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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Rough running now no running.
« Last post by Martin on Today at 12:38:26 AM »
Thanks Inge I must of got the correct one I ended up with a 40 amp one and it fired right up. I'm going to charge it overnight before I take it for a test run.
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Rough running now no running.
« Last post by Inge K. on December 17, 2017, 10:43:47 PM »
I am now waiting for the Honourable Minister for finance and recreation to get home so I can go down to Super Cheap autos and get a new one.

Beware of the pin designation, 30 and 86 is swapped compared what's mostly used in the automotive world.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Rough running now no running.
« Last post by Martin on December 17, 2017, 10:24:51 PM »
Inge thanks for the input I'm red green colour blind which does not help. When I tested the relay it was dead, I substituted a scungy old one the I had in my bits box and the pump is now pumping. This however was a bit of a weird one, normally relays either work or don't work.  The intermittent failure threw me a bit especially as it occurred straight after the fuel cooler installation on the first test ride, along with the failure to charge. I am now waiting for the Honourable Minister for finance and recreation to get home so I can go down to Super Cheap autos and get a new one. At least it was an easy to work it out. :dunno
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Rough running now no running.
« Last post by Inge K. on December 17, 2017, 09:32:05 PM »
I then checked power at the fuel pump supply plug under the tank no power on the brown wire.

Power to the fuel pump is the green wire, brown is ground.

Have you been disturbing the connector/wires to the temp sensor while working With the fuel cooler?
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1991 K 1 front fender reinstall
« Last post by Bmwdon on December 17, 2017, 09:29:26 PM »
Hey thanks for the reply. I️ was able to get it finally. Just took 4 hands
Need to “compress” the 2 sides more than I️ could do alone. 
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The Motobrick Workshop / Rough running now no running.
« Last post by Martin on December 17, 2017, 08:57:57 PM »
After fitting my fuel cooler I developed a couple of problems on my first test run. Intermittent rough running cutting out at lights and only just able to start slow crank speed. Fitted a new set of brushes and the charging improved I still might need a new battery as it is 5-6 years old. I took it for a run this morning intending to get to the bottom of the rough running. It fired up so I took it for a run but it occasionally misfired, but no sign of fuel starvation as I was able to get it easily up to 140Kph and still accelerating. I got it back in the garage and did a header temp reading all even.
I pulled the spark plugs which were sooty and dry. While I had them out I cleaned them and checked the spark which was fine.

I then removed the fuel cooler intending to eliminate it as a problem. Once removed I tried to fire it up it caught a couple of times and then would just crank over with no firing. I checked the power to the pump at the fuse block power both sides of the fuse when the green starter button is pressed. I then checked power at the fuel pump supply plug under the tank no power on the brown wire. I am about to change the relay, if I can find one in my box of bits. and I will proceed from there.
Regards Martin.
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Repair Guidance / Re: gurgling sound when cooling down, K75RT
« Last post by stokester on December 17, 2017, 05:49:14 PM »
and for future reference: in the interim, I flipped the inner gasket and reinstalled the cap and everything worked fine for 300 miles. The gasket's shape has a retention feature which, when installed correctly, revents it from falling off the cap as you are handling it. I wouldn't recommend this as a long term fix but it worked fine for the week + that I waited for the new part to arrive.


Gotta get every good weather day in!!!!!
I'll be checking mine this spring when I do a coolant change. :2thumbup:
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / FS: 1996 K1100RS $500
« Last post by solares on December 17, 2017, 04:50:49 PM »
1996 K1100RS.  59k miles.  $500.  Located in Oakland, CA. 
It was run into a ditch five years ago.  I bought it with the intent to rebuild.  Frame, forks, and wheels are straight.  I replaced the cylinder head cover, timing case cover, timing chain, and chain tensioner.  After getting it all back together, it would not start, no spark.  I moved my shop, bought another k-bike, and lost interest.  I had the fairing repaired and repainted, although some of the paint is already chipped.  Cases included though one of the latches is broken and another is missing the lock cylinder.  I have the Virginia title and paperwork from the California DMV.  It needs to be brought back to DMV for a VIN check. 
pics at https://photos.app.goo.gl/QX8sOYYRiGqhPehO2
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Repair Guidance / Re: gurgling sound when cooling down, K75RT
« Last post by DavidATL on December 17, 2017, 03:39:55 PM »
and for future reference: in the interim, I flipped the inner gasket and reinstalled the cap and everything worked fine for 300 miles. The gasket's shape has a retention feature which, when installed correctly, revents it from falling off the cap as you are handling it. I wouldn't recommend this as a long term fix but it worked fine for the week + that I waited for the new part to arrive.


Gotta get every good weather day in!!!!!
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Repair Guidance / Re: gurgling sound when cooling down, K75RT
« Last post by DavidATL on December 17, 2017, 01:00:20 PM »
In addition to the cleaning up the gunk in the filler neck, I replaced the radiator cap to renew the gasket materials. One of them had taken a shape set (see above). I believe that my gurgling noise was caused by either that or a misplaced chunk of gunk from the filler neck. Everything seems to be running well now. Tests fine sitting still warmed to the point of the cooling fan starting to cycle. Rode 100 miles - no issues.


The prior cap was of the new design but there has since been an even newer design. The attached images shows them side by side. The newest one is dry, the older but 'new design' is wet. The newest design has a collar around the inner gasket material which I supposed helps the seal not squish out. This makes for a more robust seal.
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