Finally DID find that Diagnostic plug!! I WIN Yipee !!

[KCinSB]

Having searched under the tank, into both sides, and not finding that 3 yellow wire diagnostic plug to reset the ABS, can it be done some other way?? Maybe find a contact in the fuse box? This situation is a real PITA !
  The bike sat for years. I did some Mech work on it while sitting, like took the whole back of the bike off and replaced the clutch and real main seal. Replaced all the cracked fuel lines, on and on....  Anyhow, finally put it back together, with the 5 yr old Scorpion AGM battery, started and rode it to the local Mac’s just to prove it ran with a parking lot photo.  The point? I recall thinking how cool it was a BMW could run again after all that time and disturbance,.... and have NOTHING wrong!!  (No ABS issues) In fact, I recall thinking “ Oh Yeah, Light goes out with some forward motion”.  It did.
  Then, paint fairings, fool around here with fairing questions. Try to start the bike just ‘cause, and a few cranks,.... dead. Well, I wasn’t surprised of course, but did try the battery charger while working paint. Turned the key a few times, listened to the whine stop, tried the head lite, but voltage dropped quickly. ( I have a neat tiny Battery Tender Co volt meter plugged into the Tender connection) Decided to get a new battery, bought another Scorpion, I like’em. Took the Battery Neg off the frame 1st. Removed the computers, RR the battery, cleaned and DC4 the connectors. Reinstalled the computer plugs. Go for a ride, ABS fail flashing. Hit the ABS OFF switch, flash stops. Shut down, restart same fault.
   Can’t think of anything that was moved aside from the ABS computer. So the low battery may have caused and logged the fault. I need to do that reset!  Where the heck is that connector! Beginning to think I don’t have no steenkin connector.  Where can I find the wire, and forget the actual connector.

ABS working....
  And later, ABS not working!
 

[volador]

Chris Harris is the man...

[Laitch]

Having searched under the tank, into both sides, and not finding that 3 yellow wire diagnostic plug to reset the ABS . . .

Don't look for three yellow wires. Look for the capped plug or just the plug. When you find it clean its sockets.

[Past-my-Prime]

And the plug itself is BLUE

[KCinSB]

I suppose it should just sleep right out at you!If I ever find it I will take a picture and post it here!

[Martin]

On a mates 91 K75s the plug was cable tied to the upper frame rail under the right hand side cover. Merry Christmas for what it's worth.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

Here's a photo of an ABS1 plug on a K75, like Martin describes. This one has a clean, blue cap. Take off the battery covers then take a closer look.
 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[Laitch]

And the plug itself is BLUE

The plug's cap is blue, if it isn't filthy.

[KCinSB]

OK !!! The good news:  I found the Bugger!   The Bad news: the reset didn't work......
So, for your enjoyment.
  After cutting all zip ties and separating wire bundles on the top, right side, and under the Tank, I finally decided to trust my work. It's not HERE!
  So it must be somewhere completely opposite of where I've been focused. Let's see: Top/Right.........  Vs Bottom/Left.  That *&$Y^$ plug was under the alternator, accessible from the lower left side, once actually seeing it. The BLUE cap was a big help.

IMG_6742.JPG (58.09 kB . 576x576 - viewed 564 times)
IMG_6743.JPG (40.8 kB . 576x576 - viewed 570 times)

Great, so I did the reset, took a short ride, ABS still flashing. Did that 6 times,..... it's not looking like a reset will do the trick.
Tried to count the pulses with an LED lamp, and discovered the LED lamp is no good. Will try again with an analog meter, as I assume no electronics stores will be open Christmas to buy another LED. Maybe I'll get a clue as to what is wrong with the meter. Sure is strange that it worked, and then a low battery could kill the system. I hope the brains aren't fried!

[Past-my-Prime]

My ABS brain got fried finally after a few resets when the battery had died, over the years (decades). I bought another one on ebay in a fit of optimism for about a hundred bucks from some guy in France with no guarantee it would work. But it did!

So now I have an extra ABS brain that I'm considering sending to that dude in Japan that fixes them, because like all things K, they're becoming more and more rare.

It seems crazy, but ABS on my bike has saved my ass a couple times, when I'd probably have laid the bike on its side or worse. I'm a fan.

[Laitch]

. . . so I did the reset, took a short ride, ABS still flashing. Did that 6 times,..... it's not looking like a reset will do the trick.

Sure, the ABS system can be faulty but on the off-chance that you might have missed something, explain exactly what you did.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Here's the link to Toshi's site: http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/

I had problems with resetting a bad brain code on my '91 k100 a couple years ago.  I've since lost the emails from Toshi, but I think he recommended removing the big plug from the brain for a couple days, and then doing the reset after reconnecting it.  I think there are some capacitors in there that need to bleed down to zero, and it sometimes takes a while.  The ABS has been working ever since.

[KCinSB]

Internet was out here at the house this Christmas morning,...  I wonder if I brought electron virus home from the shop?   Reboot internet worked here, hope it might work on the ABS sometime also.
   Yes, I too believe in the ABS, and credit it at least once for saving the day! Traffic light in Santa Monica changed to green, we all start moving, I glance Left, look forward,... YIKES! Car in front had stopped! I was actually visualizing the flight over the top, when the bike did the KaChunk / KaChunk .... and stopped!!  I couldn’t believe it. It was amazing and much appreciated. I want my ABS !!!
  I will try the plug disconnect for a day, can’t hurt. Then do the reset again.
   To recap, Starting at the last time it was working:
> In the shop doing fairing paint work. (This after deciding it was worth the effort, after a short ride proved bike is running OK, and did not have ABS issue)
>Once in awhile, I’d turn the Key, check the lights, listen to the Whine stop, and look at the VoltMeter. Fully aware that the old battery was likely on it’s last legs, and amazed it started the bike before. Bike is connected to a low 2 amp battery tender all this time.
> At some point, I actually hit the starter, and the lights died, and the short crank quit, so battery was dead. Why now after cranking before I thought? Voltmeter confirmed low battery was down to 8 volts. DOA
> Commit to a new $110 Scorpion AGM, get it online (Battery Stuff), and do the remove / replace.
> The RR requires the 2 “computers” be removed. As trained, disconnect the Neg Batt wire to kill any stray power to the bike first. Pull off the multi-pin connectors, remove boxes, clean cables, RR battery, reassemble.
> At that point, I know I tried the new battery while in the shop by Lights / Horn / and Crank. All seemed OK, so continued Paint.
> When fairings finally back on the bike, DMV Non-ops renewed, Hagerty Ins back up, go out side and take a ride.   
> ABS flashing, Brakes checked, now ABS and red Caution both flashing. That is still the condition at present.

[Laitch]

Internet was out here at the house this Christmas morning,...

Merry Christmas!

Did you follow Harris's instruction in the video volador posted? I can't determine that from what you've written until I have my first cup of coffee, which is a half hour in the future.

[KCinSB]

yes, I did. just watched it again, and my bike responded as shown in the video. Of course his bike on a stand did not show the next ride results. If that Video was a made just for a YouTube example, it may not have had a problem in the first place I guess?
  Just now noticed a difference in the instructions here, compared to the Ref posted on the previous thread by Frankenduck. In that instaruction, the following was given:
“Once your wire is grounded, hold down the ABS switch and turn the key all of the way clockwise to turn the bike on while keeping the ABS switch depressed.  (You don't need to start the bike, just turn it on.) Count to thirty slowly.  Then turn off the bike.  Hopefully the ABS fault is now cleared.”
  In the Video, the process is Key On, then hold down the switch.  Not sure if this is important, but will have to try both procedures.

[Laitch]

Not sure if this is important, but will have to try both procedures.

[KCinSB]

GOT IT !! IT”S WORKING!!
Not 100% which thing fixed it, but it did reset. I had tried the reset process Hold switch Key on wait 30 sec. 6 times with no reset the other day. Things I did today in order:
Since no LED light to try, used a cheapo Analog meter to count the pulses from the diagnostic center socket. Counted 6 “dips” which lines up with the code for ABS Relay. So I was planning on a visit to Sport Cycle Pacific, and ask Dave if he had any ABS replays laying around he didn’t need.
Still thinking possibilities, I recalled the Video gave the switch/key test in the key/switch order. Not sure why it would make a difference, but did the center socket to frame, Key on, Hold ABS switch for 30 seconds.
Open shop door, key on, pushed the bike out, and FLASHING STOPPED! Sure glad that’s over with, and didn’t start throwing parts at the bike.
 So the thing is, I’m not 100% sure which thing finally worked, but I’d try all 3 if I had to again. 

[Laitch]

GOT IT !! IT”S WORKING!!
 I recalled the Video gave the switch/key test in the key/switch order. Not sure why it would make a difference, but did the center socket to frame, Key on, Hold ABS switch for 30 seconds.
Open shop door, key on, pushed the bike out, and FLASHING STOPPED! . . .

It might have made a difference because you followed the instructions of somebody who had vastly more experience than you.

Congratulations! Start the party after a couple thousand miles.