new K1100 '95 in the workshop

[frankenduck]

The plugs as you see them were almost finger tight with the caps nearly impossible to remove so vulcanised to the stems.

One question though - the manual says it differently but I found in the forum the procedure for syncing the throttle bodies and it says I should start with the FIRST air screw out by 1.5 turns and then adjust all of the other screws to #1. In some other place I saw an instruction to start with the screw #3 as this is where the bowden comes to. I managed to get a proper synch with the first method but which one is correct/better? Also the manual just says: get it all in line and that is it. I already know that without a proper reference point this will bring the idle to 1200rpm roughly.
Is the 1.5 turns out on the 1st screw the agreed upon method?

K bike spark plug leads fit VERY tightly on the spark plugs compared to other vehicles. It is normal for them to be difficult to remove. Make sure that they are that tightly seated when you put them back on. What I do is grab the tang on each cap with one hand with a set of pliers and then hit it with the other hand. Once installed you should try wiggle each one. If the caps wiggle at all on the spark plugs then they are not properly seated.

It doesn't matter which cylinder is the reference cylinder for balancing. Most people start at #1 out of convention more than anything else. The objective is to get them all balanced with each other.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

My mistake on the fuel pressure regulator.  My 4v K100RS bikes had the 2v style regulator and I thought that the K1100 did as well.  2v and 4v K100 have same regulator part number and the K1100 part number is different. 

[frankenduck]

My mistake on the fuel pressure regulator.  My 4v K100RS bikes had the 2v style regulator and I thought that the K1100 did as well.  2v and 4v K100 have same regulator part number and the K1100 part number is different.

I thought it was 2V vs 4V but you're correct the K100RS4V & K1 use the same FPR as K75/K100.

[matjas]

no prob at all guys :D every day is a school day :D

I have learned that one very lately going through the sync procedures between the 2 and 4v versions.

does the number of turns of these brass screws affect the mixture in low/mid revs/loads the way the air screws affect carbs? I THINK my brick is running a tad rich as the exhaust gets a little bit sooty after a while.


I want to pull the water pump while I am at it - going under the timing cover that is. Am I still safe with the oil level or no luck and drain this time???
I want to have everything sealed with Rensosil as I trust this one a lot + see if the weep hole is through and not blocked by the copious amounts of sillycone the previous hammersmith was using.

ordered the timing cover seal /cant be substituted with a generic one I reckon - that is a directional seal for some reason - if someone knows why please shed some light/ and valve cover seal - i prefer to have a proper new seal made of proper rubber instead of bloody RTVing everything around.

[frankenduck]

The water pump is also the oil pump and it's down near the bottom of  the engine so you do need to drain the oil.

The valve cover gasket is not generic. Part 11121461396.

[Laitch]

I want to have everything sealed with Rensosil as I trust this one a lot + see if the weep hole is through and not blocked by the copious amounts of sillycone the previous hammersmith was using.

The big question is: Did the previous hammersmith have eyeglasses and actually wear them while working on the Brick?  The silicone likely came from BMW's manufacturing plant.  Watch this starting at 4:36 and ending around 5:40. 
 

[matjas]

Hahahaha :) got the one about the glasses RIGHT between my eyes :)

Yeah, Chris is spot on on the stringers. Had many of them in the cam chain cover. Good sign in the end it seems! ;)

[matjas]

Hi guys - weekend was a resting time for me  but with all the parts ordered at BMW I need to start cracking on the front fork and tyres so as to when the seals arrive I can start putting the old girl together for the coming weekend ride of Czech Republic and Germany.

With a long trip coming end of August -> Poland Wroclaw, Annecy France then Ancona Italy via Stella Alpina site and all of the mountains on my way as much as the time allows, then back to Poland for the annual Africa Twin rally the first week of September ... I wonder what else to look for or what to replace to ensure trouble free journey.

What comes to my mind is the fuel tank now - should I get a new fuel pump? Should I replace all the hoses inside - I have read horror stories of them bursting? Anything else in there?
Certainly need to take the cap off and see inside - but the main fuel line to the fuel rail is clearly marked 1995 - although it is not cracked it needs to go for sure.

Air filter needs to go as well I think and the bottom of the airbox is full of oil - but the bike was overfilled by 0.6l easy when on my back to Poland.

I will open and blow every electrical connector with contact spray and compressed air. The combined sockets under the tank are very well preserved but some TLC will do no harm I think.
The bike has an alarm fitted which seems to be dead - the brain lives in the back of the bike next to the rear lamp with the alarm switch located next to the input/output/charging socket on the left handside of the bike next to the coils. I think I want this thing out of the bike but its harness seems to be entertwined into the electrical system everywhere :( I dont trust these add ons.





As usual - hints and ideas are more then welcome.   

[Laitch]

DeoxIT D5 is the electrical contact cleaner in which I have the most confidence. I was influenced to use it from reading testimonials by Brick riders here and elsewhere. You should replace the fuel tank's internal lines and the fuel filter, too. Use only SAE J30R10 or its EU equivalent for the lines.

The alarm can be disabled according to this post and a couple of posts that follow it. Take a photo of the alarm and the BMW part number stamped on it if you can find one then post the photo here. Removing it is a labyrinthine project but has been done successfully.

[matjas]

Thank you Laitch!!!  :beer

Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line? Appr 6-7mm inside? I could just buy 1m of hose in advance and let the post do their thing in the meantime.

[Laitch]

Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line?

If you've lost your calipers, you need to find them.  You will need them eventually and you shouldn't be depending on random nationals with nothing better to do than hang out here.   
If you are referring to hoses outside the tank as "supply line", they differ from hoses inside the tank. Hoses inside the tank must be submersible in fuel without being damaged by it; hoses outside the tank must be ozone resistant. There's no need for one hose to have both characteristics; however, both types must be high pressure fuel injection hoses and should be attached with fuel injection-type hose clamps.

[frankenduck]

Thank you Laitch!!!  :beer

Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line? Appr 6-7mm inside? I could just buy 1m of hose in advance and let the post do their thing in the meantime.

Both internal and external fuel lines are 8mm ID.

[matjas]

Better to order before diggin into the tank. Thanks Frankenduck.
The submersible thing was obvious. Hope they will not implode due to the latest fashion.

[matjas]

while replacing the fork seals and oil I have dismantled the whole front of the bike and with the calipers just dangling down there I discovered /not much surprise/ the brake lines are nothing but to be replaced.

as ready made braided lines are worth arm and leg nowadays I am thinking about buying a length of teflon, braided lines and doing them myself with the screwed banjos, etc.
what is your experience with these? in my market they are viewed as greatly inferior and 'dangerous' but they are properly burst resistant up to 900bar.

this will be also a great occasion to open the calipers for a general cleaning job and drain all of the old DOT4. I THINK the right caliper was slightly sticky - by the amount of force I needed to exert to take the wheel out I can only tell the pistons will benefit from a good cleanup!

replacing also all the perished insulation on harnesses and rubber airbox suction lines - cracked.
no Kbike riding this weekend - will have to live with my trusty NTV650 Deauville but the work progresses towards a happy /I hope/ ending.

m

[frankenduck]

Braided SS brake lines: https://www.motobins.co.uk/

[Laitch]

. . .in my market they are viewed as greatly inferior and 'dangerous' but they are properly burst resistant up to 900bar.

You don't seem to highly regard the minds in your market, do you? I know; it is lonely at the top. At least I've read that it is.    Regardless, the price Bayermotoradd is asking for a complete set is probably as good or better than anywhere in the world and that could even include the price of OEM rubber lines which are what I use.

[matjas]

Cant really see the letters from the top :) almost.

The price at Bayer is good indeed but only slightly better than what I have here before a discount plus shipment from Germany.
Spoke to some guys who run those screw-on braided lines for years. This will be the route I will follow.

Received parts from BMW. Hope to close the engine today.

[Laitch]

Spoke to some guys who run those screw-on braided lines for years.

Keep in mind that braided lines generally don't have good performance if they become the screw-up type.

[frankenduck]

You don't seem to highly regard the minds in your market, do you? I know; it is lonely at the top. At least I've read that it is.    Regardless, the price Bayermotoradd is asking for a complete set is probably as good or better than anywhere in the world and that could even include the price of OEM rubber lines which are what I use.

Those German companies usually use DHL which tends to be somewhat expensive.

Motobins uses UK Royal Mail and their shipping costs (at least to the US) are reasonable. For heavier stuff they use FedEx which is pricier like DHL.

I've haven't looked for brake lines there but tills.de usually has good prices.

[Laitch]

Those German companies usually use DHL which tends to be somewhat expensive.

DHL out of Europe has been good to me. Contracts with sellers may vary, or maybe it's your location in K-landia that jacks up the price. Commerce is full of mysteries.

[matjas]

Since UK became more of an island again any kind of purchase from there hits you twice - initial purchase and then the customs plus VAT. We just got a little bit too comfortable with the EU thingy…
Gonna be a while before the supplier comes back from holidays anyway. Then I am starting my summer vacations this Sunday so there will be a break to my boring you with mundane stuff ;)

[frankenduck]

Yeah, that VAT makes a difference. Orders to the US pay no VAT and no customs duty under $200 per order.

But I've also bought stuff for over $200 and still didn't have to pay duty.

[matjas]

You know - my country is still developing ;) and they will take any and every penny they can.
I even paid a salty amount upon receiving my own cylinder I had sent to UK to be nicasil replated - so this was really just service and no goods per se 
Times like this I think I am supporting schools or orphanages - it bites less. Screw it.

[frankenduck]

Meh, every country and every government tries to rip their citizens off. They have to feed "the beast" that is government.

I've been to Poland. Had a great time and enjoyed the people I met there.

(Except for the cops who blackmailed my bother for $40 for supposedly smoking in the wrong place.)

[matjas]

You must have been very unlucky with the Polish cops mate :)

Engine closed. Not running yet but almost there.
Question: I need to unplug this FAG :) plug as the insulation has perished and the cables are bare.
Took out the top screw but nope - no go. I see there is still a torx bottom screw but in order to undo this one I might have to take the bloody unit out = major dismantling job I am afraid.
Is this just a holder or really need to take this one out?

Slowly the brick is coming together. If I am lucky I will ride it tomorrow.