecting plastic but the wires looked unbroken .The ground tested good and I get continuity from the switch to the plug when i disconnect the hazard wire plug [brn/yel violet], The turn signals do not work, I get nothing from the right,on the left I hear a slight click at the flasher and a faint flash from the spedo indicator.
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 11:42:17 AM
greetings...no, had to look that up.
do have a signalminder sm-6 in there...
j o
Post by: johnny on August 30, 2019, 11:59:05 AM
good... cause the seven fitty takes a sm-5...
j o
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 12:47:54 PM
Check power on the relay Pin 15 (Green/Black)got power and Inspec on the green black got power and Inspec on the green black don’t have a gray white and no marking for a 58E on my flasher module
Check power on the relay Pin 58E (Grey/White)
If power is present and in spec on these wires, then another thing to try is to open the flasher module and reheat the solder joints where the pins join the PCB. Sometimes the solder joints go cold and don't make a good connection.
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 01:15:31 PM
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 01:53:40 PM
Daveson, where is the looms socket, is it one of those under the clear plastic protectors, and how do you get them apart without cutting the plastic? mine are not flexible anymore, and exactly how do you test it?update: got them apart and tested the grounds, tested fine
Post by: beemuker on August 30, 2019, 02:10:33 PM
Has rbm's suggestion in Reply #5 of heating likely cold solder joints within the flasher unit been undertaken yet? If not, why not? I don't see that checked off in the list.no
the joints look good, no movement , no cracks. I don't have a good soldier iron and am afraid of messing up a possibly good and expensive part. I will see if I can borrow/buy a better iron and get to this if nothing else fixes the issue.
Gota possibly bigger problem named Dorian
Post by: daveson on August 30, 2019, 05:40:30 PM
I use electrical circuit board cleaner, but deoxit seems to be the go. Whenever I ask for it in a shop, I get looked at funny, I say don't look at me, l don't know what I'm talking about either.
Clean it as best you can, then dry it, put it back together. Now test your indicators, horn and light switches. Then do the right side, then test your switches again, especially on your right handlebar.
On the frames central bar, on the left, you will see a bunch of brown wires bolted to it. Doesn't matter if they look good, scrub them, spray cleaner on them, dry them, clean them real good. Clean each one separately. Test your switches again.
If lucky, your indicators will now work properly. Look for any exposed wires and wear spots. Then clean all the other plugs. Look on the left, for the wear spot mentioned earlier. There should be a rubber grommet to protect wires exiting the relay box.
With your fingernail flat on the horn relay and a short press on the left indicator, you might feel a vibration, then that is where the noise is coming from. The left indicator is trying to steal earth from the horn, but failing, good.
Post by: beemuker on September 01, 2019, 03:51:29 PM
So the indicators are stealing earth because they have none of their own. The clear plastic cylinder thing on the left is stuck to its loom. Prise something thin in between, very carefully, then wd40 or something, then slide it back. Disconnect the plug, give it a good clean.Tried all that, I was not lucky. I'm ready to put the tank back on and see if I can source a not so expensive flasher module. at least I may be able to eliminate that as the problem.
I use electrical circuit board cleaner, but deoxit seems to be the go. Whenever I ask for it in a shop, I get looked at funny, I say don't look at me, l don't know what I'm talking about either.
Clean it as best you can, then dry it, put it back together. Now test your indicators, horn and light switches. Then do the right side, then test your switches again, especially on your right handlebar.
On the frames central bar, on the left, you will see a bunch of brown wires bolted to it. Doesn't matter if they look good, scrub them, spray cleaner on them, dry them, clean them real good. Clean each one separately. Test your switches again.
If lucky, your indicators will now work properly. Look for any exposed wires and wear spots. Then clean all the other plugs. Look on the left, for the wear spot mentioned earlier. There should be a rubber grommet to protect wires exiting the relay box.
With your fingernail flat on the horn relay and a short press on the left indicator, you might feel a vibration, then that is where the noise is coming from. The left indicator is trying to steal earth from the horn, but failing, good.
Post by: beemuker on September 01, 2019, 03:54:50 PM
greetings...when I remove 3 I gots nada
check all yourn fuses... they all gonna checks good... right...
replace all of them with new unused fuses...
try it... you gotts flashing... then remove fuse 3 and try it... you gotts nothing or flashing... what is it...
j o
Post by: daveson on September 01, 2019, 04:58:12 PM
How do the indicators work with the turn cancel switch unplugged? It's brown white, with its own plug, goes into the plastic cylinder on the right hand side.
How do the indicators work with the instrument cluster unplugged?
Do these tests with the hazards unplugged.
About one inch in front of the normal tank position, on the front, left hand side, the loom may be rubbing against the vertical black infil panel, which surrounds the area where the forks pass through. There could be some exposed wires there.
When the indicators worked like hazards, were both indicator warning lights on the instrument cluster working, or just the side that you pressed?
Post by: beemuker on September 01, 2019, 05:23:15 PM
Before you put the tank back on, a couple of quick, easy questions.too late. put the tank back on. tried to start. no start. did I remember to connect fuel pump plug. no. connected it. still no start. don't heat the fuel pump charging. good grief. I did pull the relays to clean the contacts and they might not have gotten in the same places, but the 3 look the same and have the same part #. I guess I'll be pulling the tank off tomorrow and will get to your questions. how /where do I unplug the hazards and inst cluster?
How do the indicators work with the turn cancel switch unplugged? It's brown white, with its own plug, goes into the plastic cylinder on the right hand side.
How do the indicators work with the instrument cluster unplugged?
Do these tests with the hazards unplugged.
About one inch in front of the normal tank position, on the front, left hand side, the loom may be rubbing against the vertical black infil panel, which surrounds the area where the forks pass through. There could be some exposed wires there.
When the indicators worked like hazards, were both indicator warning lights on the instrument cluster working, or just the side that you pressed?
When I turn the hazards on , then off , the left stays flashing until I turn the hazards off or depress either r or l turn switch.
Post by: mw074 on September 01, 2019, 07:08:34 PM
02 61 31 1 459 224 RELAY FOR FLASHER 0.26 1 $199.59
Post by: daveson on September 01, 2019, 07:21:58 PM
I think if you clean the left indicator and horn connections, your left indicator will then work.
Then clean the right, and the cancel switch.
You gotta do it in a bucket or something, so you don't loose springs and stuff that might fly out.
Post by: beemuker on September 01, 2019, 09:22:16 PM
So you have cleaned all the items on RBM's list except the indicator switches.so do you take them apart by loosening the small philips screw inside once you take it off the bar? then clean
I think if you clean the left indicator and horn connections, your left indicator will then work.
Then clean the right, and the cancel switch.
You gotta do it in a bucket or something, so you don't loose springs and stuff that might fly out.
Post by: daveson on September 01, 2019, 10:14:46 PM
You could read up on it first or just go for it and see how it goes.
Post by: daveson on September 01, 2019, 11:38:29 PM
Post by: beemuker on September 02, 2019, 11:53:46 AM
Try this shortcut before dismantling the left switch. With the switch removed you will see where the blue/brown wire has been soldered at the back. With a test light clip connected well to the battery negative post, touch the probe to the blue/brown soldered spot. Scratch it well for a good contact, or with the probe flat for a longer contact area. The left indicators might now work, then you know that the left switch has failed to provide earth and you need to dismantle it. The help of the probe might even shake things up a bit for the switch. Try with the probe and pressing the switch. No luck first time, give it a few goes. Or even better, a jumper wire with a fuse.ok, will try, any idea why moto will not start. I can hear the pump .
Post by: Martin on September 02, 2019, 04:10:06 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: beemuker on September 02, 2019, 04:24:44 PM
The first thing that I do on a non starting bike is check the spark plugs. Are they wet or dry???will do, but I could smell gas. I must have disconnected or neglected to reconnect something, I tried to clean all the connectors under the tank. .
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on September 02, 2019, 04:48:18 PM
The sensor is in a bad position and is subjected to water and road crap. I use heavy silicone grease around the connection in the hope that it will keep out the crap. I have thought about using self melding silicone tape but it would require more effort to get it off if a problem should occur.
Regards Martin.
Post by: beemuker on September 02, 2019, 05:21:40 PM
If your smelling petrol, it could be a faulty temperature sensor or a dirty connection. Pull the fuel pump fuse # 6 Krafftstoppe and try and start on the residual fuel in the combustion chamber. If it starts it will eventually die as the fuel runs out, but it can be kept running by ramming the fuse home and throttle manipulation before it dies. It won't be running smooth, more like a hairy goat. I've managed to limp home twice by doing this.thanks I think it’s just something like the Killswitch connect Or something else I just left disconnected I’m gonna take the tank off and look around and see if I see anything obvious I’ll report back thanks again
The sensor is in a bad position and is subjected to water and road crap. I use heavy silicone grease around the connection in the hope that it will keep out the crap. I have thought about using self melding silicone tape but it would require more effort to get it off if a problem should occur.
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on September 02, 2019, 05:51:37 PM
Which reminds me, when for example you pressed the left indicator, did you have six lights on (4 indicators and 2 warning lights on the instrument cluster) or five lights (4 indicators and the left warning light?)
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 09:11:10 AM
Beemuker, I have a good used flasher relay if you need to replace it.thanks, but if you want 200 for it, I can buy a used one on fleabay for $70.
02 61 31 1 459 224 RELAY FOR FLASHER 0.26 1 $199.59
Post by: mw074 on September 03, 2019, 09:24:14 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 09:54:34 AM
I was just listing the OEM part number. $50. plus shipping for it.thanks. if the other solutions don't pan out, i'll probably take you up on it, just to eliminate that possibility.
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 09:57:33 AM
You got the green neutral light on the instrument cluster?6 lights on. and I have the neutral light.
Which reminds me, when for example you pressed the left indicator, did you have six lights on (4 indicators and 2 warning lights on the instrument cluster) or five lights (4 indicators and the left warning light?)
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 10:33:48 AM
thanks I think it’s just something like the Killswitch connect Or something else I just left disconnected I’m gonna take the tank off and look around and see if I see anything obvious I’ll report back thanks againtried to start and checked the plugs, they looked dry, but when I removed the hose at the fuel rail, gas shot out, so the fuel was pressurized so the pump is working?, and I'm getting spark, ground the plug and cranked while I had the plugs out. ????
I'm going to remove the tank now and see if I've left anything disconnected.
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 11:16:59 AM
Try this shortcut before dismantling the left switch. With the switch removed you will see where the blue/brown wire has been soldered at the back. With a test light clip connected well to the battery negative post, touch the probe to the blue/brown soldered spot.
all flash, just like if I use the hazard switch.
Scratch it well for a good contact, or with the probe flat for a longer contact area. The left indicators might now work, then you know that the left switch has failed to provide earth and you need to dismantle it. The help of the probe might even shake things up a bit for the switch. Try with the probe and pressing the switch.
no effect, all flash
No luck first time, give it a few goes. Or even better, a jumper wire with a fuse.
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 01:16:05 PM
while poking around under the tank I discovered the ground bolt attached to the frame .Never saw it as a ton of wires were covering it. took it off and cleaned the ring terminals and frame, turn whack seems to be fixed.
unfortunately moto will not start. it cranks, appears to get fuel to the rail, has spark, but plugs appear to be dry.It started fine before I tried to fix the blinkers.
at least I can be safe in my shed with functional blinkers. :laitch
Post by: Laitch on September 03, 2019, 01:58:16 PM
at least I can be safe in my shed with functional blinkers. :laitchShed safety is important!
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 02:04:40 PM
Shed safety is important!sure is
will you cast the runes for this new issue. we have a rare week with no rain here on the panhandle as Dorian seems to be using up all the water vapor. looks to be weakening and staying out to sea for awhile.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 03, 2019, 02:17:18 PM
I can recall someone who had one of the wires get under a cable. Took him an entire weekend to find it.
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 02:52:50 PM
Go back and make absolutely sure you reconnected every brown wire to the screw under the tank.I checked pretty good as I had left one off so I triple checked. but will check again when I get the tank off again.
I can recall someone who had one of the wires get under a cable. Took him an entire weekend to find it.
Post by: daveson on September 03, 2019, 06:32:40 PM
Regardless, swap the relays back again, give the pins a clean first.
No luck, push them in and out a few times.
Post by: beemuker on September 03, 2019, 07:27:50 PM
Does the horn work?yes, horn works
Regardless, swap the relays back again, give the pins a clean first.
No luck, push them in and out a few times.
Post by: Laitch on September 03, 2019, 08:37:44 PM
will you cast the runes for this new issue.I've returned them to Banggood's wiccan supply division for a refund. I never should have opted for a cheap set.
Post by: beemuker on September 04, 2019, 09:43:19 AM
I've returned them to Banggood's wiccan supply division for a refund. I never should have opted for a cheap set.teaser
:clown
Post by: beemuker on September 04, 2019, 10:39:04 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 04, 2019, 10:53:08 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 04, 2019, 11:30:06 AM
Blinker whack appears to have been caused by a bad ground at the location under the tank.
No start from blown #6 fuse. probably caused by shorting a wire during testing.
thanks everyone for your help.I'm going riding :1thumbup
Post by: johnny on September 04, 2019, 11:35:49 AM
:thisplacewhack
one of these days you moes will come to realize its not always the fore pin... sometimes its the fuses... dont doubt me...
Screenshot_20190904-104118.jpg (45.67 kB . 768x544 - viewed 332 times)j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 04, 2019, 11:38:25 AM
Thank God this thread has ended!
Post by: beemuker on September 04, 2019, 12:36:17 PM
:1thumbupnever say never :blaaa
Thank God this thread has ended!
Post by: Soggz on September 08, 2019, 01:40:52 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 14, 2019, 01:06:33 PM
Post by: daveson on September 14, 2019, 08:58:59 PM
Maybe clean the fuses and earth's again, and the other connectors while you're in there.
Post by: beemuker on September 18, 2019, 09:01:00 AM
I was just listing the OEM part number. $50. plus shipping for it.I'll buy it so I can eliminate the flasher as being the issue. pm'd you but didn't get a response yet.
Post by: volador on September 19, 2019, 01:56:41 AM
I'll buy it so I can eliminate the flasher as being the issue. pm'd you but didn't get a response yet.If MOE is on vacation some alternatives
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Bmw-85-95-Bmw-K75S-K75-Relay-Oem-Electric-Oem-Works-32722310786-Wehrle/323913523249?hash=item4b6ac02031:g:T~IAAOSwD5Jdeno9:sc:USPSPriority!02446!US!-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-85-95-Bmw-K75RT-K75-Lot-Relay-Misc-Electric-Relays-Oem-Works/362742218728?_trkparms=aid%3D555021%26algo%3DPL.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59653%26meid%3Dc5bde0e47d0b459ba8b4a120bdb002d0%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D323901513585%26itm%3D362742218728%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=61311459224&_sacat=6000
Post by: beemuker on September 19, 2019, 10:02:16 AM
Post by: mw074 on September 25, 2019, 06:50:08 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 09:50:32 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 29, 2019, 12:12:18 PM
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 01:02:47 PM
I don't know why you haven't gone in the switches. One screw holds them on the bars, and you don't have to remove them to get to the guts for cleaning.???? I did open them up and spray with contact cleaner, but to get at the contacts there is a small philips screw that you have to remove to get at the guts and I wasn't sure that small parts wouldn't fall out that I would have difficulty putting back together. Am I being to cautious?
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 02:40:13 PM
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 02:52:24 PM
You opened the switches and sprayed them with contact cleaner. Maybe that's why the whack has gone. You might be lucky.not too, as it's come and gone and come and gone since I did it.
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 03:03:39 PM
Do you normally use the cancel switch, or leave it to the self cancel feature?
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 03:30:04 PM
OK, go in deeper. If wiggling the cancel switch fixes the whack, that might point to the problem.wiggling anything does not fix it. My flashers do not go off without the cancel switch, unless they are not working, then they all flash as long as the button is depressed.
Do you normally use the cancel switch, or leave it to the self cancel feature?
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 03:56:00 PM
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 06:06:43 PM
How do the indicators work if you unplug the cancel switch? The indicators should then work, but of course you can't cancel manually then.where/how do you unplug it?
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2019, 06:11:00 PM
... but of course you can't cancel manually then.They can be cancelled manually. A light ball peen hammer will shut them down with a couple of whacks. Find a deal on replacement lenses and bulbs or just keep going straight. There's a lot of enjoyment right out in front of us.
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 06:59:00 PM
The cancel plug is with the right hand plug under the tank. A single wire, brown/white on one side, brown on the other.
With my brick on the centre stand, at~1100rpm, in second gear, the indicators turned off automatically at 50 seconds.
Post by: beemuker on September 29, 2019, 08:11:57 PM
Looking at an old post, you actually fixed the whack by cleaning the earth's under the tank. Clean them again, clean them better, let them dry and reassemble.how do I know I actually fixed it, it comes and goes?but it couldn't hurt, thanks.
The cancel plug is with the right hand plug under the tank. A single wire, brown/white on one side, brown on the other.
With my brick on the centre stand, at~1100rpm, in second gear, the indicators turned off automatically at 50 seconds.
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 10:40:01 PM
Fuses.
Clean the earth's and connections again (maybe it was half fixed because it was half cleaned)
Cleaning the switches.
Test the earth's to the flasher unit.
Unplug the cancel switch and leave it unplugged.
If cancel switch unplugged = no whack,
cancel switch plugged in = whack,
that's the whack.
Post by: daveson on September 29, 2019, 11:40:24 PM
They can be cancelled manually. A light ball peen hammer will shut them down with a couple of whacks.
There's already way too much whack in this thread.
Post by: daveson on September 30, 2019, 03:06:01 AM
You should be able to see it, without removing anything.
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Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2019, 08:29:45 AM
There's already way too much whack in this thread.The thread's title invites it. Go with the flow.
Post by: beemuker on October 01, 2019, 09:37:18 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 01, 2019, 09:58:17 AM
The flashers are currently not whacky, I'm going to wait until they re-whack so I can tell if what I do to unwhack is really unwhacking .Can you summarize what you've done and at what point the whacky became the unwhacked?
Post by: beemuker on March 01, 2020, 02:55:33 PM
finally bit the bullet after trying everything [almost] , purchased a used "Tast-warnbl.-Relais" , 1 459 224 , otherwise known as the flasher relay on fleabay, and guess what, flasher whack cured. Just wanted to update for those who need resolution.
Post by: beemuker on March 01, 2020, 02:58:05 PM
greetings...wish you had just told me, but then I would never have seen all those wires.
there are only 2 people who know what is causing that whack....
me and inge k...
j o
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2020, 05:28:43 PM
finally bit the bullet after trying everything [almost] , purchased a used "Tast-warnbl.-Relais" , 1 459 224 , otherwise known as the flasher relay on fleabay, and guess what, flasher whack cured. Just wanted to update for those who need resolution.Thanks for caring. icon_cheers
Post by: beemuker on March 01, 2020, 06:11:26 PM
Thanks for caring. icon_cheersyour welcome. maybe it will help some hapless motorbricker in the future
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2020, 06:52:21 AM