92 k75s and a particularly dumb idea

[Kt88]

Riding through summer afternoon squalls from the Big Cypress rolling over South Dixie Highway in Kendall while dodging flying palm fronds, broken tree limbs and assorted leaf litter was especially nice.

I mean, with the radials and works shock I should be nimble enough, right?

Have to admit I prefer the gusty rain to blizzards and black ice, but I do miss the memory of vertical elevation or wandering, woodland narrows.

[Laitch]

I mean, with the radials and works shock I should be nimble enough, right?

Couldn't say, Kt. I'd be riding on bias-plies, a YSS and infusions of café cubano.

[Kt88]

Last night I finally ripped out the old alarm system. It’s the first time I’ve disassembled the entire front fairing. There’s a selection of missing screws to replace, but overall it wasn’t that big of a pain to take apart and I look forward to doing it again with new hardware.

Some of the last truly broken things on the bike are in this part: the plastic that goes between the steering stem and the fairing that you can see while riding (I suppose it’s upper fairing mount, but I’m not having luck finding images of it; I’ll find the part number on realOEM for specificity’s sake), the headlight reflector and adjustor, the horn, and now that I’ve removed the miles of alarm wiring, the side marker running lights. I don’t anticipate it being difficult to make the running lights work again- they do work as blinkers still. Just have to tell the second filament to work on key on. The hazard switch is still non functional but I don’t particularly care.

Now the headlight: I may depart from my typical stock-is-best here. Reversibly, of course, but I’ve always been a huge fan of the mid 80s twin headlight muscle bike look and am tempted to put two 3.5” lights in the nacelle with an adjuster surround that mounts in the stock attachments if I can fit them. If I can’t, well, back to the stock I go, of course, just with healthy a reflector and adjustor knobs. I’ve not seen anyone else do that for this bike, so perhaps I’m overestimating the available area in the nacelle. I did this on an old Guzzi Quota I had and it made me love the aesthetic of the bike quite a bit more, but that lighting was dodgy from the factory anyway so there was also no functionality lost.

While I had the bike mostly naked I placed a few rubber strips under the gauge pod to combat the excessive bouncing while retaining some shock absorption ability. We’ll see how that holds up, but the brief reassembly test ride was promising.

Every wire junction I touched and all relays got a healthy dose of DeOxit while I was in there, but thankfully they mostly looked untouched by the hands of time. Thanks, wire connection manufacturers.

[Chaos]

This the part?  You might have some luck finding one on Ebay or Beemer bone yard since these bikes get stripped for cafe projects that usually just leave an unrideable hulk and a pile of parts. I bought the whole mess of parts from BBY cheap after hitting a deer, the rattle can paint was awful which is why I went with the cameo scheme. 

[frankenduck]

Now the headlight: I may depart from my typical stock-is-best here.

The headlight used on the K75S is horrible at actually putting lighting on the road.  The other Ks have decent headlights but the S headlight ducks.

[Kt88]

The headlight used on the K75S is horrible at actually putting lighting on the road.  The other Ks have decent headlights but the S headlight ducks.

I recently put a new LED bucket on my wife’s triumph and it’s the most emasculating experience riding next to each other at night. Her light is unfathomably more abundant, and the pattern and throw seem wonderful as well.

When I do whatever I’m going to do with the headlight, I’ll probably go the route of relays so as to not run main power through the switchgear, which I’m sure is less than mint in its conductivity.

This the part?  You might have some luck finding one on Ebay or Beemer bone yard since these bikes get stripped for cafe projects that usually just leave an unrideable hulk and a pile of parts. I bought the whole mess of parts from BBY cheap after hitting a deer, the rattle can paint was awful which is why I went with the cameo scheme. 

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This part. It’s been held together with blue painter’s tape since I first touched the bike, as that’s what I had with me at the time. I really should look at realOEM to figure out what it’s called precisely.

[Kt88]

All the upgrade plans aside, as predicted, the more I ride it the more I like it. It’s been a wonderful date night vehicle for our little dinner getaways here. Fairly soon I think it’s time to use it as intended and do a few hours on it- maybe to the Keys, maybe to Naples.
 
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[Chaos]

here ya go..   https://www.ebay.com/itm/155972120201?hash=item2450a9ae89:g:CDwAAOSwW89j0CtY&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MYoF1%2FJT5nFf7PvHI9Zn%2B9BaorVDGlUTP%2FSIfhBZSVoI0KXnrlyaKIMc1B3oNP2p6chhpROJK716%2B4jyvvEB0zUnYwx1fvCC85%2Ftcl8bNFz%2BRSTv6tOWatGJ%2FMPQQpZNC8lZmv7apOmBDWXcAzz%2Fr9Uwng2OjykFG8vSoOoJ46gKu9ZWegRRTT%2FP3213uhU4bmGmeyLhO0gb3yalP4r8qDFz66GUMWwXTKMvn9iHHd6HBATQMVEoF7xcBYA5pmllHhAY59JqlA7TL68anHuxGJL%2FU5JKd6YSrhIYdSmGfa0%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8CXtJCXYw

[Kt88]

Well, I got impulsive and decided to be non destructively experimental and try two 30W LED 3.5” lights. The result, while not yet aimed perfectly, is massively brighter than the vintage foggy H4.  I have to think that fresh ample gauge wiring, relays to cut voltage drop, and a healthy and clear reflector and the H4 would never have been questioned.

As it is, I’ll try this little experiment for a few days and contrast. The look I was going for was more CBR400f, but I think I may have landed more in the TDM 850 category.

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[frankenduck]

Well, I got impulsive and decided to be non destructively experimental and try two 30W LED 3.5” lights. The result, while not yet aimed perfectly, is massively brighter than the vintage foggy H4.  I have to think that fresh ample gauge wiring, relays to cut voltage drop, and a healthy and clear reflector and the H4 would never have been questioned.

As it is, I’ll try this little experiment for a few days and contrast. The look I was going for was more CBR400f, but I think I may have landed more in the TDM 850 category.

C9A4E015-E56A-4888-AE78-06ADC3BB4C49.jpeg (38.33 kB . 432x576 - viewed 247 times)

LED headlights generally tend to be "binary" (for lack of a better term) and aren't impacted by voltage drop like filament bulbs are.

[Laitch]

Well, I got impulsive and decided to be non destructively experimental and try two 30W LED 3.5” lights. The result, while not yet aimed perfectly, is massively brighter than the vintage foggy H4. 

What is the model number of the led lighting and the name of its maker, Kt?

[Kt88]

LED headlights generally tend to be "binary" (for lack of a better term) and aren't impacted by voltage drop like filament bulbs are.

Sure, what I meant to express was that if my H4 reflector and glass had been healthy I’d likely have simply changed the headlight wiring rather than switch to a new kind of system altogether. As it was, replacing those components also was looking awfully pricey.

What is the model number of the led lighting and the name of its maker, Kt?

https://dv8offroad.com/collections/led-lights/products/dv8-led-fog-lights

Though I didn’t buy from this vendor, these are the same lights and housings. I snipped the ears of the buckets they’re in to allow for their proximity to each other and then attached those buckets to the plastic rectangular headlight adjuster frame.

[Laitch]

https://dv8offroad.com/collections/led-lights/products/dv8-led-fog-lights
Though I didn’t buy from this vendor, these are the same lights and housings. I snipped the ears of the buckets they’re in to allow for their proximity to each other and then attached those buckets to the plastic rectangular headlight adjuster frame.

The site is devoid of technical details. Do they have a high/low function? Being fog lights, if they are fog lights and not just Jeep ornaments, the beams would tend to be wider, used in a downward direction, and not designed for distance.  Aiming away from oncoming drivers will be critical. Let us know how they work out for you.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

From my experience with fog lights I am going to guess that the original headlight was in really bad shape for you to see such a big improvement.  The silver on the reflector is extremely soft and if a previous owner tried to "polish" it they probably scratched it enough to diffuse as much as half of the light that is supposed to go downrange.

I have nearly 100k on my assorted bricks, with a fair amount of rural riding at night.  I have found that using the Eastern Beaver relay harness for the headlight and adding a couple eBay LED driving lights gives me all the illumination I need to see critters planning ambushes in the dark.


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An added bonus is that the LED lights are visible for at least 2 miles in bright daylight, making them excellent for conspicuity.  It is very hard to not see me coming, even out of the corner of your eye.

[Kt88]

From my experience with fog lights I am going to guess that the original headlight was in really bad shape for you to see such a big improvement.  The silver on the reflector is extremely soft and if a previous owner tried to "polish" it they probably scratched it enough to diffuse as much as half of the light that is supposed to go downrange.

I have nearly 100k on my assorted bricks, with a fair amount of rural riding at night.  I have found that using the Eastern Beaver relay harness for the headlight and adding a couple eBay LED driving lights gives me all the illumination I need to see critters planning ambushes in the dark.

You’re exactly correct. The glass was no longer transparent, the silver ring was utterly nonreflective, and the adjustment mechanism was broken as well. All the little bits added up to make a very unsatisfactory light.

The site is devoid of technical details. Do they have a high/low function? Being fog lights, if they are fog lights and not just Jeep ornaments, the beams would tend to be wider, used in a downward direction, and not designed for distance.  Aiming away from oncoming drivers will be critical. Let us know how they work out for you.

As of now I assume the worst. The lights were sitting around and available, so I wanted to try a low impact proof of concept. I’ve not done any highway riding since installation, so I can only speak to around town riding. Since I had to attach them, I aimed them where I wanted. If I stick with this kind of setup, I’ll make myself a more robust bracket with more thorough adjustments than simply up/down. As of now I hit shorter cars around their hood or headlights, but I can’t quantify the distance the light is thrown either. It may very well be that they do not throw far enough for reliable, practical use. And of course you’re right that they are currently low beam only- I’ve not yet found a sealed hi/low 3” or 3.5” led light. When I do, I’ll use a pair of those instead.

Everything is reversible still, so if I do stumble upon a sufficiently thrifty stock h4 unit that’s actually healthy in the inside, I wouldn’t feel terrible about swapping back to compare.

[Kt88]

Hey, everyone!

Long time, no post. I got a set of fairly intense contracts over the last few months and haven’t had much “me” time for improving the K- rather, it’s been pressed into commuter service, which (even in its very much imperfect state) it’s simply excelled at. Though my ever present wandering eye has spied a deeply underpriced 1150 GS nearby, I’ve decided I’m going to at the minimum finish the job I started and get this 75s back to fully factory functional state before I make any hasty decisions regarding it and my perpetuity.

At this time, and honestly to my chagrin, several demons remain that have been very present since my ownership commenced.

Most importantly: I must rebuild or replace the front forks. South Florida has not been kind to the chrome or the exposed dust seals, the fork seals themselves are blown, their oil volume probably almost nonexistent and the function more akin to a non dampened pogo stick than they left the factory.

I have come to the conclusion that they are most likely the Showas, with a build date of 04/92 and the non-bulbous dust seals showing. Do we as a board have a preferred vendor for seals and rebuild kits? As much as the rust on the tubes isn’t aesthetically pleasing, it’s hardly in the functional area of the forks- mostly  between the triples and the lower clamps, less on the wiping areas- and I’m not so vain as to replace solely for that… yet.   I do want to stick to stock, and I’ve not yet had an earth shattering experience swapping springs for progressive, but I am happy to measure for fatigue in the stockers. I have to imagine that simply having the correct displacement of oil and seal function will be the biggest night and day I could imagine.

Second, I bought a long-deduct Works rear shock to replace the frozen unit that came on the bike. It’s an improvement in that it articulates, but the dampening is also clearly shot, and it being rebuildable makes me inclined to seek that rather than a 600-800$ replacement strategy.

Lastly, and maybe with the most shame- I’ve not yet diagnosed the constant brake failure warning light or the constant coolant temp light. All the attached systems function as expected,  coolant temp looking ok via laser thermometer and brake lights and ABS functioning well upon observation. The odometer and trip meter are DOA at this time, so I may have a chance to look at the contacts leading to the gauges, anyway.


Other than those things it’s all cosmetics- fairing support, gauge face plexi (or plastic, actually, I don’t know the composition), and perhaps eventually some retouching of the seat.

Bluntly? I’m still in love with it, and its reliability, and as long as I’m wearing a helmet and don’t hear the countershaft gear TOO loudly the bike is silent and wonderful. I don’t think I’ll swap it for another R bike in the foreseeable future.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I get my seals at the local industrial bearing supply house.  I also put Rancho #1952 shock boots on my forks to keep the dirt out.  ATF(doesn't matter which kind) in the forks for damping fluid.

As far as the rust, Evapo-Rust is a very good rust remover.  It's about 18 bucks a quart at Harbor Freight.  It's good because you can put it back in the bottle and reuse it, it goes a long way.  After you get the rust cleaned up, rub the bare metal down with aluminum foil and put a light coat of oil or wax on them to protect the bare metal.

I have rebuilt my Worx shocks.  It's pretty straightforward/they are fairly simple devices if you take your time..  You will need a spring compressor and someone who can charge the reservoir with 250psi of nitrogen.  As I recall, there is a shaft seal and cap o-ring you might need to replace.  There is a bladder in the reservoir that I think you can still get if it is bad.  I have the link for it somewhere.  Again, I use ATF for shock fluid.  I also have the rebuild instructions somewhere, too.

[Kt88]

Thanks for the tips! I’m also in the ATF fork cult- I’ve been using it since my single track dirtbike days, and have yet to have a reason to stop the practice. I got some anti-corrosion spray (ACF something or other) to use post cleaning, and I doubt I’m going to get an entire new front end unless my innards are wrecked from my recent malfeasance.

I found a worx rebuild link somewhere here on Motobrick, I think, and it did convince me of the mechanical feasibility. Working in a no-mechanical-project-allowed building dampens that somewhat- but I can always do most of it in my actual apartment and then just take it out to put it back on the bike.

[Martin]

I've had my 75s for around 25 years, the fork seals blew just after I got it. Since replacing my fork seals I have packed silicone grease between the dust seal and the fork seal. The grease traps the dust and dirt and keeps the fork tubes lubed, initially after packing there is grease evident on the tubes leading to comments that I've blown a seal, however it does settle down. I replace the grease a couple of times a year and more often if I ride on dusty roads. You'd be surprised at the amount of crap the grease traps. There are various products and methods for fixing pitted forks.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

A bench vise is very handy for working on the shock, especially for removing the spring. 

It might be worth spending a few bucks to take it to a shop that services off road bikes and four wheelers to have the pressure released and the spring removed.  Then have them re-install the spring and charge the shock when you are done with the rebuild.  I would guess the cost to do that work would be about what a set of spring compressors will cost you.  I think I paid $20 to have mine charged.  It's a 5 minute job.

The trickiest part of the rebuild is the valving.  As I recall there is a bunch of flappers and spacers that need to be in a specific order.  Just be careful to keep them organized as you take them apart and you'll be okay.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Works/Worx parts and info:

http://evolutionsuspensionproducts.com/Works.html

[stokester]

Not to hijack this post but I had the Works shock with remote reservoir blow out this past year on my R100RT and replaced it with a YSS.  My searches and conversation with Ted Porter let me to the YSS model which is what I have on both my K75s.

It's good to see someone is at least selling parts for a rebuild and I may give it a try.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Not to hijack this post but I had the Works shock with remote reservoir blow out this past year on my R100RT and replaced it with a YSS.  My searches and conversation with Ted Porter let me to the YSS model which is what I have on both my K75s.

It's good to see someone is at least selling parts for a rebuild and I may give it a try.

I had the seal blow out on my Works shock as well.  That is how I got the rebuild experience.  I was told by the counterman at the seal place that I needed a high pressure seal like is used in hydraulic cylinders.  Apparently the previous owner may not have known that.  I just used the seal that came with the rebuild kit and it worked.