Post by: DJEwen on February 25, 2018, 05:10:06 AM
I’ve been lurking on the Forum since October 2017 and felt it was time to share. In September 2017 I purchased myself a couple of K100s, one 1985 K100 with 46,000 Miles, it has no keys but runs and hasn’t been on the road since 2012/2013. It’s unfortunately had had a small fire in the loom which a previous owner had repaired to some extent. The second is a 1987 K100 RT which is broken down, most of the parts are there with the exception of the fairings and lunch box.. Here’s a few pictures of the machines in question:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131541-90789.jpeg) (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=908)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131536-9061377.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131248-902514.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131248-9022425.jpeg)
The Bricks making it home:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131558-9102023.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131552-9091209.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131602-911910.jpeg)
I’m planning on customising the running bike into a street Scrambler, the inspiration for this build is Sir Ulrich by NTC Motorcycles, some of you may be familiar:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131602-911824.jpeg)
I have a 3x3 meter section on the end of my garage that was used as a junk space previously, I spent time painting and building shelves in attempt of turning it into some form of workshop where the magic, or disaster will slowly happen. It’s small but it has great lighting, power and optional heat:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-140419041740-2103118.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-140419041743-21032429.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218133010-913897.jpeg)
As I wasn't present for the collection of the Bikes I didn't get to see the runner running so the first task for me was to install a battery and get her started. After confirming the fuel tank wasn't filled with black sludge I siphoned the old fuel and added a squirt of new. I fitted a new 12V 14AH GEL battery which had no issues turning the big brick over. I eventually got her started but she was unable to idle by herself. The bike engaged first and drove forward with no painful sounds from the splines. Excuse the vertical filming of this shot:
First Start (http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/videos/5327_17_02_18_2_34_34.MOV)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lu6NejvyMlI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lu6NejvyMlI) Post start up I noticed there was one oily drip from the Oil/Water Pump weep hole.
The runner came with a 22ltr top box and RHS Touring tragkorb which I began to remove the mountings of last night (can be found on Gumtree for sale if anyone is interested) I got a little carried away during the removal and got this far, I got the seat from Texaviua:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-170218131435-905366.jpeg)
From close inspection the brick is already already sporting some stainless front lines and all the hoses seem to be in un-cracked good condition albeit I intend to change the fuel lines regardless. I've spotted some rounded hex heads in the pinch bolts of the triple trees and the rear master cylinder is finished.
For the last 5 months I have immersed myself in this forum, a used Clymer manual and almost memorised Mr Chris harris's most helpful YouTube hits. I have purchased all fluids and assembly lubes including, Staburags, and made up my short fall in tooling. What would you guys absolutely say I need to change/replace during this build?
Thanks in advance
Post by: DJEwen on February 25, 2018, 05:24:21 AM
I built some more shelves in the garage and got some stuff a little more arranged. This is how the bike currently sits:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-250218043727-9392119.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-250218043727-939602.jpeg)
I have no more progress to show than this unfortunately.
All fluids except forks are now drained and the bike on the lift. I managed to get 3 of the 4 exhaust clamps up stream of the collector free but the hardest to reach one was solid and had to be cut out. I intend to get the silencer out next time home and remove the headers. The bolts on the manifold are terribly corroded, I had soaked them for a day or two in PlusGas and had an attempt at one after cleaning the surface as much as I could but it just rounded in the socket. Does anyone have any top tips for getting the exhaust headers off?
I've noticed there is quite a lot of oil from the the gearbox bell housing where the swing arm mounts, is that likely to be the output seal?
Thanks
Post by: Boxermann on February 25, 2018, 07:08:04 AM
Maybe use a nut splitter or try forcing a slightly smaller socket on the exhaust header nuts? 15/32” or 12mm.
Edit: I read again and see that I you are talking about the bolts on the exhaust and not the exhaust to cylinder nuts? Heat and forcing a smaller socket on works most of the time anyway.
Yeah, oil in the bell housing does sound like a bad rear main seal.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2018, 07:08:53 AM
I've noticed there is quite a lot of oil from the the gearbox bell housing where the swing arm mounts, is that likely to be the output seal?It's a waste of time to guess the cause of a condition, especially when you understand that it will be uncovered during disassembly Disassemble and inspect as you go. At the end of the process, you'll have a list of what you might need after research and consultation. Keep posting photos as you make progress.
Good luck with your project.
Post by: DJEwen on February 25, 2018, 08:42:28 AM
Welcome!
Maybe use a nut splitter or try forcing a slightly smaller socket on the exhaust header nuts? 15/32” or 12mm.
Edit: I read again and see that I you are talking about the bolts on the exhaust and not the exhaust to cylinder nuts? Heat and forcing a smaller socket on works most of the time anyway.
Hi Boxermann, no, you're correct, I am talking about the cylinder nuts. So you reckon a nut splitter should I not get a smaller socket on? I must add this to my top collection.
Post by: DJEwen on February 25, 2018, 08:52:27 AM
It's a waste of time to guess the cause of a condition, especially when you understand that it will be uncovered during disassembly Disassemble and inspect as you go. At the end of the process, you'll have a list of what you might need after research and consultation. Keep posting photos as you make progress.
Good luck with your project.
Hi Laitch, new picture, nice! I'll admit I have been poor with my photo tracking. You detail a good system.
The bike will be be mostly stripped back without splitting the block and then painted and powder coated. I appreciate the law of "Everything works until it breaks and then it's broken", however, should costs allow, I'd like to replace anything thats prone to failure and sensible to replace whilst everything is apart to avoid having to go back in any tim soon after the build. If anyone has recommendations for must do's, I'm listening, I could sure use some direction.
Thanks
Post by: Supershooter on February 25, 2018, 09:17:09 AM
Supershooter
Post by: Boxermann on February 25, 2018, 10:24:36 AM
Post by: Skunky on February 27, 2018, 09:40:24 PM
All fluids except forks are now drained and the bike on the lift. I managed to get 3 of the 4 exhaust clamps up stream of the collector free but the hardest to reach one was solid and had to be cut out. I intend to get the silencer out next time home and remove the headers. The bolts on the manifold are terribly corroded, I had soaked them for a day or two in PlusGas and had an attempt at one after cleaning the surface as much as I could but it just rounded in the socket. Does anyone have any top tips for getting the exhaust headers off?
I've noticed there is quite a lot of oil from the the gearbox bell housing where the swing arm mounts, is that likely to be the output seal?
Thanks
Hi DJ , Exhaust headers AAAAAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHH! :yow. Zinc Studs with Copper Nuts. One of the worst Jobs I've had to do. All bar one of the nuts on mine were rounded off and put in without anti seize. One of the penalty's of the quality of the exhaust is that you sometimes find they have never been off. I used nut splitters (useless at the back) grinders, drills, heat guns and allsorts and still ended up with two broken studs which had to be drilled out. I had to fill and re-tap the engine for the new studs. My advice is, leave them on ifyou can. Just get the triangle can off and buy an off the shelf collector.
If you do have to get them off get a mattress and put the bike on its side on its side you will have much more working room. If your studs are long enough you could try running two nuts up. Tighten one against the other and turn the whole stud out. Also I found the headers to be welded to the head by corrosion as no gaskets were used.
Good Luck.
Post by: DJEwen on February 28, 2018, 08:41:58 AM
Great Goal, can't wait to see it take shape.
Supershooter
Thanks Shooter! I had a thought once or twice when I first looked at the bike in the garage that I had taken on more than I could chew but once I got into it, I couldn't stop. Really enjoying it.
Servicing the water/oil pump, replacing rear main seal and of course lubing the splines is what I can think of off the top of my head.
Cheers Boxerman, do prompt me with anything else that comes to mind, please.
Hi DJ , Exhaust headers AAAAAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHH! :yow . Zinc Studs with Copper Nuts. One of the worst Jobs I've had to do. All bar one of the nuts on mine were rounded off and put in without anti seize. One of the penalty's of the quality of the exhaust is that you sometimes find they have never been off. I used nut splitters (useless at the back) grinders, drills, heat guns and allsorts and still ended up with two broken studs which had to be drilled out. I had to fill and re-tap the engine for the new studs. My advice is, leave them on ifyou can. Just get the triangle can off and buy an off the shelf collector.
If you do have to get them off get a mattress and put the bike on its side on its side you will have much more working room. If your studs are long enough you could try running two nuts up. Tighten one against the other and turn the whole stud out. Also I found the headers to be welded to the head by corrosion as no gaskets were used.
Good Luck.
[Plugs Ears] Oh the joys, sounds like I've got a fair task on my hands, Skunky! On this advice I think I'll leave the headers until the bike is fully stripped and I can rotate the engine upside down. I'll give everything a good soaking in Plus Gas for a day or two before I walk into battle, I'm armed with a blowtorch, heat gun, freeze spray and Chris harris vocabulary. Good suggestion on just leaving the studs in, I'll likely do that should I not damage any too badly with the splitters or such like, good idea on the double nuts!
Did you have any issues removing the triangle can? I have all 4 clamps free and gave it some gentle persuasion with a block of wood and hammer but it didn't budge. I hadn't planed on selling it so don't mind cutting right through it with the grinder.
Any other complete nightmares that you expect me to encounter? (with the exception of wiring) I noticed a couple of those shallow headed hex pinch bolts on the triple trees are already completely rounded from one of the POs.
Post by: Skunky on February 28, 2018, 07:06:31 PM
Did you have any issues removing the triangle can? I have all 4 clamps free and gave it some gentle persuasion with a block of wood and hammer but it didn't budge. I hadn't planed on selling it so don't mind cutting right through it with the grinder.
Any other complete nightmares that you expect me to encounter? (with the exception of wiring) I noticed a couple of those shallow headed hex pinch bolts on the triple trees are already completely rounded from one of the POs.
To Be honest there were various bolts which had to have the heads grinded off where over zealous mechanics had tightened with air gun's, but as long as you have a bolt removing set and an extractor set you can normally get them out. I found it easier removing bolt studs once the heads were off which takes the force off the thread. When your dealing with 30 year old bikes that have eons of corrosion you're always going to have issues. I have invested in a pot of copper anti seize and torque wrenches to make sure I don't over tighten.
I had to drill Two of the Triple tree bolts. I guess PO's are worried about decreasing ground clearance. :hehehe
Like you mine is still on blocks and probably will be until May. I have a life to lead as well as a bike build.
Post by: DJEwen on March 01, 2018, 08:10:08 AM
I’ve just ordered a set of Irwin bolt nut grip removers and a cheap set of extractor screws. My tooling expenses are escalating quite rapidly :mbird [size=78%], I’m still within budget though![/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=78%]So no advice on the exhaust can itself? I’ll maybe just pay it a visit with the grinder.[/size]
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2018, 08:17:25 AM
[size=78%], I’m still within budget though![/size]I'm wondering if you go to the Look and Layout section of your Profile on this site, then choose the WYSIWYG option, those random characters in this post won't appear in your next. Maybe I'm the only person seeing them.
[size=78%]So no advice on the exhaust can itself? I’ll maybe just pay it a visit with the grinder.[/size]
Post by: DJEwen on March 01, 2018, 08:36:47 AM
I'm wondering if you go to the Look and Layout section of your Profile on this site, then choose the WYSIWYG option, those random characters in this post won't appear in your next. Maybe I'm the only person seeing them.Nope, I see them too. That’s what I get for not previewing. Just checked, WYSIWYG was already checked, I’ve unchecked and saved :dunno
Post by: Skunky on March 02, 2018, 02:41:12 AM
Cheers, Skunky.
I’ve just ordered a set of Irwin bolt nut grip removers and a cheap set of extractor screws. My tooling expenses are escalating quite rapidly :mbird [size=78%], I’m still within budget though![/size]
[size=78%]So no advice on the exhaust can itself? I’ll maybe just pay it a visit with the grinder.[/size]
I didn't have a triangle exhaust on mine it came with a stainless steel motad unit which, ( don't tell the purists) I chopped up and shortened. You will find yourself buying all sorts of tools and stuff you don't need. There seems to be two types of builders. Those who throw loads of no eyes at their project. And those who want to do everything themselves on a budget. What you have to remember is that you can spend a lot of mm money but you will never get it back. There's a nut and bolt rebuild on EBay that they want 14k for. Yes it's like a new bike, but it's still a 30 year old bike that's been chopped. They will not sell for 6k let alone 14.
Post by: DJEwen on March 02, 2018, 05:00:21 AM
I didn't have a triangle exhaust on mine it came with a stainless steel motad unit which, ( don't tell the purists) I chopped up and shortened. You will find yourself buying all sorts of tools and stuff you don't need. There seems to be two types of builders. Those who throw loads of no eyes at their project. And those who want to do everything themselves on a budget. What you have to remember is that you can spend a lot of mm money but you will never get it back. There's a nut and bolt rebuild on EBay that they want 14k for. Yes it's like a new bike, but it's still a 30 year old bike that's been chopped. They will not sell for 6k let alone 14.
Oh well, I think it’ll be the angle grinder.
Aye, you probably mean this one, been for sale for an age: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172456651375
Sir Ulrich build sold for €18k
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2018, 11:42:22 AM
I didn't have a triangle exhaust on mineK100 stock mufflers are rectangles—a Teutonic symbol indicating four cylinders. The K75 has a stock triangle muffler. Are mufflers not being discussed here at all? Clarity is eluding me again.
Post by: Martin on March 02, 2018, 01:32:57 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on March 02, 2018, 08:57:48 PM
K100 stock mufflers are rectangles—a Teutonic symbol indicating four cylinders. The K75 has a stock triangle muffler. Are mufflers not being discussed here at all? Clarity is eluding me again.
Sorry, Laitch. Yes, the rectangle muffler. It was the last thing I attempted removing before I went on hitch, I’ve removed all 4 clamps at the collector, soaked in releasing fluid and gave it some heavy persuasion but it wouldn’t budge. I’m considering cutting it out with the angle grinder.
Pictures speak a thousand words. Please include some we do not want a cloudy, confused Laitch. :nono
Regards Martin.
:yes
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5327-250218043727-939602.jpeg)
Rectangle
Post by: Martin on March 02, 2018, 11:07:14 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2018, 11:32:01 PM
Have you tried heating it and spraying with a good penetrating fluid. Wait for it to cool a bit before spraying as you do not want the Brick to erupt in a ball of flame and don't breathe in the resulting smoke.If that doesn't work the first time, do it again, wait a couple of minutes, freeze spray the header pipes a couple of inches away from the muffler coupling then pound and twist the muffler. There's always the grinder though. :yes
Post by: DJEwen on March 03, 2018, 12:04:44 AM
Have you tried heating it and spraying with a good penetrating fluid. Wait for it to cool a bit before spraying as you do not want the Brick to erupt in a ball of flame and don't breathe in the resulting smoke. Not all penetrating fluids are created equal WD 40 and some others comes to mind, they are water displacement fluids. The best fluid for penetrating is a mixture of 50% ATF fluid 50% acetone.
Regards Martin.
I hadn’t tried heat yet, only a soak or two in penentrating fluid and a bit of brutality with a big hammer. I have WD40 but I was using PlusGas as I read somewhere it’s the best off-the-shelf penentrating product... to be honest it seems identical to WD40 :dunno2: I’ll look to put a mixture together, I have a few spare spray bottles anyway. Well noted on not breathing in the smoke. Thanks, Martin.
If that doesn't work the first time, do it again, wait a couple of minutes, freeze spray the header pipes a couple of inches away from the muffler coupling then pound and twist the muffler. There's always the grinder though. :yes
Alright, go twice. I have some freeze spray so I’ll spray the header pipes, heat the muffler and give it yah hoo with the hammer while twisting as directed! Hopefully the grinder will remain parked. Cheers Laitch.
Post by: DJEwen on April 23, 2018, 08:12:57 AM
One getting the tank off it was apparent the “small fire” had been slightly worse that the PO had indicated. The botched repair job was so poor I’m surprised the bike was running so well. There were sections of wire where the sheath was completely melted off but where the PO couldn’t reach to poorly wrap insulating tape around, the cables were just left bare in the frame. I have a lot of hours ahead of me going through the loom with a fine tooth comb.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071834-1169177.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071833-11682367.jpeg)
The fire has managed to completely melt the fuel sender plug on both the tank and loom side. BMW don’t make this part anymore and it’s proving difficult to get a hold of, not to mention pricey.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071830-1164451.jpeg)
Of course the 1988 spare bike has the later float unit so unfortunately no joy in swaps here :(
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071831-1164312.jpeg)
I removed 140mm from the rear of the frame to meet the proportions of the new seat, fabricated new bracketry for the seat, tank and rear light then de tabbed and dressed ready for welding at a local shop.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071835-1171822.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071837-117392.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071837-11731012.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071839-1175692.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071838-11751823.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071842-11791831.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071844-118255.jpeg)
Progress continued nicely and I got down to the heart of the beast, listing parts as I went.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071840-1176648.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071841-1177605.jpeg)
I was lucky to get the exhaust off with little effort, thankfully only needed a smaller socket hammered onto the #1 cylinder outlet, the rest came off with little persuasion.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071845-1182110.jpeg)
Then the water pump driven gear decided to shear and the oil/water seal, which I expected was original was nearly welded in the pump housing. I couldn’t get at it with my seal puller and was getting minimal purchase with a drift via the smaller diameter hole in the opposite side. In the end I ended up carefully using a dremmel to make a nick in the remainder of the old seal and managed to lever underneath it.. 1 hr later.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071841-11781657.jpeg)
Continued the breakdown, logging and parts listing.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071843-11801800.jpeg)
And current state. Top and bottom end half painted in gloss black.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230418071846-11841510.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on April 23, 2018, 05:35:08 PM
Post by: DJEwen on April 24, 2018, 06:32:49 AM
Moving along at a cracking pace. Due to circumstances beyond my control mine hasn't made much progress at at all sinceDecember. Hoping to get back to it in May .
Thanks, Skunky. Looking forward to your updates. Unfortunately due to circumstances outwith my control (not knowing a part number, even if a number exists) I can’t see my build going much further. Until I can get a replacement snap ring on the output shaft business end of the cases (the one that controls float) then this build is going nowhere. I can’t seem to find a part number anywhere and tinterwebs producing nothing. #LooseEnd
Post by: Skunky on April 24, 2018, 05:43:13 PM
Output shaft.png (37.14 kB . 529x401 - viewed 1211 times)If not you should be able to find the part number here.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51747
Full set of Fiche diagrams with part number lists.
Post by: Skunky on April 24, 2018, 05:45:31 PM
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: DJEwen on April 24, 2018, 05:51:22 PM
Post by: DJEwen on April 25, 2018, 08:39:12 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250418083427-11912441.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250418083427-1192356.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250418083431-1193362.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250418083425-11891234.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250418083425-11892390.jpeg)
Post by: Enfield on April 25, 2018, 08:49:11 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on April 25, 2018, 08:59:54 AM
Great choice[emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, Enfield. I’ll be honest, when I saw your bike, I was like, shiit. It was like you had climbed into my mind. I had been planning since summer last year too. It made me change my design a lot and I nearly painted Nardo Grey until this brand new colour was released on the 31st March.
I have a few other big custom changes coming that I’m not going to share until the reveal however.
Post by: Enfield on April 25, 2018, 09:15:33 AM
Thanks, Enfield. I’ll be honest, when I saw your bike, I was like, shiit. It was like you had climbed into my mind. I had been planning since summer last year too. It made me change my design a lot and I nearly painted Nardo Grey until this brand new colour was released on the 31st March.I am looking forward to see it!! The colour you have on yours really looks really Great - a bit lighter than “ Feld Grau” ... BTW “Feld Grau” covers two variants - the one on mine and a Black/Grey one... planned to use that on my next build. I bought two K’s and the second one is up for a rebuild ...this time without any of the mistakes I made on the first.... only thing Holding me back is that I found out it has vin.no 00000095 and is in original condition.... maybe a shame to cut in it.
I have a few other big custom changes coming that I’m not going to share until the reveal however.
Regards
Chr
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 04, 2018, 02:10:22 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040518015909-1214781.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040518020836-12181584.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040518015915-121660.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040518015915-12161688.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040518015909-12141329.jpeg)
And now I have vibration white finger :yes
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 04, 2018, 07:27:14 AM
only thing Holding me back is that I found out it has vin.no 00000095 and is in original condition.... maybe a shame to cut in it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Go for it. Think of it as a contribution toward making the rest of our bikes, someday, more valuable to collectors.
Post by: Enfield on May 04, 2018, 03:14:59 PM
Go for it. Think of it as a contribution toward making the rest of our bikes, someday, more valuable to collectors.Sorry - but it aint going to happen. The more I look at the early naked K100 the more I Like it. Nobody did any mods or anything - it is Stock 1983!
I Will find a cheap miskept one to cut in [emoji41]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 05, 2018, 12:16:01 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050518120913-1219194.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050518120919-1221501.jpeg)
More paint :D
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050518121158-12242129.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050518121024-12221894.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050518121151-12231736.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on May 05, 2018, 12:19:50 PM
More paint :DYou missed a spot. :giggles
Post by: bocutter Ed on May 05, 2018, 09:02:12 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 06, 2018, 12:48:20 PM
You spotted a miss? Where ...
He was being sarcastic :yes
Post by: DJEwen on May 06, 2018, 12:52:56 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-060518124611-12251151.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-060518124646-1228844.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-060518124643-1227308.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-060518124652-1229615.jpeg)
It’s going to be slow from here on, hopefully try and find an hour or two an evening.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 06, 2018, 04:34:28 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 07, 2018, 03:33:17 PM
Dang, that looks purdy!
Thanks, Gryph!
I just wrecked the new rear main seal. Read 0.5 protrusion is best but many on the forums said flush. I went to 0.5, didn’t seem right, went to flush, seemed too much, tried to extract with my seal puller. Well, it’s fu@&£d now.
Now at the mercy of next day delivery.
I need to slow it down.
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2018, 12:54:08 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124108-12351551.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124057-12331061.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124106-12341761.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124039-12302379.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124119-12371482.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124051-12322083.jpeg)
I started to rebuild the water pump, got the new shaft pulled through on the new seals but realised I needed a new impeller bolt, which is now on order.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124125-1240581.jpeg)
Got the intermediate housing on, clutch in, gearbox mounted, crank case cover installed, rocker cover installed and the started motor re-mounted.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124114-12362478.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120518124120-12381383.jpeg)
Tomorrow I’m opening the TGPI for an inspection, Mount the airbox and hopefully get he swing arm, shock, frame, final drive etc all mounted.
I’m posting some stuff on my Instagram too, it’s the same username if you want to give me a follow - DJEwen
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2018, 06:58:26 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518065437-12411164.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518065438-1241773.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2018, 07:09:13 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518070654-12431240.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518070654-1243396.jpeg)
Hopefully the callipers will seal :2thumbup:
Post by: Filmcamera on May 14, 2018, 03:48:42 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2018, 04:09:58 PM
When I had my calipers powder coated they did both sides - the inside as well as the outside. I had to slowly and painfully sand the powder coating off the insides where the two halves mate. It was a long and tedious process, as was making sure the holes for the brake fluid to pass through etc were all ok as well. In the end, however it worked fine and the calipers seal perfectly with no leaks..
I just dropped my whisky and ran to the garage to check this! Fortunately the shop I used covered the mating halves with foil tape.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518160536-12451183.jpeg)
On another note, is it normal for the #4 Spark Plug Lead to be really long? I just reversed the spark plug connection (facing toward the front rather than toward the coils) and installed that way. I didn’t take note of the position prior to removal but did label the lead numbers. It didn’t seem right.
Post by: Filmcamera on May 14, 2018, 04:19:05 PM
Yes, the leads are a little long and do need to be folded back on themselves a little to fit correctly.
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2018, 04:43:53 PM
I do hope I was not the inadvertent cause of spilled whisky!
Yes, the leads are a little long and do need to be folded back on themselves a little to fit correctly.
There’s plenty more where that came from :D
Excellent, I was scratching my head for a little while there. Thanks for the clarification.
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2018, 04:59:28 PM
While waiting on parts I decided to work on the future Acewell speedo mount. I drilled an M5 hole in the under side of the upper clamp of the fork bridge and tapped the hole out to M6 which will take the factory Acewell mount that comes with the CA85.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518165157-12461088.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140518165202-12471633.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 18, 2018, 02:24:38 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021106-1255769.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021106-12551017.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021101-12501484.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021101-12501864.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021105-1253415.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021105-12532432.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021104-1252829.jpeg)
Post by: Scottsinvic on May 18, 2018, 07:10:37 PM
Post by: Martin on May 18, 2018, 09:01:21 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Scottsinvic on May 18, 2018, 10:23:52 PM
Post by: Martin on May 18, 2018, 11:56:57 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on May 19, 2018, 11:06:24 AM
That's nice! maybe a silly question.... but how on earth did you clean the insides so well prior to painting?
Hi Scott. I carefully powerwashed through the fins to get the worst of it out, then I put the lot in the dish washer on a pot cycle, dried overnight then got to work straightening the fins with a eBay fin straightening tool and a series of picks, mostly the picks.
Post by: DJEwen on May 19, 2018, 11:13:11 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110904-12591266.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110858-12581273.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110912-1261676.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110912-12612168.jpeg)
Slowly, slowly.
Post by: DJEwen on May 19, 2018, 02:56:36 PM
This is how the unit currently looks, maybe a little sorry for itself? It’s hampering build progress.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110853-12571378.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110904-12591529.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190518110936-126371.jpeg)
I’ve not taken the cover off for a look yet but have a couple questions. I never tested the unit before strip down so I’m not sure if the neutral light or any gear position indicator is working. In the vide I posted of the bike running First Start (http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/videos/5327_17_02_18_2_34_34.MOV) you can see there is no neutral light. Does the light go out once started? I understand no neutral light could be either the board in the lunch box or the GPI itself?
I’ll be installing an Acewell speedo during the rebuild. Is there any way I can bench test the TGPI without the need to connect it to the loom?
First Start (http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/videos/5327_17_02_18_2_34_34.MOV)
https://youtu.be/lu6NejvyMlI (https://youtu.be/lu6NejvyMlI)
Post by: Laitch on May 19, 2018, 03:43:48 PM
Does the light go out once started?The neutral light should indicate that the transmission is in neutral. It stays lit until there is a gear change. Maybe its bulb is defective. Here (http://www.k100-forum.com/t10495-gear-indicator-board-for-1985-k100rt-instruments#124102) is some guidance about the switch.
Post by: Martin on May 19, 2018, 04:33:45 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 05:26:26 AM
The neutral light should indicate that the transmission is in neutral. It stays lit until there is a gear change. Maybe its bulb is defective. Here (http://www.k100-forum.com/t10495-gear-indicator-board-for-1985-k100rt-instruments#124102) is some guidance about the switch.
Hi Laitch, I’m quite clear on the function of the GPI. Thanks for the information on that thread, very useful.
When you replace the TGPI replace the mounting screws with stainless Allen screws and Kopper Kote the threads. Before you mount it coat it with some sort of waterproofing. I used Plastidip in red ( faster gear changes) don't put too much around the screw holes and leave the back coating free. Mine has been like that for about 18 years I checked it about 5 years ago and it was still holding up.
Regards Martin.
Good advice Martin! Jeez... I didn’t know plasti-dip had been on the go for 18 years already! I had planned to just re-install it with a new gasket and in a cocoon of silicone.
Does anyone actually know if, without hooking it up to the loom and turning on ignition etc etc if the unit can be bench tested in a stand alone form?
From the information given and read on the forums it appears it’s uncommon for the unit to have failed unless the case has been breached and the contacts corroded, I may just bite the bullet, open it up, clean it, and reinstall then cross my fingers that I’m not pulling the final drive and swing arm once I get round to wiring in the Acewell...
Post by: Martin on May 20, 2018, 05:35:50 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Latvietis on May 20, 2018, 05:47:53 AM
I like your posts on instagram, you are really going fast!
I opened mine switch, because i knew there is some problems! Mine gear possition indicator on the dashboard is damaged so i cant see any gear, but it only showed something different when i was in third and fifth gear. That is why i opened it.
I opened it and found out, that one of pin springs is melted (idk why). I changed spring with bmw e46 door lock spring! It was quite longer, but it worked!
About testing- you can use multimeter with beeping function. Take diagram with colours from that forum posted before. Put it in some gear, or if it is taken off, do a manual turn with screw driver. Put it in some “gear” and test it.
Im not a tech guru, so i improvised! Switch works now, but it dont show neutral light.. i took dash board from friends k100 and green light worked, so the problem is in my dash board (but have no clue where..)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 06:07:36 AM
Hey!
I like your posts on instagram, you are really going fast!
I opened mine switch, because i knew there is some problems! Mine gear possition indicator on the dashboard is damaged so i cant see any gear, but it only showed something different when i was in third and fifth gear. That is why i opened it.
I opened it and found out, that one of pin springs is melted (idk why). I changed spring with bmw e46 door lock spring! It was quite longer, but it worked!
About testing- you can use multimeter with beeping function. Take diagram with colours from that forum posted before. Put it in some gear, or if it is taken off, do a manual turn with screw driver. Put it in some “gear” and test it.
Im not a tech guru, so i improvised! Switch works now, but it dont show neutral light.. i took dash board from friends k100 and green light worked, so the problem is in my dash board (but have no clue where..)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. I thought this was slow compared to others.
That’s a good shout, simulate the gear shift using that colourful diagram and a screw driver.
Maybe it’s the bulb in your dash?
Post by: Latvietis on May 20, 2018, 06:14:31 AM
You are going fast, but cant compete with Ditstang :D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 06:27:09 AM
Bulb is fine.. i thought maybe because of lcd display it dont hit green light :( I dont know :D
You are going fast, but cant compete with Ditstang :D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Let me know how you figure it out.
Just pulled the indicator apart and it appears the outer pin is suppressed in the hole, perhaps a collapsed spring or is this the normal position? Similar to your issue?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518062258-12671452.jpeg)
Haha, no one can compete with Distang! It’s Marrakeschrot_643 who will be on the road first I think! Then maybe Custom_Moto :D
Post by: Latvietis on May 20, 2018, 06:33:45 AM
I got it out in two peaces and obviously melted in the middle.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 06:44:02 AM
I think its too deep! It wont make contact to the plate like this. Be careful, because it can shoot that shiny thing real far! I tuned them ower to get the shiny thing and spring out.. 2 of 3 springs got out good, but the last one ( which for you is the deepest) didnt come out! Had to find very thin wire to get it out.
I got it out in two peaces and obviously melted in the middle.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just checked Frogs build on the K100 forum and see all three pins should be sprung proud in order to contact properly.
I got it out, this is all that was left:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518063930-1268860.jpeg)
Time to pull the one from the spare bike and see what I can produce from the two.
Thanks for your help :D
Post by: Latvietis on May 20, 2018, 06:48:30 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 12:13:23 PM
No problem! Same thing what happened for me! [emoji28] got spring from lock which comes in doors. I dont know from which (e46 i guess) it was about 1-2mm longer, but it worked!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorted :2thumbup:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518121146-12822169.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 12:21:40 PM
Thoughts on the splines?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120617-1275951.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518121051-12812209.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120545-12731884.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120607-1274628.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120734-12761382.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518121003-12802444.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518121228-12841148.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518121146-1282695.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2018, 12:25:15 PM
Thoughts on the splines?:2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 12:55:19 PM
:2thumbup:
That’ll do me!
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 12:59:52 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120959-12791281.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-200518120956-12781593.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 20, 2018, 01:07:55 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 20, 2018, 01:09:18 PM
FWIW, I have heard that the spring under the flint of a Bic cigarette lighter is the right size to go under the pins in the TGPI switch.
Excellent! I’ll get one of those to replace the one I basterficated.
Post by: DJEwen on May 22, 2018, 04:44:11 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220518163919-12861968.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220518163942-12902278.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220518163931-12891110.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220518163944-12911201.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 23, 2018, 05:24:42 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230518171704-1292191.jpeg)
Rear disc mounted, rear calliper rebuilt and installed, speedo pick-up cleaned and installed, rear wheel mounted.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230518171749-1295140.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230518171730-12932039.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230518171744-12941444.jpeg)
Tailpipe Mount finished, awaiting some springs.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230518171754-12961976.jpeg)
Happy with how it’s looking. Need to order some valve shims before the week end.
Post by: DJEwen on May 24, 2018, 02:49:10 PM
Like Mr Harris used to say “loose is fine, if they’re loose, leave them the fcuk alone”
I’ve just measured mine, none were tight but No.4 Intake, and No.2, 3 & 4 Exhaust are over the maximum.
So, is over max bad?
Intake #4= .225
Exhaust #2= .406
Exhaust #3= .432
Exhaust #4= .381
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-240518144122-12971677.jpeg)
Thoughts welcomed.
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2018, 03:30:32 PM
. . . Like Mr Harris used to say “loose is fine, if they’re loose, leave them the fcuk alone” . . . So, is over max bad?You don't make a very good disciple, do you? :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on May 24, 2018, 03:41:07 PM
You don't make a very good disciple, do you? :giggles
Haha, I know, Laitch, but MAXIMUM means MAXIMUM for a reason... right?
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2018, 05:11:38 PM
Haha, I know, Laitch, but MAXIMUM means MAXIMUM for a reason... right?Right! Obviously, the reason varies according to the state of your personal and spiritual development.
One reason is that it's the best word to have as an opposite meaning of minimum because it is also a three-syllable word with the same number of letters and sharing the letter m at the beginning of its first and third syllables. The fact that it contains an X should be convincing. Maybe it would be more convincing if it were spelled with XXX, but that would move it into the realm of porn and into a different set of variables.
There is a belief that excess lash can cause premature wear of valves and valve seats. The engine is bound to be noisier. What's the payoff of not setting it to spec? If I'd invested as much effort as you in restoring a bike to this extent, I'd be going by the book.
Post by: Skunky on May 24, 2018, 05:33:54 PM
Happy popping
Post by: DJEwen on May 25, 2018, 02:34:44 AM
There is a belief that excess lash can cause premature wear of valves and valve seats. The engine is bound to be noisier. What's the payoff of not setting it to spec? If I'd invested as much effort as you in restoring a bike to this extent, I'd be going by the book.
Hi mate, ride it hard and you'll soon bring those gaps down. The only problem with oversized exhaust valve clearances is a minimal loss of compression when engine braking and perhaps a little fuel in the exhaust for those big pops you wanted when you ordered that tuba of an exhaust.
Happy popping
Rock and a hard place... :dunno2:
Post by: Skunky on May 25, 2018, 03:21:44 AM
Post by: DJEwen on May 25, 2018, 04:07:23 AM
To be honest I would probably ride it for a few months and see how it went. If your unhappy with the ride or if there is excess valve noise then you can always take the cover off and change the shims. On the other hand if it's ok you may decide to live with it. On a bike with 44k I can only think that they were set high in the first place. Mine were pretty spot on at 60K
Braaap, Braaap, pop, pop it is then :2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on May 30, 2018, 03:24:56 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 30, 2018, 03:48:10 PM
Got the front wheel bearings installed, discs on and wheel balanced.
https://youtu.be/lqj69RSVARo (https://youtu.be/lqj69RSVARo)
Installed the rebuilt forks in the triple clamp. Cleaned up the nearly new stainless brake lines. Rebuilt the front callipers with new Brembo seal kits and stainless bleed nipples.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300518154337-131123.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300518154243-13092394.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300518154244-13102455.jpeg)
Replaced the Engine, Gearbox, Final Drive and Fork Oils... 330cc/330ml didn’t ‘feel’ like enough for the front end :dunno2:
Over the rest of the week/weekend I’d like to get round to investigating and hopefully repairing the stuck rear master cylinder and hopefully fitting the right hand side sets. Create and install the custom expansion tank and add some coolant, then make a start on refreshing the main wiring loom/harness.
Post by: Skunky on May 30, 2018, 07:19:15 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 31, 2018, 06:50:02 AM
Looking very clean and new. Should be a stunner.
Thanks, here's hoping.
Post by: DJEwen on June 03, 2018, 01:04:56 PM
I was trial fitting the aftermarket headlight today and see it requires a H4 bulb. I can obviously install a standard filament bulb but I see the LEDs are equally priced. Can anyone tell me if I’ll have any issues installing a LED H4? Will there be a need for resistors or such like to be wired in also?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Post by: Skunky on June 03, 2018, 03:12:58 PM
Please excuse the lack of updates, I have a family member in the hospital.
I was trial fitting the aftermarket headlight today and see it requires a H4 bulb. I can obviously install a standard filament bulb but I see the LEDs are equally priced. Can anyone tell me if I’ll have any issues installing a LED H4? Will there be a need for resistors or such like to be wired in also?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Hi Dave
Depends on the headlight. Some come with the load resistors built in and others don't. Should be written in the leaflet supplied.
Post by: DJEwen on June 03, 2018, 03:31:25 PM
Hi Dave
Depends on the headlight. Some come with the load resistors built in and others don't. Should be written in the leaflet supplied.
Hi Skunky, nothing built inline. Thanks for the information, I’ll order a standard filament job.
While you’re informing- I’ve got LED indicators, is it just a case of doing the hyper flash snip to the flasher relay to combat these once wired? (I read this about 6 months ago so may be incorrect)
Post by: Laitch on June 03, 2018, 04:41:47 PM
I’ve got LED indicators, is it just a case of doing the hyper flash snip to the flasher relay to combat these once wired?Skunky is having issues. I'll intercede. LED indicator success is just a snip away, as long as the correct trace is snipped. There are plenty of illustrations (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,659.msg61461.html#msg61461) although the orientation of those might vary slighty. The thread has the info. It's still valid.
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 07:05:00 AM
Skunky is having issues. I'll intercede. LED indicator success is just a snip away, as long as the correct trace is snipped. There are plenty of illustrations (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,659.msg61461.html#msg61461) although the orientation of those might vary slighty. The thread has the info. It's still valid.
Excellent, thanks Laitch.
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 07:18:52 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618070643-13281507.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618070643-13271.jpeg)
I have yet to decide how to secure it, its naturally quite snug where it sits perched on the radiator hose with its size and with a cable tie through the lid and the frame :giggles
Post by: Laitch on June 04, 2018, 07:43:32 AM
It now consists of a Aluminium 500ml matte black camping water bottle. I drilled a hole in the bottom and fitted a 90 degree 1/4" Hose barb.The quality of this idea does not match the effort you have put elsewhere. Is it temporary? How will you check the coolant level? It's best not to overfill or let it diminish excessively. One of my favorite custom designs is in this post's photo array (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7930.0.html).
I have yet to decide how to secure it, its naturally quite snug where it sits perched on the radiator hose with its size and with a cable tie through the lid and the frame :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 08:04:49 AM
The quality of this idea does not match the effort you have put elsewhere. Is it temporary? How will you check the coolant level? It's best not to overfill or let it diminish excessively. One of my favorite custom designs is in this post's photo array (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7930.0.html).
Agreed. I can't believe he chopped that K1! :yow Yeah it's a cool reservoir, a bit loud for my taste though.
It is temporary while the ongoing saga of "where's my fucking bit" continues. It may very well end up with 2 more 90 degree barbs at either end being tigged in with a clear tube crimped between them then fixed to the bike properly. For now, however, it'll get me through to first start and tune.
#LiterallyTheSlowBoatFromChina
Post by: Laitch on June 04, 2018, 08:25:32 AM
Yeah it's a cool reservoir, a bit loud for my taste though.Right. Oatmeal and plaid is good enough. :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 02:50:44 PM
Right. Oatmeal and plaid is good enough. :giggles
AND Heather.
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 03:59:58 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145633-13292056.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145902-1333123.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145917-13341813.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145854-13321734.jpeg)
So... I feel a little out of my depth with regards to the wiring. I’m no electrician, I can solder, I have solder, a soldering iron, heat shrink, flux, dielectric grease, multi meter etc etc. I read P&IDs in my job which naturally translates over into reading the wiring diagram with ease but I do feel a little overwhelmed.
Eventually managed to procure a used sender to replace the melted one.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145811-1331886.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618145754-13302312.jpeg)
I started to mock up up the run, I had planned, in my head, to mount the BEP 3.0 in the electric box, it seemed the most logical place, I realise this will be a tight squeeze but doable. It’s clear I need to strip the harness right back in order to relocate the two main plugs, that originally terminated in the lunchbox dash, down to the electrical box to be mated up to the BEP as intended. Doing this will obviously leave me with a long run of spare cable, I had no intentions of doubling this back on itself or trying to stuff it in the electrical box and think the cleanest way would be to shorten. How would I do this, can I pop each individual cable from the plug somehow, shorten then re-terminate or would I have to cut, solder, seal? Or should I double back tidy under the frame?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618150037-1335488.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040618150041-1336322.jpeg)
So... the BEP 3.0... Apologies in advance if I’m being a total idiot. I have a wiring diagram for the Acewell and the K wiring diagram. The BEP is ‘simple’, right, you plug the main plugs from the original dash in to their respective ports, you then terminate from each labelled output to their respective component and that’s it? Is that it? What I’m not clear on are the original cables that don’t form part of those two plugs, example: Headlight or flashers. What happens to those, they still terminate to their respective relays. Do they need to run from the relays into the outputs of the BEP then jump on to the specific component? The BEP didn’t come with a manual either which isn’t helping my confusion. I’ve searched a lot of threads that have detail regarding certain aspects of the BEP but it doesn’t appear anyone’s posted a detailed installation thread.
Thanks in advance
Dave
Post by: Skunky on June 04, 2018, 04:12:03 PM
Hi Skunky, nothing built inline. Thanks for the information, I’ll order a standard filament job.
While you’re informing- I’ve got LED indicators, is it just a case of doing the hyper flash snip to the flasher relay to combat these once wired? (I read this about 6 months ago so may be incorrect)
Hi Mate
Before you chop anything are you planning on keeping the stock speedo or fitting an aftermarket one. If you are thinking of using the Marulabs 3.0 module you wont need any resistance for LED indicators as they have built it into the device. If you are using the original speedo its easier to fit in line led indicator resistors. Available on ebay for peanuts.
Post by: Skunky on June 04, 2018, 04:23:48 PM
If you go to Café racer 4 u you can download detailed instructions for fitting with an acewell written in English by Marulabs.
https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html
It goes into much more detail than any thread I've seen and made it much easier.
Post by: DJEwen on June 04, 2018, 04:40:29 PM
Hi Mate
Before you chop anything are you planning on keeping the stock speedo or fitting an aftermarket one. If you are thinking of using the Marulabs 3.0 module you wont need any resistance for LED indicators as they have built it into the device. If you are using the original speedo its easier to fit in line led indicator resistors. Available on ebay for peanuts.
Thanks, Skunky. I’ve not chopped anything other than cutting out the damage and repairing. It’s the 3.0 I have, so I won’t need to make the flasher relay snip mod as it’s built into the BEP 3.0 already? I’m installing an Acewell CA85.
Wow what a mess. The BEP was relatively easy to install you just have to make sure that you get the right polarity for each output. As I said just now the LED indicators won't need resistors as Marulabs have fitted a switch and internal resistors.
If you go to Café racer 4 u you can download detailed instructions for fitting with an acewell written in English by Marulabs.
https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html
It goes into much more detail than any thread I've seen and made it much easier.
Excellent, I’ll go download that. Thanks. What did you do, Skunky? Did you use the original wiring for their respective conpnonent, chop it out and terminate it to the BEP outputs?
Post by: Skunky on June 04, 2018, 05:14:36 PM
If my bike turns out to be a keeper I may update all the wiring with the Motogadget M-unit. I just thought it was a bit pricy at this stage.
Post by: DJEwen on June 05, 2018, 03:44:27 PM
No I just pulled the original wiring through the frame and under the tank and made a new looms to go to the new speedo headlights etc. That way you can put the original clocks back in at any time. Some people have enough slack that they have managed to get it in the electrical box. You might want to put it back together with the stock speedo and run it before fitting the acewell. Make sure you have repaired all of the burnt wiring issues.
If my bike turns out to be a keeper I may update all the wiring with the Motogadget M-unit. I just thought it was a bit pricy at this stage.
That’s a great idea with respect to trying back the dash first.
So, you’re saying you just left in all the original sections but run new cabling from the outputs of the BEP?
This was where my confusion lay “what about all the original cables and terminations” They just become redundant? Do most just snip them and forget about them, except yourself of course?
Post by: Skunky on June 05, 2018, 04:27:08 PM
I have a soldering iron and heat shrink and wherever possible used the stock joins under the tank by soldering new cables onto the old ones. If your headlight has the same three prong H$ fitting you may not need to do it. Mine has the new daymaker lamps in and needed re-wiring. The indicators I traced the wiring back and remade the connections under the tank. The rear lights and indicators I used the stock connector under the new set / Tail so that I can remove the while lot by disconnecting it. The speedo you just plug the existing connectors into the BEP3.0 and then run new wires to the speedo. The wires on the cheap Chinese unit were far too short so I bought some multicore cable meant for caravan towbars and stripped the wire out to make a new loom them made solder joints along a length of about 6 inches to keep it tidy using heat shrink and tape to keep it tidy(ish).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Core-Towbar-Cable-Per-Metre/302724558226?hash=item467bca2d92:g:-bEAAOSwRQla6Ysp
Post by: Skunky on June 05, 2018, 04:36:06 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 05, 2018, 04:49:01 PM
Right, OK. I understand it all now. Wowzers, I was having a total brain fart there but see it really isn’t that complicated at all. I can see this taking an age though, I’m at the hospital every second night right now too.
The caravan 12 core is a great idea for a loom run. Just checked that link and it doesn’t seem to detail thickness of the individual cores?
Post by: Skunky on June 05, 2018, 05:04:15 PM
Ahhhh...
Right, OK. I understand it all now. Wowzers, I was having a total brain fart there but see it really isn’t that complicated at all. I can see this taking an age though, I’m at the hospital every second night right now too.
The caravan 12 core is a great idea for a loom run. Just checked that link and it doesn’t seem to detail thickness of the individual cores?
The cores are designed for 12v dc so will be fine.
If you are fitting led all round you can even do away with the bulb monitoring circuit. I didn't bother though.
Post by: DJEwen on June 06, 2018, 06:30:01 AM
Post by: DJEwen on June 07, 2018, 04:08:14 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-070618154233-13371446.jpeg)
The new rear master arrived also so I decided to take a break from harness repair and get the rear brake finished.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-070618154236-13391434.jpeg)
I got everything installed and started bleeding the rear calliper, half way through, yep... a leak from the calliper halves. I drained, cleaned the brake fluid off my new paint, took the calliper to the bench and stripped it.
Now... this calliper is the double O ring type, my brembo rebuild kits only came with single O-Rings (as also confirmed by Motoworks) so I also purchased a calliper mating half O ring from Motoworks. There was a noticeable difference in the two, the Brembo type was thicker but the stand alone O ring didn’t seem to be lacking diameter to seal, however, immediately on splitting the calliper it was apparent the sealing faces outside of the non Brembo O ring were marked with fluid whereas the Brembo end was dry, it is possible that fluid passed over the mating surface the second I split the calliper so it’s difficult to tell.
I cleaned everything up, checked alignment again, re-installed the seals and ran around the outside of them with some gasket maker. I appreciate gasket maker likely won’t hold the hydraulic pressure but I was happy to give it an attempt. I gave the instant gasket 10 minutes to skin over then re mated the halves and added an additional 10% torque load. Will see what happens tomorrow.
I think my next step, if it leaks again, would be to split one of the fronts to steal the genuine Brembo O-Ring and install it in the rear in an attempt to eliminate non Brembo O-Ring as fault.
Any ideas?
Post by: DJEwen on June 08, 2018, 04:18:18 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-080618160749-1341338.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-080618160748-13401310.jpeg)
I turned the seal inside out so the tear was facing the internal cast of the calliper rather than the piston, mated the halves back together (without instant gasket), returned to the bike, bled, pumped up- no leaks from the halves again but the inner half continued to leak via the piston, much less than before, more of a seep. I need 1x calliper seal....
On a positive note, the main harness repairs are complete and the electrical box and loom are back in the bike.
Lesson of the week learned- slow down, take your time, there is no rush.
Except summer will be gone by the time I’ve finsihed this and I’ve nothing else to ride
Post by: DJEwen on June 09, 2018, 12:07:00 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-090618120353-134387.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-090618120350-13422403.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on June 09, 2018, 12:37:36 PM
greetings...
this is gonna be 1 hawt brick...
j o
Fingers crossed, Johnny!
Post by: DJEwen on June 10, 2018, 02:37:42 PM
Today I wired up the new rear light, flashers and installed the gear shifter.
I then mounted the LHS control housing with lever and grip, got some hair spray but the hairspray grip trick didn’t seem to work for me?
I ran in and adjusted the new choke lever and installed the clutch lever- man that baby is tight, quite a left hand workout to clutch, is that normal?
Also, finished the rear calliper with thankfully no leaks. I do however have a bit of contact with the disc whilst the brake is off, I believe the term is dragging. There is no corrosion on the calliper housings or pistons and both were lubed with DOT 4 during install, any thoughts on how to cure this?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Post by: Skunky on June 12, 2018, 06:06:42 PM
Hello Brickers
Today I wired up the new rear light, flashers and installed the gear shifter.
I then mounted the LHS control housing with lever and grip, stole the ball and chains hair spray but the hairspray grip trick didn’t seem to work for me?
I ran in and adjusted the new choke lever and installed the clutch lever- man that baby is tight, quite a left hand workout to clutch, is that normal?
Also, finished the rear calliper with thankfully no leaks. I do however have a bit of contact with the disc whilst the brake is off, I believe the term is dragging. There is no corrosion on the calliper housings or pistons and both were lubed with DOT 4 during install, any thoughts on how to cure this?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Hi Dave
It's appears from the forum that its normally the Clutch arm bearings that need greasing but I think you did yours already.
Also remember these bikes are designed for 7ft Germans not namby-pamby Geordies. He put a Mod on his
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10301.0;attach=70712;image
Anyway Mine was pretty hard too. I freed it up and slathered grease on the bugger and its seems ok now. Firm but fair.
Post by: Martin on June 12, 2018, 08:13:11 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on June 13, 2018, 02:58:36 AM
Hi Dave
It's appears from the forum that its normally the Clutch arm bearings that need greasing but I think you did yours already.
Also remember these bikes are designed for 7ft Germans not namby-pamby Geordies. He put a Mod on his
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10301.0;attach=70712;image
Anyway Mine was pretty hard too. I freed it up and slathered grease on the bugger and its seems ok now. Firm but fair.
That's right, Skunky, all bearings new, fresh and greased. I've not done Martins grease nipple MOD, yet [goes to ebay for grease gun and nipples] Even just pushing the clutch arm up into the clutch felt like a bit of a task, the spring plate is tough. I guess 6' 2" of Scotsman is no match for 7' German.
Lube the cable with a PTFE based lubricant not WD40. Lubricate all pivot points with white lithium spray grease. Make sure the clutch lever is lubricated and not sloppy.
Regards Martin.
All tight and lubed, Martin :2thumbup:
Anyone got any tips on the draggy rear brake from a few posts up?
Post by: DJEwen on June 13, 2018, 03:52:01 PM
Really close to first start.... potentially this weekend... :falldown:
Post by: Latvietis on June 13, 2018, 03:53:26 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on June 13, 2018, 04:25:46 PM
No photos?.. [emoji80]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m trying not to give too much away! Classic chrome round mirrors installed. Rag covering the shortened fender removed. I didn’t like how much I chopped this initially and wasn’t going to run it but it’s grown on me.
Switch gear buttons will be restored this weeken, post function test.
Just for you, Latvietis:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-130618161849-13671523.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-130618161801-1365502.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-130618161803-13662018.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on June 13, 2018, 07:32:02 PM
What lights have you got on the Speedo and have you planned for a fuel light. I had but changed my mind when I saw how difficult it was going to be.
Post by: Enfield on June 13, 2018, 11:30:42 PM
I’m trying not to give too much away! Classic chrome round mirrors installed. Rag covering the shortened fender removed. I didn’t like how much I chopped this initially and wasn’t going to run it but it’s grown on me.
Damn it is looking Good ! Did you lift the front fender? It is a thight fit with Scout! I drilled new holes that allowed it to be lifted just about an inch!
Hope you Will be riding this summer[emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on June 14, 2018, 03:12:01 AM
Hey DJ,
What lights have you got on the Speedo and have you planned for a fuel light. I had but changed my mind when I saw how difficult it was going to be.
Hi Skunky. The Acewell CA 85 comes with Oil, Water, Fuel, High Beam, Shift Light, Indicators, Neutral and a load of other functions, here's a link: http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/Acewell%20Speedometers/ACE-CA85/CA85+Modern+Face.htm?currency=GBP&action=full&id=302 (http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/Acewell%20Speedometers/ACE-CA85/CA85+Modern+Face.htm?currency=GBP&action=full&id=302)
I do intend to have a fuel light, from what I've researched on the forums to date, I understand the Acewell and BEP 3.0 senses the level easily with 1985 (pre float) electronic sender and that it indicates a fuel light at 7L - I could be wrong though??
Damn it is looking Good ! Did you lift the front fender? It is a tight fit with Scout! I drilled new holes that allowed it to be lifted just about an inch!
Hope you Will be riding this summer[emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, Enfield. I did, drilled 4 new holes and lifted it about 15mm, no contact now and visually sits better. I hope so too! MOT is booked for the 29th :riding:
Post by: rbm on June 14, 2018, 08:04:51 AM
I do intend to have a fuel light, from what I've researched on the forums to date, I understand the Acewell and BEP 3.0 senses the level easily with 1985 (pre float) electronic sender and that it indicates a fuel light at 7L - I could be wrong though??Yes, the BEP 3.0 has a circuit to sense 7L threshold on the pre-85 fuel sender and trigger a lamp. The signal is active LOW meaning it goes to ground potential when activated. This only works with inputs on the CA85 that are also active LOW. Acewell is not specific in the manual whether the low fuel light is active HIGH or active LOW.
Post by: DJEwen on June 14, 2018, 08:16:42 AM
Yes, the BEP 3.0 has a circuit to sense 7L threshold on the pre-85 fuel sender and trigger a lamp. The signal is active LOW meaning it goes to ground potential when activated. This only works with inputs on the CA85 that are also active LOW. Acewell is not specific in the manual whether the low fuel light is active HIGH or active LOW.
Thanks, Martin. I'm planning to have the Acwell wired in by the weekend - I was hoping with the vast amount of data there is already online of wiring an Acewell with the BEP that I wouldn't need to lean on the forum too much, however, I just had to google active HIGH/LOW so I'll probably be in need of your genius.
Post by: rbm on June 14, 2018, 10:56:58 AM
Some indicator lights on the gauge activate when a +12V signal is applied to the wire. This is termed active high. Opening the circuit will turn off the indicator. Internally to the gauge, the LED cathode is grounded. An example of an active HIGH input is the turn signal indicator.
Alternatively, some of the indicator lights activate when they get grounded. This is termed active low. Opening the circuit to the input will turn off the indicator. Internally to the gauge, the LED anode is connected to the +12V going to the gauge. An example of an active LOW input is the oil pressure indicator.
Post by: DJEwen on June 15, 2018, 03:24:44 PM
The quality of this idea does not match the effort you have put elsewhere. Is it temporary? How will you check the coolant level? It's best not to overfill or let it diminish excessively. One of my favorite custom designs is in this post's photo array (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7930.0.html).
My custom expansion tank never arrived, I got the money back via a paypal dispute.
How about now, Laitch, any better? This was my first time wrapping.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150223-13711972.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150149-1369723.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618151503-1381609.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150218-13702157.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150508-13751096.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150427-1374743.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150507-13751188.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150350-13722396.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150535-1377995.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150715-1379337.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618150814-13801684.jpeg)
That’s all for today, happy Friday!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150618152341-1382242.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on June 15, 2018, 07:01:10 PM
How about now, Laitch, any better? This was my first time wrapping.Definitely Macbethian. Too bad you had to cover the font. It looked like an original creation—old school, or maybe primary school. Traditionally, the pressure relief hole in the cap should be aimed at your thigh. You might need to test that.
Post by: Martin on June 15, 2018, 07:59:59 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on June 16, 2018, 02:08:47 PM
I performed the flasher relay PIN 7 snip modification and the signals worked perfectly.
https://youtu.be/hM5AFXJQTrQ (https://youtu.be/hM5AFXJQTrQ)
I have yet to wrap the grey RPM wire around (I believe) the number 1 cylinder spark plug lead. The speedo reading seemed to be delayed, the Acewell instructions give values to programme in for specific tyre diameters, mine measure 26” so I will programme this in.
The only gauge function that didn’t appear to be working was the backlight, I’m unsure why as I terminated B-Purple to BT Backlight check on the BEP- this may be incorrect?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160618135700-13841712.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160618135659-1383925.jpeg)
I have yet to figure out how to get the intigrated tail light/brake light with the 3 core cable to work as intended. I remember coming across a post regarding gutting of a relay and installing some jumper wires?
Post by: Latvietis on June 16, 2018, 02:31:18 PM
You didnt chop frame- because of legislation?
But it looks veru beatiful!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on June 16, 2018, 02:52:53 PM
It looks veeeery veeery nice! In my mind I have stolen few ideas! Good job mate!
You didnt chop frame- because of legislation?
But it looks veru beatiful!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks man. Haha, good thing not all ideas have been released to the World Wide Web yet!
No, it’s chopped, the rear frame is 140mm shorter. It’s further back in the thread.
Post by: rbm on June 16, 2018, 03:10:35 PM
P.S. The BEP 3.0 outputs engine RPM signal compatible with the Acewell on the RPM pin 24. Why would you go the route of wrapping a wire around the spark plug?
Post by: DJEwen on June 16, 2018, 03:32:43 PM
Good job. The backlight on your Acewell is operating in the video. What do you think you should see?
P.S. The BEP 3.0 outputs engine RPM signal compatible with the Acewell on the RPM pin 24. Why would you go the route of wrapping a wire around the spark plug?
Thanks, Robert. It is? I was expecting to see the dial lit up also?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160618152614-1385841.jpeg)
Ahh... OK. I have already terminated B-Yellow RPM on the Acewell to RPM on the BEP but I had read a thread some time ago on the K100 forum that the Grey should also be used, that may have been the 2.0 however.
What’s the normal connection point for the terminations to the BEP outputs? I merely stripped the sheaths and soldered the ends for some rigidity and inserted in their respective ports.
Post by: rbm on June 16, 2018, 04:00:46 PM
Yes, the grey wire idea applied to BEP 2.0, but was solved in BEP 3.0. It's better to use the BEP outputs for RPM and speed since they are properly conditioned.
Post by: DJEwen on June 16, 2018, 04:29:13 PM
Ah, that lack of dial illumination is not apparent on the video because of the high ambient light. Yes, I think there should be a backlight and I believe it is supplied from B-Red. Try to power the B-Red (switched 12V) and Brown (unswitched 12V) directly from the battery temporarily. If the backlight comes on, you have a wiring problem or a BEP 3.0 problem.
Yes, the grey wire idea applied to BEP 2.0, but was solved in BEP 3.0. It's better to use the BEP outputs for RPM and speed since they are properly conditioned.
I thought the light may have been giving false impressions.
I currently have B-Red terminated to SWP Switched Power in the BEP, is that not correct?
With respect to RPM outputs, that’s what I’ll do, I’ll let you know if I have any issues.
RBM, can you help me with the intograted rear light? I have three cables, ground, brake and tail. I understand there needs to be a jumper mod to a relay for function of switched brake light?
Post by: rbm on June 16, 2018, 04:36:04 PM
I thought the light may have been giving false impressions.Yes, that is correct according to Maru's instructions. I wan't doubting that. Just offering a means to eliminate components until you find the failure. What if there was a current limiting problem in the BEP? By connecting the gauge to the battery temporarily, you get clues where the problem may lie. If the gauge still fails to have a dial illumination after the move, the problem is in the gauge, not the BEP. If the backlight comes on, the problem is in the BEP or the wiring, not the gauge.
I currently have B-Red terminated to SWP Switched Power in the BEP, is that not correct?
With respect to RPM outputs, that’s what I’ll do, I’ll let you know if I have any issues.The BMU needs to be pypassed. Instructions are here: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/bmu/bmu.htm
RBM, can you help me with the intograted rear light? I have three cables, ground, brake and tail. I understand there needs to be a jumper mod to a relay for function of switched brake light?
Post by: DJEwen on June 16, 2018, 05:02:51 PM
Yes, that is correct according to Maru's instructions. I wan't doubting that. Just offering a means to eliminate components until you find the failure. What if there was a current limiting problem in the BEP? By connecting the gauge to the battery temporarily, you get clues where the problem may lie. If the gauge still fails to have a dial illumination after the move, the problem is in the gauge, not the BEP. If the backlight comes on, the problem is in the BEP or the wiring, not the gauge.
The BMU needs to be pypassed. Instructions are here: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/bmu/bmu.htm
Thanks Robert, no, for sure it’s great to eliminate. I hope I’m covered with a warrenty of sorts, I purchased both 3 months ago. Do you think it possible a back light bulb may have blown in the Acewell?
The BMU mod looks simple, I’ll get onto that next week. Thanks very much!
Post by: DJEwen on June 18, 2018, 04:37:02 PM
On a brighter note, I completed the BMU “gutting”. I see why they call it gutting, it is a savage mod. The same could be achieved jumping directly into the plug with spade terminals and cable but doing it within the original housing does give you the luxury of keeping the original cover.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180618162922-1389652.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180618162816-13881178.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180618162747-13861630.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/x8XHod4qPi8 (https://youtu.be/x8XHod4qPi8)
That concludes the major wiring of the build, everything is functioning as it should, with the exception of the BEP fault and I’ve yet to prove the repair of the fuel sender harness.
Tomorrow I’ll hopefully get the fuel pump reinstalled in the tank with new submersible hose and filter. I’ve got a gas can in the car to get a squirt of fuel on the way home.
Post by: Skunky on June 20, 2018, 07:26:58 PM
Tomorrow I’ll hopefully get the fuel pump reinstalled in the tank with new submersible hose and filter. I’ve got a gas can in the car to get a squirt of fuel on the way home.
Looking good Dave
Waiting for your first start video :popcorm
Post by: DJEwen on June 21, 2018, 04:47:40 PM
Looking good Dave
Waiting for your first start video :popcorm
Thanks, Man! Yeah, me too :popcorm
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 01:29:26 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220618132418-140839.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 01:31:12 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220618132531-1409536.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220618132613-1410132.jpeg)
Any thoughts?
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 01:33:47 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 01:54:52 PM
https://youtu.be/SNSefeg8n_g (https://youtu.be/SNSefeg8n_g)
https://youtu.be/yrYeL1DvgM4 (https://youtu.be/yrYeL1DvgM4)
FYI, I’ve alreay cleaned the jetrronic, 4 pin and the starter contacts prior to going for first start.
Post by: Martin on June 22, 2018, 02:10:09 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 02:12:57 PM
Do the basic checks. Can you hear the fuel pump? Check spark plugs are they wet or dry? Do you have spark at the plugs? Is it a good spark or is it weak? Do you have fuel? Do you have pressure at the rail?
Regards Martin.
Yes I can hear the pump.
Spark plugs are wet.
The plugs have strong spark.
I have 5L of fuel.
Pressure at the rail - unsure.
Post by: Martin on June 22, 2018, 03:04:01 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 03:32:27 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220618153123-14132220.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-220618153125-14141232.jpeg)
Fixed it, still no start.
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 03:34:43 PM
Pull the #6 fuse which supplies power to the fuel pump or alternatively disconnect the 4 pin connector to the pump. Try and start with the residual fuel that is in the combustion chamber. The engine should start, as the engine dies push the fuse back in or reconnect the 4 pin connector. A bit of throttle manipulation will be required to keep it running, it is easier with two people. If it does try to start try cleaning the connection to the temperature sensor in the stand pipe. If cleaning does not work test the values of the sensor.
Regards Martin.
Perfect, thanks Martin. I’ll go find a second pair of hands.
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 04:36:44 PM
Pull the #6 fuse which supplies power to the fuel pump or alternatively disconnect the 4 pin connector to the pump. Try and start with the residual fuel that is in the combustion chamber. The engine should start, as the engine dies push the fuse back in or reconnect the 4 pin connector. A bit of throttle manipulation will be required to keep it running, it is easier with two people. If it does try to start try cleaning the connection to the temperature sensor in the stand pipe. If cleaning does not work test the values of the sensor.
Regards Martin.
It didn’t work, Martin. No change at all.
Post by: Inge K. on June 22, 2018, 05:00:41 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 22, 2018, 05:11:27 PM
That doesn't look like a SAE 30R10 hose (submersible), is it?
Hi Inge. It was. It’s been changed out now though.
Post by: rbm on June 22, 2018, 07:07:04 PM
It's possible the plugs are fouled if they are excessively wet. Are they gapped properly?
Your video sounds like the fuelling is weak when the engine does catch.
Post by: DJEwen on June 23, 2018, 03:44:50 AM
Have you replaced the fuel filter as part of your refurbishment? If so, did you install it in the correct direction, with the arrow pointing in the direction of fuel flow?
It's possible the plugs are fouled if they are excessively wet. Are they gapped properly?
Your video sounds like the fuelling is weak when the engine does catch.
Hi Robert. I suspect a fuelling issue also. I did replace the filter, It has been installed flow directionally. The new Bosch plugs are gapped correctly, they may very well be fouled, #4 was exceccively wet and black/sooty looking. I’m going to reinstall the old NGKs this morning and see what happens.
Also my coil packs are wired up differently to what the Clymer details 2x runs of Black/Red on the #2/3 Bank. My harness has 2x runs of green yellow so were returned that way (as it was on the bike prior to strip down) I believe that diagram may be incorrect?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618034123-1415917.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618034158-14162317.jpeg)
Post by: Inge K. on June 23, 2018, 05:13:50 AM
#4 was exceccively wet and black/sooty looking.
Check Your FPR, disconnect the vacuum hose and see if comes fuel out.....then you need a new one.
My harness has 2x runs of green yellow so was returned that way (as it was on the bike prior to strip down) I believe that diagram may be incorrect?
The diagram is incorrect, you have it right wired.
Post by: Enfield on June 23, 2018, 06:07:14 AM
Not saying that you did the same... but I managed to buy a new fpr and ignition leads before I found out 🤥.
Regards
Chr
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Enfield on June 23, 2018, 06:15:10 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on June 23, 2018, 07:45:58 AM
Put the plugs back in, fuel rail back on, tank down and went for start. It appears the ICU going from bike to shelve for three months then back to bike decided it would break.
https://youtu.be/SI4kKZnu5r0 (https://youtu.be/SI4kKZnu5r0)
https://youtu.be/rSg0Qbv3TjY (https://youtu.be/rSg0Qbv3TjY)
She ran perfectly for 10 minutes, I was waiting for the fan to kick in and she suddenly cut out. Now she won’t re-start.
Post by: Laitch on June 23, 2018, 09:16:35 AM
She ran perfectly for 10 minutes, I was waiting for the fan to kick in and she suddenly cut out. Now she won’t re-start.This will remedied by the discovery of a minor glitch—poor or miss-routed wire connection, ignition switch, kill switch, FPR problem if you haven't checked that, fuel hose, something simple, no doubt.
Do you have an OE pump or a Sino-substitute? How is it mounted? I haven't reviewed this epic thread to find out.
What I'm here to say though, is that your two-tone treatment of the tank with the lower blacked-out to align with the frame was a brilliant idea! :2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on June 23, 2018, 12:21:01 PM
This will remedied by the discovery of a minor glitch—poor or miss-routed wire connection, ignition switch, kill switch, FPR problem if you haven't checked that, fuel hose, something simple, no doubt.
Do you have an OE pump or a Sino-substitute? How is it mounted? I haven't reviewed this epic thread to find out.
What I'm here to say though, is that your two-tone treatment of the tank with the lower blacked-out to align with the frame was a brilliant idea! :2thumbup:
I hope so, it’s strange, she was sitting idiling away on the lift quite happy then just cut out. What’s your best guess?
Pump is OE, mounted in its cradle as intended.
I really appreciate that, I’m glad you like it. It was a shower thought one morning, trialed a few mock-ups on the computer but really didn’t know how it was going to turn out.
Post by: DJEwen on June 23, 2018, 12:29:16 PM
I have a few teething issues to sort, as you all know but here’s some iPhone shots for the moment. DSLR images will follow in time.
Hope you all like.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122218-14172451.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122326-1419178.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122327-1419988.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122236-14181905.jpeg)
Post by: Enfield on June 24, 2018, 02:09:47 PM
To those of you who are anti Brick chopping, I hope you think I gave the bike a classic enough look, something I think these old girls warrant.Damn it looks Good [emoji1303]
I have a few teething issues to sort, as you all know but here’s some iPhone shots for the moment. DSLR images will follow in time.
Hope you all like.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122218-14172451.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122326-1419178.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122327-1419988.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-230618122236-14181905.jpeg)
Some cool details .
Regards
Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on June 24, 2018, 02:34:47 PM
Damn it looks Good [emoji1303]
Some cool details .
Regards
Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Christian. My friends are calling it a “Polished Turd”.
Post by: Laitch on June 25, 2018, 07:49:36 AM
Swapped the Ignition Control Unit, turned over and got injection at numbers 2, 3 & 4 but not 1. Swapped it out for another, turned over and all 4 were discharging.Thoroughly clean the ignition control unit plug then be certain it fits the unit snugly. There might even be a faulty wire in that plug's harness.
She ran perfectly for 10 minutes, I was waiting for the fan to kick in and she suddenly cut out. Now she won’t re-start.I hope so, it’s strange, she was sitting idiling away on the lift quite happy then just cut out. What’s your best guess?
Post by: DJEwen on June 25, 2018, 08:18:35 AM
Thoroughly clean the ignition control unit plug then be certain it fits the unit snugly. There might even be a faulty wire in that plug's harness.
Laitch, that's probably very accurate, likely not coincidental that the bike ran after swapping the ICU's units over - the issue is likely within the plug/harness as you say. Historically, how robust are the ignition control units themselves?
Post by: Laitch on June 25, 2018, 08:38:23 AM
Laitch, that's probably very accurate, likely not coincidental that the bike ran after swapping the ICU's units over - the issue is likely within the plug/harness as you say. Historically, how robust are the ignition control units themselves?I've read a few of times about failure of a unit. They're likely sturdy units but abandonment to the elements without consistent usage might open the door to their failure. A faulty ground connection is my next choice. A bike starts up, runs then heat and vibration break the connection sooner or later.
I referred to the fuel pump mounting because if a pump slips downward far enough in its mount to hit bottom, fuel flow through the basket style pre-filter can be sufficiently constricted to cause a stall. My experience was with an intermittent stall condition that was eliminated when the pump was raised sufficiently and secured.
Post by: DJEwen on June 25, 2018, 05:02:53 PM
I've read a few of times about failure of a unit. They're likely sturdy units but abandonment to the elements without consistent usage might open the door to their failure. A faulty ground connection is my next choice. A bike starts up, runs then heat and vibration break the connection sooner or later.
I referred to the fuel pump mounting because if a pump slips downward far enough in its mount to hit bottom, fuel flow through the basket style pre-filter can be sufficiently constricted to cause a stall. My experience was with an intermittent stall condition that was eliminated when the pump was raised sufficiently and secured.
I clinically went through all connections during the refurb and inspection of the loom, I re-soldered all that I could. Additionally I ran an extra 1mm earth from the frame earth point to battery and onto gearbox to counter-act the powdercoat.
I found a leak in my tank! :( It was in the right hand side upper part of the ‘step’ seam. It took a long time to migrate through and has blistered the paint badly overnight. I’ve siohoned the fuel, removed the tank, stripped the pump components, ordered a full seal kit and left it to evaporate off the residuals. Grrrrr.
With the MOT this Friday I had to progress the fault finding. I Jerry rigged the pump into a bucket, I made a rest out of some of the spare mesh I had from the radiator mod, this lifted it off the bottom, I then routed it in and added some juice. I pulled the plug from the Ignition Control Unit in the head and attached the old ICU and went for start whilst twisting the connection into different positions during start- this identified the plug as the problem as you suggested, Laitch! Well done! Twisting position dictated fire/no fire.
I heavily dosed both male and female connection to the ICUs with electrical cleaner and vigorously cleaned with a paint brush, left them to dry then repeated the process.
Once dry for a second time I plugged back in as standard position and started. The bike ran with no issues- she heated to 80c and the fan kicked in and out as needed repeatedly. All seemed good. I ran her up through all the gears, no complaints, a happy Brick.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250618165517-1425376.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/DzUGovBCeN0 (https://youtu.be/DzUGovBCeN0)
There is some tuning to do with the Acewell, considering the instructions are in English, they are as difficult to make sense of as the old German BEP instructions. The rev counter/speedo is all over the shop when I rev etc etc. Unsure if this is potentially all related to the known BEP fault. I have been informed I need to purchase a new BEP and return the old and apparently they will refund me for the backlight issue.
I have 3 days left for the sealer to arrive. Repair (hopefully touch up the paint) and ride her to the inspection (MOT)
This forum, as usual, saves the day. Click the brick, please.
In regards to a bottomed our fuel pump, Laitch. I’ll look at this. Great idea to lift it slightly! Will take some measurements tomorrow.
Post by: Laitch on June 25, 2018, 07:18:24 PM
Post by: Enfield on June 25, 2018, 11:15:44 PM
See if you Can borrow a tank or camouflage the leak for inspection... the sealing kits I know of needs to cure for quite a while!!
Regards
Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Skunky on June 26, 2018, 04:48:43 AM
By the way love the little leather clutchbag on the side.
Post by: Skunky on June 26, 2018, 05:04:46 AM
There is some tuning to do with the Acewell, considering the instructions are in English, they are as difficult to make sense of as the old German BEP instructions. The rev counter/speedo is all over the shop when I rev etc etc. Unsure if this is potentially all related to the known BEP fault. I have been informed I need to purchase a new BEP and return the old and apparently they will refund me for the backlight issue.
Dave, With regard to the needle situation you may need to put a conditioning circuit on the RPM output to smooth down the signal. Rbm helped with this thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11148.msg96987.html#msg96987
Post by: DJEwen on June 26, 2018, 03:56:14 PM
I think it's too early for a happy-dance until it pounds the pavement without stalling, but a dram of Laphroaig or half a Glenn mango drizzled with lime juice would be appropriate right now, over here anyway. :yes
WERD. I’m desperately trying to get there, Laitch. Sláinte Mhath
Arrhh I feel your frustation about the leaking tank. Had mine welded and checked with water for leaks, then spend most of a week painting, sanding up to Grit 4000 and finally 2 component clear coat - it really looked Good!! Then after 3 days it developed a leak in lower left side [emoji25]! I Got another tank and had a Pro paint it for 200€... looked better than my week of work!
See if you Can borrow a tank or camouflage the leak for inspection... the sealing kits I know of needs to cure for quite a while!!
Regards
Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ahh... damnit! I’ve just treated the tank with the POR15 sealant... the can says, wait for it, a whole 96 hours drying time.... there are 61 hours until inspection. I’m surprised it’s so long, it took about 9.6 seconds to dry to my skin and now I can’t even get it off with paint thinners and a knife. I suspect a lot of that stated drying time is likely belt and braces to account for excess build up in dead legs and crevices for those customers who may be a little lax on the draining step. I have spent a good hour draining, freeing dead legs and siphoning the excess. The tank is now in my airing cupboard drying in the warmth. I’ll rotate it every hour.
Could use a stroke of luck, reckon If I fell into a barrel of boobs i’d come out sucking my own thumb right now.
I have another tank but it’s a mess inside, I wouldn't want to risk running those internals through the injectors. Will see what happens with the sealant over the next 48hrs
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-260618151647-14281300.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-260618151636-14272048.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-260618151634-1426440.jpeg)
Hi Dave - Really looking good. Unfortunately K's don't seem to like sitting idle. Once you get through these teething stages it should get better. Guantanamo Bay Overalls! :hehehe. When the bike was running it sounds great. I'm having similar issues with mine. It's running OK then a bit rough, then Ok again. I think it just needs a good run to get everything working properly.
By the way love the little leather clutchbag on the side.
Aye, I’m sure it will. To be honest, in a strangely frustrating way I’m kind of enjoying it, I’m learing more and more how to massage this delicate beast. The most annoying part is not being able to just walk away from it as I have nothing else to ride.
Glad you like the clutch, I stole it from the long haired generals wardrobe.
Dave, With regard to the needle situation you may need to put a conditioning circuit on the RPM output to smooth down the signal. Rbm helped with this thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11148.msg96987.html#msg96987
Ahhhh.... I wasn’t sure I needed one. OK, I’ll go study that thread with my new found 96 million years of tank sealant drying time free time I have.
On a positive note, the fuel line quick releases arrived today and the build quality is top notch.
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 04:32:40 PM
Ahh... damnit! I’ve just treated the tank with the POR15 sealant... the can says, wait for it, a whole 96 hours drying time.... there are 61 hours until inspection. . . . The most annoying part is not being able to just walk away from it as I have nothing else to ride.This is as exciting as it gets in Scotland since the Reivers were quelled. :giggles
Ahhhh.... I wasn’t sure I needed one. OK, I’ll go study that thread with my new found 96 million years of tank sealant drying time free time I have.
Post by: Skunky on June 26, 2018, 04:53:46 PM
Quote from: Laitch link=topic=10875.msg99 :boxing: :boxing:211#msg99211 date=1530045160
This is as exciting as it gets in Scotland since the Reivers were quelled. :giggles
[/quxote]
Laitch If you think they were quelled you haven't been out in Glasgow on a Saturday night :boxing:
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 06:52:21 PM
If you think they were quelled you haven't been out in Glasgow on a Saturday night :boxing:I'll take your word for it, Skunky. I've run out of slots on my bucket list.
Post by: DJEwen on June 27, 2018, 07:38:03 AM
Ah, that lack of dial illumination is not apparent on the video because of the high ambient light. Yes, I think there should be a backlight and I believe it is supplied from B-Red. Try to power the B-Red (switched 12V) and Brown (unswitched 12V) directly from the battery temporarily. If the backlight comes on, you have a wiring problem or a BEP 3.0 problem.
Yes, the grey wire idea applied to BEP 2.0, but was solved in BEP 3.0. It's better to use the BEP outputs for RPM and speed since they are properly conditioned.
RBM - The error is my own. I have been terminating B Purple (Acewell backlight) to BT Backlight Check on the BEP - This is in fact that, the back light check function and not a backlight output. This does leave no specific port for the backlight. I imagine the fix for this would be to twin terminate to SWP Switched power on the BEP along with B Red Switch Key from the Acewell, this would give illumination when the ignition is in the on position I suspect?
In regards to the properly conditioned rpm and speed circuits, the Acewell appears to be reading road speed correctly as the rear wheel rotates while the bike is on the centre lift however when opening the throttle the speedo needle erotically paces the Acewell has an option to read either or Speed or RPM in the analogue or digital displays and vice versa - this is likely a function I need to determine myself within the Acewell settings.
Post by: DJEwen on June 28, 2018, 04:59:09 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-280618164610-14322278.jpeg)
All seemed well, until I stopped, put her on the side stand and discovered oil all over the rear wheel. Yep. That’ll be an MOT fail. The final drive was the only part I never split for paint/powdercoat due to fear of shims etc (I know that’s a debate) I had the painters paint it as a complete unit. The output seal on the final drive is finished. Probably explains why there was masking tape labelled “no oil” on the FD when the bike was purchased. Yes, yes.... schoolboy error... the only seal I didn’t replace was the one that leaked.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-280618164602-1429298.jpeg)
I’ll postpone the MOT by a week, a new seal has just been ordered.....
Close, but no cigar today, folks.
Post by: Skunky on June 28, 2018, 07:22:50 PM
Post by: Laitch on June 28, 2018, 07:52:14 PM
I’ll postpone the MOT by a week, a new seal has just been ordered.....You're resourceful, DJ, but you might not have seen this (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5697-how-to-check-and-replace-the-final-drive-crown-wheel-bearing-and-seal) yet.
Post by: DJEwen on June 30, 2018, 05:40:00 AM
Never mind mate. I think you'll still beat me to the finish. Looking Damon fine too.
Yeah, I’m not getting too upset about it. I hadn’t realised we were racing, Skunky! Thanks, she’s scrubbed up alright!
You're resourceful, DJ, but you might not have seen this (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5697-how-to-check-and-replace-the-final-drive-crown-wheel-bearing-and-seal) yet.
Studied start to finish, Laitch.
This wasn’t supposed to arrive until Monday but look what just landed on my door mat:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618053747-14332241.jpeg)
[Grabs garage keys]
Post by: DJEwen on June 30, 2018, 01:01:39 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124436-1437568.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124340-1436790.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124231-14341159.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124309-14351693.jpeg)
I cleaned up the corrosion as best I could on the abrasive wheel and finished with wire wool. There is some pitting left behind.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124517-1438532.jpeg)
Installed he new output seal along with a new case o-ring. Torqued up, went for a road test, no leaks.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618125116-1443772.jpeg)
Now it’s MOT ready....
Post by: DJEwen on June 30, 2018, 01:10:05 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124855-14411697.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-300618124921-14421760.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 01, 2018, 09:23:07 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-010718092203-14441833.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on July 01, 2018, 09:59:20 AM
First Bath.First comment after first bath—Does anybody know why I can't start my bike? :giggles Not in this case, of course. :yes
Post by: DJEwen on July 01, 2018, 10:01:33 AM
First comment after first bath—Does anybody know why I can't start my bike? :giggles Not in this case, of course. :yes
I was scared to put the hose anywhere near it. Fortunately, she still lives :D
Post by: oneplustwo on July 01, 2018, 12:07:33 PM
Any tips otherwise? I assume you removed all the components from inside. How did you seal off the outlets?
Post by: DJEwen on July 01, 2018, 01:12:04 PM
Nope, not one of them, I think they’re all a gimmick, however though, I guess it depends on the internal condition of your tank. My tank was immaculate which made it surprising that it failed in the first place.
I drained my tank, pulled all components and left it out in the sun to evaporate off the fuel remains.
I then disconnected the return fitting, it’s advisable to purchase a new o-ring for this. Cut a strip of rag and pressed it up through the hole in the return stanchion using a 90 degree pick to ensure the sealant never leaked through.
Put some electrical tape over the end of the outlet pipe within the tank where the fuel pump/filter discharge connects to.
I bought a full pint of the POR. Pour the lot in, rotate the tank about. I plugged the top inlet fill hole with newspaper and rotated it upside down etc etc, made sure I had full coverage- spend time doing this.
Then I drained what I could via the early 85 sender port, rotated different positions to drain all dead legs and trapped areas, up ended the tank and siphoned the excess after allowing it 30min to run off using a cheap eBay fuel siphon and a turkey baster. I then rotated it the other way and put it in my airing cupboard overnight. Spend time draining properly.
Make sure to pull the slither of rag you stuffed in the return port stanchion hole before leaving it to dry, if it goes off with the rag in there, you’ll not get it out once it’s hardended.
The can said 96hrs drying time, I suspect this was to cover customers who didn’t drain properly. The following morning it was dry but I gave it 48hrs for good measure and it’s working a treat now.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 01, 2018, 01:20:06 PM
Separate question for you... did you fabricate the license plate holder yourself or is that a purchased item? I'm planning something similar. Any details would be welcome!
Post by: DJEwen on July 01, 2018, 01:32:48 PM
Excellent, super helpful! I'm debating whether or not to go through the effort since my tank seems to be fine. I'm also planning a brushed aluminum finish so no paint to worry about if I absolutely need to do it later. But perhaps better to just take care of it while it's apart and drained and such.
Separate question for you... did you fabricate the license plate holder yourself or is that a purchased item? I'm planning something similar. Any details would be welcome!
Don Eilenbergers Law #7: Most things work until they break. Then they’re broken.
If you’re going though a strip down, I’d do it. If it’s for assurance, wait until you need to.
Licence plate holder was initially found on cafe4racer for €54 euros. I pulled the image, done an reverse image search on google (as I do with nearly everything, which has saved me over £1000 on this build BTW) found their supplier and got it delivered for £8.50. I threw the bolts and had the plate frame welded to the bracket for flushness then sent it to the powder coaters with everything else. :2thumbup:
Post by: Latvietis on July 01, 2018, 01:50:19 PM
I’ll ask you about it later!
By the way.. your beautiful job may affect my future build that is how beautiful it looks!
Cheers!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DJEwen on July 01, 2018, 02:57:58 PM
All functions except RPM and Speedo are working correctly on the Acewell CA85.
Again, this is by far a strong point of mine. I understand the BEP 3.0 and Acewell are supposed to be “conditioned” for both functions to work correctly.
Speedo: My understanding is the Acewell CA85 can optionally do either Speedo or RPM via the analogue dial. I believe it’s currently set to speedo. When running the bike up through the gears it appears to be reading a really high speed. The diameter of the rear wheel and tyre is 26” giving a rotational circumference of 2075 per single rotation. I punched this value into the Acewell computer (as per instruction) but the speed is still miles off, see attached video. The bike is off-the-clock rotating in 3rd gear while on the lift. Does this need some form of additional circuit?
RPM: I can’t make heads or tails of the Acewell instructions, they aren’t bad but grammatically quite confusing.
When moving through the mode menu there is no RPM setting. I’m struggling to understand if the Acewell is saying the Trip 2 setting can be switched to RPM and then set? Does anyone have any experience of this? I read a few times on another forum that the Grey wire (for wrapping round spark plug lead) should be terminated to the BEP RPM instead of the yellow, but this was supposed to be conditioned?
Below are the Acewell instructions for the CA85 and a short video of the issue.
Thanks in advance,
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-010718141353-14451381.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-010718141353-14451442.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/8V3usmxE9wo
Post by: DJEwen on July 02, 2018, 01:21:20 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-020718125756-14481000.jpeg)
She’s also now sporting a classic pressed black numberplate.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-020718125706-14471142.jpeg)
A couple of issues I’ve noticed whilst riding to/from work:
- Twice whilst selecting neutral at the lights I could then no longer get first to move off without shutting down and re-starting (I used to get this all the time on the KTM, I’m probably too rough).
- The speedo and rev counter are useless, I’d really appreciate some help here in terms of the requirement for a conditioning unit or not and which pick-up values if any should be used.
- I’m now getting a neutral light in 1st, Neutral, 2nd & 3rd, I suspect this is since washing the Bike yesterday :dunno2: I did seal the TGPI unit itself but didn’t seal it to the gearbox so water could have got in there or potentially the plug connector?
- The suicide stand is infuriating, I need to mod this! I understand the logic in this but still, terrible idea.
Post by: Laitch on July 02, 2018, 04:58:10 PM
She passed the MOT with zero advisory’s. :yes:clap:
She’s also now sporting a classic pressed black numberplate.
Post by: rbm on July 02, 2018, 07:35:55 PM
She passed the MOT with zero advisory’s. :yesCongratulations.
She’s also now sporting a classic pressed black numberplate.
- The speedo and rev counter are useless, I’d really appreciate some help here in terms of the requirement for a conditioning unit or not and which pick-up values if any should be used.Did you get a replacement BEP 3.0 and install it??
- I’m now getting a neutral light in 1st, Neutral, 2nd & 3rd, I suspect this is since washing the Bike yesterday :dunno2: I did seal the TGPI unit itself but didn’t seal it to the gearbox so water could have got in there or potentially the plug connector?Yes, sounds like the TGPI switch got wet. It should sort itself out in a few days once it gets dry. What's happening is that all the contacts are being shorted together to ground in all gears.
Post by: Martin on July 02, 2018, 07:41:53 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on July 03, 2018, 06:58:12 AM
Congratulations.
Did you get a replacement BEP 3.0 and install it??
Yes, sounds like the TGPI switch got wet. It should sort itself out in a few days once it gets dry. What's happening is that all the contacts are being shorted together to ground in all gears.
I now have the replacement BEP 3.0 but have yet to install it, you will see from post #179 that I believe the backlight issue was caused my choice of termination point. The main issue now is the really erratic speedo, the speedo reads over 120mph when I'm doing circa 30mph, this is naturally clocking up a lot of miles too.
I thought that may be the case with the TGPI, I look forward to it drying, I had a schoolboy error yesterday and nearly dropped the bike.
When you say suicide stand, I am presuming you mean the stand retracts when weight is taken off it. OEM has a couple of good solutions if you revert to OEM if that is still possible.
Regards Martin.
Correct, as OEM intention. I'm going to perform the reverse spring leg mod to stop this form happening. That's a good shout with respect to other OEM options. My parts bike still has the clutch lever retract mounting, I may look to install this.
Post by: Laitch on July 03, 2018, 07:58:30 AM
My parts bike still has the clutch lever retract mounting, I may look to install this.I recommend that option. It can be set to retract with varying degrees of lever pressure but I use it as a reminder to kick up the stand—if I haven't done that already—when the lever meets first resistance. It's a useful safety feature considering I've read comments from competent riders describing how they have been hospitalized after driving off with the side stand down.
The complaint with that feature is that if an alcohol-impaired Reiver climbs onto your bike to play make-believe, pulls in the clutch and goes vroom-vroom (or the Scottish equivalent) then dismounts, the bike will go down because the side stand is up.
Post by: DJEwen on July 03, 2018, 03:19:15 PM
I recommend that option. It can be set to retract with varying degrees of lever pressure but I use it as a reminder to kick up the stand—if I haven't done that already—when the lever meets first resistance. It's a useful safety feature considering I've read comments from competent riders describing how they have been hospitalized after driving off with the side stand down.
The complaint with that feature is that if an alcohol-impaired Reiver climbs onto your bike to play make-believe, pulls in the clutch and goes vroom-vroom (or the Scottish equivalent) then dismounts, the bike will go down because the side stand is up.
So suicide stand or clutch retraction, neither combat drunken “see you Jimmy’s”. Think I’ll do the non suicide mod to the side stand first, see how that goes.
Thanks to some off thread assistance from RBM, the Speedo is now synchronised with the bike and readings are balanced with GPS after final drive pulse counts were set to six per rear wheel rotation and a circumference value of 2075mm entered. The rev counter, however, still needs work.
I just rode her on a 40 mile country road trip and had zero complaints. Coolant levels are now also completely stable.
What a machine :riding:
Post by: Skunky on July 04, 2018, 02:20:44 AM
Post by: DJEwen on July 05, 2018, 02:40:34 AM
Congrats Dave - Looking good.
:beer:
Post by: DJEwen on July 05, 2018, 02:50:23 AM
I was out for a ride with a neighbour last night, he has the Motogadget M Blaze Pin indicators which came on his Bonny when he bough it, my retinas are still burning from the beam of blinding light that comes off those tiny, tiny little things.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050718022732-14521476.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-050718022719-1449131.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on July 05, 2018, 04:43:25 AM
I like the Ryde unit discrete rubber mounted flasher very bright and with real glass lens instead of plastic.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RYDE-2-PAIRS-FRONT-REAR-LED-MINI-EYE-BLACK-CLEAR-LENS-MOTORBIKE-INDICATORS/350669750659?epid=1149377333&hash=item51a58bc183:g:CTQAAOSwCQNWhBwv
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Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2018, 05:03:14 AM
I was out for a ride with a neighbour last night . . .The MOT accepts having a registration number painted on the moto's seat? What will happen to the well-being of registration plate manufacturing if that's the case? These numbers don't need lighting?
Post by: Skunky on July 05, 2018, 05:51:14 AM
The MOT accepts having a registration number painted on the moto's seat? What will happen to the well-being of registration plate manufacturing if that's the case? These numbers don't need lighting?
:hehehe No it doesn't Laitch . What we have here is a modified bike. Modified after the MOT. It's perfectly possible (if not legal) to make changes once you have passed your test. Or it may be that the Bonneville is a 2016 and has not had its first test yet (which comes when 3 years old).
In fact DJ Ewen is keeping his nice yellow legal number plate with reflector in his garage ready for next years MOT. The worst that will happen is a wrist slap from the Police should they wish to.
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2018, 05:58:07 AM
What we have here is a modified bike. Modified after the MOT. It's perfectly possible (if not legal) to make changes once you have passed your test. Or it may be that the Bonneville is a 2016 and has not had its first test yet (which comes when 3 years old).Is the first test when they check it with the machine that goes BING?
Post by: Skunky on July 05, 2018, 06:09:44 AM
Saw this and thought of you
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-Motogadget-LED-M-Blaze-Pin-Indicator-Turn-Signal-Pair-Black-Mini/332705362065?hash=item4d76c8f091:g:akgAAOSw7e5bOP7q
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 01:11:19 PM
In fact DJ Ewen is keeping his nice yellow legal number plate with reflector in his garage ready for next years MOT.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-080718130104-1453205.jpeg)
Is the first test when they check it with the machine that goes BING?
Bing, Bong actually.
Dave
Saw this and thought of you
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-Motogadget-LED-M-Blaze-Pin-Indicator-Turn-Signal-Pair-Black-Mini/332705362065?hash=item4d76c8f091:g:akgAAOSw7e5bOP7q
You’re some man! I won them at £124, that’s just over £20 saving so not too shabby. Thanks, Skunky!
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 01:12:28 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-080718130224-1454969.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 02:15:37 PM
greetings...
those are known leakers... gonna have to go oem on the fork seals...
its also recommended to replace the upper and lower fork bushings when you replace the seals...
j o
Damn it... may leave it until the winter.
as little as that thing is gonna be ridden proally last time you will have to getts in there... with the addition of fork protectors and exempting annual suspension fluid changes of course...
It’s a daily actually, Jo. She’s done 400+ Miles this week.
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2018, 02:19:05 PM
My brand new fork seals are leaking . . . They’re not OEM they’re Pyramid PartsYours is an outcome oft told around the campfire during S'more/haggis roasts since time immemorial, DJ.those are known leakers... gonna have to go oem on the fork seals...
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2018, 02:24:01 PM
Damn it... may leave it until the winter.What might happen—and has in my experience—is the seals release a load of fork oil that contaminates the brake calipers by attracting abrasive road grit and then wash the grease out of one or both of the wheel bearings. The eventual, distant rumble of the bearings can be stimulating though.
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 02:55:54 PM
What might happen—and has in my experience—is the seals release a load of fork oil that contaminates the brake calipers by attracting abrasive road grit and then wash the grease out of one or both of the wheel bearings. The eventual, distant rumble of the bearings can be stimulating though.
Alright, alright... [goes and orders new OEM fork seals after leaving an adequate review of that cheap Japanese shit I’ve currently got in my fork legs]
Post by: Martin on July 08, 2018, 03:04:35 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 03:11:06 PM
Once you've installed the correct seals there are three ways to extend their life. 1/ Fit fork gaiters (boots) 2/ Fill under the dust seals with silicone grease and change the grease every 1-2 years depending on how dusty yours roads are. 3/ Use Jo's method and wipe the seals with ATF fluid occasionally.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin.
I do still have the gaitors, visiually I didn’t think they worked with the style of the build so went for the dust covers instead... may trial fit them during the seal change.
Thanks for all the tips.
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 03:12:32 PM
Post by: Martin on July 08, 2018, 03:42:37 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2018, 04:08:46 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 08, 2018, 05:02:45 PM
greetings...
are those the queens (248) miles or merican (400) miles...
j o
Same, same. 400 Mercian Miles :riding:
Post by: Filmcamera on July 08, 2018, 06:52:54 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 09, 2018, 05:57:22 AM
If you don't want to fit gaiters, try method 2 or 3. After doing a set of seals about 18 years ago I've been running thick silicone grease under my dust covers and changing it every one to two years. I've been using Dow Corning grease ($50.00Au) left over from doing my fluid block. Recently I found another nearly as thick silicone grease made by Hershells a South African company. In Oz Super Cheap Automotive store sell it for around $8.00 Au a tube. Another thing to do to maintain seals is either make or buy a Seal Mate. As per Jo's post I made one out of a plastic soft drink (soda) bottle. You occasionally run the seal mate around your seals and it removes all the crud and crap. The silicone grease has also proved effective at stopping the crap from getting to my seals, but the seal mate did stop a mates bikes seals from leaking. Another use for the silicone grease is to fill under your brake master cylinder boots. It will stop the ingress of water and crud extending the life of the cylinders.
Regards Martin.
Some top tips there, Martin. Thanks very much.
The Vaders head out for a night on the town. :2thumbup: First stop—the dry cleaner's to pick up the capes.
Haha! I'm going to switch back to the clear visor, the tinted one is alright but no use if you're caught in the dark, the flip down glasses on the passengers modular helmet are much better.
Great bike, really nice build and glad do see it getting ridden - 400 Scottish miles are hard miles!
Thanks, Filmcamera. Thanks to global warming they've been 400 warm miles which is unusual for a Scottish summer :blackcloud:
Post by: Laitch on July 09, 2018, 06:40:23 AM
Thanks to global warming they've been 400 warm miles . . .Is that a greenhouse gas complaint I hear coming from the North Sea oil region, or jubilation? :giggles Anyway, I hope you ride thousands of comfortable miles—be they steeped in appropriate soddeness or bathed in foreboding balminess—on that non-pareil example of semi-queered–out mobility.
:2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on July 09, 2018, 09:42:46 AM
Is that a greenhouse gas complaint I hear coming from the North Sea oil region, or jubilation? :giggles Anyway, I hope you ride thousands of comfortable miles—be they steeped in appropriate soddeness or bathed in foreboding balminess—on that non-pareil example of semi-queered–out mobility.
:2thumbup:
A word smith as always, Laich. Jubilation of course, I doubt my current vehicle collection allows me greenhouse gas complaint :giggles
There's an event this weekend, I'm going to enter the brick in the show, the prizes are silver Quaich's, hopefully filled, these are some of the category's:
-Best Bike in Show
-Best Classic
-Best Non-British
-Best Alternative
-Best Paint
-Best Engineering
-Best Bike voted by Public
Post by: DJEwen on July 10, 2018, 03:34:01 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-100718152827-1463440.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-100718152935-14651089.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-100718152839-1464212.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2018, 04:14:15 PM
This is my attempt at rectifying the damage caused to the RHS seam where the tank leaked. Fingers crossed it comes out alright.Is this another way of saying that the coating of the tank's interior didn't work?
Post by: DJEwen on July 10, 2018, 04:26:07 PM
Is this another way of saying that the coating of the tank's interior didn't work?
No, no. The coating on the tank worked perfectly.
The tank didn’t leak before it went for paint, didn’t leak once immediately filled afterwards, or four hours later. It wasn’t until the following day that I realised fuel had migrated through overnight and had removed the paint in the RHS step. That was what prompted the POR15 repair, which worked perfectly, I’m only now rectifying the paint damage.
Post by: DJEwen on July 10, 2018, 04:26:47 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-100718163708-14661071.jpeg)
Will be selling this shortly.
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2018, 04:36:47 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 10, 2018, 04:42:44 PM
I'm glad to hear that the product worked well. Tank leaks can strike any of us, regardless of political affiliation or handedness.
Thanks, Laitch. I wish I had just done it as a matter of course in the first place. Should I ever build another, this will form part of the process regardless of tank condition.
Lessons learned.
Post by: DJEwen on July 11, 2018, 03:38:12 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-110718153304-1467460.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-110718153359-14701861.jpeg)
Got a shock at how dirty the oil seems already. I’m 602 miles in now. Like any internal combustion engine I suspect this is normal?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-110718153346-14691894.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on July 12, 2018, 12:18:02 PM
Got a shock at how dirty the oil seems already. I’m 602 miles in now. Like any internal combustion engine I suspect this is normal?
That's what you get for changing the sight glass. The rest of us can blame fogged up glass for the dirty looking oil. :hehehe. Anyway that looks reasonably clean to me. When its black its dirty.
Post by: alabrew on July 12, 2018, 12:57:03 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 12, 2018, 03:36:21 PM
That's what you get for changing the sight glass
No half jobs here :neener:
Anyway that looks reasonably clean to me. When its black its dirty.
Sweet :2thumbup:
And you can't get all the dirty oil out so it mixes with the new.
Plays havoc with my OCD :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on July 12, 2018, 03:44:02 PM
OLD
https://youtu.be/2Ygb5IckuE0 (https://youtu.be/2Ygb5IckuE0)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-120718153212-14711136.jpeg)
NEW
https://youtu.be/tBbEIUyX5dg (https://youtu.be/tBbEIUyX5dg)
The eagle eyed of you will have noticed my tail light is smashed :( Design flaw on my part. Strangely I hadn’t considered it being ravaged by stones off the back tyre... anyway, new one is on order and I’ve marked out a deflection plate in some 1mm steel which I’ll spray black and install with the new unit, should be unnoticeable. Luckily the actual LEDs are red and not just a red lense so I’m safe for the moment.
Really happy with the turn signals.
Post by: Skunky on July 12, 2018, 04:14:53 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 12, 2018, 04:56:46 PM
Sharp, bright and looking good. :clap:. Will you get your new back light before the show this weekend.
Thanks to you, Skunky!!
Unfortunately not, it won’t arrive until Tue/Wed. Not going to win any prizes for a smashed tail light but there’s always next time.
Post by: DJEwen on July 13, 2018, 04:28:36 PM
I went out to ride her to the gas station for a top-up ahead of the run to the event tomorrow. No start, no start, no start.
Pulled the tank 4 pin, cleaned, dried, no start. Pulled the FICU plug, cleaned, dried, no start. Tank off, 4 pin, no start, ICU clean, dry, no start. :dunno2: Pulled the FICU plug again, cleaned, dried and she started on full choke but when given any throttle, died. This went on for about 5 minutes until she was a little warmer but then would not stay running unless the throttle was open even on full choke.
I let her die, threw on my helmet, jumped on started and rode off. Once the bike was up to temp I closed the choke. First set of lights she died but then restarted off choke and idled fine. This was a hit or miss for the next 10 junctions/lights, the ride between each set of lights was a mixture of no issue or a miss firing feeling as if running out of fuel, very spluttey, feeling starved.
Got fuel but then half a mile from home she died at the side of the road. I restarted her and no complaints, rode home, pulled up to the garage and she died.
What do you guys think? Fuel Pump, injectors, FPR, electrical. Potentially the pump is too far down in the holder as Laitch once experienced. FYI the filter is new and the bike was running perfectly when parked-up on Monday.
It’s worth noting also, I changed the fuel sender on Monday when I painted the tank seam... could this be a problematic 4 pin?
I have a video here, the bike is at temp and maintaining an idle now albeit erratic:
https://youtu.be/JkBvMvwraAc (https://youtu.be/JkBvMvwraAc)
Post by: DJEwen on July 13, 2018, 05:53:08 PM
I didn’t ride her for three days and now she’s angry.
I went out to ride her to the gas station for a top-up ahead of the run to the event tomorrow. No start, no start, no start.
Pulled the tank 4 pin, cleaned, dried, no start. Pulled the FICU plug, cleaned, dried, no start. Tank off, 4 pin, no start, ICU clean, dry, no start. :dunno2: Pulled the FICU plug again, cleaned, dried and she started on full choke but when given any throttle, died. This went on for about 5 minutes until she was a little warmer but then would not stay running unless the throttle was open even on full choke.
I let her die, threw on my helmet, jumped on started and rode off. Once the bike was up to temp I closed the choke. First set of lights she died but then restarted off choke and idled fine. This was a hit or miss for the next 10 junctions/lights, the ride between each set of lights was a mixture of no issue or a miss firing feeling as if running out of fuel, very spluttey, feeling starved.
Got fuel but then half a mile from home she died at the side of the road. I restarted her and no complaints, rode home, pulled up to the garage and she died.
What do you guys think? Fuel Pump, injectors, FPR, electrical. Potentially the pump is too far down in the holder as Laitch once experienced. FYI the filter is new and the bike was running perfectly when parked-up on Monday.
It’s worth noting also, I changed the fuel sender on Monday when I painted the tank seam... could this be a problematic 4 pin?
I have a video here, the bike is at temp and maintaining an idle now albeit erratic:
https://youtu.be/JkBvMvwraAc (https://youtu.be/JkBvMvwraAc)
Reading this post back to myself I realised I was forgetting Law #3, trouble shooting: Look where you last worked. Went back in the garage, drained the tank, pulled the pump, disconnected the new old sender, removed the new old sender, reinstalled the old old sender, boxed everything back up, started, no complaints went for a 3 mile run, borderline perfect.
Cinderella shall go to the ball.
Post by: Laitch on July 13, 2018, 06:30:47 PM
. . ;. disconnected the new old sender, removed the new old sender, reinstalled the old old sender . . .Cinderella shall go to the ball.Why was there a new old sender in there anyway—treatment by part substitution via the shotgun approach? Don't run over any glass slippers.
Post by: alabrew on July 13, 2018, 06:35:57 PM
Post by: rbm on July 13, 2018, 06:55:14 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 13, 2018, 08:00:29 PM
This seems to be the year for dodgy fuel level senders. I'm read about half a dozen or so different threads where internals on the senders suddenly go intermittent. Every year it's something -- dodgy HES, dodgy ECUs, gummed up injectors. It's inevitable.
Clusters of sprag problems, leaking tanks, etc. The srevivce issue of the year. How does that work???
Post by: DJEwen on July 14, 2018, 02:47:33 PM
Why was there a new old sender in there anyway—treatment by part substitution via the shotgun approach?
Page 1, post #22, the original sender plug connection was fire damaged. I dressed it up with some heat shrink and electrical tape but that half assed approach was not the direction this build went in and I’d have been embarrassed to ever sell it in that state so purchased a new used one from my local motor works. I did notice the plug connection wasn’t great, the fire damaged one was nice and tight whereas the replacement one was more like throwing a hotdog down a rabbit hole.
So it probably was the 4 pin into the tank? Can't figure out why the fuel sender (fuel level sensor?) would cause poor idle?
Potentially the 4 pin connection itself yes or the internals degrading as RBM has mentioned, I’ll never know. Anyway, out with the old and in with the old... wait, what...
This seems to be the year for dodgy fuel level senders. I'm read about half a dozen or so different threads where internals on the senders suddenly go intermittent. Every year it's something -- dodgy HES, dodgy ECUs, gummed up injectors. It's inevitable.
Inevitable concerns me. This is my only bike, think it’s time for another so I can walk away when the K is crying for something else.
Post by: Laitch on July 14, 2018, 02:59:30 PM
Page 1, post #22,
Ewen 1:22
As difficult that is to envision as a tattoo, somebody might be moved to do it. :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on July 14, 2018, 03:13:30 PM
Ewen 1:22
As difficult that is to envision as a tattoo, somebody might be moved to do it. :giggles
Laitch, I’ll have that tattooed on my next “cheap week” holiday!
Post by: DJEwen on July 14, 2018, 03:40:13 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140718145700-14761721.jpeg)
I instead sampled the local delicacys, chased some Haggis and tossed the cabre.
Anyways, I was two up for the journey there and back. The bike wasn’t running fantastic, felt a little lumpy, throttle wasn’t greatly responsive, a little slow and spluttery. I have yet to sync the throttle bodies, I’ll do that this week, valve clearances are all fine also- what are the causes? Vac leak? I did install the plenum mounts with gasket sealer as well as the o rings and the rubbers where all fresh so don’t expect a leak around there.
At mile 112 she started to run out of fuel, luckily the road consisted of twisties to the next gas station, she died as I was rolling in at 115 Miles. So, 115 Miles to a tank with pillion averaging 50/55mph. Does that sound like good range carrying pillion?
Post by: rbm on July 14, 2018, 05:44:17 PM
Here's a link to my Fuelly results for my K75. A K100 should be close.
(http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-metric/141829.png) (http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/bmw/k75c/1987/rbm/141829)
With the lumpy response and the rather poor showing on fuel economy, there might be something up with the water temperature sensor. It might also be the "Z" tube leaking between the crankcase and air plenum. Try the test using propane gas around the TBs while the bike is running. Lots of threads about how to conduct that test.
I highly doubt that TB sync problems gives you the symptoms you're seeing but it certainly will help towards fuel economy and better running to do that procedure.
Post by: Laitch on July 14, 2018, 07:42:56 PM
You're running 115 miles on 3.3 Imperial gallons, which gives you 34.8 miles/imperial gallon. In metric, that's 6.75 l/100km. That's not too good. You should be more in the region of 5.3 - 5.5 l/100km which is 53.2 miles/imperial gallon.I wouldn't expect as high a result as Robert is quoting if you're riding two-up in hilly conditions, but you should be somewhere in the forties. The two of you are svelte riders. :yes 34.8 is too low. Part of it might be down to gear choice. Try riding only downhill. That should help.
Here's a link to my Fuelly results for my K75. A K100 should be close.
Post by: rbm on July 14, 2018, 09:25:38 PM
UK:
tank size = 3.3 Imp gal., distance = 115 miles, fuel economy = 34.8 mpg Imp.
34.8 mpg Imp. = 8.1 l/100Km (that's what my car gets!)
US:
tank size = 3.9 US gal., distance = 115 miles, fuel economy = 29.5 mpg US
Two up on a K-bike with luggage in a hilly country probably should get 5.5 - 5.8 l/100km. Let's take the worst.
5.8 l/100km = 48.7 MPG Imp. = 40.5 MPG US.
Post by: DJEwen on July 17, 2018, 03:06:29 PM
You're running 115 miles on 3.3 Imperial gallons, which gives you 34.8 miles/imperial gallon. In metric, that's 6.75 l/100km. That's not too good. You should be more in the region of 5.3 - 5.5 l/100km which is 53.2 miles/imperial gallon.
Here's a link to my Fuelly results for my K75. A K100 should be close.
(http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-metric/141829.png) (http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/bmw/k75c/1987/rbm/141829)
With the lumpy response and the rather poor showing on fuel economy, there might be something up with the water temperature sensor. It might also be the "Z" tube leaking between the crankcase and air plenum. Try the test using propane gas around the TBs while the bike is running. Lots of threads about how to conduct that test.
I highly doubt that TB sync problems gives you the symptoms you're seeing but it certainly will help towards fuel economy and better running to do that procedure.
Thanks for the useful information, Robert. Which temperature sensor do you suspect? The one in the stand pipe? I’d hope it’s not the crank case breather hose as it’s new. I’ll search the threads on the propane leak finding.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 17, 2018, 05:06:28 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 17, 2018, 05:22:57 PM
Sorry to back track your thread a bit. I got almost the same saddle as you. Can you help me understand how you chopped the frame to fit? It looks like you took a section out ahead of the taper in the tubing toward the rear. Did you just choose the middle section between the taper and the intersection near the tank? Any other tips or advice you would recommend?
Hello there. Back track away, no worries. That’s correct, the saddle was 140mm shorter than the frame, I simply taped the thickness of the masking tape at the taper then cut 140mm out up stream of that. That 140mm lost 15mm overall over rear hoop width so I mounted the hoop in the vice, heated the bends and gently forced outwards to make up the gap, I then dressed the cuts and had it welded. Hope this helps.
Post by: DJEwen on July 18, 2018, 03:08:28 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144550-1485890.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144638-1486186.jpeg)
I cut out a plate from some 1mm sheet steel, bent in a rear section and drilled some holes. The rear light finishes at a 45 degree angle, I made sure there was enough plate to run parallel with the finished line of the reflector. I painted it with 4 coats of black gloss in a rattle can.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-170718150047-1477685.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-170718150124-14791142.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-170718150137-14801921.jpeg)
Finished article mated with the replacement rear light and then through bolted to the frame.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144255-14811066.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144258-1482527.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144900-1489953.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144402-1483525.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144447-1484630.jpeg)
It doesn’t look too cave man like. Time will tell if it functioned as intended.
I also stole, cleaned up and mounted the rear tank pad from the spare bike.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144748-14882380.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718144707-14872255.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 18, 2018, 04:57:42 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180718165707-14912003.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 19, 2018, 03:54:26 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190718154700-1492274.jpeg)
After returning home from a 70 mile trip, as I was cruising up to the garage the bike died and wouldn’t restart.
I took this video but it wasn’t until I listened to it back that I realised I couldn’t hear the fuel pump:
https://youtu.be/oasC-wwM0r4 (https://youtu.be/oasC-wwM0r4)
Here’s the culprit:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-190718154707-149550.jpeg)
I don’t have any 7.5 amp fuses, my fuses range, 5amp, 10, 15 etc. I replaced it with a 5 and the bike started after a couple of cranks.
Will a 5amp be ok, would a 10amp even? Does anyone have any ideas why it will have blown the fuse? It’s hard to tell the age but lt looks as old as the rest of the bike before the rebuild.
Again, the 3x 7.5amp fuses were the only ones I didn’t change as I didn’t have that size.
Post by: alabrew on July 19, 2018, 05:31:58 PM
Post by: rbm on July 19, 2018, 06:52:18 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 20, 2018, 03:22:44 AM
Did you add any additional loads on that circuit in the course of modifying your bike?
Nothing added, no.
The bike died on me 3/4 of a mile from my house this morning. The 5 amp had blown so I changed it for a 10 but I'm getting nothing now, no fuel pump and no blowing fuse. It appears both times it blew were upon closing the throttle.
Pushing a K100 in full kit 3/4 of a mile at 0630 in the morning isn't much fun.
So what do I do next? Pull the pump and test it direct to the battery first then start working back down the line?
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2018, 07:56:48 AM
So what do I do next? Pull the pump and test it direct to the battery first then start working back down the line?Yes. Be as certain as you can though, that the fuel injection control plug pins and wiring aren't playing up again.
Post by: Skunky on July 20, 2018, 10:12:44 AM
Yes. Be as certain as you can though, that the fuel injection control plug pins and wiring aren't playing up again.
+1 on that Dave, Take a methodical approach, Before you toss the pump check its getting voltage. If its not work back to the 4 way plug, if it is new pump. I would wager it isn't. Although the fact that your blowing fuses shows something is shorting. You had the frame powdercoated so you may be having a clean earth issue. IF your'e not getting a good earth it can do all sorts of weird shit where your power is all over the place. You could always put in a new 4 way connector to elinate that.
Laitch and Rbm put me onto Bertram Vogels troubleshooting guide and its invaluable when you have issues like yours.
http://k-bike-knowledge.000webhostapp.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm
Post by: DJEwen on July 20, 2018, 02:52:27 PM
Yes. Be as certain as you can though, that the fuel injection control plug pins and wiring aren't playing up again.
What more can I do with the FIC plug that I haven’t done already?
+1 on that Dave, Take a methodical approach, Before you toss the pump check its getting voltage. If its not work back to the 4 way plug, if it is new pump. I would wager it isn't. Although the fact that your blowing fuses shows something is shorting. You had the frame powdercoated so you may be having a clean earth issue. IF your'e not getting a good earth it can do all sorts of weird shit where your power is all over the place. You could always put in a new 4 way connector to elinate that.
Laitch and Rbm put me onto Bertram Vogels troubleshooting guide and its invaluable when you have issues like yours.
http://k-bike-knowledge.000webhostapp.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm
Copy that. I’m not going to do anything rash.
I’d hope it’s not an earth fault, I stripped a 1mm brown core from some household 2.5, sleeved it and ran it from the mount under the tank to the battery then onto the Gearbox making sure the ring terminals were touching bare steel and aluminium.
I have 2 copies of Bertram’s in the garage, I’ll read through it once my dummy is back in my mouth.
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2018, 03:23:58 PM
I pulled the plug from the Ignition Control Unit in the head and attached the old ICU and went for start whilst twisting the connection into different positions during start- this identified the plug as the problem . . . Twisting position dictated fire/no fire.Will twisting this connection cause the fuse to blow, or the bike to stall when running again as it did previously? If it does, there might be a short within that harness or faulty connectors. Otherwise, checking from the pump to the four-pin connector and onward is the way to go. While you're resting, clean the fuse slots with fine emery cloth and get some 7.5A fuses and replace all the ones currently being used.
I heavily dosed both male and female connection to the ICUs with electrical cleaner and vigorously cleaned with a paint brush, left them to dry then repeated the process.
Once dry for a second time I plugged back in as standard position and started. The bike ran with no issues- she heated to 80c and the fan kicked in and out as needed repeatedly.
Post by: Laitch on July 30, 2018, 09:19:13 AM
Post by: DJEwen on July 30, 2018, 09:35:36 AM
What size is the front Scout? Is it a Front/Rear type or is it a Rear? Is it a TT or a TL? If is a TT, did you mount a tube in it?
Rear type tyre, front mounted, 120/90-18, tubed.
Post by: Laitch on July 30, 2018, 10:03:11 AM
Rear type tyre, front mounted, 120/90-18, tubed.Did you reverse its rotation direction?
Post by: DJEwen on July 30, 2018, 10:17:37 AM
Did you reverse its rotation direction?
Only when I’m pushing it backwards...
Post by: Skunky on July 30, 2018, 01:09:30 PM
Only when I’m pushing it backwards...Pushing it a bit too much Dave :hehehe. Seriously though have you got it sorted now?.
Post by: DJEwen on July 30, 2018, 02:01:54 PM
Pushing it a bit too much Dave :hehehe. Seriously though have you got it sorted now?.
Haha, 3/4 of a mile was enough, Gary, never again! Nope, not sorted it, I’ve attempted it a few times, gone into the garage, looked at it for 3 minutes but ended up turning round and pouring a whisky instead.
I’ll get round to it...
Post by: Skunky on July 30, 2018, 04:22:18 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyco-AMP-Electrical-Waterproof-Connector-Kit-1-2-3-4-5-6-Pin-Way-Superseal-Car/231993136001?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53380%26meid%3D4724fffa322f4a5a94756e57858ed5f2%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D231993136001&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
Post by: Enfield on August 04, 2018, 04:42:31 AM
Couldnt help noticing your chicken strips on the picture! Exact same spot as mine - do you find that the 140 tyre is so “round” that it would be “ unhealhty” to go further Down doing corners? I sure feel something Like that 😅
Guess it would be different with a wider rim!
What about the 120 in front is that ok? I run 4.00 - 18 - works Great - but still very round!
Regards
Chr
Post by: Enfield on August 04, 2018, 04:51:19 AM
Post by: DJEwen on September 25, 2018, 01:10:53 PM
Excuse my absence, had a lot going on at home. Thanks again for the assistance and to those of you who reached out privately in aid of repairing my mechanical horse.
It’s been two months since I pushed the brick home and since my dummy is back in my mouth I decided to head out to the garage and see what the story was. I was confident that the fuel pump had shit the bed so skipped a handful of steps on Bertram’s fuel injection trouble shooting process flow and went straight in to pulling the potentially offending item out. I stripped a couple sections of wire and bench tested the unit directly to the battery and got nothing but a click, I attempted reversing polarity to free the unit but this was equally as successful, findings below, would you agree the pump is finished? I’ve already found a replacement on fleebay for £25 on a 48hr courier.
There’s a Gentleman’s ride out this Sunday to raise money for a cancer charity, would be cool to get the Brick rolling without pushing it.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250918125735-1685905.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-250918125714-168271.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/D4056vgVnvM (https://youtu.be/D4056vgVnvM)
PS: Click the Brick...
Post by: Skunky on September 25, 2018, 01:16:14 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 25, 2018, 02:24:34 PM
Post by: DJEwen on September 25, 2018, 02:50:28 PM
Welcome back DJ. Looks like the fuel pump is fooked. Can't do any harm to change it for £25 anyway, but your cutting it fine for the rideout. #FUCKCANCER :2thumbup:
Cheers Gary, nice tail BTW ;) that one doesn’t look like it’s gone down the freeway by itself haha
Yeah... pretty fine, see what like, hopefully it’s only the pump.
That's one of the most boring videos yet; however, I do think you tapped out in Morse code, My hovercraft is full of eels. As a fuel pump, it doesn't make the grade. Use it to work on your code technique. Is the replacement the same diameter?
Strange that, Laitch, my hovercraft is full of eels! I believe it is the same diameter, 52mm, looks like the same one that can be found on AliExpress.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173076942157 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173076942157)
Post by: Skunky on September 25, 2018, 03:05:39 PM
Cheers Gary, nice tail BTW ;)
Been said before :ba:
Post by: DJEwen on October 09, 2018, 06:45:15 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-091018063726-17622112.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-091018063704-17591530.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-091018063706-1760794.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-091018063708-1761643.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on October 09, 2018, 10:53:27 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 09, 2018, 11:54:23 AM
Post by: DJEwen on October 09, 2018, 01:03:48 PM
Hey! Where's the graffiti and the windblown trash? Nice bike, but the background is all wrong. No attitude.
Haha, Gryph, you’re not wrong however not sure how well some graffiti tags on the garage doors will go down with the neighbours! I’ll get some quality shots done soon.
Post by: DJEwen on October 09, 2018, 01:08:43 PM
Unfortunately the submersible hose is finished, it’s leaking badly in multiple places, I had already swapped this from the spare bike after the first split but it’s clear I should have replaced for new in the first instance [goes to order new submersible hose] I suspect this could be the cause of my lack of power and potentially not a vacuum leak?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-091018130411-1765137.jpeg)
https://youtu.be/5rnr9SGi2tQ (https://youtu.be/5rnr9SGi2tQ)
Post by: Laitch on October 09, 2018, 03:32:17 PM
I suspect this could be the cause of my lack of power and potentially not a vacuum leak?A vacuum leak would suck, wouldn't it?(https://imgfast.net/users/4211/29/48/93/smiles/177381.gif)
Take it for a spin; you'll find out.
Post by: DJEwen on October 12, 2018, 04:18:43 AM
Post by: DJEwen on October 12, 2018, 04:27:19 AM
Damn still looking Good!
Couldnt help noticing your chicken strips on the picture! Exact same spot as mine - do you find that the 140 tyre is so “round” that it would be “ unhealhty” to go further Down doing corners? I sure feel something Like that 😅
Guess it would be different with a wider rim!
What about the 120 in front is that ok? I run 4.00 - 18 - works Great - but still very round!
Regards
Chr
It was never really intended on being some knee down speed machine really. I'm just a pussy, to scared to go any lower because I think I'd actually cry if it let go and I put her on her side after all this work, I'd have to set fire to it and walk away! I do still have the crash bars, I could re-install them but I'm happy not finding the limit.
I'll get her a bit further over next summer... :falldown:
Post by: Enfield on October 14, 2018, 03:37:37 PM
Post by: Skunky on October 14, 2018, 03:39:54 PM
Post by: DJEwen on October 15, 2018, 08:27:50 AM
:2thumbup:I fully understand what you are saying!! Damn your bike looks good - throw some pics when you have the time!
Thanks, Enfield. I'll get some pictures up once I can get her out for a shoot.
Just in time for the Scottish winter
Lol... we're hardy up here north of the wall :hide:
Post by: DJEwen on October 15, 2018, 03:49:28 PM
Here’s some shots below, all iPhone ones and arguably over edited.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-151018154122-17781893.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-151018154128-1781599.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-151018154129-17821513.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-151018154137-17831198.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-151018154138-17842267.jpeg)
Post by: Martini on October 16, 2018, 06:52:59 AM
Post by: DJEwen on October 16, 2018, 10:55:06 AM
That's one clean build, kudos!
Thanks :2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on October 17, 2018, 02:07:05 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 17, 2018, 07:59:20 PM
Post by: DJEwen on October 21, 2018, 05:00:57 PM
Bikes like yours leave me feeling very torn. Basically I like K bikes kept original but that looks just amazing. It also looks practical and useable which is a huge plus. Great job!
Well that’s saying something, Thanks! This is my daily so it had to retain some form of practicality, it’s all I need for the commute to/from work.
Post by: DJEwen on December 03, 2018, 08:45:52 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-031218084325-18751480.jpeg)
Post by: duckytran on December 03, 2018, 12:11:08 PM
Post by: DJEwen on December 03, 2018, 12:22:01 PM
Who made the little side bag? It's nice and clean. Would love to get my hand on one. :clap:
Claire at French Touch Upholstery, you can get her on Instagram @Frenchtouch_upholstery.
She’s done a great job on them, full prototype from start to finish Think she’s on Facebook too.
Post by: duckytran on December 03, 2018, 12:39:07 PM
Claire at French Touch Upholstery, you can get her on Instagram @Frenchtouch_upholstery.
She’s done a great job on them, full prototype from start to finish Think she’s on Facebook too.
Thanks for the info. How much was it?
Post by: DJEwen on December 03, 2018, 01:09:42 PM
Hmm... you’d be better giving Claire a shout, I paid a good bit more for it during the prototype phase and had her make changes along the way so mine wouldn’t be the best representation of the cost. I’m not aware she’s made any others to date.
Thanks for the info. How much was it?
Post by: DJEwen on February 04, 2019, 05:08:05 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 04, 2019, 07:26:31 PM
Post by: DJEwen on March 04, 2019, 07:24:01 AM
After further research I decided to purchase a JMT Lithium-Ion Battery hj51913, apparently this unit only looses 5% of charge per month if shelved and also has a handy triple light test button which indicates the charge level but the best part is that it only weighs a little over 1kg! The bike starts from cold at immediate touch of the starter button now. The only downside I understand, with the exception of the cost, is if the unit is completely discharged then the cells are often non recoverable.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040319045016-19771588.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040319045029-19781953.jpeg)
I also purchased a one litre ‘fuel friend’ which is strapped to the battery behind the altanator and starter (no touching surfaces and plenty of air movement still)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040319045025-1978878.jpeg)
My OEM BMW fork seals have also arrived to replace the bran new annoying as hell leaking pattern part ones. I also ordered a set of LSL street bars, these are 820mm wide so will offer a more stable almost R Nine T position over the original 660mm stock bars. I’ll change out the fork seals and bars together in the coming weeks.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040319045041-1980623.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-040319045117-1981222.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on March 04, 2019, 07:34:35 AM
Post by: DJEwen on March 04, 2019, 07:41:01 AM
Do you not use a trickle charger. I never have any starting issues with mine
Hi Gary, no, I don’t own one... yet. I’m going to see how it goes with the Lithium Ion, monitor it and trend it over a while, I’m hoping if they’re as good as they say they are that it won’t need a trickle. I’m unsure what the usage is from the digital clock on the Acewell but I’d expect not much?
Post by: DJEwen on March 04, 2019, 07:49:36 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TcbGnNsH7A (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TcbGnNsH7A)
Post by: duckytran on March 04, 2019, 11:25:54 AM
Post by: DJEwen on March 04, 2019, 12:07:23 PM
Does this mean she's no longer on the market?
Correct! She got to £3800ish on fleEbay but I pulled the advert with 6 days left and over 370 watchers. I only considered it as I nearly had my hands on a 1996 CB 500 which was my first “want” but in the end decided to continue modding/perfecting ‘Triple S’. I’ve only got a 3x3m space so no room for companions. I think the starting/electrical niggles were the main driver to get rid but the procurement of this new battery seems to have got rid of every start problem, she’s not missed a command since.
Post by: DJEwen on March 05, 2019, 04:15:22 AM
Yes, the BEP 3.0 has a circuit to sense 7L threshold on the pre-85 fuel sender and trigger a lamp. The signal is active LOW meaning it goes to ground potential when activated. This only works with inputs on the CA85 that are also active LOW. Acewell is not specific in the manual whether the low fuel light is active HIGH or active LOW.
Does this mean that the circuits could be the wrong way round currently? I’m no Electrician...
Active high / Active low signals
Some indicator lights on the gauge activate when a +12V signal is applied to the wire. This is termed active high. Opening the circuit will turn off the indicator. Internally to the gauge, the LED cathode is grounded. An example of an active HIGH input is the turn signal indicator.
Alternatively, some of the indicator lights activate when they get grounded. This is termed active low. Opening the circuit to the input will turn off the indicator. Internally to the gauge, the LED anode is connected to the +12V going to the gauge. An example of an active LOW input is the oil pressure indicator.
Post by: bocutter Ed on March 05, 2019, 11:11:39 AM
Does this mean that the circuits could be the wrong way round currently? I’m no Electrician...Does the fuel light go out when you've less than 7 liter in the tank? If so, yes.
Post by: DJEwen on March 05, 2019, 01:41:05 PM
Does the fuel light go out when you've less than 7 liter in the tank? If so, yes.
Hi Ed,
Nope, I have an illuminated light regardless of volume level...
Post by: DJEwen on March 12, 2019, 04:56:13 PM
The only outstanding issue I seem to have, with exception of the leaky fork seals, is that the fuel light is still permananently on, on the Acewell CA-85. The Acewell and BEP 3.0 senses the level easily with 1985 (pre float) electronic sender and it should indicate a fuel light at 7L... Those of you who have followed the build know I got a replacement BEP but I still have the light issue, and some of you will remember I replaced the fuel sender too (which ended up being dodgy) and I still had the light on with a full gas tank. Jumping back to page 6 of the thread, Martin explained the active high/low circuit, quoted below:
Does this mean that the circuits could be the wrong way round currently? I’m no Electrician...
Does the fuel light go out when you've less than 7 liter in the tank? If so, yes.
Hi Ed,
Nope, I have an illuminated light regardless of volume level...
Any pre float/Acewell, BEP, fuel light gurus about?
Post by: DJEwen on March 14, 2019, 02:54:52 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-140319145229-1983812.jpeg)
Post by: Martin on March 14, 2019, 03:35:39 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on March 14, 2019, 06:09:46 PM
Any pre float/Acewell, BEP, fuel light gurus about?Which BEP connection did you use? How about a photo of the BEP with its connections?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-140319180743.png)
Post by: DJEwen on March 15, 2019, 07:57:01 AM
To lengthen the life of your seals pack silicone grease under the dust cover. It's not as important as you're fitting gaiters but everything helps.
Regards Martin.
Thanks, Martin, I'll do that.
Which BEP connection did you use? How about a photo of the BEP with its connections?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-140319180743.png)
Sure, Laitch, I'll get some photographs tomorrow. I'm not understanding the diagram you have posted, will have to review the Acewell wiring diagram.
Post by: Laitch on March 15, 2019, 08:44:39 AM
I'm not understanding the diagram you have posted, will have to review the Acewell wiring diagram.This is a BEP/Acewell diagram for your model.
Post by: DJEwen on March 15, 2019, 09:17:13 AM
This is a BEP/Acewell diagram for your model.
Brilliant! Where did you come across this, Laitch, I've never seen such a diagram?
In the office right now so have no access to take a clear image but here's one from earlier on in the build, on first glance there is a bit of a disconnect from what's in the diagram you posted VS my current terminations, all function with the exception of the fuel lamp.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-150319091355-19902176.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on March 15, 2019, 10:08:50 AM
Where did you come across this, Laitch, I've never seen such a diagram?It's for a CA085 rather than an MA085. It came from cafe4racer's Marulab BEP download section.
In the left column, where do the blue WRN wire and the yellow G4 wire terminate? Based on my interpretation of the diagram and not knowing your answer to my question, I'd swap the positions of those wires in the left column array but only because it's your moto and the consequences are an ocean away. :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on March 17, 2019, 04:37:23 AM
It's for a CA085 rather than an MA085. It came from cafe4racer's Marulab BEP download section.
In the left column, where do the blue WRN wire and the yellow G4 wire terminate? Based on my interpretation of the diagram and not knowing your answer to my question, I'd swap the positions of those wires in the left column array but only because it's your moto and the consequences are an ocean away. :giggles
My gauge is the CA85 but that wiring diagram you posted doesn’t seem to align with the wiring diagram that came with my gauge, I’ll need to have a search through that C4R downloads section.
The yellow G4? I’m not sure I’m following you, Laitch as there are no gear positions (G4) indicated anyway- yesterday I tried both Yellow A and Blue B both terminated to BAR with a full gas tank and still had an illuminated light, I even tried them both together to no avail.
I’d love to ride the bike around the North Coast 500 but I don’t quite fancy it without the fuel level indicator :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160618135659-1383925.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160618135700-13841712.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160319163933-2002314.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160319163835-20011373.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on March 17, 2019, 05:01:40 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160319163640-19971071.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160319163611-19961221.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160319163503-19932235.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160319163640-1997201.jpeg)
What do you think of the fork boots and new bars?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160319163800-20001974.jpeg)
The installation of the LSL Street Bars was mostly a success however the standard (naked) 170mm upper brake hose wasn’t long enough to meet the master cylinder in its new wider position so I’ve ordered a (high handle bars) 250mm one which should fit OK as the new position measures 220mm centre to centre. I really like the initial feel/position of the bars, feels more planted.
Unfortunately the internal diameter of the LSL bars doesn’t allow for the original bar ends so I’ve ordered some replacement weighted ones to fit the new 13mm ID.
There were many fasteners that didn’t come with the Stainless Steel fastener kit(s) I used during the build so I individually polished the original screw caps up on the abrasive wheel, treated, coated then re-installed. I live on the coast in Scotland so it hasn’t taken long for them all to corrode again- yesterday I individually pulled every rusty fixing, measured and ordered a replacement in stainless steel - yes, should have done this in the first place, you could call this anal but it’s annoying as hell when the rest of the bike is immaculate, the rusty fasteners just let it down
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-160319163749-1999771.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on March 17, 2019, 07:45:24 AM
The bars are very reminiscent of what we used to sport back in the late 70's, early 80's (Superbike bend) remember the BOTT and Dave Emde, or Lawson levering the Kawi over in lurid 2 wheel drifts? I think it's more authentic than the strap-ons so popular with CR's, although I did clamp on Tommaselli's to lay on the tanks.
Have you considered a small rectangle of heavy mesh to protect the center of the radiator from stones? Looks like it's the natural debris line from the pics.
Nice effort, now for some proper rearsets and a Micron Oil Additive sticker. ;)
Post by: DJEwen on March 17, 2019, 08:01:16 AM
Your gaiters look stellar, and better yet, actually perform an important job.
The bars are very reminiscent of what we used to sport back in the late 70's, early 80's (Superbike bend) remember the BOTT and Dave Emde, or Lawson levering the Kawi over in lurid 2 wheel drifts? I think it's more authentic than the strap-ons so popular with CR's, although I did clamp on Tommaselli's to lay on the tanks.
Have you considered a small rectangle of heavy mesh to protect the center of the radiator from stones? Looks like it's the natural debris line from the pics.
Nice effort, now for some proper rearsets and a Micron Oil Additive sticker. ;)
Thanks, they have grown on me overnight, I think they are actually quite fitting in the direction of style the bike went.
Wish I knew who you were talking about, I’m just 32 and motorcycles are very new to me!
The radiator is meshed, it’s way back in page 3, I actually have the front fender from the other bike, considering cutting it similar but further round at the back:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5327-180518021101-12501864.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on March 17, 2019, 08:54:06 AM
I’m not sure I’m following you, Laitch as there are no gear positions (G4) indicated anyway- yesterday I tried both Yellow A and Blue B both terminated to BAR with a full gas tank and still had an illuminated light, I even tried them both together to no avail. . . .It would be impossible to follow me because I misidentified the wiring port. The BAR port should receive either a blue or grey wire according to the diagram I supplied. Yours has a yellow wire. The diagram is actually for an MA rather than a CA; the fuel indicator wiring routes are likely the same though for both models.
I’d love to ride the bike around the North Coast 500 but I don’t quite fancy it without the fuel level indicator :giggles
If the Acewell's odometer operates and you've learned your moto's average mixed-driving fuel economy by riding your moto with a full tank until it's empty, calculating the mpg then refilling it with the gallon of fuel you cleverly carried along with you to enable your return trip, riding the North Coast 500 using your odometer for fuel consumption calculation should be no problem.
Regarding radiator screening: if the mesh is too fine, it might cause air turbulence on its surface restricting airflow through it.
Post by: DJEwen on March 17, 2019, 12:44:48 PM
It would be impossible to follow me because I misidentified the wiring port. The BAR port should receive either a blue or grey wire according to the diagram I supplied. Yours has a yellow wire. The diagram is actually for an MA rather than a CA; the fuel indicator wiring routes are likely the same though for both models.
If the Acewell's odometer operates and you've learned your moto's average mixed-driving fuel economy by riding your moto with a full tank until it's empty, calculating the mpg then refilling it with the gallon of fuel you cleverly carried along with you to enable your return trip, riding the North Coast 500 using your odometer for fuel consumption calculation should be no problem.
Regarding radiator screening: if the mesh is too fine, it might cause air turbulence on its surface restricting airflow through it.
No worries, Laitch. I’ll have a look over the downloads section at C4R, my current trolls of the interwebs have produced no one else mounting a CA85 with BEP on pre float, at least not documented, I have many people privately messaging me on Instagram for assistance wiring the 85 to other models of bikes.
Yeah, you’re right, for sure I can run without the indicator using the trip meter(s) but it’s annoying me... it’s the only thing that doesn’t work :dunno2:
Funny you mention the mesh, I was just inspecting the current (mild steel) mesh from the local hardware store that I cut and sprayed, the paints broken out in a few places and it’s rusting, likely due to impacts via my aggressive cut of the front fender. I’m going to order some stainless mesh and spray it black gloss. I hadn’t even considered air flow/turbulence. I’m looking at a sheet on fleebay, it’s 5 mesh which has an aperture of 4.5mm, apparently that creates a 74% open area, here’s a link: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401489794572 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401489794572) What do you think?
Post by: Laitch on March 17, 2019, 01:08:12 PM
I’ll have a look over the downloads section at C4R, my current trolls of the interwebs have produced no one else mounting a CA85 with BEP on pre float, at least not documented, . . .Like I wrote, the CA and the MA probably have similar fuel light paths. I think your blue wire needs to get with the program somehow. :giggles
I hadn’t even considered air flow/turbulence. I’m looking at a sheet on fleebay, it’s 5 mesh which has an aperture of 4.5mm, apparently that creates a 74% open area, here’s a link: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401489794572 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401489794572) What do you think?
One way to determine screen differences would be to attach streamers to them then point a fan or leaf blower at them and compare the effects. That's the obsessive approach preferred by moto-theorists. The simplest approach is just to be mindful of the possible effect and enjoy the ride. If the moto fan seems to run more often than your experience indicates it should, and the coolant is at the right level, it might be worth investigating the screen as one of the causes. Until then, forget about it.
Post by: natalena on March 17, 2019, 04:26:41 PM
Post by: DJEwen on March 18, 2019, 10:14:18 AM
I think your blue wire needs to get with the program somehow. :giggles
But HOW?
:help:
Post by: Laitch on March 18, 2019, 10:37:29 AM
Post by: DJEwen on March 18, 2019, 10:53:40 AM
To what is the yellow wire currently in the BAR port connected?
Alpha Plug, Check Engine or Fuel.
Post by: Laitch on March 18, 2019, 11:30:54 AM
Alpha Plug, Check Engine or Fuel.To what does the blue wire at WRN connect?
Post by: DJEwen on March 18, 2019, 12:25:02 PM
To what does the blue wire at WRN connect?
Bravo Plug, Check Engine or Fuel.
Post by: DJEwen on March 19, 2019, 08:56:21 AM
Additionally, my stainless fasteners have arrived to replace the offending rusty items, I’m still awaiting the washers however.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319084758-20031181.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on March 19, 2019, 04:57:12 PM
The new 250mm Goodridge hose arrived so I installed that and bled the front brakes, back to fully operational.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319163534-20041848.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319163842-20082460.jpeg)
As part of my clean up of the less than shiny bits, I decided to wrap the exhaust headers, I purchased a 20m roll of exhaust wrap, a 30m roll of wire lock, neither of which I had used before, some new gloves and set to work. After removing the full exhaust and dampening the whole roll of exhaust wrap under the cold tap I started on the rearmost pipe as practice and worked my way forward to the longer pipes. It’s not exactly difficult, wrapping fabric and twisting wire. The material seemed to take on a different rigidity/form as I worked through but this is likely from my constant vigorous untwisting whilst trying to keep the wrap tight as I wrapped the pipes off the roll, a pair of hands behind me would have helped with this to untwist as it spooled off the roll or accurate measuring and cutting for each pipe but I wanted to avoid wastage as I had no idea how much I’d use.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319163750-20071472.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319165049-20092029.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190319163621-20051565.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on March 21, 2019, 04:33:25 PM
I have now replaced nearly every rusty offending fastener with a new stainless steel one, the only ones I’m waiting on are the 22x cam and crank case cover fasteners with seals.
As I mentioned before, the original painted mild steel mesh on the radiator had deteriorated and rusted. I ordered stainless mesh, stainless steel etching primer and some gloss black spray paint with a view to replacing like for like without the concern of the mesh rusting when stone chipped. I cut down the new ‘5 mesh’ to suit and as I was trial fitting ahead of painting I realised I actually quite liked it unpainted so I dressed the edges with rubber edging strip and anchored it with some Revotec pull through ties, these are designed for attaching aftermarket fans to radiators I believe and probably overkill but no harm in a bit of belt and braces- do you think I should paint it?
On Saturday I’ll try and finalise the fuel indication issue and give "Revive" a much needed bath.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210319161549-20132397.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210319161907-20162186.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210319161646-20141268.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210319161747-20151673.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210319162023-201780.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on March 21, 2019, 08:36:49 PM
Post by: DJEwen on March 22, 2019, 04:49:09 PM
I like the grill in plain SS, kind of picks up on the forks and tank cap, and ties in nicely. The mesh looks way better than the expanded steel. Nicely done!
Thanks, Natalena. I’m happy with it, it does tie in with the other components like you say.
I was packing up some of the old panels/parts yesterday and offered up the old chrome crash bars to the bike... one of them is slightly damaged but thick enough powder coat would cover it. I’m thinking I might get them powder coated black gloss, get some new end caps and install them. Thoughts?
Post by: DJEwen on March 23, 2019, 01:29:50 PM
I have finished the front end though, got the Moto off the lift, gave her a wash and went for a road test.
New bars feel great, bike seems to turn in better. Difficult to say yet whether I’ll have made the ride uncomfortable as I only covered 22 miles but will be doing 300 miles tomorrow so will have a better idea then. I really like the fork gaiters and SS radiator mesh. I’m going to have the crash bars powdercoated and re-mount them.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230319132331-20181658.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230319132327-20181097.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230319132447-20221096.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on March 25, 2019, 10:27:11 AM
We ended up getting caught in a 4 mile stretch of torrential rain on the way to the event and I was soaked to the bone which made the already challenging bike ride home even harder and even more difficult to control in the gusting winds. Never in my life have I been as cold as I was last night.
Nevertheless the day was great overall, met some lovely people, saw some cool bikes and best of all the Moto never missed a beat, she done around 300 miles over 10 hours and achieved 47.9mpg (US) / 39.9mpg Imperial.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095853-20301922.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095847-2028145.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095828-2024506.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095836-2024229.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095842-20262010.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095836-20251857.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319095849-2029470.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on March 25, 2019, 01:40:38 PM
Post by: DJEwen on March 25, 2019, 02:26:11 PM
greetings...
this is my favorite queered out brick at the moment...
j o
Cheers Jo, means a lot :)
Looks like a fine gathering of petrol heads! Keep racking up the miles, as it's great to hear a café racer is actually used for ... well scooting to the café :) Where in Scotland are you? A close buddy used to be on the SAR team at Ben Nevis, died a few years ago on the hill.
It was a not bad turn out, the weather kept many away though, atleast those with half a brain.
I’m in Aberdeen on the East Coast. Ben Nevis is a lovely area, some great twisties!
Post by: DJEwen on March 25, 2019, 02:39:34 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319142217-20351325.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319141930-20331181.jpeg)
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-250319142250-2040508.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on March 25, 2019, 04:08:33 PM
Have you considered rolling some of that SS mesh into a tube to act as a brakelight housing, extending to the hoop edges to hide the turn signal mounting nuts?
Your first picture is great, as it looks exactly like fire suppressant foam on a tarmac.
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 05:57:02 AM
The round lens in the seat look's too much like a spider, totally icky.
Have you considered rolling some of that SS mesh into a tube to act as a brakelight housing, extending to the hoop edges to hide the turn signal mounting nuts?
Your first picture is great, as it looks exactly like fire suppressant foam on a tarmac.
Haha, now you say it, it does look pretty creepy! I thought it could be run in with some stainless steel eyelets, anyway, there is no availability with the upholsterer until mid May and I'd rather not attack the seat myself as I'll probably mess it up and there's no spare material.
The mesh is a good shout for the interim but I think I really just need to get out of that area altogether, the <140mm reduction in the rear of the frame pulls the back part into close contact with the rear wheel at full travel and the shock isn't adjustable.
I have a dual light light I was initially going to install on the back that was too big, it has an integrated number plate light, I'm going to mock that up against the plate mount and see how it looks, its tail, brake and turn signal but ill just wire the licence plate light, tail and brake and leave out the turn signals. I have a 2mm sheet of Alu I can work to shape... Need a free night in the garage now :D
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2019, 08:59:34 AM
. . . I think I really just need to get out of that area altogether, the <140mm reduction in the rear of the frame pulls the back part into close contact with the rear wheel at full travel . . .Are you indicating that the tire actually touches the frame at full compression of the shock?
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 09:19:21 AM
Are you indicating that the tire actually touches the frame at full compression of the shock?
Not the frame, at full compression it would "kiss" the rear light guard - yes, I need a shock I can adjust to prevent this, it's wasn't in the budget during the build - open to suggestions, recommendations?
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2019, 09:31:24 AM
Not the frame, at full compression it would "kiss" the rear light guard - yes, I need a shock I can adjust to prevent this, it's wasn't in the budget during the build - open to suggestions, recommendations?I think you should install a half-fender then go ahead with the string of LEDs at frame or seat height.
Post by: Skunky on March 26, 2019, 10:43:34 AM
switch 1 : enable/disable choke
switch 2 : fuel level selector : full bar mode or a LED at 4liter
switch 3 : enable/disable bulbtester
switch 4 : speed stabilisation
switch 5 : enable/disable blinkers
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Post by: Skunky on March 26, 2019, 11:10:36 AM
Not the frame, at full compression it would "kiss" the rear light guard - yes, I need a shock I can adjust to prevent this, it's wasn't in the budget during the build - open to suggestions, recommendations?
Actually it looks from the photos like you have a Hagon shock and it looks a bit soft. I can see you're not a small unit but you should be able to go two up without hitting the frame. Why not try the standard shock off your donor bike. Set it on its hardest setting.
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 11:51:11 AM
Dave with reference to your fuel light issue and the BEP3.0 hidden switches. Read this thread and there is diagram of the switches. Switch 2 controls the BAR for a warning light
switch 1 : enable/disable choke
switch 2 : fuel level selector : full bar mode or a LED at 4liter
switch 3 : enable/disable bulbtester
switch 4 : speed stabilisation
switch 5 : enable/disable blinkers
Well fuck a duck...
Where are you pulling that information from, Cafe4Racer? Its not in the BEP user manual, nor on Marulabs website, nor on the instructions that came with my BEP... anywhere.
This better work! :beer:
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2019, 01:41:42 PM
Where are you pulling that information from, Cafe4Racer? Its not in the BEP user manual, nor on Marulabs website, nor on the instructions that came with my BEP... anywhere.I don't know where Skunky found it, but I found it at cafe4racer on this page (https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html). Scroll down and click on the thumbnail indicated by the arrow.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260319133425.png)
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 02:02:06 PM
I don't know where Skunky found it, but I found it at cafe4racer on this page (https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html). Scroll down and click on the thumbnail indicated by the arrow.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260319133425.png)
So this incredibly well distributed information on the hidden BEP switches that are located inside the unit appear in a single thumbnail photograph of one of the distributors, not on their website detailing the product and functions or in their user manual, genius. This isn’t the Illuminati.
Thanks for the direction and searching, guys. I’ll get onto it ASAP!
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 02:28:25 PM
I think you should install a half-fender then go ahead with the string of LEDs at frame or seat height.
Something like this, Laitch?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-260319142440-20411507.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 02:37:12 PM
Actually it looks from the photos like you have a Hagon shock and it looks a bit soft. I can see you're not a small unit but you should be able to go two up without hitting the frame. Why not try the standard shock off your donor bike. Set it on its hardest setting.
It’s arguably maybe not the correct shock for the bike but came with it and it’s in great condition. Good shout with respect to the donor shock, it’s in a fair mess but a good starter for 10.
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2019, 03:57:24 PM
This isn’t the Illuminati.Keep telling yourself that. :giggles My robe came from Revzilla—500D Cordura. Motoport Stretch is bestowed at the highest level.
Something like this, Laitch?The Honda's tail light looks like it'd be a wiggler in that position, but that's a start. You could do better than that. You must do better—to match your moto's brio.
Post by: DJEwen on March 26, 2019, 04:19:53 PM
Keep telling yourself that. :giggles My robe came from Revzilla—500D Cordura. Motoport Stretch is bestowed at the highest level.
That guy has the most annoying video review introduction! :giggles
The Honda's tail light looks like it'd be a wiggler in that position, but that's a start. You could do better than that. You must do better—to match your moto's brio.
Aye, it looks like an after thought, like a fog light complete with rusty bracket that’s been slapped on the underside of an imported Subaru Impreza rear bumper to pass a UK MOT. The fender is about where I need to be, however.
I’ll have to mock up a template first, I wonder if I have enough exposed rear wheel/reduced overhang to warrant a fender? I guess the smashed tail light(s) answers that thought.
Post by: DJEwen on March 27, 2019, 09:13:51 AM
Dave with reference to your fuel light issue and the BEP3.0 hidden switches. Read this thread and there is diagram of the switches. Switch 2 controls the BAR for a warning light
switch 1 : enable/disable choke
switch 2 : fuel level selector : full bar mode or a LED at 4liter
switch 3 : enable/disable bulbtester
switch 4 : speed stabilisation
switch 5 : enable/disable blinkers
Gary, were you supposed to post a link to the part where you said "this thread"?
Post by: Laitch on March 27, 2019, 10:43:56 AM
Gary, were you supposed to post a link to the part where you said "this thread"?I'm not Gary, but let's pretend. I typed bep switches site:motobrick.com into the Google search engine. This was the first hit (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=11433.0) of the list—Reply #4.
Post by: DJEwen on March 28, 2019, 09:55:09 AM
I'm not Gary, but let's pretend. I typed bep switches site:motobrick.com into the Google search engine. This was the first hit (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=11433.0) of the list—Reply #4.
Cheers, Laitch.
Post by: DJEwen on March 30, 2019, 04:21:23 PM
I also added some bar end indicators, road tested and there’s no vibration in the handlebars with the weighted ends gone. I also made some further adjustments to the bar position, rotating them back slightly and the controls forward.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-300319155621-2052940.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-300319155714-20532337.jpeg)
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Post by: Laitch on March 30, 2019, 11:08:46 PM
Then there is this observation (https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/your-questions-answered-march-2013/) from your friends at the MOT.
Post by: lysy40 on March 31, 2019, 02:36:16 AM
Post by: DJEwen on March 31, 2019, 04:28:05 AM
I think the use of the rear light to indicate left turn only could result in a rear collision. If drivers have been following you before and after you have turned left, it is likely they will be expecting a right turn to be indicated by the rear light and focusing on it instead of the bar indicator. That could cause their running up on you. Using both rear lenses as double strength tail and brake ilights would be a better use. The bar end indicators alone should be sufficient to indicate turns.
Then there is this observation (https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/your-questions-answered-march-2013/) from your friends at the MOT.
It’s the LHS I’ve not wired up, Laitch. The reason the Motogadget M Blaze PIN indicators are still on the frame are to comply with the separation distance as indicated in your MOT chat.
Don’t forget the turn signals are still on the back of the frame. So when turning right all RHS indicators on the headlight right, bar end right, frame right and licence plate right, blink right. When turning left all the equivalent turn signals on the LHS of the moto blink left but the LHS of the numberplate light doesn’t as I haven’t connected it. If I wired it up as you suggest, when I’m indicating LEFT, everything lights up on the left but then I would have a lamp on the RIGHT hand side of the moto (as that’s where the plate is mounted) blinking along with them. I think that would be more confusing.
In Poland, the rear light must be in the center of the vehicleStill Scotland when I look out the window :giggles
Post by: natalena on March 31, 2019, 07:48:27 AM
I'm with Laitch though. As a Mini S driver, I would most likely be mesmerized by the brake light and go for you like a moth.
You should have a buddy take a dusk picture of you running a country road, with long time exposure, it'd probably look way cool.
Post by: DJEwen on March 31, 2019, 08:07:52 AM
With a little forethought, making all right turns to get to a destination shouldn't be excessive work. problem solved.
I'm with Laitch though. As a Mini S driver, I would most likely be mesmerized by the brake light and go for you like a moth.
You should have a buddy take a dusk picture of you running a country road, with long time exposure, it'd probably look way cool.
For real? You both think I should have a light blinking on the RIGHT of the bike when I want to turn LEFT!
The only thing you’ll be mesmerised by is the retina burning Motogadget turn signals.
Anyway, if I wire them both up it’s an MOT fail due to insufficient spacing. I’ll still do the seat mod but can’t gwt the upholsterer until Mid May.
Post by: Laitch on March 31, 2019, 09:36:33 AM
For real? You both think I should have a light blinking on the RIGHT of the bike when I want to turn LEFT!Very funny.
I transposed your wiring scheme. I think for distracted drivers, warning lights need to be symmetrical. There's no payoff for a left turn indication to be more emphatic or visible than a right turn, and that doing so might mislead drivers following you that are more interested in giving themselves pedicures while assessing road conditions. That's the only point I was struggling to make.
Post by: natalena on March 31, 2019, 09:41:07 AM
Seriously though, a separation from center for signals is what the human brain processing needs, especially for average or distracted drivers. I've seen customs with signals 4-5cm outboard from the brakelight, which looks tidy, but accomplishes little for awareness.
Post by: DJEwen on April 03, 2019, 12:42:33 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-030419124105-2067940.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on April 05, 2019, 03:47:32 PM
https://youtu.be/WoySLUezdIg (https://youtu.be/WoySLUezdIg)
Post by: DJEwen on April 06, 2019, 02:41:35 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-060419141232-20801213.jpeg)
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Post by: Postman on April 06, 2019, 04:13:30 PM
Post by: DJEwen on April 06, 2019, 04:21:54 PM
Nice bike! Where are those mirrors? Do you have any photo of this radiator grill and what material you use?
Hi Postman.
Thanks. Bought the mirrors on eBay. Details on the grill, mesh type etc are slightly further back in the thread, specifically post 326 onwards (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10875.msg108482.html#msg108482).
Post by: DJEwen on April 07, 2019, 03:30:21 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-070419152751-20961184.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-070419152724-20952061.jpeg)
Post by: Postman on April 08, 2019, 05:25:10 AM
Hi Postman.
Thanks. Bought the mirrors on eBay. Details on the grill, mesh type etc are slightly further back in the thread, specifically post 326 onwards (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10875.msg108482.html#msg108482).
Thanks! Made an order of those Revotec pull through ties. Now I have to find net for the protector. I still have original radiator protection and maybe I can use that.
I was looking those aluminium mask nets but they were not stiff enough.
Post by: DJEwen on April 08, 2019, 05:36:30 AM
Thanks! Made an order of those Revotec pull through ties. Now I have to find net for the protector. I still have original radiator protection and maybe I can use that.
I was looking those aluminium mask nets but they were not stiff enough.
It was some Stainless Steel 5 Mesh I used, if you cut it smart enough the left and right edges tuck into the sides of the radiator, I also bought some rubber edging strip to dress the upper and lower edges. That combined with your pull through ties makes for a tidy job.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223441616108
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-080419053326-21001106.jpeg)
Post by: Postman on April 08, 2019, 05:48:31 AM
Post by: DJEwen on April 15, 2019, 12:50:10 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-150419124444-21062123.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-150419124454-2107490.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-150419124458-2107438.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-150419124541-2109491.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on April 15, 2019, 01:30:45 PM
Unable to obtain exact replacements for the broken thermistors and unable to find a work around, I removed the working thermistors from the faulty sender and the faulty ones from the working sender then combined the two together - I now have a working fuel light at 4L. This concludes the bike build.:clap: :2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on April 17, 2019, 08:43:39 AM
(https://www.pipeburn.com/home/2019/04/17/special-k-1985-bmw-k100.html)
Photography by Niall Porter Photography: https://www.facebook.com/niallporterphoto/ (https://www.facebook.com/niallporterphoto/)
Thanks to everyone who assisted me throughout the build :2thumbup:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083829-21102026.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083847-2116980.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083854-2118197.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083836-21142019.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083902-2120647.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083854-2118803.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083854-2118197.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083915-21241370.jpeg)
Post by: duckytran on April 17, 2019, 09:35:08 AM
Post by: DJEwen on April 17, 2019, 03:22:12 PM
Superb build David! You've hit the big time with Pipeburn. Love the pic of you in motion. Hopefully, you won't put her up for cheap bidding anytime soon. :clap: :clap: :bmwsmile
Thank you, Sir! Yeah, I’m pretty pleased, once I saw the photos from the shoot I though “these need shared”
Hmmm, not sure I’ll ever let her go now.
Post by: duckytran on April 17, 2019, 04:47:48 PM
Thank you, Sir! Yeah, I’m pretty pleased, once I saw the photos from the shoot I though “these need shared”
Hmmm, not sure I’ll ever let her go now.
You can accumulate like me. That's if the wife permits. One K-bike, 2 airheads, and a Vespa. I just finished this baby.
Post by: DJEwen on April 17, 2019, 05:09:20 PM
You can accumulate like me. That's if the wife permits. One K-bike, 2 airheads, and a Vespa. I just finished this baby.
That’s a cracking shot! I’d love to do an airhead next, or at least just something nice and easy with carbs!
Post by: DJEwen on April 22, 2019, 07:56:22 AM
Post by: natalena on April 22, 2019, 10:40:45 AM
Post by: DJEwen on April 26, 2019, 08:04:19 AM
Thanks for taking us along on the journey! Well thought out and integrated build, with great images. Congrats.
You're all very welcome, it's been a pleasure. Thanks to the Motobrick family as a whole and the site for allowing me a platform to document :2thumbup:
The bike has also featured in Bikebound: http://www.bikebound.com/2019/04/24/revive-bmw-k100-street-scrambler/ (http://www.bikebound.com/2019/04/24/revive-bmw-k100-street-scrambler/)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083836-2114284.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083847-2116908.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083829-21102081.jpeg)
Post by: Markus77 on April 26, 2019, 08:17:13 AM
Post by: DJEwen on April 26, 2019, 08:20:48 AM
Amazing job!! Absolutely beautiful bike - enjoy riding it:)
Thank you for the kind words, Markus! :2thumbup:
Post by: DJEwen on April 30, 2019, 03:43:54 PM
Post by: daveson on May 01, 2019, 02:38:37 AM
You have definitely learnt a stack about bricks with this build.
Good job, that bag is a great idea too. That triangle bit often looks odd, but on your bike it's a natural.
Post by: DJEwen on May 15, 2019, 06:43:58 AM
Wow, what a massive project!
You have definitely learnt a stack about bricks with this build.
Good job, that bag is a great idea too. That triangle bit often looks odd, but on your bike it's a natural.
Thanks, Dave. Yeah, its been a quick learning curve but lots of knowledge gained both in this forum and the garage, I reckon I could do another much quicker, I have one wrapped up at the bottom of my garden actually..
I'm pleased with the frame bags, I have seen someone who sells leather triangle bags butt the three points seemed quite aggressive and i felt a flat lower line would flow better - they are damn handy for spare fuses, hose clips and such like.
Post by: DJEwen on May 21, 2019, 09:15:48 AM
That's 2742 miles complete since the build was finished. The group were mostly riding super naked's and were really quick but the K kept up fantastically well, even on the Scout tires and even in the rain. The bike seemed popular and many seemed impressed that it was still in their mirrors even in the twisties!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084741-2138762.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084850-21512084.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084913-2154222.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084905-21532373.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084900-21521166.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519090131-217419.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519090126-21721568.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084836-21491432.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084843-21501549.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084810-21441170.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084813-21452294.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084820-21471945.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084756-21421771.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084737-21382155.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084751-2141339.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084831-2148888.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084824-2147719.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084917-21551272.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084937-21591348.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084939-2158147.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084923-21571562.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084929-21571900.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519090122-21721750.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519090131-21731933.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084957-216126.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519084952-21601911.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 21, 2019, 09:28:15 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085109-21632463.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519092536-21761805.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085115-21642148.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085104-21632097.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085135-2167953.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085126-2166719.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085121-2165743.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on May 21, 2019, 09:37:30 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085152-2170218.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085139-216867.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on May 21, 2019, 02:48:51 PM
While the fresh paint on the fender bracket was drying I took a look around the filthy moto to access the weekends road damage and came across the below - Does this mean i'll need to replace the crankshaft to timing cover seal and likely the timing cover gasket? It was a new seal, is it possible its leaking because I incorrectly seated it at the correct depth?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085152-2170218.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085139-216867.jpeg)
Looks like some pup marked it and said "this bad-ass ride is MINE now!" Great pics, and looked like a stellar outing.
Post by: Laitch on May 21, 2019, 02:58:29 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 22, 2019, 05:45:40 AM
Looks like some pup marked it and said "this bad-ass ride is MINE now!" Great pics, and looked like a stellar outing.
Good shout, you're probably right! It was a great weekend, tiring but great banter with a great group/mix of people.
Like natalena, I'm not convinced that stain was caused by oil coming from within the cover, especially if there isn't an oil track leading downward below the cover. Remove it from the cover and see if it reappears.
Ok, Laitch, I'll give it a was and see what like.
Post by: Laitch on May 22, 2019, 03:51:43 PM
I'll give it a was and see what like.You shouldn't write with your mouth full. :giggles
Post by: DJEwen on May 24, 2019, 04:18:57 AM
You shouldn't write with your mouth full. :giggles
:giggles *wash
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-210519085139-216867.jpeg)
Confirmed - Dog Piss... Phew. :giggles
Post by: natalena on May 24, 2019, 06:54:32 AM
And somewhere out there is a dejected Boxer telling his mates "Honest, it was MY super-rad brick, and it's nicked already! Gone!"
Confirmed - Dog Piss... Phew. :giggles
Good to hear it wasn't a cat, as they do devious shite.
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2019, 07:09:43 AM
Confirmed - Dog Piss... Phew. :gigglesWhat's it taste like? I think this was some sort of perverse Gaelic test of diagnostic skill. :bmwsmile
Post by: DJEwen on May 31, 2019, 05:52:27 AM
What's it taste like? I think this was some sort of perverse Gaelic test of diagnostic skill. :bmwsmile
Tangy, needed some salt.
Post by: Laitch on May 31, 2019, 06:52:13 AM
Post by: DJEwen on May 31, 2019, 07:29:11 AM
Thanks for the update. The UK Kennel Club might have trajectory charts to consult if you want to determine the breed.
:giggles
Post by: DJEwen on June 17, 2019, 02:11:21 PM
Anyway, I’m 3277 miles in now, the moto has her 2nd MOT in a couple of weeks (since the build).
I had managed to rub away the exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe closest to the shift lever while riding and it became all tatty. Tonight I removed the pipe, trashed the damaged wrap, re-wrapped the pipe then I wrapped some leftover stainless mesh I had from doing the radiator grill around the area where my foot pivots around the shift lever to protect it from future damage, I tied it all in with stainless lock-wire.
Post by: Laitch on June 17, 2019, 02:23:02 PM
I was attempting to share some of my photos from the latest modification but it appears I may have reached my limit of 400 uploads,. Does anyone know if there is a limit and that my 400 even mark is just coincidental or if this is a separate issue?I just read that the limit is 20 per post and 1000 per thread. Try post a photo to a different thread to experiment.
Post by: DJEwen on June 17, 2019, 02:56:01 PM
I just read that the limit is 20 per post and 1000 per thread. Try post a photo to a different thread to experiment.
The issue is when I upload to the folder not to the post, I use the bulk upload function as usual, they load up individually until a tick appears on each, then return to the folder and there are no photographs.
Post by: Laitch on June 17, 2019, 03:26:11 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 17, 2019, 03:41:18 PM
I know this isn't an imaginative response but have you tried loading them one-at-a-time? How many are you trying to bulk upload?
I’ve just tried a single image upload via the bulk upload function and it uploaded and ticked in the upload section but it didn’t appear in the album. I tried the normal individual image upload and it starts to upload then does nothing. I was only trying to upload 5 at a time initially.
Shame as a really cool motorcycle photographer approached me about 3 weeks ago wishing to shoot my K, we’re planning on meeting to shoot some night this week/next week and I’d have liked to share the images with y’all.
Post by: almostordinary on June 17, 2019, 08:35:54 PM
Post by: Laitch on June 17, 2019, 09:30:31 PM
had to resize all my images to have less MB then they uploaded fine. Also make sure they aren't png files.I haven't had problems with png files unless they were smaller than 5KB. The auto-sizer here should take care of most resizing issues and I agree with almostordinary about resizing them in your case, DJ. Their brilliance is probably disrupting the system. :giggles
What size are these errant images?
Post by: DJEwen on June 18, 2019, 05:16:46 AM
I was having a similar problem.. had to resize all my images to have less MB then they uploaded fine. Also make sure they aren't png files. mid-res jpg files finally uploaded after going through the same issues you're having.
I haven't had problems with png files unless they were smaller than 5KB. The auto-sizer here should take care of most resizing issues and I agree with almostordinary about resizing them in your case, DJ. Their brilliance is probably disrupting the system. :giggles
What size are these errant images?
They are just standard iPhone shots like the other 400 story telling images. Any recommendations on software for resizing? This is a ball ache.
Post by: Laitch on June 18, 2019, 09:47:50 AM
This is a ball ache.To tell the truth, it's tempting just let you suffer for a while with your stylish moto, nascent modeling career, productive employment, innate mechanical ability and 'nad problem but Macs have a basic image application included named Preview and Windows probably has a similar one. Just move the images from phone to computer and resize them using the features provided.
I've yet to bother using a high or even medium quality smartphone for imaging because I'm not inclined to share my life with voyeurs but I'll probably get one to see why photo manipulation is baffling what otherwise seem like reasonably competent people here.
Post by: Filmcamera on June 18, 2019, 11:04:00 AM
Post by: DJEwen on June 18, 2019, 02:32:32 PM
To tell the truth, it's tempting just let you suffer for a while with your stylish moto, nascent modeling career, productive employment, innate mechanical ability and 'nad problem but Macs have a basic image application included named Preview and Windows probably has a similar one. Just move the images from phone to computer and resize them using the features provided.
I've yet to bother using a high or even medium quality smartphone for imaging because I'm not inclined to share my life with voyeurs but I'll probably get one to see why photo manipulation is baffling what otherwise seem like reasonably competent people here.
I use an android phone but there is probably an iphone version of the software I use called 'photo and picture resizer' it is very simple to use. I just open a photo I want to resize on the program chose the size I want (I normally use the smallest of the standard options which is 25% of the original size). The program resizes it and then I normally add it to mt dropbox so I can later add it to my motobrick gallery.
Like working on the moto isn’t challenging enough, I now need to piss around uploading, resizing, moving, transferring, re-uploading and posting. I like to come out of the garage, pour a fine single malt, crack a beer then upload my efforts in a single touch and write a less than interesting speel on my endeavours.
I’ll have a look at said resizing tools... :brb.. maybe
Post by: Laitch on June 18, 2019, 03:40:16 PM
I like to come out of the garage, pour a fine single malt, crack a beer then upload my efforts in a single touch and write a less than . . .Maybe you should have a volunteer count the shots and pints occurring before your uploading. That might be elucidating.
Post by: DJEwen on June 19, 2019, 11:43:24 AM
Maybe you should have a volunteer count the shots and pints occurring before your uploading. That might be elucidating.
I'm generally not feeling it until round 3ish...
Anyway.. some resizing later, and this isn't very exciting at all, but as I was saying, I had managed to rub away the exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe closest to the shift lever while riding and it became all tatty. Tonight I removed the pipe, trashed the damaged wrap, re-wrapped the pipe then I wrapped some leftover stainless mesh I had from doing the radiator grill around the area where my foot pivots around the shift lever to protect it from future damage, I tied it all in with stainless lock-wire.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190619113955-22162393.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190619113734-2212389.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190619113735-2213751.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190619113735-2213439.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190619113737-2215913.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on June 19, 2019, 01:41:57 PM
Anyway.. some resizing later, and this isn't very exciting at all, . . .Speak for yourself. I'm astonished!
Post by: DJEwen on June 19, 2019, 05:31:59 PM
Speak for yourself. I'm astonished!
Always a pleasure, L.
Post by: DJEwen on June 20, 2019, 06:39:48 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-200619063742-22171029.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-200619063745-221911.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on June 20, 2019, 02:35:21 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 21, 2019, 05:35:01 AM
Wow, those are the footpeg's that are 6 or 7 piece units, I used to have for 2-up riding. I haven't seen them on any other K except yours.
Really, are they uncommon? I thought they were standard.
Yes, they were a pest to put together with so many components under tension whilst attempting not to scratch the new powder coat.
Post by: Laitch on June 21, 2019, 01:38:38 PM
Post by: DJEwen on June 21, 2019, 03:02:37 PM
From a distance, it looks like you've got a Harris Tweed thing going on those pipes. :2thumbup:
Och aye.
Post by: DJEwen on June 25, 2019, 11:53:28 AM
Post by: DJEwen on June 26, 2019, 05:18:23 AM
MOT tomorrow, time to bolt back on the legal yellow number-plate.
The Angry Mule passed with flying colors again, zero advisorys. 3409 miles covered.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-260619051615-2223240.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-260619051615-22232285.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on June 26, 2019, 05:10:59 PM
There’s a massive motorcycle gathering next weekend and I’m going to enter the Brick in the show.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-260619170839-2225228.jpeg)
Post by: RMT on July 06, 2019, 11:43:13 AM
I have just finished reading your entire thread. Very inspirational and detailed. I have an 85 K100RT in very good condition that I am going to turn into a scrambler type bike. Your details included in your thread about the build has given me the motivation that it is possible to make a great bike out of the old brick.
Thanks for writing the tread and including all the pictures. Your bike looks fantastic.
Cheers
Rick
Post by: DJEwen on July 07, 2019, 12:51:48 PM
HI Dave
I have just finished reading your entire thread. Very inspirational and detailed. I have an 85 K100RT in very good condition that I am going to turn into a scrambler type bike. Your details included in your thread about the build has given me the motivation that it is possible to make a great bike out of the old brick.
Thanks for writing the tread and including all the pictures. Your bike looks fantastic.
Cheers
Rick
Hi Rick,
That’s quite possibly the most positive feedback I’ve ever had on my build on this platform, thanks very much. I’m glad it’s been inspirational.
Good luck with your build, if you have the time it’s worth documenting it. Give me a shout if I can help you out with anything.
Cheers
Dave
Post by: DJEwen on July 13, 2019, 12:54:25 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-130719124745-22591167.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-130719124815-22711405.jpeg)
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-130719124836-22731048.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 16, 2019, 05:07:22 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-150719150315-22741798.jpeg)
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160719045811-2301390.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 16, 2019, 01:53:59 PM
Current status, bike is up on the lift partially stripped. The battery was disconnected for 4 days and upon reconnecting the Acewell Speedo seemed to no longer be picking up RPM. After a couple of failed tests Acewell asked me to undertake, the speedo has been removed to be returned to Acewell for repair or replacement under warranty.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160719133503-23051641.jpeg)
Today, after much research, I ordered some new tyres. The Heidenau K60’s have covered 3760 miles and have done well however the rear has squared off so much that it’s really not a very nice experience when it rocks over the edge. The front is still quite round and arguably has plenty life but they will make a nice wall ornament in the garage.
Front:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160719133440-23041793.jpeg)
Rear:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160719133417-23031299.jpeg)
I’ve ordered a set of Metzeler Tourance, both rear tyres in the following fitments: 120/80-18 (TT) & 140/80-17. I’ll reverse the rotation of the front mounted rear this time. They appear more road friendly but still retain an aggressive look I think, well, fingers crossed anyway.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160719133949-23061896.jpeg)
Post by: DJEwen on July 19, 2019, 06:13:56 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190719180532-2307109.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190719180532-2307109.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190719180806-23122029.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190719180846-2314389.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190719180816-2313315.jpeg)
Post by: Supershooter on July 19, 2019, 09:46:50 PM
Supershooter
Post by: DJEwen on July 20, 2019, 04:29:21 AM
Why do you put a rear tire on the front and then reverse its orientation?
Supershooter
This is my understanding of it: The first reason is because I have no choice with this type as there is no 18” front option. The second reason is because these tyres, like many others unless otherwise stated are directional because of the way they are manufactured in that the rubber is wrapped rotationally around the tyre, this is suited to the back wheel as it’s delivering the forward momentum. The front wheel does nearly all of the braking however which would be opposing forces to the manufacturer rotation, by reversing the front rotation, when you load the tyre under braking the forces are applied in the correct direction.
Post by: DJEwen on August 23, 2019, 06:09:08 AM
https://youtu.be/3Arx07mOfag (https://youtu.be/3Arx07mOfag)
Motobricker's of this forum and Vogle's trouble shooting guide told me that my 34 year old Water Temperature Sensor had failed. I ordered a new one, drained the coolant, dropped the radiator and removed the offending item. It was difficult to get at with a socket and long reach socket so I cut through the connector then removed with a standard socket. Others have said it's easy to get at by removing the air box, that's debatable but it did give me to opportunity to check my coolant, which was still immaculately clean so was saved to be returned to the cooling system.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-060819143710-23591713.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-060819143852-2360892.jpeg)
I tested then installed the new sensor, put the bike back together, added the coolant, started her and let her get up to temperature, the fan kicked in and out so I took her out on the road. Out on the road the bike would miss-fire and splutter under wide open throttle demand. I went home, pulled the plugs, cleaned them with brake cleaner, blowtorch a wire brush then re-gapped them to 0.6-0.7mm. It was evident they had been fuel saturated during the failure of the old temperature sensor. I reinstated them and went back out on the road, the misfire under WOT had been eradicated.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160819150054-23681400.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-160819150121-2369164.jpeg)
That weekend I went out on a 'spirited' run with a few others. It was pretty much WOT blasts trying to avoid the fast moving rain clouds. The bike managed 140+ miles with no issues and upon the final 1 mile stretch from my house under WOT the bike began to miss and splutter again.
I put the bike on the lift and pulled and tested the HT Leads. I couldn't get a reading from 2 of the leads but that may have been down to reach of my multi meter probes. I wasn't able to pull the HT Leads apart and restore them during the build as they are sealed units but I did the best I could to clean them up, looking in the ends of them now and they are quite tatty looking so due a replacement (now there is more budget for that).
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-180819164707-23765.jpeg)
I tested both coils, #1/4 read 2.6 on the input but only 10.5 on the output (should be around 12.6)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190819132424-2385971.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-190819132356-23831638.jpeg)
I ordered a replacement used coil from Motorworks and a new set of RAM Power leads from BSK Speedworks (reasonably priced) tested them and installed them in the moto.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230819051328-2394961.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230819051322-2393539.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-230819051328-23942088.jpeg)
I took the bike out on the road and the missfire has again been erradicated. All is well. Until the next time.
Additionally and unfortunately, again the 4L thermistor in the fuel level sender has failed and I now have a permanently illuminated fuel light again. Frustrating. I have been in communication with Digikey, Mouser, Future Electronics, RS Components and most recently Microchip Technology and no one can provide nor manufacture any 600 Ohms at 25°C, 0.5 watts and negative temperature coefficient type thermistor's that are used in the early pre-float type fuel level senders. What I'm told by all these suppliers is that BMW would have had the thermistor's specifically manufactured for the production of the early K series. Mouser have suggested I go directly to Panasonic, they appear to be the only people left. How lucky do ya feel...
Post by: DJEwen on August 27, 2019, 11:38:27 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-270819113218-24312315.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-270819113154-24301547.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-270819113148-2429817.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-270819113127-24281507.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-270819113113-24272209.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on August 27, 2019, 03:13:26 PM
Additionally and unfortunately, again the 4L thermistor in the fuel level sender has failed and I now have a permanently illuminated fuel light again. Frustrating. I have been in communication with Digikey, Mouser, Future Electronics, RS Components and most recently Microchip Technology and no one can provide nor manufacture any 600 Ohms at 25°C, 0.5 watts and negative temperature coefficient type thermistor's that are used in the early pre-float type fuel level senders. What I'm told by all these suppliers is that BMW would have had the thermistor's specifically manufactured for the production of the early K series. Mouser have suggested I go directly to Panasonic, they appear to be the only people left. How lucky do ya feel...
Have you not got a fuel sender in the parts bike ?
Post by: DJEwen on August 27, 2019, 03:28:07 PM
Have you not got a fuel sender in the parts bike ?
No, Skunky, it’s the later float type.
Post by: Skunky on August 27, 2019, 04:08:16 PM
No, Skunky, it’s the later float type.If your only using the fuel light you should be able to use the float type or the older type especially as your using a non stock speedo and idiot lights. Mine is a 90 and has the float but I only had the light as standard. When I fitted the cheap chinese speedo I was able to use it for the gauge. I think the tank is the same on both.
Post by: DJEwen on September 03, 2019, 05:35:13 AM
https://youtu.be/8wjvJrtQxqA (https://youtu.be/8wjvJrtQxqA)
https://youtu.be/sTE9hR6l3aU (https://youtu.be/sTE9hR6l3aU)
Post by: Laitch on September 03, 2019, 08:19:49 AM
Post by: volador on September 03, 2019, 01:37:16 PM
Post by: DJEwen on September 03, 2019, 05:12:54 PM
Well done, David!
Thanks, Laitch.
Good on you! A GS type in your future, maybe?
Thanks, Volador. Yes, I think so. I’ll need to test a few things but I do really like the look of the GS, I quite favour the Khaki green ones.
Post by: volador on September 03, 2019, 06:11:19 PM
I quite favour the Khaki green ones.
But of course with leather GS seat, trim and accessories :bmwsmile
Post by: DJEwen on September 11, 2019, 09:32:47 AM
Before I clean and polish my bike and dig out my best wardrobe, I would kindly ask you to please donate what you can for this meaningful cause and help me reach my target by clicking the link below and supporting me.
For your uncles, your brothers, your fathers and friends. Donate what you can, for their lives need not end.
Thanking you kindly,
David
https://www.gentlemansride.com/rider/DavidEwen317917 (https://www.gentlemansride.com/rider/DavidEwen317917)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-110919093109-24531580.jpeg)
Post by: johnny on September 11, 2019, 09:43:53 AM
if yous would stay away from them longhair scottish highland cattle calves maybe yous would not be mentaly ill...
Screenshot_20190911-084614.jpg (45.51 kB . 535x576 - viewed 780 times)j o
Post by: DJEwen on September 11, 2019, 09:58:44 AM
greetings...
if yous would stay away from them longhair scottish highland cattle calves maybe yous would not be mentaly ill...
j o
A hink we need tae spend mare time wae the Coo's.
Post by: DJEwen on October 01, 2019, 09:11:07 AM
I was the 2nd highest fundraiser in Aberdeen of 116 persons and 5th highest fundraiser in Scotland out of 537 registered riders, this was only achieved thanks to your kind donations, thank you very much!
The event was covered by my local P&J paper: https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/aberdeen/1854281/dapper-bikers-ride-through-aberdeen-for-mens-health-charities/ (https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/aberdeen/1854281/dapper-bikers-ride-through-aberdeen-for-mens-health-charities/)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-011019090755-24621601.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-011019091019-24722109.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-011019090755-24622048.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-011019090759-2470274.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-011019090758-24691527.jpeg)
Post by: bobvans on October 06, 2019, 11:05:46 PM
As I mentioned before, the original painted mild steel mesh on the radiator had deteriorated and rusted. I ordered stainless mesh, stainless steel etching primer and some gloss black spray paint with a view to replacing like for like without the concern of the mesh rusting when stone chipped.
What a great idea! I removed the radiator cowl as my first step towards my naked bike and I forgot that it had a mesh screen to protect the radiator. With it removed, I have no protection against flying rocks or whatever else might get kicked up. I'm going to follow your lead. How did you mount the mesh to the radiator?
Post by: Laitch on October 07, 2019, 12:01:34 AM
How did you mount the mesh to the radiator?Serve yourself on Page 14, bobvans.
Post by: bobvans on October 07, 2019, 12:32:31 AM
Serve yourself on Page 14, bobvans.
Ahhh... pull thru ties. I glanced right over that! Thanks Laitch!
Post by: DJEwen on October 07, 2019, 04:49:27 AM
Ahhh... pull thru ties. I glanced right over that! Thanks Laitch!
Hi Bobvans, as Laitch said. Additionally there's some more information and links at post 374 onward on page 15.
Post by: DJEwen on October 07, 2019, 02:52:57 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-071019144942-2474501.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on October 07, 2019, 03:41:07 PM
Post by: Martin on October 07, 2019, 04:20:09 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: johnny on October 07, 2019, 04:30:50 PM
they gotts spray on bugg gutts too... good for headlights and windscreens and helmet shield... can find it at the hardley ableson dealer...
j o
Post by: Martin on October 07, 2019, 04:57:47 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on October 07, 2019, 05:00:42 PM
Post by: DJEwen on October 08, 2019, 05:46:43 AM
It looks like you might have been jumping grouse with that.
Almost! I was away for an overnighter to Oban on the West Coast of Scotland with the "On yer Bike" group that I went to the Isle of Sky with in May this year. It rained the whole trip, that combined with greasy roads and fallen leaves made for a challenging ride through the difficult twisty Scottish roads. There were only a few big moments, a couple 90 degree slides and Steve on the GS had a brush with a Deer, visibility sucked but overall it was still a great laugh and the beer in the hotel was cold. A good 460 miles covered all in.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045945-2498815.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045849-24802340.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045850-24802331.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045854-24852407.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045854-24852436.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045856-2487950.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045859-24881024.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045859-24881788.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045907-24901727.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045910-24921133.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045915-24941460.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045910-2492221.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045918-24962355.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-081019045918-24961229.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on October 08, 2019, 07:57:01 AM
Post by: Skunky on October 18, 2019, 12:13:32 PM
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Five-Seller-Painting-Motorcycle-Pictures-Decoration/dp/B07RBRN7W3/ref=sr_1_61?crid=2B4XBDE0AKJQM&keywords=bmw+k100&qid=1571415005&sprefix=bmw+k100%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-61
Post by: Laitch on October 18, 2019, 12:24:03 PM
Post by: DJEwen on October 21, 2019, 12:54:57 PM
Thanks for posting these well-wrought ride photos, David.
You’re very welcome, Laitch.
Had to do a double take when I saw this Dave. :johnny
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Five-Seller-Painting-Motorcycle-Pictures-Decoration/dp/B07RBRN7W3/ref=sr_1_61?crid=2B4XBDE0AKJQM&keywords=bmw+k100&qid=1571415005&sprefix=bmw+k100%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-61
I did a quintuple take. :-) Even at that, the subject doesn't hold a candle to David's Revive but it is surprising to see it sold as wall art. I guess the 'tweens have more disposable allowance these days. :-)
Close, but no cigar! Thanking you for the kind words. :D
Post by: DJEwen on October 21, 2019, 01:01:55 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-211019125650-25141203.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on October 29, 2019, 12:48:16 AM
You’re very welcome, Laitch.
Close, but no cigar! Thanking you for the kind words. :D
Actually I think its the one that Dave posted up as inspiration at the beginning.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10836.0.html
Post by: Laitch on October 29, 2019, 02:45:23 AM
Actually I think its the one that Dave posted up as inspiration at the beginning.Unlike the subject in the wall art, Sir Ulrich—Dj's inspiration—doesn't have bar end indicators, fork boots, an LED headlight, bright triple trees, dark mirror housings, stock switch gear, stock front brake master cylinder, or a thin, flared seat.
No cigar. :-) DJ's is as stylish but more practical than either.
Post by: DJEwen on February 13, 2020, 04:02:51 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-130220035420-27101782.jpeg)
Post by: Skunky on February 13, 2020, 04:05:51 AM
Post by: DJEwen on February 13, 2020, 04:16:31 AM
Is that the new house Dave 😀
I wish, Gary! What a fine house it’d make! Unfortunately not, I am however getting Married in there in a couple weeks! :D
Post by: daveson on February 13, 2020, 05:03:29 AM
Post by: Skunky on February 13, 2020, 06:32:29 AM
I wish, Gary! What a fine house it’d make! Unfortunately not, I am however getting Married in there in a couple weeks! :D
Congratulations Dave. I get married tomorrow. Putting Valentine’s Day and the anniversary on the same day 😀✅✅
Post by: DJEwen on February 14, 2020, 02:36:56 AM
Congratulations. Good luck in this new direction you're about to take.
Thanks 112350 I hear it's not painful at the start...
Congratulations Dave. I get married tomorrow. Putting Valentine’s Day and the anniversary on the same day 😀✅✅
WOW! All the best for today, Gary!
Post by: Skunky on February 26, 2020, 01:36:52 PM
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Post by: DJEwen on February 27, 2020, 09:43:54 AM
Congratulations on your Wedding Dave. Hope you and your new wife had a great day too. Love the dress 112350 and hers was lovely too 44271
Thanks, Gary! Day went past in a FLASH!
Re the Kilt... it's called a Kilt because anyone who calls it a dress or a skirt gets Kilt!
Post by: Skunky on February 27, 2020, 01:17:01 PM
Thanks, Gary! Day went past in a FLASH!
Re the Kilt... it's called a Kilt because anyone who calls it a dress or a skirt gets Kilt!
Ha! Here's how a Sassenach wears Tartan. Seems it not just for Sweatie's 112350
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Post by: DJEwen on April 30, 2020, 12:06:31 PM
Ha! Here's how a Sassenach wears Tartan. Seems it not just for Sweatie's 112350
Dapper Dandy!
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2020, 08:50:27 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520073156-32052210.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520073157-32072108.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520073151-3205795.jpeg)
I suspect this may have been caused by either the battery itself being faulty, unlikely but possible but more likely caused by over charging, potentially a faulty voltage regulator? After having seen and heard many horror stories of late with lithium batteries going on fire and the disastrous consequences of these fires, mostly cause by people incorrect trying to extinguish the fire using water, (look up lithium batter fire and water) and the fear of this happening under my backside didn't seem like much fun so I decided to just buy another battery then test the voltage regulator once it arrived, although I have no idea as yet how to test the voltage regulator.
I ordered a Motobatt MB51814, Motobatt call it a hybrid type battery, it's maintenance free, comes with a 2 year warranty when registered, non spill-able, can be mounted in any position, has positive and negative terminals on both the front and back side of the battery but the best part about this battery is that it fits exactly inside the center recess of the K battery tray.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520072435-32031932.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520072434-32032220.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520072429-32012383.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-120520072429-32011824.jpeg)
The Motobatt MB51814 is one of the recommended batteries from Motorworks, plus vat and delivery from them was quoted at £95 ($117) but I found a supplier on Ebay and got it to my door for £75 ($92) all in.
I had a spare hour so I set about installing the new battery but in my excitement I stupidly connected the positive to the negative and fixed down then when I went to attach the negative (to the positive) there was a small spark and I immediately realised what I was doing, I'm unsure what, if any damage can be done from doing this?
I swapped the terminals to their correct positions and went for start, immediately on hitting the start button I couldn't hear the fuel pump priming, the bike just cranked and cranked. I began the fault finding process beginning with all the easy ones, jettronic plug, 4 pin to tank, GPI, clutch etc but nothing. Pulled the #6 fuse and it was intact so I grabbed my multi-meter and checked for voltage across the #6 pins while depressing the start button, got nothing - would this indicate a failed fuel pump relay? This is as far as I got before running out of time, I had planned next to pull the FP relay and check for power in the socket. I have a spare fuel pump relay from the donor bike but it's still boxed up somewhere from the house move.
If anyone has any direction on fault finding the fuel pump issue and or testing of the battery voltage regulator it would be welcomed, I've yet to start searching.
Post by: Laitch on May 12, 2020, 09:05:58 AM
Hello again. Some of you may remember back around post #302 I installed a JMT Lithium-Ion Battery, well, my stupidly expensive battery has developed a very slight but unhealthy bulge, see below:Is your moto subject to freezing temperatures occasionally in storage? Has it been connected to a charger during storage?
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2020, 09:09:36 AM
greetings...
you moto can not be repaired...
will be there tomorrow to haul it away to the crusher...
need you to warsh it...
now you gotts more time for this project...
j o
Haha Joe, don't say that! Yeah... i've got a few hours in the other project so far :D
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2020, 09:12:43 AM
Is your moto subject to freezing temperatures occasionally in storage? Has it been connected to a charger during storage?
Hey Laitch, it had been over November-Feb but I was just riding her 4 weeks ago with no issues. It's not been connected to any type of charger.
Post by: Laitch on May 12, 2020, 09:30:58 AM
It's not been connected to any type of charger.You probably should check the output of the alternator. Anti-Gravity cautions that over 14.5 volts can damage the battery. Do you disconnect the battery ground when your riding it only intermittently. That's something I do.
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2020, 09:39:29 AM
You probably should check the output of the alternator. Anti-Gravity cautions that over 14.5 volts can damage the battery. Do you disconnect the battery ground when your riding it only intermittently. That's something I do.
Yeah, that's the plan but I need to get the bike running first, any thoughts on my other issue? Yeah, I disconnect the negative when not in use.
Post by: Laitch on May 12, 2020, 11:06:01 AM
I began the fault finding process beginning with all the easy ones, jettronic plug, 4 pin to tank, GPI, clutch etc but nothing.What does "but nothing" mean in the context of your troubleshooting these elements?
Pulled the #6 fuse and it was intact so I grabbed my multi-meter and checked for voltage across the #6 pins while depressing the start button, got nothing - would this indicate a failed fuel pump relay? I have a spare fuel pump relay from the donor bike but it's still boxed up somewhere from the house move.
No voltage will be indicated across fuse #6 while the starter is turning unless the FI relay has been energized by a signal from the Hall sensor, so those are two potential sources of failure. Compare the ignition control module values against those in the troubleshooting guide. Check Hall sensor function with a 12V LED as described in the guide. Check all ground connections.
Post by: DJEwen on May 12, 2020, 11:19:07 AM
What does "but nothing" mean in the context of your troubleshooting these elements?
No voltage will be indicated across fuse #6 while the starter is turning unless the FI relay has been energized by a signal from the Hall sensor, so those are two potential sources of failure. Compare the ignition control module values against those in the troubleshooting guide. Check Hall sensor function with a 12V LED as described in the guide. Check all ground connections.
I meant no change.
I have already measured no voltage across fuse #6 as I mentioned earlier. I'll have a further look at he FP relay then the hall sensor. Thanks, Laitch.
Post by: Skunky on May 12, 2020, 06:15:26 PM
Post by: DJEwen on May 13, 2020, 04:01:30 AM
Dave, Before you get in too deep, make sure you haven't disturbed the dreaded 4 pin connector to the fuel tank. I would clean it and reconnect it first as it is the main cause of fuel pump issues.
Hi Gary, I went to the tank 4 pin first, I didn't "clean" it though as my electrical cleaner is another thing still in storage for the house move, just the usual "is there any shit in here, how do the connectors look, is it tight, give it a good blow out" - I'll revisit it with something alcohol based, maybe whisky!
Post by: DJEwen on May 13, 2020, 12:07:37 PM
Dave, Before you get in too deep, make sure you haven't disturbed the dreaded 4 pin connector to the fuel tank. I would clean it and reconnect it first as it is the main cause of fuel pump issues.
Hi Gary, I went to the tank 4 pin first, I didn't "clean" it though as my electrical cleaner is another thing still in storage for the house move, just the usual "is there any shit in here, how do the connectors look, is it tight, give it a good blow out" - I'll revisit it with something alcohol based, maybe whisky!
No joy cleaning the tank 4-pin.
Post by: volador on May 13, 2020, 04:25:58 PM
Post by: Skunky on May 13, 2020, 05:15:41 PM
Skunky put down the Glenmorangie and read bottom of #477 its always the bloody 4-pin
Not for me 😁
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Post by: volador on May 13, 2020, 05:40:27 PM
Not for me 😁Very sexxy! Like the carbon fiber
Post by: volador on May 13, 2020, 05:55:19 PM
honeymoon reverie, bugger hopefully its the FI relay
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2020, 08:49:57 AM
Ahoy Dave congrats on the nuptials! A fine looking couple your a lucky bloke!
honeymoon reverie, bugger hopefully its the FI relay
Thank you Sir for the kind words, shes a fine woman.
Yes, hopefully it is the FI relay, I already took a gamble on it before Laitch suggested the Hall Sensor and ordered a used relay from Motorworks which should be here next week.
In the meantime I went out to work through Vogels fault finding flow chart: Is the fuse ok? Yes, Power from Ignition Switch to pin #86 on Fuel injection relay? Yes 12v Ground from Pin 7 of ECU to Pin #85 of Fuel Injection Relay? - I'm not sure how I'm supposed to execute this test, I know I built this bike but very much a noob in the use of a multimeter, do I just connect a probe to each connection and test for voltage? If yes there was nothing. I'm a little out of my depth here.
Post by: volador on May 14, 2020, 11:28:29 AM
"Ground from Pin 7 of ECU to Pin #85 of Fuel Injection Relay?"
Is a continuity check for wire - 'Ohms Ω' or 'Continuity Check' setting on your VOM
either test lead to Pin85 to Pin7 on ICU plug not ECU plug
you are more concerned at the moment to verify 12V on FI relay when Start Button pressed on Pin87 or Pin87b -the fuel pump leg of circuit
You can check the health of 'current' FI relay removed from moto by applying power +12V to Pin86 and negative to Pin85
then check for continuity through Pin30 to Pin87 or Pin87b
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2020, 03:58:46 PM
Thanks for directing to the Motorworks UK for FI relay. Have been searching for correct part# 61368373700 for the 5-pin relay
"Ground from Pin 7 of ECU to Pin #85 of Fuel Injection Relay?"
Is a continuity check for wire - 'Ohms Ω' or 'Continuity Check' setting on your VOM
either test lead to Pin85 to Pin7 on ICU plug not ECU plug
you are more concerned at the moment to verify 12V on FI relay when Start Button pressed on Pin87 or Pin87b -the fuel pump leg of circuit
You can check the health of 'current' FI relay removed from moto by applying power +12V to Pin86 and negative to Pin85
then check for continuity through Pin30 to Pin87 or Pin87b
You're very welcome re Motorworks, they've been super handy for me for nearly everything K related just arguably not always the most cost effective!
Ignition Control Unit! What, well that explains a lot, clearly the translation from French to English in Vogel's flow chart wasn't perfect. - Thanks for the clarification.
This is my current state of play;
- Pin #86 of FI relay should see +12v: It does.
- Pin #85 of FI relay should see -12v: It reads nothing. However when red lead is on battery positive and black to pin #85 it reads 12v when the start button is depressed.
- Pin #30 of FI relay should see +12v at any time even with ignition off: It reads nothing.
Additionally, I installed halogen bulbs to the injector plugs and got nothing on turn over (across all 4). I also put power directly to the fuel pump and it ran fine.
I need to do the correct ground test, tomorrow. I'll also perform the test of the current relay as you suggest unless you think otherwise from my findings above?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 14, 2020, 04:10:23 PM
Additionally, I installed halogen bulbs to the injector plugs and got nothing on turn over (across all 4). I also put power directly to the fuel pump and it ran fine.
Halogen bulbs draw way too much power from the injector driver. If you use anything, us a 12v LED. I hope the Halogen bulbs didn't damage anything.
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2020, 04:29:01 PM
Halogen bulbs draw way too much power from the injector driver. If you use anything, us a 12v LED. I hope the Halogen bulbs didn't damage anything.
They are just 12v low voltage halogens.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-140520163008-3210304.jpeg)
Post by: alexg on May 14, 2020, 04:41:57 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 14, 2020, 05:55:01 PM
I hope you haven't burned out the driver circuit. If you are lucky, there is a current limiter somewhere in the injector control.
Post by: DJEwen on May 14, 2020, 06:14:04 PM
3 20 watt bulbs will draw 5 amps. The injectors are rated at something like 20ma each or 60ma total. The halogens draw about 83 times as much current as the injectors. You are basically putting a dead short circuit across the transistor that switches the injectors on and off.
I hope you haven't burned out the driver circuit. If you are lucky, there is a current limiter somewhere in the injector control.
Well it seems to be working for everyone else that’s doing them one at a time, Gryph.
Post by: volador on May 14, 2020, 06:17:49 PM
'correct ground test' is verified- you have established ICU Pin7 is providing ground for Pin85 when starter button is depressed
Pin #30 of FI relay should see +12v at any time even with ignition off: It reads nothing.
you need to check wire to FI relay Pin30 as you said should see +12V -maybe sparky sparky no likey
you can jumper Starter relay Pin30 to FI relay Pin30 for +12V for test starting
Post by: DJEwen on May 31, 2020, 06:17:41 AM
'Pin #85 of FI relay should see -12v: It reads nothing. However when red lead is on battery positive and black to pin #85 it reads 12v when the start button is depressed.'
'correct ground test' is verified- you have established ICU Pin7 is providing ground for Pin85 when starter button is depressed
Pin #30 of FI relay should see +12v at any time even with ignition off: It reads nothing.
you need to check wire to FI relay Pin30 as you said should see +12V -maybe sparky sparky no likey
you can jumper Starter relay Pin30 to FI relay Pin30 for +12V for test starting
Ok- I checked the connections in the fuel injection relay socket and all seems well, no issues. The replacement relay arrived and I installed it but I still have no fuel pump. It’s also fantastic weather outside :(
Post by: Laitch on May 31, 2020, 08:09:26 AM
Post by: DJEwen on May 31, 2020, 08:46:58 AM
Have you removed the fuel pump and checked it for operation on the bench. The battery problem and the fuel pump problem could be coincidental.
I have, Laitch. It’s working fine.
I’ve had some mice recently, caught a load. I’m wondering if maybe something has been chewed.
Post by: Laitch on May 31, 2020, 08:51:55 AM
Post by: DJEwen on June 01, 2020, 08:43:00 AM
Is there continuity at your recently cleaned four-pin plug and at the connection between the fuel gauge and the pump?
There is continuity at the four pin. Are you suggesting testing for continuity inside the tank from the 4 pin to the pump? I hadn't done that.
I remember back at Post #239 on page 10 then RBMs reply at #242 he suggests dodgy internals of the old type senders but he may be referring to the thermistors to the fuel level gauge.
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2020, 11:32:34 AM
There is continuity at the four pin. Are you suggesting testing for continuity inside the tank from the 4 pin to the pump?That's what I'm suggesting. icon_cheers
Post by: DJEwen on July 25, 2020, 02:26:08 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5327-250720142207-33142315.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on July 25, 2020, 09:46:09 PM
I picked up a used 2018 R NineT Pure Sport with 1300miles on the clock. It’s an effortless machine to ride.That looks fun! Does Pure Sport translate from German as Send your luggage ahead? :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Martin on July 26, 2020, 12:59:23 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DJEwen on July 26, 2020, 05:16:21 AM
That looks fun! Does Pure Sport translate from German as Send your luggage ahead? :laughing4-giggles:
Meh, I managed with the K!
No Laitch it translates to I wish I had a padded seat or a more ample bum. One of the OZ Kluster Krew has one.
Regards Martin.
Luckily, it has the upgraded seat, and twin gauges from the racer so I have GPI, rev counter fuel gauge :D
Post by: Laitch on July 26, 2020, 09:25:06 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_Mhy2HGvbc
Post by: emdy on August 24, 2020, 10:08:24 AM
Now I'm back and trying to get started and everything is cranking over, but no fuel delivery, no power to fuel pump, no power to gas tank connector, no power to fuse 6, no 12v to pin 85 on fuel pump relay when the starter is pressed.
I tried hotwiring the fuel pump from the fuse box and it whirs right up, so I don't think there is a problem with the pump, or connection from the relay. But I'm sort of stuck on what to check next. I'm sure I messed something up when I was in there last winter.
Post by: DJEwen on August 24, 2020, 11:06:50 AM
Curious if the fuel pump issue was resolved. I'm in a similar situation. I started a scrambler conversion of an 85RS last winter (not as nice as yours). Installed a BEP, did the mod on the flasher for LEDs. Then I got sidetracked by life and pandemics and whatnot.
Now I'm back and trying to get started and everything is cranking over, but no fuel delivery, no power to fuel pump, no power to gas tank connector, no power to fuse 6, no 12v to pin 85 on fuel pump relay when the starter is pressed.
I tried hotwiring the fuel pump from the fuse box and it whirs right up, so I don't think there is a problem with the pump, or connection from the relay. But I'm sort of stuck on what to check next. I'm sure I messed something up when I was in there last winter.
Hi Emdy, I’ve not actually gotten any further with the fault finding. I’m not fully set up at my new place yet and home renovations are at the front of the list so can’t help you out. Could be a good year or so before I get to it, I just bought another bike to get me through in the mean time.
Good luck.
Post by: DJEwen on February 11, 2021, 06:40:28 PM
I still haven’t got a garage at my new house but the K will be moving inside shortly. I’m looking at potentially adding a Motogadget m-unit to move away from problematic/aged relays etc in the hope to fault find the no start issue and also massively reduce the possible no start scenarios.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5327-170419083854-2118197.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on February 11, 2021, 11:28:52 PM
Post by: daveson on February 12, 2021, 02:53:30 PM
I've read the last two pages to try and get a grasp of the no start problem.
I think you say there is no power to pin 30 of the fuel injection relay, but I don't think it's been addressed. I'd run a temporary wire to it.
Next, as others mentioned, I'd test the hall sensors. I'd use a 12Volt, LED test light. You can probably get one cheap at your local hardware. It's a simple easy check. I'll attach photos and a bit, later.
Next I'd check the ICU, using Bert's guide. If all the inputs to the ICU are good, but not the outputs, you probably need to replace it.
Post by: daveson on February 12, 2021, 08:42:58 PM
With the negative battery lead to top left pin, positive to top right, test light clamp on battery positive and probe to lower left pin, the test light should go on. (photo 1)
With probe to lower right pin, the light should go on. (photo 2)
Repeating these tests with the sensors blocked, the light should remain off. (photo 3)
These tests could also be done without removing the hall sensors.
Post by: daveson on February 19, 2021, 08:07:11 PM
Do you have three red wires to battery positive or two? You should have three.
Since you installed the new battery, the bike has not started, and nor have you had power to pin 30 of the fuel relay.
There should be three red wires to battery positive, one to the alternator, one to the fuel relay and one to the starter relay. Some bricks have both relay wires connected with one connector, on some bricks they're separate, so then it would be three wires with three connections. Sometimes they're not bound together, in which case it would be easy to overlook the wire to the fuel relay, it might have fallen in an inconspicuous place.
Hopefully it's that simple.