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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Starting the research on R80 and K75
« Last post by blackie1 on Today at 02:57:49 AM »
brake pads are cheap and easy to replace
I just wanted to update this thread, it ended up being the HES. I've had no issues since replacing it.
The MBdotCOM Community Center / Re: tire inflator suggestion - SUAOKI DC 12V
« Last post by Martin on July 17, 2018, 11:26:12 PM »
I thought about a 12v compressor for a while. Some of the supposedly better brands can go from $50.00 Au and up. In the end I settled on just keeping the CO2 bottles and got a small bicycle hand pump as back up.  I'm probably going to put a mozz on myself but motorcycle tyres don't seem to be as prone to punctures as when I first started riding. Two slow leaks and a partial blown out valve stem in twenty years.
Regards Martin.
The MBdotCOM Community Center / tire inflator suggestion - SUAOKI DC 12V
« Last post by DavidATL on July 17, 2018, 10:05:01 PM »

After reasonable but hardly exhaustive internet search, I decided to buy one of these for piece of mind. Yes, I have the CO2 canisters with the bike but it's nice to have access to a small pump. This thing is pretty small at 4.25 x 3.74 x 1.85 inches and only $20.
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Starting the research on R80 and K75
« Last post by Adam M on July 17, 2018, 09:11:11 PM »
Thanks rbm.
I'm used to around 5 mm in old Japanese bikes.
Project Custom Motobricks / Re: K100 Scrambler Canada
« Last post by Grant on July 17, 2018, 09:05:09 PM »
I tweaked the adjustments over the last few days. as suggested a minor adjustment can make a large improvement. I found that i liked the clutch and brakes a little lower, this also brings the turn signals up a bit nearer my thumbs. I moved the handle bars a little closer which also improved things. Thanks for all of the advice, my ride is much improved.
Project Custom Motobricks / Re: Nixie Tube Shift Counter
« Last post by rbm on July 17, 2018, 09:03:51 PM »
I can't specifically answer your question as I've not designed with nixies.  These are EEVBlog videos on nixie tube counter design.

You'll have some isolation with the OC drivers in the BEP 3.0, but you'd be smart to provide further isolation on the inputs to your circuit - opto isolators for example.  You should also design for reverse polarity prevention on the 12V input as well as surge protection (fuse & TVS).  I don't think the CC output on the BEP can supply the current demand of a nixie though.  Best to find another source of switched power.
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Starting the research on R80 and K75
« Last post by rbm on July 17, 2018, 08:55:06 PM »
If the ABS is completely removed, that should include the ABS brain located in the tail compartment.  The ABS light should be extinguished if so.

The minimum brake disk thickness is 3.6mm.  I believe a new disk is 4.5mm (taking a guess here).

Update:  Looked it up. A new disk is  4.0mm
Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Starting the research on R80 and K75
« Last post by Adam M on July 17, 2018, 08:26:31 PM »
Two more questions.
The bike I'm going to see tomorrow ( 92 K 75S ) doesn't have an ABS. Pumps are removed by the previous owner.
What can I expect from ABS lamp ?
What is minimal thickness of rotors ?
This bike has 3 of them and front ones look pretty thin to me.
Project Custom Motobricks / Nixie Tube Shift Counter
« Last post by Grant on July 17, 2018, 08:04:59 PM »
I thought I would start a new thread for this. I want to build a shift counter using a nixie tube on my custom dashboard. For those of you not familiar with nixie tubes, they are old technology whereby each numeral is lit up inside a vacuum tube individually.  They give a cool retro look and glow a wonderful amber color when lit.

I am seeking advice from the numerous electronics experts on the forum. My intention is to use a BEP 3.0 for the output for the shift counter. The BEP has separate outputs for each gear that go to ground and a dedicated power supply (CC).

First off my research has led me thus far; I know I need an up converter to take the 12v DC power supply, (CC on the BEP) to 170v and a 20 to 22k resistor between the up converter and the nixie tube to power it. After this I have concerns, when the circuit is connected to the nixie tube and grounded by the BEP to complete the circuit will the 170v current damage the BEP? Do I need to convert the current coming from the nixie tube down to 12v again with some kind of resistor?

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