Post by: johnny on June 05, 2011, 09:38:12 PM
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r605/MBofE/motophotos/e2bb05dc.jpg)
j o
Post by: frankenduck on June 06, 2011, 12:39:08 AM
Post by: leecow on June 06, 2011, 04:51:27 PM
Post by: mystic red on June 06, 2011, 05:00:06 PM
Post by: leecow on June 06, 2011, 05:03:24 PM
Post by: mystic red on June 06, 2011, 05:53:09 PM
Post by: Rick G on June 07, 2011, 06:32:24 AM
I have already been through about 10 sheets of 180 grit wet and dry sandpaper and the tips of a few fingers.
I have had to carefully clean all the paint of the grill section as it is cracking away in places so I can't even give it a quick coat of black because it will crack of and leave me with whits spots all over the grill. It had some sort of insulation glued ti the inside of the side panels and main part if the fairing so that has to be removed so I can get a good coat of colour round the edges.
I reckon that you should be able to apply for a retrospective abortion order on some people.
Once it is finished in a brand new coat of mystic rot it should look just dandy.
I did score of Oz fleabay a very good 3 row core radiator from a very early K100 so I should have no cooling problems in future.
Post by: Scott_ on June 19, 2011, 01:58:06 PM
Got some techron concentrate for the fuel to finish the rest of this tank then I'll do the rest of the spring service some time next week.
Post by: Inge K. on June 20, 2011, 02:31:30 AM
Got an `86 K100RS which have been standing untouched in 7 years 9 months.
Last saturday I got the idea to check if it could be scared back to life.
Changed all fluids, filters, sparkplugs, battery and added some foggin oil to
the cylinders, ignition on...hittin` the button....it fired up directly!!!!
I did expect a lot frozen parts and leaks everywhere....but just minor.
Rear master did need a little bit extra push, but no leak.
Front master very minor leak (just sweating), but gaskets never been changed.
Thats all!!!
All that have been done beside normal service parts during the years is:
At 155K km new gaskets and fluid container on rear master.
At 190K km new cam chain and rails, front rotors and starter brushes.
A whole lot of rear brake switches (have to blame the salted roads for that).
A quite amazing 25 year old bike which have passed 200K km.
Inge K.
Post by: Brickhead on June 20, 2011, 05:04:18 PM
Post by: Inge K. on June 21, 2011, 02:59:29 AM
But the (sadly?) conclusion is...this bike ain`t that old...but the owner is.
Handwrists and back screaming "we prefeer the LT" after a rather short time.
Inge K.
Post by: Chaos on June 22, 2011, 12:38:23 AM
Post by: mystic red on July 03, 2011, 09:34:04 AM
Quote
I'm horrified. We are all lifestyle riders.
electrified my tank bag...
Quote
Designed For A Lifestyle
Powerlet simplifies the purchase and implementation of todays technologically advanced electronics by offering the most complete, expertly engineered, interconnects and appliances. This enables our customers to enjoy a lifestyle utilizing convenient modern electronics.
Post by: frankenduck on July 03, 2011, 09:43:58 AM
Found a screw to replace the allen wrench I had substituting for the clutch lever pivot pin I lost somewhere. The clutch actually works without it, just sloppy. Good as new now ;D
What the heck is that front fender on the K75 in your avatar?
PM me your address and I'll mail you a real clutch pivot.
Post by: k11pfc on July 03, 2011, 04:24:55 PM
Post by: frankenduck on July 04, 2011, 09:09:46 PM
I also wired up one normally open PCB relay and three normally closed PCB relays.
The normally open relay will be used for an altitude switch. Since I'm using a three-way OEM switch to control both the hazards and the altitude plug, the normally open relay isolates that circuit from the hazard circuit.
Two of the normally closed relays will be used to invert the LED turn signals so that they double as running lights that are always on but flash off when the turn signals are used.
The third normally closed relay will be used on the added tail light LEDs so that they serve as tail lights but will flash off when my brake light flasher flashes on to give a "wagging" effect like I have on the K1.
Added tail light wagging LEDs:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/2011motomayhem/6leds.jpg)
Wired up PCB relays:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/2011motomayhem/pcbrelays.jpg)
What the wagging LED tail lights will look like:
1991 K1 Brake Lighting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGEJi6NnB4w#)
Post by: mystic red on July 04, 2011, 10:02:41 PM
Post by: frankenduck on July 04, 2011, 11:30:59 PM
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/2011motomayhem/k75windscreenswtich.jpg)
Post by: jonb on July 05, 2011, 01:37:09 AM
1... installed a eram 2 stage 12v supercharger (http://www.electricsupercharger.com/)...
Wait, a supercharger and nitrous? Why not a turbo instead?
What the wagging LED tail lights will look like:
1991 K1 Brake Lighting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGEJi6NnB4w#)
That should get a bit of attention from those behind you.
Unless they're on the phone >:(
Post by: leecow on July 05, 2011, 02:56:50 PM
Cool stuff. Do you have a standard supplier for the PCB relays?
Post by: frankenduck on July 05, 2011, 05:20:51 PM
Hey Duck,
Cool stuff. Do you have a standard supplier for the PCB relays?
I usually buy them off of Fleabay from China.
I just checked on Fleabay - 15 for $1/ea
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-ea-AROMAT-DS2E-S-DC12V-Relay-12V-DPDT-DIP-NOS-/200626880671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb64b409f#ht_500wt_948 (http://cgi.ebay.com/15-ea-AROMAT-DS2E-S-DC12V-Relay-12V-DPDT-DIP-NOS-/200626880671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb64b409f#ht_500wt_948)
You can order them from places like Newark and Mouser too. Just search for 12V DPDT
Post by: Chaos on July 05, 2011, 08:13:30 PM
Found a screw to replace the allen wrench I had substituting for the clutch lever pivot pin I lost somewhere. The clutch actually works without it, just sloppy. Good as new now ;D
What the heck is that front fender on the K75 in your avatar?
PM me your address and I'll mail you a real clutch pivot.
The fender is early 90's vintage Parabellum "LSR" (land speed record) Pretty rare nowadays. Thanks for the offer duck. PM sent!
Post by: leecow on July 07, 2011, 12:53:17 AM
Before
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/Random%20Junk/P1020049.jpg)
After
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/Random%20Junk/P1020050.jpg)
Post by: leecow on July 08, 2011, 12:30:22 PM
Post by: leecow on July 16, 2011, 10:38:43 PM
Following in Duck's footprints to put LEDs everywhere possible.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/001.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/002.jpg)
Wires will exit the bottom once installed.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/003.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/004.jpg)
Mighty clean solder job if I do say so.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/005.jpg)
It even works!
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/006.jpg)
Opted to completely remove the back half of the reflector rather than cut holes for the LED elements.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/007.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/008.jpg)
Looks nice from the bench. Everything is sealed with clear RTV.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/009.jpg)
And the light was good.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/LED%20Reflector%20Project/010.jpg)
Just wired as running lights at the moment though the final plan is to have them also flash with the turn signals.
Post by: frankenduck on July 19, 2011, 08:17:47 AM
Post by: Laverda on July 20, 2011, 03:04:04 PM
... tank bag frayed like a moe...Just gonna do the same repair on my tank bag harness.
...iron on patches... folded n cut to size... roll it back n hold it with visegripps...
done...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2011/11-07-01%20Wisconsin/020.jpg)
Is there enough "give" in the straps you've put on ? Is there enough of the elasticated webbing inside the sleeve ?
I've got some very thick heavy duty elastic but if I can get away with using stiff webbing then it would hopefully make a stronger repair ?
Do you clip it straight to the tank lip , use the BMW bracket or have you fabricated your own one ?
???
Post by: dbikers on July 21, 2011, 07:42:21 AM
Post by: Lasagna on July 21, 2011, 07:59:59 AM
Next : buying a sledgehammer to ease the screws where fork oil should be poured in 8)
Post by: Laverda on July 21, 2011, 08:01:31 PM
greetings laverda...Thanks for the reply Johnny, good to know, just thought it best to ask as BM seem to fit elasticated straps.
i have done this repair on 2 tank bag bases... one has 50k on it now n is still good...
supplies... patches (http://www.amazon.com/Bondex-Iron-Patches-5x7-Pkg-Black/dp/B000Y3INYI) folded in trimmed to fit metal clip... heavy duty thread... needle... thimble...
roll it back... sew it on... roll it down... exactly as described above... no elastic... no mystery... no boooocheee...
j o
btw Do you clip it straight to the tank lip , use the BMW bracket or have you fabricated your own one ?
Post by: leecow on July 24, 2011, 08:50:43 PM
[adding a few pictures]
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/Random%20Junk/cc.jpg)
Under-tank section is cut to fit and the lower wings attached with the tape shown in http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=460.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=460.0)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/Random%20Junk/cd.jpg)
Under saddle section is secured with more of the Reflectix tape and tucked under the leather edges where possible.
Simple bit of work for very little money and seems to be reasonably effective. Warmth is still apparent but never comes close to the uncomfortable heat which used to roll off the side covers.
Post by: frankenduck on July 28, 2011, 08:38:50 PM
Air, fuel and oil filters.
Mobil 1 engine oil.
Mobil 1 140-75 gear oil in the tranny with Guard Dog Moly additive
Red Line synthetic 90-75 with Guard Dog Moly additive
Red Line Water Wetter with 40/60 Prestone/distilled water
Clutch and drive shaft splines lubed with Wurth/Honda magic elixir
Fork oil changed (I'll put the Works Performance springs in over the winter)
Installed freshly rebuilt/reconditioned Ohlins shock that I scored on Fleabay last month
Installed new custom seat by Rick Mayer (still needs some tweaking but I'still have the Russell Day Long to use when I send it back to him for tweaking.)
I actually had most of this done last month, Then my final thing was changing the coolant. Much to my dismay at the very last moment some oil appeared in the coolant - so I had to swap in another ooil/water pump with good seals. What a waste of four quarts of Mobil 1.
Replaced front brakes a couple of thousand miles ago and just did the rear pads so I only have to ride it and add gas/oil for the next 10,000 miles since the PR2s have lots of tread left.
New NGK iridium plugs
Now it just needs a bath.....
Post by: frankenduck on July 28, 2011, 10:05:40 PM
Post by: rudolf35 on July 30, 2011, 04:25:04 PM
As a bonus I scored real German leather cases with mounts for mu R60/50/5 project.
I would say it has been a good K day!
;D
Post by: pallum on July 31, 2011, 02:11:05 AM
Finished annexing the garage...
Post by: frankenduck on August 01, 2011, 08:47:30 PM
Installing a K1100 transmission so I could
Install a 32:11 paralever final drive
With an Ohlins shock
And braided stainless rear brake lines (it already has them in the front)
And I finally got around to installing the rear pegs on the K1100RS peg plates that I put on it a few months ago.
Film at 11:00.
My Morgan Carbtune showed up in the mail today so I also synch'd the TBs.
Post by: Ocelot on August 02, 2011, 07:15:29 AM
Post by: frankenduck on August 02, 2011, 08:52:33 AM
Now that right there is the most outstandingest tail light mod I have ever seen. Sell me a kit. Name your price.
Do you mean the K1 brake lighting? I could do a kit without the LEDs on the license plate frame - but LED license plate frames are commercially available from several companies and would be easy to wire in.
Post by: frankenduck on August 03, 2011, 06:48:47 AM
bye bye bug...
j o
It will be treated with the utmost respect at frankenduck's Motobrick Morgue - like the cadavers at teaching hospitals. ;)
Post by: Turkus on August 04, 2011, 04:19:31 PM
And off to Motoheaven goes the Bug
And a solemn occassion it was.....almost brought a tear to your eyes... :'(
Post by: leecow on August 04, 2011, 04:45:36 PM
And off to Motoheaven goes the Bug
So this brings up an interesting question. At what point do folks walk away from a bike rather than repair? I suppose finding a quality replacement K is still easy enough that it's a simple bit of math to decide whether to repair or replace.
Post by: frankenduck on August 04, 2011, 04:57:28 PM
And off to Motoheaven goes the Bug
So this brings up an interesting question. At what point do folks walk away from a bike rather than repair? I suppose finding a quality replacement K is still easy enough that it's a simple bit of math to decide whether to repair or replace.
When you already have another one in Wisconsin. ;D
Post by: leecow on August 04, 2011, 05:30:19 PM
Post by: Scott_ on August 04, 2011, 05:39:24 PM
And off to Motoheaven goes the Bug
So this brings up an interesting question. At what point do folks walk away from a bike rather than repair? I suppose finding a quality replacement K is still easy enough that it's a simple bit of math to decide whether to repair or replace.
I did both and now have 2.
Like everything else in life, had I known then what I know now I would have done the repairs myself and only have 1 LT.
Post by: Turkus on August 05, 2011, 12:44:50 AM
ride it till it wont move and have a spare washed and ready to go...
sorry dood......I couldn't resist ;D
Post by: Turkus on August 05, 2011, 01:28:07 AM
yawl...
turkus washed n waxed the squeaky curd motobrick... it was 1 dirty moe... now its the cleanest motobrick ever... more so than that ocd mystic rods fire engine...
thanks bro...
The pleasure was all mine.... ;D
AND it finally motivated me to wash all the Iderhoe goo off the MotoBoxer... ;D
Remind me to give you a bottle of my buddy's "highly exotic" waterless washing solution so you can keep the Curd "squeaky clean" during those rare times when you aren't working or MotoBricking... 8)
Post by: frankenduck on August 05, 2011, 06:59:37 AM
Post by: jimmyd on August 10, 2011, 04:24:41 PM
I made the black pieces look all nice like with some black again goo (works well). I did the TB sync, I changed the oil. And I'm finally putting the bottom cover back on (off for about a month) to finish up. If it does not rain I will take a ride to get some indian food.
Post by: Chaos on August 13, 2011, 10:36:52 PM
Post by: Lawrence on September 11, 2011, 07:17:16 PM
Post by: CubPilot on September 11, 2011, 10:03:15 PM
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51752&rnd=03252011 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51752&rnd=03252011)
Post by: Lawrence on September 12, 2011, 12:49:02 AM
Post by: frankenduck on September 17, 2011, 12:23:42 PM
Post by: Photog on September 18, 2011, 05:29:36 PM
Plus remounted, again the Laminar Lip, this is its last chance before I resort to drilling holes.
New projects are great for excuses to buy yet more tools.
Post by: Lawrence on September 18, 2011, 07:37:19 PM
I set out this morning to check the condition of the air filter on my 1985 K100RS. Man, what a trip that was! Even thing I took off or turned over was filthy/rusty and demanded some attention. After disassembling rather a lot of bits and bobs, getting to the hose clamp/screw buried under the fuel tank put me over the edge and I threw in the towel. The air filter condition remains a mystery. I wonder how many shop hours the hapless customer is charged to change the air filter?
Post by: Photog on September 18, 2011, 08:20:21 PM
Quote
Just how long did it take you3 1/2 hours or so. A lot of that was fetching yet another tool, and just plain taking my time at making sure I was doing everything right.
But it can certainly be done a lot faster, especially if you happen to be familiar with how everything comes apart and goes together.
Post by: WayneDW on September 18, 2011, 08:24:05 PM
http://www.largiader.com/removal/ (http://www.largiader.com/removal/)
This winter I will be taking on the clutch spline which should be another adventure!
Post by: frankenduck on September 18, 2011, 09:08:06 PM
I must undertake a spline lube procedure too, and I'm not looking forward to it one bit. Just how long did it take you?
I set out this morning to check the condition of the air filter on my 1985 K100RS. Man, what a trip that was! Even thing I took off or turned over was filthy/rusty and demanded some attention. After disassembling rather a lot of bits and bobs, getting to the hose clamp/screw buried under the fuel tank put me over the edge and I threw in the towel. The air filter condition remains a mystery. I wonder how many shop hours the hapless customer is charged to change the air filter?
Replacing/inspecting the air filter on a K bike (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1050.0)
Post by: Lawrence on September 18, 2011, 11:53:43 PM
Okay, next weekend I'll have another go at it. Old dog and new tricks.
Post by: motodude on October 01, 2011, 11:42:53 PM
Tomorrow, I flush the cooling system (or replace the coolant lost when removing the crankcase cover) and clean the starter motor. Maybe, pull the tank and install headlight relays too.
Post by: frankenduck on October 02, 2011, 12:08:37 PM
the bug would not have used up a drop...
j o
It would all be sticking to the outside of the valve cover.....
Post by: WickedMoto on October 06, 2011, 07:17:49 PM
Post by: cjskach on October 12, 2011, 05:48:52 PM
Post by: frankenduck on October 12, 2011, 06:37:23 PM
It also describes how to align the clutch plate without the clutch centering tool.
Post by: cjskach on October 12, 2011, 07:55:30 PM
Post by: frankenduck on October 12, 2011, 08:12:14 PM
- Rider skill
- How hard it's been ridden
- Touring vs. city miles
Can't hurt to replace it at 70k though.
Post by: CRASH on October 12, 2011, 09:53:56 PM
Post by: CRASH on October 13, 2011, 12:41:07 AM
im thinking for crash we should ask what did you do to pongos motoboxer today...
;D
j o
I think we may be done for a while. I mean ... there isn't anything left now that the wiring, SS brake lines, tire changes, Wilburs Shocks .. Christ, what else have we done to it? But he pays in good German beer and tri-tip ... looking forward to that next tire change. ;D
I get my new rear brake rotor any day (maybe tomorrow?) and get to put that on and new pads.
Post by: cjskach on October 13, 2011, 01:12:22 PM
Post by: frankenduck on October 13, 2011, 01:45:15 PM
Post by: cjskach on October 13, 2011, 02:22:17 PM
Post by: w. h. hoon on October 16, 2011, 05:45:57 AM
Remember bigger is not always better, this is a VERY SMALL chip!!
Post by: Rick G on October 16, 2011, 06:45:42 AM
Post by: CRASH on October 16, 2011, 07:51:08 PM
Post by: cjskach on October 18, 2011, 03:01:33 PM
92 Tranny 17K 1 Ebay $360.67
92 15k FD 1 Ebay $225.00
Drive Shaft 1 Ebay $99.00
GD525 Lube 4oz 1 Guard Dog $27.10
swing arm boot 1 33171454552 $18.64
clutch Plate 1 21211464796 $135.73
clutch o ring small 1 11211460456 $1.55
clutch bolts 6 21211454417 $1.48 $8.88
clutch control Boot 1 23131338731 $35.33
center stand bolts 4 46521450717 $2.16 $8.64
muffler gasket 1 18121457142 $13.39
clutch handle switch1 61311459569 $33.66
Total $967.59
Hopefully I will have it all back together in a couple of weeks.
Post by: CRASH on October 20, 2011, 07:08:50 PM
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/before.jpg)
Before
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/after.jpg)
After
Took a little finaglin, a little drilling, a little cutting ... but was worth it and is a reasonably clean installation still. I know it will hold up better than the originals.
Some of the pieces
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/ledpack.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/led1.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/lensfront.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/lensback.jpg)
Getting everything to fit back in the same spot was a bit of a challenge, but with some creativity ... doable. The individual resistors on each LED need to be organized JUST SO. I have one area that is not as clean as I would like it due to all the wires converging, but I have a plan for that as well.
Post by: Turkus on October 21, 2011, 01:16:59 AM
that is quite an improvement there crash...
more bung light really makes a difference in my opinion... nice job...
agreed.....one would think he has been hanging around the Duck too long with all them LEDs :o
Post by: Crapdealerbob on October 21, 2011, 01:37:10 AM
I've been reading that some people have had trouble with these tires, but I really like them and getting 12,000 miles on the rear - doing 95% two up riding isn't too bad.
Of course, then we had to put over 100 miles on it, to get it broke in...not a bad way to spend the day.
Post by: cjskach on October 27, 2011, 12:30:50 PM
Post by: Snowy on October 27, 2011, 12:46:41 PM
Post by: cjskach on October 28, 2011, 01:15:16 PM
Post by: Roy S. on October 30, 2011, 09:17:06 AM
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/Roy916/IMG-20111029-00107.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/Roy916/IMG-20111029-00108.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/Roy916/IMG-20111029-00109.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/Roy916/IMG-20111029-00110.jpg)
Post by: cjskach on October 30, 2011, 01:08:22 PM
Post by: wmax351 on November 01, 2011, 05:59:09 PM
Last night, a couple glasses of Merlot, changed out a Progressive rear shock with a Works, on the 75s. Test ride, tune up today.
Are you interested in selling that Progressive? I'm looking for something cheap with preload adjustment. Doesn't need to be perfect at all.
Post by: Lone Amigo on November 07, 2011, 02:06:14 AM
I thought about testing out the power outlet which I had reapired at the dealer's last week. I figured I would plug in my First Gear E-liner and go for a ride, but after church I took a nap, and when I woke up in the middle of the afternoon, I just didn't feel like going through the cold weather ride routine. I'll test it on Wed. when I ride the Hun to the Dealer to have the valve stem on the front wheel replaced, and have fresh anti-freeze put in.
Post by: WayneDW on November 13, 2011, 07:09:44 PM
Post by: BobZ(IL) on November 14, 2011, 06:06:49 PM
Post by: CRASH on November 15, 2011, 01:07:45 AM
Post by: Lone Amigo on November 18, 2011, 12:53:40 AM
Rubber grommets for side panels replaced. Power outlet fixed. Electric liner now works. Valve stem of front wheel replaced. Jenyoowine BMW valve stem caps installed.Bike washed. Discovered that rubber seal where shifter shaft enters box is leaking a bit. Part ordered, appointment made. Rode back home, 200 miles round trip. Didn't dawdle.
Post by: Duc750 on November 20, 2011, 04:50:34 PM
Thanks to all that helped me out with pics and answers to daft questions - I promise to post some pics up of her soon !
Post by: Lone Amigo on November 24, 2011, 01:05:03 AM
Post by: HCorn on November 26, 2011, 09:09:14 PM
Drained the primordial ooze out of the forks, cleaned them up, and installed Progressive springs. First time doing it, but I came pretty proficient since I had to do it several times! Left the dust cover off one time, realized I didn't fill one tube properly . . . :-[
I also had several items waiting in the queue on the workbench: LED dash lights, new clock, new dash seal, headlight relay, new bulb, and re-routed my SAE connector up by the dash to make it easier to plug in my heated vest.
Took it for a quick spin. Definitely noticed the better lighting. Forks seem quite a bit better, but I need to take it for a longer ride.
Post by: Rick G on November 26, 2011, 09:58:30 PM
Checking over a few things and turned the key to the lock position and great then tried to unlock it and no go its frozen solid. Spent a couple of hours playing with the key to no avail and decided to pull the front end apart to get at it. finally got the ign lock out after drilling the snaphead bolts out and still no go.
I decide to soak the lock in gas to get rid of the gunk build up that is most likely holding the tumblers in the wrong place but the whole lock just fell to bits and now the key won't come out. Oh am I having fun. I finally got the key to come out so at least I can unlock the side pockets. Used lock ordered and now I wait for that but I am taking advantage of the down time and installing the new springs in the forks. Fortunately I can still go for a ride on one of the other bricks or my very favourite muscle bike the KZ1300 Kawasaki.
Post by: orforester on November 30, 2011, 07:42:59 PM
Oh lubed the throttle and clutch lever. Maybe more as if it rains, or tank takes longer.
Has anyone ever hear of these shocks? (http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PB300016.jpg) I am trying to figure out how to mount the canister
Post by: frankenduck on November 30, 2011, 08:06:53 PM
I am trying to figure out how to mount the canister
Take a look here: http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/instructions/bmwk.pdf (http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/instructions/bmwk.pdf)
Post by: Lone Amigo on November 30, 2011, 08:11:09 PM
Tomorrow morning I will put the snow blanket over the seat and dash.
Post by: Nessmuk on December 06, 2011, 08:26:49 AM
Also changed the right front disk for one that wasn't warped. Braking is a lot smoother now.
Simon.
Post by: billday on December 12, 2011, 12:24:46 AM
Post by: jonb on December 14, 2011, 12:27:47 AM
She's definitely fuelling much better now, but I'd still like to get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned.
Post by: frankenduck on December 16, 2011, 10:20:14 AM
Post by: CRASH on December 17, 2011, 03:32:13 AM
Post by: wmax351 on December 19, 2011, 04:02:07 AM
Post by: orforester on December 22, 2011, 11:40:19 PM
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220029.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220030.jpg)
Finished product
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220032.jpg)
I saw one of these on Craigslist, and thought I woudl try one out.
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220033.jpg)
Post by: wmax351 on December 23, 2011, 03:55:11 AM
Fix small oil leak from the last winter project, not enough sealant
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220029.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220030.jpg)
Finished product
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220032.jpg)
I saw one of these on Craigslist, and thought I woudl try one out.
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220033.jpg)
I did the same thing last night. But my oil seal was in bass ackwards, with a bad shaft to top it off. So I rebuilt it, new seals and shaft. The put it on with some anaerobic flange sealant (Great stuff, btw. Soluble in oil, hard as a rock when pressed in between a flange, cures anaerobically, so it stays soft if it squeezes out.).
Post by: Crapdealerbob on December 23, 2011, 08:48:37 AM
I saw one of these on Craigslist, and thought I woudl try one out.
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/BMW/PC220033.jpg)
Hey orforester - I see you bought a "looks like toot attenuators... las vegas buffets on a daily basis over time will cause toot erosion to your moto seat...
the installation of beaded toot attenuators will absorb and distribute the toots over more space reducing its negative effect on the moto seat..." Johnny Oct 2011
We really like ours, makes 500 to 600 miles a day an easy ride ...
I had a complete service on my K done at the shop here in Vegas, ready for a ride to Phoenix next week (if the weather cooperates), also tried out my Garmin 1300 mounted on my tankbag. Still trying to get a "setup" that I like... dam - it was cold !!
Post by: DRxBMW on December 23, 2011, 09:33:33 AM
I saw one of these on Craigslist, and thought I woudl try one out.
I had a complete service on my K done at the shop here in Vegas, ready for a ride to Phoenix next week (if the weather cooperates), also tried out my Garmin 1300 mounted on my tankbag. Still trying to get a "setup" that I like... dam - it was cold !!
Good luck, IMHO beaded seat covers are totally worthless ! BTDT, read a REAL pain in the ass. (pun intended)
Personally, I've tried gel inserts, sheepskin only to return to stock.
One is better off springing the cash for a Russell or Sargent seat and be done with the deal.
WHY are you mounting the Garmin GPS on the tankbag ? Ram handlebar mount with a 1" arm is the ticket. ROCK solid, plus you can angle to defeat sun glare.
The ROHO system aka Airhawk looks interesting but pricey. Used for bedsore pressure management in the medical field so it may have some merits.
Post by: johnny on December 30, 2011, 04:12:28 PM
j o
Post by: frankenduck on December 30, 2011, 05:29:17 PM
Post by: frankenduck on December 30, 2011, 08:04:34 PM
Post by: Scott_ on December 30, 2011, 10:46:18 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Ride%20Tales%20IA/005.jpg)Since when did you have a garage on the west coast????? :hmm:
j o
Im betting that wasn't a recent photo. :nono
Post by: Lawrence on December 30, 2011, 11:01:59 PM
Post by: frankenduck on January 02, 2012, 01:51:42 PM
Post by: Snowy on January 02, 2012, 05:28:59 PM
Post by: billday on January 02, 2012, 07:45:37 PM
Besides spline lube, I'm planning a GPI switch refurb (to try to get my neutral light working) while I'm in there.
Post by: frankenduck on January 02, 2012, 09:03:25 PM
Post by: frankenduck on January 04, 2012, 08:38:13 PM
Post by: Lawrence on January 07, 2012, 09:13:05 PM
Post by: frankenduck on January 07, 2012, 09:54:16 PM
I also removed the tail cowl and detailed/waxed the rear of the frame.
The fill plug for the final drive didn't clean up very well so I polished it with my Dremel.
I was gonna clean the inside of the battery too but I couldn't figure out how to get it open. :lol:
I'm visiting my dad and have PLENTY of spare time.
Besides, it's the best K bike on the planet so it deserves all of that love and attention.
Post by: mystic red on January 08, 2012, 08:16:54 AM
Them are some DUSTY System Cases. :eek2:
What do you think that fur duster is for?
Post by: CRASH on January 08, 2012, 10:49:39 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/400568_308878035823413_100001036577490_988267_938618647_n.jpg)
New tools are always fun.
Post by: DRxBMW on January 08, 2012, 11:04:42 PM
Well, it is not what I DID ... but what I did so that I can DO more to it.
New tools are always fun.
What's the deal with the marking tape on the floor ?
Parking allotment ? LOL
Post by: CRASH on January 08, 2012, 11:53:21 PM
Post by: Turkus on January 09, 2012, 12:28:47 AM
New tools are always fun.
So....how many of you did it take to get that thing into and out of the Caravan and into the garage ?? :neener:
Post by: CRASH on January 10, 2012, 01:06:44 AM
Post by: wmax351 on January 13, 2012, 04:52:05 PM
Post by: Snowy on January 13, 2012, 05:20:28 PM
Post by: CRASH on January 21, 2012, 10:54:13 PM
Post by: orforester on January 22, 2012, 12:45:26 PM
Post by: billday on January 22, 2012, 08:52:42 PM
=> Addendum: I just checked my book, and in the past year I rode 10,000 miles, not 7500. Just sayin'.
Post by: WayneDW on January 23, 2012, 09:02:34 PM
i addressed that upon our return to socal... the dude that was gonna make them decided he needed to make 10 at 300 each for it to worth his while... so i took it around to some places and nobody wants to do it... i figured it was futile so i put it on the burd...Johnny, my son-in-law is a custom metal worker in Tacoma. He is new in town and working out of his basement so his prices may be better? If you'd like I can get you his number.
im looking for another one for the silky... if i see one for your modern era motobrick i will let you know...
j o
Wayne
Post by: billday on January 28, 2012, 03:30:00 PM
While you're at it, it's a good idea to remove, clean and relube the clutch arm pivot rod.
This turned out to be great advice. Not only were the needle bearings in the clutch arm bone dry, but it also forced me to face the fact that the rubber boot down there needed replacing. Thanks, Duck!
Post by: Scott_ on February 01, 2012, 09:59:22 PM
I think later in the spring when I can get to my lift I need to address steering head bearings on the '97, they are pretty notchy for only 43K miles on it. I wasn't comfortable at this time and garage space to try and do the head bearings right now. Not a stable enough setup, and not enough room.
Post by: billday on February 05, 2012, 07:24:00 PM
New monkey nuts
New clutch lever cup (plus clean & grease everything in the clutch release mechanism)
Lube the clutch input & output splines (Guard Dog Moly)
Now putting everything back together...
Post by: Crapdealerbob on February 09, 2012, 10:35:50 PM
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/DSCN6601.jpg)
Post by: billday on February 10, 2012, 10:09:46 PM
I really like how your bike has white everything.... including the mudguard license plate holder thingy. Very sharp.
Bill
Post by: DRxBMW on February 11, 2012, 07:42:18 AM
New license plate frame - I know, but hey, it's something !
he he, let me snap a pic of my license plate frame after breakfast coffee.
Can you say chopper ?
Custom,"hand painted" blue & white flames baby, bitchin as they chime in Cali.
White highlight accents on a K bike are rad. I painted my alternator and coil covers white for something different.
(https://www.3dlettering.com/wiki.aspx/fs/German%20Cross%20Decal%20larger.JPG)
Post by: DRxBMW on February 11, 2012, 03:19:26 PM
here's your plate _____________________.New license plate frame - I know, but hey, it's something !
he he, let me snap a pic of my license plate frame after breakfast coffee.
Can you say chopper ?
Custom,"hand painted" blue & white flames baby, bitchin as they chime in Cali.
Checkout my home brewed LED tail & brake lights I recently added on the GS. Next is the K 75 but it's essentially the same deal.
Right to left Zig Zag flash pattern on top of the frame, I must admit FranKenduck's, wag circuitry is more "attention getting" than mine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rl1_elYuTiM/TzbJoQ376HI/AAAAAAAAFFE/5PgGqto_3-M/s800/light%2520bar%25201.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9b_XYGh6JuM/TzbJoKFWJjI/AAAAAAAAFE8/xkKQYfKiL_k/s800/light%2520bar%25202.JPG)
Post by: wmax351 on February 19, 2012, 01:48:46 PM
New Oil/water pump seals and impeller shaft
New Steering head bearings
New (used) Triple clamp
New (used) Wheel
New Wheel Bearings
New Tires (BT-45's)
New Swingarm Bearings
FD Spline Lube
Put on some new turn signals, instead of the crappy ones that were on it. Repaired the cowling with ABS cement and scrap ABS.
Fixed Instrument Cluster lighting, clock, and calibrated the speedometer.
New Oil, Filter
New Radiator Fluid
Fixed Ignition switch wiring
Clean and Re-Lube Fluidblok Damper
Post by: Chaos on February 19, 2012, 02:41:53 PM
Put air in the tires, fired it up and went for a 2 hour spin
Froze my nuts off :biggrin:
Think I'll wait till it get's above 45 before I try that again
Post by: frankenduck on February 22, 2012, 07:04:30 PM
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/gen_maint/twinmaxloop.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on February 27, 2012, 12:52:39 PM
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/whatdidyoudo/katotechron.jpg)
Post by: Chaos on February 28, 2012, 07:51:14 PM
Post by: WayneDW on February 28, 2012, 08:07:45 PM
I NEED POSITIVE FEEDBACK!!! :eek: :yow :neener: :hehehe :yes :dunno :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Way to go, you da man!
Post by: DRxBMW on February 28, 2012, 08:20:24 PM
I NEED POSITIVE FEEDBACK!!! :eek: :yow :neener: :hehehe :yes :dunno :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Way to go, you da man!
What the hell is a Jorgenson clamp ?
Post by: robleyd on February 28, 2012, 08:37:02 PM
Post by: Chaos on February 28, 2012, 08:38:18 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on February 28, 2012, 08:58:59 PM
Developed by druids back in the dark ages to break tire beads :biggrin:
Lucky to have access to real tire machine.
On the GS, I carry a large C clamp for that chore trail-side.
Wood clamp is a better description for my feeble brain.
Post by: HCorn on February 28, 2012, 10:23:25 PM
Quote
What the hell is a Jorgenson clamp ?
Awww, come on guys, it's so simple maybe you need a refresher course. It's all Jorgenson clamps nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads, and I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
Post by: CRASH on February 28, 2012, 11:52:59 PM
Post by: Crapdealerbob on March 01, 2012, 12:18:00 PM
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/3594192.jpg)
Had it powder coated black, ready for the install
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0567.jpg)
Let's drill....(gulp)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0573.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0574.jpg)
Looks good
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0578.jpg)
Screw it on
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0579.jpg)
All done, took about 30 minutes (spent the first 15 making sure I had it lined up right)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0583.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Misc%202011/DSC_0596.jpg)
Now do find the right size travel bag to use, no more backpack for Donna
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/Montana%20trip%202010/DSCN0862-2.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on March 01, 2012, 12:29:24 PM
Not sure what type of bag you're looking for but these are a good deal:
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/seattle-sports-waterproof-dry-bag-medium~p~2580a/?filterString=Seattle-Sports~b~19123%2F&colorFamily=32 (http://www.sierratradingpost.com/seattle-sports-waterproof-dry-bag-medium~p~2580a/?filterString=Seattle-Sports~b~19123%2F&colorFamily=32)
Post by: mystic red on March 01, 2012, 08:34:25 PM
Nice job on the mount and how in the world did you come up with HD '49-'65 rack. See one on a bike somewhere?
Now, I have this rotary dial phone I'd like to sell....
Post by: frankenduck on March 01, 2012, 08:42:35 PM
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/brakes/galfer_kato_rear.jpg)
Did the front lines last week:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/brakes/galfer_kato_front.jpg)
Note that the front line to the splitter on the fork brace didn't fit but I'm working with a helpful tech guy at Galfer to get that resolved and get one that fits.
Post by: mystic red on March 01, 2012, 09:15:55 PM
Quote
Note that the front line to the splitter on the fork brace didn't fit but I'm working with a helpful tech guy at Galfer to get that resolved and get one that fits.
Too long, too short or wrong fitting?
Post by: frankenduck on March 01, 2012, 10:04:30 PM
Too long, too short or wrong fitting?
Right length, wrong fittings on both ends. I emailed their sales email address last Friday evening with some pictures of what was wrong with their kit versus the OEM lines and was kind of miffed that I hadn't heard back from them so this morning I forwarded the same email to their tech support email and the guy got back to me in 1.5 hours asking me to call him so we could discuss the issue and what I needed to make things right. He'd already pulled up the BMW fiche and during our conversation understood that there was a difference between the ABS I and ABS II bikes and spent 15-20 minutes on the phone getting a clear understanding of what was wrong and how to make things right. Needless to say, I was very impressed by his attitude and if I owned a brake line company I'd want this guy on my staff.
Post by: frankenduck on March 02, 2012, 12:22:13 PM
To start with, the fitting that connects to the metal line from the ABS modulator is convex on the Galfer line but concave on the OEM brake line.
Next, the banjo bolt that connects to the splitter on the fork brace is straight on the Galfer line while the OEM line is angled to go through the plastic cover that goes over the fork brace.
Post by: Crapdealerbob on March 03, 2012, 08:53:22 AM
Wow, a drill with a cord coming out of it!
Nice job on the mount and how in the world did you come up with HD '49-'65 rack. See one on a bike somewhere?
Now, I have this rotary dial phone I'd like to sell....
I met a fellow K rider at the BMWMOA Cedar City Getaway last September, who had mounted the same rack on his top case, and found out what rack it was. I had been looking for one to fit on my top case for sometime without success. The rack was a Harley 49-65 Tour Pack, which fit the BMW top case perfectly. I used “ebay” to find one (with some help from the Las Vegas BMW shop) and ordered it from The Hawgpit.com.
Post by: frankenduck on March 03, 2012, 09:50:08 AM
Post by: billday on March 03, 2012, 10:13:39 PM
To this fine document
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/final-drive-seal.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/final-drive-seal.shtml)
I would add the following:
1. Be sure you buy a replacement seal AND a replacement O-ring for the case (called a "gasket" in the document). I didn't notice the need for the O-ring before my seal had shipped from MaxBMW in New Hampshire, so the job cost me an extra 2.5 hours to drive to MaxBMW in Connecticut to pick up the O-ring.
2. Drain the FD oil before you take the FD off the bike (should be obvious, but the IBMWR document omits that essential step).
3. While you're at it, take the brake disk off before you take the FD off. Much easier than wrangling a loose FD while trying not to mangle your disk.
4. If you are doing this job, your FD has been leaking oil on your rear brake disk. Waste a can of brake cleaner on your disk, and replace your oil-soaked brake pads.
5. The half-used roll of duct tape (Step 11) is brilliant.
6. This is a great opportunity to clean the wheel side of your FD -- see the pics.
Post by: Chaos on March 07, 2012, 11:57:51 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 08, 2012, 09:46:06 AM
Mounted new back tire and the damn thing seated on the first try! Gotta love the little victories :loopy:
Scored Michelin Mac 50 rubber in spite of the weird brick sizing this morning for the K 75.
Been sitting for two years but the price was right, $110.00 for the pair out the door.
Post by: Chaos on March 10, 2012, 06:05:40 PM
Post by: frankenduck on March 12, 2012, 02:14:08 AM
Post by: Brickhead on March 12, 2012, 08:03:03 AM
today... i replaced my broken heal toe shifter with a new old stock unit...
and... i installed the modern era johnny blanket...
been waiting for a calm day... crazy hours this week so we are resting up for tomorrows motoforestmadness...
the nesting burd...
going with 2mil mylar... wanted 5mil... butts the dope farm shop only had 1mil and 2mil...
the motobrick garage...
the instant i got it cut steering head to bung... the wind started whipping up...
trimming...
foil backed foam bottom seat pan...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0388.jpg)
buttoned up...
yeeeeeehaaaaaaa...
j o
Hey Johnny, where did you get the mylar?
Post by: Chaos on March 16, 2012, 08:52:59 PM
Post by: billday on March 17, 2012, 08:14:10 AM
I have the same fairing, and I just scored a radiator shroud from Motobricker Rich Honey from Oz... pictures coming one of these days...
Post by: Chaos on March 17, 2012, 11:29:21 AM
Post by: mystic red on March 17, 2012, 12:40:00 PM
Post by: billday on March 17, 2012, 08:23:41 PM
Can't believe how sad my bike looks with everything off the front.
When I saw the bearings and races, I thought, I can't believe I rode it like this.
I was able to get replacement bearings and races at MaxBMW in CT. Three hours in the cage, but what the hell.
But now I am totally stumped as to how to get the cage off the stem. Clymer says to heat up the stem and lower tree, then use a hydraulic press to push the stem out a bit, presumably so you can get under the cage to pry it up. I looked around the house for a hydraulic press but couldn't find one, so I tried heating it up then trying to pound the stem out using a screwdriver handle as a drift. No joy -- could only get it to move maybe 1/16". What now? Any suggestions?
Post by: Chaos on March 17, 2012, 09:32:39 PM
Post by: billday on March 17, 2012, 09:41:17 PM
Post by: Chaos on March 17, 2012, 10:39:29 PM
Post by: Chaos on March 17, 2012, 10:47:22 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 18, 2012, 07:18:20 PM
drained the 140 + installed the 90...dunno, I have close to 150K on a K 75 FD using 75/140 full synth.
j o
Under the impression K 1200's & the Open Hole R FD's were most affected by the excess "drag factor" of 140 weight.
Since there is no preload to worry about on the new rear drives (the ones with the big hole in the axle), replacing the ball bearing is far less troublesome than on the previous generation rear drives that had to have their preload set up (using shims) EVERY time a bearing was replaced. I did it on my old K100RS, and it was REAL touchy!
K 1200 FD leak below
(http://68.178.194.211/gallery/data/500/Rearend_Leak.JPG)
The newer BMW FD's had numerous failures regardless of what friggin oil was used. Reason BMW re-engineered to a beefier design for the K 1600.
K 1600 FD below, note the difference in the lugs
(http://deansbmw.smugmug.com/Other/Long-Beach-MC-show-121810/Long-Beach-MC-show-12-18-10/1134788412_Xiihv-L.jpg)
The two major dealers in Gauteng now change the rear drive unit oil at every major service interval, disregarding BMW SA's instructions. Surprise, surprise... the number of final-drive failures has decreased dramatically!
NO BIG deal either way is my opine. If I resided a colder climate 75/90W makes more sense over 140. (maybe) Viscosity chemistry is wunderbar magicKal stuff.
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube
LS 75W-140
Designed to meet the requirements of light trucks and SUVs where an API GL-5 75W-140 gear oil is recommended.
For the record,it's Don Eilenberger JO. :bmwsmile
Post by: frankenduck on March 18, 2012, 07:22:56 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 18, 2012, 08:02:02 PM
FWIW: Here's an MOA thread on it: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58695 (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58695)Classic K final drive failure is a rare event. Exception being the Paralever according to Paul Glaves.
75/140 full synth is superior for tranny use hands down,especially in HOT weather.
Cutter recommends non synth Castrol Hypoid C 80w90 for the FD. It is stinky and contains more sulfur than most. When I service my whip this Spring, I'll probably end up using Castrol for the FD this time around. Tom is an excellent wrench and I respect his mechanical opine.
What scares me is the word speculate on several of the BMW MOA forum posts. NO real DATA to back up there claims. Heard thru the grapevine approach rather than an actual roadside breakdown.
I still stand my ground that the newer final drives are a piece of shit ! Ha, the lifetime lubrication statement was a friggin joke.
The real problem may be the lack of shimming,open hole, drop in bearings,whatever. Interesting, that BMW started with a new sheet of paper for the 1600 final drives. Only time will tell if they got it right this time.
Post by: frankenduck on March 18, 2012, 08:46:56 PM
Post by: Scott_ on March 18, 2012, 08:54:08 PM
Also determined that the main fairing mounting bracket probably should be replaced. Not broke where it mounts to the steering head, but elsewhere on the bracket is bent(tweaked) and split.
Ordered my bearings and other misc parts and pieces last week, should be here Tuesday to start putting it back together.
Post by: billday on March 18, 2012, 09:07:47 PM
Those bearings were toast (see pictures of top race above).
In retrospect, my bike started feeling twitchy around the time I left Arizona last October -- at the time I thought the change in feel was due to the Dunlop rear I had to buy while I was out there.
That is a hairy job, much more complicated than the back end or the transmission splines. Glad it's done.
Post by: greenmtrider on March 19, 2012, 08:49:27 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 20, 2012, 09:03:22 AM
Yes I broke my K1100Lt today on the way home from work. One of my front break callipers came of in a dumb mistake on not rechecking the bolt for tightness. :dunno
better outcome than forgetting to check the actual front wheel fastening torque. :nono
A guy on the KBMW list had a rear wheel detach. Real rush but relativity unscathed by the incident, other than 76 foot pounds etched in his brain as a lifetime memory. :neener:
Critical fasteners use that nomenclature for a REASON !
On the bright side, "over-tightening" also has dire consequences.
peace out bricKheads
Post by: CrashBar on March 21, 2012, 04:47:23 PM
Post by: Photog on March 21, 2012, 07:24:50 PM
But, as I feared, I have engine oil in the bottom of the bell housing. What's involved in replacing the seal?
I know step one is remove the clutch...
Recommended tools?
It's a K75
Post by: frankenduck on March 21, 2012, 07:47:09 PM
Post by: Photog on March 21, 2012, 08:25:53 PM
I am thinking of replacing the clutch plate anyway, just because it's there and everything is torn apart already or will be more, to get the seal.
The bike has 47K on it, I presume it's the original clutch. It certainly has more miles left, but I don't particularly want to tear things apart more often than necessary. The clutch bolts have some oil on them, but the plate edge is dry, FWIW.
Motobins' prices look pretty good in comparison to what I see here at Max and A&S.
Post by: billday on March 21, 2012, 08:44:14 PM
Installed the old (but still new in the box, never installed) Progressive shock that I bought off a guy from IBMWR
Post by: frankenduck on March 21, 2012, 09:09:54 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,332.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,332.0.html)
Post by: mystic red on March 21, 2012, 09:38:47 PM
drained the 140 + installed the 90...Quote
What would possess you to run the 140 in the final? Been runnin' 80/90 Amsoil since I've owned the mystic red. Amsoil, the slickest substance know to man. I've started using it in my tires. Better than Ride On for balancing.
Post by: Photog on March 21, 2012, 10:09:04 PM
What size socket is needed for the clutch nut? Apologies if it's been answered somewhere before.
Post by: frankenduck on March 21, 2012, 10:39:16 PM
What size socket is needed for the clutch nut? Apologies if it's been answered somewhere before.
30mm. (It's in the Clutch O Ring PDF in the thread that I pointed you to earlier.)
Post by: Brickhead on March 22, 2012, 07:57:08 AM
Post by: Photog on March 22, 2012, 07:41:00 PM
The disk is glazed, but it measures 5.5 mm. Deglaze and reinstall, or replace?
TIA
Post by: Scott_ on March 22, 2012, 08:25:53 PM
Post by: conybeare on March 23, 2012, 12:54:04 AM
Post by: conybeare on March 23, 2012, 11:14:45 PM
Post by: TaosBrick on March 24, 2012, 11:53:13 AM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 24, 2012, 11:57:10 AM
OK, so I wanna change my oil today - goin' to Mobil 1, 15W50. Owner's manual says to change oil filter cover gasket and oil drain plug gasket. How necessary is this really? Or should I have them on hand in case of breaking/ripping the filter plate gasket upon removal? Same goes for tranny and FD drain plugs. Or should I just say eff it and use all the old ones over again?
Best to use new crush washers if possible. Any good brake shop can supply you with some copper washers which you can reuse after annealing. If you real careful, you can reuse the aluminum ones.
Cover plate O ring will last many a mile.
Post by: frankenduck on March 24, 2012, 12:08:37 PM
If you're going to change the filter then you really don't even need to remove the drain plug.
Post by: DRxBMW on March 24, 2012, 12:12:55 PM
Best to use new crush washers if possible. Any good brake shop can supply you with some copper washers which you can reuse after annealing. If you real careful, you can reuse the aluminum ones.
Cover plate O ring will last many a mile.
If you choose to reuse a OEM crush washer, do NOT press your luck with multiples. After two cycles,time to be a un cheapskate and buy new.
Telling you, the copper rings are GREAT, heat with a torch to cherry red, quench and your good to go.
Here's a link for annealing aluminum washers. I have NEVER tried this so your on your own. However, stuck in a remote location without a nearby BMW dealer, worth a stab.
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference-material/annealling-copper---aluminium-washers.aspx (http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference-material/annealling-copper---aluminium-washers.aspx)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The issue with re-use relates to their softness and the fact that if the two surfaces that first compressed them left irregularities in the aluminum washer's surface then, if it doesn't line up just as it had in the first compression, you'll not have as good a seal.
I prefer copper myself, but that's become pricey and not used as oftern (I think largely because of cost). Copper can be annealed between uses and even re-formed if necessary.
If you are caught having to reuse the aluminum washers, then it can be useful to inspect them carefully and, if they show signs of raised ridges, you can dress them flat on some emerycloth on a flat surface, clean them off, and re-use.
Aluminum can be annealed too, it's just a lttle more difficult to do without melting the washer. A smear of soap or washing up liquid on the washer will turn black when the correct temperature is reached.
Post by: TaosBrick on March 24, 2012, 12:31:23 PM
Hopefully, wife will be able to pick up these partz (along with new fork seals and "filister head screw" crush washer for upcoming fork tube replacement).
She's taking a basic rider course down there this weekend :2thumbup:.
I was tired of the long face I would get every time I'd go out Brickin', so... I found her a '99 535 Virago. She's all of 5'1", so I don't think any amount of seat modification would make her feel safe or comfortable on a Brick. And.. this will be her first mc experience. The Virago's short and forgiving, and with only 4,600mi on it and it looking like it just came out of the box, I feel like I got a good deal for 2k. Whee!
Maybe an R60 or R75 is in her future someday - those can be altered for short people.
Post by: frankenduck on March 24, 2012, 12:42:58 PM
Post by: DRxBMW on March 24, 2012, 01:36:24 PM
Hmm.. maybe I should change out th' coolant too.
Hopefully, wife will be able to pick up these partz (along with new fork seals and "filister head screw" crush washer for upcoming fork tube replacement).
Maybe an R60 or R75 is in her future someday - those can be altered for short people.
YES, do swap the coolant for piece of mind, EASY, 15 minute worth of K time.
Be aware that the fork drain bolts are VERY prone to stripping. GO SLOW, you have been WARNED !!!
If you resided closer, I know where a complete frame up restoration R 60/5 is up for sale currently. $3800, NICE, I looked at it and took it for a test run. Beautiful but too damn SLOW for my taste.
(http://www.instantbikes.com/images/bike/bmw-r-60-5/1970/dde627522bc083a7962f3eedc88a0b9a.png)
Post by: conybeare on March 24, 2012, 01:55:59 PM
Makes the decision of whether to reuse or replace a little bit easier... Handy to have around for the cage, too.
Post by: Scott_ on March 24, 2012, 07:24:32 PM
Anyway today I fitted the steering head bearings and started putting the front end back together. Fork tubes, handle bars, wheel, brakes, etc...
Still waiting on the main fairing support bracket to show up.
Also went ahead with a TB sync while I had it up on the table and all the plastic off of it. Damn if that Carbtune isn't easier than the TwinMax for a TB sync.... :2thumbup:
Unless I get ambitious tonight I'll wait with the rest of the oil changes, trans and final drive. Engine oil has already been done.
Then once I get it off of the lift I'll get the brake fluid changed.
Post by: frankenduck on March 25, 2012, 10:01:09 AM
Old:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/funkybrick/funky_old_plate.jpg)
"New:"
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/funkybrick/funky_new_plate.jpg)
Crack in the old one:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/funkybrick/funky_plate_crack.jpg)
I also replaced the clutch switch that had a broken spring:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/funkybrick/funky_old_clutch_switch.jpg)
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/funkybrick/funky_cltuch_switch.jpg)
Post by: WayneDW on March 25, 2012, 07:32:23 PM
First a quick trip to a local church parking lot for some figure 8's to get my sea legs back:
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n237/waynedw/BMW%20pics/plot.jpg)
Then down the freeway and spent some time going around and around again, this time on a cloverleaf. Everything seems to be working well!
Post by: frankenduck on March 25, 2012, 10:34:29 PM
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/brake_inspecctor.jpg)
Post by: TaosBrick on March 25, 2012, 10:37:16 PM
I had my brakes inspected today:(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/brake_inspecctor.jpg)
Izzat the famous Frankenbrick? Pretty dang Kewl. Cat inspector-dude matches yer paint job.
Post by: frankenduck on March 25, 2012, 11:08:34 PM
Finished putting everything back together after my winter projects.
Lookin' good there, Wayne. :2thumbup:
Post by: frankenduck on March 26, 2012, 10:43:26 AM
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/206/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/206/)
Post by: TaosBrick on March 26, 2012, 09:42:29 PM
It'll go quicker next time, now that I know the lay of the land, so to speak. Also installed altitude switch for Jetronic.
Chile Red in the massage parlour.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/0326121030.jpg)
If I'd been able to get that old planter box positioned right, I coulda drained the tranny and FD at the same time. :hmm:
Post by: motodude on March 26, 2012, 11:40:47 PM
Givi E181. Fits in the same holes as the OEM tail rack.
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/206/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/206/)
Thanks for the response. I never look at the Givi stuff cuz I really don't like the looks of their bags. Good quality though.
The rack I'm building will mount in the same holes as the factory rack too. But, it'll have a "hoop" like the large Reynolds rack where I can attach the backrest.
Tom
Post by: frankenduck on March 27, 2012, 12:16:29 AM
(http://home.comcast.net/~smithduck/tours/111019_oh1/pics/DSC01687.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on March 27, 2012, 12:18:16 AM
Post by: TaosBrick on March 27, 2012, 09:03:02 AM
Today I brought the K75F out of winter hibernation and started it up so I could test some rear rotors for warpage. It was a bit stubborn at first but once it warmed up..... yeehaw.....
GO Frankenbrick!
Post by: motodude on March 27, 2012, 10:11:19 AM
Yeah, the big Givis are a bit gaudy but last fall I installed this 26L on my K1100RS. Big enough for a FF helmet and looks OK IMO.
Their top-cases aren't too bad and shaped to hold a helmet, which is handy. It is their side-cases that really don't look good (to me anyway). At least compared to the BMW side-cases.
Tom
Post by: frankenduck on March 27, 2012, 10:28:30 AM
Their top-cases aren't too bad and shaped to hold a helmet, which is handy. It is their side-cases that really don't look good (to me anyway). At least compared to the BMW side-cases.
Tom
Agreed. A lot of their side cases are just big top cases mounted on a side rack.
Post by: TaosBrick on March 27, 2012, 10:33:52 AM
Post by: frankenduck on March 27, 2012, 11:20:27 AM
Hey, What's that tank bag you got there, Duck? I'm in the market for something that is practical, but not too $pendy.
OEM. Made by Multivario and sometimes referred to by that name.
Generally in the $125ish range for a used one with a rain cover in good shape.
Post by: Inge K. on March 27, 2012, 03:20:52 PM
OEM. Made by Multivario and sometimes referred to by that name.
Yeah, right.....and my OEM helmet is made by System IV.
Multivario was just a name BMW put on this type of tankbags....an as usuall BMW keep their cards thight.
At the time when Multivario I was on the market, they had a bag for the boxer with less possibilities
to change to different volume capacities, that was called.........Vario.
Inge K.
Post by: frankenduck on March 27, 2012, 04:07:20 PM
Post by: Scott_ on April 01, 2012, 06:46:29 PM
It all started with fork seals and boots, then steering head bearings, then while I had it all apart the front fairing mount was bent and cracked so it was replaced also.
I also put on the engine bars I got from Drake a year ago or so, as good a time as any.......since I hadn't put them on yet.......
I did a full TB sync including the butterfly plates.
I can't say I've had this bike run soooooo smoooooth.
Post by: Brickhead on April 01, 2012, 10:09:00 PM
Took off the Aeroflow for the summer. Got to get more Velcro dots though.. :2thumbup:
Oh and then took it for a spin :laugh
Post by: ccarlsonnh on April 02, 2012, 05:29:10 PM
Post by: C_Mick on April 03, 2012, 09:56:56 AM
The fettling of the bike is going well; I’ve:
Refitted the front forks and re-assembled the front end
Replaced brake fluid for the front discs (the old stuff was the colour of brown ale) and bled the brakes
Checked front and rear brake pads – which were fine
Replaced engine coolant
Changed the engine oil and oil filter
Cleaned and checked the spark plugs
The only nasty surprises so far were to do with the rear brake. The master cylinder reservoir (made of plastic) had deteriorated and fractured, causing some of the brake fluid to drain off and cause some corrosion elsewhere and on inspecting the master cylinder itself I found some corrosion in the bore, which a friend polished out with Brasso! (He maintains an old truck in good running order and has repaired many parts which a commercial garage would deem to be non-repairable.) I hope it works, as a new master cylinder is ridiculously expensive.
So the K75S is being reborn and when the required part arrives from Germany and a new battery is fitted it will soon be ready for the road. While I'm waiting for the part I will lube the final drive splines and replace the drive and gearbox oils. (Thanks Dr L Hubbard Duck for my induction in the science of splientology.)
Unexpectedly, I find myself enjoying working on the bike again and it has led to two serendipitous encounters. One was with a German engineer who was responsible for the team of production engineers which developed the BMW System Helmet. His guys took the design concept from the BMW designers as well as input from many other interested parties e.g. safety specialists and worked all the diverse strands into an engineered product to be handed over to the BMW marketing men. Unsung heroes no less. The other was a retired engineer who lectured at a university in Holland and is a former motorcycle racer. He competed in the 1970s with some of the top riders on the GP racing circuit. Although I had met him and his wife before, we hadn’t talked bikes previously because neither of us had realised the other was interested. But when he learned I was working on the bike a connection was made and later that evening we spent an enjoyable couple of hours chatting over a bottle of wine. Well they do say motorcyclists are the salt of the earth.
Post by: DRxBMW on April 03, 2012, 10:18:03 AM
Unexpectedly, I find myself enjoying working on the bike again and it has led to two serendipitous encounters. One was with a German engineer who was responsible for the team of production engineers which developed the BMW System Helmet. His guys took the design concept from the BMW designers as well as input from many other interested parties e.g. safety specialists and worked all the diverse strands into an engineered product to be handed over to the BMW marketing men. Unsung heroes no less.
The other was a retired engineer who lectured at a university in Holland and is a former motorcycle racer. He competed in the 1970s with some of the top riders on the GP racing circuit. Although I had met him and his wife before, we hadn’t talked bikes previously because neither of us had realised the other was interested. But when he learned I was working on the bike a connection was made and later that evening we spent an enjoyable couple of hours chatting over a bottle of wine. Well they do say motorcyclists are the salt of the earth.
Way Kewl, I too have "hooked up" with interesting folks in the BMW World of DIY wrenching. Ha, one rider is top level military, part of the launch team process for nuke missiles, scary ch!t.
(http://www.teambudde.dk/Journeys/2011%20Ukraine/Album_Pic/img_2199.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on April 03, 2012, 11:25:14 PM
The wheel weights from when I had a tire installed a few weeks ago fell off of my front wheel. (I was changing the coolant, the bike was stationary and they just fell off onto the ground while I was standing there. Kind of weird.)
Figured instead of taking the wheel off and having it rebalanced I'd just score a bottle of Ride-On TPS (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1349.msg6184.html) and install that instead.
Post by: C_Mick on April 04, 2012, 03:28:16 PM
Instead of removing the speedo pick-up unit from the final drive casing I separated the connector under the RH side panel and left the unit in place in the final drive. I found that I didn't need to remove the rear mudguard or raise the bike with a block of wood under the center stand. There was sufficient clearance to remove the rear wheel with the bike on its center stand as normal. I did however have to remove an extension to the rear mudguard intended to prevent back-spray, which I had fitted many years ago. As a precaution against the swinging arm suddenly dropping down I used a webbing strap to secure it in its normal position. I used a similar strap between the center stand and front wheel to prevent the bike from rolling forwards off the stand.
The moment of truth concerning the drive splines came shortly after I used a rubber mallet to tap the final drive casing to break the seal with the swinging arm. On pulling the final drive casing clear I found the condition of the drive splines to be, well....PERFECT! There was just a fine film of lubricant on the splines and the oil seals were obviously doing the job they were intended to do. This is very good news considering the bike is 26 years old.
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_final-drive-shaft-spli.jpg)
Tomorrow I will clean and inspect the swinging arm and gearbox casings and if all seems OK I will go on to lube the splines and reassemble the drive train. As I write this I am considering renewing the 26 year old rear brake line even though it seems to be OK. I doubt I'm the only one to have observed that motorcycle maintenance sure is addictive.
Post by: billday on April 04, 2012, 05:28:51 PM
Felt good.
Went for a ride.
Post by: mystic red on April 04, 2012, 05:30:51 PM
Just for you, Red:
The wheel weights from when I had a tire installed a few weeks ago fell off of my front wheel. (I was changing the coolant, the bike was stationary and they just fell off onto the ground while I was standing there. Kind of weird.)
Figured instead of taking the wheel off and having it rebalanced I'd just score a bottle of Ride-On TPS (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1349.msg6184.html) and install that instead.
You been pizzing on your front wheel again?
Post by: C_Mick on April 06, 2012, 08:17:44 AM
Cleaned out the old grease and re-lubed the final drive splines.
Removed cleaned, lubed with silicone spray, and replaced the rear suspension unit (still on the original unit after 26 years).
Cleaned rear brake caliper and detached the brake line.
Replaced the final drive unit on the swinging arm.
Began cleaning accumulated crud off underside of bike. I'm a bit concerned about the amount of crud around the clutch actuating lever and the underside of the final drive unit.
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_26-years-of-crud.jpg)
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_final-drive.jpg)
To follow:
Replacement of rear wheel
Getting new rear brake line made up (considering steel braided hoses)
Post by: billday on April 06, 2012, 11:52:44 AM
One winter, everything will get painted the same color. I've always loved the dinged-up blue of my brick, but after looking at the shroud on my sofa for a week, I'm developing a fondness for red.
Post by: C_Mick on April 07, 2012, 03:04:49 PM
Finished cleaning the underside of bike
Replaced and torqued down rear wheel
Polished stainless silencer
Decided to keep the OEM rear brake line
Started to remove silencer heat shield for repainting (bodged an Allen screw, damn)
Tried to start bike from car battery - no joy
To follow:
Fault finding the electrics
Waiting for a few parts and a battery
Post by: frankenduck on April 07, 2012, 03:08:45 PM
heat shield for repainting
Consider ceramic coating it. Cost me $25 at a local shop.
Post by: DRxBMW on April 07, 2012, 07:20:54 PM
heat shield for repainting
Consider ceramic coating it. Cost me $25 at a local shop.
I painted my shield white.
Engine enamel paint, then baked in the kitchen oven @375 degrees for 40 minutes.
Held up VERY well, 4 years and counting.
BBQ paint is another option.
Check it out in the below pic.
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltyooly14M1qdbmyjo1_500.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on April 07, 2012, 08:36:44 PM
Post by: motodude on April 07, 2012, 10:55:19 PM
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/moto1dude/IMG_1837.jpg)
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/moto1dude/IMG_1839.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on April 07, 2012, 11:50:56 PM
Fresh brake fluid and fork oil. Boring.
Not for Idaho. That's like a state fair or something, isn't it?
(http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/store/img-hydroponics/vintage-comical-photo-postcard-idaho-double-date_320714772115.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on April 08, 2012, 01:14:25 AM
Fresh brake fluid and fork oil. Boring.
Not for Idaho. That's like a state fair or something, isn't it?(http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/store/img-hydroponics/vintage-comical-photo-postcard-idaho-double-date_320714772115.jpg)
I don't do fairs, carnivals, circuses or parades but I've been on many Idaho double dates. :embarass:
Post by: DRxBMW on April 08, 2012, 08:20:15 AM
I built a tail rack that mounts to the stock rack mounting holes and will hold a Reynolds rack back-rest. Quite strong but as is usual for me, not pretty. :laugh After I paint it, I'll mount a 12" x 16" x 1/8" aluminum plate on the rack for holding whatever soft bag I decide to use.
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/moto1dude/IMG_1837.jpg)
Confused of WHY one would ever hack up a perfectly good Reynolds flat rack ? Possible your flat rack is a different design than mine.
Quick release mounting plate is the way to go.
Please explain the back rest further. It only mounts via the front holes.
Reynolds flat racks are ANIMALS for strength due to the underneath strut support engineering.
Ha, watermelons, cases of bier,HUGE CRT computer monitor,etc., have been transported. :bmwsmile :bmwsmile
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vcLCs9ENvGs/RxNnAxgGf5I/AAAAAAAAAbI/xhyvnM3FTiE/s730/rat%2520bike.jpg)
Post by: DRxBMW on April 08, 2012, 09:16:03 AM
Confused of WHY one would ever hack up a perfectly good Reynolds flat rack ? Possible your flat rack is a different design than mine.
My bad, you fabricated a DIY flat rack. Good job, as I was under the impression it was a Reynolds with the curvature. Sorry about the misunderstanding.
The 4 OEM mount holes are for a bracket that fits to a BMW topcase. Did you already have the holes or DIY drill ?
I whipped up a custom "shelf type" luggage rack for the GS.
IMHO, BIGGER is always better for flat racks. EASY to covert back to the standard top case/tour box arrangement using shorter bolts, as the top case mounts with side flanges instead of underneath latch points.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KoJSnjAl4PQ/TyqmWkC_JKI/AAAAAAAAFDg/RMOnEQKFwvY/s912/Bald%2520Eagle%2520sf%2520II.jpg)
Post by: motodude on April 08, 2012, 11:46:58 AM
Confused of WHY one would ever hack up a perfectly good Reynolds flat rack ? Possible your flat rack is a different design than mine.
My bad, you fabricated a DIY flat rack. Good job, as I was under the impression it was a Reynolds with the curvature. Sorry about the misunderstanding.
The 4 OEM mount holes are for a bracket that fits to a BMW topcase. Did you already have the holes or DIY drill ?
I whipped up a custom "shelf type" luggage rack for the GS.
IMHO, BIGGER is always better for flat racks. EASY to covert back to the standard top case/tour box arrangement using shorter bolts, as the top case mounts with side flanges instead of underneath latch points.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KoJSnjAl4PQ/TyqmWkC_JKI/AAAAAAAAFDg/RMOnEQKFwvY/s912/Bald%2520Eagle%2520sf%2520II.jpg)
This is not a cut-up Reynolds rack. I have one of those too (still in one piece). It will mount the Reynolds _back-rest_, which was a design requirement for this rack.
I used the holes from the factory rack as mounting points. I can mount this rack to either of my K-bikes or any other K-bike I purchase in the future (assuming it has the factory rack).
As I indicated I will mount a piece of aluminum plate to it. In theory, I could mount any size aluminum plate I want. 12x16 should be about right.
I had several reasons for doing this.
1) The Reynolds rack is large, heavy, a pain in the ass to mount/dismount and you're left with the holes to cover/fill.
2) The factory rack is not flat. That has always irritated me. The rack on my Triumph Tiger was flat, I just mounted an aluminum plate to that, no problem (I also built mounts for the Reynolds back-rest that I could attach to that setup too).
3) I thought I could build a rack, using the factory mounting holes where the load would be carried slightly forward and lower than a load on the Reynolds rack. The rack would be lighter than the Reynolds rack. And, since I'm using the factory holes, I'm not left with something to cover/fill.
4) It seemed like a fun project, where I would end up with something useful. IOW, it seemed like a good idea at the time. Building stuff beats the hell outa watching TV.
My youngest son and I are planning a (~4700 mile) moto-camping trip to CO this summer and the "back-rest" on the 22 liter case leaves a bit to be desired. Not to mention that the 22 liter case just isn't big enough for two-up camping. So I was going to either have to mount the Reynolds rack or build something else.
Tom
Post by: motodude on April 08, 2012, 11:50:13 AM
I whipped up a custom "shelf type" luggage rack for the GS.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KoJSnjAl4PQ/TyqmWkC_JKI/AAAAAAAAFDg/RMOnEQKFwvY/s912/Bald%2520Eagle%2520sf%2520II.jpg)
Where did you get the "shelf" for the rack in this picture? Did you make it?
I like the lip on the trailing edge. It looks nice and I'm guessing helps hold a soft bag in place while tying it down.
Tom
Post by: DRxBMW on April 08, 2012, 12:17:13 PM
This is not a cut-up Reynolds rack. I have one of those too (still in one piece). It will mount the Reynolds _back-rest_, which was a design requirement for this rack.
I used the holes from the factory rack as mounting points. I can mount this rack to either of my K-bikes or any other K-bike I purchase in the future (assuming it has the factory rack).
As I indicated I will mount a piece of aluminum plate to it. In theory, I could mount any size aluminum plate I want. 12x16 should be about right.
I had several reasons for doing this.
1) The Reynolds rack is large, heavy, a pain in the ass to mount/dismount and you're left with the holes to cover/fill.
2) The factory rack is not flat. That has always irritated me. The rack on my Triumph Tiger was flat, I just mounted an aluminum plate to that, no problem (I also built mounts for the Reynolds back-rest that I could attach to that setup too).
3) I thought I could build a rack, using the factory mounting holes where the load would be carried slightly forward and lower than a load on the Reynolds rack. The rack would be lighter than the Reynolds rack. And, since I'm using the factory holes, I'm not left with something to cover/fill.
Tom
my opine:
*once a Reynolds flat rack is mounted, it staying there permanently. YES, it is a royal pain in the ass to install.
* confused about it's NOT flat terminology, mine is, various brands of top cases, all with the same quick release mount on the bottom, have been outfitted over the years.
* far stronger using the OEM one piece struts.
* trailing edge flat rack for the GS was hand fabricated, versatile, works well.
Did you spot the motobricK bling on the rack ? (K 75 spark plug cover)
Post by: motodude on April 08, 2012, 02:23:54 PM
my opine:
*once a Reynolds flat rack is mounted, it staying there permanently. YES, it is a royal pain in the ass to install.
* confused about it's NOT flat terminology, mine is, various brands of top cases, all with the same quick release mount on the bottom, have been outfitted over the years.
* far stronger using the OEM one piece struts.
* trailing edge flat rack for the GS was hand fabricated, versatile, works well.
Did you spot the motobricK bling on the rack ? (K 75 spark plug cover)
Yeah, my K75 had the Reynolds rack "permanently" mounted for many years.
The factory (K-bike) rack is not "level" may be a more accurate description. That has always irritated me.
Over the years I've found that I prefer soft luggage on the rear. It can expand and contract and is, in general, a more flexible device. So, I'm not looking for a place to attach a hard bag. I'm looking for a platform for tying down a duffle or some such (I have the mid-sized moto-fizz bag from Rider Wearhouse for example). Something very similar to the rack in the picture on the back of the F650GS is what I want.
I'm not sure what you mean by, "far stronger using the OEM one piece struts". Strength was a concern for me, especially using the tail section to carry the load (the Reynolds rack does not but they were selling a commercial product and I'm not). I've run the 22 liter case full of water bottles and it managed w/o any issues. I'll keep an eye on it for a while, going on shorter trips w/ less weight to start.
No, sorry, I missed the K75 spark-plug cover in the picture. Is it the "handle" on the top of the side-case?
As an aside, another design I considered was to take an aluminum (or a thinner piece of steel) plate and cut and bend the edges front and rear such that they fit into the slots in the factory rack. I abandoned the idea (which I still think would be a good (light weight) way to go) because I had the requirement of mounting the Reynolds back-rest and I could not see a "good" way to do that. The back-rest has to be mounted sturdily enough to rest ones back on.
Tom
Post by: DRxBMW on April 09, 2012, 08:36:33 AM
my opine:
*once a Reynolds flat rack is mounted, it staying there permanently. YES, it is a royal pain in the ass to install.
* confused about it's NOT flat terminology, mine is, various brands of top cases, all with the same quick release mount on the bottom, have been outfitted over the years.
* far stronger using the OEM one piece struts.
* trailing edge flat rack for the GS was hand fabricated, versatile, works well.
Did you spot the motobricK bling on the rack ? (K 75 spark plug cover)
Yeah, my K75 had the Reynolds rack "permanently" mounted for many years.
The factory (K-bike) rack is not "level" may be a more accurate description. That has always irritated me.
Over the years I've found that I prefer soft luggage on the rear. It can expand and contract and is, in general, a more flexible device. So, I'm not looking for a place to attach a hard bag. I'm looking for a platform for tying down a duffle or some such (I have the mid-sized moto-fizz bag from Rider Wearhouse for example). Something very similar to the rack in the picture on the back of the F650GS is what I want.
I'm not sure what you mean by, "far stronger using the OEM one piece struts". Strength was a concern for me, especially using the tail section to carry the load (the Reynolds rack does not but they were selling a commercial product and I'm not). I've run the 22 liter case full of water bottles and it managed w/o any issues. I'll keep an eye on it for a while, going on shorter trips w/ less weight to start.
No, sorry, I missed the K75 spark-plug cover in the picture. Is it the "handle" on the top of the side-case?
As an aside, another design I considered was to take an aluminum (or a thinner piece of steel) plate and cut and bend the edges front and rear such that they fit into the slots in the factory rack. I abandoned the idea (which I still think would be a good (light weight) way to go) because I had the requirement of mounting the Reynolds back-rest and I could not see a "good" way to do that. The back-rest has to be mounted sturdily enough to rest ones back on.
Tom
Newbie who just arrived here, has the un-flat Reynolds on his K 75 pictured below. Take it, yours is the same deal ?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S0d1UV2eIVM/T3taECHGVNI/AAAAAAAAfP8/OUv2gZS7gUo/s640/bmw-k75.jpg)
I'll snap some pics of the mounting struts on my Reynolds for clarification and report back this evening.
Seem to remember my Reynolds was the deluxe touring model.
I agree about top/touring/boxes/cases. Soft luggage is the only way too moto lashed on a flat rack.
Post by: motodude on April 09, 2012, 09:59:24 AM
my opine:
*once a Reynolds flat rack is mounted, it staying there permanently. YES, it is a royal pain in the ass to install.
* confused about it's NOT flat terminology, mine is, various brands of top cases, all with the same quick release mount on the bottom, have been outfitted over the years.
* far stronger using the OEM one piece struts.
* trailing edge flat rack for the GS was hand fabricated, versatile, works well.
Did you spot the motobricK bling on the rack ? (K 75 spark plug cover)
Yeah, my K75 had the Reynolds rack "permanently" mounted for many years.
The factory (K-bike) rack is not "level" may be a more accurate description. That has always irritated me.
Over the years I've found that I prefer soft luggage on the rear. It can expand and contract and is, in general, a more flexible device. So, I'm not looking for a place to attach a hard bag. I'm looking for a platform for tying down a duffle or some such (I have the mid-sized moto-fizz bag from Rider Wearhouse for example). Something very similar to the rack in the picture on the back of the F650GS is what I want.
I'm not sure what you mean by, "far stronger using the OEM one piece struts". Strength was a concern for me, especially using the tail section to carry the load (the Reynolds rack does not but they were selling a commercial product and I'm not). I've run the 22 liter case full of water bottles and it managed w/o any issues. I'll keep an eye on it for a while, going on shorter trips w/ less weight to start.
No, sorry, I missed the K75 spark-plug cover in the picture. Is it the "handle" on the top of the side-case?
As an aside, another design I considered was to take an aluminum (or a thinner piece of steel) plate and cut and bend the edges front and rear such that they fit into the slots in the factory rack. I abandoned the idea (which I still think would be a good (light weight) way to go) because I had the requirement of mounting the Reynolds back-rest and I could not see a "good" way to do that. The back-rest has to be mounted sturdily enough to rest ones back on.
Tom
Newbie who just arrived here, has the un-flat Reynolds on his K 75 pictured below. Take it, yours is the same deal ?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S0d1UV2eIVM/T3taECHGVNI/AAAAAAAAfP8/OUv2gZS7gUo/s640/bmw-k75.jpg)
I'll snap some pics of the mounting struts on my Reynolds for clarification and report back this evening.
Seem to remember my Reynolds was the deluxe touring model.
I agree about top/touring/boxes/cases. Soft luggage is the only way too moto lashed on a flat rack.
No, I was referring to the factory "rack". And, "level" is probably a better description than "flat".
The Reynolds rack I have looks like this one:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vcLCs9ENvGs/RxNnAxgGf5I/AAAAAAAAAbI/xhyvnM3FTiE/s730/rat%2520bike.jpg)
They made at least two models of rack that I'm aware of, maybe more.
Tom
Post by: billday on April 09, 2012, 08:42:43 PM
Gunk for the first layer of crap and grime, then a bunch of doses of Armor All, with Scotch Brite.
Wow. Never mind how much better it looks.... now I can pick it up without giving my hands a coat of black sludge.
Guess now I'll have to do the back wheel too.
Post by: Chaos on April 09, 2012, 09:18:00 PM
Post by: pallum on April 10, 2012, 03:39:42 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/z1YnVl.jpg)
A bit of frame repainting:
(http://i.imgur.com/5K6Z3l.jpg)
Tapped out the threads from the original center stand bolt:
(http://i.imgur.com/iBw13l.jpg)
Original issue here: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,905.msg3559.html#msg3559 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,905.msg3559.html#msg3559)
Injectors reconditioned, valve cover gaskets, new throttle cable, better (from spare alternator that came with bike) voltage regulator, replaced transmission input shaft, new clutch, full spline lube, oil change, refreshed assorted rusty/stripped bolts, some other general maintenance and tweaking. Glad to be back on the road.
Post by: Photog on April 10, 2012, 07:18:21 PM
But found that it didn't like going into neutral with the engine running.
Re-checked the clutch adjustment, discovered it needed some tweaking.
Yeehaaa time now :2thumbup:
Big improvement in shifting.
Next up, Vision X fog lights with heated grip switch circuitry documented by Duck, and an LED kit for the instruments
Post by: C_Mick on April 11, 2012, 07:17:32 AM
Re-assembled front mudguard (remember to fit the rear part of mudguard on the fork legs before fitting the front piece - it saves a lot of frustration).
Drained old gearbox oil, condition OK, level at very bottom of dipping tool, therefore too low. Relating this to oil and grime on underside of bike, on clutch actuating lever and base of final drive, possible cause is a failed oil seal on the gearbox output shaft? That at least is a working hypothesis. (The crush washer on the drain plug was badly chewed up – and the plug hard to remove; another instance of over-tightening syndrome.)
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_26-years-of-crud.jpg)
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_final-drive.jpg)
ng syndrome.)
Having removed the petrol tank I used a compressed air blower and a soft brush to remove dust and debris around the frame and wiring harness. Then I started to clean up electrical contacts using an aerosol spray intended for that purpose (unfortunately DeoxIt is not distributed in SA).
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_under-the-petrol-tank.jpg)
Post by: C_Mick on April 11, 2012, 07:36:39 AM
heat shield for repainting
Consider ceramic coating it. Cost me $25 at a local shop.
Thanks Duck, I'll check it out.
Post by: billday on April 11, 2012, 01:37:16 PM
The rubber seals on the old piece looked pretty tired. Hoping the new piece clears up the weepage I've been having.
Post by: billday on April 11, 2012, 01:48:34 PM
Scored a brand spankin new Aeroflow for $65 on Ebay. Nobody else bid! Could be they had it listed as a K755 instead of a K75s. Now i just gotta paint the rest of the parts and bolt everything together and my S will LOOK like an S again :clap:
Hey Chaos -- hate to see you leave the Meier fairing club -- but congratulations on all the new plastic!
Post by: Chaos on April 11, 2012, 09:36:59 PM
Post by: sh00ter on April 12, 2012, 10:00:23 AM
For the collective group - how does one check the tranny oil, i tried the curvy-wrench backwards into the hole trick and came up empty. Other ideas?
Post by: frankenduck on April 12, 2012, 10:06:00 AM
came up empty.
What do you mean by this? :dunno
Post by: sh00ter on April 12, 2012, 10:08:58 AM
came up empty.
What do you mean by this? :dunno
Sorry, I meant I tried using the curved wrench that came with the kit, I read somwhere that sticking the long end into the tranny fill plug would give you a dipstick of sorts. When I tested this (pre oil change) there was nothing on it; does that mean it was low or my methods suck? :biggrin:
Post by: frankenduck on April 12, 2012, 10:40:50 AM
Post by: sh00ter on April 12, 2012, 10:41:50 AM
Only the 2V shock wrenches have a line on them for checking the trans gear oil. Look in your tool kit for an L-shaped piece of metal:
Got it. No wrench like that; I'll build one.
Post by: Roy S. on April 12, 2012, 08:27:00 PM
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/Roy916/BBGeza.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on April 12, 2012, 10:07:02 PM
(And nice job tying down the front end. :yes)
Post by: Roy S. on April 14, 2012, 08:46:56 PM
Nice score there, Roy! :mbirdThanks... I got some great advice from this cool site http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2101.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2101.0.html) :bmwsmile
(And nice job tying down the front end. :yes)
Post by: sh00ter on April 14, 2012, 09:07:27 PM
New spark plugs
Post by: Crapdealerbob on April 15, 2012, 08:22:02 AM
ROAD TRIP !!
Post by: Chaos on April 15, 2012, 12:41:57 PM
Post by: Roy S. on April 16, 2012, 07:17:03 AM
Post by: Snowy on April 16, 2012, 05:03:39 PM
I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure.....
Post by: frankenduck on April 16, 2012, 11:57:33 PM
to decide whether to replace the clutch nut O ring or not while I'm in there. Never had the clutch off before - can't be that difficult, surely?
I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure.....
My motto: If it ain't broke, don't break it.
Post by: Snowy on April 17, 2012, 12:45:55 PM
to decide whether to replace the clutch nut O ring or not while I'm in there. Never had the clutch off before - can't be that difficult, surely?
I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure.....
My motto: If it ain't broke, don't break it.
I'm kinda leaning towards leaving it alone. The bike is low mileage but is used regularly and has not stood for any length of time in the 12 years I have owned it. I will tear it down and if there's no sign of oil I will leave it be. Off to the garage now to get the FD/Swing arm off.
Post by: C_Mick on April 17, 2012, 12:49:04 PM
(1) Having removed the petrol tank I drained the remaining fuel, cleaned and inspected the inside of the tank. Fortunately there is no sign of corrosion and I know the fuel filter has hardly been used. Fuel lines and sealing washers look to be fine. One of the rubber grommets that secure the tank on the frame had split in two and I need to replace it when I next order parts from BMW.
(2) With the tank off I continued the work of cleaning up and protecting electrical contacts. Today the ground connections under the tank, close to the steering head got the treatment: cleaning up with a 400 grade wet and dry abrasive sheet followed by a good spray of Spanjaard Lectro Kleen (substitute for DeoxIt).
Post by: TaosBrick on April 17, 2012, 11:13:57 PM
Balanced my throttle bodies today with this method:
CheeP (read: didn't cost a dime) Throttle Body Balancer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy07uiTDc1E#ws)
Gotta admit, I may not be the best on-camera talent :tongue
The only thing I find perplexing is that when I get things perfectly adjusted at idle, when I twist it up to 5k, the levels start to move again.
Is that ok, and should I just stick with the reading at idle? or should I get someone to hold the the throttle open at 4 or 5k, and quickly adjust it so it reads even there ???
Post by: frankenduck on April 18, 2012, 03:05:10 AM
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/sunset.jpg)
On Monday morning, I broke camp and headed north on Hwy 1, truly an epic morning with Hwy 1 all to myself and destined to be the greatest of motobricking days.
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/bigsur.jpg)
BUT when I hit Carmel the hose from the radiator to the water pump blew about a 3/4" gash in itself and peed out most of the coolant. I made it to Santa Cruz until the dreaded Motronic overheat light came on so I pulled into a parking lot and was forced to do something about it.
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/blownhose.jpg)
I called the two BMW dealers that were within 25 miles of me but my bike made the mistake of blowing up on Monday, when all of the dealers are closed.
Fortunately, I found a shady parking stall and there was an auto parts store only a couple of blocks away. The radiator hose repair tape they had was complete shite but I was able to effect a temporary, though still somewhat leaky, repair with that and some zip-ties.
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/temprepair.jpg)
My public workspace:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/shady.jpg)
I called Roy S. and asked if him if he could put me up for the night if I were able to limp to his place. Being a true morobricker he said no problem. Once I had things together and some coolant back in it, I hit the road. With a little experimentation I discovered that the speed which balanced the heat generated by the head against the cooling of the wind rushing past to minimize the stress on the cooling system was about 70mph. If you have a crippled bike that needs to get somewhere 165 miles away then 70 mph is a good thing. :2thumbup:
I made it to Roy S's place a little before six. He was already taking the low seat off of his recently purchased K75RT so that I could use it to retrieve a new hose from A&S in the morning and wouldn't be cramped riding a low seat but put a Corbin Dual Tour on instead. (Fingers crossed that they had one in stock.) Not only that but he'd gotten me some fresh Heineken which was coolly waiting in his garage fridge and very much appreciated. Roy certainly has earned Motobricker of the Week/Month/Year for how helpful he was to me. :mbird
I called A&S BMW right after they opened at 9am and they confirmed that they did indeed have the needed radiator hose in stock. (I asked the guy I spoke with to physically confirm that they had it on hand because computer inventory and real-life inventory often differ.)
So then I took Roy's "new-to-me" K75RT for a 30 mile ride up to A&S to get said hose.
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/aandsbmw.jpg)
And then I installed it.
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/roysworkbay.jpg)
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/hoseblow/newhose.jpg)
Thank you very much, Roy. I know that it probably wasn't a big deal to you but the help you provided me was invaluable. THANK YOU! I owe you one.
Post by: TaosBrick on April 18, 2012, 09:47:42 AM
Post by: sh00ter on April 18, 2012, 09:54:59 AM
Post by: orforester on April 18, 2012, 02:50:43 PM
Post by: Roy S. on April 18, 2012, 05:37:29 PM
Post by: frankenduck on April 18, 2012, 08:17:44 PM
Hey Ducker, any warnign signs we need to watch out for? Was it budging? A cut?
I think it was just an 18 year old hose. I did recently take the bottom of it off to change the coolant instead of messing with the temp sensor so I suspect that may have contributed to it's failure. The hoses are pretty cheap so I think next year when I change the coolant I may just replace the rest of them for peace of mind.
Post by: mystic red on April 18, 2012, 08:28:01 PM
Post by: frankenduck on April 18, 2012, 09:23:31 PM
Post by: Opie on April 18, 2012, 09:35:07 PM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7092126715_d376024473_c.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on April 18, 2012, 09:37:38 PM
Changed the fork oil today. 1 beer job...
You don't drink fast enough! :yes
Post by: mystic red on April 18, 2012, 09:44:33 PM
Quote
Not only that but he'd gotten me some fresh Heineken which was coolly waiting in his garage fridge and very much appreciated.
Missed that one the first read. That's above and beyond.
Post by: Chaos on April 19, 2012, 12:57:04 AM
Post by: TaosBrick on April 19, 2012, 01:07:46 AM
Had to slap the parts on to see how it looks. I think I'm gonna like it!
Are yuh gonna paint the hard cases too?
Post by: sh00ter on April 19, 2012, 11:29:53 AM
Changed the fork oil today. 1 beer job...
It never occurred to me to put beer in the forks.... :lol: :lol:
Post by: C_Mick on April 19, 2012, 02:00:13 PM
(1) Reassembled rear foot plate / brake line / brake pedal in readiness for new master cylinder reservoir to be couriered to me from Cape Town. Somehow I have missed connecting the rear brake light stop switch and I need to look into this.
(2) Pulled the spark plugs and buffed up the adapters at the head of the plugs as some corrosion was evident.
(3) Dismantled the handlebar switches and sprayed contacts with a cleaning aerosol.
Points 2 & 3 were undertaken because the bike has stood for too long unattended.
To follow: filling the rear brake line with Dot 4 brake fluid and bleeding the brake. Installing a new battery and seeing if the old girl starts and runs OK (after being neglected for too long).
Post by: frankenduck on April 19, 2012, 03:34:52 PM
Somehow I have missed connecting the rear brake light stop switch and I need to look into this.
Be careful not to pinch the rear brake switch wiring between the peg plate and the transmission or it can rub through and short out.
Post by: CRASH on April 19, 2012, 05:55:37 PM
Post by: C_Mick on April 20, 2012, 04:14:34 AM
(1) Sorted out the rear brake stop light switch and cable.
(2) While waiting for the m/c reservoir decided to remove, clean up and re-spray the heat shield covering the exhaust silencer / muffler.
Four of the five allen screws came out after an overnight soaking with penetrating oil. The last one was solid and the allen key stripped the socket of the screw. I don't have a screw extractor so I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the head of the screw to fit a large flat blade screwdriver, but I still couldn't turn the screw. I got it out by putting the screwdriver blade on the edge of the slot and bashing it round in a counter clockwise direction. It took me best part of an hour. When I replace the allen screws with bolts I'll put some anti-seize paste on the threads.
To follow: cleaning up and respraying the heat shield.
Post by: TaosBrick on April 20, 2012, 10:04:16 AM
Post by: Chaos on April 20, 2012, 09:39:18 PM
Had to slap the parts on to see how it looks. I think I'm gonna like it!
Are yuh gonna paint the hard cases too?
Nah, they get scraped alot and the paint would probably chip off, and I alway run with a tailcase so I'd have to paint that too and that's just too much work for this old dog........
Post by: TaosBrick on April 21, 2012, 10:15:27 AM
Had to slap the parts on to see how it looks. I think I'm gonna like it!
Are yuh gonna paint the hard cases too?
Nah, they get scraped alot and the paint would probably chip off, and I alway run with a tailcase so I'd have to paint that too and that's just too much work for this old dog........
I get it about the cases gettin' scraped up, mine came that way and I've added a few dings to 'em myself. It'd look pretty kewl, tho.
Post by: Snowy on April 21, 2012, 05:44:13 PM
Post by: Photog on April 21, 2012, 07:22:18 PM
Waiting for night to happen to give them a road test.
Update, went for a test run, the camera doesn't show the true result, but the illumination is mutch better than just the headlight. I think these will work out nicely.
Post by: Ken on April 22, 2012, 01:46:16 AM
Ohlin shock....fuel cooler, Piia lights. repaired windshield, changed the left controller to have the windshield adjuster thumb control on the left side. change the right switch bank to one with lights for the piia's. changed the master cylinder and handbrake light switch. bar balancer's or whatever the bar ends are called...they ones on the 97 were WAY heavier than the stock ones, and what a difference. finally the seat.
Rode GREAT.
Post by: thebob on April 22, 2012, 05:02:20 AM
Remedy * I took off one of the springs so it now behaves like a regular stand!
Post by: C_Mick on April 22, 2012, 11:03:28 AM
Before putting the tank back on the bike I let the SA sunshine evaporate any traces of fuel or water and then I vacuumed inside it:
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_tank.jpg)
Tomorrow I expect delivery of a new battery (I decided on a Motobatt) and a replacement m/c reservoir. Before I fill the rear line with brake fluid I wanted to be certain that a caliper piston isn't stuck. I connected a 12V tire inflator to the brake hose to the m/c and satisfied myself that the pistons move freely:
(http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq196/mick1/My%201986%20K75S/K75S_testing-caliper-piston.jpg)
@ TaosBrick, the bike has been standing unused for several years and in this part of SA it can be humid, particularly in Winter.
Post by: Scott_ on April 22, 2012, 07:10:27 PM
So I did some shock swapping....... Fox TwinClicker 2 onto the '97, then the Ram shock from the '97 to the '95.
Now to find out how much to have the hose replaced and refilled with oil.
Post by: mystic red on April 22, 2012, 08:04:31 PM
Bike ran great, BTW.
Post by: frankenduck on April 22, 2012, 08:18:10 PM
Post by: Inge K. on April 22, 2012, 09:29:32 PM
Still working on finding one for the final drive. :dunnoYou`re at the wrong side of the pond.
Stainless jewelry. (http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=YM&SbCt=BA_15_40_YM_55)
Inge K.
Post by: sh00ter on April 22, 2012, 10:22:43 PM
The old seal - what worked for me to get the ring out was to run a small screwdriver under the snap ring and above the seal just to wiggle the snap ring a bit. Then I could wedge it away from the wall with the same small screwdriver no problem and 'walk' it up and out. Before I did that I had just tried prying it out and it would not budge, after I ran the screwdriver around as I mentioned, it came out no problem. Perhaps a tight oil seal vapor lock??
(http://i.imgur.com/OxsGd.jpg)
Crud at the bottom of the slider
(http://i.imgur.com/TI1cl.jpg)
Picture of a new seal ( Try as I might when I was planning this, I could not find a good photo of what the seals look like )
(http://i.imgur.com/LmtWC.jpg)
I lightly scratched the inside of the tube getting the ring out
(http://i.imgur.com/3h1z0.jpg)
my "tool" patented for cleaning out the internal bottoms of the slider after I sprayed some grease remover down there.
(http://i.imgur.com/PgTRQ.jpg)
nice 'n shiny!
(http://i.imgur.com/xJMPg.jpg)
clockwise from top left (again for anyone that might ever be looking for pictures of the bits before they start: top bushing, bushing in slider (under seal), metal ring between seal and bushing, and the snap ring.
(http://i.imgur.com/5tJ2T.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on April 23, 2012, 12:03:00 AM
Still working on finding one for the final drive. :dunnoYou`re at the wrong side of the pond.
Stainless jewelry. (http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=YM&SbCt=BA_15_40_YM_55)
Inge K.
Yeah, here in the US I can find lots of generic stainless metric stuff but unique stuff like filler plugs is quite a bit harder to find. I was lucky to be able to find those tranny fill plugs and pay <$30 for six of them including shipping.
Post by: Roy S. on April 23, 2012, 09:22:46 PM
Post by: Niemand on April 24, 2012, 06:45:24 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0422.jpg)
Don'tcha hate how your lenses get all foggy after cleaning them with a banana? I've switched to citrus.
Post by: sh00ter on April 25, 2012, 10:20:31 AM
Post by: Opie on April 25, 2012, 11:43:01 AM
The fairing no longer jiggles. :giggles
-O
Post by: Opie on April 26, 2012, 02:01:50 AM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7244/7114872909_15b7ebfc22_c.jpg)
Post by: sh00ter on April 26, 2012, 10:27:39 AM
Tank looked really clean except for one tiny bit of rust starting under the fuel float
(http://i.imgur.com/N9o02.jpg)
Post by: wmax351 on April 26, 2012, 01:28:21 PM
Replaced fuel filter (6 years old) found some badly cracked line. Replaced the 1 inch line with new and just cut about 3/4" off the longer line to the pump (couldn't get the hose clamp off the pump end, and rather than make a bad situation worse, left it) rest of the hose looked great.
Tank looked really clean except for one tiny bit of rust starting under the fuel float
(http://i.imgur.com/N9o02.jpg)
The rust is coming from the fuel float: the tank is aluminium.
Post by: sh00ter on April 26, 2012, 01:31:07 PM
Replaced fuel filter (6 years old) found some badly cracked line. Replaced the 1 inch line with new and just cut about 3/4" off the longer line to the pump (couldn't get the hose clamp off the pump end, and rather than make a bad situation worse, left it) rest of the hose looked great.
Tank looked really clean except for one tiny bit of rust starting under the fuel float
The rust is coming from the fuel float: the tank is aluminium.
Funny; I was just re-looking at this picture thinking, does aluminum rust? :laugh :laugh
Post by: Chaos on April 26, 2012, 07:49:32 PM
Meanwhile, I finally broke down and bought an Odyssey battery for the beast. I can state for a fact that a brand new Odyssey outperforms a 7 year old Westco.
Post by: mystic red on April 26, 2012, 09:51:33 PM
Quote
I can state for a fact that a brand new Odyssey outperforms a 7 year old Westco.
:hehehe :hehehe :hehehe
Post by: Opie on April 26, 2012, 11:52:21 PM
Spec is 0.25mm to 0.30mm.
SO... does anybody have a box of shims and the valve shim tools they'd like to loan out? :dunno2:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6967977080_94bde605b9_c.jpg)
Post by: Duc750 on April 27, 2012, 03:37:20 PM
Post by: WayneDW on April 27, 2012, 07:59:54 PM
SO... does anybody have a box of shims and the valve shim tools they'd like to loan out?
I was able to find someone who loaned me the tool by contacting the local BMW owners club. You might try the same in Boulder. I bought the shim I needed at a dealer. wasn't too much as I recall.
Post by: sh00ter on April 27, 2012, 08:09:20 PM
Post by: BillyMac on April 27, 2012, 10:48:40 PM
Post by: Opie on April 28, 2012, 12:24:05 AM
Fixin up my rusty old heat shield
Looks good! I'm going to try shining mine up with some steel wool. It's looking pretty cruddy, too.
Post by: healthy on April 28, 2012, 01:29:15 AM
i changed my final drive oil today too, and it is only supposed to take 260mL. (says so in my clymer manual and worked out that way when i changed it.)
so yeah, rest easy.
tomorrow i tackle trying to change tires for the first time.
Post by: Chaos on April 28, 2012, 01:23:12 PM
Post by: Snowy on April 28, 2012, 04:05:39 PM
Post by: sh00ter on April 29, 2012, 07:46:18 AM
Hey Sh00ter,
i changed my final drive oil today too, and it is only supposed to take 260mL. (says so in my clymer manual and worked out that way when i changed it.)
so yeah, rest easy.
tomorrow i tackle trying to change tires for the first time.
cool thx !
Post by: Opie on April 29, 2012, 12:48:47 PM
Decided to change my left bag lock to a hasp lock like I did on the tailpac and other saddlebag. Those pot metal originals suk. While I had the implements of destruction out I removed those baggage straps that have been stretched out and worthless since the 80's. All they have done for the last 20 years is tangle up my extra bungee cords. Why the hell didn't I think of that when Bush senior was in office :loco:?
What's that thing with the yellow handle at the top?
By the way, your bags look very different from mine. I've got long plastic "hinges" at the bottom of each bag. I also see an original clasp in your photo and mine (still original, but repaired) don't look quite the same. What year is your K?
Post by: Inge K. on April 29, 2012, 01:14:23 PM
What's that thing with the yellow handle at the top?
Pop rivet gun...............time to run and buy.
The bag is the first generation side bag for the K.
And non genuine hinges................
Inge K.
Post by: frankenduck on April 29, 2012, 01:31:25 PM
last week the burd went to full on temp light ...
FYI: Cooling System Operation for K Bikes (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2287.0.html)
Post by: billday on April 29, 2012, 08:43:41 PM
Post by: BillyMac on April 29, 2012, 09:10:17 PM
Debating whether or not to replace the grill/grid with something different. Currently putting a fresh coat on the existing one, but looking at some alternatives.
Post by: frankenduck on April 29, 2012, 09:23:27 PM
Post by: BillyMac on April 29, 2012, 09:45:08 PM
Post by: frankenduck on April 29, 2012, 09:52:23 PM
Post by: wmax351 on April 29, 2012, 09:58:11 PM
Today, I checked the valve clearances on my 92 K75s. The center exhaust valve was way out of spec at 0.08mm. :eek2:
Spec is 0.25mm to 0.30mm.
SO... does anybody have a box of shims and the valve shim tools they'd like to loan out? :dunno2:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6967977080_94bde605b9_c.jpg)
I used a screwdriver to press down the cup, and a set of pliers to pull out the shim. Then measure the shim (or read the numbers on it), then figure out the new size needed. The BMW dealer (or your local indie wrench) will have them in stock. Kawasaki and Yamaha dealers also have ones that will fit: they are 29 mm. I think a KLR650 is the right shim type.
Post by: frankenduck on April 29, 2012, 10:28:10 PM
Quote from: wmax35I
think a KLR650 is the right shim type.
KLR parts on a Beemer? :yow Shame on you. :giggles
Post by: wmax351 on April 30, 2012, 12:55:53 AM
Quote from: wmax35Ithink a KLR650 is the right shim type.
KLR parts on a Beemer? :yow Shame on you. :giggles
Haha. I wouldn't do it, as there is a nearby bmw dealer. Blasphemy. But BMW riders are resourceful.
Ironically, the KLR shims are actually more expensive than the BMW ones.
Post by: sh00ter on May 01, 2012, 10:12:09 AM
Anyone know if the back brakes have any "tune-ability" once they're bled, working properly (meaning they stop the tire, if you push hard, abs kicks in, etc). I wish it was just a little more responsive near the top of it's travel, vs having to push it a bit before the brake really bites. Maybe that's just how she goes. Anyway .. just about done with all the maintenance for the year - front bleeding and coolant flush left to go.
Post by: Scott_ on May 01, 2012, 10:15:38 AM
Post by: sh00ter on May 01, 2012, 10:16:29 AM
You don't want the rear brake too sensitive or tight, you could end up with a "hot foot" literally. Just ask frankenduck or Mystic.
I"ll take that; like I said it does the job just fine; was more just curious if it was runnin right ... thx for the response! :2thumbup:
Post by: mystic red on May 01, 2012, 10:26:30 AM
Quote
Anyone know if the back brakes have any "tune-ability" once they're bled, working properly (meaning they stop the tire, if you push hard, abs kicks in, etc).
Noooooo! :nono
Almost burnt mine to the ground. :laugh
Post by: sh00ter on May 01, 2012, 10:33:45 AM
QuoteAnyone know if the back brakes have any "tune-ability" once they're bled, working properly (meaning they stop the tire, if you push hard, abs kicks in, etc).
Noooooo! :nono
Almost burnt mine to the ground. :laugh
:laugh Understood. Thou shalt not try to tune thy rear brakes once they are bled and working.
Post by: Opie on May 01, 2012, 11:45:42 AM
I used a screwdriver to press down the cup, and a set of pliers to pull out the shim. Then measure the shim (or read the numbers on it), then figure out the new size needed. The BMW dealer (or your local indie wrench) will have them in stock. Kawasaki and Yamaha dealers also have ones that will fit: they are 29 mm. I think a KLR650 is the right shim type.
Shims are shims, but I'm too chicken to try the screwdriver method. Special tools are in the mail. Hopefully they'll arrive today. :eek:
Post by: wmax351 on May 01, 2012, 01:06:02 PM
I used a screwdriver to press down the cup, and a set of pliers to pull out the shim. Then measure the shim (or read the numbers on it), then figure out the new size needed. The BMW dealer (or your local indie wrench) will have them in stock. Kawasaki and Yamaha dealers also have ones that will fit: they are 29 mm. I think a KLR650 is the right shim type.
Shims are shims, but I'm too chicken to try the screwdriver method. Special tools are in the mail. Hopefully they'll arrive today. :eek:
I'm probably going to make the tools this summer. Shouldn't be a big deal.
Post by: frankenduck on May 01, 2012, 01:42:47 PM
Post by: BillyMac on May 01, 2012, 01:49:41 PM
Added some Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner, and Engine Restorer(oil change was recent, so just added a bit to the current mix).
Post by: sh00ter on May 01, 2012, 02:01:10 PM
shOOter: I like having the some play in the rear brake peddle until the brakes kick in, it's useful for getting tailgaters off your butt or when you're engine braking and there's a car behind you because you can light up the brake light without actually braking.
that's a good call; i find myself "flashing" the folks behind me with the brake from time to time; didn't really occur to me that i'd lose that with a "nose through the windshield" type sensitive brake ... cheers!
Post by: pallum on May 01, 2012, 08:37:06 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/cBA0ml.jpg)
Yes, that is a piece of scotch pad stapled to a pencil chucked in a drill :loco:
Before:
(http://i.imgur.com/X8brtl.jpg)
High res (http://i.imgur.com/X8brt.jpg)
After:
(http://i.imgur.com/ikHtYl.jpg)
High res (http://i.imgur.com/ikHtY.jpg)
It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right? :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).
Post by: sh00ter on May 01, 2012, 09:44:46 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/IZvy7.jpg)
Post by: thebob on May 01, 2012, 10:57:44 PM
It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right? :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).
pallum even in the photo I can see deep corrosion that isn't going to buff out. In an extreme emergency you could fill those scars with epoxy, just to get you home, but I can see a new master cylinder in your future.
Brake systems are one place you should not be trying to make do and mend!
Post by: pallum on May 01, 2012, 11:07:44 PM
Quote from: thebob
but I can see a new master cylinder in your future
Already got one on the line, just tried this for the hell of it.
Post by: frankenduck on May 01, 2012, 11:19:33 PM
It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right? :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).
pallum even in the photo I can see deep corrosion that isn't going to buff out. In an extreme emergency you could fill those scars with epoxy, just to get you home, but I can see a new master cylinder in your future.
Brake systems are one place you should not be trying to make do and mend!
That's why bikes have two brakes: in case on of them fails. :eek:
(I agree that that one looks pretty hammered.)
Post by: wmax351 on May 02, 2012, 12:09:16 AM
It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right? :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).
pallum even in the photo I can see deep corrosion that isn't going to buff out. In an extreme emergency you could fill those scars with epoxy, just to get you home, but I can see a new master cylinder in your future.
Brake systems are one place you should not be trying to make do and mend!
That's why bikes have two brakes: in case on of them fails. :eek:
(I agree that that one looks pretty hammered.)
Cars often have two brake circuits, as well.
Post by: Scott_ on May 02, 2012, 07:58:22 AM
Cars often have two brake circuits, as well.
But you still only have 1 master cylinder. Then there is the manual cable emergency brake, so long as you use it occasionally and it's not froze up..... :2thumbup:
Post by: georgethegoat on May 03, 2012, 09:46:36 AM
:dunno
got it all back together.
feeling pretty good with my first "real" job on the brick (hell on any bike really), everything seems to be running smoothly besides a knock in the final drive that was not there previously — at least i didn't notice it.
all the splines were generously coated with guard dog 525 and looked to be in good shape from the clutch on back.
and i changed all the fluids (not brake or coolant) using duck's recommendations.
the noise is very distinctly from the final drive. at first i thought i may have misaligned the two pieces of the clutch that are factory synched but if i touch the transmission or clutch bell housing i feel nothing and can still hear the knock coming from the final drive. touching the final drive delivers a pronounced rhythmic knock.
i'm hesitant to drive it much more since i know these bikes frequently fail at the rear most spline.
any ideas?
otherwise i'm just gonna pull it off and check for irregularities and pop it back on with crossed fingers.
thanks again in advance.
Post by: Snowy on May 03, 2012, 03:02:04 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 03, 2012, 10:16:39 PM
Replaced or trimmed external fuel lines x3
Flushed Coolant
Checked Spark Plugs
Took L&R fairings off for paint re-touching
Replaced oil pressure switch
Cleaned air box/filter
Post by: pallum on May 05, 2012, 01:26:55 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/HO9CUl.jpg)
Post by: Opie on May 05, 2012, 02:04:27 AM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6998012694_7bf8c75de6_c.jpg)
Post by: Opie on May 05, 2012, 09:15:21 PM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7000631260_1a0d85f468_c.jpg)
Post by: jsb on May 05, 2012, 09:15:34 PM
Post by: frankenduck on May 05, 2012, 09:34:10 PM
Also got a new license plate for the K75F today. When I transferred title on the frame three years ago the gal at the licensing office set it up as a collector vehicle (no annual registration fees) and even though the bike isn't 30 years old as required the computer there accepted it. A couple of months ago I got a love letter from the WA DOL telling me that they were canning my collector vehicle title and sending me a normal one where I have to pay annual registration($53) on the bike. Oh well, at least I got about three years for free.....
Post by: CRASH on May 06, 2012, 11:40:49 PM
New tires soon ... love the Conti Road Attack 2s, but they just don't last that long. Dunlop Roadsmart 2s in the garage waiting. If these don't make me happy, I am considering stopping testing tires on this bike and go back to the ones that did all around the best, the Pirelli Angel STs. (Of course, I have not tried the Metzler Z8s yet .. hmmmmm)
Post by: canazei1200 on May 07, 2012, 03:40:37 AM
Its only done 800 miles that tyre.
Post by: Snowy on May 07, 2012, 04:11:35 AM
Post by: thebob on May 07, 2012, 05:56:16 AM
Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.
That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.
Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?
Post by: wmax351 on May 07, 2012, 02:43:45 PM
Removed the instruments, disassembled them, failed to repair the clock.
Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.
That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.
Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?
The one screw works fine on the back. They hold themselves in pretty good. The one screw just holds the cover.
If you have the clock out, you could send it to me, and I could try to fix it for you. Even from japan, it should only be a couple bucks shipping each direction.
Post by: frankenduck on May 07, 2012, 06:38:59 PM
(http://www.iliumworks.com/Images/10-300.jpg)
I suspect the diagonal hatching on it might cause more rapid boot toe wear so I covered it with 1" heat shrink tuning.
Post by: CRASH on May 07, 2012, 11:20:44 PM
I suspect the diagonal hatching on it might cause more rapid boot toe wear ...
It does, I have a similar cover on mine. Good call on the cover.
Post by: thebob on May 08, 2012, 02:10:19 AM
Removed the instruments, disassembled them, failed to repair the clock.
Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.
That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.
Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?
The one screw works fine on the back. They hold themselves in pretty good. The one screw just holds the cover.
If you have the clock out, you could send it to me, and I could try to fix it for you. Even from japan, it should only be a couple bucks shipping each direction.
I reassembled it is back in there. The whole right side of my meters are melted even the tach face is warped. The clock bezel is also misshaped. Most of it's working now, I might source a used one if it begins to bug me. Thanks anyway.
Post by: purkolator on May 08, 2012, 12:43:54 PM
Post by: canazei1200 on May 08, 2012, 01:00:27 PM
Post by: healthy on May 08, 2012, 01:03:17 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 08, 2012, 08:29:23 PM
Removed parabellum windshield and put factory one back on
Added tank bag
Ready to roll!
Post by: CRASH on May 10, 2012, 01:01:50 AM
Post by: mystic red on May 10, 2012, 01:21:35 AM
Post by: conybeare on May 10, 2012, 12:50:51 PM
Very interested to find out how the K75F performs on radials. Should be much better if the performance improvement on my K1100LT when I switched from bias to radials is any indicator.
Let us know how you like them - I'm about due for a new rear.
Post by: sh00ter on May 12, 2012, 10:10:28 AM
Put the LT left-hand switch on the RS in preparation for the upcoming cruise control install.
Added quick release fuel connectors to the 2 fuel tank lines (worth the price of admission, best mod ever)
Post by: mystic red on May 12, 2012, 10:25:18 AM
Quote
Added quick release fuel connectors to the 2 fuel tank lines (worth the price of admission, best mod ever)
Metal or plastic?
Post by: sh00ter on May 12, 2012, 10:28:00 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/kRKKZ.jpg)
When you pop them you only get about 6 drops of fuel - even under pressure. Took a bit of planning to get them in just the right place. I also went ahead and reversed one of them, so as to not accidentally hook the tank up wrong.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html)
Post by: mystic red on May 12, 2012, 12:56:18 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 12, 2012, 01:57:14 PM
I was hoping you were going to say that! Those do look nice but damn, they are proud of them.
you're not lying there. but, for the money it is the mos useful upgrade to assist in the wrenching dept.
Post by: healthy on May 12, 2012, 10:00:49 PM
well, on wednesday the other end of the same hose opened up and dumped coolant. so the bike was out of commission until this morning.
I also changed the rear tire, from an old but usable metzler to a new bridgestone spitfire. i'm going to give it a couple of hour ride tomorrow and see how it goes once it gets up to temp.
Post by: mystic red on May 12, 2012, 10:45:51 PM
Quote
I also changed the rear tire, from an old but usable metzler to a new bridgestone spitfire. i'm going to give it a couple of hour ride tomorrow and see how it goes once it gets up to temp.
What's the born date on that metzler? Good tread is not good if the tire is more than 3 or 4 years old. I'll climb off my soapbox now.
(http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/tiretech/determining_age/Post_2000_Full_Dot.jpg)
This tire was born on the 51st week of 2007. Not good when you only have two.
Post by: BillyMac on May 13, 2012, 12:32:42 AM
Just wanted a double-check that I got the correct BOSCH plugs as I notice the part number and gap are different(but within range) of others I've seen recommended:
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2037/img1271mq.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on May 13, 2012, 03:57:58 PM
Post by: robleyd on May 14, 2012, 02:20:02 AM
Post by: Inge K. on May 14, 2012, 05:16:49 AM
Just wanted a double-check that I got the correct BOSCH plugs as I notice the part number and gap are different(but within range) of others I've seen recommended:
The spark plugs is the correct ones, the part# on the box is Bosch...not BMW.
Inge K.
Post by: georgethegoat on May 14, 2012, 01:45:19 PM
Got radials (BT023 Front and Avon Azaro rear) installed on a spare set of K1100LT wheels so I can move the wheels from the K75F with the Mac 50s over to the other K75 when I give it a K1100 front end and brakes. Very interested to find out how the K75F performs on radials. Should be much better if the performance improvement on my K1100LT when I switched from bias to radials is any indicator.
Also got a new license plate for the K75F today. When I transferred title on the frame three years ago the gal at the licensing office set it up as a collector vehicle (no annual registration fees) and even though the bike isn't 30 years old as required the computer there accepted it. A couple of months ago I got a love letter from the WA DOL telling me that they were canning my collector vehicle title and sending me a normal one where I have to pay annual registration($53) on the bike. Oh well, at least I got about three years for free.....
Got this exact same set up about a month ago. The first 50-100 were a little weird because it was such a stark difference from the overdue metzler's i was riding. But now I love them. The bike really feels like it wants to go into turns.
Post by: BillyMac on May 14, 2012, 06:18:44 PM
The spark plugs is the correct ones, the part# on the box is Bosch...not BMW.
Inge K.
Awesome, thanks, didn't want to foul it up. It was throwing me off because the Bosch X5DCs on Beemer Boneyard's site had a different part number and were 0.6mm. Wasn't sure why my Bosch X5DCs were "off" :dunno2:
Post by: Inge K. on May 14, 2012, 06:45:32 PM
BMW specifies 0,6 +0,1mm, so both is within the range....
won`t be any problem to adjust it to the tighter opening if you want.
Inge K.
Post by: Duc750 on May 16, 2012, 05:15:43 PM
Replaced the gear indicator and all was going well until re installing th ABS II unit. The thread for the Master cyl to the unit has died in the unit. Time to hunt around for the tap kit and see if I can repair it enough to tighten up !
Bugger !
Post by: Duc750 on May 18, 2012, 05:00:23 PM
So after about 5 hours of winding in and out some "spare" loose brake nuts the threads are back in some kind of shape without needing to chase them with a tap, all the swarf has also been painstakingly removed. By loosening all of the lines off and fitting them to the unit first I've got them all back in and I hope never to have to remove the unit again !
So just rear wheel, final drive oil and brake bleeding to go and I have a mobile bike again ! :laugh
Post by: Inge K. on May 18, 2012, 06:46:39 PM
Well for what its worth if you ever have to re tap the threads in your ABS II unit keep in mind they are an incredibly rare pitch and diameter combination!
M10 x 1,0 , quite common on brake fittings.
Inge K.
Post by: sh00ter on May 19, 2012, 09:20:03 PM
at idle - ain't she a beaut? (it was way outta whack when I first plugged 'er in
(http://i.imgur.com/NpDQf.jpg)
Pretty simple hook up process.
(http://i.imgur.com/R6AYV.jpg)
Post by: sh00ter on May 20, 2012, 12:43:23 PM
Took the BMU apart and did the wire jumping; in the original box (just ripped out the circuit board and kept the pins for the 5 needed wires).
In the bike, just put the box back on and all done!
(http://i.imgur.com/n8dvQ.jpg)
The Jumpers
(http://i.imgur.com/s3Lni.jpg)
Post by: healthy on May 20, 2012, 02:29:00 PM
seals looked good, just full with crud. cleaned that stuff up and lets see if that is good enough. It will be nice to not have to actually order anything new.
I also got around to actually wrestling out my crankcase breather hose. Got the new one in after a bit of work. didn't think there was a hole, but i am now pretty sure there was (beyond what i broke while trying to yank the old one out.) seems to run/idle more consistently.
next step is to build up the beer bottle TB syncing tool. i'll try to get the materials at a science surplus store, i'll let you guys know how it goes next weekend.
Step after that is to pull off the rear and asses/lube those splines. (and possibly change this clutch nut o-ring that has seemed to heal since i got her started.)
Post by: ok75 on May 20, 2012, 10:50:56 PM
Going to buy an Odyssey battery tomorrow.
Post by: RockyMountainRider on May 20, 2012, 11:18:07 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 20, 2012, 11:30:37 PM
FINALLY replaced the fork seals and added some awesome looking (and super cheap) Rancho RS1952 fork boots on my 1994 K75S. Also, installed new tires (Bridgestone Spitfires - cheap and long lasting).Wish I'd seen those boots before I did my seals. Hate to pull the forks again but I just might spring $7 for the pair. Almost as good of a deal as I got on my Spirtfires. And I just scored an Odyssey cheap on Amazon. :2thumbup:
Going to buy an Odyssey battery tomorrow.
Post by: BillyMac on May 26, 2012, 06:05:00 PM
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9329/img1296k.jpg)
:loco: I assume these are heated grips? It was the same on the right grip as well with wiring running from each. I tried the switch in the past and got nothing, so I'm guessing they've been disabled or there's some other fault :dunno Any recommendations on where I should check for the culprit first? I traced the wiring as best I could and didn't really see any disconnections(short of dismantling the console).
Post by: mystic red on May 26, 2012, 07:02:04 PM
Post by: CRASH on May 26, 2012, 07:21:35 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 26, 2012, 07:26:13 PM
I have run out of tires to try on this bike.
What are your favorites? I'm running Z6's and like them quite a bit...
Post by: Inge K. on May 27, 2012, 06:16:03 AM
Yep, those are heated. Check the fuse first.
If the fuse did blow, a lot of other things wont function....start circuit,,,instruments,,,brake light.
Here is a picture of the intermediate wiring (which also include a resistance wire).
(http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr326/IngeKarlsen/kontaktervarmehndtak.jpg)
Inge K.
Post by: CRASH on May 27, 2012, 04:32:12 PM
I have run out of tires to try on this bike.
What are your favorites? I'm running Z6's and like them quite a bit...
Remember, I have the new fangled K ... with the goofy front end, so it deals with tires differently. Personally, I think the Pirelli Angel STs are the best all around tire for my riding style. Handle well at speed, longevity is decent (5k average), don't start acting wonky half way through their life. FYI, the Z6s for me were not up to my riding style. The front end never felt planted and they slid around a lot on me. I could power slide the bike through corners on command ... not too bad, but sometimes it would want to do it on it's own volition ... this was not fun.
I have a document I have reviewed the tires I have run on this bike ... maybe I will format that and post it up if people are interested. So far it includes Z6s, Pirelli Angel ST, Avon Storm 2s, PR2, PR3, Tomahawk Remanufactured tires from hell, BT-023, and Conti Road Attack 2s.
Post by: billday on May 28, 2012, 08:02:51 PM
1) Compression check. Came up 150 PSI on cylinders 1, 2 and 4; 140 PSI on cylinder 3. Not bad!
2) Balanced the throttle bodies with a 4-channel Carbtune Pro. Thanks Duck as always for your great how-to.
3) New spark plugs. (This should be embarrassing -- I've ridden this bike over 13,000 miles in 20 months and never pulled the plugs. I have no idea how long they were in there before I bought it. Happily, all four had a healthy grayish tone, no signs of ill health. They were Champion RA6HC's; the new plugs are Bosch, from Beemer Boneyard.
Still to do: adjust the "choke" and the idle speed (balancing the TB's seems to have cooled down the idle).
Post by: mystic red on May 28, 2012, 10:06:01 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 29, 2012, 01:25:06 PM
if i can do it on the bed of a truck in a hotel parking lot on a 90 degree day with the unrelenting sun beating down... you can do it in your cozy garage... 4 hours total... all because dr l duck Hubbard explains splientology (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,490.0.html)...
this is the 1st time i have had this apart... the previous owner had a dealer receipt for a $600 spline lube at 40k miles... im at 90k miles now so i wanted to swap in a 30k mile driveshaft and lube the splines...
i found some not very sticky green goo on the splines at the drive shaft output and at the final drive... butts the driveshaft input splines still had the oem goo on there... so... the that dealer didnt remove the swing arm and goo up the input splines... you just cant trust those dealers... best to do it you self... if i can do it... you can do it... really...
so... new rear pr2... new to me driveshaft... spline lube with guard dog + honda 60 cocktail... new final drive fluid...
had to take the landing gear handle off our trailer to lever that 12mm... he he he... got it done...
j o
Hey JO - nice work man! Where'd you get those fancy rear-end helmet locks? They look like they might actually be use-able ....
Post by: CRASH on May 29, 2012, 02:15:16 PM
Post by: billday on May 29, 2012, 06:59:54 PM
That seems to be a bit excessive on the moly lube application. :yowIt's how they do it in the church of splientology.
Post by: TaosBrick on May 31, 2012, 08:49:21 PM
Procedure went as follows:
Old ones removed.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/100_8690.jpg)
New ones on.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/100_8693.jpg)
Hmm... Kinda like the Café look. Not too practical tho.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/100_8694.jpg)
Getting this washer/spacer stack right was the hardest part.
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/100_8695.jpg)
All Done - Looks Shweet, will ride shweeter. Thanks Duck!
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd366/thepiper1/Motobrick%20stuf/100_8698.jpg)
Post by: tsbt on June 01, 2012, 03:58:24 PM
Post by: tsbt on June 01, 2012, 04:09:16 PM
Post by: Chaos on June 03, 2012, 01:17:20 AM
Post by: Snowy on June 03, 2012, 04:15:00 AM
Post by: sh00ter on June 03, 2012, 07:45:25 PM
Added the blessed cruise control ( aahhhhh ) It went very well .. Using red's "pit of hades" location for the servo. Added three LED switches to the left fairing - one for the cruise power; one for a manual fan switch; and the other to shut off the massive JO conspicuity lights (should i ever decide to do so)
Here's some fun photos:
hooking up the throttle body
(http://i.imgur.com/dzxIq.jpg)
Mount for the servo cable
(http://i.imgur.com/9kFwU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fyDfP.jpg)
Relays 1 & 2
(http://i.imgur.com/glVtL.jpg)
Relays (one for the servo power, one for the LED brake light)
(http://i.imgur.com/yfR1O.jpg)
the 3 LED switches (yeah, I f**d up the rubber a bit, thinking of ways to fix/obscure this)
(http://i.imgur.com/6mMiJ.jpg)
Quick disconnects so the inside fairing can be removed
(http://i.imgur.com/TpZgL.jpg)
Building the switches / wiring
(http://i.imgur.com/QXHj5.jpg)
The pit of hell
(http://i.imgur.com/mENq2.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on June 03, 2012, 07:54:10 PM
Post by: sh00ter on June 06, 2012, 01:09:59 PM
Post by: Crapdealerbob on June 07, 2012, 12:21:19 AM
Post by: Brickhead on June 07, 2012, 07:30:15 AM
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/DSC00156.jpg)
And this:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/DSC00147.jpg)
I am hoping this from the present shifting issues.
Post by: sh00ter on June 07, 2012, 11:23:23 AM
Replaced exhaust rubber grommet (made an improvement in reducing high RPM vibration) - mine was mostly shredded
#12 in the diagram
(http://i.imgur.com/TOtLf.jpg)
Post by: canazei1200 on June 07, 2012, 11:46:27 AM
Post by: healthy on June 10, 2012, 02:32:56 PM
I've also added some brake quiet to the rear of my pads, but with only partial results. I'll go for another application later or maybe next weekend.
Also trying to tackle a very slow but persistent leak in my front tire. Basically I find it down by 8-10 psi each weekend. Not sure where it is coming from, definitely no foreign punctures. I swapped in a new valve core and I'll see how that is after a couple days. If that doesn't do it I'll swap the whole stem next weekend. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll put in the wheel gunk, though I'd really rather not. Running dynabeads right now, not sure if the leak gunk will fill the same balancing role.
Now if it wasn't so hot right now I'd be trying to find the most wind blast free position for the shield. As it is I'm inside drinking ice water.
Post by: frankenduck on June 10, 2012, 09:07:14 PM
Post by: mjydrafter on June 12, 2012, 07:21:51 AM
I installed the harness to run a 90/130 headlight. That things like a freakin laser, man. :laugh
I will be receiving my new to me final drive on Thursday and will install it that night hopefully. I went ahead and got a Qt of Redline heavy shockproof gear oil to go in it, from Jegs.
Since I have had the final drive off twice now (I did the full spline lube a month ago, FD, DS, and Clutch), I can pull the final drive and put it back on in an hour or less. :k75s
Post by: Brickhead on June 13, 2012, 06:52:13 AM
Heading for the transmission and gear shift mechanism. I got way too much slop in the lever. Going to paint the wheel, changed out the fuel quick disconnects, and give it a real good looking over.As of 6/11/2012:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/DSC00156.jpg)
And this:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/DSC00147.jpg)
I am hoping this from the present shifting issues.
Found the grub screw very loose on the shifter arm so tightened it up with loctite and reverse the process. I am also in the process of packing to move and must have packed or lost the rear wheel spacer. For the life of me I have no idea where it went. I suspect it maybe in the dumpster. But thanks to Mr. Duck I will have another today or tomorrow. I also changed out the plastic fuel QD's, repositioned the Motolight relay and fuse, re-secured the Audiovox cruise vacuum unit in the tail storage, checked my air filter, and routed some wiring. All in all a busy few days.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/Shiftleverrepair73.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/Untitled-3.jpg)
Post by: branandfox on June 18, 2012, 05:51:05 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200768183180#ht_1572wt_976 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200768183180#ht_1572wt_976)
Ill post pics of changing out the lines and injectors soon!
P.S: There is another set for sale here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200767009136#ht_1571wt_976 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200767009136#ht_1571wt_976)
Same Injectors. If your looking to have yours serviced maybe its time to upgrade?
Post by: mjydrafter on June 19, 2012, 09:05:54 AM
Thanks for the write-up frankeduck.
I found out that I really want a GPS for the old girl, and cruise control, and... :yes
Post by: Brickhead on June 19, 2012, 01:19:59 PM
Post by: Opus on June 19, 2012, 02:16:41 PM
Now if they will ship my windscreen I can finish part 1 of my rebuild... :dunno2:
Opus Out!
Post by: Opus on June 20, 2012, 10:37:17 PM
Pictures tomorrow...Goning to bed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Post by: CRASH on June 21, 2012, 06:49:39 PM
Post by: Opus on June 21, 2012, 07:40:17 PM
Here are some pix.
Got the Motorola Droid Car mount installed and tested. It works great...
Post by: WayneDW on June 21, 2012, 08:26:58 PM
Post by: mystic red on June 22, 2012, 06:12:52 PM
Quote
Got the Motorola Droid Car mount installed and tested. It works great...
Needs the details on this, please....
Post by: mystic red on June 22, 2012, 08:41:04 PM
Put the Burd on the tender.
Post by: Chaos on June 23, 2012, 11:12:15 AM
Post by: mystic red on June 23, 2012, 12:22:30 PM
Torqued heads (loose) adjusted valves (loose) all after 1100 km! Oh wait, that was on the Ural....the damn K bike never needs anything except gas :laugh :laugh :k75s :2thumbup: :2thumbup:
Pennies to maintain.....
Post by: Scott_ on June 23, 2012, 12:39:37 PM
Post by: tsbt on June 24, 2012, 07:50:05 PM
Chris
Post by: Opus on June 25, 2012, 04:07:10 AM
Hi,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Been in busy this week. :dunno
After a test ride on a very bumpy road found that the cradle that mounts to the arm does not hold position very well. If riding on a smooth road it works great.
I'm working out the kinks and will post a full report with photos & parts list when I have it down pat. :confused:
Post by: branandfox on June 26, 2012, 02:37:27 PM
Replaced injectors with a 4 Hole spray Injector for better flow
Also replaced all the fuel lines while I was down there.
The injectors sound a little different to, you can actually here them running if you pay attention to them.
More Humming for the brick!
** Ran a good 5-10 Miles on them. Definetly alittle more throttle response and torque! No more Stuttering as you decrease RPM's either. A Lot more reponse for the buck I'd say. Original OEM Injectors never serviced and bike is at 33K Miles now.**
Starting to feel like new again!
Post by: mystic red on June 26, 2012, 08:50:47 PM
Post by: branandfox on June 27, 2012, 11:38:29 AM
Post by: TimTyler on June 27, 2012, 09:20:28 PM
and a quick trip to Mt St Helens.
Post by: frankenduck on June 27, 2012, 09:34:29 PM
Is Windy Ridge open yet?
Have you seen this: MotoDungee 2012 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1566.0.html)
Post by: TimTyler on June 27, 2012, 09:58:19 PM
I'll mark my calendar for MotoDungee and see what happens with my work schedule. Always open to last-minute rides in WA too, but it's hard for me to plan much in advance.
Post by: Scott_ on June 27, 2012, 11:22:22 PM
Broke in my "new to me" No-Mar tire changer, worked just fine. Something I should have done a couple of years ago....
Post by: sh00ter on June 29, 2012, 10:20:13 AM
Well, tonight I mounted up some new rubber on the '95. PR2 on the front and Avon Azero on the rear.
Broke in my "new to me" No-Mar tire changer, worked just fine. Something I should have done a couple of years ago....
can you link me to this tire changer beast?
Post by: Scott_ on June 29, 2012, 06:39:57 PM
Well, tonight I mounted up some new rubber on the '95. PR2 on the front and Avon Azero on the rear.
Broke in my "new to me" No-Mar tire changer, worked just fine. Something I should have done a couple of years ago....
can you link me to this tire changer beast?
Here ya go.
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/1 (http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/1)
This is the one I got. Yes it's manual, but it works ok for me, better than just irons/spoons.
Found a used one on C.L. in Florida for $200
Post by: CRASH on June 29, 2012, 06:43:02 PM
.nomartirechanger.com/products/1]http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/1[/url]
This is the one I got. Yes it's manual, but it works ok for me, better than just irons/spoons.
Found a used one on C.L. in Florida for $200
That is a smokin deal. I have a "Cycle Hill" ... the non industrial version of the NO MAR, but way better than I have seen in most shops. Cost almost 3 times what you paid for that No Mar ... :2thumbup: Makes changing tires a party!
Post by: TimTyler on June 29, 2012, 10:27:38 PM
I've had a new oil level indicator sight glass sitting on the shelf for 10 months but I always forget to install it at oil changes. The sight glass on the bike is nearly impossible to see through. I realized last night that if the bike was on the side stand the glass can be changed without draining the oil. Doh!
I decided on the screw method (not the soldering iron method) to remove the old glass (which is actually plastic) and the old sight glass came out without much of a fight. A screwdriver, sheetrock screw, and some needle-nose pliers did the trick.
I cleaned the aluminum mounting surface and the rubber ring around the glass with an oily rag, and proceeded to push the new sight glass into place. Then it occurred to me that both surfaces should probably be clean and mostly free from oil residue so I wiped them down with a clean cloth.
It took a few tries to get the new sight glass in place evenly with my fingers, about halfway installed. The largest socket I have is a 1-1/8 and that, along with a rubber mallet finished the job, but I had to hit the socket a little harder than I though necessary to seat the rubber seal. I fired up the bike, let it get hot enough for the fan to kick in for a while, and it all looked great.
Today I started thinking that maybe the mounting surface and rubber seal should be ultra-dry and clean, and a little internet reading seemed to substantiate that. I also stumbled onto some threads where different rider's sight glasses had fallen out while the bike was in use, and some had reported seeing the glass get "cloudy" just before. I imagined how tragic it would be to have it pop out on the highway at 70mph, with oil gushing under the rear wheel.
So this afternoon I fired up the bike again, let it get a little warm, and noticed an odd fogging in the sight glass. I didn't look like frothy oil, but more like stationary vertical cloud streaks on the inside glass surface with clean brown oil behind them. Had I broken the glass under the rubber seal when hammering it in? Was it not seated enough? I'm not taking any chances.
The new level indicator is actually made of glass so the soldering iron method will not work to remove it, and the screw method has the potential to leave shards of glass in the oil pan. The only way I could figure to remove it safely was to drain the oil, pull the oil filter, and tap the viewing glass from inside the oil pan with a long screwdriver. That worked.
Tomorrow I'll pickup a new sight glass / level indicator (and a spare) at the dealer and finish the job properly. I'll stop by the hardware store and get a short piece of 1.25" PVC or a wood dowel (a better fit than my 1-1/8 socket) to help tap it into place too. And I'll thoroughly clean all surfaces.
Moral of the story: Measure twice, cut once. Do your research first.
Post by: mystic red on June 29, 2012, 10:50:32 PM
Post by: sh00ter on June 30, 2012, 11:50:16 PM
Apparently my leak was coming from the top of the oil pump - the half moon pressure relief slot was partially plugged as was the relief in the casting of the pump.
Here they are all spiffed up. There was a bit of rust on the impeller and the bolt; I'd guess from the times in her life where she sat for an extended period of time.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JAZayk_DfKE/T-9SQwF3yFI/AAAAAAAADFU/AThEqFKkXZw/s400/20120630_102242.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DfO5Jbg6df4/T-9Sp6VeoZI/AAAAAAAADFc/HJaHlnKx3lU/s640/20120630_102251.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M7CnWKbs5Ac/T-9S7inzlzI/AAAAAAAADFo/BJDjt0kxUTM/s400/20120630_102259.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-07icxu1pnnc/T-9UG16NJ_I/AAAAAAAADGM/JIwBebAdKuU/s400/20120630_102331.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mYeJOoNHEqY/T-9U2SRI_3I/AAAAAAAADGc/8AaQc_KV0rY/s400/20120630_102342.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R3HgO-Tl0yk/T-9VFr8zJJI/AAAAAAAADGk/nkCtD7_Tsuw/s400/20120630_102352.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hSC6aUjuIyM/T-9zUy9quCI/AAAAAAAADHE/WV5gC0Wa7_s/s400/20120630_103814.jpg)
Post by: sh00ter on July 01, 2012, 05:43:00 PM
Post by: roninvt on July 02, 2012, 05:25:03 PM
Post by: sh00ter on July 04, 2012, 02:08:43 PM
Today was the day I installed my new Upgraded injectors! heres the before and afters.
Replaced injectors with a 4 Hole spray Injector for better flow
Also replaced all the fuel lines while I was down there.
The injectors sound a little different to, you can actually here them running if you pay attention to them.
More Humming for the brick!
** Ran a good 5-10 Miles on them. Definetly alittle more throttle response and torque! No more Stuttering as you decrease RPM's either. A Lot more reponse for the buck I'd say. Original OEM Injectors never serviced and bike is at 33K Miles now.**
Starting to feel like new again!
Are these the injectors?
fleabay injectors (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200784591238?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D200784591238%26_rdc%3D1)
Post by: TimTyler on July 04, 2012, 03:27:05 PM
Could never figure out how to get the air filter out of the box since the top only lifts about .5cm.
"WTF kind of design is that?" I said to myself on previous attempts.
Read a forum thread that mentioned in passing that the filter IS PART OF THE BOX (not IN the box) and it simply slides out. Well, hot damn. :hehehe
Post by: BillyMac on July 04, 2012, 06:59:34 PM
Time to enjoy the rest of the 4th riding around :tongue
Post by: branandfox on July 06, 2012, 03:58:46 PM
Ducks Review Below.
Butt Dyno definitely approves. :2thumbup: When I went from a 32:10 K75 monolever to a 32:11 paralever final drive it seemed a little luggish in low RPMs in first. That's pretty much gone now and it seems to have better torque through the whole range. As for smoothness, that's pretty hard to tell since the K75 is so smooth in the first place.
Five Motobirds!
:mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird
PS! Im not sure the difference in the K1100 and K100 Versions of the bosch injectors, If you have a K100 there are K100 plug and play models by Osidetiger somewhere floating around. Just make sure they are compatible! :hmm:
Oh did I mention they are sexy aswell? Because they are!
Post by: sh00ter on July 07, 2012, 10:42:12 PM
Yeah shooter, that be them! Duck actually just installed some as-well so if you want a second opinion of them then hes got it! more torque, Maybe a little bit of a smoother engine, and Better MPG! Its a Great upgrade!
Ducks Review Below.Butt Dyno definitely approves. :2thumbup: When I went from a 32:10 K75 monolever to a 32:11 paralever final drive it seemed a little luggish in low RPMs in first. That's pretty much gone now and it seems to have better torque through the whole range. As for smoothness, that's pretty hard to tell since the K75 is so smooth in the first place.
Five Motobirds!
:mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird
PS! Im not sure the difference in the K1100 and K100 Versions of the bosch injectors, If you have a K100 there are K100 plug and play models by Osidetiger somewhere floating around. Just make sure they are compatible! :hmm:
Oh did I mention they are sexy aswell? Because they are!
Sold! Gonna get me a set too. I gotta replace some hoses in there, figure I may as well throw a performance "fun" upgrade in there while I'm at it :)
Post by: branandfox on July 08, 2012, 04:18:56 AM
Post by: branandfox on July 09, 2012, 07:00:43 PM
Post by: frankenduck on July 09, 2012, 07:04:09 PM
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f/k75f_518_mirror_leashes.jpg)
Post by: branandfox on July 09, 2012, 07:14:07 PM
Post by: tsbt on July 12, 2012, 09:45:24 AM
Stainless steel fishing leader "leash" so they don't fall to the ground and will stay with you if they come off at speed:(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f/k75f_518_mirror_leashes.jpg)
And if you're ever camping near a creek and need a spare! What pound line is that?!
Post by: frankenduck on July 12, 2012, 09:48:40 AM
And if you're ever camping near a creek and need a spare! What pound line is that?!
30
If you're using a 30# leader to fish in a creek then you're doing it wrong. :loco:
Post by: Chaos on July 15, 2012, 11:38:12 AM
Post by: TimTyler on July 15, 2012, 06:05:45 PM
the brick of the corn is in hibernation ...
In July??
Post by: mystic red on July 15, 2012, 08:32:37 PM
Post by: CRASH on July 15, 2012, 08:54:22 PM
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f/k75f_518_mirror_leashes.jpg)
So I keep looking at this picture, you need to explain the "shell" of your mirror and show some other angles.
Post by: TimTyler on July 15, 2012, 09:08:12 PM
...you need to explain the "shell" of your mirror ...
Have a look at this http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/k1100rs/k1100rs_mods.htm#bellypan (http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/k1100rs/k1100rs_mods.htm#bellypan)
Post by: sh00ter on July 17, 2012, 04:13:29 PM
replaced breather hose (responsible for oil leak; it was nearly severed at the block)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z_lJV1xU6JQ/UAXFrIkKyrI/AAAAAAAADMg/5VtpJBLSfIY/s400/20120715_155007.jpg)
new rebuilt 4 hole injectors
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p9Sv9yydA4w/UAXFX7RYJHI/AAAAAAAADME/pR3qvUilTAE/s400/20120716_201151.jpg)
cleaned and re-gapped spark plugs (2 were a little foul)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zUV6Uz74G3U/UAXFfxoVeII/AAAAAAAADMM/zXkm972hchs/s400/20120716_190600.jpg)
sync'd throttle bodies
Unrelated added a "new" way to connect the cruise control - straighter pull and a smoother, quicker engagement (ymmv)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-463WOc3IxWs/UAXFkavhBQI/AAAAAAAADMY/BQdBWC0d-c8/s400/20120716_201130.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on July 19, 2012, 09:23:49 PM
Post by: Crapdealerbob on July 19, 2012, 09:39:39 PM
This afternoon I installed a cruise control with a windscreen switch for CDB and then synch'd his TBs.
Thanks again Duck, see you Sunday evening !!
Post by: tsbt on July 20, 2012, 01:57:33 PM
This afternoon I installed a cruise control with a windscreen switch for CDB and then synch'd his TBs.Nice, I'd love to hear how that all went!
Post by: CRASH on July 20, 2012, 02:24:47 PM
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/329320_3938751721001_687249457_o.jpg)
Post by: Opus on July 20, 2012, 03:04:12 PM
Post by: sh00ter on July 20, 2012, 03:08:50 PM
This afternoon I installed a cruise control with a windscreen switch for CDB and then synch'd his TBs.
when you do this, do you find that letting rest up against the fiaring (as you have in the photo) makes a differences on the reading - vibration of the bike and all, or do you try to hold it away from the bike itself? I've done both .. just curious on your take.
Post by: frankenduck on July 20, 2012, 03:41:16 PM
Post by: doctorchad on July 21, 2012, 01:56:53 PM
Post by: branandfox on July 21, 2012, 03:27:27 PM
Post by: frankenduck on July 21, 2012, 03:51:21 PM
exactly my problem. needing a Russell Day Long for the lady to keep comfy on!
Fixt.
Post by: doctorchad on July 21, 2012, 06:23:55 PM
http://www.alligatorbob.com/ (http://www.alligatorbob.com/)
Post by: BillyMac on July 21, 2012, 08:25:38 PM
Then test rode it to the Santa Rosa BMW Motorcycles swap meet :bmwsmile
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6029/img1391up.jpg)
good - normal - bad - omg stop riding now?
Post by: mystic red on July 21, 2012, 11:03:38 PM
Post by: Scott_ on July 21, 2012, 11:14:09 PM
Post by: argent brick on July 22, 2012, 12:39:35 AM
Did they have anything good at the swap meet?
Post by: DRxBMW on July 22, 2012, 06:40:42 AM
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6029/img1391up.jpg)
good - normal - bad - omg stop riding now?
shifting forks have seen some wear, hence the metal shaving on the drain plug.
Be me, I would flog the bricK hard for 700- 1000 miles , re-drain & see if the shaving are still present.
Ideally, there should be a metallic paste NOT chunks of metal leftovers on the plug.
Post by: Rick G on July 22, 2012, 08:11:05 AM
Post by: BillyMac on July 22, 2012, 09:52:55 AM
I'm wondering if some of it may have been from me learning to shift on a K bike. I did have some hitches :embarass:
argent brick - Unfortunately they decided to pack up early about 10 minutes before I arrived. But I did get to see some K75s and talk to one owner that did an awesome restoration on his(told him about motobrick too).
Post by: Opus on July 23, 2012, 07:14:46 PM
Turned out good I think.
You can't see the patches unless you are close up.
Post by: TimTyler on July 26, 2012, 09:02:32 PM
Routing the new cable wasn't as difficult as I expected.
When I took apart the throttle grip and removed the front master cylinder, this electrical connection (attached image) popped off when I wasn't looking and now I can't figure out where it goes. Anybody?
Post by: Rick G on July 26, 2012, 09:11:52 PM
Post by: TimTyler on July 26, 2012, 09:34:44 PM
... it goes on the foremost one...
Thanks, Rick!
Post by: maverick42190 on July 26, 2012, 11:07:14 PM
Post by: frankenduck on July 27, 2012, 02:43:29 AM
Throttle cable went bad on a local ride this morning. Super slow response so I hobbled home and drove the truckster to get a new cable from the dealer.
Routing the new cable wasn't as difficult as I expected.
When I took apart the throttle grip and removed the front master cylinder, this electrical connection (attached image) popped off when I wasn't looking and now I can't figure out where it goes. Anybody?
It';s a ground wire for the master cylinder assembly. As far as I can tell its serves no real functional purpose. Disconnect it at the other end and throw it away,
Post by: Opus on July 27, 2012, 09:16:05 AM
Tonight, I added 3 LED light strips as brake lights on the back of my K. I found a bin of them for 5 bucks each at my local electronics store. The tragkorbs are still removable, I just added a small plug in line. No red flag from the bulb monitoring unit so it looks like everything turned out fine. They are VERY bright. I have two amber strips for the front forks as well.
Looks good. Did almost same thing to my K100. Wired 2 red leds to brake light and 2 yellow led strips to my tail light. Then put 1 yellow leds on each side of the faring. Love using led because of low power demaneds and are bright enough to be seen during the day. I saw a posting showing how put an led strip into the side reflectors on the forks. I think that will be my next led project.
Opus!
Post by: Inge K. on July 27, 2012, 05:56:48 PM
It';s a ground wire for the master cylinder assembly. As far as I can tell its serves no real functional purpose. Disconnect it at the other end and throw it away,
Document. (https://www.bmwmc.net/catalog/02.pdf)
Inge K.
Post by: frankenduck on July 27, 2012, 06:05:27 PM
It';s a ground wire for the master cylinder assembly. As far as I can tell its serves no real functional purpose. Disconnect it at the other end and throw it away,
Document. (https://www.bmwmc.net/catalog/02.pdf)
Inge K.
Interesting. I didn't bother putting one on my K75 with a K1100 front end. I guess I'll install one the next time I have the tank off.
Post by: Inge K. on July 27, 2012, 06:42:10 PM
Interesting. I didn't bother putting one on my K75 with a K1100 front end. I guess I'll install one the next time I have the tank off.
A recent example (http://www.bmbikes.org.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16174) that this switch is a problem, and the ground wire is needed.
Inge K.
Post by: BobZ(IL) on July 27, 2012, 10:52:52 PM
Post by: Rick G on July 28, 2012, 12:27:55 AM
Replaced rear brake pads but it didn't go quite as easily as the manual described the job.
It rarely does
Post by: BillyMac on July 28, 2012, 02:39:44 PM
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8157/img1397.png)
Post by: DRxBMW on July 28, 2012, 02:53:41 PM
Noticed a couple items that were pretty faded and scratched up so I tried out some Blak Renew Protect (http://renewprotect.com/blak/) for a quick solution until I can replace or paint them. Just a first coat but seems to have done a pretty good job. Says to do at least 2. Worked even better on my low seat rubber tank shroud(was really faded) and gas cap but didn't get shots of them.
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8157/img1397.png)
Urethane shoe polish ?
Post by: racinrich on July 28, 2012, 05:07:52 PM
Post by: mystic red on July 28, 2012, 05:54:30 PM
Quote
used a bmw sunroof motor from e39 model 88 89ish, $20.last guy just threw motor out when system quit.connector is exact fit and pinout.
Good find! Could you post a little more detailed report on that motor here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1563.0.html), please?
Post by: Inge K. on July 28, 2012, 07:39:54 PM
Inge K.
Post by: racinrich on July 29, 2012, 10:22:59 AM
Post by: racinrich on July 29, 2012, 10:27:53 AM
Post by: Inge K. on July 29, 2012, 11:15:31 AM
E34 estate have a double sunroof, and other motors.
Inge K.
Post by: TimTyler on August 03, 2012, 11:42:55 PM
Hey, that wasn't so hard. Should have done it when I got the bike last year, 10k miles ago.
Here's what I found (after a little cleaning, but there really was not much lube in there unfortunately.)
How bad is it?
Post by: Rick G on August 04, 2012, 12:08:43 AM
It is probably one hard start away from a complete failure.
Post by: argent brick on August 04, 2012, 01:27:15 AM
Total retail just over 9 dollars including fees to Gov. Moonbeam.
Cost more to ship here that to mfg. the parts.
51252308126 protective hose (2ea.)
51252308123 clamp - No wait, that would be "klemme", it had to be shipped from the Fatherland.
Post by: billday on August 04, 2012, 09:40:09 AM
Riding to Vermont next week!
Post by: Chaos on August 04, 2012, 10:02:04 PM
Post by: racinrich on August 05, 2012, 07:41:02 PM
Post by: tsbt on August 07, 2012, 11:02:42 AM
Post by: racinrich on August 07, 2012, 09:08:27 PM
Post by: Opus on August 08, 2012, 09:57:01 PM
Guess it's back to Diagnostics Mode tomorrow. :confused:
Did get a water proof Battry Tender. Now to hook it up. :2thumbup:
Post by: Reopropf on August 08, 2012, 10:40:02 PM
Hello, I'm new here, Peter is my name, and I appreciate all of the information I have been able to learn.
I'm not new to BMW or the K.
When I returned to cycling years ago, I got an 1995 R100Mystic, moved into an 1150RT and then into the earliest KGT, a GREAT machine. Sold ALL to move into MV Agusta first with an F4 AGO, and now have a 2005 Tamburini with 13K, a BEAST.
Restored an R65LS a few years back, and then gave it to a friend who needed a smaller ride due to his age of 80. It will return to me someday, a beauty. Then bought a '75 R90S in beautiful condition and softly updated it to a fine running classic. Then, 3 weeks ago I rode my friends K75S and IMMEDIATELY, had to get one. I also abandoned my idea of getting a new Multistrada 1200 Pikes Peak as unnecessary.
I searched every site and available K75 or K100 in the US. And then one found me...
A 1991 K75S marrakesh red, excellent condition with ONLY 8550 miles. Got it last evening, detailed it thru the night, and will now start routine maintenance including filters, fluids, sparks, tune and whatever else is needed.
Here is a picture BEFORE I started.
Will update asap.
Peter
Post by: argent brick on August 08, 2012, 11:04:40 PM
Now that you own a "S", you can call yourself a "Brickhead". We will.
Here you will find most of what you are looking in the way of K bike info. I would suggest that you start with the "Lieberry". In there you will find a section for new brick owners. You will also find one member named "Frankenduck" can be an extreme help. Just don't talk to him about R series bikes.Boxers. He thinks a Boxer is a type of underwear:)
Post by: racinrich on August 10, 2012, 10:57:14 PM
Post by: Opus on August 11, 2012, 11:29:24 AM
Guess not going to ride until new Panel(er) gets here sometime next week. :blackcloud:
It was a great day for a ride to! :swear:
Post by: Scott_ on August 11, 2012, 01:35:22 PM
Went for a ride. Speedometer not working at all now! :bang-head:This probably isn't the thread for this but, is your turn signal auto cancel working?
Guess not going to ride until new Panel(er) gets here sometime next week. :blackcloud:
It was a great day for a ride to! :swear:
Post by: Opus on August 11, 2012, 02:18:05 PM
Yes they work. It is an ongoing issue with the Panel that I started not long ago in another post.
Was just having fun at my own expense LOL.
Post by: tsbt on August 11, 2012, 03:43:58 PM
He also had a Honda parked out front the owner went from England to the southern tip of Africa and back then parked it in a shed and never had it out since, want's Ted to get it running again. Great story. Wish I was a fly on that bike. Incredible journey I'm sure.
Post by: TimTyler on August 11, 2012, 04:31:29 PM
Now I just need to put it all back together :(
Post by: mystic red on August 11, 2012, 06:45:16 PM
I did this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2958.0.html) after a OCD wash and wax.
It's like an effen mirror.
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/Plast-aid/P1010580.jpg)
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/Plast-aid/P1010581.jpg)
Post by: Reopropf on August 11, 2012, 07:58:58 PM
Got insurance & registered bike with state/got tags.
Changed oil/filter, changed brake fluid front/rear, lubed spline and drive shaft (really needed it), adjusted tight clutch, replaced vent hose, mounted rear rack, detailed and touched up paint, checked electricals.
State inspection.
Going to run in a tank with additive tomorrow.
Peter
Post by: leecow on August 11, 2012, 11:10:44 PM
Post by: Opus on August 12, 2012, 12:53:33 AM
Newbie update: (4 days)
Peter
Greeting Peter!
Welcome to the club.
Post by: Chaos on August 14, 2012, 10:13:21 PM
Post by: Opus on August 14, 2012, 10:59:18 PM
Everything working! (Well almost :dunno2:)
@Chaos: I hate that when it happens! :giggles
Post by: argent brick on August 15, 2012, 01:44:06 AM
Post by: Opus on August 15, 2012, 07:27:08 AM
Opus, What is not working?
Long story short?
GPI on Speedo would not show correct gears. Then Odometer/Trip Meter stopped working.
See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2796.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2796.0.html) for details
Got Speedo off Fleabay and replaced the old one. Now back at GPI problem. Looks like a wire or switch problem now.
I'm putting the problem on hold until I put the bike up for winter.
Thanks for asking & have a great day..
Post by: Chaos on August 15, 2012, 11:49:33 AM
GPI on Speedo would not show correct gears. Then Odometer/Trip Meter stopped working.
Okay, I give. What the hell is the GPI in the speedo? Don't think it's any of these :giggles
GPI Global Peace Index
GPI Genuine Progress Indicator
GPI Glycosyl Phosphatidylinositol
GPI Glucose-6-Phosphate Isomerase
GPI Glass Packaging Institute
GPI General Purpose Interface
GPI General Purpose Input
GPI Greenpeace International
GPI Glycophosphatidylinositol
GPI Globus Pallidus Internus
GPI Girls' Power Initiative (Nigeria)
GPI Grains Per Inch (arrow construction)
GPI Green Press Initiative
GPI General Paralysis of the Insane
GPI GOES Precipitation Index
GPI Generic Product Identifier
GPI General Pay Increase
GPI Great Plains Industries, Inc (Wichita, Kansas)
GPI Gas Puff Imaging
GPI General Printing Ink
GPI Ground Position Indicator
GPI Glide Path Indicator (helipad lighting system)
GPI Generalized Policy Iteration
GPI Ground Point of Intercept
GPI Global Precipitation Index
GPI Gruppo Partecipazioni Industriali (Italian joint stock company)
GPI Groupement de Promotion Intégrale (French)
GPI Graphical Programming Interface
GPI Global Partners Inc (Philippines)
GPI Government Preliminary Inspection
GPI Ground Point Intercept
GPI Gallons Per Inch
GPI Generic Protocol Interface
GPI General Programming Interface (computer programming)
GPI Guidance Performance Indicator (web metrics)
GPI Global Patent Information
GPI Gerakan Pramuka Indonesia (Indonesian Scout Movement)
GPI Global Positioning Instrument (aka GPS)
GPI Global Procurement Information
GPI Group Priority Inversion
GPI Guide des Procédures de d’Immigration (Canada)
GPI Group Presence Indicator
GPI Gasket & Packings, Inc. (Borger, Texas)
GPI Kalispell, Montana, USA - Glacier Park International Airport
GPI Government Provided Information
GPI Gordon Point Informatics Ltd. (Canada)
GPI Global Policy Institute (London, UK)
Post by: sh00ter on August 15, 2012, 11:56:10 AM
Post by: Opus on August 15, 2012, 12:37:36 PM
Right sh00ter?
Post by: sh00ter on August 15, 2012, 02:29:11 PM
Post by: Chaos on August 15, 2012, 07:00:06 PM
Post by: Rick G on August 15, 2012, 09:06:52 PM
Post by: argent brick on August 16, 2012, 02:20:56 AM
I had to pay the DMV for my tags today. My bike is a '95 and it cost me 97 bucks for a little sticker the state feels that I need to have on my rear plate. What a rip off. If I may ask, about how much do you guys pay in other areas than California?
Post by: Rick G on August 16, 2012, 02:52:34 AM
Post by: Chaos on August 16, 2012, 09:45:43 AM
Post by: vesku on August 18, 2012, 08:14:30 AM
I only pay about 300 euros (abt 350 bucks) of insurance every year. We have a nice system which favors older, less powerful bikes. The insurance covers damage caused to others, own injuries, damage caused to the bike because of fire, theft or reindeer (true, and a serious threat here in these parts;)) Mine is an '85 K100RS.
Post by: argent brick on August 19, 2012, 11:51:24 PM
Is that $450 a year just for the one bike? If so, I don't feel as bad about my 97 bucks. The 40 a year that Chaos pays is more to my taste.
In answer to the question posted by Vesku, it is not an inspection sticker and it not just tax. According to the state of California,
only about 16 dollars is a tax. The rest of it are things like fees to the local government, money for the police agencies, and fees that cover programs that the tree huggers have pushed to have passed into state law. My favorite is the "administration fees" part.
The state goes out of their way to tell us that they only get a very small part of the money.
To me, it is all taxes.
Post by: TimTyler on August 20, 2012, 12:45:07 AM
... things like fees to the local government, money for the police agencies, and fees that cover programs that the tree huggers have pushed to have passed into state law.
According to http://www.dmv.ca.gov/faq/faq_vlf.htm (http://www.dmv.ca.gov/faq/faq_vlf.htm)
"The DMV returns almost all vehicle license fee revenue to the cities and counties.
For more details on how your VLF money is used,
contact your local city or county government officials."
I don't see anything about "tree hugger state laws", and I don't have a problem kicking a few bucks a year to the government services that benefit my neighborhood.
Post by: argent brick on August 20, 2012, 02:25:30 AM
I do not have a problem with giving them a few bucks, but I do have a problem when they are spent on programs that are not needed or the funds are not used wisely. For example, the county I live in has smog laws designed for areas with a much greater population and higher pollution levels. It was optional for our area but was still put on the books. The state gives the county zero dollars in funding and yet we have to comply with the law. Local residents have to foot the bill.
Environmental laws and programs that are passed at state level is what I classify as "tree hugger laws". Our automobile smog laws are one example. Another is the corn/gasoline blended fuel that has been stuffed down our throat.
Maybe that is unfair of me to group all environmental laws together. I know many of them do what they are designed to do, but many do not. Some are very poorly written and should be rewritten or removed. Others should never been placed on the books.
My experience is that few laws end up working as planned.
"The DMV returns almost all vehicle license fee revenue to the cities and counties.
For more details on how your VLF money is used,
contact your local city or county government officials."
Let's call them what they really are: TAXES. You can call them fees and surcharges all you want, but they are taxes. Let the county collect it's own taxes and save one level of bureaucracy. Considering that my state is broke, I do not want them handling local funds anymore than needed. They can't even come up with a real balanced budget. The DMV knows how they distribute the funds. They should tell us and not pass the buck by putting it on our shoulders to find out.
Post by: TimTyler on August 22, 2012, 02:38:13 PM
Replacing Metzeler Lasertecs with Bridgestone Spitfire S11's.
Post by: doctorchad on August 24, 2012, 06:55:43 PM
Is there "K" god I can sacrifice something to?
Post by: Scott_ on August 25, 2012, 09:58:19 AM
True, but look how many three letter acronyms he made up:)
If I may ask, about how much do you guys pay in other areas than California?
Here in Iowa, $10 for each of my bikes, and $65 for my "K"2500 Chevy pickup.(it's grandfathered in at the lower rate).
Post by: argent brick on August 25, 2012, 02:20:55 PM
True, but look how many three letter acronyms he made up:)
If I may ask, about how much do you guys pay in other areas than California?
Here in Iowa, $10 for each of my bikes, and $65 for my "K"2500 Chevy pickup.(it's grandfathered in at the lower rate).
10 DOLLARS A YEAR?
Man, I am living in the wrong state.
Post by: frankenduck on August 25, 2012, 02:37:18 PM
Post by: Snowy on August 25, 2012, 03:38:17 PM
Post by: sh00ter on August 25, 2012, 07:53:11 PM
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7860284634_f16cbde14b.jpg)
Post by: Quaddawg on August 26, 2012, 10:05:58 AM
I'll probably re-do it, and change it up, but this was a quicky for fun.
(http://www.stanfordmotorsports.com/coilcover.jpg)
Post by: Opus on August 26, 2012, 10:11:05 AM
Hoping it will cure my heat problem on my left leg. :2thumbup:
With all the work I have done on this thing, I'm begining to think I have a HOG not a BMW. :confused:
Spend more time repairing than riding. :hehehe
Post by: sh00ter on August 28, 2012, 12:22:33 AM
Post by: orforester on August 28, 2012, 10:19:57 PM
Post by: Scott_ on August 28, 2012, 11:04:46 PM
Johnny, I think you get more miles on a tow truck than anyone I have seen, you must have the Motobrick special on towing rates! LOL :hehehe
Naw, that's his work truck.
Post by: Scott_ on August 28, 2012, 11:15:44 PM
They must have been some real cheapo material that couldn't take the heat.
My indication something was wrong was that my idle speed has been slowly increasing since April. Up about 100-150 rpm from when I set it.
I also rechecked my TB balance while I had the caps off...............
Post by: leecow on August 29, 2012, 08:02:03 PM
Post by: WoahGold on August 29, 2012, 08:33:17 PM
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0723.jpg)
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0722.jpg)
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0721.jpg)
One of the old injectors
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0736.jpg)
The new ones on the rail
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0739.jpg)
I also got an 85' gauge cluster on ebay. I'm going to pull the parts from it and transplant them into mine.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/DSC_0732.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on August 31, 2012, 01:03:32 AM
Post by: Opus on August 31, 2012, 06:51:53 AM
It was raining on and off keeping the temps cool and skeeters down.
Did a oil & filter change. Gaped and installed new spark plugs.
Set the SP Gap @ .026. Started up and sounds great. No missing at all!!!
Will do Trans & Rear gear oil change this morning if not too wet under the carport.
BTW: I see how to do the Trans Oil change, but need to know if I can remove the right peg support with out problems to get a clear view?
Post by: frankenduck on August 31, 2012, 10:03:13 AM
Post by: Scott_ on August 31, 2012, 06:01:39 PM
Looks like one of them has a Fuel + unit in it. Is that the one you found on ebay?
Looking at the pics of the bike with the cluster mounted, the F+ cluster one is the one on the bike.
Post by: WayneDW on August 31, 2012, 07:56:37 PM
Looks like one of them has a Fuel + unit in it. Is that the one you found on ebay?
Looking at the pics of the bike with the cluster mounted, the F+ cluster one is the one on the bike.
Please educate me. What are you guys talking about? What's a Fuel + unit?
Post by: frankenduck on August 31, 2012, 08:25:50 PM
Post by: TimTyler on August 31, 2012, 09:34:00 PM
To embarrassed to say why I had to do it. Okay, here's the deal.
Mostly I knew that I hadn't fully torqued the clutch nut to 140nm the first time around when I installed a new rear main seal a few weeks ago. Probably only got to 90nm because I was in a hurry, distracted, alone with nobody to hold the bike in place, whatever. I've done 300 miles since the low-torqued nut was installed without issue, but I don'it like surprises, especially far from home.
I was also reading some thread where a guy pulled his clutch and found that the rivets on the clutch housing were rubbing his newly installed main seal (raised .5mm) and made a melted metal mess. I did not remove my one month old clutch nut (would have had to buy a new one) but I made a laminated paper feeler and ran it behind the housing where it cleared the rivets. I'll sleep better now.
On the upside, the seal and lube a few weeks ago took me three days, while today's service was under six hours.
Post by: frankenduck on August 31, 2012, 09:55:40 PM
Post by: Rick G on August 31, 2012, 10:12:25 PM
BMW as do other manufacturers go a bit overboard with this replace every nut or bolt caper to protect themselves and not the bike.
Post by: frankenduck on August 31, 2012, 10:29:54 PM
Not to mention the profit margin on selling nuts for $10 a pop. :laugh
Post by: Opus on September 01, 2012, 12:33:03 AM
Trans oil looked in good shape but the rear end oil was almost black. Looks like it was not changed in a very long time.
Duck: Did the foil trick. Worked great. Thanks.
Took it for a quick spin between showers and it is running alot better after replacing the old plugs.
Now if this rain would only clear out!
Post by: argent brick on September 01, 2012, 09:39:16 PM
I broke my front right turn signal. Does that count for anything?
Post by: frankenduck on September 01, 2012, 10:21:37 PM
What did I do to my Motobrick today?
I broke my front right turn signal. Does that count for anything?
I could ban you for a week if you think that would help. :tongue
Post by: tsbt on September 01, 2012, 10:41:05 PM
What did I do to my Motobrick today?
I broke my front right turn signal. Does that count for anything?
Balls!!! Oh well guess you'll have to get a shiny new one.
I rode my brick hard hard hard today, trying to see if I could break it. No such luck. 5-6krpms steadily. Thing is built like a brick ch!t house!!!
Post by: argent brick on September 01, 2012, 10:57:17 PM
What did I do to my Motobrick today?
I broke my front right turn signal. Does that count for anything?
I could ban you for a week if you think that would help. :tongue
My wife would like that. She feels that I spend way to much time on line.
BTW, Duck, do you have a front right turn signal available?
Post by: hartrepair on September 03, 2012, 06:25:31 PM
I have been messing with a way to keep the fuel rail cool using air from the NACA scoop on the L/H side of the cowling ('95 K1100RS) I'd like to post pictures but haven't figured that out yet.
Post by: WayneDW on September 03, 2012, 07:14:51 PM
Hey all, I'm fresh to this forum.Welcome R C.
I have been messing with a way to keep the fuel rail cool using air from the NACA scoop on the L/H side of the cowling ('95 K1100RS) I'd like to post pictures but haven't figured that out yet.
You need to upload your picture to a photo hosting site like Photobucket.com. Then you will be able to copy and paste the link for the picture here. Just click the "Insert Image" icon when you are posting a reply, then paste it in.
Post by: hartrepair on September 03, 2012, 07:57:58 PM
Post by: TimTyler on September 03, 2012, 10:30:07 PM
Heading across the country on Wednesday.
Post by: WoahGold on September 04, 2012, 07:30:42 AM
Looks like one of them has a Fuel + unit in it. Is that the one you found on ebay?The previous owner replaced the cover with one from an '87 becuase the old one had a crack in the glass.
The bike is back together now. The new injectors are AMAZING, at 3,000+ revs it's like a tidal wave (not bad below 3,000 either :laugh). Still waiting on my CarbTune to sync the bodies, but it's running pretty smooth anyway.
Post by: argent brick on September 04, 2012, 08:51:14 AM
Added a water bottle holder to left rear system case today. I've got a tiny bungee somewhere to help keep the bottle seated.
Heading across the country on Wednesday.
I have been wanting to mount a water bottle on my brick too. Just have not been able to find a location that I am happy with. I am thinking about the forward part of the right hard case. up close to the frame. Problem is that I want to be able to use it if I am not running with the cases on the bike.
Post by: hartrepair on September 04, 2012, 09:07:00 AM
Post by: TimTyler on September 04, 2012, 10:26:01 AM
I am thinking about the forward part of the right hard case.
I had one there a few months ago. Removed it after bumping it too many times while getting on the bike.
Post by: WoahGold on September 04, 2012, 11:10:22 AM
Are the injectors from eBay too?
Yes, they're from OSideTiger.
Post by: mystic red on September 04, 2012, 01:53:51 PM
Added a water bottle holder to left rear system case today. I've got a tiny bungee somewhere to help keep the bottle seated.
Heading across the country on Wednesday.
I have been wanting to mount a water bottle on my brick too. Just have not been able to find a location that I am happy with. I am thinking about the forward part of the right hard case. up close to the frame. Problem is that I want to be able to use it if I am not running with the cases on the bike.
I just put a bladder in my tank bag and run the hose out.....
Post by: argent brick on September 04, 2012, 02:48:13 PM
"I had one there a few months ago. Removed it after bumping it too many times while getting on the bike."
"I just put a bladder in my tank bag and run the hose out....."
Yeah, I am concerned about bumping the bottle if I put one there and I can't run one out of my tank bag because I do not own a tank bag:(
Post by: BexarWolf on September 04, 2012, 11:02:10 PM
Post by: argent brick on September 05, 2012, 12:00:53 AM
Post by: sh00ter on September 06, 2012, 09:04:33 AM
The old one was cupping and down to the TWI in many places
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8182/7910145612_8086c0344b.jpg)
Used ride-on sludge
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8031/7910144328_60bbc6ea0c.jpg)
naked rim
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8316/7910142566_3e95edef3b.jpg)
just after the bead popped
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8169/7910141120_566dc702d5.jpg)
finished product
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8037/7910136126_6b2eb04aa6.jpg)
Post by: mac on September 06, 2012, 10:58:34 AM
New shock makes a world of difference. :2thumbup: Now i just need to make the time to do a fork service and install the new Progressive Suspension fork springs. Underdamping on the front end is suddenly obvious with the nice new rear end.
Post by: Chaos on September 06, 2012, 05:42:59 PM
Noticed throttle is pretty sticky. Hard to say from where though,
Mine got so sticky I was obliged to find the problem, pulled the grip off and there was a 25yr build up of glop on the bar. Cleaned it all up and good as new.
Post by: hartrepair on September 06, 2012, 08:31:31 PM
Post by: hartrepair on September 06, 2012, 08:40:14 PM
Post by: Gubro30 on September 06, 2012, 09:48:23 PM
Here in Quebec I'm paying 546$ CAD (FIVE HUNDRED FIFTY GODDAMN SIX) dollars PER YEAR for title, registration, and our public insurance system.
The bike's a 86 K75C.
A "sport" bike is 1100$.
On top of that I have to insure it privately for the thing itself and personal liability.
Stop whining ;)
Post by: Rick G on September 06, 2012, 11:03:18 PM
If we have a solo seat the insurance part is about half so that makes the overall cost about two thirds of a dual seat.
Post by: 2000rsv on September 10, 2012, 09:57:07 AM
Changed oil/filter, transmission fluid, and final drive fluid. Best thing I did was change out the front brake fluid. It was nasty. The rubber expansion gasket in the MC was toast also. Dealer had one in stock. All back together and working well.
Also installed a Reynolds rack. Took a while to figure out how it installed, but all is good. Very solid. I will shortly be putting the 22L tank box in the classifieds.
J
Post by: Chaos on September 13, 2012, 11:22:29 PM
Post by: Brickhead on September 14, 2012, 05:26:55 AM
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/moondog07/Ducati004.jpg)
Post by: mjydrafter on September 17, 2012, 08:13:57 AM
The Honda 60 is good stuff, but the GD made my shifts incredibly smooth both up and down.
I don't know how bad the breather hose was but it seemed smoother and the old hose showed some cracking/oil seepage. :dunno if it helped, but it did need to be replaced.
Next I need to concentrate on the brake lines and pads, along with a R&R on the calipers. I'm thinking of bypassing the triple tree brake tube and running two new SS lines down to each caliper from a longer banjo at the master. Any one done this? Any pro's or con's? Did you switch to banjo fittings at the calipers or just get the new lines with fittings that match the old stuff?
Post by: frankenduck on September 17, 2012, 09:41:25 AM
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/q/m/10.png)
The metal line is part 34322312691
(http://sumdumguy.home.comcast.net/~sumdumguy/k75sp/k75sp_right.jpg)
Post by: mjydrafter on September 17, 2012, 01:16:06 PM
Does the hose connect/replace the bleeder on the right caliper? Then you bleed the system with the bleeder on the left?
The banjo bolts are a 10mm, but what thread pitch? Are the bleeder threads the same?
Post by: CRASH on September 17, 2012, 01:43:05 PM
Does that metal line make changing the front tire any different? I like that idea a lot myself, but have to remove the calipers to change the front tire on my new fangled, last of the flying motobricks GT and the rigid line would be a pain in the ass.
Post by: Inge K. on September 17, 2012, 02:39:22 PM
The banjo bolts are a 10mm, but what thread pitch? Are the bleeder threads the same?
Both is M10x1,0.
Post by: mjydrafter on September 17, 2012, 03:55:34 PM
The banjo bolts are a 10mm, but what thread pitch? Are the bleeder threads the same?
Both is M10x1,0.
Thanks Inge!
Post by: billday on September 18, 2012, 08:26:30 AM
The metal line is part 34322312691
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Wow, I like this. Max's fiche says this is for K75 only, is there any reason it couldn't be used on an '85 K100?
Thanks as always, Duck.
Post by: frankenduck on September 18, 2012, 08:44:21 AM
Post by: frankenduck on September 18, 2012, 09:04:27 AM
So you run the hose from the MC to the caliper, then the cross over from caliper to caliper with the hard line.
Does the hose connect/replace the bleeder on the right caliper? Then you bleed the system with the bleeder on the left?
Yes.
Post by: frankenduck on September 18, 2012, 09:05:59 AM
Duck,
Does that metal line make changing the front tire any different? I like that idea a lot myself, but have to remove the calipers to change the front tire on my new fangled, last of the flying motobricks GT and the rigid line would be a pain in the ass.
You unbolt the calipers and then just pull them apart a little to change the wheel. No need to disassemble the brake lines.
Post by: roninvt on September 20, 2012, 12:04:47 AM
Post by: tsbt on September 20, 2012, 11:40:38 AM
Post by: CRASH on September 24, 2012, 04:02:27 PM
A long and fun weekend. Los Gatos, CA to Albuquerque, New Mexico and back in 33 hours (2111 miles) for a Saddlesore Gold certificate and picked up a Bun Burner Gold with 1590 miles in 23 hours. Don't ask why I did it, or will probably do it again, I don't know ... I could say "if I have to explain it, you wouldn't understand" except I don't understand it myself.
Entered Arizona with a 117 F temperature at 2 PM Saturday and came back out about 12 hours later with the same area at about 40 F. Pretty un-eventful run except for receipts that didn't want to print or print with less that desired information. I also learned losing a lot of weight changes how comfy a custom fit seat is. I think I may have to have it reworked some.
(http://i.imgur.com/N0wC4.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on September 25, 2012, 01:02:20 AM
Post by: Snowy on September 25, 2012, 02:54:38 AM
Post by: CRASH on September 25, 2012, 09:59:36 AM
where did you get highway sign stickers that are on your side case?
Gift shops and stores along those highways.
Post by: argent brick on September 25, 2012, 10:56:49 AM
Post by: bmw-rider on September 26, 2012, 04:58:04 AM
You can find them here also http://www.cafepress.com/+highway+bumper-stickers (http://www.cafepress.com/+highway+bumper-stickers)
Dick
Post by: tsbt on September 29, 2012, 10:23:03 PM
Tomorrow morning I leave for Walden, might flip a coin so see whether I take the east route or the west :bmwsmile
Post by: BexarWolf on September 29, 2012, 10:30:06 PM
1) Install Parabellum windscreen
2) Install seat rest
3) Install some driving lights (either driving lights AND fog/conspicuity lights or just driving...still pondering)
4) Cheap dash thermometer
5) Silverstar headlight bulb
6) Eastern Beaver headlight harness
Post by: roninvt on September 30, 2012, 05:00:56 PM
1. lubed my final drive
2. replaced the final drive oil
3. oil change and filter
Post by: natsmada on October 02, 2012, 10:50:45 PM
Thanks.
Post by: frankenduck on October 02, 2012, 10:54:16 PM
Post by: natsmada on October 04, 2012, 11:37:09 PM
http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/P3_Features.shtml (http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/P3_Features.shtml)
The best conspicuity mod that I've done so far! :yow
Post by: Liverpool Brick on October 05, 2012, 06:18:35 AM
Post by: WoahGold on October 05, 2012, 11:15:24 AM
I then promtly went out and scartched the itch.
Post by: BexarWolf on October 05, 2012, 04:46:32 PM
Just ordered a set of the Skene Designs Photon Booster lights to mount up front and have a pair of 55w Walmart cheapies mocked up, trying to decide whether I want to mount them with a separate switch or wire them into the high-beam. :hmm:
Oh yeah, picked up a GoPro Naked a few weeks ago and playing with mounting options for that. Finally, I'll be able to show the wife just how much fun it is to drive in Austin traffic. :laugh
Post by: BexarWolf on October 05, 2012, 06:31:21 PM
(http://imageshack.us/a/img51/2175/parabelluminstalled.jpg)
This is sitting upright in my normal seating position.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img831/9823/parabellumuprightshaded.jpg)
And this is with just a little bend in the elbow.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img411/3901/parabellumcrouchedshade.jpg)
Post by: pallum on October 06, 2012, 02:59:57 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/Ssf5vl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rfO1Ql.jpg)
Finally took care of that today with a replacement
Post by: sh00ter on October 06, 2012, 11:47:24 PM
I installed the Audiovox cruise control on my '97 K1100LT this past week and it does NOT work! Is there anyone in the Minneapolis, MN that has done this mod SUCCESSFULLY and that I could pick their brain as to what I did not do correctly? For instance, I used the included control pad and there is a RED wire that I did not connect to anything.
Thanks.
I'm in the area, done it successfully. If you're stil having issues, PM me ... we can chat
Post by: WoahGold on October 12, 2012, 01:03:23 AM
-Did some touch up paintwork
-Cleaned and lubed the master cylinder piston (doesn't seem to be sticking anymore)
-Made sure it was ready for my trip this weekend
Post by: healthy on October 12, 2012, 05:01:57 PM
Post by: BexarWolf on October 13, 2012, 04:22:32 AM
Ordered Eastern Beaver headlight relay (with driving light cable)
Ordered a 100/135 watt headlight bulb
Have my Skene Industries Photon Booster and bracket on hand to install
Installed my passenger backrest and bracket
Have a pair of Walmart cheapo driving lights to install once I get the headlight relay wiring.
My poor baby is gonna be in pieces for a while so I can install all this stuff. :embarass:
Post by: Inge K. on October 13, 2012, 05:26:42 AM
Ordered Eastern Beaver headlight relay (with driving light cable)
Ordered a 100/135 watt headlight bulb
Since you going to use a high power bulb afterall, did you order the relay kit with a ceramic socket,
as I adviced in the other forum?
Inge K.
Post by: BexarWolf on October 13, 2012, 08:41:22 AM
Ordered Eastern Beaver headlight relay (with driving light cable)
Ordered a 100/135 watt headlight bulb
Since you going to use a high power bulb afterall, did you order the relay kit with a ceramic socket,
as I adviced in the other forum?
Inge K.
DOH! No, got the regular one. After I ordered the bulb, I started questioning if I really wanted to go with something that high wattage or not. I ordered the relay and THEN ordered the bulb after seeing someone else here using it. I plan on having my driving lights wired in with the high beam so I'll probably stay with the Silver Star 55/60. I don't mind being seen on the road but I do a lot of commuting that inevitably ends up with me sitting behind someone at a red light. If the headlight was mounted to the forks where I could angle the light away from the rearview mirror, I'd consider it but working nights and planting a 100 watt bulb in someone's eyes is just an invitation to a meeting that I don't need.
The higher wattage bulb will most likely end up in my toolbox, gathering dust. :laugh
Post by: frankenduck on October 13, 2012, 09:39:28 AM
Post by: BexarWolf on October 13, 2012, 08:56:37 PM
Post by: frankenduck on October 13, 2012, 09:49:53 PM
My other bikes (including a couple I've sold) use Jim's heavy duty H4 sockets and my own relay setups and nary a problem there running high watt H4s either.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html)
Post by: mystic red on October 13, 2012, 10:39:03 PM
My LT has an EB kit and has been running a 100/90 for tens of thousands of miles.
My other bikes (including a couple I've sold) use Jim's heavy duty H4 sockets and my own relay setups and nary a problem there running high watt H4s either.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html)
+1
Post by: BexarWolf on October 14, 2012, 01:00:31 AM
Post by: frankenduck on October 14, 2012, 01:17:38 AM
And, since you're running a fused relay setup, the worst possible scenario is blowing a fuse.
Post by: BexarWolf on October 14, 2012, 01:56:02 AM
Post by: TimTyler on October 14, 2012, 07:28:17 PM
Removed the front wheel, forks, brakes, instruments, etc. When I tried to loosen the bearing nuts the entire top triple-tree unthreaded so just kept going. Since I was not replacing the bearings (just lubing them) I figured the measurements would be the same and there was no need to disassemble the adjustment nuts.
The lower triple-tree, bearings, and threaded tube slipped out easily. The lower bearing slipped off the tube without resistance so they were easy to clean and repack. Found a tiny rough spot on the top race but I'm going to leave it as is for now. After degreasing, the top bearings fell apart so I reassembled and stuck it all back together with fresh grease.
Put it all back together and tested with and without the fluidbloc resistance and it's smoother for sure.
Post by: Rick G on October 14, 2012, 08:18:42 PM
That's great news. :2thumbup: I'm looking forward to getting all these parts together and doing some wiring. I ain't afraid of the dark but I sure do like being able to see what's coming up. Most of my commute is toll roads and interstate but there are a couple of stretches where I've seen way too many deer either smushed on the side of the road or standing there staring at me as I go by. My work is in a wooded area and I watch them walking across the parking lot all the time. Cute little critters but I sure don't want to be caught by surprise at 75mph. At least I'll be able to see what they're thinking right before I plow into them. :hehehe
Deers don't think there is a prerequisite for that :loco: and like our kangaroos they often fall from the sky, :yow thats what I am told it's like as I have never had the missfortune to hit one myself.
Post by: BexarWolf on October 18, 2012, 05:35:17 AM
So, I took a hint from a thread on K11og.org and made a simple mount with a piece of flat stock from Lowe's. I'm taking a short trip this morning and will see how it performs.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img838/5531/gpsmount.jpg)
Post by: Brickhead on October 18, 2012, 07:25:06 AM
Post by: Rick G on October 18, 2012, 09:40:42 AM
Post by: frankenduck on October 18, 2012, 09:52:14 AM
I am going to some more research on removing the final drive, swing arm and drive shaft to get to the trany on my 1996 K1100RS. I have got to get into the trany to tighten up the gear shift lever linkage, AGAIN!!!! :confused: I had it apart this summer and snugged it up good WITH red Loctite and it is coming loose again. So instead taking the drive line off in one piece I am going to take it apart piece by piece. I have never had it apart so it will be to learn some thing new and check the drive shaft splines. Oh fun..... :loopy:
Here you go: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1615.0.html)
Post by: WoahGold on October 20, 2012, 06:18:37 PM
Day
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/B3B0D765-A559-4864-B4E0-283C2ED714A9-1842-000002BE981ED9F1.jpg)
Night no Flash
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/FBD8379C-8029-4864-AEC2-A7E1ED8C9DD8-1842-000002BE9F67422D.jpg)
Night with Flash (iPhone single LED)
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/EAB89312-AB35-4535-A8C3-74A11494856E-1842-000002BE9BCAA35F.jpg)
Post by: BexarWolf on October 21, 2012, 12:31:49 AM
Post by: TimTyler on October 21, 2012, 12:49:40 AM
(http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/008236/008236641455lg.jpg)
There is better stuff available (not from Lowes) but these are better than nothing.
Post by: argent brick on October 21, 2012, 02:03:51 AM
Post by: WoahGold on October 21, 2012, 12:36:12 PM
Where did you find that for $2?? I can't find a 12" strip of it anywhere for less than $9. :yow
Home Depot (or the Richmond store at least) has in 2' packages for $1.98. Same looking as above but with different packaging. It was hidden down behind the "For Sale" signs and mailbox numbers.
Post by: frankenduck on October 21, 2012, 01:22:45 PM
mailbox numbers.
Put a reflective 7 on the left bag and a reflective 5 on the right one.
K100: 1 left, o on fender, 0 right
Post by: BillyMac on October 21, 2012, 08:52:40 PM
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8330/8110888201_c95261c916_z.jpg)
Post by: billday on October 21, 2012, 09:14:15 PM
BTW, I'd be posting more but I got married on October 7 and so I've been busy with family life :) In case you're wondering, my new wife loves my brick and loves riding with me. Life is good!
Post by: Chaos on October 21, 2012, 09:45:45 PM
Where did you find that for $2?? I can't find a 12" strip of it anywhere for less than $9. :yow
After I painted my old brick I thought I ought to up the visibility a notch. Found this (JVCC REF-7 Engineering Grade Reflective Tape: 1 in. x 30 ft. (Yellow) on Amazon for about $12, used more on the back and for the lost reflectors on the forks, still got a bunch left. Holds up well and is reflective as all get out.
Post by: TimTyler on October 21, 2012, 09:49:15 PM
... Found this (JVCC REF-7 Engineering Grade Reflective Tape: 1 in. x 30 ft. (Yellow)...
Where's your airbox??
Post by: Chaos on October 21, 2012, 10:49:18 PM
Post by: TimTyler on October 21, 2012, 11:07:34 PM
.... I have a conical K&N filter on the back to the air meter housing...
Nice. I like it.
Post by: argent brick on October 22, 2012, 10:57:02 AM
BTW, I'd be posting more but I got married on October 7 and so I've been busy with family life :) In case you're wondering, my new wife loves my brick and loves riding with me. Life is good!
Why are you posting at all? Having a new bride at your side that supports your riding a brick is a good thing. Congratulations.
Post by: NickAndHisBrick on October 22, 2012, 10:30:44 PM
Pulled the rest of the broken overflow line off
walked away. lol
Post by: BexarWolf on October 26, 2012, 12:42:23 AM
I don't want my driving lights (to be installed at an undetermined spot at a later date) to be on with the low beam so I wired the Skene lights to be on with low and they cut off with high beam. I was truly impressed with the build quality of the EB harness and the speed with which I got it seeing as it came from Japan. :2thumbup:
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/1309/skenelights.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/217/skenelights.jpg/)
Post by: Red on October 26, 2012, 09:54:49 PM
Post by: TimTyler on October 26, 2012, 09:56:31 PM
Post by: Red on October 26, 2012, 09:59:21 PM
Post by: argent brick on October 26, 2012, 11:42:06 PM
Only $4.45 a gallon!
I would love to know where the "national average" gas is located.
I am so glad I own a Flying Brick.
Post by: WayneDW on October 27, 2012, 12:59:27 AM
I had to put fuel in my bike today.Gas has been dropping in price here in the upper midwest. I saw $3.27/gal today!
Only $4.45 a gallon!
I would love to know where the "national average" gas is located.
I am so glad I own a Flying Brick.
Post by: WoahGold on October 27, 2012, 02:26:04 AM
I also replaced the right bag mount (which had been held together with blaze orange duct tape). Much more secure now.
Post by: Chaos on October 28, 2012, 05:36:41 PM
Post by: TimTyler on October 28, 2012, 06:38:34 PM
Post by: argent brick on November 01, 2012, 12:55:12 PM
Now I need to find some black reflective tape for my front forks.
Post by: WayneDW on November 04, 2012, 07:29:13 PM
Now it's time to think about what winter projects I'll go after this year.
Post by: branandfox on November 05, 2012, 10:19:13 PM
New corbin seat
New rotors and brake pads,
all the neccessary flushes and refils,
new sparkplugs
as well as these new awsome blinkers for the front, Link below!
Hopefully get: new rims( Not the Y's I have on now)
get the rims coated,
start collecting pieces of a K1100 front fairing to put toward fully fairing my baby and repainting her orange and black.
A while back I had a misshap with a mirror falling off into traffic, so as I hated the original bulky mirrors I installed some suzuki Katana Sport mirrors on the upper fairing at the beginning of the windshield lip. Makes the bike appear much skinnier and much sportier! an instant hit. the only problem is now I need new blinkers.
360signals.net
They have 360 degree LED's mounted behind BMW roundels! the perfect thing for my unique project bike! if anyone is looking for something different and unique for there K, I suggest picking some up!
Post by: staffordworks on November 06, 2012, 03:35:55 PM
changed the oil (already in love)
topped off front brake fluid (need to do rear but funky wired on battery covers are hindering)
taped up shattered headlight lens (after the laid it down fun)
glued turn signal housing back to attachable
used a bulb off a 91 e300 benz tail light to replace turn bulb
used a screw off a broken seat hook to hold turn lens on (orig wiggled off on ride home from wreck)
unwired battery covers and went exploring, topped off coolant, found rear brake res but not able to get to it easily
NEED: left fork seal replacement, sounds very expensive wondering if fluid can be added in the mean time?
Post by: Duc750 on November 06, 2012, 04:23:57 PM
Post by: staffordworks on November 06, 2012, 04:36:47 PM
Post by: Duc750 on November 06, 2012, 04:50:45 PM
Post by: BexarWolf on November 06, 2012, 09:45:04 PM
I have an over-night trip departing tomorrow morning and need the extra storage and don't want to drop $300+ on just one bag so I'm going the 'cheap bastard' route for now. :2thumbup:
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4633/cortechleftnoflash.jpg)
(http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2152/cortechrightnoflash.jpg)
Post by: trophydan on November 09, 2012, 11:22:08 AM
Post by: staffordworks on November 19, 2012, 12:53:02 PM
Post by: jsb on November 19, 2012, 01:57:42 PM
Finally adjusted the clutch on the K75S, and now it feels great, shifting is much smoother. It was way out of adjustment. Funny, every bike I have gotten, the clutch has been way out of adjustment. Seems like no one ever does it right. Both of them are dead on BMW spec now. :2thumbup:
Post by: CRASH on November 19, 2012, 02:19:58 PM
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/207590_478981425479739_1117080883_n.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on November 21, 2012, 10:00:26 PM
Post by: argent brick on November 21, 2012, 11:50:23 PM
I made some custom length stainless buttonheads for mounting my K75 exhaust heat shield. :2thumbup:
Are the stock ones on my bike stainless or chrome?
Post by: frankenduck on November 22, 2012, 06:40:36 AM
However, BMW did make chrome heat shields and chrome mounting bolts. From the parts catalog it looks like the chrome heat shield only came on some of the naked K75s and the chrome bolts only came on nakeds and Cs.
Post by: argent brick on November 22, 2012, 11:25:22 AM
Post by: frankenduck on November 22, 2012, 11:56:08 AM
That answers my question, thanks. I have the chrome heat shield and bolts. I did not want any chrome on my bike, but it has grown on me. How common is the chrome stuff?
Not very from what I've seen.
Post by: WoahGold on November 22, 2012, 06:52:48 PM
1947 Farmall B
1961 Chevy Biscayne
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/WoahGold/5E69F2B4-C79C-4829-8961-3E61ECFFAC2A-10785-000008CE24021F25.jpg)
Post by: jsb on November 22, 2012, 08:36:26 PM
Winterized and put the brick into storage with my other two toys.
"Winterize"? What is this thing "winterize"? :confused: I was out walking in shorts and a tshirt today! Down here, I have to "summerize"! :yow
Seriously, was going to replace fuel hoses on the K75 today, but upon checking my beehives, I found that one colony had absconded. I spent the rest of the afternoon trying to figure out why. :dunno
Post by: billday on November 25, 2012, 09:39:21 AM
Got as far as pulling the injectors and fuel rail. The injectors sure need a scrubbing, look at the layer of corrosion on numbers 1 and 2. Now I'm hoping I didn't push any of that stuff into the intake tract when I stuffed rags into the injector openings.
I have a question for anyone who's done this operation on the '85 vintage machine. Clymer's says the entire air box needs to be removed: box, filter, air flow sensor, the works. Is that really necessary, or can I get away with just disconnecting the large elbow-shaped hose that connects the top air filter housing to the air accumulator box?
Cheers,
Bill
Post by: frankenduck on November 25, 2012, 10:58:44 AM
Post by: billday on November 25, 2012, 01:00:38 PM
Post by: frankenduck on November 25, 2012, 03:16:48 PM
And if you're pulling the TBs to redo the boots under them (worthwhile on an 85 IMO) then you probably don't need to mess with the airbox at all.
The key is how the screw for the hose clamp to the plenum is positioned. It may be necessary to pull the radiator to get to that if you can't get at it from above with as\ long screwdriver. I'd pull the radiator before messing with the airbox. But that's just my preference.
Post by: CRASH on November 28, 2012, 12:36:04 AM
• Replace Damaged Belly Pan
• Replace Damaged Side Panel (after color match painting)
• Replaced Damaged Oil Cooler Lines
• Replace Air Filter
• Super Oil change - it was totally drained this time since the oil lines and oil cooler were removed too.
• Reinstall Stock Exhaust (removed damaged Remus exhaust that moved my power band out of normal sport touring range and into track range)
• Stainless Steel Brake Lines and ABS Flush
• Flush Clutch System
• Wired up some new rear lights in turn signals and on fender
• Rebuild Rear Ohlins Shock - front Wilbers is fine since it was rebuilt recently under warranty for a bad seal.
• Good cleaning and scrubbing of grudge and road salts - still in process
• New RS mirrors so I can see more than my ultra Sexy Elbows.
• Replace seriously worn out 9 year old Autocom (the unit works, but all the wires have been flexed a bunch and are splitting) Due in Friday.
• Got a new Shoei Neotec Borealis Helmet
New tires will probably be in a couple of weeks, have about another 1,000 miles on these and my first weekend back on the road will solve that :D
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/485064_484489914928890_2013017568_n.jpg)
Post by: billday on November 28, 2012, 09:56:00 PM
The key is how the screw for the hose clamp to the plenum is positioned. It may be necessary to pull the radiator to get to that if you can't get at it from above with as\ long screwdriver. I'd pull the radiator before messing with the airbox. But that's just my preference.
I got the bottom half of the airbox out. The screws attaching it to the engine block were rusty but undoable.
As for the big hose from the airbox to the plenum, the screw on mine is at 12 o'clock, I loosened it with a tiny 7mm open-end wrench. But I ran out of time today before I could actually pull the throttle bodies. Yes I do plan to replace the rubber parts.
Thanks for the commentary, it's very helpful.
Post by: frankenduck on November 30, 2012, 10:21:24 AM
here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3466.0.html).
Post by: billday on December 01, 2012, 05:53:08 PM
PS Getting a big assist from this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.0.html) Thanks, Mystic Red.
Post by: Shoganai on December 03, 2012, 01:25:23 AM
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-m5vJNZZ/0/L/IMG_1099-L.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on December 03, 2012, 10:03:41 PM
Post by: tsbt on December 04, 2012, 09:18:50 PM
Done. Battery out, stabilizer in, fogged plug holes. Now I just need a good heater for inside the shed to get at those winter projects in sub zero temperatures.
Post by: argent brick on December 05, 2012, 12:57:53 PM
Post by: Shoganai on December 05, 2012, 01:10:09 PM
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-GKNSBHc/0/L/IMG_0997-L.jpg)
Post by: WoahGold on December 05, 2012, 01:18:56 PM
Post by: Shoganai on December 05, 2012, 03:05:36 PM
Since that pic, I exchanged the left lower switch to a Power-let.
Top Left - HID PIAA's
Top Right - CREE LED's
Middle Left - Internal tank bag LED
How many times have you wanted to see inside your tank bag at night, only to FIRST find a flashlight?
And don't even consider trying that at night at highway speeds.
And then you have to hold the flashlight...no more for me, I just flip the switch.
Middle Right - LED to shine on oil sight glass
Again, just flip a switch and look, easy peasy.
Middle Left - un-assigned
Shoganai, that's a pretty slick set up.
Post by: argent brick on December 06, 2012, 12:24:12 AM
Thank you.
Since that pic, I exchanged the left lower switch to a Power-let.
Top Left - HID PIAA's
Top Right - CREE LED's
Middle Left - Internal tank bag LED
How many times have you wanted to see inside your tank bag at night, only to FIRST find a flashlight?
And don't even consider trying that at night at highway speeds.
And then you have to hold the flashlight...no more for me, I just flip the switch.
Middle Right - LED to shine on oil sight glass.
What a cool idea! Almost makes me want to get a bike with a fairing.
Post by: mjydrafter on December 06, 2012, 07:49:00 AM
:k75s
Post by: frankenduck on December 06, 2012, 08:50:22 AM
And even with a fluidblock, a K75, under unique circumstances, can still do a tank slapper. It happened to me ONCE on my K75RT. :yow
Post by: mjydrafter on December 06, 2012, 10:00:40 AM
It feels like the bike is following a rain groove, at really odd times, when not on rain grooves. It gets really weird on rain grooves but being on rain grooves I'm kind of expecting it.
The bike does feel fine without the fluidbloc.
The brake overhaul did wonders for braking. Before the overhaul 1 of the calipers looked like it wasn't doing much (lots of brake pad left on both sides) and the other side one side was okay, and the other was just about completely gone :embarass:
I had put new brake fluid in back when I first got it, but I was amazed by the junk that was still in the calipers. Everything cleaned up real nicely, but there was quite a bit of water in the fluid in the calipers. I'm guessing that's why the one side didn't look like it was doing much, the water was compressing and the brake wasn't biting.
Post by: Shoganai on December 08, 2012, 02:29:35 AM
New gauges for the 1996 K1100RS are no longer available.
This works fine, but it looks bad.
So I made a lens for it.
This is the first time I've ever done anything like this.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-n8K5RfP/0/L/IMG_1162-L.jpg)
Pulled it apart.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-bPMVJd5/0/L/IMG_1163-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-5FVf3mT/0/L/IMG_1165-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-DbGFpjK/0/L/IMG_1166-L.jpg)
Got a free "drop" from Lowes.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-WSFKZ8h/0/L/IMG_1167-L.jpg)
I shaped it a dermal then 200 grit followed by 600 grit sandpaper.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-vmWb6vw/0/L/IMG_1169-L.jpg)
Put it back together.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-5VvqBvf/0/L/IMG_1170-L.jpg)
Because the "drop" was 1/16" thicker, it wouldn't close as tightly as I wanted, so I first ran a bead of gel-super glue around it, then nested in a this gasket, then ran another bead of gel-super glue.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-4Sv9255/0/L/IMG_1173-L.jpg)
All done.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Blue-Streak/i-L9PTwKR/0/L/IMG_1172-L.jpg)
.
Post by: BexarWolf on December 08, 2012, 08:25:45 AM
Post by: Rick G on December 08, 2012, 07:39:33 PM
Post by: tsbt on December 10, 2012, 09:59:42 AM
Count your blessings that you have a shed. I would love to have a place like that.
Thanks Lynn. The only downside is that I can't fit the K around the side of my semi-detached because it's 18" wide, so I bring it around the neighbors side open up the chain-link and ride on through. And if I do it quick nobody notices :yes
Post by: staffordworks on December 10, 2012, 10:03:33 AM
Post by: branandfox on December 22, 2012, 11:27:41 AM
Post by: CRASH on December 22, 2012, 01:37:24 PM
Stock pipe does bring the power band back to where it needs to be for a sport tourer, but is buzzier/causes more vibration than the Remus and does not sound as nice. I think I will be cutting the dent out of the Remus and getting it welded up. I need to check what the stock pipe does for the MPG which is critical in my IBA runs. That may trump the buzzyness.
Note: Even in servo operated iABS, steel braided brake lines are still one of the best brake upgrades for the buck.
Well, it is not all today, it has been on going since the asphalt chunk damage, but we are getting close. The guy I bought the side panel from is SLOW AS HELL shipping from Texas ... but it should be here Friday finally and I hope the shop can color match paint it next week. Rebuilt shock should be ready at Ted Porter's tomorrow so I can pick those up. The complete list:
• Replace Damaged Belly Pan
• Replace Damaged Side Panel (after color match painting)
• Replaced Damaged Oil Cooler Lines
• Replace Air Filter
• Super Oil change - it was totally drained this time since the oil lines and oil cooler were removed too.
• Reinstall Stock Exhaust (removed damaged Remus exhaust that moved my power band out of normal sport touring range and into track range)
• Stainless Steel Brake Lines and ABS Flush
• Flush Clutch System
• Wired up some new rear lights in turn signals and on fender
• Rebuild Rear Ohlins Shock - front Wilbers is fine since it was rebuilt recently under warranty for a bad seal.
• Good cleaning and scrubbing of grudge and road salts - still in process
• New RS mirrors so I can see more than my ultra Sexy Elbows.
• Replace seriously worn out 9 year old Autocom (the unit works, but all the wires have been flexed a bunch and are splitting) Due in Friday.
• Got a new Shoei Neotec Borealis Helmet
New tires will probably be in a couple of weeks, have about another 1,000 miles on these and my first weekend back on the road will solve that :D
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/485064_484489914928890_2013017568_n.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on December 23, 2012, 12:56:01 PM
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f_old/k75f_dash_relo_0.jpg)
The mount for the K1100 ignition switch was going to be in the way:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f_old/k75f_dash_relo_1.jpg)
So the first thing to do was to cut it off:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f_old/k75f_dash_relo_2.jpg)
And then I fashioned an adapter bracket out of right angle aluminum bar stock and mounted it on the lower handlebar clamp bolts and also modified the dash pad's mounting brackets to bolt up to it:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f_old/k75f_dash_relo_3.jpg)
Voila! Now the dash pad is up where it belongs:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j246/smithduck/k75f_old/k75f_dash_relo_4.jpg)
Post by: Howard64180 on December 24, 2012, 11:31:39 AM
I have read that the motor can be removed without moving the ABS2 unit, but I just couldn't get the space. So that'll be about the fourth time I've disconnected that now (two clutch rebuilds plus alternator monkey nuts) since July!
Post by: frankenduck on December 29, 2012, 06:29:16 PM
Took most of the fairing, the tank and the instrument cluster off:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/01_k75f_rm_apart.jpg)
Replaced all of the typically cracked fuel lines with generic FI line and insulated all of them.
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/03_cracked_fuel_line_2.jpg)
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/02_cracked_fuel_line_1.jpg)
Fabricated a bracket to move the square dash pad forward on the K1100 upper fork tree so the dash switches are easier to use with a tank bag on.
Before:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/04_k75f_dash_relo_0.jpg)
After:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/05_k75f_dash_relo_4.jpg)
While I had the switches off I backlit the ABS and hazard switches with LEDs:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/06_LED_backlit_switches.jpg)
Emptied/cleaned out the tank and installed a new fuel filter:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/07_K75F_fuel_fiter.jpg)
Changed the coolant and engine oil. What I had on hand was 50/50 coolant so I mixed it 4:1 with distilled water to get it to 40/60.
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/10_fluids.jpg)
The final drive and transmission gear oil with Guard Dog moly are "new" from when I swapped in the K1100 paralever rear end about 3,5000 miles ago so I just checked the levels on those.
Over the summer I tested a bunch of different H4 bulbs in an RS/RT/LT headlight assemblyand this one came out on top:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/09_K75f_13090_h4_headlight.jpg)
Since the high beam is 130W I figured that it wouldn't be a bad idea to swap in a ceramic H4 connector. (The bike already has headlight relays and beefy headlight wiring.)
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/08_k75f_ceramic_h4.jpg)
And then I fabricated and installed an LED to make checking the oil level easier:
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/k75f/k75f_1212_maint/k75f_oilled_6.jpg)
Post by: Olly on January 03, 2013, 12:34:48 PM
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/148958_10151416623425712_1666896213_n.jpg)
Yeah, that'll be the fault - typically, the fan has obviously got stiff, overheating and snapping the puny little plastic brush arms.
Looked to source a replacement, and could have mail ordered a used BMW fan assembly for £45, but I am a) cheap, and b) impatient. So I visited my friendly local independent motorbike shop, run by a proper old school bodger, and we scratched out chins together for a while. He disappeared off into one of his many back rooms, stuffed with bikes and bits, and returned with a VF400F fan assembly. Some quick measurements, and I reckoned I could bodge it on!
Needed a few cuts and bolts, but now it fits like factory! :lol:
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/6341_10151416720220712_1516078107_n.jpg)
And it works perfectly cool shades
Post by: Olly on January 04, 2013, 12:47:27 PM
Ordered a replacement set from a K100RS - only £10 :2thumbup:
I've also ordered a replacement front brake light switch.
Over the next few days while I'm waiting for these parts to arrive, I shall take the opportunity to clean / grease / lube the throttle assembly and throttle / clutch / choke cables, and repair the broken wiring to the heated grips. :laugh: I'm also trying to find a local paintshop who can do my left side panel and headlamp shroud for next to nothing...
Post by: frankenduck on January 04, 2013, 01:11:48 PM
Post by: Lawrence on January 04, 2013, 01:40:48 PM
Post by: Olly on January 04, 2013, 01:48:01 PM
Olly, I believe that BMW maintenance procedures recommend against lubrication of the control cables. been that way for ages....
Really?? Can't see what harm a little light oil down them could possibly do... :confused:
Post by: frankenduck on January 04, 2013, 01:53:44 PM
Olly, I believe that BMW maintenance procedures recommend against lubrication of the control cables. been that way for ages....
I was referring to the geared wheel that's used on the K75/100 throttle tube which does require lubrication.
You should also grease both ENDS of the clutch cable.
You're right about the cables though. :2thumbup: The cables all have a Teflon-ish lining and generally anything you put in there will cause that lining to degrade faster.
Post by: Freelancer on January 08, 2013, 05:30:07 AM
Later,
Freelancer
Post by: WayneDW on January 08, 2013, 11:26:05 PM
Post by: argent brick on January 09, 2013, 08:08:23 PM
Post by: Opus on January 14, 2013, 11:31:28 AM
Installed the GoPro App and now can control it from my Phone or Tablet.
Now all I need is some nice riding weather.
Post by: detbmw on January 14, 2013, 04:19:42 PM
I did learn one valuable lesson - I don't ever want to take the crankcase cover off again. First we had to drain the coolant, then take the fairing off of that side so we could find a place to pour the coolant back in later. When we took the coolant hose off (you know the one, it runs THROUGH the crankcase cover for some crazy reason) there was a piece of stringy rubber hanging out of the bottom of the thermostat housing. So we opened up the thermostat to find the other end of the rubber wrapped around the thermostat. It looked like a gasket had come loose from somewhere and had circulated around the cooling system and eventually got the end caught on the thermostat. Anyway, we pulled it out and eventually put everything back together. I'm keeping the long rubber stringy piece as a souvenir, maybe it will be my rally snake and ride with me.
Post by: frankenduck on January 14, 2013, 04:52:06 PM
you know the one, it runs THROUGH the crankcase cover for some crazy reason
Buy a K75RT. Problem solved.
Post by: detbmw on January 14, 2013, 05:51:50 PM
you know the one, it runs THROUGH the crankcase cover for some crazy reason
Buy a K75RT. Problem solved.
But I wanted a cool looking sport bike, I already have an RT (R1100 that is). I guess some engineer felt that the hose couldn't stick out in the air on the S. Or maybe a marketing guy told them to hide it.
Post by: frankenduck on January 14, 2013, 06:21:08 PM
Post by: CRASH on January 19, 2013, 01:23:13 AM
Post by: hartrepair on January 20, 2013, 06:14:55 PM
Post by: detbmw on January 20, 2013, 08:25:41 PM
I had to go inside to get a receipt, and the kid behind the counter (19 or 20 maybe) looks out at my 1988 K75S and he says, "Nice bike! Is that a Harley?"
I said, "No, it's a 25-year old BMW." That kinda killed his interest in my bike. He then continued on with his redneck, anti-Obama rant with the customer beside me.
Post by: pallum on January 21, 2013, 04:13:33 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/Zezbhegl.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on January 21, 2013, 05:46:25 PM
Deemed my Russell Daylong upgrade a complete success. Had it since November but have been having some discomfort until finding just the right riding position. Can't wait till the weather warms up and I can really put it through its paces.
(http://i.imgur.com/Zezbhegl.jpg)
Nice looking seat. Something like that seems to be a work of art. Way out of my price range.
Post by: Chaos on January 21, 2013, 08:03:43 PM
and he says, "Nice bike! Is that a Harley?"
I'm speechless :loco: I mean, unless you chrome plated all the aluminum and put ape hangers on it :lol:
Post by: argent brick on January 21, 2013, 09:48:50 PM
[/quote]
I'm speechless :loco: I mean, unless you chrome plated all the aluminum and put ape hangers on it :lol:
[/quote]
If you did that, then I would be speechless
Post by: frankenduck on January 25, 2013, 02:57:25 PM
1) Replaced the Hella FF50s with HID-ified Micro DEs.
2) Replaced the 20 year old fuel lines
3) Installed freshly reconditioned Bosch Series 2 injectors.
4) Rolled the back out the door so I wouldn't asphyxiate myself while synching the throttle bodies.
Enjoy the crappy cell phone pics. :dungee
Post by: argent brick on January 25, 2013, 07:40:18 PM
At least you get to have your bike close by in poor weather. Lucky stiff.
Post by: detbmw on January 25, 2013, 09:36:15 PM
My garage is too cold and cramped for projects of any magnitude in the winter. So I took my K1100RS up to the cabin, knocked the mirrors off and rolled her inside where I could have more room and a nice warm fire.
Took the bike inside to work on it, so, you are single.
Post by: argent brick on January 26, 2013, 03:25:47 PM
I do remember the joys of being single though.
Post by: WayneDW on January 27, 2013, 09:34:37 AM
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n237/waynedw/BMW%20pics/paintjob013.jpg)
Post by: WayneDW on January 27, 2013, 08:15:47 PM
Post by: JERRY on January 29, 2013, 05:06:56 PM
Post by: argent brick on January 29, 2013, 05:21:02 PM
I rode my `85 K100RS for the first time ever today. I bought it not running but that has changed. This thing is scary fast and smooth. The roads were wet at first so I was cautious. Then as the roads permited, I got less cautious and increased the rpm. The speedometer does not work, but my 40 plus years of riding told me holy crap this thing is fast. The trees don`t go by this fast on my old Triumph`s or Harley`s. It had a fuel injector seal leaking but a little wiggling stopped that. The only down side is the riding position is hard on my elbows but time will improve this as I get used to it. The up side is yeee haw, is runs and runs well. Jerry
I bet you are having a blast, Jerry. You will find that Flying Bricks are super smooth, so you don't always know how fast you are going. The speed just seems to creep up there. Nothing like my old R60 boxer.
How about some pictures?
Post by: frankenduck on January 29, 2013, 05:49:42 PM
The only down side is the riding position is hard on my elbows but time will improve this as I get used to it.
Master Yoda Riding Position (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3010.0)
Post by: CRASH on January 30, 2013, 11:37:53 AM
OLD OEM
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/old_zpsd27abe59.jpg)
NEW GALFER
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/new_zps54a97c67.jpg)
Post by: pallum on February 05, 2013, 08:30:33 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/Qk788l6l.jpg)
Really... :dunno
Post by: Chaos on February 05, 2013, 09:09:47 PM
A little searching and a set of Galfer Wave Rotors were purchased for less than a single OEM rotor.
NEW GALFER
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/new_zps54a97c67.jpg)
Ohhh, those are pretty. Me jealous :beer:
Post by: frogy on February 07, 2013, 06:17:22 PM
I road this bike for a few miles before I started tearing it down,and noticed when I would ride on grooved roads it would try and follow the grooves-not fun.Cant wait to finish this project and ride on radials vs bias.
Post by: kightboy on February 07, 2013, 11:48:16 PM
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u680/kightboy/DSCF1879_zps39cfe4ea.jpg) (http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u680/kightboy/DSCF1874_zps448fe574.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on February 11, 2013, 01:53:55 AM
Post by: Brad-Man on February 11, 2013, 11:38:51 AM
Now to get the paralever and a shock...
Post by: Kyle10 on February 11, 2013, 03:56:58 PM
Would you, could you jot down the shopping list for this?
Post by: BillyMac on February 11, 2013, 05:47:09 PM
Post by: kightboy on February 15, 2013, 02:22:31 PM
From Stebel i purchased the horn and, for another $18 or so, a kit that had all the wires, the relay that was needed and nutsnbolts to mount is. Total cost was about $85 if you include shipping.
On my K75 the horn hangs down below the radiator with a one-bolt mounting site. The existing mounting plate for the stock horn is just three strips of metal with a hole in both ends. The three strips layer together to make one thick strip. Don't know why any old strip of thicker metal wouldn't work. This horn fit perfectly with the existing mount. I had to run a buncha wires back and forth to the new horn because the added relay needed added wiring. The existing horn wires are used to send signal to the relay that THEN sends the juice to the air horn compressor. No big deal. The instruction for running the wires was VERY easy to follow, incredibly simply worded and they take you one little baby-step at a time. I was worried about this part because I do NOT know wiring but it was cake.
The hardest part of this mount was finding a really good grounding bolt on the bike in a convenient but hidden place because i was too lazy to remove enough of the bike parts to get to the negative side of the battery. the pos side was reachable but the neg side is tucked way underneath and I couldn't get a tool on it.
this sucker is loud. halfway between the dual horns of a ferrari and a mack truck. my wife doesn't allow me to erm...."test" it in the enclosed garage any more because it scares her AND the cats. (which, of course for me is "fun" but i've now had my fun and will attempt to behave. On the road though - all restrictions are off.
Post by: billday on February 16, 2013, 06:59:45 PM
The headache of the moment is that the hose clamps I got per Max's fiche are busting my butt -- they are to spec (p/n 17 12 1 461 500) but they sure act like they're too small for the job.
Tomorrow is another day! Really happy to have my hands back in the guts of my bike...
Oh, and a question. Should I attach the plenum to the throttle body assembly before or after I install the throttle body assembly on the manifolds? Any opinions or experience?
Post by: frankenduck on February 16, 2013, 07:17:47 PM
TB to those.
Hoses on plenum (hopefully you replaced those too - only $5 each.
Plenum.
At least that's how I do it.
The 13mm clamps are 13311460928 and should work.
Post by: billday on February 16, 2013, 07:53:53 PM
Post by: Brickhead on February 16, 2013, 08:12:49 PM
Ok, I "fixed" this issue last summer (well I thought I fixed it :eek2: but my gear shift lever loosened up this past fall and just getting to it now. I haven't ridden it being unemployed and hence having not much money :dunno2:. Anyway the last "fix" involved red Loctite (not sure what number) supposedly the "won't come loose stuff". The shift lever is attached to a shaft which goes into the transmission and is secured to a lever with a set screw. Well this set screw is the culprit. I'm not sure what I did wrong but obviously it didn't hold.
My question is half rhetorical and half serious. I wonder if Loctite is resistive to trany fluid and if anyone has had to deal with this same issue I wonder what you used to secure said set screw?
Post by: billday on February 17, 2013, 06:47:35 PM
Post by: branandfox on February 21, 2013, 06:54:22 AM
Post by: TimTyler on February 21, 2013, 10:42:44 AM
..."Lamborghini Orange" ...
Is that different from "Traffic Cone Orange"?
Post by: argent brick on February 21, 2013, 12:29:57 PM
Post by: tsbt on February 21, 2013, 12:59:26 PM
So the used K1100rs fairing bits I picked up from a guy parting out his K11 is now getting read to be repainted. got a price yesterday and decided on getting the whole damn thing "Lamborghini Orange" with some Black vinyl decals custom made on the bellypan with " K100rs" and "Nessy" on the other side. shes going to be a real show stopper soon! rounding up my dollar bills and taking it in in a few weeks. So new pictures in a month or so!
I'll be keeping track of your project. Sounds like fun. Doing the same thing to mine once I find a few more fairing parts. Good luck with it!
Post by: argent brick on February 21, 2013, 02:46:00 PM
Post by: frankenduck on February 21, 2013, 03:25:46 PM
(http://classickbikes.com/ckb/my_k_bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75/k75left.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on February 21, 2013, 04:39:56 PM
Here's my orange K bike:(http://classickbikes.com/ckb/my_k_bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75/k75left.jpg)
What fairing is that? It is not stock is it?
Post by: branandfox on February 21, 2013, 04:46:45 PM
Also, here is a picture of the lamborghini orange that My bike will be. Metal flakes galore!
Love the depth of the paint!
Post by: frankenduck on February 21, 2013, 04:49:43 PM
Here's my orange K bike:(http://classickbikes.com/ckb/my_k_bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75/k75left.jpg)
What fairing is that? It is not stock is it?
Aftermarket: Pichler. (Pronounced "Pickler" since they're Krauts.)
Newer? That bike is an 87 and that fairing had some miles on it.
Post by: branandfox on February 21, 2013, 05:03:22 PM
Post by: frankenduck on February 21, 2013, 05:37:20 PM
(http://home.comcast.net/~smithduck/tours/bmwk/bmwk_pics/bmwk_1878.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on February 22, 2013, 02:03:17 AM
Post by: 2000rsv on February 22, 2013, 04:56:01 PM
I think we all have a bike or car that we regret parting with. I should have never sold my boxer or my 1963 Dart. Here is another pic. I know it is a boxer but it is orange and silver, so I placed it in here because of the colors.
Would also like to see a picture of the '63 Dart. My Dad had one that was a convertible with a small block 8 cylinder in it. It would fly. Cool car.
Post by: argent brick on February 22, 2013, 10:45:11 PM
I think we all have a bike or car that we regret parting with. I should have never sold my boxer or my 1963 Dart. Here is another pic. I know it is a boxer but it is orange and silver, so I placed it in here because of the colors.
Would also like to see a picture of the '63 Dart. My Dad had one that was a convertible with a small block 8 cylinder in it. It would fly. Cool car.
I would like a picture of it too. I don't think I have any. My ex-wife tore the car up. To her it was just a another car. To me it was much more than that. I grew up across the street from that very car. I remember when my neighbor bought it back in 1963. He died a few years later and it sat in the garage most of the time. His wife drove it very little. It looked like a million bucks. The car was all original except for one door repaint. The only thing I had to do was buff the paint and throw some wax on it to display it in a local car show. When I got it, it only had less than 84000 original miles on it. That was 1997.
Here is one in black. Mine was white with a blue interior.
Post by: Chaos on February 22, 2013, 11:43:47 PM
Anyway, about 5 years ago I saw it at a grocery store, recognized some of the decals. It was rusted through, bare springs for the seats, duck taped windows, BUT IT STILL RAN!
Damn thing couldn't corner for squat, brakes were a joke and the slant 6 got 14mpg but it could take all the abuse imaginable and come back for more.
Post by: fespado on February 22, 2013, 11:46:16 PM
nothing yet. ... got a new toy :yes
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7860284634_f16cbde14b.jpg)
What is that?
Post by: fespado on February 22, 2013, 11:49:37 PM
Post by: fespado on February 22, 2013, 11:51:13 PM
Post by: billday on February 24, 2013, 09:13:43 PM
Air box with ignition in it is installed....
In the process of installing the PIAA lights I bought from Duck -- waiting for my Posi-Taps to come in tomorrow's mail so I can make the final connection (thanks for talking me through it, Duck, hopefully I can finish the job without frying anything). [UPDATE: See last pic below!]
Up next: I'm waiting for the headlight relay kit I ordered from Eastern Beaver. This has been a winter for conspicuity upgrades, I've also added rear Run-n-Lights running lights.
Post by: roninvt on February 27, 2013, 04:05:55 PM
Hoping I will be saying the same thing about my new seat!!
Post by: Bassv on March 02, 2013, 12:10:06 PM
Post by: WayneDW on March 02, 2013, 06:37:26 PM
Fuel Injectors are back from Mr Injector and the weather is warming up. I think it's time to start putting things back together!
Post by: detbmw on March 03, 2013, 04:15:20 PM
Replaced the three rubber bushings between the throttle-bodies and the air accumulator. The bike had started running like crap at idle a couple weeks ago. A posting on this forum pointed me right to the problem. Afterwards when I cranked the bike, it ran perfect at idle.
Painted the silver lines on the valve and crankcase covers black and painted the BMW on both sides red to match the fairing color. I saw a K75S on ebay a while back that had the BMW letters painted red on both sides and I liked that.
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/0178b4a9-5ddd-4bfa-ba13-47099cb2cf00_zps1aa80bc0.jpg)
Post by: frankenduck on March 03, 2013, 04:45:12 PM
Installed a Kisan SM-6 Signalminder, so now the turn signals on both my bikes work the same
With the SM-6 you can now run LED turn signals. Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-BAY15D-18-SMD-5050-Amber-Yellow-Tail-Turn-Signal-18-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/321064444175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0eea10f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-BAY15D-18-SMD-5050-Amber-Yellow-Tail-Turn-Signal-18-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/321064444175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0eea10f&vxp=mtr)
Post by: detbmw on March 03, 2013, 06:02:30 PM
Installed a Kisan SM-6 Signalminder, so now the turn signals on both my bikes work the same
With the SM-6 you can now run LED turn signals. Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-BAY15D-18-SMD-5050-Amber-Yellow-Tail-Turn-Signal-18-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/321064444175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0eea10f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-BAY15D-18-SMD-5050-Amber-Yellow-Tail-Turn-Signal-18-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/321064444175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0eea10f&vxp=mtr)
So this led plugs right into the existing front and back turn signal bulb socket as is?
And the SM-6 will know that there is a working light there even with the lower power draw?
Post by: frankenduck on March 03, 2013, 06:18:25 PM
The SM-6 doesn't test the turn signal bulbs like the OEM flasher relay does.
That's what I run on my bikes - SM-6 with those LEDs.
Post by: argent brick on March 03, 2013, 07:13:52 PM
Yep, they're "plug-n-play" in the sockets.
The SM-6 doesn't test the turn signal bulbs like the OEM flasher relay does.
That's what I run on my bikes - SM-6 with those LEDs.
Do you still have the darned red dash light come on because the LEDs don't draw power like a normal bulb?
Post by: detbmw on March 03, 2013, 07:14:08 PM
Yep, they're "plug-n-play" in the sockets.
The SM-6 doesn't test the turn signal bulbs like the OEM flasher relay does.
That's what I run on my bikes - SM-6 with those LEDs.
Thanks! I just ordered four!
Post by: frankenduck on March 03, 2013, 07:23:30 PM
Yep, they're "plug-n-play" in the sockets.
The SM-6 doesn't test the turn signal bulbs like the OEM flasher relay does.
That's what I run on my bikes - SM-6 with those LEDs.
Do you still have the darned red dash light come on because the LEDs don't draw power like a normal bulb?
Different circuits:
a) The flasher relay hyperflashes the turn signals if it thinks one is bad.
b) The BMU (bulb monitor unit) which lights up the "triangle light" in the cluster checks the tail and brake light bulbs. The Bulb Monitor Unit (BMU) and LEDs (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=331.0)
Post by: ttown95LT on March 05, 2013, 10:19:06 PM
Post by: billday on March 09, 2013, 05:46:45 PM
SO CLOSE to going for a ride.... just need to pressure check my new fuel lines and adjust the choke and throttle. Can't wait!
Post by: detbmw on March 09, 2013, 06:09:55 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/cb2f5720-e67b-4174-90ef-fde5d16cc447_zps2142ee19.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/673c6c6d-499f-4b1a-a155-e6f901623019_zpsb82b27cc.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/638e1ba9-961b-47ad-b2d7-2f4bbc104dff_zpsdeb97e7c.jpg)
Post by: roninvt on March 09, 2013, 06:34:34 PM
Post by: detbmw on March 13, 2013, 11:29:48 AM
Yep, they're "plug-n-play" in the sockets.
The SM-6 doesn't test the turn signal bulbs like the OEM flasher relay does.
That's what I run on my bikes - SM-6 with those LEDs.
Well, they work perfect in the rear turn signals, but they will not illuminate on either side in the front.
Post by: WayneDW on March 17, 2013, 06:23:52 PM
Post by: TimTyler on March 17, 2013, 06:46:35 PM
Removed filter was a Mahle KL-145 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDJSXQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005GDJSXQ&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) and I just ordered another one of those to keep in the cowl.
Post by: cmichael on March 18, 2013, 11:25:48 AM
Not completely in love with the headlight mount, may get something machined in the future.
One more good weekend and she will be ready for the road. :bmwsmile
Q: Are the tree bolts one time use(stretch bolts) I had one pop unexpectedly!
Q2: I am a moron, the fork boots go on with the restrictive part towards the top correct?
Post by: artcollinsjr on March 24, 2013, 10:50:12 AM
Post by: Red on March 24, 2013, 07:30:31 PM
Post by: CRASH on March 26, 2013, 10:39:05 PM
I know JO loves his ME880s, but here are a few pics of my experiment with them. 3200 miles is all I got out of these and they look like this.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/small_zps8f28b290.jpg)
This is the back, not sure you can see it in the pictures but there are chunks of rubber missing out of the edge lips of the tread groves. I have never seen this before and it is very disappointing .. I was hoping these would be good Iron Butt ride tires, but I get almost twice the mileage out of sticky, better handling sport touring tires ... done experimenting for a while.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/small2_zpscc75bd07.jpg)
Post by: roninvt on March 28, 2013, 05:53:20 PM
until I changed the oil!!
Post by: TimTyler on March 28, 2013, 06:16:16 PM
Post by: argent brick on March 29, 2013, 01:21:20 AM
Installed some badass police crashbars. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3903.msg23925.html#msg23925)
Sweet, how in the world did you find those?
Post by: TimTyler on March 29, 2013, 01:35:50 AM
Sweet, how in the world did you find those?
IBMWR classifieds.
Post by: argent brick on March 29, 2013, 07:36:48 PM
Post by: Michael in AZ on March 31, 2013, 12:48:40 AM
After being inspired by the ride reports, I have toyed with the idea of keeping a n00b report log. Being a first time bike owner with the mechanical know-how of your average 9 year old and choosing a 20 year old classic machine for my ride, means that I have/continue to have many many educational experiences that border on the absurd :hehehe. It occurs to me listing them all and posting (once my general embarrassment is not such an issue) could have some entertainment value. :loopy: In any case, I was so damned glad to get it all straightened out after 13 days grounded I immediately went out on a 150 mile ride up to Flagstaff and back down through Sedona to get the lead out. God I love riding my Brick!
Post by: WayneDW on March 31, 2013, 09:41:49 AM
In any case, I was so damned glad to get it all straightened out after 13 days grounded I immediately went out on a 150 mile ride up to Flagstaff and back down through Sedona to get the lead out. God I love riding my Brick!
Glad it worked out for ya. Good choice of roads, BTW, gotta love that 89 to Sedona! It is now on my bucket list to get back there on my K75.
Post by: NickAndHisBrick on April 03, 2013, 11:18:18 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/hotrodkid/SSPX0661_zpse7852a13.jpg)
Post by: Brad-Man on April 04, 2013, 07:04:03 PM
Post by: NickAndHisBrick on April 04, 2013, 09:49:37 PM
heres another
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/hotrodkid/imagejpeg_33_zpsd02a8820.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on April 04, 2013, 10:15:19 PM
Post by: NickAndHisBrick on April 04, 2013, 11:07:31 PM
This is Montego
(http://www.f30post.com/forums/e90garageimg/8059/IMG_0742d.jpg)
This is Lemans:
(http://amjphotography.smugmug.com/Machines/2009-M3-1/i-NzRwRfk/0/XL/DSC0403DxO-XL.jpg)
Gotta see both in person again some time to decide for sure...
Post by: cmichael on April 05, 2013, 05:54:40 PM
Still have plenty of small projects to go.
Post by: WayneDW on April 05, 2013, 09:27:17 PM
Mounted up the freshly coated rims and went for a short 50 mile ride. Still to cold at 48 degrees.Cool picture, interesting effect. Something about the street out of focus makes it look like a toy motorcycle on a table. You obviously have photo taking skills.
Still have plenty of small projects to go.
Post by: cmichael on April 05, 2013, 09:54:16 PM
Not super happy with the pic, just wait until I get the dslr out! What kind of shock do you run on your bike, your name and location sound familiar?
Post by: WayneDW on April 05, 2013, 09:59:12 PM
Thanks Wayne,I have a Works shock that I bought used from somebody on a forum. I'm guessing it was you?
What kind of shock do you run on your bike, your name and location sound familiar?
Post by: roninvt on April 05, 2013, 11:22:33 PM
Post by: vesku on April 07, 2013, 03:23:29 PM
Post by: WayneDW on April 07, 2013, 06:13:48 PM
Next is to put all the fiberglass back on and start riding!
Post by: Octarine on April 07, 2013, 07:18:28 PM
So I need to change some shims but it's not the end of the world. So I say to myself " ok lets bleed the brakes and get rid of that molasses looking brake fluid, that'll be easy"
WRONG
Take off the front reservoir cap and the diaphragm is stuck to the cap. I very gently start to pull it away and the entire inner surface of the diaphragm sloughs off in tiny pieces.
Then the top part rips like a condom on Prom night. I figure ok, at least I can get rid of the old fluid. Hook up the Mityvac and crack the bleeder, nothing happens. Corrosion in the bleed nipple. If there's corrosion there, I probably have to rebuild the entire caliper, right? So, diaphragms and rebuild kits for Brembos. I am afraid to even look online to see what those are gonna set me back.
Great. Sunday night, I'm working Mon though next Sat, off Sun then through the following Fri so no chance to get to Motoworks unless I take an hour off in the morning which I may very well do. Didn't even touch the rear. I've got a wet towel wrapped around the handlebar because if the bars move it leaks. I know I bought an older bike because I like working on them but it would be so much easier without that pesky day job!
Post by: Chaos on April 07, 2013, 07:47:59 PM
Post by: racinrich on April 07, 2013, 10:10:09 PM
Post by: mjydrafter on April 08, 2013, 04:02:06 PM
I also topped up the battery and cleaned the area around the battery/alternator. :riding:
Post by: Grim on April 14, 2013, 03:42:56 PM
Bought my 95 LT last week (Saturday 4/6 ). I knew more about the bike and its workings then the people I bought it from. They didnt even know about the storage in the tail when I asked if it had its tools. Told them finders keepers on the bungee cords that were in there with the tools if I buy the bike. :hehehe
Putted around the neighborhood Sunday not wanting to press my luck. Monday morning get it insured and tagged. Take a couple short rides during the week. I have a receipt where the PO had the engine oil, transmission oil and rear end oil changed at the local dealer in the last 500 miles. They all look nice and clean all right at the full mark so no priority to change them right away.
Find this site looking for owners and repair manuals and read through them.
Friday I get a chance to really start going over it to see what maintenance it needed.
Apparently when the dealer had it for the oil change doing inspections for any possible (safety) issues is not part of their routine.
The rear brake reservoir was bone dry...because the rear brake pads were totally worn out (thankfully not to the metal). They were functioning on the the fluid in the hose. Thank goodness its so long. hahah I wanted to ride it this weekend so I sucked it up and bought the pads from the dealer instead of waiting for mail order from Kbikes or boneyard. Get a second factory style key cut while I'm there and a couple ABS sensor shims because the front was over the .065 feeler and the three shims on it I could not get it to the .055 it needed to be. I brought the bikes Stereo with me so they could look up the code for me so I could see if it works. Squeels like a pig when your turn it on so I assume that's the alarm feature?
Managed to loose the new key between it being cut and getting home. Called the dealer just before they closed and they couldn't find it :dunno
Install the new pads and bleed the rear circuit. Check the front level and find fluid low but pretty fresh set of pads on it and no signs of leaks. So topped it off since I'm low on fluid but plan to bleed them soon for good measure.
Sat Morning I decide to run down to the dealer to look for my key before going to the annual blood drive the 4x4 club I run with does. Take the bike so I can bed in the new rear pads. Find my key in the grass right where I told them to check. I had backed in and apparently dropped the new key when I was putting the stereo in the trunk. Go in let them know I found it.
They had a open house going on and told me to grab a ticket for a door prize. So I do and the lady smiles tells me I got a good one and has me pick out of a bin for the corresponding color. Got a $45 cover for the bike. :eek:
Decide to try the new key when I go to leave and it doesn't work. I looked at it and they looked at it side by side and they looked Identical. So they cut another key and it worked fine. :dunno
Rounded out the day by my car (70 Pontiac LeMans Convertible) winning a trophy at the Blood drive (i'm thinking it being the only car left had something to do with that LOL) and a $20 gift certificate for Olive Garden so take the wife out in the next couple days.
Rained today so not out riding :(
Post by: Red on April 15, 2013, 12:37:54 PM
Post by: Red on April 15, 2013, 01:38:22 PM
Post by: Red on April 15, 2013, 02:30:20 PM
Post by: Red on April 15, 2013, 02:36:05 PM
Post by: mystic red on April 15, 2013, 03:40:12 PM
Post by: Red on April 15, 2013, 04:34:56 PM
Post by: Octarine on April 15, 2013, 04:40:30 PM
Sigh. At least it was the donor. Cant wait to get my garage and tear that thing into manageable bits
Post by: Grim on April 15, 2013, 10:05:45 PM
Having to take care of aging parents really sucks up the time on my schedule ... so I am somewhat delayed in keeping up with the progress and investigation of my (new to me) '97 K1100LT. Popped the valve cover and checked the current valve measurements. I picked up some shims to make some valve adjustments to this bike. :yow
Thats amazingly clean for a 97! How many miles did it have and do you know what they were running for oil?
I like the Chris Harris vids as well. Just cant watch them while the 12 year old is around. I'd be the one taking a beating if she dropped the F bomb. Watched the one that covered exhaust mount as well and it was one of the first things I checked on mine.
Drove mine to work today and just as I got to work it missed a couple beats just as I pulled in. On the way home it started fine decided to make a lap of the block and head to a auto parts store to see if they have a cheap antenna. Got caught at a light and its starts missing BAD as I take off. :dunno Clears a little so instead of going straight home I decided to go to the parts store. Get caught at a light and it starts missing again. :dunno2: dive off a side street and get pointed back home. Really had to rev it to take off. breaking up all the way home and as I turn onto my street it starts acting better.
Let it cool and start looking for Vac leaks, none that I could find but the rubber between the throttle body and head on a could look a little worse for wear but found no leaks with some propane.
Pulled the plugs and metered the wires. Wires good. #4 plug had some deposits that were not on the other three. Cleaned the deposits off and checked gaps. #2 gap was something like 34 when it should have been 26-28.
I filed it Saturday so got worried I got some bad gas or the F-in ethanol separated and loaded my tank with water. Took the gas cap off to peak in the tank. Its spotless in the tank. Did not see any water in the low parts. Cant see the actual pick up as its view is blocked by the pump but rocked the bike back to try to see if any water was hiding under the pump but nothing came out.
Put it back together drove it around my neighborhood for a while got it good and hot and seems fine. :dunno
Either it was the deposits on the plug or it did suck up a little water and passed it.
Drive it tomorrow and see what happens. I live close so the wife can come get me and I can go grab it with the trailer if it breaks down.
Think I'll order plugs, the rubber intake parts, new fuel lines (they look dry), filter and O rings for the flanges and change them for good measure this week. I have a place near by that can turn around injectors in 48 hours so may have them serviced. If your in the metro Atlanta area its http://www.tdesystems.com/ (http://www.tdesystems.com/) Their main office where they service the injectors is Forest Park and they have a location on Hwy5 right at the Cherokee/ Cobb county line and they run stuff back and forth daily. They have no problem servicing Bosch and ND injectors. They did a good job on the injectors in my 4Runner and inline price wise with others that service injectors.
Post by: roninvt on April 15, 2013, 10:52:04 PM
Post by: Grim on April 17, 2013, 06:14:44 AM
So I managed to pick up a cheap antenna at Pep girls and make it work. The mast was gone but the parts in the fairing where there so I was able to modify a $16 antenna to work with the bike. Got the code from the dealer last week and after some futzing around managed to get it to unlock and work. No rear speakers. There is a set of wires in the glove box not connected to anything and I guess thats the Trunk speakers so I'll mess with that tomorrow.
Anybody know of a wiring diagram for the stereo? I skimmed through the factory manual and did not see it.
Post by: Red on April 17, 2013, 04:58:28 PM
Post by: detbmw on April 17, 2013, 05:39:16 PM
Then changed the oil.
Post by: Red on April 17, 2013, 06:04:02 PM
Post by: CRASH on April 17, 2013, 06:46:37 PM
New Michelin Pilot Road 3 tires came in ... attempted to mount the tire (150/70-17) on my K1100LT stock rear wheel ... and could not get it to work. Took it down to my local BMW shop to let them have a go at it and they tried, and tried (straps too) but no go ... I returned these tires and had the shop remount my existing Ply on the rear wheel. I've decided to just burn up the rubber on my Plys and will see what I can do with having radials at a future date. I'm inclined to go with and obtain the rear wheel (found on the K1100RS) and then put some radial tires on this K1100LT of mine. :musicboohoo: :dunno2:
Start another thread on this and tell us what exactly the issue was. If the size is right, it can work.
Post by: TimTyler on April 17, 2013, 08:00:46 PM
In the process I discovered that my mutha effing son-of-a-Bosch radiator fan froze up over the winter. Called all the local retailers who had no luck cross-referencing the Bosch numbers so I ordered one from Euro MotoElectrics in Colorado who shipped it 10 minutes after I called to check stock. Should have it by week's end since they're only one time zone away. Forecast for the weekend and next week looks great so it better get here :)
Post by: Red on April 19, 2013, 04:39:50 PM
Post by: Octarine on April 25, 2013, 12:49:48 AM
By the time I got that done the mailman arrived with the valve shim tools so I swapped in the correct size shims. I was on a roll by then so I replaced the valve cover gaskets and changed the oil.
I hope to take her for a shakeout ride tomorrow and see how she runs.
Post by: Grim on April 25, 2013, 06:39:34 AM
My bike has the Odyssey PC680 battery and it doesn't fit quite right. The PO had some piece of plastic on it to keep it insulated that I had to retain for the correct height and to keep the positive isolated. . Was a bit of a hokey set up. What are others doing to make this Odssey work?
I also installed my missing bar end.
Today I'll replace the broken crash bar isolation mounts.
Post by: eyeofcy on April 25, 2013, 11:57:09 PM
Post by: 2000rsv on April 26, 2013, 04:42:51 PM
Changed clutch and main o-ring seal. Lubed splines, installed new driveshaft since splines had not been lubed in time. Installed bar risers and longer brake line from MC to steering head. New o-ring under front brake MC reservoir. New shoes front and back. New plugs. Checked the valve clearance. Sync'd throttle bodies. Fixed throttle lock. Lubed throttle cable mechanism.
1/2 can of Seafoam in a full tank of non-ethanol fuel.
It is ready to ride - I hope.
Post by: scoobs on April 26, 2013, 05:12:10 PM
I'd just installed a new sensor as I had a similar problem a week ago.
Shit happens but I'd really been looking forward to this trip :dunno
Scoobs
Post by: Grim on April 26, 2013, 10:12:46 PM
Post by: Octarine on April 27, 2013, 12:33:30 PM
Any ideas? Im going to pull the plugs and squirt in some penetrating oil. Is it possible to burn that much oil in 40 miles of riding?
I have to say I am extremely disheartened. I do have a donor 87 k100 lt, is an engine swap possible to my 85 k100 naked?
Post by: TimTyler on April 27, 2013, 01:05:39 PM
The last work you did was valve shims so that's where I'd start looking for the problem.
Post by: Grim on April 27, 2013, 07:24:00 PM
Picked up a harbor freight balancer on the way home. Piece of cake. Front wheel was fine. Back wheel needed 1oz. Probably could have spun the tire about 180 and got it down to 1/4 but I had no way to easily break the bead.
Took Ducks recommendation of Avon 46 on the back and a Bridgestone on the front.
The goddess of motorcycles smiled upon me and got with Mother Nature and held off the rain that was suppose to be here at noon. Let me get 45 miles of test ride in. :D Big improvement over the 13 year old bais 491's.
Post by: WayneDW on April 27, 2013, 09:33:56 PM
Wow those clean fuel injectors (Mr. Injector) are the bomb! Mine weren't that bad before the cleaning but now it's like I added a turbo or something: Smooth and fast!
I also had balanced the throttle bodies which I'm sure helped as well.
Post by: Octarine on April 27, 2013, 09:50:43 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 27, 2013, 10:21:30 PM
Took the bike on a shakedown ride and the engine seized.
You mean it just stopped running or is locked up solid? Any bang-clunk-crunch noises when it stopped?
Post by: Octarine on April 27, 2013, 11:46:17 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 28, 2013, 01:14:55 AM
Post by: TimTyler on April 28, 2013, 06:46:32 PM
Turns out the old ones were not in bad shape, but I put the news ones in anyway.
Alternator brushes have a little life left in them but I should order some new ones. They are at ~6 mm and 5 mm is the service limit. New is 10 mm.
Post by: Grim on April 29, 2013, 06:48:32 PM
Tracked down some NGK's yesterday to replace the plugs. Noticeable improvement on the ride to and from work today. Gets a little better every day. :riding:
Post by: TimTyler on May 02, 2013, 11:55:12 AM
Why did I wait two years to do this????
It took all of five minutes and a couple of hex wrenches. Nice improvement in throttle response at idle and low RPM's. Engine seems a little more smooth. I just eye-balled the clockwise rotation of the HES, let the engine run for a while, and then backed off the rotation a bit to play it safe.
Balanced the throttle bodies and the TPS to complete the process.
Post by: TaosBrick on May 04, 2013, 04:49:49 PM
Prolly a good thing I couldn't get on MB for the last coupla days with the server change - y'all didn't have to listen to me whining and wringing my hands thru the Dread Spline Lube :2thumbup:
Post by: Chaos on May 04, 2013, 08:28:39 PM
Post by: Octarine on May 04, 2013, 09:02:33 PM
All in all a good day, I was sure i had killed the engine.
Post by: tsbt on May 09, 2013, 04:59:13 PM
(http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q588/thespacebetweenthings/249064_10200541436751970_612951263_n_zpsb9cc8ad8.jpg)
Post by: argent brick on May 10, 2013, 02:41:46 AM
Post by: sh00ter on May 10, 2013, 08:13:35 PM
Post by: greenmtrider on May 10, 2013, 08:39:19 PM
Post by: mystic red on May 11, 2013, 07:05:50 PM
Post by: Scott_ on May 11, 2013, 09:12:28 PM
Next will be 2 full sets of tires, once they arrive.
Post by: johnny on May 11, 2013, 09:32:13 PM
we went to red full overheat... fan was not moving... moved the the blade with a stick and could hear it trying to run... pulled the fuse and hoped for the best... we were 50 miles from anything... thats why its called the lost coast... a 10 foot wide road in... a 10 foot wide road out... switchbacks and enormous grades... we had to stop a few times butts we made it to the 1 and we could keep enough air flowing to get us back to our home base...
ebayed a fan assy from a & m... called to conform the order... had it 4 days later... today we returned to the hotel where we left the motobrick... it was over 100 degrees with no shade and no wind... the truck had it at 110 indicated...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0154_zps9b73196d.jpg)
everything on the back of the truck would burn you from the unabated sun...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0152_zps0ec4913f.jpg)
ever see anything like this... its so f ing hot on the back of the truck the belly pan melted in three spots...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0150_zps6db93b75.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0149_zps84c3c0d9.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0148_zps7d148fc3.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0147_zpsff10b2db.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0146_zps44007f0b.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0145_zpsf23742b9.jpg)
wtf... #3 in the back of the radiator... gotts lucky that f er didnt leak and the fan didnt rub through... so it was fan assy and done... 3 hours and new 50/50 green coolant...
still freaking about the melted faring...
j o
Post by: mystic red on May 11, 2013, 11:19:25 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/DROID/IMAG0154_zps9b73196d.jpg)
Post by: Grim on May 12, 2013, 04:24:16 PM
Went and managed a 100 mile ride today hoping to build confidence in the bike after sorting out a couple issues. First chance I have really had to just go ride since I bought it a few weeks ago. Had 28 miles on the tank of around town commuting. Ran 70mph for a while and ran up to the top of a decent little mountain. Got an intermittent miss after about 50 mile. Thought my issue I had come up a couple weeks ago was back so I headed home instead of continuing on. Did OK on the hwy but when I exited and got caught at the light I got a couple pops as I pulled off.
Decided when I got (if LOL ) home to pop the plugs out and see if they had fouled. As I pulled up to my garage I could hear a new popping noise consistent with RPM when I got next to the family Truckster where the souldn was bouncing back at me as I waited for the door to open. Left it running and put it up on the stand and got my helmet off to investigate.
Seems I didn't get #4 plug wire full seated and it popped off. :oops: I cant believe it was firing at all! The tab on the top of the plug hat was actually sticking through the slot on the plug cover! :yow
My millage for the tank with an intermittent miss worked out to be 39-40mpg
Post by: WayneDW on May 12, 2013, 07:43:13 PM
Post by: sh00ter on May 12, 2013, 08:50:03 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/13/ary4evaz.jpg)
Post by: Chaos on May 17, 2013, 11:45:26 PM
Post by: Lawrence on May 18, 2013, 12:31:59 AM
Post by: Scott_ on May 18, 2013, 10:25:47 PM
Waiting for valve stems before I can do the tires, fork oil draining overnight, all other oils changed. Brake fluid to do after I get it off the lift.
Post by: racinrich on May 20, 2013, 09:43:28 PM
Post by: argent brick on May 21, 2013, 02:16:03 AM
hung the brick from the ceiling to frankenstein it
What are your plans?
Post by: johnny on May 24, 2013, 01:35:21 PM
thought i split a header at the collector... butts i stripped her down and discovered busted a nut... my stud was empty and i has lotts o more thumping to do...
so i found 2 galvanized 8mm nuts at a specialty hardware store... and i mean specialty... they had everything from rods to benwaballs... freaky place butts i made it back to the twisty hoevine straight away...
i even double nutted... with an adjustable wench... it was 100% yeeehaaaa...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMAG0165_zps1cb0cfc3.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMAG0166_zpsc6fa9ecb.jpg)
j o
Post by: Scott_ on May 24, 2013, 08:23:28 PM
Last night I got the new rubber mounted up for my '97 and re installed on the bike.
Now I just need to check/adjust my fuel sender float for low fuel light. Either that or I need to adjust the mounting of my non bmw fuel pump to pick up lower in the tank.
Post by: Lenn0x84 on May 26, 2013, 07:07:39 AM
Changed over the torsion dampener with a 12 bolt, resealed sump area and water pump, took all fairings off and replaced headlight with standard circular type, think Honda Hornet. Got a few more dials and lights working that werent before the rebuild, checked most cables and replaced throttle and choke (idle) cable. New Bosch plugs, regreased throttle & gearing, new oils and water throughout the bike, refitted the rear shock upside down (it was mounted another way originally but I have a feeling it was wrong, feels different but not sure if it's better) will start a thread about it with photos as I have failed in finding out any documentation relating to the shock and which way is tight to have it mounted.
I know this wasn't all done today but thought I'd give you all a bit of insight as I'll be on here a bit with some projects/mods that I plan for my K, and thought this and maybe the Porch might be the best places to let you know what I've done as background info. Will upload picture today/tomorrow so you can see what she looks like.
Looking forward to the journey.
Link to all my photos so far is https://www.dropbox.com/sc/46k6ko75i4kqth2/lBFBAvHiwW (https://www.dropbox.com/sc/46k6ko75i4kqth2/lBFBAvHiwW)
Enjoy :mm
Post by: johnny on May 26, 2013, 05:32:00 PM
so... for you that think a clogged fuel filter only raises its evil head when going fast... you know the deal... cant let enough gas flow to maintain high rpms... well now... it works the other way too...
the burd nesting under it cover... gonna blast out ca25 tomorrow...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMAG0167_zps11b8ea3f.jpg)
Post by: staffordworks on May 27, 2013, 11:57:15 AM
Post by: Grim on May 27, 2013, 01:06:42 PM
Post by: TimTyler on May 27, 2013, 07:31:21 PM
Here's hoping the JB Weld does the trick tomorrow when it's cured.
Post by: johnny on May 27, 2013, 07:42:49 PM
j o
Post by: Chaos on May 27, 2013, 07:55:22 PM
Stripped the shallow head on a Allen fork bolt a couple of weeks ago and made it worse today.
Here's hoping the JB Weld does the trick tomorrow when it's cured.
Not that it will do you any good now, but these thing are great! Almost never use the L wrenches anymore.
Post by: TimTyler on May 27, 2013, 08:02:41 PM
Post by: mystic red on May 27, 2013, 08:12:34 PM
Stripped the shallow head on a Allen fork bolt a couple of weeks ago and made it worse today.
Here's hoping the JB Weld does the trick tomorrow when it's cured.
Not that it will do you any good now, but these thing are great! Almost never use the L wrenches anymore.
Get a set of the long ones too!
Post by: mjydrafter on May 28, 2013, 09:20:17 AM
I made this little windscreen up yesterday afternoon, not too bad for my first attempt at bending up some polycarbonate.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/20130527_174854_zps022f6d10.jpg)
I took it for a test ride yesterday afternoon and was surprised by it's effectiveness. It makes it like a new bike and got rid of some pretty severe buffeting I had around my head and chest unless I was ducked down behind it the old way without the screen.
Post by: tsbt on May 28, 2013, 10:59:03 AM
Post by: argent brick on May 28, 2013, 02:02:07 PM
I think this thread is the best place for this, I was going to make a thread, but since I've yet to see anyone with a match to my fairing...
I made this little windscreen up yesterday afternoon, not too bad for my first attempt at bending up some polycarbonate.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/20130527_174854_zps022f6d10.jpg)
I took it for a test ride yesterday afternoon and was surprised by it's effectiveness. It makes it like a new bike and got rid of some pretty severe buffeting I had around my head and chest unless I was ducked down behind it the old way without the screen.
Isn't your fairing off of a R80 or a R65?
Post by: mjydrafter on May 28, 2013, 04:10:06 PM
Isn't your fairing off of a R80 or a R65?
Yep, and I've also seen it on a R45, but I think that may have been Euro-only as I can't find it in any fiches. Google image search on those 3 will pull them up. But I don't know if it's factory or aftermarket. I believe I have seen one like it on E-bay in searching. Don't know that it's rare or anything, but maybe scarce is a better description... :dunno
Post by: TimTyler on May 28, 2013, 04:34:48 PM
Tried a screw extractor tool and it worked :)
New replacement screws with deep heads and a dab of anti-seize then torqued to 40nm. Good times.
Post by: Scott_ on May 28, 2013, 06:20:12 PM
Post by: billday on May 28, 2013, 07:01:11 PM
You may want to keep your eyes open for some SS fasteners to replace those with.Or just get part number 07 11 9 901 034 FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW - M8X50 -- only $1.24 at Max's.
Number 6 here: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000607.png?v=04302013 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000607.png?v=04302013)
I stripped that very same head myself once, and got the feeling it was engineered to keep from getting over torqued by idiots like me. Very important: the same screws in the upper and lower trees take very different torque values.
Post by: Lenn0x84 on May 28, 2013, 07:13:10 PM
Q# is the catch poibtt for the clutch a personal preference or is there a minimum lever release distance?
Anyway rode to my mates place, tightened the HS (headstem), rebled the brakes and adjusted the tps. Wow the tps makes a difference. The bike feels much better with th HS tightened properly ;-)
Loaded a few night time street shots after work was done.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/46k6ko75i4kqth2/lBFBAvHiwW
Post by: mjydrafter on May 30, 2013, 02:16:43 PM
Less than an hour start to finish, and I spilled my airsoft bb's... :dunno
:bmwsmile
Edit: (I guess executives probably don't change their own tires...)
Post by: argent brick on May 31, 2013, 09:05:07 AM
Isn't your fairing off of a R80 or a R65?
Yep, and I've also seen it on a R45, but I think that may have been Euro-only as I can't find it in any fiches. Google image search on those 3 will pull them up. But I don't know if it's factory or aftermarket. I believe I have seen one like it on E-bay in searching. Don't know that it's rare or anything, but maybe scarce is a better description... :dunno
It's factory. Part# 46 63 1 240 822 Covering Cockpit $228.08
Duncan's Beemers had a used one a while back. They were asking $174 greenbacks for it.
Post by: tsbt on May 31, 2013, 09:55:00 AM
Q# is the catch poibtt for the clutch a personal preference or is there a minimum lever release distance?
Check this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=332.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=332.0)
Post by: TimTyler on May 31, 2013, 09:54:57 PM
Post by: rocket23 on June 02, 2013, 03:37:45 PM
Post by: TimTyler on June 02, 2013, 10:59:31 PM
Full spline lube too.
Post by: rocket23 on June 03, 2013, 12:23:02 AM
Post by: Lenn0x84 on June 03, 2013, 04:02:37 AM
Check the link in my signature :mm
Post by: sh00ter on June 03, 2013, 07:08:47 AM
Excuse my ignorance, whats a ''grub screw''??
A small screw, usually a hex head that is uniform circumference and threads from top to bottom. Typically the end of the screw is used to hold something in place via direct pressure against it.
Post by: Scott_ on June 03, 2013, 07:23:18 AM
Excuse my ignorance, whats a ''grub screw''??
Something that can come loose inside the K-bike transmission........ :yow
Causing head scratching, frustration, and results in transmission removal and dis-assembly to correct.
Post by: sh00ter on June 03, 2013, 08:59:19 AM
Excuse my ignorance, whats a ''grub screw''??
Something that can come loose inside the K-bike transmission........ :yow
Causing head scratching, frustration, and results in transmission removal and dis-assembly to correct.
<- +1
Post by: rocket23 on June 04, 2013, 12:02:47 AM
Anyone want to know what a k100 sounds like with the exhaust cut in half? :lets-eat:You do know you just sawed off 325 quid? right?
Check the link in my signature :mm
Post by: Lenn0x84 on June 04, 2013, 06:09:24 AM
You realise theres nothing on YouTube that show curious people like me and builders what a cheap mod like this can do. I've also got a spare exhaust that I picked up for $50 aus (£31.62) incase, but I love this mod and this may come in handy for someone on a budget, or a streetfighter etc...
Who cares about the money when my bike gives me such a smile. And if someones thinking of doing this I'll be slapping a video with better sound soon.
Post by: rocket23 on June 04, 2013, 07:52:54 AM
Thanks rocket, that fills me with enthusiasm to publish my project...I know, Lenn, no offense, mate. Talk about cheap mod's,Dodge has 2 hash marks on the front quarter panels of the challengers......Well I cut 2 strips of electrical tape and fitted them too the door handles of my Ram truck!.....Now thats cheap!,lol.
You realise theres nothing on YouTube that show curious people like me and builders what a cheap mod like this can do. I've also got a spare exhaust that I picked up for $50 aus (£31.62) incase, but I love this mod and this may come in handy for someone on a budget, or a streetfighter etc...
Who cares about the money when my bike gives me such a smile. And if someones thinking of doing this I'll be slapping a video with better sound soon.
I'm actuall gonna need some thing for my exhaust, it's showing it's age. I like the bogney cut exhaust, and the exhaust note is bettter than one might expect in your case. Good job. :2thumbup: :mbird
Post by: tsbt on June 04, 2013, 11:51:31 AM
Post by: branandfox on June 07, 2013, 03:39:29 PM
Post by: sh00ter on June 07, 2013, 08:34:25 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 09, 2013, 06:38:50 PM
Got all the oils changed, new tires mounted up, stripped down the front fairing assy to replace the steering head bearings.
I started by just cleaning them and see if that would help with "notchyness" but no dice. Still feel the notches with my fingernails so time to order bearing sets.
Have brake pads on order for both bikes and a rear rotor waiting for install on the '97.
Post by: Lenn0x84 on June 13, 2013, 11:38:15 PM
Did some little service bits and pieces, cleaned and re-greased brake and clutch levers... Sooooo smooth now :2thumbup:
Wanted to sync my tb's so I tried to build my own, but unfortunately will have to try again as it didn't turn out right, used 4mm tubing all the way but it looks like 4mm from vacum ports to 5mm tubing filled with oil would achieve a better result sooooo.
I decided to do it by ear :yow all the screws where 3-4 turns out!! What have they done to this thing? Screwed them all down and came out 1 1/2 turns, much snappier and I'll toy around with it a bit more tomorrow, I think I'll try 1-1/4 turns and have a play until I re-build my Synchronizing tool.
Anyway thought I'd say what I've been up...
:mm
Post by: K75Slark on June 14, 2013, 08:20:42 AM
Anyone have a good lead for the HES plate?
Post by: Lee Barker on June 14, 2013, 05:41:31 PM
Its the butt end of a putter grip. Golf. I happened to have on in the "very odd" drawer. If I wanted another, I would go to a thrift store and buy a putter for a buck or two. Slit the grip within about 2 inches of the end and it will all come off. Trim it down, heat it in water if you need to, and slide it on.
The pad is a piece of 3/16 aluminum.
Both additions are functioning per plan. It has been good.
Kindly,
Lee
Post by: Kyle10 on June 17, 2013, 07:09:34 PM
Gawd, if someone would replicate these relatively simple yet ever-rarer bars and brackets and sell them they'd make a tidy haul.
Now for the stripping, priming, painting, etc... :2thumbup:
Post by: argent brick on June 20, 2013, 04:35:37 AM
Post by: Grim on June 20, 2013, 09:06:04 PM
Used a "Seal Mate" on my fork seals today. It seemed to work just fine. Simple too. Time will tell if it did the job or I have to tear into my forks. Keep your fingers crossed.
My seals just showed up but for $5 it's got my attention. Let us know how it worked.
Vid so others can see what this is.
http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U (http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U)
Post by: argent brick on June 21, 2013, 08:23:18 PM
Used a "Seal Mate" on my fork seals today. It seemed to work just fine. Simple too. Time will tell if it did the job or I have to tear into my forks. Keep your fingers crossed.
My seals just showed up but for $5 it's got my attention. Let us know how it worked.
Vid so others can see what this is.
http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U (http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U)
Can do. Let me ride the silver beast for a few days and I will report back first part of next week.
Post by: Grim on June 22, 2013, 04:25:42 PM
The kick stand was bent bad enough that it has a flat spot rubbed into it from the muffler. Its was leaning so far over that I just didnt use it unless there was not a level spot to use the center stand where I could use the slope to counter. There was a bunch of slop at the pivot so I ordered a bushing for it that came in this week. :falldown:
When I pulled it all apart there was 2 bends and the the fork where it bolts on was splayed out. A good bit of time with the torch and 12 ton press its back to pretty straight. I also used a ABS sensor shim to take some of the slop out of the pivot as well. Now has well over 1 inch of clearance on the muffler and hits the rubber bumper correctly. Waiting on the fresh paint to dry and considering a small spacer on the pad but not finding anything in the shop. I think I saw Duck posted he has a hockey puck on his. Worried about the weigh possibly making it drop on a hard bump.
So once I get it together I believe it will require a nice long test ride to make sure the kick stand is functioning properly. See if I can find a cruise in to check out how it works. :riding:
Post by: Scott_ on June 22, 2013, 11:58:52 PM
New tires, all the oils changed, replacement brake rotors on the front, waiting for new pads, but I'm definitely going to ride it in the mean time.....
Handles sweet now, no hesitation to drop into the corners.
Post by: argent brick on June 23, 2013, 06:00:55 PM
Used a "Seal Mate" on my fork seals today. It seemed to work just fine. Simple too. Time will tell if it did the job or I have to tear into my forks. Keep your fingers crossed.
My seals just showed up but for $5 it's got my attention. Let us know how it worked.
Vid so others can see what this is.
http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U (http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U)
Can do. Let me ride the silver beast for a few days and I will report back first part of next week.
Seal Mate update.... The tool was very easy to use and worked slicker than snot. My fork leak is completely gone. It took me about about 10 minutes the first time and that included watching the online video. I used the tool a second time the next day just to be sure.
I admit, I did not think it was going to work. The forks have been leaking since before I bought the bike, about one and a half years ago. I hated to spend the money to have a shop do the repairs because money is tight right now. Shop cost: $72 per hour plus parts. Seal Mate: $5.99 at the local dirt bike shop. It is amazing how a little piece of plastic could save me that much cash.
Post by: Scott_ on June 23, 2013, 06:18:33 PM
Post by: Grim on June 24, 2013, 05:00:15 PM
Used a "Seal Mate" on my fork seals today. It seemed to work just fine. Simple too. Time will tell if it did the job or I have to tear into my forks. Keep your fingers crossed.
My seals just showed up but for $5 it's got my attention. Let us know how it worked.
Vid so others can see what this is.
http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U (http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U)
Can do. Let me ride the silver beast for a few days and I will report back first part of next week.
Seal Mate update.... The tool was very easy to use and worked slicker than snot. My fork leak is completely gone. It took me about about 10 minutes the first time and that included watching the online video. I used the tool a second time the next day just to be sure.
I admit, I did not think it was going to work. The forks have been leaking since before I bought the bike, about one and a half years ago. I hated to spend the money to have a shop do the repairs because money is tight right now. Shop cost: $72 per hour plus parts. Seal Mate: $5.99 at the local dirt bike shop. It is amazing how a little piece of plastic could save me that much cash.
Good to hear. Looks like a local dirt bike dealer might have it. Their online shows it at least. My buddy with a Kaw ZRX1200 just noticed his leaking and looking forward to giving it a try as well.
Post by: argent brick on June 24, 2013, 07:53:51 PM
Used a "Seal Mate" on my fork seals today. It seemed to work just fine. Simple too. Time will tell if it did the job or I have to tear into my forks. Keep your fingers crossed.
My seals just showed up but for $5 it's got my attention. Let us know how it worked.
Vid so others can see what this is.
http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U (http://youtu.be/USac5G4SI-U)
Can do. Let me ride the silver beast for a few days and I will report back first part of next week.
Seal Mate update.... The tool was very easy to use and worked slicker than snot. My fork leak is completely gone. It took me about about 10 minutes the first time and that included watching the online video. I used the tool a second time the next day just to be sure.
I admit, I did not think it was going to work. The forks have been leaking since before I bought the bike, about one and a half years ago. I hated to spend the money to have a shop do the repairs because money is tight right now. Shop cost: $72 per hour plus parts. Seal Mate: $5.99 at the local dirt bike shop. It is amazing how a little piece of plastic could save me that much cash.
Good to hear. Looks like a local dirt bike dealer might have it. Their online shows it at least. My buddy with a Kaw ZRX1200 just noticed his leaking and looking forward to giving it a try as well.
I figured it was snake oil. But for $5 bucks it was worth a try. Like I said, I did not think it was going to work. I have never seen a fork seal leak as bad as mine. I would have oil splattered all over my engine and radiator cowling after a very short ride. Only problem that I can see is that now I have to tear apart a perfectly good set of forks to install fork boots. Anybody have the OEM stock # for the boots?
Post by: Scott_ on June 24, 2013, 08:35:50 PM
Only problem that I can see is that now I have to tear apart a perfectly good set of forks to install fork boots. Anybody have the OEM stock # for the boots?
Why? instead of removing the fork lowers and ruin a set of seals, remove the entire fork out of the upper/lower tree's and put the boots on.
May be a little more work, but saves you more trouble and $.
As far as the boots themselves, get yourself a set or Rancho 1952's. You may be able to find them at your local parts store or Amazon has them for less than $5 each.
Post by: Par751 on June 27, 2013, 09:49:51 PM
Post by: TimTyler on June 27, 2013, 10:38:24 PM
Post by: frogy on June 30, 2013, 07:45:04 AM
Replaced the fairing and windshield on my 85 K100rs. Happy Days.Dang, that's some damage. Did your dog take a bite out of it?
Post by: Par751 on June 30, 2013, 07:50:54 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 30, 2013, 10:48:43 PM
I also installed a rear brake rotor on the '97.
I installed a set of replacement front rotors on the '95 last weekend as I was putting it back together.
Post by: Grim on July 01, 2013, 02:02:06 PM
So this weeks project was to do spline lubs.
Little background Bought my 95 1100LT a few months ago. It has been neglected for the last 10 years. Slowly going through the bike getting it back 100%. ABS lights were on and I took a chance that it was just the common tripped light from a low battery. Wouldnt reset so I started digging deeper and found the main harness to the ECM had the grounds burnt up and the plug into the ECM is also burnt up at the grounds. $2700 bike....I'll live without the ABS and I have been riding it. I also had an intermittent run problem that went away when I cleaned the Motronic connector.
So today I start pulling things apart to do the splines and finding more issues. The check valve on the tank valve was broken off so it was creating a vacuum leak. Explains the high idle. No big deal I already have the Air accumulator cup as I was going to plug that.
Get the tank off and there's a pin hole leak at a weld for the tab on the side of the tank. No big deal there is a shop up the road that makes aluminum fuel tanks for hot rods. He should be able to take care of that and its far enough from the visible painted part of the tank that there should be no damage to the paint.
Pull the ecm and battery and I find the MAIN ground coming from the battery is not connected. Its just laying there behind the starter mounting bolt it should be attached too. The other starter bolt is not even there. Now the 8 gauge (maybe 6g) Ground comes off the battery goes to a lug at the starter and has two 10 gauge pig tails that one goes to the ABS Servo and the other to the main ground lug on the frame under the tank.
SO SOME HACK! :twak: left this stuff loose. The bike has been pulling its starter groudn the the ABS and the frame. Explains the cooked ABS harness. So its officially dead to the point Id have to replace the ECM, Servo, harness and Brain to make it work correctly. :grimreaper:
So I wasn't planning to gut that stuff yet but I may go ahead and do so this week. I'm going to bend up a couple short lines to bypass the Servo and pull that mess out. I'll make a small box to sit in its vacant spot for storage of tools and maybe quart of oil
Post by: billday on July 01, 2013, 10:40:51 PM
Post by: Little Red on July 03, 2013, 10:19:44 AM
Post by: healthy on July 03, 2013, 11:38:05 AM
i use 2x4s to break the bead (levered under something like a car or a fence) and a couple of tire irons + soap to fit the tire. 2nd one was much easier than the first one, and i think i have room to get better next time too.
Post by: Grim on July 03, 2013, 12:44:50 PM
I decided to figure out how to do it myself when i realized anywhere in Chicago would be asking for more than the tires cost me on amazon.Just a FYI.
i use 2x4s to break the bead (levered under something like a car or a fence) and a couple of tire irons + soap to fit the tire. 2nd one was much easier than the first one, and i think i have room to get better next time too.
I'm an extreme DIYer. I rebuild the transmissions on my cars. That said..wheels just piss me off. Ive doen some 33's and it was NO fun. I found a cheaper way (not as cheap as buying the tire irons) but not free.
Check with automotive tire stores that sell high end mag wheels. If they can do the expensive wheels on cars they can do a motorcycle wheel. They need to have a "Bead clamp machine". Same shop that did my reverse mount 17s on my hot rod did my motor cycle for $10 a wheel. They of course cant balance them so I bought the $40 Harbor freight ballancer. Saved $20 this go round over the local motorcycle shops price. Already had a bud pitch in $10 on the ballancer after he used the same wheel shop. So he saved $20 and I've saved another $10.
Post by: Grim on July 03, 2013, 12:55:41 PM
Seemed like Monday and Tuesday Id get in 1-2 hours of work then chase tools/parts for 2 hours rinse and repeat. I'm also scrapping the ABS (see previous post) so had to get some lines made and I found a hairline crack in my tank so had to find a place to fix that.
With the Monson that has been predicted I kind of jammed myself into a small space in my shop. My 1970 Pontiac Convertible Only had the top put up once a year for the last 17 (late Nov early Dec) so I wasn't about to change that so it became BMW parts storage device.
Used a movers Dolly with some cribbing to aid in removing the transmission. Made it easy.
So today I got the transmission off.....
Grease....what is this grease thing you speak of because BMW apparently has never heard about it. Bike has 46k and I dont think its ever been apart. These parts have not been clean yet. WTF? :dunno
Post by: johnny on July 03, 2013, 05:13:44 PM
j o
Post by: WayneDW on July 03, 2013, 05:52:50 PM
New tires for the K75. I went with bridgestones and like them so far but still scuffing them in. Local dealer charged $90 to mount and balance new tires, I removed the wheels and furnished the tires. Seem excessive? How many use a Harbor freight or other changer and do their own?Shop around. Find a little bike repair shop who's owner is a little hungry. You don't say where you are located but around here the cost is $20-$40 each.
Post by: roninvt on July 03, 2013, 10:00:35 PM
Post by: Grim on July 03, 2013, 10:51:45 PM
those are some looking good splines...I bet you say that to all the K Riders. ;)
j o
After seeing how bone dry they are I'm relieved. The dive shaft and input shaft look good. The clutch splines are a little worn so in 20k ill just throw a new disc in if I still have it.
Post by: pallum on July 04, 2013, 03:08:57 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/2a0DgNPl.jpg)
...When the brick finally gave in from my punishment
(http://i.imgur.com/z1ht9DAl.jpg)
That shock has 60,000 miles plus whatever the PO put on it before me-- I'm surprised it's held with me this far. New one on order :musicboohoo:
Post by: grant71 on July 04, 2013, 04:27:07 AM
Post by: johnny on July 04, 2013, 08:34:54 AM
thanks for the photo...
j o
Post by: pallum on July 04, 2013, 02:56:55 PM
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL PHOTO OF MT ADAMS. ISEE FROM MY OLD MAP THAT FRANKLIN IS ABOUT 15 MILES SOUTH OF NASHVILLE. WHERE EXACTLY IS MT. ADAMS?
Mt. Adams is over in Washington state, other side of America! Glad I'm here and not home in Tennessee though, the weather is too nice here!
Post by: vintagemilano on July 05, 2013, 04:15:16 PM
ABS light reset
TPS reset
Choke cable rigging
Throttle gear clean and lube
Engine oil and filter change
Ignition timing with strobe
Spline Lube with honda moly 60
During the above discovered the splines were missing so got a final drive and driveshaft off Ebay
New rear shock
Idle mixture set with fuel tank removal
build manometer
syn throttle air bypass screws
Clean battery ground
Change trans oil
Change fork oil
Dismantle instrument cluster to repair no speedo
Clean and protect main L-jet connector
Test coolant temp sensor with airbox removal
New side luggage hinges
Post by: Grim on July 06, 2013, 12:47:49 PM
Only problem that I can see is that now I have to tear apart a perfectly good set of forks to install fork boots. Anybody have the OEM stock # for the boots?
Why? instead of removing the fork lowers and ruin a set of seals, remove the entire fork out of the upper/lower tree's and put the boots on.
May be a little more work, but saves you more trouble and $.
As far as the boots themselves, get yourself a set or Rancho 1952's. You may be able to find them at your local parts store or Amazon has them for less than $5 each.
Picked the Seal Mate up last week. Had my bike apart all week doing other work and wraping it up today now that my tank is back from the welder.
Just tried the Seal Mate and looking good so far! :2thumbup:
First couple times I was still getting a ring. Took about 6-7 tries and it finally started give a clean swipe when I jounced it. The key is drying the fork and jouncing a few times so that it grabs the seals and flips them straight if the seal mate rolls it a little. Mine was leaking bad enough it was running down the fork and all over the caliper on long rides.
Give it a week or two and see how it does and then change the fork juice if it looks leak free then.
Post by: Grim on July 06, 2013, 01:02:25 PM
Got hairline crack in tank welded
Drive shaft spline lubed
Clutch Splines lube
Fried ABS removed and brakes plumbed without it and the associated plumbing.
Air Accumulator cup mod
Proper Johnny blanket
Remove flap and installing a dip stick in fuel tank so you can get consistent fills.
Making glove box braces (will get done this afternoon).
OHHHHHH MY GOD I about crashed it on the test ride. Back brake sucked with the non functioning ABS servo in it. I had bled it multiple times and just had no rear brake to speak of. It would hold it on a hill at lights but hardly felt it when stopping. Seemed like a lot of peddle travel.
Testing the brakes in the hood I all of a sudden got a weird feeling I NEVER felt on it before as the rear end washed out. The back wheel locked and started stepping out. Nice full handle of brakes up front. Going to have to get use to it all over again.
Gas cap mod. That Unleaded flap was pissing me off. It made it impossible to get a consistent tank fill. I'[m sort of anal about checking MPG each tank. and using the trip as a gas gauge of sorts.
I removed the whole flap assembly and made a "dip stick" that I could fill too so I could get the same fuel in it every time. I just bent a piece of aluminum to let me fill 1.5 inches below the cap. That seems to be about the point where I believe is the tank vent has about 1/2in under it.
Couple pictures so you can see what I did it you want to copy it.
Post by: johnny on July 07, 2013, 05:20:03 PM
lotts o stopping... gotts the rear brake pulse... i could see the line pulsating... so i gotts out my bag of goodies and installed a new blue stainless gafler line...
pushed out the 1 year old goo fluid and pushed in some new... 100% yeeeehaaaa now...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130707_155037_zps46f47adf.jpg)
j o
Post by: CRASH on July 08, 2013, 02:11:11 PM
Post by: johnny on July 08, 2013, 06:41:16 PM
this is black brake fluid from the abs unit... i bled the brakes 2 days ago at the wheels... i decided i better bleed the abs units... although i bled them last summer...
this is what riding 3 weeks in the summer and being stored in a unairconditioned unheated garage for 49 weeks...
yep... its black... not kinda black... absolutely black...
front abs...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_142427_zpse7a703a9.jpg)
rear abs...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_143007_zps63da11b5.jpg)
took about a half a bottle to get both to run clear...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_142820_zpsf71017c1.jpg)
honda suspension fluid...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_153054_zpsa73fd984.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_150405_zps274a6d59.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_151054_zpse85bc84a.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Note2/20130708_153155_zps5d8fe010.jpg)
ready for some motodebauchery...
j o
Post by: K75RT Keith on July 11, 2013, 02:32:49 AM
So much for riding to Salem. Today is a -10 on the scale.
Post by: roninvt on July 11, 2013, 08:18:22 PM
Post by: BexarWolf on July 11, 2013, 11:19:26 PM
Replaced a leaking shift adjuster boot and clamp
Replaced antifreeze
Oil/Oil filter
2 c-clips on the clutch lever pin
8 new exhaust flange nuts
Greased the center stand
Replaced the side stand bolt, bushing and grease zert
Tomorrow I inspect for leaks and then give her a bath.
Post by: Liverpool Brick on July 14, 2013, 04:35:33 AM
Post by: Kyle10 on July 15, 2013, 06:08:49 PM
This weekend the fairing goes to the body shop for paint.
A bit nervous about removing the timing chain cover. Made an indexing mark on the hall sensor, and it looks like I have to remove the radiator to get to the plug for it, then threading it out of the cover. Any noob can dismantle a bike; it's getting back together where the DIY disaster potential lies. And don't ask how I know that...
Post by: Lucas on July 17, 2013, 02:09:48 PM
Yesterday I replaced the brake fluid. It was gross. Amber colored and stringy. Took 32oz to flush to my satisfaction.
Post by: Lucas on July 19, 2013, 08:06:19 PM
Filter that came out was marked 10-31-2002 :nono
Post by: racinrich on July 21, 2013, 03:42:51 PM
Post by: roninvt on July 24, 2013, 10:01:16 PM
Post by: branandfox on August 01, 2013, 01:04:38 AM
Post by: Grim on August 01, 2013, 02:22:10 PM
Full spline lube, new rear rotor and brakes, new rear pirelli tire, all new rubber all over the bike, new k1100 fairing pieces installed with new mounts, new corbin seat and mounts, new fluids all around. Rear brakes bled and flushed with new brake fluid. New switches and dash pad. K1100 side and center stand painted and installed. New fuel filter. New spark plugs and wires. And best of all. Lots of beautiful georgia weTher to try out all the awsome gear I got for christmas. As johnny would say: lots of yeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaa's
Well I know you wanted to get a GA ride going but my frail ego will not be able to handle your bike looking so much better then my rather beat up bike.
J/K. Looking forward to seeing it after following your build on line.
Post by: rocket23 on August 03, 2013, 09:07:19 AM
Post by: johnny on August 04, 2013, 07:51:38 PM
so last week i drained the suspension fluid from the forks... i only got a shot glass oughtta the right fork... baffled...
i cleared the drain hole and pumped the forks... nothing... i got 120cc in before it was runneth over at the fill hole... baffled...
i pulled the drain plug and nothing... i pumped the forks and got about 100cc... baffled...
buttoned it up... rode the whitehead ride... leaked like a moe...
today... pulled the drain plug and got about 500cc oughtta there... pumped it all out... filled it up with honda ss8-10 suspension fluid... reset the seal to the tube... all is well again...
still dont know why i couldnt get the fluid out last week... freaky...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on August 04, 2013, 11:10:39 PM
Mounted a battery meter to the side of the relay box.
Post by: detbmw on August 05, 2013, 04:05:30 PM
K75S:
K75S Cushing to Central Heights (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai6S0fkMiZc#ws)
K75S Central Heights to FM 343/225 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6k_WfGdn7c#ws)
R1100RT:
R1100RT - Lake Nacogdoches to WalMart (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR8Hly07iwU#ws)
K75S:
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/camera%20and%20givi/K75Scamera_zps188251d0.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/camera%20and%20givi/K75Scamera2_zpse6007e26.jpg)
R1100RT:
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/camera%20and%20givi/RTcamera_zps204cad2e.jpg)
I also replaced my Givi top case on my R1100RT with a WalMart $3.50 upgrade. Not sure if I can make this work on my brick.
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/camera%20and%20givi/RTgivi_zps195b2274.jpg)
Turned out much better than my last upgrade attempt. My first try blocked the pinon seat.
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/camera%20and%20givi/RT-Pets_zps49d55945.jpg)
Post by: buzzard on August 08, 2013, 10:26:00 PM
Post by: oldfieldcycles on August 09, 2013, 08:02:20 AM
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rVd35fYnO-c/UgQys7sPyqI/AAAAAAAAD2M/53eqEGvx6bY/w524-h698-no/13+-+1)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b0rvoDwd7WI/UgQyjbAc_MI/AAAAAAAAD2E/bG-OT5BPYtg/w524-h698-no/13+-+1)
Post by: Sebsi on August 11, 2013, 04:09:45 PM
Seb
Post by: Grim on August 11, 2013, 06:05:08 PM
I wanted to 1+ Shooter's comment about replacing the rubber grommet/bushing that supports the exhaust behind the left foot peg. I was getting an occasionally knock over bumps and discovered the exhaust was a bit loose and the rubber bushing was gone. It was a bitch to replace, but dramatically smoothed out the bike at 4500+ rpms. And the knock's gone, of course.
Seb
There is a second mount you might want to check. It's off the right side off the center stand mount. Either mount failing can lead to cracks in the exhaust system where the 4 pipes join the main body of the exhaust.
Post by: roninvt on August 11, 2013, 07:04:33 PM
Post by: WayneDW on August 11, 2013, 08:08:25 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=494.msg13707#msg13707 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=494.msg13707#msg13707)
Now I have one less key on my key ring. Thanks Motobrick!
Post by: k kid on August 14, 2013, 06:16:10 PM
Untouched since 1974 I guess. It jammed on last week.
It was a pig getting the new boot back on with the 'red rubber grease'
Can't figure out the 2mm tolerance at the microswitch though !
Post by: Sebsi on August 15, 2013, 09:55:44 PM
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a611/sebsi23/lonelyback_zpsef9cd867.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/sebsi23/media/lonelyback_zpsef9cd867.jpg.html)
East of Tonopah, NV, en route to Great Basin Nat'l Park.
Post by: johnny on August 18, 2013, 05:49:11 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/whatdidudid_zps45e5358e.jpg)
j o
Post by: drut on August 22, 2013, 03:47:12 PM
Post by: Red on August 24, 2013, 07:09:11 PM
Post by: Opus on August 28, 2013, 06:10:19 PM
Reinstated my wide angle mirrors on the wind screen.
I like them better up high so I can just look over and see what going on.
Post by: mystic red on August 28, 2013, 09:15:52 PM
Post by: Opus on August 29, 2013, 02:05:27 AM
3M Molding Tape.
The Heavy Duty Stuff.
Strong and water proof.
After placing the mirrors I used some clamps to keep them in place until the tape was seated good.
I have used it before and it works really well when you want to mount something without drilling or gluing.
It is easy to remove if needed also.
Post by: mystic red on August 30, 2013, 07:57:59 PM
Post by: Oma Aika on September 01, 2013, 10:52:24 AM
Old one:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zVuOHEQsHHQ/UiNNLuKFaDI/AAAAAAAAKv4/kFEIyFsx4MI/w450-h800-no/WP_20130901_16_47_31_Pro.jpg)
New is brighter, too:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NCfbl0ouSks/UiNNMLMrglI/AAAAAAAAKv8/uUhQHAg0t9Y/w1421-h800-no/WP_20130901_16_49_19_Pro.jpg)
I wrote a short update on my blog: how to get a navigator on an old motorbike - cheap!
http://www.vanhamoto.net/2012/05/navigaattori-vanhaan-moottoripyoraan.html (http://www.vanhamoto.net/2012/05/navigaattori-vanhaan-moottoripyoraan.html)
Post by: racinrich on September 01, 2013, 06:57:00 PM
Post by: mystic red on September 01, 2013, 09:14:43 PM
Post by: Grim on September 03, 2013, 03:41:25 PM
When I got home I noticed a bit of water in the saddle bags (again). Thinking the seals were not sealing. Also notice that one of the latches is floppy. On further investigation it seems some knuckle dragging halfwit paint sniffing body shop guy that the PO bragged on the "great job he did fixing the damage from dropping the bike and repainting the saddle bags" (not really) decided to use tech screws instead of rivets to reattach the latches. The screws funneled water around the top latches right into the case. This of course also wallowed out the 1/8 holes in the latch so now 1/8 rivets will not work. :bang-head:
So I assume at one point there was a gasket under the top latch to keep water from running into the case. I used a little RTV instead. Since the holes would no longer hold a 1/8 pop rivet I drilled them up to the next size of 5/32.
No more floppy feeling latches and hopefully that will fix my leaks. Let the RTV dry and give it a bath in a bit to see.
Post by: Opus on September 06, 2013, 04:03:10 PM
So I order from A-zon a set of Kuryakyn 6341 Grips, 3618 Thottle Boss, 6339 Bar Ends and a set of 7980 Longhorn Offset Dually HWY Pegs.
Removed the old grips and pegs and cleaned up the bar and did a touch up paint on the engine guards to cover scratches.
I got everything but the bar ends in last night and will install them tomorrow when they get here.
All in all it took me about 2 hrs. to do including prep & cleanup.
Update:
Well USPS got my Bar Ends here and I have installed them.
After installing the bar hardly moves at all.
Think I'm going to like this....
Post by: TimTyler on September 09, 2013, 08:07:27 PM
Damned grub screw had loosened so it needed to be done. 10k miles since the last one anyway. Lots of fun miles this summer!
Post by: mystic red on September 10, 2013, 10:15:09 AM
Post by: Opus on September 10, 2013, 03:57:56 PM
Opus.... you will like those Highway pegs. ... same as mine. .. full range of adjustment. What are those grips?
Thanks Mystic! Can't wait to try them out on a long run.
The Grips are Kuryakyn GLOSS BLACK ISO-GRIPS (PN:6341 Universal for 7/8" Handlebars) I added the Throttle Boss (PN:6318) & Weighted Bar Ends (PN:6339).
I could tell l right off that they helped with the handle bars. I use to be able to feel the shaking a lot at idle, now they are smooth as silk.
I did have to tape & glue the left grip in place because it was a little loose but it was nothing to do.
I had the foam type that the P.O. had put on and they were killing my hands after only 15 to 20 min. of riding.
I talked to a few others that had the Kuryakyns and they swore by them so I'm giving the a try.
Post by: argent brick on September 16, 2013, 03:26:53 AM
My fuel economy has never been good with this bike. Could this be the reason? Maybe it will start getting better mileage. I can hope!
Post by: zonenfeile on September 20, 2013, 01:19:32 AM
she´s dirty and has new vibrations from arround gearbox-> final drive
Post by: TimTyler on September 23, 2013, 10:11:27 PM
My steering has a little notch in the straight-ahead position. Time to replace the bearings.
I've been hesitant to tackle this. Watched the YouTubes, read the forums, and I didn't want to get half way through the job and not be able to finish in my driveway. But so far it's going well.
The outer races stuck in the frame were knocked out with a screwdriver from the inside with light duty hammer tapping.
I learned that the fluid block damper needs to come out through the top since there are welds in the way (steering lock) on the bottom.
The top inner race came off the top triple tree with a strong breeze. The lower inner race required cutting with a dremel tool, a blow torch (which i don't think made a difference) and some hammer whacking from below. This mangled the lower dust cap so I'm hoping the dealer has some in stock in the morning.
I bought the bearings a few weeks ago. The outer races are in the freezer now along with the cleaned steering tube / lower triple tree assembly. I also bought the Dow High Vacuum Grease that is recommended for the fluid block damper.
The hole in the steering tube where the steering lock slides into was a little bent and I needed to file it down to slide the old bearing off.
More tomorrow hopefully.
Post by: TimTyler on September 25, 2013, 12:01:12 PM
Smooth sailing throughout this job :)
I used the inverted old outer races to tap the new frozen races into the frame tube. Note that a visible gap remains under the top race even after it is fully seated. This had me concerned for a while until I discovered it was okay. The bottom race seats deeper into the frame tube.
The oven-warmed 300-degree lower inner bearing dropped easily onto the frozen lower triple-tree with a fresh dust seal, and I tapped it with a socket just to make sure.
Determining the proper torque for the steering tube on the bearings is tough, especially with the fluid block damper resistance. I thought about leaving the FBD uninstalled but, well, I had the fresh lube and all, so what the hell. I used a large pipe wrench on the big knurled steering nut until the un-forked triple trees felt rough to turn, then I backed off the nut a tiny bit. With the weight of the forks and wheel installed the front end turns much easier now.
Don't forget to leave the upper triple tree fork bolts loose when adjusting the bearing tightness. Then torque them down once the bearings are set.
Had to bleed the front brakes since the master cylinder was upside down for a day.
Goin' out for a ride in the sun later today.
Post by: billday on September 25, 2013, 09:54:11 PM
Great pics, brought back fond memories....
Post by: TimTyler on September 25, 2013, 09:56:38 PM
Steering is buttery smooth now. Can't wait for some twisties.
Post by: roninvt on September 28, 2013, 09:31:28 PM
Post by: mjydrafter on October 17, 2013, 09:44:00 PM
Fresh oil & filter, new coolant and a new oil pressure sensor.
:clap:
Post by: Grim on October 23, 2013, 09:01:41 PM
Buy it now $27 including shipping. Made it here today. Need to go get a bolt for the left one but put the throttle one on and it works perfect. No more numb hands after an hour on the slab. :D
Post by: drut on October 25, 2013, 03:18:50 PM
Post by: TimTyler on October 26, 2013, 08:56:20 PM
He reluctantly put in .25 airsoft bb's (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QNGOTY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003QNGOTY&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) per my request. 2oz in the rear, 1oz in the front.
I had to manipulate the hard brake line that loops over the front tire a bit so it would clear the wider rubber.
Post by: drut on November 05, 2013, 02:28:28 PM
Post by: argent brick on November 06, 2013, 12:26:08 PM
Post by: drut on November 06, 2013, 12:36:10 PM
"What color are you going to paint the bike?"
Hi:going to be Ford Frozen White with blue striping & black wheels.Would have liked to do original pearl but spraying in my garage 3 stage finish would probably pick up too much dust.
Post by: Opus on November 06, 2013, 09:42:33 PM
He reluctantly put in .25 airsoft bb's (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QNGOTY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003QNGOTY&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) per my request. 2oz in the rear, 1oz in the front.
Tim, pardon my lack of knowledge but why put .25 airsoft bb's in your tires?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Post by: Jeff Sichoe on November 06, 2013, 10:16:11 PM
He reluctantly put in .25 airsoft bb's (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QNGOTY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003QNGOTY&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) per my request. 2oz in the rear, 1oz in the front.
Tim, pardon my lack of knowledge but why put .25 airsoft bb's in your tires?
Inquiring minds want to know!
I don't want to put words in Tim's mouth, but perhaps it's some sort of 'self balancing' trick?
See here - http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-153959.html (http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-153959.html)
Post by: argent brick on November 07, 2013, 04:32:55 AM
"What color are you going to paint the bike?"
Hi:going to be Ford Frozen White with blue striping & black wheels.Would have liked to do original pearl but spraying in my garage 3 stage finish would probably pick up too much dust.
White is a great color for a K bike, one of my favorites. I have considered painting My K75 white or Ford's Screaming Yellow.
Post by: BexarWolf on November 08, 2013, 02:27:39 PM
Post by: drut on November 11, 2013, 01:26:27 PM
Post by: Motorhobo on November 15, 2013, 01:29:11 PM
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/PaintForkSliders.jpg)
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/PaintBrakeLever.jpg)
Post by: drut on November 15, 2013, 01:40:19 PM
"Painted the fork sliders on the '95 zombie K75 and did some touch-up on the brake lever assembly with Rustoleum black satin"
Looks like you got a nicely finished result:looks like a match to original :2thumbup:
Post by: Motorhobo on November 19, 2013, 08:52:38 AM
Quote
Looks like you got a nicely finished result:looks like a match to original
Yeah -- I'm very happy with the Rustoleum black satin match. Here's the painted slider next to my other K75 which was garaged and in good shape before I got it so the original finish is pretty intact.
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/RustoleumBlackSatinCompare.jpg)
I don't know how it'll hold up but it sure looks good now!
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/FrontWheelAfterRestore.jpg)
Here's right end of the front axle before and after treatment with wire wheel and Flitz:
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/FrontAxleCompare.jpg)
The only bummer in this whole thing has been the paint match I got from a Glasurit dealer...but that's the subject for a separate post.
Van
Post by: drut on November 30, 2013, 02:17:43 PM
Post by: roninvt on December 04, 2013, 06:34:52 PM
Test ride for an hour or so at 34 degrees--toasty!!
Post by: johnny on December 04, 2013, 08:09:11 PM
j o
Post by: roninvt on December 04, 2013, 11:35:42 PM
Post by: TS87KLT on December 08, 2013, 10:19:46 PM
Post by: argent brick on December 13, 2013, 12:22:36 AM
Post by: drut on December 13, 2013, 01:33:29 PM
Post by: drut on December 14, 2013, 03:34:53 PM
Post by: Opus on December 14, 2013, 06:53:17 PM
Post by: TS87KLT on December 15, 2013, 12:29:29 PM
Post by: mystic red on December 15, 2013, 12:51:22 PM
Post by: drut on December 15, 2013, 12:58:38 PM
Funnily enough I planned to paint them black but happened to see a photo of another K with white wheels.
Post by: snanny on December 16, 2013, 10:55:25 AM
Post by: CRASH on December 26, 2013, 08:21:59 PM
Post by: Grim on December 26, 2013, 08:47:36 PM
R+R Steering Bearings - Part I - Remove
My steering has a little notch in the straight-ahead position. Time to replace the bearings.
I've been hesitant to tackle this. Watched the YouTubes, read the forums, and I didn't want to get half way through the job and not be able to finish in my driveway. But so far it's going well.
The outer races stuck in the frame were knocked out with a screwdriver from the inside with light duty hammer tapping.
I learned that the fluid block damper needs to come out through the top since there are welds in the way (steering lock) on the bottom.
The top inner race came off the top triple tree with a strong breeze. The lower inner race required cutting with a dremel tool, a blow torch (which i don't think made a difference) and some hammer whacking from below. This mangled the lower dust cap so I'm hoping the dealer has some in stock in the morning.
I bought the bearings a few weeks ago. The outer races are in the freezer now along with the cleaned steering tube / lower triple tree assembly. I also bought the Dow High Vacuum Grease that is recommended for the fluid block damper.
The hole in the steering tube where the steering lock slides into was a little bent and I needed to file it down to slide the old bearing off.
More tomorrow hopefully.
Power Brake/ABS unit failed. $3000 for a part is a bit much to put into a bike with 100k on it. By passed it. No more ABS or Power Brakes, but it stops just fine, then I smelled something electrical. The pump motor in the unit would not shut off. If I by passed that unit electrically I lose my brake lights, speedo and cruise control. Lights I have to have, rewired those ... speedo is over rated and this bike is never going on another IBA ride again, so the cruise control can go too. This will get me by until I can decide what to by sometime in 2014. :falldown:
You might drop Chris Harris (YouTube) a line or look through his vids and see if he has posted anything. He has removed the power brakes on quite a few bikes. He had 3 P bikes in at one time around October removing all that junk.
Post by: CRASH on December 26, 2013, 10:46:40 PM
Post by: CRASH on December 27, 2013, 01:47:44 PM
Next time I have to pull the covers and tank off I will get in there and do a proper soldering job of the wiring mess I created as I experimented.
Post by: Grim on January 04, 2014, 10:43:44 PM
I hate people.
While that dripped I swapped bearings. I may need a new wheel. :dunno2:
The thin bearing about fell out. When I put new tires on the bike I noticed the bearing on one side felt rough. What apparently has been happening is it's been spinning the race in the wheel. When I went to install the skinny bearing was loose enough I pushed it in by hand with no difficulty. When I spun it the drag on the grease was enough to make the race spin in the hub. I made some shims out of a foil pan to get a good tight fit. Marked the wheel and bearing so I can check and see if it's spinning.
I've had a come and go shimmy on the hwy. I bet this was the cause. Try and get it out tomorrow if the weather holds and see if it's gone.
I've though about going to RS wheels and I guess I'll start looking. Hopefully this will make it till I wear the tire out.
Post by: TS87KLT on January 05, 2014, 07:13:19 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5231.msg33108#msg33108 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5231.msg33108#msg33108)
Post by: pallum on January 06, 2014, 06:34:42 AM
Post by: BeemerDrew on January 07, 2014, 09:59:51 PM
cheers
Andrew
Post by: Grim on January 07, 2014, 10:32:47 PM
Dropped it in this morning to the local BMW Dealer to get a full service done it. As I have only had it for a few weeks I felt it was a good idea to get all the fluids and filters changed. Also noticed that the right hand front fork seal is leaking and also the front master cylinder seems to be weeping a bit too. Yes, I know that I could do this stuff by myself, but just don't have the time these days. Turns out that both master cylinders need replacing as they are pitted. I was worried about the cooling system as it seems to get a bit hot in heavy traffic when it's a hot day (it's summer down here! 40 degree celcius temperatures are normal - not like what they are having in North America these days) but apparently that's normal. All up it's going to cost a bit to get the service and repairs done but at least the bike will be solid when I get it back. The previous owner didn't ride it all that much and I think that the lack of use is the main reason why the master cylinders have corroded.Before you spend the money on the fork seal you might want to locate a "seal mate". Quite a few of us have had good luck using that $5 gem to clean the seals including myself. I've got 1000 dry mile so far.
cheers
Andrew
Post by: BeemerDrew on January 12, 2014, 11:40:04 PM
Post by: subforry on January 13, 2014, 06:36:09 PM
Also added pinstripes to edge of front fender.
Post by: johnny on January 15, 2014, 12:33:18 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2012/Lior/002.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/001_zps6eb85137.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/005_zps123df979.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/006_zps3b59b935.jpg)
j o
Post by: staffordworks on January 15, 2014, 01:49:26 PM
Post by: Grim on January 15, 2014, 06:25:54 PM
fear of working with gas was overridden by fear of catching fire and blowing up as my cracked fuel line finally started weeping when I warmed it up, turned out to be a very easy fix. my greatest fear was undoing the line from the rail and having gas go everywhere but it was literally only a drop, tried following directions (why does that never work?) and found that actually just laying the tank over on its side on a box i could get at the tank end of the line, swapped them out, had some trouble figuring out which way the bend should go (old line looks like it wasn't stock so i couldnt use that as a guide. but a little wiggling and i was back in business. whew! in the process i came across mention of fork seal cleaner thinger, just a plastic slim jim basically dude says 99% of the time you dont have a cracked seal just dirt holding it open, going to give that a try before i drop $500 on replacing them but then i have to figure out how to evenly top them off (only one has been leaking but for a long time)
On the tank just remember to pop the cap before messing with the lines it relieve any pressure.
On the plastic thing aka "seal mate". Yep try it. It took care of my leaky seal and it's been dry for 1500 miles and counting.
Post by: staffordworks on January 16, 2014, 01:34:18 PM
Post by: drut on January 19, 2014, 07:36:14 AM
Post by: Grim on January 20, 2014, 09:29:46 PM
yep, I pulled the gas cap after i got that drip - no change, chances are because i dont have a really tight seal thanks to tape holding the back of the cap down (next purchase, lucky me i live in the ducks neck of the woods and he has one. then i have to try seal mate and figure out how to top off the forks, looks easy enough to get at the top of them but worried that will just cause it all to come apart, easier than it looks?I'd just change the fork juice. Quart is more the. Enough to do the job and under $10 from the dealer. Just did mine a couple weeks ago and it really made an improvement in ride.
It's very easy to do there is a drain plug at the bottom and the center Allen bolt on the top is you fill. Instructions and fill quantity is in the liebery forum.
Post by: ttown95LT on January 25, 2014, 05:54:57 PM
Post by: voodooskin on January 29, 2014, 02:45:41 AM
Let me just say as a newbie to moto tire changing this job SUCKS. But not sucky enough to override the inner FRUGAL since I figure I'll be using tires until I'm dead, the more tires the better. So I thought I'd best learn.
To do this job I acquired:
1) Harbor Freight (HF) portable tire changer
2) HF motorcycle tire adapter FPOS
3) mojoblocks for item (2)
4) mojobar
5) balancer from Mark Parnes (bmw specific)
Item (2), the stock threaded vertical leverage axle as shipped from HF is too large in diameter to go through the LT wheels. Fortunately a 2' hunk of threaded 0.75" stock bar from the hardware store mostly threads into the HF base (item 1) and fits through the LT wheels, w. threads wrapped in duct tape to protect das wheelage. Not a match made in heaven but it worked.
The HF stuff is what it is, it isn't elegant but mostly works and cost way less than you would expect, and now I have a large metal bar I can use to protect my valuable motorcycle from gangs of crack-addled cat ladies.
Kudos on the mojobar, I had no clue how much leverage is needed to do this job. This tool made it possible and, zero rim damage.
Kudos on the Mark Parnes balancer
No affiliation on the tools, credit where credit is due. Two tire changes and minus my life moments I'll be money ahead on the cost of the tools (ok, well, three tire changes…) :yes
Post by: mystic red on January 29, 2014, 01:19:11 PM
Post by: subforry on February 01, 2014, 09:46:37 PM
Post by: Elipten on February 02, 2014, 01:24:00 AM
Post by: johnny on February 02, 2014, 02:18:53 PM
scored a silverstar ultra h4 9003 bulb... already had ebc organic padds... did the deal... now ready for some more yeeehaaaaa...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMG_20140202_102023_zps6cotbtwa.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMG_20140202_101946_zpslqzx7sxh.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/IMG_20140202_101955_zpshzilbezi.jpg)
j o
Post by: johnny on February 04, 2014, 07:53:57 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_155038_zps19347422.jpg)
lior rebuilt my old final drive... now i have it as a spare... scored the parts new unused oem... $310 total... took abouts an hour... pays to have the right tools and the experience of doing these on r motos...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495161114_zpsacbfeb71.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495161141_zps4b1b7cf0.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_161032_zps0b92dec2.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_161718_zpsbc02686b.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495162340_zpsaadf2d96.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_164222_zpsf9e65c85.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_165539_zpsfb06c546.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_170338_zps14bfd4c7.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495171652_zps47d3f766.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495173446_zps715c9a6b.jpg)
j o
Post by: johnny on February 09, 2014, 01:38:12 PM
the workshop...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/013_zpse241c7c6.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/012_zps574c6776.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/001_zpsa0c2c30e.jpg)
made a sealmate outta a cascade ice water bottle... ive done this before with 100% success... this time pulled a substantial piece of sand outta my fork seal with my homemade sealmate...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/002_zps5b40cf2a.jpg)
donts wanna single droppage on the ground...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/003_zpsa234f78b.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/004_zpsf5ef3e83.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/005_zpsc1d793f1.jpg)
my suspension fluid injector is cracked... hummm...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/006_zps83121831.jpg)
so i made a funnel outta a solo water cup...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/007_zpsd4554fde.jpg)
had to take the top caps off to getts the funnel in there...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/009_zpsea44eb3e.jpg)
usually just count how many 30ml injectors i push in the forks... butts now i gotts no way to measure... so i borrowed a measuring cup from the vegan restaurant next door...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/008_zps63b55d81.jpg)
easy goes it...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/010_zps94952f90.jpg)
wrapped it up... no seal leakage... yawl...
j o
Post by: subforry on February 22, 2014, 09:28:41 PM
Post by: johnny on February 22, 2014, 09:42:07 PM
read about it here... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1466.0)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/14-02-22%20Moes/001_zpsc0932907.jpg)
j o
Post by: mack75 on February 24, 2014, 07:28:08 PM
Post by: voodooskin on March 02, 2014, 01:59:15 AM
Off with the OEM nibs. I had a panic when I thought I cross threaded one of the speed bleeders into the top of the ABS unit, I bet that's a costly mistake. Turns out it was just the cruft the speed bleeders put on the threads for some reason makes them feel like they're cross threaded, <whew>
(http://www.debmail.net/joe/images/uno.jpg)
The juice:
(http://www.debmail.net/joe/images/dos.jpg)
This was a failure. Worked to suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder, but the brake fluid must react with acrylic or lexan or whatever this thing is made from because 30 minutes later it was lying in ruins on my garage floor in shards:
(http://www.debmail.net/joe/images/tres.jpg)
Cyl had some kind of snot-like … snot on the walls of the cylinder. The cyl was installed new two years ago the last time the fluid was flushed. Maybe they're serious when they say flush the fluid every year (I let this slide a year). I didn't see this stuff anywhere other than the front master cylinder.
(http://www.debmail.net/joe/images/quatro.jpg)
New pads, got them from beemer boneyard. Not brave enough to try the $27 pads people are finding on ebay although who knows maybe they all come from the same factory. Maybe next time I'll try the cheaper pads. I liked these because they specifically said "make sure you have the Brembo brakes" which made me think they would fit my K.
(http://www.debmail.net/joe/images/cinco.jpg)
Post by: ruben on March 10, 2014, 08:51:52 AM
Great pic on those bearing changeout on the FD.
I'm about to perform that same task but only manage to get a "17 ball" bearing, instead of the "19 ball" bearing from the shop.
Will there be issue using the '17 ball' bearing?
Any advise on this, anyone??
swing arm bearing 104 thousand miles...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_155038_zps19347422.jpg)
lior rebuilt my old final drive... now i have it as a spare... scored the parts new unused oem... $310 total... took abouts an hour... pays to have the right tools and the experience of doing these on r motos...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495161114_zpsacbfeb71.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495161141_zps4b1b7cf0.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_161032_zps0b92dec2.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_161718_zpsbc02686b.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495162340_zpsaadf2d96.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_164222_zpsf9e65c85.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_165539_zpsfb06c546.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/20140204_170338_zps14bfd4c7.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495171652_zps47d3f766.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/2014/lior/2014020495173446_zps715c9a6b.jpg)
j o
Post by: johnny on March 10, 2014, 09:33:56 AM
welcome to motobrick.com...
dont know... some think going from 19 to 17 is the reason for the uptick in k + r 1150 + 1200 final drive failures...
i can tell you why mine failed... wore that f-er out... and it was 100% yeeeehaaaaaa....
j o
Post by: ruben on March 11, 2014, 09:19:06 AM
greetings ruben...
welcome to motobrick.com...
dont know... some think going from 19 to 17 is the reason for the uptick in k + r 1150 + 1200 final drive failures...
i can tell you why mine failed... wore that f-er out... and it was 100% yeeeehaaaaaa....
j o
Post by: TimTyler on March 11, 2014, 12:14:39 PM
Ordered some $26 heavy duty battery cables from Euromoto Electrics in Denver on Friday afternoon and received them in the mail Monday!
Removed the seat, tank, Jetronic and the battery. Popped the cover off the relay box and removed the starter relay. Disconnected the two stock cables from the starter relay and snipped them at the other ends near the connectors. There are a couple of little wires attached to the stock cables near the connectors on the other ends, so I'll leave the connectors and just connect them in parallel with the news cables.
I hadn't noticed before but the stock cables to and from the starter relay are not very heavy duty. Maybe 10 gauge? Replacements are 4 gauge, the same as the stock grounding cable that connects the battery to the transmission housing. I've had problems with my starter relay locking up at odd times over the last couple of years, so these new cables will ensure enough juice reaches the starter and will hopefully solve the relay problem.
Attached the L-shaped ends of the new cables to the starter relay and fed them through the rubber sleeve which I temporarily removed from the bottom of the relay box. I marked the battery-side end of the cable that connects to the relay with a + since it's just black. Red electrical tape would have been better. Had to widen the rubber sleeve a bit with a razor knife to accommodate the thicker cables. Re-installed the relay, the rubber sleeve, and closed-up the relay box. Re-installed the battery.
Connected the other ends of the cables to the battery positive terminal and starter relay. (Also connected the old connectors to the battery and starter relay since they're still feeding something through those little wires). Replaced the ground cable to the transmission housing with the new cable. Replaced the Jetronic and fuel tank. Bike fired right up. Replaced seat.
Expecting real sun today so time for a ride.
Post by: johnny on March 14, 2014, 12:02:16 PM
too much straightlining...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140309_092423_zpsv9pwzs1t.jpg) (http://s236.photobucket.com/user/owrstrich/media/1Cell14/IMG_20140309_092423_zpsv9pwzs1t.jpg.html)
j o
Post by: drut on March 14, 2014, 04:06:29 PM
"too much straightlining..."
Maybe,but by the look of that tire you don't spare it in the twisties either...
Post by: WayneDW on March 16, 2014, 09:41:42 PM
Post by: Mongrel on March 18, 2014, 12:04:25 AM
Done today:
- Oil change (that, I do every year - usually when I put the bike away)
- Coolant flush
- Fuel filter change
- Removed the seat to take it and get it recovered.
Lots left to do, but it was a fair start.
Still on the list (some I want to do right away, some just "this spring"):
- Put seat back on (lol)
- Brake fluid change
- Final drive & transmission fluid change
- Cable spot lubrication/cable check
- Fill centre stand with expanding foam
- Air filter check & replacement
- Gas tank rubber grommet replacement
- Try (again) to diagnose slightly wonky headlight (this one's confounded several people)
- Spline lube (got to wait for warm weather to borrow a spot to do this - can't do it at my apartment)
Post by: subforry on March 19, 2014, 01:49:04 PM
Also reduced the Hagon rear shock pre-load by 5mm. Overall increased the static sag. Feels a little softer and sits lower.
Post by: healthy on March 19, 2014, 02:45:36 PM
I'm moving from my '86 K75 with ~140k miles to a '96 K75 with ~13k.
need to take it through it's paces and start my list of what needs to be tackled on the new bike. besides the normal oil/fluid changes and inspections i'm going to have to re-add heated grips, headlight relays, etc.
still not sure if i dig the low seat or not. i guess time and miles will tell.
(http://i.imgur.com/rSedc3u.jpg)
All in all i'm pretty happy
Post by: frodef on March 21, 2014, 08:00:23 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6817788/IMG_20140320_184922.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6817788/IMG_20140317_205948.jpg)
When pulling the bike out from winter storage I managed to drop it and scratch the tank, and to twist off one of the mirror bolts that somehow had rusted stuck over the winter. :musicboohoo: Should make for some nice welding practice.
Post by: frodef on March 22, 2014, 04:40:02 PM
Post by: roninvt on March 22, 2014, 08:31:13 PM
Post by: tg4360 on March 23, 2014, 12:05:29 PM
Post by: Rightsideup on March 26, 2014, 03:46:31 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/27/yjajevu3.jpg)
Post by: TimTyler on March 26, 2014, 04:00:40 PM
Which rack is holding those tragkorbs onto your bike?
Post by: Red on March 29, 2014, 01:09:32 AM
Post by: Opus on March 29, 2014, 02:42:06 PM
Tonight I'm on Max's BMW motorcycle parts list and the vent hose (part # 11151461834) is going for $76.00 :mbird New clamps will run about $9.00. Anybody have experience and sugg for alternative hoses/pricing? After the first 100 mile shake out ride, it appears that the bike is running great and no leaks ... (knock on wood). :riding:
Before you buy the one from Max, you may want to check at a few auto-parts stores to see if you can get the hose and clamps there. Most times they have hoses by the foot and costs a lot less.
Clamps can be as little as $0.99 per clamp. Just make sure the hose is rated for the application.
Just my 2 cents...
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 30, 2014, 10:13:57 PM
Post by: TimTyler on March 31, 2014, 01:31:33 AM
It was not a large adjustment, maybe a 1/3-turn on the left screw and 1/5 turn on the right. Hardest part was getting an 8mm wrench in for the left lock nut. Balanced the throttle bodies too. The engine runs smooth as butter. I find it remarkable that a bike this old with this many miles can still purr.
Found a tiny watery drip from the front weep hole though, so a new water/oil pump is in my future. Checked the coolant level and it's still topped off at the radiator cap.
Post by: frodef on April 02, 2014, 12:43:02 PM
Post by: tg4360 on April 03, 2014, 03:22:37 AM
I got the bags for a song on Ebay but no brackets.
I found Jesse type latches and the rubber bumpers they use at mcmastercar.com.
Post by: TaosBrick on April 07, 2014, 09:45:34 AM
Change out 75w90 Gear oil for 75w140, add Gaurd Dog Moly.
Change Engine Earl - Mobil1 15w50
Finally Fix right grip heater. Simple - wire had merely fallen out of connector under tank.
Install "Hand Fairings" (grip guards) purchased ¢heep from bike bandit. between these grip heaters and heated vest, I'm good to go down into the 20's
Bring on Spring!
Post by: voodooskin on April 08, 2014, 12:04:06 AM
- replaced all radiator hoses, and the "lock" (in bmwspeak) is the radiator 'cap' here in the USA
- installed "the cup", finally had it with drain/overflow hoses of all kinds from fuel tank
- new headlight bulb
I think/hope I'm ready for my ride to and from the colorado 1000 in June:
http://www.bmwmcc.org/colorado_classic_1000.php (http://www.bmwmcc.org/colorado_classic_1000.php)
One niggling doubt: I can always hear the fuel pump running, particularly when the tank is low but even when not. At 36K and 17 years, the question is whether this thing can go one more season, I'd hate to find out on the road. Bike is running fine, but no idea how these things fail. First world problem I know … :bmwsmile
Post by: johnny on April 08, 2014, 12:26:22 AM
can always carry a spare pump... that way you can stop your freaking and commence to motobricking...
j o
Post by: Elipten on April 08, 2014, 07:35:45 AM
Post by: frodef on April 08, 2014, 08:20:58 AM
Anyhow, yesterday I got it welded back together, repainted and reinstalled. I tried to put some "shims" under the givi plate to block the rocking effect.
Post by: Snowy on April 08, 2014, 03:44:35 PM
One niggling doubt: I can always hear the fuel pump running, particularly when the tank is low but even when not. At 36K and 17 years, the question is whether this thing can go one more season, I'd hate to find out on the road. Bike is running fine, but no idea how these things fail. First world problem I know … :bmwsmile
Assuming US bikes are the same as UK bikes, there's a sock filter on the pump itself - you have to remove the pump to get to it. I had issues with the pump being very noisy all the time and found that filter was very clogged up. New one of those and the pump is now running very quietly all the time.
Post by: Motorhobo on April 09, 2014, 06:21:51 PM
(http://www.vanalbert.com/IMAGES/94K75Maintenance.JPG)
Post by: TimTyler on April 11, 2014, 11:25:36 PM
I noticed I was only getting about 38mpg on the Twisty Bovine ride (albeit I was pushing the bike hard pretty much the whole time) and it's been a couple of years and 28k miles since my last valve check, so time to feel the gaps which ended up all being about 0.15mm. I lost about 0.15mm on all three cylinders.
My nearby Kawasaki dealer had brand new 29mm shims for $6 (when trading in the old ones) so in they went. Discovered that my Police crash bars make removing and replacing the valve cover a bit of a pain. Doable, but a tight fit.
Old shims: 2.30 / 2.35 / 2.40
New shims: 2.15 / 2.20 / 2.25
BMW apparently only makes shims down to 2.00mm so at this rate (2000 miles / 0.01mm) I've probably got about another 40k miles before I reach the minimum gap spec (0.25mm) with a 2.00mm shim. I should also probably re-shim the valves once a year for the best performance.
Post by: TaosBrick on April 12, 2014, 10:13:49 AM
Valve Check and Shim Adjustment
BMW apparently only makes shims down to 2.00mm so at this rate (2000 miles / 0.01mm) I've probably got about another 40k miles before I reach the minimum gap spec (0.25mm) with a 2.00mm shim. I should also probably re-shim the valves once a year for the best performance.
Have long been wondering in the "universal" shim kits offered by many online suppliers would contain what is required for our Bricks. I know I will find myself working on other makes and models, so the idea of having a big 'ol box of assorted shims is appealing.
Post by: Grim on April 13, 2014, 10:03:26 AM
Yesterday helped on a blood drive. Today is gone already. Need to make a trip to a store that opens at 11 (for camping related gear that will get used with the bike though :2thumbup:). Yard work this afternoon do to the Rapidly approaching summer burn ban, cause me burning branches on the weekend is apparently making smog 20 miles south of me in Atlanta M-F. :dunno
Then they complain about full land fills if I put it on the curb. So today I will finish that up and hopefully free up next weekend for the twisties. With some luck I can spend a little time with the bike this evening.
Post by: K75RT Keith on April 13, 2014, 10:18:43 AM
Got the brush set to rebuild the 50 amp RTP alternator I picked up for $25. It works now, but the brush set cost me $10 so I'll replace them before the 32 to 50 conversion
Started the Lay out for the bracket to hold my new CATZ driving lights under the RT fairing
Post by: F14CRAZY on April 13, 2014, 12:25:28 PM
Today I picked up a cheap cover from Advance auto parts and put it on...fits just about perfectly. The fiance and I are apartment dwellers but she's going to get a carport for the bike next week. Someday I'll have a garage again
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/q79/s720x720/10255102_10104808840057794_6722454068889160396_n.jpg)
Post by: Elipten on April 13, 2014, 07:59:34 PM
Post by: Motorhobo on April 14, 2014, 07:35:38 AM
Intake: Old = 2.6/2.6/2.6 New = 2.55/2.55/2.55
Exhaust: Old = 2.55/2.55/2.55 New = 2.5/2.45/2.45.
Replaced valve cover using new bushings. Pulled the radiator to get to the fan motor which was not hand-spinning freely and making a clicking sound. One of the brushes fell off as soon as I touched it. Ordered a new fan motor from Beemerboneyard. Measured clutch disk, replaced clutch pack using new clutch bolts and washers, lubed clutch splines.
Suffering from the 'while-I'm-at-it' syndrome...might as well take off the air box cover and inspect the fuel regulator hoses.
Post by: tg4360 on April 14, 2014, 10:04:44 AM
If my bike were still a street only, I'd be jonesing for one in the worst way..... or perhaps I need another brick... the madness continues.....
TG
Post by: vintagemilano on April 14, 2014, 02:11:41 PM
Post by: TaosBrick on April 14, 2014, 11:03:53 PM
That Pichler is the bomb.
Second that. Usually not much on fairings, but that is exceptional.
Post by: branandfox on April 15, 2014, 04:52:01 PM
Post by: drut on April 16, 2014, 03:19:40 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on April 16, 2014, 10:03:07 PM
Post by: roninvt on April 18, 2014, 10:29:14 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on April 19, 2014, 07:11:18 PM
I gave it a good wash for the first time today. I used some Purple Power to do a little de-greasing (fortunately no active leaks, except for my Progressive rear shock that began to weep this week). I would not suggest using it on bare aluminum because it seems to be slightly corrosive after a few minutes...not like it was burning a hole in it but left it looking a little different (wasn't a disaster or anything on the bike :2thumbup:)
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/v/t1.0-9/q79/s720x720/10176224_10152325961357908_5036876211418918188_n.jpg?oh=e169efc2ee419752fc5be8539bf52e19&oe=53BDB391)
Previous owner cracked the fairing and its got a rear drum but hey I still love this view on K's. Anyone else notice how a Monolever with a drum brake looks like a Paralever?
Post by: Scott_ on April 19, 2014, 09:01:38 PM
Both bikes, coolant, oils, and a battery in the '95.
Tomorrow comes the brake fluid flush.
Spent more time trying to reset my fuel+ system only to find a broken wire at the battery connection, and created an abs fault in the process...... more time to diagnose and reset.
Done for tonight. Time for some M*A*S*H and a beer or 2. :2thumbup:
Post by: WayneDW on April 20, 2014, 11:45:30 PM
I was hoping for a blue a little closer to my bike's blue, but oh well...
Post by: vintagemilano on April 24, 2014, 06:29:53 PM
Post by: Zipster on April 25, 2014, 07:12:34 PM
I also created a new phone mount by adapting a mirror mount 1" ball and bolting it to the dash. Now my phone which is also my sat nav is in a better position.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/26/etugy9yv.jpg)
Post by: Zipster on April 26, 2014, 01:22:21 PM
Post by: drut on April 26, 2014, 01:30:56 PM
Looks like I'm gonna need to investigate my master cylinder further as I'm still getting brake fluid leaking. On the plus side, the phone mount is just about perfect!
I fitted a seal kit to my master cylinder(Magura 20mm) but still leaked slightly,ended up fitting new cylinder.
Post by: voodooskin on April 28, 2014, 01:18:10 AM
Post by: Zampano on April 28, 2014, 10:57:05 PM
Over the past few days I have managed to:
- remove/clean tank
- soak fuel pump and run submerged in a container of techron
- install new damper & reinstall
- change fuel / air filter
- get injectors serviced by mr. injector and back on without incident
- pull final drive and lube splines (couldn't get to front of driveshaft)
- change final drive oil
- change transmission oil
- get new rear tire on.
- drink innumerable $1.69 25 oz cans of Rolling Rock
Still need to get a hose on the fuel filter strainer. Two auto stores had no submersible hose, so any mice in the tank could be sucked up by the filter. Cest la vie. Could that affect how it runs? Does that upper aluminum tube do anything?
Also need to balance throttle bodies. Either with my homemade contraption or an actual carbtune esque device. Anyone in san diego with one? There are two bottles of green flash in it for you... (the other two are mine.)
Also need get the tire put on and balanced again; this time rotating in the right direction. I have had a front tire mounted incorrectly at the dealer and now my rear mounted backwards at another shop. And they come with arrows on them. Just goes to show you that whether you are in "the sticks" or a "nice city", there are folks everywhere who just want to finish the day and get home. You cannot assume a thing about any work except your own.
I have a strong feeling I will be changing the water/oil pump seal plus/minus the timing chain guides (i've been told these can be ignored but the rattling is driving me bonkers.) By the time that is fixed the tranny will give out or the rear seal will explode. In the meantime we keep on riding it.
thanks again for the help here!!
Post by: drut on April 29, 2014, 03:22:17 PM
Post by: TaosBrick on April 29, 2014, 09:10:45 PM
So today I slapped that puppy on Chile Red. Tomorrow, I ride from Taos, NM to Nashville TN. And... some months from now I will mount me some Radials!
Post by: TimTyler on May 01, 2014, 01:57:25 AM
Valve Check and Shim Adjustment
I noticed I was only getting about 38mpg on the Twisty Bovine ride....
Following up on this. I'm getting 44mpg now. Valves in spec is a good thing.
Post by: F14CRAZY on May 03, 2014, 07:26:56 PM
Post by: roninvt on May 03, 2014, 10:28:21 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 04, 2014, 01:01:08 AM
Post by: Glacial on May 04, 2014, 05:49:15 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 04, 2014, 10:33:34 PM
Post by: Zampano on May 05, 2014, 06:24:23 AM
i attempted to adjust throttle bodies with my roman engineered makeshift sync tool. #3 was little high in vid. Eventually got them steady and even. Tach needle at idle much more steady. Engine sounds feels about the same.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/5fBoW3V1FDE (http://www.youtube.com/embed/5fBoW3V1FDE)
The tire change was biggest improvement yet. BT-45. Feels like a different bike. I should have dumped that balding one earlier but was being cheap.
1st/2nd shifting still dodgy. Some whirring that feels like it is originating in the tranny but who knows. Had a cali highway 2 a.m. ride and it was mostly solid at 80 mph (warp speed.) Some vibration in footpegs. A little more on the right (could that be alternator bushings?)
2 cent = I think a better windscreen would top my list. Too much buffeting. Ducking under and the ride is a different feel altogether. Does the lip add-on raise the pocket enough? Not a lot of options for a K75s.
Post by: Motorhobo on May 05, 2014, 08:18:56 AM
Love the Givi -- have it one on K75 and the OEM top case on the other one -- the OEM case is falling apart and doesn't fit much. Givi better but IMO doesn't look as good. Also -- dumbass installer drilled an extra hole in the cowl for the Givi -that's gonna be a PITA to fix and paint-match. So if anybody's considering a Givi -- measure twice drill once.
Post by: Red on May 09, 2014, 03:28:54 AM
Post by: roninvt on May 10, 2014, 09:29:31 PM
Post by: WayneDW on May 11, 2014, 06:52:09 PM
Post by: TimTyler on May 11, 2014, 07:20:40 PM
Post by: drut on May 12, 2014, 03:22:51 AM
Post by: TimTyler on May 12, 2014, 08:08:05 PM
With my K75's low seat, the reach to the C-bars was a little high and uncomfortable. I was always sitting on the front edge of my saddle. Simply re-positioning the C-bars lower puts the grips at an odd, even more uncomfortable angle.
With the S-bars and riser the grips are closer to me and still low on the bike. Good combination.
Thx for the suggestion, JO!
Replaced the U-bolt RAM mount for the Spot Tracker with a nifty RAM Ball-on-a-Screw thing.
Post by: Bob_VT on May 14, 2014, 11:01:43 AM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/Bob_VT/photo22_zps0581d00a.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/Bob_VT/photo4_zps0de017bd.jpg)
Post by: johnny on May 14, 2014, 11:17:40 AM
fixt it... new pro grip... same old grip kitten... tuned it all up for maximum throttle sensitivity...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140512_141009_zpssfokfkms.jpg) (http://s236.photobucket.com/user/owrstrich/media/1Cell14/IMG_20140512_141009_zpssfokfkms.jpg.html)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140512_141027_zpszbjenjoa.jpg) (http://s236.photobucket.com/user/owrstrich/media/1Cell14/IMG_20140512_141027_zpszbjenjoa.jpg.html)
j o
Post by: Zipster on May 14, 2014, 07:05:29 PM
I also started work on repairing cracked luggage boxes and repainting them as some of the paint had chipped off. I have one box split apart, sanded and 3 coats of plastic primer filler sprayed on. All being well I'll get it finished tomorrow and start on the next one. Two boxes and two mirrors to do before I do a fairing repair job. Wish me luck as I haven't much experience in painting but I know to prep, prep and prep some more before paint!
Post by: Zipster on May 16, 2014, 09:42:35 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/yvy8ary6.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/mu7uquda.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/by8agyhy.jpg)
Post by: mack75 on May 17, 2014, 07:47:25 PM
Came home and thought I will wash the bike as its still early. Washed the dust off the rear wheel :yow Large cracks all around my rear tyre near to the rim lip, Still plenty of tread depth but the tyre is toast. Avon Road Rider. Checked the front cracks in the tread wells. Tyre pressures are spot on. Could be the age of the tyre or has anyone had the same happen with Avons ??? What other choices please for a K75S mixed weather riding wet and dry roads.
Post by: Zipster on May 18, 2014, 06:03:52 AM
http://www.mts1200.info/motorcycleinfo/index8df6.html?fa=contentGeneric.efqfogzxxrcwvkgn&pageId=735969
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/18/6ynega3y.jpg)
Post by: mystic red on May 18, 2014, 11:15:55 AM
Post by: WayneDW on May 18, 2014, 07:22:18 PM
Was going to go for the first ride of the season but couldn't find my new license tabs! Settled for a back road trip to a gas station and back.
Found the license tab in my desk drawer right were it was suppose to be. How come I didn't see it the first time I looked there?!
Post by: johnny on May 20, 2014, 12:39:56 PM
butts my pitts crew had a spare on hand... new front tior and new bobbin and a half quart of oil... this moto is ready for the this weekends fieldmeet... its gonna be yeeehaaaaa...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140520_083509_zpsuhrgcmfo.jpg)
j o
Post by: drut on May 22, 2014, 06:21:31 AM
Post by: mystic red on May 24, 2014, 07:51:50 PM
Post by: johnny on May 25, 2014, 11:46:14 AM
swapped it in this morning... started at 5am... done at 7:30am...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140524_193056_zpsb8zgtlwr.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140524_193326_zpsxl2izadl.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140525_055306_zps28omhywm.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140525_062553_zpsaqkz7gx5.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140525_062601_zpsl86mdr25.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140525_074051_zps0lp5oeaa.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140525_074113_zpsqqvk0ukv.jpg)
putts my new rear tior on there too for the world famous ca 36 tomorrow... now to the tv for the indy 500... yeeeeeeehaaaaaaaa...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on May 25, 2014, 12:03:43 PM
Post by: johnny on May 25, 2014, 12:21:46 PM
i still have 1 unmounted front and the rear i took off todaystill has half its life left... the 36 is gonna be yeeehaaa with new rubbers front and back... yeeeehaaaaa...
my goal... wear out these tiors before we roll to cheezconsin june 20th...
j o
Post by: mystic red on May 25, 2014, 02:01:43 PM
Post by: johnny on May 25, 2014, 02:24:12 PM
j o
Post by: drut on May 25, 2014, 05:09:40 PM
Post by: mack75 on May 26, 2014, 09:36:35 AM
Both front and rear AVON ROAD RIDERS have loads of tread left. I noticed the rear has developed large cracks all around on the side walls and the front one has cracking within the tread groves. So to be safe they are both being replaced this week. Thank you for showing the chart on how to check the details. Both my tyres are in fact 7 years old, look like new but are now junk through lack of use. The last owner was an elderly gentleman who did not use the bike much.
I have noticed some threads on here regarding the fitting of radial tyres, I was always told fit bias if original fitment was bias and radials if original fitment was radials but never mix the two. As I am fitting two new tyres the question is this ;
Should I stick with Avon Road Riders or try something else. ( the Avons have been none descript - but the were old) I am not fashion conscious so not wanting a fat back tyre or one fitted off a car, nor do I ride every day so not too concerned how long they last within reason.
My riding is mainly two up on gently twisting roads at around 60 to 70 mph I'm just taking in the scenery and chilling. What would you guys recommend for my K75s. Many thanks Mac.
Post by: roninvt on May 26, 2014, 12:39:28 PM
Post by: Inge K. on May 26, 2014, 06:26:15 PM
Both front and rear AVON ROAD RIDERS have loads of tread left. I noticed the rear has developed large cracks all around on the side walls and the front one has cracking within the tread groves.
You find a lot about that subject in the english BM BIKES forum.
Post by: mystic red on May 26, 2014, 07:11:26 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/a3evapag.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/u4aqysyj.jpg)
Post by: CRASH on May 26, 2014, 09:08:57 PM
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10390561_757467230964489_8008786367714933637_n.jpg)
Post by: Glacial on May 27, 2014, 02:20:40 AM
So to keep the bike running well until major surgery, I glued up the cracks in the manifolds with polyurethane adhesive/sealant, put it all back together and balanced the throttles. Now idles very nicely, but not a job to be proud of. :nono
Post by: staffordworks on May 27, 2014, 10:11:23 AM
put in new plugs, they didn't have any normal ones that fit so i tried some fancy E3 diamond fire, probably no advantage other than you don't have to gap them, bike seems happy with them though.
added some coolant and brake fluid.
tonight i get to put on a new rear shock thanks to a fellow bricker, not sure my neck can take much more bouncing.
next: exhaust leak, L-jetronic adjustment? new brake pads, new fork oil and if i'm feeling really rich i'll finally replace the headlight glass that i shattered flipping my brick a year and a half ago, tape is gettin crusty :)
Post by: racinrich on May 27, 2014, 11:09:45 AM
Post by: Zipster on May 31, 2014, 05:12:31 AM
Post by: Zipster on May 31, 2014, 06:54:34 AM
Mileage noted at battery change - just about run in!
Post by: K75RT Keith on May 31, 2014, 08:25:01 AM
Post by: Chaos on May 31, 2014, 09:25:57 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/yvare8u8.jpg)
Mileage noted at battery change - just about run in!
Not properly run in until you get rid of that first zero. Your's beats mine at poker!
Post by: Zipster on May 31, 2014, 03:10:23 PM
Not properly run in until you get rid of that first zero. Your's beats mine at poker!
Lol - fair one! I do my best to catch up :-)
Post by: F14CRAZY on June 01, 2014, 09:43:00 AM
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/q81/s720x720/10174981_10105017502626334_7673807755130797015_n.jpg)
Post by: drut on June 04, 2014, 01:33:02 PM
Post by: Zipster on June 04, 2014, 04:03:35 PM
Changed fuel filter,didn't have any issues but got a shock to see date on filter.I had one of those a few weeks back. Mine is a 96 bike and it was a 94 filter. Do you think it could have been the original filter? My bike has just clicked over 98,000 miles and I would hate to think none of the previous owners loved it!!
Post by: drut on June 04, 2014, 05:05:14 PM
I really don't know,hard to say how long filter was held "in stock".My filter,despite its age marking,was still working well with no indication of restriction & I found it just as easy to blow through as the new mahle kl 145 filter that replaced it.Guess its a lottery how long these filters last depending on fuel quality.
Post by: sh00ter on June 04, 2014, 05:49:30 PM
replaced the oil sight glass, original and it was leaking and nearly opaque.
came out not too badly ... new one nearly in - couple more taps with the drift, slip. F#*# the new ones are glass. shatterry, shardy glass, if you hit them with anything sharp or solid, they shatter. like a water glass. tiny shards of glass are required now to be dug out and then pop out, get a new one ... grrr .... I think I got all the couple little pieces that went inside the pan, maybe 1mm or smaller, but grrr. why would they make it glass? I guess so it doesn't fade like the plastic, but removing the glass ones (if you had to) would be a serious pain (AMHIK) ..
oh well - there goes another 50 spot to max.
Post by: TimTyler on June 04, 2014, 07:06:16 PM
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/q81/s720x720/10174981_10105017502626334_7673807755130797015_n.jpg)
Post by: F14CRAZY on June 04, 2014, 09:24:01 PM
It's a good idea when you do this to chock the front wheel so it won't rotate/move. I also bungee the front hand brake lever. If the bike get's bumped and the front wheel is free, those saw horses will tip over fast.
You know, that sounds smart. I always block/chock cars and use jackstands when I work under them but don't know why I didn't think of it in this case.
On facebook my best buddy posted that one famous photo of a guy welding underneath a pickup propped up by a 2x4...
Post by: mystic red on June 05, 2014, 01:55:45 AM
Quote
[On facebook my best buddy posted that one famous photo of a guy welding underneath a pickup propped up by a 2x4...quote] :mbird
Post by: Zipster on June 08, 2014, 11:52:50 AM
http://youtu.be/oJ_3JZvHF8s
Post by: detbmw on June 09, 2014, 09:33:58 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/photo22_zps20a9ce97.jpg)
And what the bike looked like with the Aeroflow windscreen.
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/photo3_zpsf680cb68.jpg)
Post by: johnny on June 09, 2014, 11:09:34 PM
thats whack... butts im digging it...
j o
Post by: detbmw on June 10, 2014, 07:06:48 AM
greetings detbmw...
thats whack... butts im digging it...
j o
I should of added, I pushed the screws through a piece of cardboard and painted the screw heads and washers black.
I like it.
Post by: CRASH on June 15, 2014, 12:17:37 AM
Earl ... Amsoil Synthetic because that is what I use in everything and have for decades and it works.
Odyssey Battery ... again, what I always use, like em .. and this one after 4 years and about 75k miles had decided to become flakey. Decided I did not want to carry a charger with me on trips anymore.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/fd1_zps91d00ec4.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/fd2_zps8291f607.jpg)
Post by: Glacial on June 15, 2014, 05:30:13 PM
Post by: drut on June 15, 2014, 06:09:47 PM
May be of help,exhaust with heat issues:likely,inlet without heat issues maybe not!
Post by: Opus on June 15, 2014, 07:08:08 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9zFgB8lTNM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9zFgB8lTNM)
May be of help,exhaust with heat issues:likely,inlet without heat issues maybe not!
Best to not use Red Loctite at all. Coat threads with copper anti-seize and Torque to spec. Per BMW Mech. I know, you should never have to use Red or Blue Loctite.
If you do need to use Loctite, use only Blue as it is the easiest to remove. Make sure to re-check and re-torque the bolts/nuts after a day or 2 to make sure they are tight.
If you use the Copper Anti-seize, bolt/nut removal will be easier also.
Just my 2cents..... :2thumbup:
Post by: Glacial on June 16, 2014, 09:03:13 AM
Head is now off and being prepared for the shop. Good news is the pistons and valves all look in good condition with just healthy quantities and colours of deposits.
Post by: Zipster on June 17, 2014, 06:33:06 PM
I also received the front middle stainless steel flexible brake line this morning that I had ordered on Sunday from Motobins (great service for UK brick owners) after discovering a crack in my OEM rubber one. Front brake system drained of fluid, new hose fitted and system bled ready for the road. Test run done and brakes are great (apart from no ABS).
Ready for a tour of Scotland next week :-)
Post by: mystic red on June 17, 2014, 08:03:27 PM
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/fd1_zps91d00ec4.jpg)
Post by: Turkus on June 17, 2014, 08:12:19 PM
Crash, is that a Russel she's sportin'?
Yep...and you'll spill blood trying to get him go with anything else :yes
Post by: Glacial on June 18, 2014, 02:04:15 AM
Couldn't get my ABS to recognise my rear sensor so I've put black tape over the lights!! It's a temporary fix!
I also received the front middle stainless steel flexible brake line this morning that I had ordered on Sunday from Motobins (great service for UK brick owners) after discovering a crack in my OEM rubber one. Front brake system drained of fluid, new hose fitted and system bled ready for the road. Test run done and brakes are great (apart from no ABS).
Ready for a tour of Scotland next week :-)
Take an anti-midge head net with you for stops, the little b******ds are bad this year.
Post by: K75RT Keith on June 18, 2014, 10:14:12 AM
Crash, is that a Russel she's sportin'?
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/Gulgamesh/fd1_zps91d00ec4.jpg)
Best darn seat I've ever owned is a Russel. Had a Corbin and after 3000 miles I hated so much I put the original seat back on cause it was less painful.
Post by: Zipster on June 18, 2014, 11:29:33 AM
Take an anti-midge head net with you for stops, the little b******ds are bad this year.Thanks for the heads up, so to speak!! :-)
Post by: F14CRAZY on June 18, 2014, 09:53:29 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/1554539_10152463249367908_6211847484051860348_n.jpg)
Post by: Bokobob on June 19, 2014, 04:16:10 PM
Dealer showed me a slight gas leak at front left seam of gas tank and also indicated the brake master cylinder was shot and leaky....I'll attend to those after some research, especially on the gas tank issue....(dealer suggests new tank).
Glad to have this out of the way at least to the point it is...I also will have valves adjusted but they did not have a new gasket so could not do that today...
Post by: Glacial on June 23, 2014, 03:27:23 AM
Lovely - smooth, no back fires or hesitations, 100@7000 very relaxed. :yes :riding: :yes :riding:
Only issue is that I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.
One happy Motobricker!
Post by: TimTyler on June 23, 2014, 11:27:49 AM
... I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.
Throttle body balance.
Post by: rbm on June 23, 2014, 01:58:40 PM
Only issue is that I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.Once TB sync is achieved as recommended by Tim, set idle speed by incrementally and equally turning the brass coloured air bypass screws clockwise (to lower) or counterclockwise (to raise) by 1/4 or 1/2 turn. Measure the effect on idle after each adjustment.
Post by: Glacial on June 23, 2014, 04:47:30 PM
Post by: Oma Aika on June 26, 2014, 10:11:27 AM
http://www.vanhamoto.net/2014/06/wagnerin-nuha-eli-bmw-k75-vuosi-oljya.html (http://www.vanhamoto.net/2014/06/wagnerin-nuha-eli-bmw-k75-vuosi-oljya.html)
Post by: mjydrafter on June 26, 2014, 02:32:57 PM
He got a new radiator, but it's the bigger radiator for the K's. So the radiator cowling/shroud never fit correctly. He had started trying to get it to fit, but didn't go very far. I have always thought it looked okay, but kind of ratty. So I set about to making it work.
I got the cowl on with a bit of work and a couple of standoff tubes 3/4" at the top and ~2.125" at the bottom. BUt what about that black strip where the pieces "didn't" come together.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140622_125552_zpsa15fhbwf.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140622_125605_zpsuubhcckb.jpg)
My first try to close the gap, was okay, but the sheet metal I used was too flimsy and I didn't think it would weld very well. So I remade the piece and welded it up. Threw on a coat of white hammerite and here's how it looks now.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140624_101124_zpspxpltzib.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140624_101117_zpsoeh1wddv.jpg)
I won't win any concourses, but my brick is a rider not a show bike. :yes
Here are a couple of pics of the piece I made up:
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140624_075506_zpssigvfkhi.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140624_075438_zps8dyrsddv.jpg)
Post by: K75RT Keith on June 29, 2014, 02:18:48 PM
Post by: richarddacat on June 29, 2014, 04:52:36 PM
I've been cleaning stuff and came across the big box with my radiator cowling in it. The PO of my brick had installed a new radiator because the original fan shit the bed and drilled the original radiator. :musicboohoo:
He got a new radiator, but it's the bigger radiator for the K's. So the radiator cowling/shroud never fit correctly. He had started trying to get it to fit, but didn't go very far. I have always thought it looked okay, but kind of ratty. So I set about to making it work.
I got the cowl on with a bit of work and a couple of standoff tubes 3/4" at the top and ~2.125" at the bottom. BUt what about that black strip where the pieces "didn't" come together.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140622_125552_zpsa15fhbwf.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140622_125605_zpsuubhcckb.jpg)
My first try to close the gap, was okay, but the sheet metal I used was too flimsy and I didn't think it would weld very well. So I remade the piece and welded it up. Threw on a coat of white hammerite and here's how it looks now.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/Mobile%20Uploads/20140624_101124_zpspxpltzib.jpg)
I won't win any concourses, but my brick is a rider not a show bike. :yes
Looks good from here :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?
Here's what I did in about a days time.
Removed a Rifle and installed the C fairing, removed RT bars and installed C bars with bar risers (I'd like to try and see the K1 bars in the future).
Installed a Works shock and a Corbin Gunfighter low seat (not real pleased with the appearance so it better feel good or it's coming off).
I might use some engineering ingenuity like you did with your radiator shroud and fab some custom side covers this winter.
Drained and refreshed - brake fluid, radiator fluid and after a good days ride the gear box and drive will be replaced. Fresh motor oil already circulating.
Polished and polished again. :Rabia:
Ready for some seat time now.
Post by: Grim on June 30, 2014, 07:55:59 PM
Found one was torn about 1/3 the way around. No actual holes in the other three but they didn't look very far from it. That explains my poor idle hopefully and I hope some of the bus I get around 3k.
I also found a bad crank case vent line. Local dealers are closed on Mondays, crossing my fingers that one has it in stock or can get it by Wednesday when my injectors will be back from getting flow tested and cleaned if needed. Have a local place that handles the injectors.
Vid showing the damage.
http://youtu.be/Cwjm7W8I0dQ (http://youtu.be/Cwjm7W8I0dQ)
Post by: Grim on July 02, 2014, 05:06:29 PM
Seems to fire off better as well. My idle was at 1150 ish before working on it and now it seems to have dropped back you 950-1000 where it's suppose to be and I have not made any adjustments. I also found a couple other vacuum leaks (all before the throttle bodies so wouldn't have caused idle issues), bad fuel lines and a bad crank case breather hose.
List of parts used:
8 clamp from Grainger (1) 5czd8
36 in of high pressure fuel injection hose
1 crank case vent hose 111 151 461 835
4 ORings for throttle pedestals 116 114 651 69
4 bushing (boot) 116 114 617 39
Vid of what I found:
http://youtu.be/Cwjm7W8I0dQ (http://youtu.be/Cwjm7W8I0dQ)
EDIT:
Got in a decent ride today GREATLY improved. I wish I had done this a year ago. This about cured a decel back fire I was getting. Much smother take off. Even feels better at steady cruise. This needs to be stressed as a major thing to look for. .
Post by: mjydrafter on July 04, 2014, 08:18:39 AM
Looks good from here :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?
I think it's off an BMW R80st. The bike was wrecked at one point, and I assume this was available.
Post by: richarddacat on July 05, 2014, 05:43:44 PM
Looks good from here :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?
I think it's off an BMW R80st. The bike was wrecked at one point, and I assume this was available.
Almost looks like a modified R65LS fairing.
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 06, 2014, 06:45:49 PM
Also took my cluster off again and replaced my odometer knob that fell out (replacement obtained from another bricker on the board). Also dialed in the speedometer and it's like perfect now. They're like 8 mph fast from the factory, then I made it 5 mph slow a while back using Drake's instructions, but now it's 0.5 mph off if anything according to GPS.
Post by: johnny on July 06, 2014, 08:01:48 PM
do you have oem 1156 sockets or run n lites 1157 sockets (http://www.run-n-lites.com/products.html)...
do you have an oem flasher relay or a kisan signalminder (http://kisantech.com/mag/index.php/signalminder/sm-6.html)...
does the right front led work in the left socket... does the left front led bulb work in the right socket...
does 1156 or 1157 bulb work in both...
j o
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 06, 2014, 09:23:24 PM
Pretty sure I've got signalminders...I mean Drake owned this thing come on
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 06, 2014, 09:24:24 PM
greetings f14crazy...
do you have oem 1156 sockets or run n lites 1157 sockets (http://www.run-n-lites.com/products.html)...
do you have an oem flasher relay or a kisan signalminder (http://kisantech.com/mag/index.php/signalminder/sm-6.html)...
does the right front led work in the left socket... does the left front led bulb work in the right socket...
does 1156 or 1157 bulb work in both...
j o
http://classickbikes.com/ckb/1.my.k.bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75c_pf.htm (http://classickbikes.com/ckb/1.my.k.bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75c_pf.htm)
Signalminder for sure :2thumbup:
Post by: johnny on July 06, 2014, 10:13:22 PM
j o
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 07, 2014, 06:14:09 AM
Post by: drut on July 07, 2014, 06:36:54 PM
Post by: johnny on July 07, 2014, 07:20:28 PM
j o
Post by: drut on July 07, 2014, 07:31:23 PM
looks ramtastic... i betts its gonna be yeeehaaaaaa...
j o
I hope so!I took your advice from I asked about rear shocks but had to wait till I had funds & not sorry:unit appears really high quality.Really looking forward to trying it out.
Post by: Zipster on July 07, 2014, 07:35:06 PM
Post by: johnny on July 07, 2014, 07:48:12 PM
im sitting at this t-boner figger i must twist the wrist or wait for all the hodags to pass... so i twist the wrist and at the apex i lose power and nose down... then without notice im at full power fishtailing out in front of the hodags...
i find the plastic housing where the throttle cable meets the grip is broken allowing whackness down at the engine...
so i didds what all motobrickers should do... i jbwelded it...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140707_185011_zpsbgtwpmno.jpg)
j o
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 07, 2014, 07:52:45 PM
Ram rear shock arrived today so fitted it & set initial sag.Hoping to try it & dial it in later in the week.Seems well made and really nice people to deal with.
Is that a K100RS SE?
Post by: drut on July 07, 2014, 08:09:33 PM
"Is that a K100RS SE?"
No its a 1990 K100RS 16v,resprayed in Ford Frozen White
Post by: richarddacat on July 07, 2014, 08:33:02 PM
Well the other day the foot arm broke off on the side stand and gave me another reason to fix it.
So, I welded the foot arm back on, straighten the stand back out and since I most likely weaken it by heating it I also welded a piece of key stock to the back side.
BUT, during the repair I still rode the bike and didn't know about the bushing in the frame swing mount. What made me think about this was that noise I heard riding home from work that sounded like a nut falling off my bike and that slight twist of the rear tire when I know there wasn't anything in the rode.
Part now on order. :musicboohoo:
Post by: subforry on July 14, 2014, 12:09:21 PM
Made this 555 IC based timer to start the fan at the push of a button and run for 5 minutes. It has a potentiometer so the time can be adjusted from 1-10 minutes.
I am waiting for the push button to arrive. It has a led that I will light up to show the timer and fan are running.
Post by: Motorhobo on July 14, 2014, 04:03:23 PM
Didn't work on the brick so much as built an item that will be installed on the brick.
Made this 555 IC based timer to start the fan at the push of a button and run for 5 minutes. It has a potentiometer so the time can be adjusted from 1-10 minutes.
I am waiting for the push button to arrive. It has a led that I will light up to show the timer and fan are running.
I want one of those -- need to learn how to do that kind of cool stuff.
Replaced clutch and choke cable on my black motobrick. Took off and drained tank to finish the paint job I never finished last year. Took off the rear right turn signal on the red motobrick and bent it back into shape with a heat gun after I guess someone had dropped it and it was tilted upwards 7 degrees. Put an exhaust gasket made from two strips of beer can aluminum with copper high-heat RTV sandwiched in between on the black brick -- tried it out on red brick and it worked pretty good -- not a single backfire in 500 miles. Drained the oil and CD-2 mix from the black brick which I hope cleaned that sprag clutch after 300 miles and replaced with good clean Mobil 1.
Post by: roninvt on July 14, 2014, 09:42:14 PM
Post by: Bokobob on July 17, 2014, 08:25:33 PM
Post by: chico on July 22, 2014, 05:28:08 PM
Tore off the fiberglass repair attempt leftover from previous owner.
1. Sanded area well on boss and on panel.
2. Cleaned with soap and water.
3. Wiped down with rubbing alcohol just cause it was there.
4. Mixed some plastic epoxy and applied to boss edges and panel.
5. Ran a bead around the edges and let it dry a day.
6. Went back and sanded again.
7. Applied another layer to try to get wider contact patch.
8. Let dry a day and installed.
We'll find out if it worked next time I pull it off!! :dunno2:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/C22CCD14-9873-48A4-99FA-7819F58FC7AA_zps36ppw3gc.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/EBD06337-311D-4F2D-B3C0-58F86A971124_zpscsnd28pi.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/E36E96CC-7D75-4929-AADC-AD73465A3ED3_zpsezd77qcl.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/CF3C660F-1331-4ABB-9AAF-CFEE17349CD9_zpsylwgtrzu.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/08E6AE7E-939B-4885-B684-AD08BEF0EA68_zpsr1nzmrl7.jpg)
Fixed my girlfriend's birdie too!
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f10/f650Rallye/FCE2AD55-F534-4861-8108-AFFE26D3FFE0_zpsurq4ctlj.jpg)
Post by: hartrepair on July 24, 2014, 10:51:12 AM
Post by: richarddacat on July 24, 2014, 08:48:48 PM
Post by: subforry on July 25, 2014, 02:36:43 PM
I rode from Flowery Branch Ga to Mojave California. Took some scenic routes. Used 200cc of oil. No problems. New job here in Cali.Welcome to CA
Post by: Grim on July 25, 2014, 11:49:24 PM
so im nibbling on weed cheez and weed crackers and figger i better go fetch some more heffeweedzen...
im sitting at this t-boner figger i must twist the wrist or wait for all the hodags to pass... so i twist the wrist and at the apex i lose power and nose down... then without notice im at full power fishtailing out in front of the hodags...
i find the plastic housing where the throttle cable meets the grip is broken allowing whackness down at the engine...
so i didds what all motobrickers should do... i jbwelded it...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20140707_185011_zpsbgtwpmno.jpg)
j o
Broke the same part today. Thankfully not while I was on the road. I stopped at my mothers to mow her yard. Decided to grab her mail at the street jammed it in the glove box (LT) and as I was parking it got against the cable and broke the elbow. :(.
The way it broke I was able to take a zip tie to hold it together. That elbow is part of the cable so $37 cable is in my future.
Post by: Diveschool on July 29, 2014, 03:09:48 PM
Still to do, Installing Johnny blanket, and of course... Re installing the faring
Post by: Zipster on July 29, 2014, 03:52:48 PM
Post by: KMGuy on July 31, 2014, 02:40:46 PM
(http://)
Post by: grant71 on July 31, 2014, 02:55:22 PM
Post by: grant71 on July 31, 2014, 02:56:27 PM
Post by: drut on July 31, 2014, 04:43:32 PM
Post by: subforry on August 01, 2014, 02:56:09 PM
Didn't work on the brick so much as built an item that will be installed on the brick.
Made this 555 IC based timer to start the fan at the push of a button and run for 5 minutes. It has a potentiometer so the time can be adjusted from 1-10 minutes.
I am waiting for the push button to arrive. It has a led that I will light up to show the timer and fan are running.
Finished job. Short video to show fan tuning on. It will shut off after about 5 1/2 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dke15_qpa8o&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dke15_qpa8o&feature=youtu.be)
Switch - comes in different colors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HENI7OW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HENI7OW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Timer kit if you don't want to build your own. This kit is a little big but could fit in the relay box. Use a smaller relay to save space.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TA7A04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TA7A04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Post by: KMGuy on August 01, 2014, 05:37:00 PM
Confidence & a little bit of lube/oil on the 3 "posts" helps,when I first tried I was too gentle,placing in position then slapping end of housing "positively" works for me.Well I got it on finally, a touch of lube and then after very carefully lining it up, you say a prayer to bricK Gods and smack it harder than you'd really like, at first I thought I had broken either my hand, the mirror, or both! :yow
Post by: drut on August 01, 2014, 05:49:10 PM
Glad you won,like you say it doesn't seem right to whack it on but it works!
Post by: roninvt on August 06, 2014, 07:19:13 PM
Post by: subforry on August 09, 2014, 05:16:18 PM
For some reason every time I unplug something (rear break switch, fuel tank) the ABS needs to be reset. Any ideas or is this just how it is?
Post by: johnny on August 09, 2014, 05:49:42 PM
donts sound right abouts the ans reset there subforry... ats least you are getting practice...
been riding the burd motobrick cause the brick of the corn was near metal to metal on the bung brakes... so today i replaced the bung brakes and refreshed all the brake fluids... gonna be riding the brick of the corn for a while as i prepare the burd motobrick for winter riding...
j o
Post by: mjydrafter on August 10, 2014, 05:02:27 PM
If you're thinking about it, DO IT! :yes
Post by: richarddacat on August 10, 2014, 08:01:38 PM
Slapped in a set of progressive front springs. All I can say is wow, what a difference.Where did you buy yours? What wt. fluid did you use?
If you're thinking about it, DO IT! :yes
Post by: mjydrafter on August 11, 2014, 07:40:42 AM
Slapped in a set of progressive front springs. All I can say is wow, what a difference.Where did you buy yours? What wt. fluid did you use?
If you're thinking about it, DO IT! :yes
I didn't have enough fluid to change it out to 5 wt. So I just swapped out the springs.
The fluid I have in there is a Belray 10wt, it's not too old. I will change it out to 5 wt this week, which I can only imagine will make it even better.
I got the springs on ebay, apparently I had them on my watch list and they came up on sale with free shipping, so I pulled the trigger. :yes
Post by: TimTyler on August 11, 2014, 02:16:38 PM
(They are brighter than they appear in the photos. I think the high shutter speed conflicts with the LED freq.)
Post by: johnny on August 11, 2014, 02:30:43 PM
j o
Post by: pallum on August 11, 2014, 04:53:07 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on August 13, 2014, 07:10:51 PM
(https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/q85/s720x720/10348447_10152597669752908_4401264039887051790_n.jpg?oh=f7a4b6889ec7c9c29b2027127034f190&oe=5475B4A5)
I still have to get hardware for the grab handles and eventually paint it to match my back (currently the darker red as used on LT's). Oh and get the latches keyed to my ignition key.
I also swapped out my leaking Progressive rear shock for a used, good OEM one. Ride is soooo much better.
I ordered these goods from JD of Beemerbits.com. Stuff was priced quite reasonably and I'd recommended him
Post by: gpcrane on August 13, 2014, 10:32:56 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on August 16, 2014, 12:49:51 PM
Post by: TimTyler on August 17, 2014, 06:48:22 PM
Decided to wash out my one-year-old helmet for the first time. I've cleaned the cheek pads a few times since new though. Just used hot water. Surprising number of dead bugs came streaming out of the vents! Ewww.
Post by: WayneDW on August 17, 2014, 07:40:07 PM
I have a huge bottle of K&N air filter cleaner left over from my previous bike. I tried some of it on the saddle bags brackets and noticed that the overspray onto the rim immediately took off the crud. I said to my self, "hey look at that!". Started spraying it on the rim on purpose and wiping it off with a wet rag...wow. Very little "elbow grease", very much success. Take a look in the bucket to see all the crap that used to be on the wheel (second bucket, first bucket was much darker).
Post by: TimTyler on August 24, 2014, 01:34:05 AM
Also discovered that the starter EXCITER WINDING (the tube encasement) was on backwards. WTF? :mbird
Installed a new crankcase breather hose. Discovered that THAT was on backwards too. Holy shit.
Going riding with pals tomorrow.
Post by: staffordworks on August 24, 2014, 12:58:42 PM
lessons learned, yes you can re-route the hose so its much easier to get everything all together on the outside, no the filter wont fit back through that slot so... back to doing it the hard way with the hose wet with gas and the clamp threatening to slip off and get lost in the tank. but hey if a nerd can do it you can to :2thumbup:
Post by: WayneDW on August 24, 2014, 11:41:09 PM
Post by: Mongrel on August 28, 2014, 10:28:19 PM
That completes my drivetrain maintenance saga which has been going on near a month now, so everything is keen now.
Now to send the old parts off to be rebuilt at some point. Plus I'm about a tank of gas away from hitting 100k... Hmmmm...
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 29, 2014, 08:27:00 AM
Now to send the old parts off to be rebuilt at some point. Plus I'm about a tank of gas away from hitting 100k... Hmmmm...I think it's 2 tanks to Iron Bridge ...
Post by: Photog on August 29, 2014, 06:34:58 PM
It's had the cold stall symptom for a bit, finally decided to have a look and the exhaust valves were way tight.
Ordered up Polepenhollow's tool, pulled out the shims, measured, ordered new ones, then found I had mis-measured and ordered more.
Finally got the right ones in there and it runs great, no more cold stalls.
Anyone need some 2.5 mm spacers?
Post by: F14CRAZY on August 29, 2014, 09:46:43 PM
Headlight bulb burned out this morning so I replaced the PIAA bulb that Drake installed with a Silverstar Ultra. Was pretty happy with it on my ride home tonight. The Pichler has a Hella H4 headlight.
Removed my front wheel (first time doing that) and had a non-beemer dealer replace the Lasertech that was pretty much used up with a Dunlop D404, now matching the rear. I'm racking up a few hundred miles each week now that I'm attending Michigan State full time and these are said to last 10k miles. I'll be reporting back with their longevity.
Changed engine oil. Had about 5k miles on it. Valvoline conventional motorcycle 20w50 and an AC Delco PF53 oil filter. I have a stash of Bosch filters that came with the bike but didn't get to grab one where they're stored.
Replaced the radiator fan with a used one from BMW of Grand Rapids. I got that with a radiator for a pretty good price. I swapped just the fan though. Refilled the system with new coolant and tested the fan by idling...turned on at around 200 degrees. Sitting in traffic for 1.5 hours and watching the gauge push 235 degrees isn't fun. Turning the engine off when not moving, then running your battery down isn't that fun either...fortunately in that case we were still rolling so I gave the "hang on" command, popped the clutch in 2nd, and it fired back up. That fan sure makes the blast furnace even hotter.
Post by: Mongrel on August 30, 2014, 03:15:37 PM
Now to send the old parts off to be rebuilt at some point. Plus I'm about a tank of gas away from hitting 100k... Hmmmm...I think it's 2 tanks to Iron Bridge ...
Definitely thinking of driving instead of shipping (at least for the drop-off)! Not sure if that'll happen this fall or not though.
Post by: ackgs on September 06, 2014, 06:39:41 PM
Post by: roninvt on September 06, 2014, 06:59:09 PM
Post by: ackgs on September 07, 2014, 11:52:54 AM
Post by: billday on September 07, 2014, 06:22:57 PM
Removed my front wheel (first time doing that) and had a non-beemer dealer replace the Lasertech that was pretty much used up with a Dunlop D404, now matching the rear. I'm racking up a few hundred miles each week now that I'm attending Michigan State full time and these are said to last 10k miles. I'll be reporting back with their longevity.
Changed engine oil. Had about 5k miles on it. Valvoline conventional motorcycle 20w50 and an AC Delco PF53 oil filter. I have a stash of Bosch filters that came with the bike but didn't get to grab one where they're stored.
Let us know how you do with the 404s. I just replaced a pair that had plenty of tread left but lots of cracking between the treads (not on the sidewalls). The guy who does my state inspection says the 404s are known for that. I went with Shinkos. I've been meaning to start a thread about life in Cheap-O Tire Land.
Next oil change, consider Mobil 1 Synth, pretty reasonable price when you get the big jug from WalMart. The synth oil is supposed to prevent problems with the starter's sprag clutch.
Post by: ackgs on September 14, 2014, 11:35:58 AM
Post by: TimTyler on September 27, 2014, 02:56:04 PM
Post by: johnny on September 27, 2014, 05:03:16 PM
so... if you would put some oil in your water that would not have happened...
now... i changed all the fluids in the burd motobrick today... gonna do the same for the brick of the corn next weekend... and getts it ready for winter nesting... as the burd motobrick will be on active duty all winter...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on September 27, 2014, 05:05:44 PM
Post by: johnny on September 27, 2014, 05:07:56 PM
j o
Post by: musicbum on September 30, 2014, 01:59:06 AM
The posts here are invaluable.
Buying an old Brick also includes a promotion to Chief Engineer!
Post by: Zampano on October 01, 2014, 09:14:56 PM
Also found an aeroflow and the wind buffeting is definitely improved. Still plenty of wind noise, but instead of the brunt of the wind smacking me straight in the mouth area it's moved up towards the top of the helmet. I like to sit up straight when I ride so it's still not perfect but much better than the stock windshield.
Post by: orforester on October 06, 2014, 12:17:42 AM
Post by: Marky Boy OZ on October 10, 2014, 05:21:44 AM
Posted on form about this...........
Post by: ackgs on October 11, 2014, 04:28:01 PM
I very much appreciate the help and knowledge provided by the members here. Thanks guys.
Post by: richarddacat on October 12, 2014, 08:10:13 PM
Works very well on knocking the wind off your chest and directs air just over the helmet (I'm 5'7"). Keeps about half the bugs off your face shield.
Slab speeds are much more tolerable. :2thumbup:
Post by: K75RT Keith on October 14, 2014, 03:39:51 PM
Post by: Marky Boy OZ on October 18, 2014, 05:15:22 AM
And,
Failed.....
Post by: Zipster on October 18, 2014, 11:08:58 AM
Post by: Inge K. on October 18, 2014, 12:01:27 PM
Post by: koapono on October 19, 2014, 05:43:43 PM
i bought a 94 LT in march 2014, 52K on odometer. runs great but has load of previous owner neglect issues. ABS lights always on/blinking, 4-way flashers non-functional, windscreen would not operate and right handgrip heater not working.
ABS did not work, did all the re-sets, tests, adjustments and diagnostics final result was "broken brain" according to PO this is the third "abs brain" on the bike, has ben in and out of Bob's BMW several times, yada, yada, yada. I will remove entire system over the winter, not spending more on ABS fix than i did on the scoot!
while troubleshooting the flashers, heated grip, windscreen most of the faults were due to broken wires and/or bad connection on the dash switches. I cleaned and re-soldered the connections on switches and also cut wires and spliced in a plug for each circuit, the switch with copper spades is for cooling fan, there's plenty of room under the dash panel and now removal is quick and easy, nice to have that out of the way when working on other stuff.
the heated grip had a broken wire under the throttle grip, repair was straight forward.
side stand switch removal was a no-brainer for me, just another component to malfunction and elimination of switch has no adverse impact on operation of scoot.
pics attached.
side-stand switch project just entailed cutting wires, solder together, insulate and tuck into wire harness.
heated grip required removal of throttle grip (done by blowing compressed air into grip and working it off), finding the break and repairing that. works fine!
Post by: Grim on October 19, 2014, 07:04:56 PM
Flipped up the seat and wiggled the ecm plug and could duplicate the symptoms. This is a reoccurring issue on my bike. Reseated plug and resumed riding with no further issue.
Think it's time you pull the plug and the ecm appart and clean each contact. Did my best to clean it last year but I guess not as good as I had thought.
Post by: koapono on October 21, 2014, 04:25:16 PM
clutch spline lube
upon re-assembly will install cruise control, servo unit will mount in space once occupied by ABS control unit.
Post by: koapono on October 22, 2014, 03:26:10 PM
less than one hundred dollars for the four lines, fittings and new crush washers, nearly half of that was for fittings, those banjo bolt assemblies were nearly five dollars each!
front lines fit with no stress or interference, will have to wait for reassembly to check fit on rear but i expect no problem.
Post by: TimTyler on October 22, 2014, 09:24:41 PM
Those copper washers look way to thick to me. The OEM ones are very thin. More washer width means less thread-gripping.
Post by: koapono on October 23, 2014, 10:41:21 AM
Quote
Those copper washers look way to thick to me. The OEM ones are very thin. More washer width means less thread-gripping./quote]
Mr Tyler is right, nearly 2 thread difference tween thick and thin washers. search for thin washers has proved unproductive so i'll polish up the used ones (crocus paper and WD-40) and re-use. some will scream sacrilege but i've done this often with success. if i get a leaky fitting i'll know right away deal with it as required.
Post by: subforry on October 23, 2014, 01:14:01 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Earls-177100ERL-Aluminum-Crush-Washer/dp/B000M0DITI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414084377&sr=8-2&keywords=aluminum+washer+earl%27s (http://www.amazon.com/Earls-177100ERL-Aluminum-Crush-Washer/dp/B000M0DITI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414084377&sr=8-2&keywords=aluminum+washer+earl%27s)
Post by: johnny on October 23, 2014, 01:38:17 PM
i have used the beamerboneryard rebuild kits with 100% success..
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/macyreki.html (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/macyreki.html)
j o
Post by: koapono on October 24, 2014, 05:13:41 PM
got around to checking out clutch splines today. if you take close look at picture you'll see a ring of crud around the inside of the housing, ring matches the spinning circumference of clutch plate and is thick, gooey and full of particles. My guess is that last joker to lube the clutch splines must have really painted the lube on and excess has spun off and found its way to housing. In the process clutch plate has become contaminated to the point where rivet holes were full of same gooey substance which is too bad as clutch plate mic'd well within tolerance! new plate about to be ordered which brings me to a question:
anyone have any experience/good things to say about beemer boneyard standard clutch plates? OEM plate suits me fine but beemer boneyard plate is just over half the price.
I don't believe that any amount of "backspin" maintenance would have cured this issue.
Post by: orforester on October 25, 2014, 09:38:15 PM
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_10201.jpg)
Bike still in the shop, cause no room in the garage anymore, too many bikes
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_10191.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_10181.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_10171.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_10161.jpg)
Not perfect, but way better than before:
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_09611.jpg)
Sorry guys, here is why there is no more room in garage:
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s301/orforester/IMG_1011.jpg)
So anyone out there need RT fairings? or parts? I have two fronts, one with new mirrors tow right side lowers, one left side lower, radiator cover, small other fairing parts, a frame mount and mounting brackets. Would love to give them away for a very small fee, like $75 for the lot or piece, but you pay shipping costs.
Post by: koapono on October 26, 2014, 06:38:31 AM
ABS completely removed from bike, according to my un-calibrated kitchen scale total weight loss was approximately 15 pounds. The new, front braided steel hoses are in place, fit nicely, no interference with fender or forks, system bled and no leaks! fitment of rear will have to wait for reassembly after clutch install but i anticipate no issues.
cruise control vacuum servo will be installed in space once occupied by ABS controller.
Anyone want the parts (excluding brake lines, they have been spoken for)? you pay shipping!
I cannot say with certainty what is good or bad. I bought this bike in March 2014, ABS was not working, re-set and diagnostics indicate control unit failure, PO had a used controller installed said it was the third. I wasn't going to spend more fixing ABS than i spent for the bike and as i live in a "safety inspection" state (virginia) bike wouldn't pass inspection with ABS lights aglow. I did power off the lights but as i have no intent to repair ABS why carry the excess weight?
Post by: detbmw on October 26, 2014, 07:14:22 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/photo11_zps115590b0.jpg)
Post by: johnny on October 26, 2014, 07:43:13 PM
that motobrick is looking good...
j o
Post by: detbmw on October 26, 2014, 08:05:11 PM
greetings detbmw...Thanks Johnny! I'm working on getting a top of the line rack from a guy in NYC, hoping to add that in a week or so.
that motobrick is looking good...
j o
Post by: koapono on November 07, 2014, 04:58:11 AM
word of caution: some of those molded hoses are quite pricey and only sourced through BMW, i got some sticker shock!
two of the four bushings were cracked through and all the vacuum and crankcase breather/vent hoses were cracked.
this bike has sat idle for quite some time and lack of use/improper storage caused hoses to dry and get brittle.
bushings have an arrow for installation orientation, bench top exam revealed no difference in interior molding of bushings to the untrained eye, supplier (max bmw) went so far as to write "top" on each bushing, nice!
steel wire on left end of throttle linkage will hook up to cruise control cable.
also got clutch parts in so now i can get that installed and get the rear wheel back on the ground.
more to come as i plod through.
i bought this 94 LT in march of this year and have been slowly working my way through it. Runs great as most bricks do but was neglected by PO.
Post by: drut on November 07, 2014, 02:02:47 PM
Post by: subforry on November 07, 2014, 06:56:26 PM
Post by: TimTyler on November 08, 2014, 10:06:47 AM
Post by: Chaos on November 08, 2014, 06:35:05 PM
Post by: koapono on November 09, 2014, 03:07:10 PM
straight forward job, tons of info and detailed write-ups on various forums.
i mounted vacuum canister/servo unit in space where ABS unit once sat, plenty of room and nice clean fit.
tapped wires into relay box using posi-taps where splices were required.
mounted control cable on to throttle body linkage using aluminum crimp fittings bought at local big-box store, this made for a nice, clean looking installation.
mounted control on handle bar using old radio control mount.
will install fairing and trim pieces tomorrow followed by test-ride.
Post by: subforry on November 10, 2014, 12:05:26 PM
How did you adjust the butterflies?I didn't, just used the wrong part name or was thinking that I was syncing a carb bike. I really adjusted the screw which I think is a air bypass. What is it and what does it do? There are 4 of them.
Post by: koapono on November 11, 2014, 08:32:59 AM
used mercury manometer.
running smooth and idling at 950 RPM.
purring like a K-itty.
Post by: roddney62 on November 11, 2014, 05:09:04 PM
Post by: detbmw on November 20, 2014, 04:48:24 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_1924_zpscce4df73.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_1925_zps7d183d6e.jpg)
Post by: hartrepair on November 22, 2014, 11:05:16 AM
Post by: hartrepair on November 27, 2014, 01:18:18 PM
Post by: Roadbandit on December 06, 2014, 05:38:02 AM
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/OzRoadbandit/The%20Brick/IMAG2970_zpse4b3d340.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/OzRoadbandit/media/The%20Brick/IMAG2970_zpse4b3d340.jpg.html)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 06, 2014, 10:29:06 AM
The bike had been neglected for a while and although it was mechanically sound and ran well it was filthy and needed a pretty extensive detailing, service and restoration. Changed all fluids, lubed splines, stripped ABS, new brake pads and lines, touched up frame and mechanicals paint, new battery, 12 hour clock mod, instrument LED's, new front tire, LED driving lights, manual fan switch, stainless hardware, speedo calibration, fuel lines, recharged rear shock, new fork gaiters, installed LED parking lights, headlight relays, replaced missing radiator grille and repaired radiator fan.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 23, 2014, 10:20:20 PM
Today I installed a water temperature gauge, made harnesses for the driving lights and the controls for a heated jacket, and repainted the HES and pump covers.
Post by: Roadbandit on December 26, 2014, 10:09:45 PM
What did I do? …. I rode it !!
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/OzRoadbandit/The%20Brick/IMAG3075_zps8ae98449.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/OzRoadbandit/media/The%20Brick/IMAG3075_zps8ae98449.jpg.html)
Post by: detbmw on January 03, 2015, 06:09:00 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_2809_zps23032128.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_2811_zpsda215251.jpg)
I plan to post the Top of the Line rack for sale. Nothing wrong with it, but the Givi rack is made for the Monokey case that I have.
Post by: koapono on January 05, 2015, 05:53:03 PM
got two 14VDC, 30 amp relays from radio shack, glued them together with marine epoxy.
drilled and tapped two holes on instrument cluster vibration damper and mounted relays there, plenty of room for relays and wiring.
used stock wiring from headlamp switch to activate coils on relays.
used 12 gauge wire for power to bulb and ground, also used a high-temp, water resistant ceramic H4 plug.
power supply is fused and ground was made at frame connection under fuel tank (gave this a good cleaning while there).
got caught up in the job and didn't take many pics.
connections are either soldered or made with posi-taps.
Post by: johnny on January 05, 2015, 06:29:00 PM
stock bulb or other...
j o
Post by: koapono on January 06, 2015, 05:58:23 AM
right now i am using the OSRAM you recommended on a previous post.
won't be doing much night riding for a while as it's a tad chilly here so won't really get to appreciate the upgrade.
however at night, in the garage i am quite pleased with the crisp, bright light. i wish i had taken a before/after picture. i am sure that just adding the 12 gauge wire to bulb would have had a significant impact.
Post by: detbmw on January 10, 2015, 09:23:08 PM
It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.
I found articles on the 2357 bulb here:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/taillite.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/taillite.shtml)
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html (http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html)
Post by: Chaos on January 11, 2015, 10:57:19 AM
It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html (http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html)
That's a very Democratic, left leaning statement, expecially from a Texan! :eek::yow (sorry, please return to non-political mode) :riding:
Post by: detbmw on January 11, 2015, 08:58:07 PM
It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html (http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html)
That's a very Democratic, left leaning statement, expecially from a Texan! :eek::yow (sorry, please return to non-political mode) :riding:
I don't want to go all political either, at least not here. I'll take your remark as a compliment.
I'm amazed some days at what people around here think and say (evolution is only a theory, we are living in the end times, etc.).
Post by: TimTyler on January 23, 2015, 05:54:09 PM
Installed fresh rubber washers on the cover screws. Permatex UltraBlack sealant on the half-moons and front seams near the chain.
This is the 3rd adjustment I've made to the K75. The last was 16k miles ago. Cylinders 1 & 2 are down to 2.05 shims so I've only got another 25k miles at most before a new valve job or engine is required. Had to order 5 fresh shims from the dealer since their Service Dept box-o-shims is nearly empty of the thin K shims.
Old Intake 2.60 | 2.60 | 2.60
New Intake 2.55 | 2.55 | 2.55
Old Exhaust 2.15 | 2.20 | 2.25
New Exhaust 2.05 | 2.05 | 2.15
Post by: gladstone on January 24, 2015, 06:16:20 PM
Post by: johnny on January 24, 2015, 08:39:07 PM
i gotts zip ties holding my engine together too... actually they are holding most everything together...
j o
Post by: bignews1and2 on January 26, 2015, 01:52:21 PM
After putting 7k miles on her since then, I did the following on my newly acquired 1985 K100 RT with the help of a local BMW club member. http://bmwmcnj.com/ (http://bmwmcnj.com/)
I'm a novice when it comes to wrenching on bikes.
We changed:
1. Transmission oil - Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
2. Final drive oil - Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
3. Fork oil - Maxima 5wt mixed with Belray 5wt 60/40%
4. Brake Fluid - NAPA DOT4 fluid. Front and back.
5. Fuel filter - BMW R Oilhead & K; 16 14 2 325 859 / Mann MWK44
Took apart, checked and cleaned front brake pads. Lubed o ring on speedo sensor.
Post by: Snowman on January 30, 2015, 04:07:06 PM
Anyways, ordering all the filters and crush washers for a lube fest in a few weeks.
Post by: gazman on January 31, 2015, 02:22:44 AM
Post by: BeemerDrew on January 31, 2015, 08:48:12 AM
Removing the 2 lights was easy enough - just unbolted them from the fairing and then chase the wiring through to see where it goes. Two of the wires had round electrical clips on the end and were bolted to the RHS horn - not too sure why. One was an each and another went up under the tank and was traced to a piggy-back electrical connector behind the RHS side cover where it was spliced onto another wire. I did'nt bother to check what the lights were wired up to but thought that wiring it to the horn was dodgy - it may have been the earth, but 3 earths? Amazing what you find when you start pulling it to bits.
After sitting on the bike with the Garmin and the Ram mount I decided to use the Ram mount with with the 2 holes and attach it to the dash top on the LHS so that with the connecting bit it would fill in the area near the speaker. There was already 2 holes drilled there where something had been attached from its days as a Police bike. Just enlarged the holes and bolted the Ram mount there - all good so far. I ended up putting a bit of glue on the interior light and sticking it in until I get a replacement. Screwed the dash top back in and decided to see how the Ram mount works with the rest of the GPS unit. Couldn't find the connector bit that goes between the two balls :dunno2: Pulled half the garage apart trying to find it but no luck.
Looks like I will have to go out and buy another one, then I can wire in the GPS unit to the battery.
Stay tuned!
Cheers
Andrew
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 31, 2015, 12:40:15 PM
Post by: Snowman on January 31, 2015, 12:58:04 PM
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag268/bradshawm2004/IMG_0460_zpsdcd92imz.jpg)
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 31, 2015, 08:04:02 PM
Post by: kris on January 31, 2015, 09:49:36 PM
My 2004 Kawi Concours sits in pristine condition (under a cover) beside the Beemer. That U-Haul trip from Trenton to Hamilton in a snow storm left her pretty salty. Bike was pretty dusty already.
Looks like Heinz spent some time State-side, too. I think the PO did some tech work in North Carolina.
I'll post further as things progress.
Post by: kris on January 31, 2015, 11:04:56 PM
Post by: billday on February 01, 2015, 09:22:02 AM
Coolant change will be next...tranny and final drive oil also.
Maybe you already figured this out.... but don't put in the new transmission and FD oil until you've pulled the transmission and lubed all the splines. There's a fine how-to in the Lieberry, tells you everything you need to know about it.
Have fun!
Post by: technostructural on February 01, 2015, 09:49:44 AM
I drained all (or most) of the nasty fuel out of the tank, changed the oil & filter, and gave her a second wipe-down.
I was lucky enough to find a bag of goodies in the trunk, including CO2 cartridges? Can't think of why they'd be in there.
Coolant and brake fluid are next!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 01, 2015, 10:08:03 AM
Additionally, I would clean the ground connections on the frame. There is one near the ignition coils and another on the frame top tube under the tank with a cluster of brown wires screwed to it. Get everything shiny with a coat of dielectric grease. Get it done now and you can forget about it when you're getting down to the short strokes.
These are jobs that most people are inclined to skip because they don't have the visual effect of getting anything done. Do them now before you are tempted to skip them when things really start to come together. With the bike stripped down most of the stuff you need to reach will be easily accessible.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 01, 2015, 10:14:53 AM
Post by: technostructural on February 01, 2015, 10:17:06 AM
CO2 cartridges are part of the tire repair kit for inflating the repaired tire on the side of the road. There should be an inflater that uses them as part of your tools.
If this were Reddit, I would "upvote" your reply. Thanks! Learning things all the time here.
Post by: kris on February 01, 2015, 12:44:42 PM
It's looking like spline lube is a ways down the road....
The gas tank is looking fine, however!
Post by: kris on February 05, 2015, 11:01:30 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 06, 2015, 08:12:04 PM
Post by: kris on February 06, 2015, 10:02:45 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 06, 2015, 10:13:46 PM
Post by: kris on February 07, 2015, 07:43:11 AM
Thanks
Post by: billday on February 07, 2015, 07:57:26 PM
Then I took off front brakes, wheel, fender and reflectors and started scrubbing black grime off the forks. Simple Green, water, and a brush.
Post by: kris on February 09, 2015, 02:03:11 PM
Photographic end results attached...on to the clutch basket!
Post by: TimTyler on February 09, 2015, 02:37:48 PM
Is there any up-n-down play in your foot shift lever?
Post by: kris on February 09, 2015, 03:23:52 PM
Thanks for checking in on the tranny.
Post by: TimTyler on February 09, 2015, 03:28:26 PM
It's good that there's no play. Fixing play requires removing the gearbox cover which you're in a good position to do now.
Post by: kris on February 09, 2015, 04:49:30 PM
Post by: Scott_ on February 11, 2015, 11:24:39 PM
Changed out 4 valve buckets, new timing chain and rail guides.
Bypassed the "cyclonic" contraption in the air box.
Fresh antifreeze, plugs, and a TB sync.
Have to do the brake fluid change yet after I get it down off of the lift, but so far, so good. It purrs like a kitten and smother than before.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 12, 2015, 10:56:43 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on February 12, 2015, 04:27:22 PM
All we need now is less snow and a few more degrees(presently +5F).That snow pic looks so inviting. Me and the munchkin loves virgin snow. :yes Much better than the slop we get around here.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 12, 2015, 04:54:27 PM
It must be exciting getting around on the munchkin this time of year. The most fun I had riding enduros was the Frostbite Enduros the Welland County M/C used to run around St. Catherines in mid January back in the 70's(when it was the coming ice age not global warming that everyone was worried about).
Post by: koapono on February 13, 2015, 09:42:33 AM
also upgraded H4 headlight bulb with Osram 70/65 watt.
Post by: detbmw on February 13, 2015, 02:52:30 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/2007_zpsx1bd8dnn.jpg)
Post by: kris on February 14, 2015, 08:17:14 PM
Post by: Roadbandit on February 14, 2015, 08:52:31 PM
now me being the curious fellow I am decided to cut open the old filter ….suffice to say I don't think the pervious owner knew what a fuel filter was…. :yow
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/OzRoadbandit/The%20Brick/IMAG3337_zpso4y4ebad.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/OzRoadbandit/media/The%20Brick/IMAG3337_zpso4y4ebad.jpg.html)
Post by: detbmw on February 14, 2015, 09:02:14 PM
Nice lookin' ride, Rich. Enjoy!Thanks!
I love this bike!
Post by: Roadbandit on February 15, 2015, 03:25:07 AM
Post by: detbmw on February 15, 2015, 04:06:38 PM
Nice lookin' ride, Rich. Enjoy!
Here is a better pic. My red brick with newly painted side cases on the red-brick streets of Nacogdoches.
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_2850_zpshhrrdh3x.jpg)
Post by: TimTyler on February 16, 2015, 04:04:01 PM
Sure enough, the exhaust valve gaps are wider than spec. Got to go buy some shimmage tomorrow. Hopefully that'll eliminate the rattle.
Post by: kris on February 18, 2015, 07:40:15 AM
Is that the original saddle on your RS? It looks like my RT saddle. I was wondering how comfortable it was with your forward-leaning riding position versus the bench-style seat I was going to replace my saddle with when I took the bike naked? If yours is good I may just stand pat....
Post by: kris on February 18, 2015, 07:42:49 AM
Post by: detbmw on February 18, 2015, 09:52:37 AM
Hey Rich,
Is that the original saddle on your RS? It looks like my RT saddle. I was wondering how comfortable it was with your forward-leaning riding position versus the bench-style seat I was going to replace my saddle with when I took the bike naked? If yours is good I may just stand pat....
Kris,
It's a K75S, not an RS. The seat is a Corbin. I've heard folks complain about Corbin seats being awful, but I love mine. I've done 1,000+ miles in a weekend on it, and I didn't have any discomfort. This is the seat that came on the bike when I bought it in '12.
Post by: TimTyler on February 18, 2015, 10:43:27 AM
Tim, if you get the chance could you post a photo or two of the shims? I'm curious as to what they actually look like.
29mm Valve Shims (https://www.google.com/search?q=29mm+valve+shim)
Post by: kris on February 18, 2015, 03:35:42 PM
Post by: TimTyler on February 22, 2015, 02:05:50 PM
Got a new tank bag to replace the 1st generation OEM Multivario which is fairly beat to shit at this point. I stopped by Touratech and tried the excellent Giant Loop FTB Pro (http://giantloopmoto.com/products/fandango-tank-bag-pro/) (made in Bend, OR) but the cut-out for the fuel cap is just way too small. Rode to Seattle's north side and settled on the locally manufactured AltRider bag (http://www.altrider.com/altrider-hemisphere-tank-bag/pid/1466) (they only make one). Similar in size to the Giant Loop, very waterproof, big cut-out for the fuel cap, and a long wrap-around zipper connecting to the base for easy fueling. I'm hoping a grow to appreciate the waterproof roll-top liner that's permanently affixed to the inside of the bag, but for now it seems like a space-waster as the bag is 95% weatherproof without it.
Put the S handlebars back on in my never-ending quest for ergo-bliss. My wrists align better with the S bars than the C bars. The new tank bag will support some of my weight leaning forward.
Then went for a ride.
Post by: kris on February 22, 2015, 09:48:02 PM
Post by: TimTyler on February 24, 2015, 06:43:51 PM
Found a WA State inspection facility one mile down the road. "We've never done a motorcycle." she says. Motorcycle aren't required to have emissions tests in WA. I tell her I'm just looking for the test results for personal reasons, not DMV requirements. She asks her manager to make a call to the home office to find out if the machines will work with a motobrick. The office gives her the go-ahead.
They inspectors are totally stoked to have a moto in the inspection bay. Wide smiles the whole time I'm there. Their photographer comes out and snaps some shots. It was freaky. She takes my $15. They stick their probe into the motobrick and test at idle 1k rpm and "Cruising" 2.5k rpm. I "pass". We head into the office to generate a print-out of the results.
My Carbon Dioxide (CO) value at idle is 2.94. BMW spec is 1.80-2.00 so I'm burning too much fuel. I suspected that, mostly because I've only been getting 40mpg and I can smell fuel when the bike starts.
Got to figure out how to lean out my mixture now. Pretty sure it's the screw on the top of the airbox / AFM. Tighten or loosen? How much?
Post by: johnny on February 24, 2015, 07:09:51 PM
i vote clockwise north of baja... counterclockwise south of baja...
j o
Post by: Inge K. on February 24, 2015, 07:16:00 PM
Pretty sure it's the screw on the top of the airbox / AFM. Tighten or loosen? How much?
The adjusting screw is a air bypass, so you must loosen it to let more air through.
I would have tried 1 full turn, smash the piggy bank, take 15$ and revisit the inspection place.
Post by: TimTyler on February 24, 2015, 07:18:04 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2015, 08:16:43 PM
The CO(carbon monoxide) reading at cruise looks like it is in spec. Adjusting the bypass on the FM affects all throttle settings, doesn't it? Won't it make the cruising mixture too lean? Isn't the correct adjustment the throttle body air bypass?
What is the correct setting for the throttle body air bypass screws? Don't they have some effect on the idle mixture?
Is it possible to set the idle mixture by using idle plug readings?
Post by: TimTyler on February 26, 2015, 05:43:29 PM
Rather than drive back and forth 40 miles each way to the emissions testing facility in Fife, WA I found a guy with a mobile dyno truck 5 minutes away. He cut me a great deal assuming I'd be in and out with just an CO mixture adjustment. He took a look at the ignition timing which was a tad off and then put the bike on the dyno and dialed in the airflow meter bypass screw to yield a 14:1 mixture. I brought my Carbtune since he didn't have one and got everything sounding smooth. He tunes a lot of Harleys and Japanese bikes but has never done a motobrick. He didn't seem to mind my suggestions and tech input.
He was impressed that the exhaust mixture remained perfectly constant throughout the entire RPM range. I guess that's not very common.
Maximum Power: BMW Spec: 75 hp (55 KW) at 8,500 rpm / My Bike: 54hp
Max Torque: BMW Spec: 50 ft lb at 6,750 rpm / My Bike: 38 ft lb
I wonder if BMW tests the drive shaft or the complete drivetrain to arrive at those specifications?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4_WR9i-2po
Post by: kris on February 27, 2015, 08:42:52 AM
Are those stock bars on your bike? If so, from which model?
Thanks
Post by: johnny on February 27, 2015, 09:06:10 AM
proper valve shims are good for 20hp... proally oughtra getts somebody to getts your valves dialed in...
greetings kris....
stock oem s or rs bars are best... regardless of what the geezers tellya...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on February 27, 2015, 09:19:20 AM
Valve shims were adjusted two weeks ago.
Post by: kris on February 27, 2015, 09:20:22 AM
Happy trails....
Post by: kris on February 27, 2015, 09:24:37 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 27, 2015, 09:33:36 AM
Post by: Chaos on February 27, 2015, 10:19:28 AM
Post by: BeemerDrew on February 28, 2015, 11:10:12 PM
Didn't have the Beemer roundel on the cowling piece, so I ordered one from the net and stuck it on. I know that you can't see it with the rack in the way, but it's nice to know it's there!
Post by: kris on March 01, 2015, 08:50:11 AM
Post by: Glacial on March 01, 2015, 04:16:53 PM
Just finished replacing the Givi 181 rack for the top box as the old one had stripped threads and the bolts kept falling out. It looks like the jig they use in the factory when they make these racks isn't quite right as there is something out of alignment. The first three bolts go in OK but the last one just doesn't quite line up - probably why the thread was stripped on the one just replaced. Anyways, I got the last bolt in OK and everything looks good.
Interesting, I had the same issue with the same rack. Found the front completely loose one day and haven't trusted a full load in the box since. May need to drill and re-tap the holes for a larger bolt - add it to the list!
Post by: ICBMW on March 05, 2015, 10:11:41 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/Fc82yIim.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/GcZzUqbm.jpg)
I can't park my bike near any outlets so I installed a solar battery tender. Hey, there's nothing more middle-age dork than a 19-year-old K tourer so this is just the next step. I think it looks cool. I got the 2 watt version of the PulseTech Solar Battery Charger. It's not supposed to charge the battery but it's supposed to "clean damaging lead-sulphates from the battery plates, which helps maintain a battery that can accept, store and release its power when needed." The one I saw reviewed was a 5 watt so I hope the 2 watt is able to help some. I asked the manufacturer and they recommended the 2 watt -- told me it was perfectly fine. Have any of you tried anything like this?
So, I fell for the literature. I know that the 2W isn't going to charge the battery so I hope that "conditioning" is what I need.
In short, I like telling the uninitiated that my bike is solar powered.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2015, 10:13:56 AM
Post by: TimTyler on March 05, 2015, 10:14:53 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2015, 05:01:37 PM
That panel puts out maybe 50ma. in bright sunshine. There is an electronic circuit that is supposed to put out a 2 amp pulse, probably from a capacitor, every couple of seconds. I am guessing the pulse duration is measured in msec. That's why it is sold as a conditioner not a charger. It doesn't have enough output to charge a battery.
Post by: WayneDW on March 08, 2015, 08:30:33 PM
Also put the battery back in, started it and rode all the way up and down the alley!
Post by: kris on March 08, 2015, 10:40:02 PM
Are you getting a bit of the thaw in Minny? Those of us in the Toronto/ Buffalo/ Detroit area are warming up nicely. I may get on my Kawi this week. When I did the math it really hasn't been that much of a hiatus. I last rode on January 2nd....so what was I complaining about?? Hope it lasts!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 08, 2015, 11:31:08 PM
Post by: WayneDW on March 09, 2015, 08:42:31 AM
It is designed to be waterproof but time will tell. It included a clamp to clamp onto a handlebar. I just threw that part away and tightened up the plastic nut to the back of the dashboard.
Worked pretty slick I think. My biggest concern is that I hooked it up to the same unswitched power for the mini-outlet so the blue LED is always on. I may change that if it draws my battery down excessively.
Kris asked about where to get the power: If you use a test light on the extra plugs in the box under the tank you can find a switched power on the white round one (only lights when the key is on). Or, as mentioned just use the hot and ground already at the dashboard for the mini-outlet (un-switched).
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 09, 2015, 09:45:17 AM
I wouldn't worry about the LED. At 10ma, it will draw about 1% of a 25AHr battery's capacity per day. Probably take two weeks before you noticed the effect on the battery. What I would want to know is what the current drain is for the voltage regulator in the unit. It probably is on the order of microamps when in standby mode, but I'd put some sort of switch in the line to be safe.
I'm thinking now that the best route for me would be to install a regular lighter socket, and use one of the many 12v USB adapters I have accumulated that came with an old cell phone or some such. I can unplug when I am not using it and prevent the power draw. I must admit though, that your installation looks much cleanerr.
Post by: WayneDW on March 09, 2015, 07:49:09 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 09, 2015, 08:23:30 PM
Post by: WayneDW on March 09, 2015, 08:38:43 PM
Do you still have a link to the eBay posting for your outlet?
Yep: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231468805925?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 09, 2015, 09:34:57 PM
Post by: johnny on March 10, 2015, 03:40:28 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20150310_142927_zpsfa1l0s0i.jpg)
more later...
j o
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 14, 2015, 01:46:47 PM
They charged me for two tapered roller bearings and 2 "spacer for yoke" 's.
All seems well now.
Oh and I got the bike out of winter storage yesterday
Post by: Chaos on March 14, 2015, 02:09:35 PM
On another hand I got the K out of it's 4 month winter hibernation yesterday. Didn't even check the tire pressure, just unplugged the battery tender, rolled it out of the back of the garage and after about 4 seconds of cranking it fired and ran perfectly. What a great bike!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 14, 2015, 02:24:06 PM
Felt pretty good to be back in the saddle again.
Post by: Scott_ on March 14, 2015, 08:46:12 PM
Put the '97 on the lift today and checked valves-- ordered 5 cam buckets for it. In the mean time till they get here, I'll get the oils changed on it.
I changed the coolant last year so I'll give it a pass this year.
Post by: Elipten on March 14, 2015, 09:10:00 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 17, 2015, 02:00:41 PM
Only thing left now is new seals for the front master cylinder.
Post by: detbmw on March 17, 2015, 02:53:28 PM
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t446/detbmw/IMG_2084_zpsm11wfowy.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 17, 2015, 03:48:11 PM
Post by: archy99 on March 18, 2015, 08:20:50 PM
Got a new Pelican-style case (Seahorse SE-540 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AIXTQQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003AIXTQQ&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco&linkId=EZC6EVWCPIM26VSU)) with some custom foam (MyCaseBuilder.com) for carrying the cameras on the Hepco-Becker rear rack. It's a good fit. Previously I had a old Pelican with divider inserts and stuff would bounce around a lot in there. Wish I could find a quick-release for the case/rack.
Tim,
Hi to an almost-neighbor! New guy here...been browsing this thread for a couple of days, soaking it all up (thanks for a ton of great info everyone, and providing some much-needed incentive to fix a few long term gremlins), and joined just so I could respond to this. Now that you've let me in the door, I'm sure I'll be back often.
I added a similar trunk on my '94 K11RS a while back. Honestly have never quite understood the tiny ones we see on a lot of bikes...I wanted something that would take everything I could throw at it (including, like you, a ton of camera gear), and if i took the box off, actually have a fully functional and seriously capable flat rack. Since my wife had migrated to her own rig (the R75/7 in the pic), I opted to cover the rear seat with rack to keep the weight in a better spot. Working with a buddy who machined stuff in his garage, we fabbed up a big slab of aluminum with a stiffener/ledge along the front, and built a set of tool steel mount frames to slip behind the bag mounts, right to the subframe. Milled in some tie-down slots, coated it with Line-X, and powder-coated the frame pieces. The deck of the rack extends about 4-5" beyond the sides of the Pelican case, so longer items can be lashed easily next to the case. There is also room under the deck (above the bags) for sleeping bags, etc.
Lost a hard drive recently, so this is the only photo I seem to have where you can see it on the bike. I'll have to dig a bit to find some pre-digital photos of the thing loaded up for a long-ish solo trip. Best mod I ever made to the bike, truly...right behind putting my wife on her own bike, that is. :) It's hell for strong, since it doesn't mount to anything plastic or 'glass, and I can truthfully say that I have actually carried a pair of 80# bags of concrete on it....rode just like a good passenger. Have actually had a passenger on it once or twice, as well...just short trips to the liquor store at rallies, of course.
Cheers!
Geoff
Post by: billday on March 22, 2015, 10:29:35 AM
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/NotesParts/12411459567_1_B.jpg
No. 11, p/n 12 41 1 459 567, $14.71 from Max.
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000290.png?v=04282014
Thanks to everyone who posted about this in the past.
PS I did get it started, after rolling it backwards in 3rd a la Johnny, and the engine ran like I'd never put it to sleep. Yay! Dying to ride.
Post by: TimTyler on March 22, 2015, 10:44:15 AM
Let's ride the North Cascades Highway when the clearing crew opens it in a few week. :riding:
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 29, 2015, 01:39:00 PM
These engines probably last forever due to the massive oil filter. It's bigger than my 2.5L Subaru's filter and interchanges with engines up to Toyota's 4.7L V8. I don't see how they could ever clog up
Post by: richarddacat on March 29, 2015, 08:57:52 PM
I've got the nacelle hanging and waiting on headlight relays from Eastern Beaver.
Also relocated my horn from in front and below the radiator to behind the C-fairing.
Next rainy day project will be adding Led brake lights inside the taillight lens.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 29, 2015, 09:42:45 PM
Post by: Elipten on March 29, 2015, 10:33:41 PM
I also would like to know details on LED brake lights.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 29, 2015, 11:07:26 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201154322208?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370575124992?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Ya need a bracket to mount. This one goes on the radiator bracket. I swapped out for longer screws to hold it all together. I am not a draftsman as you might see.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 29, 2015, 11:17:47 PM
Cooler holds about 2/3 of a liter so the fuel is in it for about 40 seconds which I figure is plenty of time to transfer it's heat. Plumbing needs the hose barbs, about 15" of 5/16" hose and a couple clamps.
I got a piece of .120" stainless at a fab shop and laid out the cut lines. They cut it out for $20. I want to say the whole thing cost me about 75 bucks. Four 6mm x 12mm bolts hold the cooler to the bracket.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 29, 2015, 11:30:31 PM
Post by: richarddacat on March 30, 2015, 12:02:08 AM
I also would like to know details on LED brake lights.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3317
The Lieberry is required reading, don't miss out. [emoji1]
Good idea on drilling stainless, cheaper than a can of WD40 [emoji13]
Post by: Elipten on March 30, 2015, 01:27:32 AM
Post by: Elipten on March 30, 2015, 01:33:00 AM
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 30, 2015, 08:36:41 AM
Post by: johnny on March 30, 2015, 08:44:33 AM
template... this is not how a supernatural motobricker would do it...
a supernatural motobricker would tape a piece of old siding up there get on it with self tappers and snips...
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 30, 2015, 09:10:54 AM
Heat is an issue only in that on hot days the tank can get hot enough to literally barbecue my legs. Stop and go traffic, a tank bag and the RT's full fairing keep the heat in the tank where it radiates out the sides.
Since the heat off the tank is the most annoying thing about riding my bike, the cooler should make things quite a bit more pleasant, especially when I'm wanting to cover a lot of miles.
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 30, 2015, 09:37:37 AM
Post by: richarddacat on March 30, 2015, 09:00:44 PM
Rode to work and the front end feels much improved but I think I got oil on the brake pads.
Seemed a little better braking by the time I got there.
Post by: kris on March 30, 2015, 11:13:09 PM
Post by: Elipten on March 30, 2015, 11:41:09 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 30, 2015, 11:55:31 PM
Have you done the Johnny Blanket yet? Just did one on my K75RT. Along with the cooler I am hoping for a more comfortable ride when it's warm. Had the bike out a couple weeks ago, it was pretty cold, and I was getting no heat at all from the engine, so maybe I have done some good.
Post by: Elipten on March 31, 2015, 12:15:54 AM
Post by: zilla on March 31, 2015, 07:23:32 PM
Post by: billday on March 31, 2015, 08:11:54 PM
That one I know, what about LED replacement for factory lights in the tail light?
Hyperwhites
http://www.hyperlites.com/stdsf.html
There's more than one writeup here on Motobrick about how to install them in the empty spaces on either side of the taillight.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 31, 2015, 09:43:23 PM
Am looking for some red LED's in about a 1w output to put back there. Seen nothing I like so far. White doesn't work cuz it looks pink through the lens, which is part of the problem with the Hyperlites.
Post by: staffordworks on April 01, 2015, 12:16:20 PM
props to the tourmaster transition jacket though, my elbow and forearm would have been a mess without it and that was left unscathed. need leg armor.
:falldown: :musicboohoo:
Post by: beemuker on April 01, 2015, 05:56:48 PM
I decided to go ahead and file down the front of the head by fishtailing, flipping then laying it down on a steel ferry deck, it came out pretty nice but the blinker, headlight, saddle bag and most of all my knee didn't take such a good shine.Wow, and all I did was glue an extenda fender on. didn't even get any epoxy on my fingers. hope your knee is OK. harder to fix than the bike.
props to the tourmaster transition jacket though, my elbow and forearm would have been a mess without it and that was left unscathed. need leg armor.
:falldown: :musicboohoo:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2015, 06:50:57 PM
BTW, if anyone is looking for touchup paint for their brick I would highly recommend these guys:
http://www.cyclecolor.com/wwwroot/index.htm
The website is a bitch to navigate, but their matches are spot on. Perfect on my Mystic Red, which the local BASF Glasurite paint shop couldn't even match accurately. They sell a one part polyurethane that doesn't need catalyst. I do the base with a cheap Badger 250 airbrush and let the local collision shop do the clear with two part. $20 to clear my right side lower after I shoot about $5 of base. Results look better than factory. If I could get a good photo of this paint job I would post it, but my camera doesn't do it any justice. Seriously tempted to do the rest of the bike next winter.
Post by: johnny on April 01, 2015, 08:18:39 PM
it started 1st push and purred... let it idle till the fan came on... rode it around the block...
the black one has a hundert thou more on it than the blue one... whack aints it...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20150401_180111_zps3h69wacx.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20150401_180453_zpswgxebvev.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20150401_184857_zpstvkaiqlc.jpg)
j o
Post by: kris on April 01, 2015, 09:50:28 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 02, 2015, 05:39:27 PM
Fuel cooler must be working, can't feel any heat coming from tank.
Washed her and put her away as it started to rain. Talking snow again tomorrow.
Post by: Scott_ on April 02, 2015, 09:32:45 PM
Changed the oils, put the fairing lowers back on, got it ready to roll...........
Post by: zilla on April 03, 2015, 04:30:57 PM
The rear end and the trans were easy enough.
Rear end oil was pretty nasty, but no hard pieces on the drain plug, but lot's of fines.
The trans oil looked like it was new, and nothing on the drain plug.
The fun began when I went to change the engine oil.
Took the plate off to get to the oil filter. Simple enough.
I bought a filter wrench for it, but it had a lip on it that had to grind off.
Got that done and the filter was so tight, the wrench just slipped.
Well I got on here to see what I could do to get the damn thing off.
I ended up taking the oil pan off. It had been off before, judging by the old sealer on it.
Sorry for not taking pictures, but I was a little perturbed! :yes
Overall it wasn't a bad job. Maybe next weekend, i'll flush the cooling system.
The inside of the engine looked pretty good. But the best estimate I have on the mileage is around 45k.
I got everything cleaned up and resealed with Ultra Grey. I'll let it sit at least 24 hours before I fill the engine with oil.
Put a new filter on, and lightly tightened it down.
Hopefully I won't have to do that again anytime soon.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 03, 2015, 06:08:04 PM
Anyway, not being able to see if this filter is loose made me put a little extra torque on it when I installed it. Even then I was concerned about it loosening. Shouldn't have worried. Next change the damn thing felt like it was welded in place. Making it worse is that the housing is covered with oil.
Had to grab one of my wife's rubber cleaning gloves and put it over the end of the filter inside the wrench after wiping things down real good. A huge pull and the friggin thing finally gave up. After all that, I still couldn't make myself put it on looser than the last time. Am not looking forward to the next change.
Post by: zilla on April 03, 2015, 07:09:21 PM
Hope it's not as bad next time.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 03, 2015, 08:41:56 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 03, 2015, 08:52:32 PM
Yeah, the scary thing is that the filter could fall off and you would never know until you pulled the cover at the next oil change.
If the filter falls off you'll know it! Total loss of oil pressure and seized engine, I've seen it on a K75. Good trick for getting off a stuck filter is to run a couple sheet metal screws through the cap wrench into the filter.
Post by: pallum on April 03, 2015, 09:06:44 PM
Now I keep a nail in my tools just for removing the oil filters. Pop it into the filter around the edge and use that to turn the filter off. Allows you to sufficiently tighten the filter by hand so it won't fall out, but its a simple way to get it back off afterwards!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 03, 2015, 09:42:43 PM
Yeah, the scary thing is that the filter could fall off and you would never know until you pulled the cover at the next oil change.
If the filter falls off you'll know it! Total loss of oil pressure and seized engine, I've seen it on a K75. Good trick for getting off a stuck filter is to run a couple sheet metal screws through the cap wrench into the filter.
I kinda figgered that's what would happen.
Post by: enb54 on April 03, 2015, 09:43:21 PM
Post by: Jules on April 07, 2015, 08:30:43 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/Q8aOXbr.jpg)
To this:
(http://i.imgur.com/HyBISHD.jpg)
Lots more work to do.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 07, 2015, 08:42:30 AM
Next is to do the same job on the RS.
Post by: Novafrk on April 07, 2015, 03:00:48 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 07, 2015, 03:30:52 PM
Last night I changed the oil/filter. I pulled the rear master cyl as it was leaking fluid. A rebuild is in its very near future. Tomorrow night, (4H meeting tonight) front forks drain and fill, anti-squeal goop going on the brake pads too.
Just a suggestion for the future. It is much better for the engine to get the old oil out at the beginning of storage so the engine doesn't sit with that nasty oil in it all winter. Old oil has acids and stuff that plates out over long periods. Best to change the oil, add some stabilizer to the fuel and then run the engine until it warms up. Shut it down and put her to sleep for the winter.
Post by: Novafrk on April 07, 2015, 03:46:25 PM
I run MMO in my fuel and oil. Swear by that stuff. I had a snow blower sit for two years, didn't have enough snow to use it. Third winter, 3rd pull fired right up and ran like a top. My fleet of motorcycles have all acted the same way. That said I usually get mine out a few times each over the winter Here in Indy it's not uncommon to ride up into Jan., depending on the snow and ice. They really only sit for 2-3 months completely inactive.
Thanks for the advice though. I greatly appreciate the sharing of knowledge and experiences. Cheers! :riding:
Post by: johnny on April 07, 2015, 08:08:47 PM
since i needs some money for ammo... decided to go cheep and give the shenko podiums a go on the brick of the corn... its a 1up moto... should be interesting...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/1Cell14/IMG_20150407_183311_zpsvlu3p5ei.jpg)
j o
Post by: kris on April 13, 2015, 10:07:34 AM
Post by: RobP on April 13, 2015, 12:15:09 PM
Quote
She went from pieces to a pretty nice looking 29 year old beast
Nice! Looks great!
Over the weekend, I finished up my spline lube project, then changed oil in the engine, trans and final drive. Changed the brake fluid front and back. Fixed my loose exhaust heat shield using a NOS BMW heat shield repair kit.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2015, 11:03:35 PM
Today I chased down an intermittent electrical problem on my RT. Using the brakes caused a momentary total shut down of the bike's electrical system. Rebuilt the starter, checked the battery, BMU, ABS, a lot of wiring, cleaned a lot of already clean electrical connections and replaced all the bulbs in the back end of the bike.
Problem is gone now, and I haven't a clue what I did to fix it.
Post by: kris on April 14, 2015, 07:17:11 AM
Went from this:(http://i.imgur.com/Q8aOXbr.jpg)
To this:(http://i.imgur.com/HyBISHD.jpg)
Lots more work to do.
Today, I finished the spring service on the '97.
Changed the oils, put the fairing lowers back on, got it ready to roll...........
Post by: F14CRAZY on April 17, 2015, 07:32:06 PM
Post by: Scott_ on April 17, 2015, 09:53:33 PM
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 18, 2015, 12:13:55 PM
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 19, 2015, 09:06:33 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 19, 2015, 09:10:38 PM
Post by: kris on April 19, 2015, 09:38:51 PM
Post by: billday on April 20, 2015, 08:07:01 AM
Fixed my loose exhaust heat shield using a NOS BMW heat shield repair kit.
Rob, did that kit repair/workaround the brackets welded on the muffler? If so can you share where you found it? Thanks Bill
Post by: rbm on April 20, 2015, 08:37:42 AM
Installing a BMW Muffler Repair Kit P/N95009000390 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1411-installing-a-bmw-muffler-repair-kit-p-n-95009000390)
Installing a BMW Muffler Repair Kit Re-visited (http://www.k100-forum.com/t3741-installing-a-bmw-muffler-repair-kit-p-n-95009000390-re-visited)
The kit is unobtainium now, but the inserts should be available through industrial fastener supply houses. Research is needed because the BMW compression inserts are CLOSE-ENDED; many similar ones are open-ended.
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 20, 2015, 09:35:31 AM
Am I the only one who wants to know how you got that bike up on your wooden workbench?I'm kinda surprised no comment from you on the "Little Cod" fishing boat stove in the background ...
I have a 440/880 lb electric hoist. Got it from Princess Auto (Canadian equivalent to Harbor Freight). It hangs from a dolly running on a barn door track attached to the 16' ceiling. Yes, I've had the brick up on the mezzanine too. :yes
Post by: RobP on April 20, 2015, 10:09:17 AM
Quote
Rob, did that kit repair/workaround the brackets welded on the muffler? If so can you share where you found it?
Sorry for the delay - I just now saw your question.
I found the repair kit on ebay - there are a couple more available at item 201296235900
You will need to grind off the existing square 'cages' that held the original nuts. I used a flap disc on a 4" grinder and they were gone in no time. I also had to grind off some big fugly mounds of brass brazing that the PO had tried to use to hold on some nuts.
For future reference if the kits are NLA - the kit basically contains a set of M6 socket head machine screws, wave washers, M6 rivet nuts, and round spacers to raise the heat shield off the muffler. As Robert said, you could probably assemble your own kit with an online visit to your favorite industrial parts store. You also will need a metric hand rivet nut tool to compress the rivet nuts. I used an Astro Pneumatic Tool 1427 - also available on ebay.
The rivet nuts need a 3/8" hole drilled at each location. As the original thread mentioned, you may need to drill into internal pipes at one or two locations. The front stud mount on my muffler was in good shape so I left that in place and used it as the baseline reference. I mounted the rivet nuts one at a time and checked the alignment of the heat shield using the spacers under the heat shield after each fitment. (Keeping in mind that the holes will be oriented differently than if you just held the heat shield flat on the muffler and marked holes without the spacers in place.)
For final installation, I used copper anti-seize on the inside of each rivet nut.
Post by: billday on April 20, 2015, 01:06:06 PM
QuoteRob, did that kit repair/workaround the brackets welded on the muffler? If so can you share where you found it?
Sorry for the delay - I just now saw your question.
I found the repair kit on ebay - there are a couple more available at item 201296235900
Great find! Thanks!
Post by: Novafrk on April 20, 2015, 06:56:04 PM
I installed progressive springs afterwards. WOW what a huge difference!!! The 10w oil might help too. I think I'm ready for my trip to NC this Friday! Just to load up and hit the bricks.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 20, 2015, 08:23:57 PM
As for myself, just finished polishing my "new" Parabellum windshield and putting it on Ilsa. With any luck, tomorrow night we'll be sleeping somewhere just west of Chicago.
Post by: WayneDW on April 20, 2015, 09:11:20 PM
Post by: Novafrk on April 20, 2015, 09:52:42 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 20, 2015, 10:13:18 PM
That's a nice looking windshield! I need one of those. Mine looks like it's 23 years old!
Just picked it up for $20 + shipping on eBay. Polished with Novus 2 fine scratch remover. A few drops rubbed in with your fingertips until it dries enough to drag, then buff with a towel. Takes about 3-4 minutes per side. I did this one about 5-6 times on each side before I had to quit because the skin was wearing off my fingers.
Nice thing about the Parabellum is that it doesn't have any anti-scratch coating, so the acrylic is easy to polish. The OEM windshields have what I suspect to be a two part polyurethane clearcoat to prevent scratches. That clearcoat is a bitch to polish once it gets scratched.
Post by: WayneDW on April 21, 2015, 09:13:19 PM
Wow, good for you! I can attest to the OEM windshield being hard to polish. I've tried and have gotten no where.That's a nice looking windshield! I need one of those. Mine looks like it's 23 years old!
Just picked it up for $20 + shipping on eBay. Polished with Novus 2 fine scratch remover. A few drops rubbed in with your fingertips until it dries enough to drag, then buff with a towel. Takes about 3-4 minutes per side. I did this one about 5-6 times on each side before I had to quit because the skin was wearing off my fingers.
Nice thing about the Parabellum is that it doesn't have any anti-scratch coating, so the acrylic is easy to polish. The OEM windshields have what I suspect to be a two part polyurethane clearcoat to prevent scratches. That clearcoat is a bitch to polish once it gets scratched.
Post by: Novafrk on April 21, 2015, 09:16:29 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 22, 2015, 09:44:02 PM
Post by: johnny on April 23, 2015, 07:51:06 AM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/HEAT/1604zebracocobolo_zps2ks44z8i.jpeg)
j o
Post by: Jumpin Jimmy B on April 23, 2015, 01:43:10 PM
Was running Red Line Synthetic Shock proof gear oil. Looks like Peto Bismol. Put this in last year, maybe 9,000 miles ago. So really no need to do it again, BUT!!!
I felt the shifting was getting a little stickier, and no it does not need a spline lube right now. This was better when the bike was good and warm, but where I live that's
still a while away.
So I went back to Mobil 1 synthetic 75-140 with MOS2 powder, 1.5 oz. I put both into an old blender an frappe that chit till it's mixed up real good. Refill trans to correct level,
put in the fill plug and go for ride.
Within less that 10 miles noticeable shift up AND down through gears improvement.
On my ride to work this morning it was 29 degrees. Bike shifts excellent right from the get go and stays that way.
Later....
Post by: billday on May 03, 2015, 08:45:31 AM
QuoteRob, did that kit repair/workaround the brackets welded on the muffler? If so can you share where you found it?
Sorry for the delay - I just now saw your question.
I found the repair kit on ebay - there are a couple more available at item 201296235900
Great find! Thanks!
Did this repair yesterday. Very satisfying to have my heat shield back on -- I never thought it would happen -- thanks RobP for finding that kit.
Now that I have that fancy rivet tool, I need some projects that call for rivets.
Post by: mjydrafter on May 04, 2015, 06:49:09 PM
Started the adjustment/check on Sunday. #1 Intake was out a bit, and all 3 exhaust valves were tight. Picked up some new shims at Kawasaki this morning and got them all in spec.
Just need the rain to quit, so I can go warm it up and do a throttle balance. :yes
Post by: k75_cafe on May 05, 2015, 07:41:29 AM
Post by: WayneDW on May 05, 2015, 08:42:46 PM
charged the battery and tried to bring back the bike after 4 years of sleep. Found that it tries to start without the key and without me pushing anything. Ghost in the machine ?Starter relay is stuck in the closed position. Do a search for repair.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2015, 11:12:23 PM
Now I have to put new tires and do a spline lube on the 75 for inspection this month and figure out why the high beam setting on my driving lights switch doesn't work. Spare rear master cylinder is out for resleeving and will be swapped next week when it comes back.
Then, with any luck it's a summer of yeehaw on two bricks.
Post by: bocutter Ed on May 11, 2015, 05:29:59 PM
Am I the only one who wants to know how you got that bike up on your wooden workbench?
BTW, front wheel's held up by a General 350 TS. :dunno
k75newb did say the tranny he gave wasn't shifting properly, but I figured I'd take a chance and see what, if anything was wrong with it. Definitely a problem with 2nd. Rode it for a tankful then back on the bench. Opened both trannies to get the gear selector shaft swapped into mine. The problem with k75newb's tranny turned out to be a missing roller on the 1-2 shift fork (roller which fits in the shift drum).
Post by: Crapdealerbob on May 14, 2015, 11:05:24 AM
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/crapdealerbob/2015%20Canyon%20de%20Chelly%20%20May/43_zps1x4qupfc.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/crapdealerbob/media/2015%20Canyon%20de%20Chelly%20%20May/43_zps1x4qupfc.jpg.html)
Post by: F14CRAZY on May 22, 2015, 11:03:35 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 22, 2015, 11:53:20 PM
Post by: pdg on May 29, 2015, 08:29:32 PM
Post by: kryder on May 30, 2015, 11:38:45 PM
Post by: WayneDW on May 31, 2015, 08:55:27 AM
Today I loaded my K75S for a journey. I leave early tomorrow.You live at the front door of some of the best riding in the nation. Where would you go!?
Seriously, have a great trip (where are you going?)
w
Post by: kryder on May 31, 2015, 09:29:40 AM
Post by: HYPERR on May 31, 2015, 10:43:40 AM
Montana! I will also be visiting Utah, Wyoming and Idaho.
Wyoming is amazing! IMO the most beautiful state in the contiguous US 48 states.
Post by: johnny on May 31, 2015, 11:16:18 AM
j o
Post by: koapono on June 04, 2015, 06:07:29 AM
I'll be rolling through on US Route 2 in a couple weeks.
Post by: kryder on June 04, 2015, 04:13:21 PM
Post by: Slaw on June 04, 2015, 11:13:41 PM
Post by: TimTyler on June 05, 2015, 12:14:45 AM
I'll be rolling through on US Route 2 in a couple weeks.
Gimme a cupla days notice and I'll roll out there if I can.
Post by: ckp on June 05, 2015, 11:05:23 PM
Post by: bizzaro on June 06, 2015, 08:53:37 AM
See Ya On the Road,
Bizz
Post by: billday on June 06, 2015, 01:16:32 PM
Post by: RobP on June 06, 2015, 05:26:16 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 07, 2015, 09:12:46 PM
Full repaint: basecoat and clearcoat. Came out great!
Pitchures!
Post by: bizzaro on June 08, 2015, 05:19:43 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 10, 2015, 11:35:56 PM
I didn't like how the pads were wanting to bed into the rotor, so I ordered calliper rebuild kits from Motobins(can't buy them in the states).
So tonight I installed the 1st kit for the rear of the '95. Was pretty straight forward and simple. Pistons extend and retract nice and easy now.
.... much, much better grip and the initial wear pattern is looking good.
Next are the front's.
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on June 12, 2015, 10:25:29 PM
Second real day of riding this season, I was out tooling around rural Minnesota, when I noticed that when I hit the brakes, the battery light came on, and the tach dropped to zero (engine still turning of course) When I let go of the brakes, the dials came back up and the battery light turned off. The battery is fairly new, but I'll have to pull it tonight to check it out.
When I stopped at my destination to look around, the bike wouldn't start. wouldn't turn over. Really sounds like a battery. I had to pop the clutch to start it. thank god It was still warm, or I would never have started it.
Post by: Zipster on June 13, 2015, 06:03:30 PM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on June 13, 2015, 07:21:14 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 14, 2015, 06:16:14 PM
The new kits for the front came with 4 new pistons and all 8 seals, yet the rear kits have the seals and dust rings as well as new bolts and o-ring for splitting the caliper(which I did not do.....) but no pistons....... and none of the caliper kits came with the crush seal rings for the brake line banjo connection.
So now I have much better brakes, almost new..... and another fresh fluid flush.
Next will be the '97 both front and rear.
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on June 14, 2015, 06:34:25 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 14, 2015, 11:16:04 PM
It's nice to be able to stop...
You can say that again. I will say I have a hare more lever travel, but I also now have more brake grab than I had previous.
At this point I'm relating the increased lever travel to all 8 pistons now moving equally, rather than the 4-5 that weren't sticking previously.......
It's a good thing that the new kits came with pistons, I had to take pliers to 3-4 of the old ones to get them out.. Very stiff.
I'm going to ride a couple more days and bleed again, just to be anal about it, but I'm pretty sure that there isn't any air in the lines.
Post by: kris on June 15, 2015, 07:36:52 AM
Post by: billday on June 15, 2015, 01:19:30 PM
Today was the front calipers on the '95.
The new kits for the front came with 4 new pistons and all 8 seals, yet the rear kits have the seals and dust rings as well as new bolts and o-ring for splitting the caliper(which I did not do.....) but no pistons....... and none of the caliper kits came with the crush seal rings for the brake line banjo connection.
So now I have much better brakes, almost new..... and another fresh fluid flush.
Next will be the '97 both front and rear.
Scott, can you post info about the rebuild kits you got?
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on June 15, 2015, 09:45:15 PM
Also, it's crazy how difficult it is to find 7.5 amp fuses!
Post by: Scott_ on June 15, 2015, 11:54:45 PM
Today was the front calipers on the '95.
The new kits for the front came with 4 new pistons and all 8 seals, yet the rear kits have the seals and dust rings as well as new bolts and o-ring for splitting the caliper(which I did not do.....) but no pistons....... and none of the caliper kits came with the crush seal rings for the brake line banjo connection.
So now I have much better brakes, almost new..... and another fresh fluid flush.
Next will be the '97 both front and rear.
Scott, can you post info about the rebuild kits you got?
The caliper kits came from Motobins as you cannot source them(not that I was able to find) in the states.
https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100
The Master cylinder kits I got from Beemerboneyard..till supplies last then they will not be restocking them.
Quoted from their website..
DUE TO THE RECENT LAWSUIT BROUGHT BY BMW AGAINST MAGURA, ONCE OUR CURRENT STOCK OF MAGURA PRODUCTS IS GONE WE WILL NO LONGER BE ABLE TO SELL ANY BMW SPECIFIC MAGURA PRODUCTS.
So get them while you can.........without paying BMW markup or install labor.
Post by: billday on June 16, 2015, 10:35:15 PM
Post by: slipring on June 18, 2015, 08:00:56 PM
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/battery%20hold-down%20x%200.5_zpsepnm43aj.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/battery%20hold-down%20x%200.5_zpsepnm43aj.jpg.html)
Post by: F14CRAZY on June 20, 2015, 09:36:33 PM
Also replaced the clutch cable. I didn't like how engagement was pretty "far out" and the FSM instructions for adjustment made things worse, so I figured it was stretched too much. I spent a total of $44.21 at BMW of Grand Rapids for a new one. I opted for the longer version as I have bar risers. Both cables were in stock though.
I also replaced all the external fuel lines on the bike...the recent account of andwew's K75 catching fire and exploding and some cracks in the old lines convinced me to replace them.
Post by: Elipten on June 20, 2015, 11:08:02 PM
Post by: billday on June 22, 2015, 09:43:30 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391125969306?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I already have the Hyperlights 16-LED units in the empty chambers on either side of the brake light/taillight housing. I attached one of these little 3-LED units to the side of each Hyperlight, and wired them into the brake light circuit. A nice improvement for 3 bucks. Sorry no pictures, but I'm lazy.
Post by: slipring on June 26, 2015, 03:11:14 PM
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20150624_202253%20x%200.50_zps6fu5cwb7.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20150624_202253%20x%200.50_zps6fu5cwb7.jpg.html)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 27, 2015, 09:53:30 AM
Wanting to beef up my brake light conspicuity, I bought these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391125969306?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I already have the Hyperlights 16-LED units in the empty chambers on either side of the brake light/taillight housing. I attached one of these little 3-LED units to the side of each Hyperlight, and wired them into the brake light circuit. A nice improvement for 3 bucks. Sorry no pictures, but I'm lazy.
Just curious since I would like to add more LED's to my brake light. Is there any problem with the bulb monitor unit with all those extra LED's back there?
Post by: Scott_ on June 27, 2015, 11:36:17 AM
If you are removing and replacing the stock lamp with LED's, you have the option of removing the BMU unit altogether and bypassing it, and you also have the option of leaving the BMU and installing a small load resistor to "fake out" the BMU unit but it will be just as disabled as if you removed it..........
Post by: Scott_ on June 27, 2015, 11:40:58 AM
Checked the rear caliper on the '97, both pistons move with no drag, so I'll keep the seal kit for another day.
Installed new pads on both bikes front and rear, with the caliper renewal in last few weeks so all should be good with the brakes now for quite a number of miles.....
Now to do some riding......... yea haw... :riding:
Post by: slipring on June 27, 2015, 02:18:40 PM
Just curious, what kind of pads do you like (pad composition and brand)?
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on June 27, 2015, 10:44:06 PM
Post by: Scott_ on June 28, 2015, 08:26:31 AM
Scott_,
Just curious, what kind of pads do you like (pad composition and brand)?
Well, I like the Kevlar organic pads(Volar Motorsport VBP162, VBP140-FR-3) from D2moto(e-bay seller), but they are not a real exact fit....... I have to take my dremel to the front pad backing plate to get them to fit in the calipers. The rears fit just fine.
For the price($15 for a complete set front and rear), I can handle a little dremel time to fit them.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 28, 2015, 12:15:56 PM
One tip, use some anti-squeal on the back of them to prevent squealing when lightly braking at low speeds.
Post by: slipring on June 28, 2015, 06:06:35 PM
Thanks for suggestions. I recently installed a new EBC MD611 rear brake rotor and EBC FA18 pads (with CRC Disc Brake Quiet) in rear calipers. The FA18 pads (from fleaBay) are supposed to be organic/kevlar, but they did have what looks like metal flakes in the pad composition. I still have a bit of squeal with rear brakes (though much less than before). Two months ago I installed EBC FA171 pads (again, with CRC Disc Brake Quiet) in both front calipers and that brake system is now dead quiet. I don't recall the front ones looking like the rear ones in photos below. Is it possible that these were packaged incorrectly and what I just installed are actually of the "sintered" variety?
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20150623_193707%20x%200.50_zpswbrzpsls.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20150623_193707%20x%200.50_zpswbrzpsls.jpg.html)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20150622_213523%20x%200.50_zps5zhjihbi.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20150622_213523%20x%200.50_zps5zhjihbi.jpg.html)
Post by: chico on June 29, 2015, 12:31:20 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/29/2f5c2e99bfc1dcb43c65e85c8e9eea6a.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/29/1e45ed1a6d1919a92cf310744a473554.jpg)
Post by: chico on June 29, 2015, 12:45:28 PM
Two questions:
1. Will the newer style luggage latches with the round locks fit in place of the older style, flat latches?
2. The stock fork springs had plastic/nylon bushings on both ends. I wasn't sure whether to use them with the new springs or not, so I just used the ones on the bottom. The top rests against the PVC spacer I cut so I figured I didn't need one there. Is this 'correct'? I took it for a quick spin and I am so pleased with the results. Can't wait to get out this weekend.
Thanks again!
Post by: zilla on June 29, 2015, 07:41:51 PM
Waited three weeks for the fuel sender gasket and that didn't fix the problem.
Now it looks like I need to find a no longer available sender.
Post by: rbm on June 30, 2015, 10:11:17 AM
Post by: zilla on June 30, 2015, 04:37:28 PM
Have you tried to refurbish the old sender yet?
Refurbish?
it appears I have the earlier style sender. Not the one that has the float.
Post by: rbm on June 30, 2015, 05:00:03 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 10, 2015, 07:59:41 PM
https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062908642908/?l=3786911484592939495 (https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062908642908/?l=3786911484592939495)
And after:
https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062910472908/?l=1816469787528912004 (https://www.facebook.com/f14crazy/videos/10154062910472908/?l=1816469787528912004)
I don't think the video quite does it justice...it's LOUD
(https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11403374_10154062911857908_515171419992508607_n.jpg?oh=bd912898020ccf0043c229227816d910&oe=560E3E1A)
Can't really see it up there unless you're looking for it
Post by: bizzaro on July 10, 2015, 09:13:18 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 10, 2015, 11:03:11 PM
Prolly should consider changing those sneakers. Really! :curvy-road
I have a 9:30 appointment tomorrow morning to have the front and rear replaced :riding: Trying out Shinko 712's
Post by: bizzaro on July 11, 2015, 09:14:22 AM
Post by: K75RT Keith on July 13, 2015, 02:09:09 PM
Post by: Scott_ on July 13, 2015, 06:02:02 PM
I'm going to try the 150/70 size again, but move the center stand spacers and see how much it helps with placing it on the center stand.
Post by: herseyb on July 13, 2015, 09:26:40 PM
I need to figure out which kit to get to rewire the headlight. Those stock wires are scary skinny.
Post by: billday on July 13, 2015, 09:52:16 PM
Ordered new tyres (should be here wednesday). replaced the tail light. Installed polished headlight lens.
I need to figure out which kit to get to rewire the headlight. Those stock wires are scary skinny.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#h4single
Post by: herseyb on July 13, 2015, 11:33:27 PM
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#h4single
Ordered, thanks!
I also reduced my rebound dampening 4 clicks after reading the ohlins manual, and ordered the seal that goes between the gas tank and the cap assembly.
Mine has chunks missing, and the tank is chalky looking underneath... Gotta figure out how to clean that off without getting the AL salts in the tank. I can hear the tank wheezing after it gets up to pressure when i turn off the engine.
Post by: beemuker on July 17, 2015, 11:14:39 AM
Post by: beemuker on July 17, 2015, 11:15:33 AM
Post by: billday on July 17, 2015, 10:30:59 PM
Want to give a shout out to Beemer Boneyard. I placed my order around 4:00pm, it shipped that afternoon and I had my new battery in less than 24 hours via UPS ground. Not everyone is as close to them as me, but they really take care of things. Plus (for all you new K-bike lovers), if they say a service part will fit your machine, it will fit your machine.
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on July 18, 2015, 01:46:11 AM
Last time I rode I noticed gas wetting the side of the engine! . Finally got it sorted out. Luckily it was just the gas line going to the injectors . It had a tiny split up by the tank, Went to NAPA and bought a foot of high pressure line and I'm back in the saddle without a flamethrower.
Don't forget the other two gas lines going to the fuel pressure regulator!
Post by: Scott_ on July 19, 2015, 06:47:08 AM
Like last time I tried to mount a 150/70, I couldn't get the tire bead to seat. Ended up taking it to a local bike shop(again) and was able to get it seated in about 5 minutes.........
Moved the center stand spacers and yes it is easier now to put it up on the stand. BUT, since the stand mount is now approx 1/4" closer to the transmission, it also raised the side stand as much so the lean angle is just a tad more as well.......
Now I suppose it's time to make a little spacer block for the bottom foot of the side stand to bring the lean angle back up, without interfering with the center stand when all folded up.
Post by: chico on July 19, 2015, 01:28:41 PM
Post by: bizzaro on July 19, 2015, 08:17:57 PM
Post by: Glacial on July 21, 2015, 02:11:02 AM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on July 21, 2015, 02:23:01 AM
Post by: bizzaro on July 22, 2015, 09:26:04 PM
Post by: bizzaro on July 23, 2015, 06:13:49 AM
How tough was the spline job for first time? Did you drop the engine or just the tranny and clutch? I am trying to gear up to it.(pun intended) The guy I got my bike from said he had just done them.............................but he did some other stuff I had to fix as well! :falldown: So I am thinking I should get a look at um to be sure. Can you link me to the best step by step here that you found? And what was your lube of choice?
Thanks,
Bizz
Post by: chico on July 23, 2015, 09:23:00 AM
All I did was the rear drive and the back end of the drive shaft. I work on the sidewalk in the city and didn't want to get in too deep and have the sun go down on me. However, now that I have done that and seen how simple and quickly it can be done, I'll be going back in to remove the swing arm to get to the other end of the drive shaft and the (clutch output...?) splines at that end. I haven't gone so far as to pull the clutch and transmission to get those splines but with the videos I linked, it doesn't look all that difficult.
I used Guard Dog 525 which is a molybdenum synthetic lube.
Post by: TimTyler on July 23, 2015, 11:08:10 AM
The second time you do it you'll probably finish in 5 hours if you're organized.
Post by: chico on July 23, 2015, 11:21:13 AM
Post by: bizzaro on July 23, 2015, 09:48:23 PM
I have seen this guys effin, effin, then take the effin off of the effin effin effin. then goe to the other side and do the same effin thing that efffn side. not offended, just amazed at the limits of his vocabulary compared to his Brick knowledge. W T F(tee hee) is that about. You think his old lady likes dirty talk? Anyway, I digress!
:hehehe
So my old floor/launch and landing pad to my newer and improvider floor/launch and landing pad. My brother has a nice garage but all my tools are here! :dunno
Post by: Scott_ on July 23, 2015, 10:43:39 PM
Some saw-horses with 2x4 will suffice to hold up the back end of the bike.
Here's a mental image for you to think of, basically you are removing most everything behind the engine short of the frame and tail plastic.
The first time I did the clutch splines on my '97 it took me a full 2 days on a weekend. I had no table lift at that time so I had to build a 4x4 frame to hold the front wheel and forks to keep it upright. I also suspended the back of the bike from my garage rafters as opposed to saw horses......
Since then I acquired a powered table lift so I'm not working on my knees anymore.
Post by: bizzaro on July 23, 2015, 11:11:51 PM
So is it almost as easy just to drop the engine out to do the splines? I guess not considering all the component connections to the engine? And the Clutch splines need to be lubed? It is a dry clutch...................????? Sorry once again for my newbieism ignorance. I am like a child with a new toy and fascinated by its essence. I will probably do the splines in my brothers where I can suspend the bike from the rafters and stabilize the bike at the same time. I am contemplating a trip to CO from VT and have a lot of ground to cover before I go. This bike runs pretty well but pretty much sat for 10 years. The guy I got it from put 1k on it in that time. Running rich, spider web like carbon off the tail pipe. Idle a bit irregular, and the a bit sluggish till I hit 5600 rpm.............................then it is like a turbo kicks in..............holy crap! LOVE THIS BIKE!!!!! I want it running tip top.
Post by: herseyb on July 23, 2015, 11:31:15 PM
Post by: Scott_ on July 24, 2015, 07:16:09 AM
Yes, it is a dry clutch, but the clutch friction disk connects to the splined input shaft of the transmission, this connection needs to be lubricated so the disk can "float" on this shaft when the pressure plate is depressed. When this disk can't float properly it will cause the transmission shafts to turn with more "power" and will cause you difficulties when downshifting.
Personally I think it is still easier to leave the engine in frame and disconnect the stuff from the back.
In the mean time get yourself some seafoam and run it with the gas to help clean up the injectors and such. I use about 5-6oz per full tank. This can't hurt, and will potentially help with your rich running mixture.
Another possibility could be the water temp sensor not reading correctly, but I'd run with the seafoam 1st as it's the easiest and should be done anyway..........
Also be checking your vacuum hoses and other rubber bits as they do dry up and crack and leak which leads to running issues.
To be honest, you could start a new thread for your project here. It would get more views and thoughts of help as well.
Post by: chico on July 24, 2015, 09:39:12 AM
Please correct me if I'm wrong as I am just learning this stuff too.
At that stage, you could pop off the drive shaft and lube the other end of that also. However, at this stage, you will not have access to (in order from the drive shaft toward the front of the bike): the clutch friction plate splines, transmission output splines located at the right rear of the transmission or the transmission input splines on the front or engine side of the transmission. If you remove the swing arm, which doesn't involve much extra work, you can access the clutch friction plate splines. For the rest, you must remove the clutch pack and transmission which requires removing the center stand, supporting the bike and a significant amount more time and effort.
Excellent explanation: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=490.0
More: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/inputsplinesthrowout.htm
General Information:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,339.0.html
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,370.0.html
I agree with Scott_ A new thread would be a great way to document what you are doing and get more/better feedback. Nice looking bike, btw.
Post by: bizzaro on July 24, 2015, 10:28:51 AM
Thanks for all the info. Great help. I am, was going to start a new thread but kinda landed on Chicos current spline jop and it kinda grew outa that! Especialy the briefs on what you did Chico. And I have been using sea foam, techron concentrate, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Seperatly and together. Going to try n get a look at the air filter soon and sync throttle bodies. Trying to close here, but, for me, good answers just lead to more questions! like aren't the final drive splines getting lubed with the final drive. Ok. Time for me to get back to searching, and reading my manuals! I am going to call the guy I bought it from need how far he got into it and when. Thanks again guys.
See Ya in the twisties,
Bizz
Post by: Scott_ on July 24, 2015, 06:28:15 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=490.0
As you read it, remember that Chico has a Monolever, which is different than your Paralever. So there is some differences.
Post by: Tuco on July 24, 2015, 08:40:36 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 24, 2015, 10:32:35 PM
Post by: bizzaro on July 26, 2015, 10:06:47 PM
I mounted my mirrors high and outside on the glass. Not sure if I will leave them on? They really don't help much! Really tiny and distant image! I would probably hear the vehicle before i saw it in the mirrors and it hit me from behind, rather than see it, and it would show up in the mirrors after the collision! :falldown:
Post by: billday on July 27, 2015, 05:40:05 PM
Prying the fan off the old motor was a job. But when I put the fan on the new motor: no friction at all. So I put a dollop of JB Weld on the hole and slid the fan on. Should be good for a while.
By the way, anyone who says the OEM fans are no good should give it a rethink. That sucker worked for 30 years -- what more could you ask for? It's interesting to note that the new Bosch fan is identical to the one they made in 1984. The only difference I could see was the "Made in W. Germany" stamp now reads "Made in Hungary."
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/kfanmtr0427.html
Post by: herseyb on July 27, 2015, 11:40:15 PM
...and while adjusting the headlight angle I forgot to kick the sidestand up before pulling the clutch in and broke about half of the clutch cable.
:musicboohoo:
Post by: TimTyler on July 28, 2015, 01:13:58 AM
... forgot to kick the sidestand up before pulling the clutch in and broke about half of the clutch cable.
Johnny hates when that happens. :yes
Post by: koapono on July 29, 2015, 08:24:21 AM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on August 05, 2015, 01:56:38 AM
Post by: ts888 on August 06, 2015, 12:12:45 AM
Post by: K75RT Keith on August 07, 2015, 04:58:54 PM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on August 07, 2015, 08:10:31 PM
Post by: Chaos on August 09, 2015, 12:10:28 AM
Post by: ts888 on August 10, 2015, 01:41:53 AM
This time I spent a bit more time, and what did I discover? Some Dagwood put sili-snot on the case where the front cover mates to the head. :machinegun: :bang-head: :swear:
That was causing the gasket to squeege out of place and open up the leak again. If I am ever given three wishes, I may spend two of them on having all the sili-snot in the world collected and smooshed into the orifices of whatever marketing dipschitt decided to sell that crap as gasket sealer. I don't use it on toilets, let alone my vehicles!
I cleaned that crap off, cleaned the gasket, the cover, and the head, and put it all together again. Then a 3 hour ride, and it's REALLY not leaking now.
Post by: TimTyler on August 11, 2015, 01:35:50 PM
Installed new EBC brake rotor.
Replaced rusty ol' muffler clamp screw. There's just enough clearance between the clamp and the gearbox to slip a playing card through. No more. Seems like an awfully tight spec. Filing down the washer doesn't help either.
Just waiting for the UPS guy to show up with fresh brake pads.
Post by: bizzaro on August 11, 2015, 08:41:56 PM
Post by: jensk on August 12, 2015, 04:48:57 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 13, 2015, 07:21:33 AM
Post by: TimTyler on August 13, 2015, 08:19:22 AM
Installed in 5 minutes.
Post by: bizzaro on August 19, 2015, 08:50:20 PM
Post by: jay1622 on August 20, 2015, 03:15:42 PM
Post by: herseyb on August 20, 2015, 05:11:49 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on August 21, 2015, 10:13:37 PM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on August 22, 2015, 02:51:43 AM
I was sitting on it wishing I was out riding, and when I leaned forward it seemed the front end sank a little too easily. I decided to see how much the front end would fall if all my weight were forward, and put my knee on the tank forward near the handlebars. The tank is made of aluminum. I am not a smart man, nor a very lightweight man. SHIT! ..dented.
Breathe... it's already happened. It is what it is.
Post by: Tuco on August 22, 2015, 08:45:20 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 22, 2015, 09:39:12 AM
Checked compression, and it's high and balanced on all cylinders. Looks like a just broken in engine.
Plugs are a bit oil fouled on cylinders 2,3,and4 but I expected that since the bike is using a bit of oil. That's why I'm doing the valve stem seals.
Did a throttle body balance as long as I was in there. Must have made a difference as the engine idles a tiny bit smoother and is running cooler now.
Bike still breaks up a little below 3000rpm when accelerating with small throttle openings. Will need to do a CO test and O2 sensor adjustment when I put the new exhaust on next week.
I will be selling the Remus exhaust that came with the bike. Very good condition with mounting hardware. Asking $250 + shipping. PM me if interested.
Post by: Snowy Mountains Mick on August 23, 2015, 04:54:22 AM
Post by: K75RT Keith on August 23, 2015, 08:56:52 PM
Post by: Snowy Mountains Mick on August 24, 2015, 02:33:30 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 24, 2015, 08:23:34 AM
For example, I was quoted $1200 to paint the parts for a K100RS, $500 if I did the prep, and $150 to shoot the clear over my base coat. Cost of the base coat paint was $90.
Base coat is pretty easy since it's the clear that provides all the gloss and depth to the finish. As long as you use the same gun settings, air pressure and spray technique you can shoot your parts a couple at a time. I did mine in twp groups: fairing in one group and the tank, side covers and tail in another.
Post by: K75RT Keith on August 24, 2015, 08:40:09 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 24, 2015, 12:42:51 PM
For a promise of a good color match and a C note to do all 3 pieces and the needed repairs, I took the gamble. Beside it is a spare set of lowers so no big deal if it isn't right.
Wow, that is an amazing price!
Post by: K75RT Keith on August 24, 2015, 01:17:08 PM
Post by: subforry on August 24, 2015, 01:28:53 PM
Tip: Don't be lazy like me, look in the tool kit for the lug wrench extender before tenderizing the palm of your hand.
Post by: K75RT Keith on August 24, 2015, 01:39:29 PM
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 24, 2015, 09:36:34 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 24, 2015, 10:10:11 PM
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 25, 2015, 08:07:35 AM
Steamed asparagus & Brie omelette ...
Post by: mejetski2000 on August 25, 2015, 10:28:01 AM
Post by: bizzaro on August 25, 2015, 11:06:33 AM
Post by: mejetski2000 on August 25, 2015, 11:24:26 AM
Post by: jay1622 on August 26, 2015, 04:51:16 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on August 26, 2015, 07:26:44 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 27, 2015, 09:28:04 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 27, 2015, 10:49:09 PM
Lowered the fork tubes in the triple clamps on the RT.
Post by: jensk on August 29, 2015, 08:32:52 AM
Splines look good - but then it has only been running 66.000 kms
Post by: johnny on August 29, 2015, 08:48:38 AM
those metal shavings look like ujoint metal...
j o
Post by: jensk on August 29, 2015, 10:41:39 AM
those metal shavings look like ujoint metal...I thought so initially but when i peeked some of them out it was some old stale lumps of grease - not moly based. Aparently the PO didn't use moly based grease for the FD.
Post by: TimTyler on August 29, 2015, 01:45:33 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on August 29, 2015, 05:34:41 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 30, 2015, 09:58:29 PM
Replaced the headlamp with a new brighter one. The one that was in there was pretty bright,(I think it was original!). I am headed on a long trip soon, and wanted to replace it. I kept the old one for a spare.
Made a Johnny Blanket to try and keep my thighs from getting cooked. I only took it on a short run after the install, but it definitely seems to help.
Gave it a quick wash and finally put the front radiator cowling back on. It has been off since I got the bike to work on various things.
Next is the rear brake repair. My calipers drag just enough to get my disk really freaken hot. I don't want to see that boot light up!
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 31, 2015, 01:38:08 PM
Post by: WayneDW on August 31, 2015, 08:29:22 PM
Made the ice box and took the box for a 3 day test ride. 3 peanut butter jars of frozen water lasted 2 days. Half bag of ice lasted another day.Cool (pun intended). so the box fits onto the rear rack? and the wok in the lid fits over the ice box?
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 31, 2015, 09:02:31 PM
Post by: WayneDW on August 31, 2015, 09:09:59 PM
Yes, snaps in & down just like a Givi top box ... and yes
Wow, mark me down as impressed.
Post by: bocutter Ed on September 01, 2015, 09:56:51 AM
I'll be posting a build thread on 1 or 2 woodworking forums. Would there be any point in cross-posting here?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 01, 2015, 10:51:07 AM
Post by: herseyb on September 01, 2015, 12:00:53 PM
Rudy got a new Z tube and turn signal bulb today, and a case hinge coming in the mail from maxbmw. First two up camping trip with the GF coming this weekend - I think I'm gonna work on my sheepskin seat cover attachment. Haven't figured out if it's gonna be straps, bungies or velcro yet, but I've got a big enough sheepskin to try a few things.
Post by: herseyb on September 02, 2015, 10:23:30 AM
Got the sheepskin on, bringin my mad max level up 3 notches.
I got a real thick pile (rare american breed, of course), and didn't put it on the sides. That's bringing a lot of pressure off the insides of my thighs from that stock seat.
Comfy, and raises my shorty seat model up a bit too.
Post by: drut on September 03, 2015, 02:00:44 PM
Post by: K75RT Keith on September 04, 2015, 11:31:02 AM
Post by: bizzaro on September 04, 2015, 09:00:05 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 05, 2015, 06:04:04 PM
Post by: jay1622 on September 05, 2015, 07:07:31 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 05, 2015, 07:55:27 PM
Synched throttle body's.............. again. I am idling a bit high and trying to take it down a bit. Got up right on,even steven, but it is still idling a bit high?? Any suggestions?
How fresh are your injector seals ? If your cylinders aren't maintaining consistent reading on manometer over a short span of time I'd be looking at seals and possibly off-bike injector cleaning.
Post by: jay1622 on September 05, 2015, 07:57:45 PM
Synched throttle body's.............. again. I am idling a bit high and trying to take it down a bit. Got up right on,even steven, but it is still idling a bit high?? Any suggestions?
How fresh are your injector seals ? If your cylinders aren't maintaining consistent reading on manometer over a short span of time I'd be looking at seals and possibly off-bike injector cleaning.
+1
My plenum to TB's were lousy with cracks and rips; couldn't have discovered them without pulling them off.
Post by: frodef on September 06, 2015, 05:45:01 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 07, 2015, 10:27:06 AM
I fitted a new clock unit in my instrument panel, this one with integrated thermometer and voltmeter. Good to know when it's below freezing, which isn't too many weeks away.. :mbird
What is this clock of which you speak? Sounds interesting. Is it a direct replacement?
Post by: TimTyler on September 07, 2015, 10:44:32 AM
I fitted a new clock unit in my instrument panel, this one with integrated thermometer and voltmeter. Good to know when it's below freezing, which isn't too many weeks away.. :mbird
:useless
Post by: frodef on September 08, 2015, 02:38:38 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6817788/IMG_20150908_145529.jpg)
I took out the original LCD clock because it didn't work anymore. I've been going for a while with a cheap ebay 12-hour clock, which I've now updated to a slightly less cheap ebay 24-hour clock/thermometer/voltmeter. I bought it a year or two ago, but I think it's the same as this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-30-Electric-Digital-Panel-Car-Clock-Thermometer-Voltmeter-LED-DC-33V-200V-/350793964999?var=&hash=item51acf31dc7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-30-Electric-Digital-Panel-Car-Clock-Thermometer-Voltmeter-LED-DC-33V-200V-/350793964999?var=&hash=item51acf31dc7)
In fact it's so long ago I bought it that the button cell battery that served as the clock backup was pretty much dead. I had to pry it out of the hot-snot or whatever goo it was cast into and solder in a replacement.
Anyhow, I routed the two buttons for it to the black toggle switch you see below. Also present is a USB power cable, and Robert's gear indicator (that LCD died on me too).
Post by: bizzaro on September 08, 2015, 05:55:36 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 08, 2015, 09:31:06 PM
Post by: RobP on September 09, 2015, 11:26:51 AM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 09, 2015, 08:49:46 PM
Post by: bizzaro on September 10, 2015, 08:11:09 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 10, 2015, 09:30:29 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 12, 2015, 05:19:10 PM
Post by: K75RT Keith on September 12, 2015, 05:43:37 PM
Is it Castrol Ligui Moly additive? Synthetic? Can't seem to find the Guard Dog gear additive?
Go online and search for guard dog moly
Post by: kris on September 13, 2015, 11:56:49 AM
Nice people to deal with. I bought their moly and their additive for the tranny (don't recall the name but they won't steer you wrong). Call 'em!
Post by: bizzaro on September 13, 2015, 01:37:33 PM
Post by: johnny on September 13, 2015, 02:58:04 PM
guard dog moly treatment for conventional gear oils... (http://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-401-moly-treatment-for-gear-oils/)
guard dog moly treatment for synthetic gear oils... (http://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-421-moly-treatment-for-synthetic-gear-oils/)
guard dog moly treatment for conventional engine oils... (http://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-451-moly-treatment-for-engine-oils/)
guard dog moly treatment for synthetic engine oils... (http://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-452-moly-treatment-for-synthetic-engine-oils/)
guard dog 525 moly for driveshafts... (http://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-525-moly-grease-synthetic/)
j o
Post by: jensk on September 13, 2015, 03:15:21 PM
Rode 300 km's home and was glad that all my problems with a sticky clutch was gone.
Then suddently this 60 year old Citroen HY came along
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 13, 2015, 03:43:50 PM
Post by: blakey on September 13, 2015, 08:13:21 PM
"Nice people to deal with."
Agreed...and they ship to Australia too!
Post by: herseyb on September 13, 2015, 09:19:43 PM
With the 4K miles I've put on the bike this summer I need to start prepping for the 20K service interval.
Post by: bizzaro on September 13, 2015, 10:05:20 PM
Post by: davedrave on September 14, 2015, 06:03:33 AM
Post by: Glacial on September 15, 2015, 09:50:19 PM
Post by: staffordworks on September 15, 2015, 10:00:14 PM
just rolled past 142k (mi) on mine the other day, plenty of miles left on yours to find some sunny twisty fun :)
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 16, 2015, 09:48:24 PM
Post by: Weatherbrick2112 on September 18, 2015, 01:18:03 AM
Mechanic installing a cooler 170 degree thermostat to keep it running cooler and replacing the oil/water pump seals in hopes that the oil leak will be resolved. He thinks that's all it will need. Should have it back in a week or two I'm told. Fingers crossed. I really need my brick back!
Post by: cameroneod on September 18, 2015, 03:20:10 PM
Post by: Scott_ on September 19, 2015, 01:26:45 PM
Today I installed it on my '97. Sounds about the same, but lighter weight and looks better.
Post by: frodef on September 19, 2015, 05:18:39 PM
Post by: Tuco on September 19, 2015, 07:37:23 PM
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 20, 2015, 05:57:32 PM
Post by: jay1622 on September 21, 2015, 11:26:10 AM
This thing only has 32k miles on the clock; I can't believe how dirty the pistons were. And the exhaust ports?!? Filthy!
Still need to clean the head gasket face on the block, pull the pistons and clean any residual crud from the rings and ring wells.
Please to see the cylinder walls look like they were honed yesterday; simply perfect!
Post by: Tuco on September 21, 2015, 01:48:59 PM
Pulled the head and cleaned the piston faces.The picture of the exhaust port is priceless, never have seen one that bad !
This thing only has 32k miles on the clock; I can't believe how dirty the pistons were. And the exhaust ports?!? Filthy!
Still need to clean the head gasket face on the block, pull the pistons and clean any residual crud from the rings and ring wells.
Please to see the cylinder walls look like they were honed yesterday; simply perfect!
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 22, 2015, 06:30:54 PM
Post by: bizzaro on September 22, 2015, 08:27:17 PM
Post by: Tuco on September 22, 2015, 08:58:00 PM
Al
Post by: bizzaro on September 22, 2015, 09:31:50 PM
Post by: herseyb on September 24, 2015, 11:07:25 AM
Took the fuel tank off of the first time myself, discovered it doesn't have the little clips that hold it in, just wedged into the aging rubber grommets. Yikes? Also missing one rubber mount for the L-Jetronic. (I've got the low seat.)
Installed a used hazard lights switch, and the little icon fell out! But the hazards work fine now, and taking off the tank isn't an intimidating mystery anymore.
Post by: mejetski2000 on September 26, 2015, 11:24:56 AM
Post by: subforry on September 27, 2015, 02:23:10 PM
Post by: jay1622 on September 27, 2015, 10:06:59 PM
Post by: herseyb on September 28, 2015, 10:04:28 AM
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on September 28, 2015, 10:52:01 AM
Pulled the head and cleaned the piston faces.
This thing only has 32k miles on the clock; I can't believe how dirty the pistons were. And the exhaust ports?!? Filthy!
Still need to clean the head gasket face on the block, pull the pistons and clean any residual crud from the rings and ring wells.
Please to see the cylinder walls look like they were honed yesterday; simply perfect!
Post by: NSvane on October 01, 2015, 06:30:10 AM
Now it just purrs as a very large, square kitten!
Post by: F14CRAZY on October 05, 2015, 11:57:41 AM
No cracking but the hose feels really soft and though it doesn't leak it can be pulled off really easily. Should get to replacing that
Post by: herseyb on October 06, 2015, 10:21:20 AM
Methinks the torque wrench at the hacker space may not be working properly.... :falldown:
Post by: F14CRAZY on October 06, 2015, 09:01:19 PM
At 52,204 I had BMW of Grand Rapids adjust the valves since I checked them myself and found that #2 and #3 intake valves were tight. I also asked them to recheck and adjust as necessary. I checked them today with 76,204 on the bike (exactly 24k coincidentally). I should probably check them at shorter intervals but the whole thing about K-bricks not needing adjustments very often seems to be true as they were still good :riding:
I follow Chris Harris' advice on loose being ok, so I only check them for tightness :dunno2:
24000
Post by: drut on October 10, 2015, 01:41:40 PM
Post by: aim410x on October 18, 2015, 08:37:22 AM
Post by: Tuco on October 18, 2015, 10:58:24 PM
Post by: aim410x on October 23, 2015, 03:05:24 PM
Post by: WayneDW on October 25, 2015, 08:47:42 PM
Post by: bizzaro on October 25, 2015, 10:11:20 PM
You can mix the two! I went Turkey hunting this morning. Got back and took a much needed ride. I have been off the bike too long, busy with other shit. I put a little Marvel Mystery Oil and a bit of Sea Foam in the oil to loosen up the gunk before my Winter oil change. Rode about 50 miles then returned home and changed the oil. I don't like to let dirty oil sit in the bike for the Winter. While I was at it, I removed my johnny blanket, and put the bunkers back in for cold weather riding. I also removed the hose I found loose this summer under the fuel tank, and capped it up on the engine end. Fuel EPA hose thingy I think. I found it disconnected under my fuel tank this Summer. Checked the coolant freeze protection. Got to beef that up a bit. Oh and when I was out turkey hunting, no birds,(well a couple o partridge), I got a glimpse of a buck...................season opens here November 14. I will be back there. It was a nice buck! :lets-eat:
Post by: rbm on October 26, 2015, 06:09:20 PM
Post by: island_boy on October 28, 2015, 07:08:34 PM
Well, I had my newly purchased off ebay '92 K100RS 16v delivered! Took possession, got insurance, got her tagged, and spent the afternoon riding all over town. Took my 12yr old 2-up on it, she loved it.
Wife wants to go for a 'date night' on her later. I may need a stick to beat the ladies off... :euro
Loving her so far. Cleaned up nicely. Discovered a slight leak in the master cylinder after riding, it dribbles down the right side of the fairing in long lines... so I'll be looking at that shortly. Time for the search button!
My first BMW, my first K-bike, my first 'real' bike. Been a dirt bike rider and owned an old '73 Honda CL360 for a number of years. But this is my first 'real' bike, and I'm lovin' it!
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/IMG_2772.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/clmautz/media/IMG_2772.jpg.html)
Cheers.
Island Boy
Post by: WayneDW on October 28, 2015, 08:54:23 PM
Post by: kryder on October 28, 2015, 09:19:48 PM
Loving her so far. Cleaned up nicely. Discovered a slight leak in the master cylinder after riding, it dribbles down the right side of the fairing in long lines... so I'll be looking at that shortly.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/IMG_2772.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/clmautz/media/IMG_2772.jpg.html)
Cheers.
Island Boy
Nice! Regarding the leaking front master cylinder; in my experience it is better to replace rather than attempt a rebuild as it will likely start leaking again. You'll save time and money in the long run.
Post by: Tuco on October 28, 2015, 09:52:07 PM
Al
Post by: island_boy on October 28, 2015, 10:53:39 PM
Another thing I did today was take one daughter twice on two rides, and the wife to the store for some groceries. In her excited spirit, my daughter (12) opened the hard bag and broke the chain off, so I'll be screwing that back in through the case. :-)
Now she's warm away in the garage. Doesn't like to start on the sidestand when cold, so I learned to bump-start her tonight. Who needs a kickstarter anyway... :-)
I'm going to start a thread on my ownership of the bike, and the maintenance/upgrades I do. Found this tonight - any ironbutters on here? Something I've always wanted to do, and it appears that the bike is set up for it... it came from Reno, btw.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/ironbutt.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/clmautz/media/ironbutt.jpg.html)
Cheerio!
Island Boy
Warmin' up in the Deep South
Post by: drut on October 29, 2015, 05:42:55 AM
Should have a switch on the sidestand to stop it starting hot or cold when stand is down.
Post by: aim410x on October 29, 2015, 07:34:13 AM
What did I do?
Well, I had my newly purchased off ebay '92 K100RS 16v delivered! Took possession, got insurance, got her tagged, and spent the afternoon riding all over town. Took my 12yr old 2-up on it, she loved it.
Wife wants to go for a 'date night' on her later. I may need a stick to beat the ladies off... :euro
Loving her so far. Cleaned up nicely. Discovered a slight leak in the master cylinder after riding, it dribbles down the right side of the fairing in long lines... so I'll be looking at that shortly. Time for the search button!
My first BMW, my first K-bike, my first 'real' bike. Been a dirt bike rider and owned an old '73 Honda CL360 for a number of years. But this is my first 'real' bike, and I'm lovin' it!
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/IMG_2772.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/clmautz/media/IMG_2772.jpg.html)
Cheers.
Island Boy
War Eagle Island Boy! I am in Wetumpka, just 40 miles down Hwy 14. Ive been on beemers since I was 5 years old, when pop got his 75/5 and have tools and a lift. Be Happy to get together and give the bike a run thru with you. This forum is really the best for K bikes, tons of knowledge! Welcome aboard!
Post by: olivertwisto on October 29, 2015, 09:58:36 AM
Post by: kryder on October 30, 2015, 10:02:51 PM
Pulled off the ancient original grips and replaced 'em with some dual density gel progrips. So much nicer than the old hockey pucks. Also bought a bellypan and bracket for $20. Good deal! Can't wait to get it repainted and on the bike.
If you install the belly pan install a mudguard on the front fender. Your belly pan will thank you. Also, did you see my above post regarding your leaking front master cylinder? Replace the whole thing. If you try to rebuild it, it will almost certainly leak again. I know this from personal experience. In the long run you'll save time and money.
Post by: jensk on November 01, 2015, 03:40:40 AM
So i'm a little "down" because this first season as a brick owner has been great with many miles of spirited riding. Next time I will ride Bernd will be start of april next year.
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 07, 2015, 04:11:48 PM
I rode out to Mike (mw074 here on Motobrick) in Milford, MI and purchased this nice Russell Daylong seat from him. Drop him a message if you're looking for parts since he's reasonable and probably has what you're looking for. Great guy to chat and do business with.
Post by: Tuco on November 07, 2015, 05:45:57 PM
Post by: K1300S on November 07, 2015, 07:33:29 PM
temp fixed cracked crankcase breather hose (new one on the slow train from maxbmw)
TB's synched
choke and idle adjusted
then added new lic plate, not very original, but...
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20151107_185256.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20151107_185256.jpg.html)
matches this one in seattle, owned by brother..
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/seattle/20150607_111211.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/seattle/20150607_111211.jpg.html)
Post by: Chaos on November 07, 2015, 09:06:31 PM
Post by: K1300S on November 07, 2015, 10:18:49 PM
Is that about a 1974 tii lurking in your garage?
good eye! it is a 1975 2002. sort of a tii..it has an 88 M3 engine in it. it is a full on track car i use when instructing driving schools. nothing under red is stock. suspension, drivetrain, brakes, interior, etc is all custom race stuff.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/purple%20kit/20150705_190415.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/purple%20kit/20150705_190415.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/M2%20Beauty%20Shots/DSC_0246.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/M2%20Beauty%20Shots/DSC_0246.jpg.html)
(apologize for the bimmer diversion in a beemer forum)
Post by: Chaos on November 07, 2015, 10:48:50 PM
Post by: slipring on November 08, 2015, 06:26:10 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 08, 2015, 09:35:23 PM
Yesterday, calibrated the speedo, replaced a bulb and did the 12 hour mod to the S brick's cluster. Winter is getting closer, I'm spending more time with a wrench than with the throttle these days.
Post by: Tuco on November 08, 2015, 09:39:59 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 08, 2015, 09:44:35 PM
Post by: Tuco on November 08, 2015, 09:52:09 PM
Post by: Chaos on November 08, 2015, 10:16:51 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 09, 2015, 06:21:41 AM
I got the Ural to ride through the winter. Sometimes I wish it was as bulletproof as the K, but tinkering with it is half the fun.
I was reading a review on some heated gloves, Gerbing I think. A dude said he's in Alaska and rides his Ural when it's -47f and the gloves were still warm...that's pretty F-ing cold
Post by: K75RT Keith on November 09, 2015, 09:47:38 AM
Post by: Nine80seven on November 09, 2015, 05:48:17 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on November 09, 2015, 05:51:49 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 09, 2015, 06:19:03 PM
Polished the plug cover for more speed, early K100RS. Can barely hang on to this torque monster.(http://)
That looks good but I respectfully disagree...everyone knows that red is the fastest color
Post by: Tuco on November 09, 2015, 07:06:48 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on November 09, 2015, 07:32:43 PM
Post by: K1300S on November 09, 2015, 07:34:26 PM
Post by: Tuco on November 09, 2015, 07:36:19 PM
Post by: Scud on November 09, 2015, 07:52:09 PM
Can barely hang on to this torque monster.(http://)
Is that because your grips are made of banana peels?
Post by: Nine80seven on November 09, 2015, 08:03:03 PM
Post by: Tuco on November 09, 2015, 08:07:19 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on November 09, 2015, 09:00:27 PM
Post by: Scott_ on November 09, 2015, 09:28:11 PM
Post by: johnny on November 10, 2015, 06:45:43 AM
took them out and rode them hard... manipulating all the switches and allowing the fans to come on and run...
toped them off with no ethyl and a half a bottle of marine stabil...
my weekends are tied up till mid december... hope to get the black one back out before 16...
note... it is important to switch health to move them back and forth on a regular basis and before winter nesting... same with the fan... gotta run that fan...
j o
Post by: Weatherbrick2112 on November 13, 2015, 03:44:33 PM
Post by: Glacial on November 13, 2015, 05:26:57 PM
I am off the Antarctic for the 19th time on Sunday to do a radar survey of an ice shelf. Snowmobile at -20C will be my primary transport for 10 hours each day. The most welcome technical innovation over the past 30 years in my world was the heated thumb throttle!
Best wishes from what may be the only continent never to have seen a motobrick.
Post by: Tuco on November 13, 2015, 07:02:06 PM
Post by: Tuco on November 23, 2015, 01:37:19 AM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 23, 2015, 06:54:00 PM
Post by: K1300S on November 23, 2015, 07:30:45 PM
Was getting the bike ready to begin my year-round riding experiment but found a nail in my rear Shinko 230 Tour Master...seems that plugging it isn't recommended so I'll have to replace it. It isn't new but I was hoping to get a few thousand more miles out of it
if just a nail and it is in the tread section, not the sidewall, then should have no issues using a plug.
Post by: kris on November 23, 2015, 08:54:15 PM
Post by: kris on November 23, 2015, 08:55:01 PM
Post by: kris on November 23, 2015, 08:55:27 PM
Post by: kris on November 23, 2015, 08:56:00 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 23, 2015, 09:16:51 PM
Post by: Scud on November 24, 2015, 09:50:00 PM
The stickers are black in daylight (not very noticeable on the bags). Here is is a picture with flash from my phone. The website does not list the stickers for the K bikes, but I asked and he sill had the pattern and made me a set. BTW, the owner of the business is a moderator over at BMWSportTouring.com.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/1992%20K75s/IMG_4212.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/1992%20K75s/IMG_4212.jpg.html)
Level of difficulty = 6 iPhone screen protectors.
Massive improvement in rear-end visibility for only about $30. Very nice for the evening commute home.
Post by: K1300S on November 24, 2015, 10:51:31 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 25, 2015, 07:40:02 AM
Post by: K1300S on November 25, 2015, 08:18:23 AM
Post by: kris on November 25, 2015, 08:38:36 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 25, 2015, 08:42:06 AM
Post by: johnny on November 25, 2015, 08:49:02 AM
run-n-lites... (http://www.run-n-lites.com/prod-run-n-lites.html)
stock tail light...
yeeeeehaaaa...
j o
Post by: Laitch on November 25, 2015, 08:52:15 AM
Post by: johnny on November 25, 2015, 08:55:22 AM
i have a strong and powerful stream... i seldom miss...
j o
Post by: Laitch on November 25, 2015, 09:01:49 AM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 25, 2015, 05:19:37 PM
I ordered another rear Shinko 230 Tour Master to replace my rear which has a nail in it. $85 from JT Cycle of Battle Creek, MI
Post by: Scott_ on November 25, 2015, 08:05:18 PM
Hopefully this will end my issue with breaking clutch cables....... 2 in 9 months is 2 too many.
Post by: Scud on November 25, 2015, 08:56:32 PM
They're bright, all right, Marshall. I've some on my cases, too. The bike really stands out in night traffic. That outfit that Scud mentions also sells neoprene face shield protectors. I keep my night shield in one of them and my day shield in another in my tank bag, swapping them when necessary. It's a heavy duty product.
I got a roll of black reflective tape - and used it judiciously on my Moto Guzzis (no special kit available). I like the pre-cut shapes from Moto Reflective, because they cover a lot of area and make unusual, attention-getting shapes. Plus it's nice to support independent guys who make cool stuff for bikes - such as the guy who makes the K-bike valve adjusting tools.
On visors: I recently "splurged" by paying about $100 for a Transitions visor for my helmet. I'm really enjoying it, especially now that my morning commute is into the sun and my evening commute is in the dark. One of those would be a nice addition to the Christmas wish-list. Imagine no more visor swapping - and your tinted visor turns clear when you go into a tunnel - and several other pleasantly surprising scenarios.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2015, 10:07:51 AM
Cut the ball off of a windshield mount and screwed it to a piece of 1/8" aluminum bent at 90 degrees. A little black paint makes it look OEM.
Post by: K1300S on November 27, 2015, 12:03:25 PM
Except I think I am missing that panel you mounted it to.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 30, 2015, 11:13:27 PM
Post by: Scud on December 01, 2015, 08:25:01 AM
I just drove 100 miles to Los Angeles airport last night (red-eye flight) and would have appreciated a bit more light up front.
FYI, I have the impression that the huge saddle-bag reflectors (posted earlier) have helped keep cars a few feet further back.
Free Parking is not just for Monopoly - here's the real thing at LAX (http://here's the real thing at LAX):
Post by: F14CRAZY on December 01, 2015, 08:36:47 AM
I'm gonna check the alignment of the rear wheel. It seems like my rear tires aren't lasting like they should
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 01, 2015, 11:39:49 AM
Which brand/model of lights did you go with? Can you give a ride-report on those?
Got them on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-10W-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-Light-Car-Motorcycle-Boat-ATV-/221950330172?hash=item33ad45453c:g:m6EAAOSwKIpWCPdd&vxp=mtr
I have them on all 3 of my bricks. Excellent conspicuity lights, they are like welding arcs, and are impossible to not notice, even in daylight. At night, they throw prodigious amounts of light. The only problem I have with them at night is the side scatter from the beam. It has a tendency to light up road signs so much it is difficult to see what is beyond them. The scatter also seems to really light up the area of the low beam pattern which is good, especially when looking for deer along the side of the road.
Current draw is less than two amps for both of them, and they throw at least as much light as a 65w high beam. They are compact and easy to mount under the chin of the fairing.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 01, 2015, 11:45:41 AM
Which brand/model of lights did you go with? Can you give a ride-report on those?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-10W-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-Light-Car-Motorcycle-Boat-ATV-/221950330172?hash=item33ad45453c:g:m6EAAOSwKIpWCPdd&vxp=mtr
I have them on all three of my bricks. Excellent conspicuity lights, they are impossible to not notice them even in daylight. They are like the arc from a welder.
Less than 2 watts for two of them, and they put out as much as my 65W high beam. Only downside I have seen with them is that the side scatter lights up road signs so much that it can be difficultt what is beyond them.
They are easy to mount under the chin of the fairing.
Post by: Kontoboy on December 04, 2015, 12:41:12 AM
A couple months ago on a late night drive home from work, a downshift on the off-ramp was accompanied by awful whirring grind. A half-mile push home and pulling the tranny revealed stripped splines on the clutch disk. I was so annoyed--I just had the tranny out 5k miles ago (bike at 22.5K miles) and the splines looked fine. I reassembled and relubed with Honda Moly 60--the splines were dry on disassembly.
A new clutch plate went in and on reassembly I used a cocktail of Moly and Wurth 3000 ($25 for a lifetime supply). Checking the drive shaft splines they did not look good (they received the same Moly lube 5K earlier). Since it is my daily driver I reluctantly put it together with my new Moly/Wurth cocktail while I developed a plan.
A new BMW drive shaft $450. Contacted Brunos and he wasn't taking any work "for a few months." Another site no longer taking the work...
...I was running out of options.
I found Motobins.co.uk (http://Motobins.co.uk)and ordered a replacement spline. About $95 delivered.
(https://www.motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg)
Then searched for a shop to weld/assemble it on my driveshaft. Not one local driveshaft or machine shops would touch it. I heard lots of excuses about liability and not the right equipment.
Finally I found a driveline shop in Winchester, VA about 75 miles away that agreed to take a look. I mailed it priority mail Thursday morning. Friday afternoon I get a call from John and its done. I settle the bill ($170) and two days later it arrives and looks good.
I just got it in the back in the bike last weekend. Four days of heavy rain ended last night and I took it to work today and it was smooth up to 70 MPH--as fast as I could go in rush hour traffic!
I'm happy. I'd still like to send a shaft/final drive off to Bruno for a full workup, but what I have now should be good for 30k.
Kontoboy
Post by: Kontoboy on December 04, 2015, 12:44:07 AM
It's not going anywhere.
Post by: K1300S on December 04, 2015, 06:10:28 AM
Thanks.
Post by: Kontoboy on December 04, 2015, 09:31:00 AM
After speaking with John on the phone I mailed it out (and includeded return postage). He was able to weld and balance on the equipment he had.
I was very pleased with the service and quick turnaround.
The Motobin splines are suppose to be (and appear) a harder steel than the OEM shaft. My final drive splines still looked good. I will need to watch the universal joint--it already has a bit of a flat spot I can feel, but so far I don't know of an option for replacing them.
Kontoboy
Post by: Elipten on December 04, 2015, 10:24:56 AM
Post by: beemrdon on December 04, 2015, 06:16:13 PM
OK what did I do? Not today but recently: Installed a Michelin Pilot Road 4 (rear) 150-70-17,
bought and installed a new Odyssey PC680 battery;
bought a left-hand switch off of ebay from an R1150 RT for $89. and installed it (fits and functions perfectly) pretty easy install.
bought and installed the plastic "hinges" for my side cases. Old ones broke apart - 4 of them (2 for each bag) $4.00 each and in stock at Max BMW.
Changed coolant, yes, I used BMW blue @ 50/50 using distilled H2O. ...It had something green in there before.
I will take about a 1/2 qt of coolant out this spring and add back 1/2 qt of straight H2O for better cooling. Need the extra anti freeze content now because I leave my bike in an unheated area and I do not want a cracked block if it gets really cold this winter.
Finally, added 1/3 qt. of oil (Mobil 1 15-50), yesterday.
I'm really loving my K! :2thumbup:
Post by: Martin on December 04, 2015, 10:53:41 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: kris on December 06, 2015, 08:06:01 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 06, 2015, 09:03:26 PM
Rode home the last 30 miles in 35F darkness. She loved it, and I must say that cold weather riding makes me really appreciate the fairing and heated grips on these bikes. The forecast says I have a few more days of riding left this week, and I still haven't broken out the heated jacket liner.
Post by: Elipten on December 06, 2015, 10:10:31 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 06, 2015, 10:43:46 PM
Post by: beemrdon on December 06, 2015, 11:12:55 PM
All in all, a good time was had.
So, what did I do to my bike today?
I rode it
I put gas in the tank a couple of times.
Gonna put the seafoam in the tank tomorrow.
Post by: Kontoboy on December 07, 2015, 06:34:22 AM
It's 30 degrees out now and I'm heading out to work on the bike--brrrrr!
Kontoboy
Post by: saha6818 on December 11, 2015, 02:51:22 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 11, 2015, 03:38:44 PM
Post by: saha6818 on December 11, 2015, 03:49:19 PM
Post by: Martin on December 11, 2015, 05:19:22 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: K1300S on December 11, 2015, 05:52:52 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 11, 2015, 06:11:06 PM
Task 1 completed.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 11, 2015, 06:40:15 PM
Post by: Scud on December 11, 2015, 08:47:56 PM
Bike's front end is in the air now - front tire is off... gotta find a valve stem in that box... then wheel bearings and the Shinko tire.
I get to play with my wheel balancer.... :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on December 11, 2015, 09:30:34 PM
Post by: K1300S on December 12, 2015, 08:44:21 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 12, 2015, 12:03:18 PM
Post by: K1300S on December 12, 2015, 05:04:54 PM
some aluminum i had laying around, a hacked up garmin car dash top mount, cig lighter socket, paint and some bolts.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20151212_163844.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20151212_163844.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20151212_163825.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20151212_163825.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20151212_163817.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20151212_163817.jpg.html)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 12, 2015, 05:13:24 PM
Stripped the belly pan and some of the fairing to get at the cylinder head. Got the injectors, exhaust and valve cover off and pulled a bunch of the screws holding the timing chain cover. Looks like more plastic needs to come off.
Back at it tomorrow.
Post by: bizzaro on December 13, 2015, 08:20:38 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 13, 2015, 08:33:07 PM
Post by: bizzaro on December 13, 2015, 08:37:13 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 13, 2015, 08:44:19 PM
Post by: Kontoboy on December 13, 2015, 09:22:39 PM
Have you tried blowing out the hoses with a shop vac? Don't forget to drain the overflow tank.
Kontoboy
Post by: saha6818 on December 18, 2015, 03:00:41 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 18, 2015, 04:05:38 PM
Post by: K1300S on December 21, 2015, 09:42:19 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20151219_150823.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20151219_150823.jpg.html)
one of these days i am going to order from MAX and not end up with a "special order" delay. geez, don't they carry anything in stock for bricks? that makes 5 orders in a row. i can get any part for my 40yo bmw car in a few days, but it takes over a week for maintenance parts i need for my 20yo moto.
yes, i got some cheeez to go with my whine....:-)
Post by: Martin on December 22, 2015, 12:52:47 AM
Perplexed Martin.
Post by: Laitch on December 22, 2015, 01:27:43 AM
Post by: Martin on December 22, 2015, 01:42:34 AM
Regards Martin
Post by: Laitch on December 22, 2015, 01:57:03 AM
Post by: Martin on December 22, 2015, 02:04:46 AM
Fill it full of petrol.
Why do Ladas have heated rear windows.
So your don't get cold when your pushing them.
Regards Martin
Post by: Laitch on December 22, 2015, 02:12:15 AM
Post by: K1300S on December 22, 2015, 06:13:31 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 23, 2015, 10:05:37 AM
Two of the seals on exhaust valves had come off of the guides and were just laying there loose after I removed the springs. Do ya think that may have contributed to a lot of oil burning?
Post by: Scud on December 23, 2015, 10:19:38 AM
Last night I replaced the valve stem seals in my RS head because of excessive oil usage(~1qt/500miles).
Two of the seals on exhaust valves had come off of the guides and were just laying there loose after I removed the springs. Do ya think that may have contributed to a lot of oil burning?
You were burning oil like a two-stroke Bultaco. This might be a good time to do a Seafoam (or other brand) treatment - the kind where you draw the Seafoam directly into the throttle body balance ports - so it can clean out some of that burned oil in the combustion chambers.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 23, 2015, 02:26:16 PM
Everything is cleaned up and ready to go now pending removal of the broken head bolt.
Post by: TimTyler on December 28, 2015, 06:47:55 PM
Post by: kris on December 30, 2015, 04:47:17 PM
Post by: TimTyler on December 30, 2015, 08:31:50 PM
Geez, Tim...that's like a spring day in southern Ontario! Like the horse/ jack contraption. Looks pretty solid.
Ha! Barely above the numb-fingers temp range for me.
I use my old film grip gear for supporting the bike: apple boxes (http://www.msegrip.com/apple-boxes.html), dolly cribbing and wedges (http://www.msegrip.com/product/dollies-track/matthews-track-camera-wedges.html) and sand bags (http://www.msegrip.com/matthews-sandbags.html) to keep the front tire from rolling.
Post by: K1300S on December 30, 2015, 09:32:38 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/seattle/WP_20140802_19_06_37_Pro.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/seattle/WP_20140802_19_06_37_Pro.jpg.html)
and spent some quality time on different motomachines in Cle Elum, Wa. brrrrrr.
[
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/seattle/20151229_150317.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/seattle/20151229_150317.jpg.html)
Post by: Martin on December 31, 2015, 02:02:18 AM
Regards Martin
Post by: bocutter Ed on December 31, 2015, 08:11:47 AM
white grass
... is fluffy rain.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 31, 2015, 10:17:09 AM
white grass
... is fluffy rain.
Spoken like a true Canadian...
Post by: F14CRAZY on December 31, 2015, 01:16:33 PM
Is 42F too cold for a clutch spline lube? I do not think so! :yes
I wish a hole could be added to the bellhousing and a grease zerk put on the clutch disc splines...
Post by: drut on December 31, 2015, 06:42:15 PM
I wish a hole could be added to the bellhousing and a grease zerk put on the clutch disc splines...
[/quote]
+1 with feeling.
Post by: K1300S on December 31, 2015, 06:57:43 PM
I wish a hole could be added to the bellhousing and a grease zerk put on the clutch disc splines...
+1 with feeling.
[/quote]
or just a design that did not need repeated greasing. car clutches appear to have the same design, yet i don't have to pull the tranny's to grease them regularly. grease at install, good until the clutch wears out. what is different about the k clutches?
Post by: TimTyler on December 31, 2015, 07:27:23 PM
... or just a design that did not need repeated greasing.
It ain't so bad. Six hours of work every 50k miles is a small price to pay.
Post by: F14CRAZY on December 31, 2015, 08:30:07 PM
... or just a design that did not need repeated greasing.
It ain't so bad. Six hours of work every 50k miles is a small price to pay.
Have you had luck with the splines holding up with 50k lube intervals? I'm worried with 25k on mine
Post by: TimTyler on December 31, 2015, 10:03:02 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on December 31, 2015, 10:15:07 PM
It's been 40k miles since my last clutch spline lube. No shifting problems, but I figured it was time to grease.
I take it that clutch hub and input shaft splines had a level of wear that's acceptable...?
I haven't had any shifting issues either though
Post by: Laitch on December 31, 2015, 10:51:42 PM
what is different about the k clutches?My guess is that the shaft has less mass and is probably subject to more lash and shock that acts on the lube. I think it's a miracle they run as well as they do, or that I run as well as I do, come to think of it.
Post by: F14CRAZY on December 31, 2015, 11:14:01 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 01, 2016, 02:53:19 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160101_122530.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160101_122530.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160101_122821_1.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160101_122821_1.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160101_122650.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160101_122650.jpg.html)
and put together xmas present the K got from a friend.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160101_141224.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160101_141224.jpg.html)
Post by: TimTyler on January 03, 2016, 05:44:19 PM
Previously I've used Hella 100/80W H4 bulbs and the better Sylvania 50/65W bulbs from the autoparts stores, and found they didn't last long, especially given that I take long tours. They're only rated for 150 to 300 hours depending on the bulb. That's like one summer month for me.
This light uses less than 1/3 the amperage of standard quartz bulbs which leaves more electricity for my heated gear.
Post by: K1300S on January 03, 2016, 06:08:35 PM
amazing the difference from the valve adjust. two of the exhaust valves were two sizes too tight, and the 3rd was three sizes too tight. it started immediately at full choke and went to 2k rpm. before it would start, but hover at 1500 until it warmed up for a few minutes. seemed smoother accross the rev range. yeah.
BB overgrips are great. nice and FAT and very grippy.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160103_165631.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160103_165631.jpg.html)
ride took me into old town alexandia. passed a K100rs heading the other way on the GW parkway. anyone here?
stopped at fellow car guy's garage. he had just picked up an old BSA bike to add to his vehicle collection.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160103_155058.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160103_155058.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160103_154528.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160103_154528.jpg.html)
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 03, 2016, 07:34:16 PM
Replaced my aftermarket 7" headlight with the Truck-Lite 27270C LED H/L (http://amzn.to/1VzHrOO). Painless swap, even in the snow.
Previously I've used Hella 100/80W H4 bulbs and the better Sylvania 50/65W bulbs from the autoparts stores, and found they didn't last long, especially given that I take long tours. They're only rated for 150 to 300 hours depending on the bulb. That's like one summer month for me.
This light uses less than 1/3 the amperage of standard quartz bulbs which leaves more electricity for my heated gear.
Tiorler...it looks like that headlight is half full of water, err headlight fluid
Post by: Martin on January 03, 2016, 08:24:00 PM
Post by: rbm on January 03, 2016, 08:43:36 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 04, 2016, 01:22:33 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 04, 2016, 05:15:22 AM
Post by: TimTyler on January 04, 2016, 09:28:34 AM
Haven't had a chance to ride yet but this demo video shows the pattern.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syCRMmV0-Bg
If the hot spot bothers me I may try to control it with tape on the lens.
I have the standard 32a alternator.
Post by: Laitch on January 05, 2016, 10:20:42 AM
Post by: K1300S on January 09, 2016, 07:27:10 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_165401.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_165401.jpg.html)
a bit dirty in there
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_153449.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_153449.jpg.html)
evidence of cracked crankcase breather hose mess.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_155144.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_155144.jpg.html)
these are going to RC Engineering for cleaning
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_163925.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_163925.jpg.html)
some quality time spend in the laundry room sink.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160109_174935.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160109_174935.jpg.html)
original project goal is to replace all fuel and cooling hoses, and replace the brake soft lines.
Post by: Scud on January 09, 2016, 07:39:12 PM
I'm eager to get into mine like that too - but have a queue of stuff ahead. Working wife's (oil and brakes) and kids' cars (oil only) today. Coincidentally, all came due at the same time.
Post by: K1300S on January 10, 2016, 07:08:40 PM
TB going back together. replaced all the hoses. did initial setting of the TPS
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160110_132306.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160110_132306.jpg.html)
added the little switch for the choke light. not much room for it..
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160110_135359.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160110_135359.jpg.html)
cut all the wire ties, wiped down all the wires, took apart and cleaned all the connections.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160110_154642.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160110_154642.jpg.html)
then drained coolant and removed all the coolant hoses. or tried to. looks like i will have to cut the one that goes through the crankcase cover to get it out. will new one slide in? waiting on the new ones to arrive.
Post by: Elipten on January 10, 2016, 08:14:54 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 10, 2016, 08:22:22 PM
Post by: rbm on January 10, 2016, 08:45:59 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 10, 2016, 09:14:04 PM
Post by: jensk on January 12, 2016, 02:57:43 PM
Home again i split the instrument house. Indside it looked like brand new.
(http://i.imgur.com/EU499j1.jpg)
When I looked at the dialplate i could se a small growe/scratch around the center where it has pressed against the dial needle.
(http://i.imgur.com/QZZCt4d.jpg)
I couldn'r detect that the black print folio of the dialplate was not firmly attached the the underlying acrylic plate. I guess that the sticking needles is due to the whole plate expanding and bending up against the nedddle when it gets hot from the sun shining on it.
Since i had no job gluing i decided to remount the needles but now higher - approx. 3 mm's from the faceplate surface. I hope this gives clearance enough so that the speedo and tacho works even when the sun is shining on the gauges.
(http://i.imgur.com/gNkG7He.jpg)
Post by: NSvane on January 15, 2016, 06:55:12 AM
Then I covered stuff in moisture repellant and siliconespray.
I look forward to hearing that 3 pot sound again :) 600km last year (bought it in august), was not at all enough.
My winter-vehicle (and summer!) a '83 Renault R4, has also been given some TLC today, but it seems to have a pretty nonchalant attitude towards winter, snow, moisture and below 0 C temps.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 16, 2016, 04:28:18 PM
She fired right up and didn't fog me out with oily, stinky exhaust. Looks like the valve stem seals did the trick.
Installed a new air filter and balanced the throttle bodies. She purrs like a feral cat now. All I need to do now is figure out why it is running so rich. Plugs are showing a lot of dry carbon fluffiness on them, and goosing the throttle gets a burst of black smoke.
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2016, 04:50:00 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 16, 2016, 05:03:02 PM
When I put things back together today I made a point of getting a lot of anti seize all over the place on that bolt in particular, just in case I ever need to go back in there again.
Post by: Nine80seven on January 16, 2016, 05:40:15 PM
Also installed new 8 gauge ground wires from the tranny and the frame to the battery.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 16, 2016, 05:51:07 PM
Went to dealer to buy a few parts, OMG the prices. A few shims, a cable, little stuff, hunnerd and fifty bucks. Strange each time I go into a dealer. Went to service about rear wheel bearing service on an old /6 carry in. Them, "For what?" Me, "BMW." Them, "Car?" Me, "No, motorcycle." Think I'll do it myself. Thought I'd throw'em a little business. Very little.
Also installed new 8 gauge ground wires from the tranny and the frame to the battery.
I hear you on those part prices. I read postings from 6-7 years ago on the interweb where people talk about part prices. Holy crap, have those prices ever gone up. I guess BMWNA hasn't got the word on the strong dollar and the 1-2% inflation the past couple years. Heck, in the two years I've been working on bricks I swear part prices have increased 8-10%. Thank God for eBay.
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 16, 2016, 06:02:33 PM
Went to dealer to buy a few parts, OMG the prices. A few shims, a cable, little stuff, hunnerd and fifty bucks. Strange each time I go into a dealer. Went to service about rear wheel bearing service on an old /6 carry in. Them, "For what?" Me, "BMW." Them, "Car?" Me, "No, motorcycle." Think I'll do it myself. Thought I'd throw'em a little business. Very little.
Also installed new 8 gauge ground wires from the tranny and the frame to the battery.
Parts aren't any cheaper but my dealer hasn't had any issues servicing my K75. Had them to do a valve adjustment and steering head bearings
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2016, 06:07:50 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Elipten on January 16, 2016, 06:08:07 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 16, 2016, 09:12:17 PM
then replaced all the coolant hoses (they too were original). the combo of dish soap and lengthwise folding made getting the crank cover hose in easy!
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160116_175041.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160116_175041.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160116_175053.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160116_175053.jpg.html)
then reassembled the throttle bodies and installed.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160116_184856.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160116_184856.jpg.html)
front brake line replacement and some wiring tomorrow. injectors due back from RCEngineering this week.
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2016, 09:32:27 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Bill on January 17, 2016, 09:29:07 PM
Post by: Bill on January 17, 2016, 09:29:47 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 18, 2016, 08:37:55 AM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_095335.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_095335.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_105338.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_105338.jpg.html)
finished cleaning and straightening up the wiring. choke light works!
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_165338.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_165338.jpg.html)
airbox and AFM reinstalled
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_165351.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_165351.jpg.html)
"while i was in there" ran unswitched power and ground from battery to fairing to drive light relays.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_165419.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_165419.jpg.html)
the pile of 1993 dated hoses...
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160117_171520.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160117_171520.jpg.html)
now that front of bike is done, time to take apart the drive line and pull tranny for spline lube.
Post by: Scud on January 18, 2016, 09:02:09 AM
I'm eager to get into mine at this level too - but I keep leaving it at airports (where it is again this week.) I'm going to do front-end, then back-end just as you have done - I got the spiegler lines too (but I'm doing ABS-delete). You're making me think about replacing all the coolant hoses as a preventative measure. Where did you source them?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 18, 2016, 09:43:12 AM
May I suggest a few things you can do even in the clutch of winter in the great white north. Drain the gas in the tank, replace with 12 liters of fresh gas(corn free if you can get it) and a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner.
Get a small trickle/float charger that has a plug that will fit the accessory outlet near the coils. I have one of these(wait until they become available again):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Hella-BMW-Powerlet-Motorcycle-Automatic-Smart-Battery-12-V-Trickle-Charger-/121206035696?hash=item1c387154f0&item=121206035696&vxp=mtr
Every 2-3 weeks plug in the charger and let it run over night until the LED turns green. That will keep your battery nice and fresh. Then run the engine for about 5 minutes or until you can feel the radiator start to get warm. Enjoy the sound of your brick engine. This will circulate the oil in the engine and more importantly the Techron loaded gas through the system which will spend the winter dissolving any crap in the injectors.
Post by: Bill on January 18, 2016, 10:14:58 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 18, 2016, 10:17:27 AM
Post by: Bill on January 18, 2016, 10:24:18 AM
Post by: K1300S on January 18, 2016, 10:45:20 AM
Marshall - this is a proper going-through. What do you think about recapping all this work in a project-bike thread? Maybe you could copy all your posts in the "what did you did" thread. It would be cool to be able to read about what you're doing (and continuing to do) all in one place - the order you're doing things is really helpful.
I'm eager to get into mine at this level too - but I keep leaving it at airports (where it is again this week.) I'm going to do front-end, then back-end just as you have done - I got the spiegler lines too (but I'm doing ABS-delete). You're making me think about replacing all the coolant hoses as a preventative measure. Where did you source them?
Will do!
I have a 50 page build thread on another forum for the building of my 1975 bmw 2002 track car. I tend to document everything I do.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 18, 2016, 11:08:17 AM
Marshall - this is a proper going-through. What do you think about recapping all this work in a project-bike thread? Maybe you could copy all your posts in the "what did you did" thread. It would be cool to be able to read about what you're doing (and continuing to do) all in one place - the order you're doing things is really helpful.
I'm eager to get into mine at this level too - but I keep leaving it at airports (where it is again this week.) I'm going to do front-end, then back-end just as you have done - I got the spiegler lines too (but I'm doing ABS-delete). You're making me think about replacing all the coolant hoses as a preventative measure. Where did you source them?
Will do!
I have a 50 page build thread on another forum for the building of my 1975 bmw 2002 track car. I tend to document everything I do.
Wish I had that kind of discipline. I want to document what I'm doing, for future reference, but I gwet involved in what I'm doing and suddenly realize I am beyond the point where I can take some good photos of how I got there.
And I used to write technical manuals with photos in the past...
Post by: K1300S on January 18, 2016, 02:17:26 PM
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/103584-mlytles-m2-madness/
i take pics of everything primarily because, well, i forget how i take stuff apart... helps to get it all back together!
Post by: Liverpool Brick on January 20, 2016, 03:55:09 PM
Andy :clap: :bmwsmile
Post by: TimTyler on January 20, 2016, 06:19:31 PM
Brought the hose to Olympia Custom Hose (https://www.facebook.com/Olympia-Custom-Hose-149502295099698/) and he made me a new one on the spot for about $60. Found out when I got home the top connector is actually 2mm too thin, but a couple of extra copper washers seems to have solved that problem. Front brakes are solid now.
Post by: K1300S on January 20, 2016, 06:35:06 PM
Post by: TimTyler on January 20, 2016, 06:37:25 PM
Post by: dark_gap on January 21, 2016, 09:23:51 AM
- New Exide battery
- 20W50 Castrol mineral engine oil
- Castrol SAE 90 API GL5 transmission and final end oil
- A bottle of DOT 4 for change the old brake liquid.
- A pair of fork seals and dust seals (41,7x55x7,5/10) and SAE 15 fork oil.
And this afternoon: mechanic time!!
Only one question: Its to much for a 88.000kms bike the SAE 15 for the front forks? I use it in my other bikes to compensate the spring deterioration...
Post by: Laitch on January 21, 2016, 10:04:19 AM
Only one question: Its to much for a 88.000kms bike the SAE 15 for the front forks? I use it in my other bikes to compensate the spring deterioration...This is a question that you should answer yourself, d_g. You've ridden the bike. Do you know what grade of oil is in it? It will only take you a few miles over rough pavement or gravel roads to discover whether SAE 15 will work for you. Changing the fork oil is a relatively simple operation.
Post by: rbm on January 21, 2016, 12:00:15 PM
Post by: Glacial on January 23, 2016, 05:28:08 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 23, 2016, 07:13:39 PM
Post by: Glacial on January 24, 2016, 04:43:55 AM
welcome back! friend of mine just left for mcmurdo station to visit the ice breaker working down there.
I'm sure they will have an amazing time. McMurdo is an interesting place with more than 1000 people there, stark contrast to the 45 that were at Halley station during my visit.
Post by: dark_gap on January 24, 2016, 08:41:53 AM
Only one question: Its to much for a 88.000kms bike the SAE 15 for the front forks? I use it in my other bikes to compensate the spring deterioration...This is a question that you should answer yourself, d_g. You've ridden the bike. Do you know what grade of oil is in it? It will only take you a few miles over rough pavement or gravel roads to discover whether SAE 15 will work for you. Changing the fork oil is a relatively simple operation.
So finally I have choose SAE 20, two friends with a R100 and R100RS have done the same operation and recommend to me this viscosity, so I'll try first this one and If I'm not happy I will go to a lower degree to SAE 15. I'm 1,80 and 89kg so hope will work for me.
Thanks for the answer!
Post by: dark_gap on January 24, 2016, 08:46:01 AM
You're in Spain, which is a generally a hot country, so maybe SAE 15 is correct for those conditions, your weight, riding style and setup. Double check the sag adjustment on the bike and make sure rebound is equalized between the back and front. Then ride, as Laitch suggests, to determine if a lighter oil like 10W is required.
Hi rbm, thats one of the trickiest thing for my in new bikes, setting all the bike as I want to. There's any DIY in the forum to do it? I have the workshop and owners manual...if I can find there will be great cause is a completely new bike and a new transmission that I've never tried before...so I'm really lost here :bmwsmile
Thanks!!
Post by: dark_gap on January 24, 2016, 08:49:47 AM
You're in Spain, which is a generally a hot country, so maybe SAE 15 is correct for those conditions, your weight, riding style and setup. Double check the sag adjustment on the bike and make sure rebound is equalized between the back and front. Then ride, as Laitch suggests, to determine if a lighter oil like 10W is required.
Hi rbm, thats one of the trickiest thing for my in new bikes, setting all the bike as I want to. There's any DIY in the forum to do it? I have the workshop and owners manual...if I can find there will be great cause is a completely new bike and a new transmission that I've never tried before...so I'm really lost here :bmwsmile
Thanks!!
Post by: Laitch on January 24, 2016, 09:39:26 AM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,370.0.html
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,339.0.html
Otherwise, the Workshop section is where most of us do our research on procedures unfamiliar to us. The section is divided into component groups where you'll find plenty of advice, opinion and useful information.
Post by: rbm on January 24, 2016, 10:04:29 AM
The total fork travel for your K1 is 135mm, and therefore you should be targeting for a 45mm sag number. There are a number of articles and videos on the Internet that explain setting dynamic sag. Videos on Youtube by Dave Moss are the best out there. His explanations are centred around track bike suspension needs but the theory he talks about is universal and applies to the K1 as well. To adjust sag on the rear is to screw in/out the preload adjuster rings. To adjust preload on the front forks requires the forks to be disassembled and the preload spacer tube shortened or lengthened. That is major surgery.
Here are links to 3 Dave Moss videos to get you started.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAWLaLf1Awc&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=conLHYxE_kQ&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNn2Y0QlhgM&feature=youtu.be
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 24, 2016, 11:17:21 AM
Post by: Martin on January 24, 2016, 11:40:58 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 24, 2016, 12:52:47 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 24, 2016, 01:15:25 PM
Post by: dark_gap on January 24, 2016, 03:05:43 PM
Many of us are eager to know how your bike handles with that SAE 20, d_g, so we hope you will post here with your opinion after your ride.
I promise I will, in other bikes I have been using SAE 15, but in newer ones...I think or maybe I wish that SAE 20 will compensate the trace of time over the springs...anyway if not I will spend only 2 hours more and 12€ of fork oil in the change...I believe that in the wrong choices is where the learning is :euro
The friends who have recommended that fork oil use to ride old ducati and bikes like that, also do some performance over them...I believe them...but I need to try.
(Sorry about my english tonigh, I was doing some Enduro riding and celebrating the ride with some beers.. bmp bmp )
Post by: Laitch on January 24, 2016, 03:31:52 PM
I believe that in the wrong choices is where the learning is :euroIn many cases that can be true, d_g, but in many other cases you must wait until you get out of the jail, divorce court or hospital before you can try out your new learning from your mistakes. Sometimes it's cheaper to let others make them for you. That way, you will have more money to buy motorcycle parts, especially springs. :hehehe
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 25, 2016, 09:25:20 AM
(Sorry about my english tonigh, I was doing some Enduro riding and celebrating the ride with some beers.. bmp bmp )
Nothing wrong with your English. It is wa-a-a-a-y better than my terrible Spanish.
And, there is no need to apologize, enduro riding is supposed to make you thirsty for beer.
Post by: Martin on January 25, 2016, 02:23:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: TimTyler on January 26, 2016, 04:11:16 PM
Cleaned with pipe cleaner, dried with heat gun and coated the inside with Frame Saver (http://amzn.to/20rdd33). The Frame Saver stuff takes a while to dry but coats the surface with a sticky rust inhibitor.
Post by: K1300S on January 26, 2016, 04:19:24 PM
Post by: Martin on January 26, 2016, 04:38:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Elipten on January 26, 2016, 04:51:26 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 26, 2016, 06:33:55 PM
Post by: Inge K. on January 26, 2016, 06:49:59 PM
Time to swap in an LT center stand. They're solid instead of being tubular?????
I'll guess you mean a 4V center stand, which have straight legs.
But those is also made of tubes, exept the foot lever....and they also breaks, but it's not so usual as those
on the 2V's.
Post by: Nine80seven on January 26, 2016, 06:53:55 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 26, 2016, 07:21:08 PM
Time to swap in an LT center stand. They're solid instead of being tubular?????
I'll guess you mean a 4V center stand, which have straight legs.
But those is also made of tubes, exept the foot lever....and they also breaks, but it's not so usual as those
on the 2V's.
ooops...well the stand my bike has...I can't remember how Drake put it but it is upgraded. It does have straight legs though so it must be a 4V stand
Post by: TimTyler on February 01, 2016, 06:16:55 PM
Moved the Kuryakyn LED battery gauge (http://amzn.to/1SoIItR) from the coil cover to the handlebars. Epoxied it to the master cylinder cover part of the right hand guard.
Post by: rbm on February 01, 2016, 07:44:44 PM
Post by: TimTyler on February 01, 2016, 07:48:27 PM
Also, when Mr. Injector overhauls the OEM injectors he strips off the black finish and repaints them with a not-very-durable paint.
Post by: Martin on February 01, 2016, 09:38:51 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: TimTyler on February 01, 2016, 09:51:49 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 03, 2016, 03:58:48 PM
YeeeeeHaaaaa!!!
Post by: koapono on February 04, 2016, 10:07:45 AM
back story: mine since 1989, had 350 miles on her when i acquired it now has 202,000! previous owner was tall and had back issues so he couldn't sit comfortably in position required to ride the RS. He stored it in garage under cover and finally caved in to my unrelenting pressure to sell. installed new battery, added some fresh gas and it started right up (literally) i rode it home and have been its caretaker ever since. I do all my own maintenance and repairs, most of the components are still original it truly is a teutonic marvel.
this year is a major maintenance cycle as several of the intake manifolds were cracked as were a couple of the rubber bushings on intake plenum, side note: they are all original!
With this maintenance cycle will come spline lube, clean-up and adjust of clutch mechanism, intake/exhaust valve adjustment, replace original throttle cable with new unit, install new clutch cable and leave old one in place as a spare.
I am also going to install digital water temp and oil pressure gauges, have mechanical now but several years of vibration have caused needles to shake continuously while riding.
I cannot believe how clean the intake chamber and valve stems are, always run high-test from major supplier (exxon, chevron, etc).
PS: those expandable foam ear-plugs make excellent injector hole covers.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 05, 2016, 09:53:56 AM
Post by: F14CRAZY on February 07, 2016, 08:43:47 PM
Yesterday I stopped by BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids and ordered new front rotor bobbins and all that stuff as it has a mm or two of radial play. Also ordered the gasket for the gas door assembly (rain gets in there despite the drain being clear) and the retainers for the gas tank (bike never had them since I've owned it). I mentioned how they didn't have a discount on parts during their open house (that day) and they parts guy gave me 10% off. I'll have to call again as I forgot to order a crankcase breather hose...mine's not leaking but it's drying out.
Post by: K1300S on February 07, 2016, 10:49:40 PM
Post by: K1300S on February 07, 2016, 10:50:04 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 08, 2016, 10:43:57 AM
With any luck I'll have a ride every month this year but for January when my driveway had me iced in.
Post by: NSvane on February 11, 2016, 08:28:05 AM
So I've connected the battery for maintenance once again, and beginning to wonder what headlight and front indicators I should buy. I want to remove the fairing altogether (its a 75C), thus in need of a new headlamp and some cover for the instrument cluster.
The reason is excessive wind-effect at speeds over 80 km/h even when the windspeed is below 7 m/s... Maybe I'm too tall ;)
I also like the cleaner look without the fairing.
Post by: Folsoml on February 13, 2016, 06:07:43 AM
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b608/Folsoml/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/8D6B75D2-DDC7-4F83-862E-DD9591D53D49_zpswcyh8mzi.jpg) (http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Folsoml/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/8D6B75D2-DDC7-4F83-862E-DD9591D53D49_zpswcyh8mzi.jpg.html)
Post by: Jules on February 13, 2016, 06:44:14 PM
Went from this:
(http://i.imgur.com/DhKPjqC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JPGiULG.jpg)
To this:
(http://i.imgur.com/qR8DQIG.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3Ey8Hfm.jpg)
Used the Brembo rebuild kit, plus stainless pins, stainless nipples, and stainless banjo bolts.
Full album here: http://imgur.com/a/idjq3
Post by: KRider on February 14, 2016, 07:51:16 AM
Post by: johnny on February 14, 2016, 08:28:12 AM
those brake pads and pieces oughtta go to the motobrick museum...
j o
Post by: Scott_ on February 20, 2016, 05:31:27 PM
I purchased a couple of kits from BB last June, thinking that some day I would need one and BB was discontinuing them.........
I received them and put them on the shelf, not thinking about much...
Well today I went to the shelf and grabbed a box, looking at the label it caught my eye as a little unusual. After some further looking and measuring, I was sent 2 13mm rebuild kits for the rear's, instead of the 20mm ones I ordered. Interesting, as at the time they were indicating that they were sold out of the rear kits..... I guess lucky me.
Anyway, I didn't have any steel wool, but I was able to fine my small cyl 2 stone hone.
Cleaned everything up, honed it liberally, cleaned it again, put it all back together. Leak checked and bled.
Good strong solid lever so far, and no leaks.
I suppose if I want some front kits, Motobins is the place to go next. I got my caliper kits from them last year.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 20, 2016, 06:14:38 PM
Next job is to clean up the mess I made in the garage in preparation for doing the RT to get her ready for touring this year.
Post by: Laitch on February 20, 2016, 06:18:17 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on February 20, 2016, 09:16:23 PM
Replaced front rotor bobbins/ roll pins. I ordered OEM bobbins, washers, and circlips from the dealer. It seems my front rotors aren't just K1100 rotors as I've suspected (and that's what the bobbins are prescribed for) but they fit perfectly anyway. Radial play is almost entirely gone now. There was maybe 1-2 mm before.
Adjusted the Russell Daylong as it didn't fit in the latch quite right.
Oh yeah...also noticed when i took off the front wheel that my bike has Showa forks...the fork oil in them is the amount prescribed for Fichtel and Sachs...blame Drake and his mixing and matching...I'll drain and refill with the amount for Showa forks soon. They ride fine as they are though
Post by: K1300S on February 20, 2016, 10:16:23 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on February 21, 2016, 08:56:56 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 21, 2016, 10:13:43 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on February 21, 2016, 11:29:21 PM
Post by: K75RT Keith on February 22, 2016, 03:03:13 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 22, 2016, 05:24:15 PM
Anybody need "C" bars for their brick? $75 + shipping.
Post by: Brad-Man on February 26, 2016, 07:38:20 AM
Post by: TimTyler on February 28, 2016, 07:06:16 PM
The fuel pump filter is in poor condition and will be replaced. Mahle fuel filter is about 10k miles old so I'll replace that too.
I ran the pump in reverse on the bench for about 5 seconds to see if any gunk came out. Didn't notice any.
Got some new NBR/NBR (Nitrile butadiene rubber) submersible fuel hose from the dealer to replace what looks like the 25 year old original hose. The old hose is clear and open all the way through though.
Anybody know if dealers generally stock the fuel pump filter cups? EME's got them at almost half price but with shipping it's not such a deal.
Post by: slipring on February 28, 2016, 09:52:40 PM
Tent consists of: (3) 4x8' sheets of 1" rigid blue insulation (floor) + (3) 4x8' sheets of OSB / oriented strand board (floor) + 75' of 10' wide x 4 mil plastic sheeting (walls & ceiling) + 100 sq ft of R13 batt insulation (ceiling). (2) 48" x two-bulb flourescent light fixtures provide the illumination. (2) 1500 watt space heaters do the heating. With this setup, I've warmed the tent to 65 deg F on a 10 deg morning.
The tent has allowed me to install headlight relay kit and progressive forks this winter - something I wouldn't have tried in past winters.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20160130_174938%20x2%20x%200.25_zpsa7knptcy.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20160130_174938%20x2%20x%200.25_zpsa7knptcy.jpg.html)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20160213_163335%20x%200.33_zpsnmralxua.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20160213_163335%20x%200.33_zpsnmralxua.jpg.html)
Post by: TimTyler on February 28, 2016, 09:56:29 PM
... I built a motobrick repair tent.
(http://gateslearningblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/dexter-episode-7-11-do-you-see-what-i-see-full-size-promotional-photos-8_full.jpg)
Post by: slipring on February 28, 2016, 10:11:23 PM
Post by: WayneDW on February 29, 2016, 08:18:47 PM
Removed the fuel pump today for the first time.
Anybody know if dealers generally stock the fuel pump filter cups? EME's got them at almost half price but with shipping it's not such a deal.
Probably not. My experience is that they will order such things for you and then you don't have to pay for shipping but their prices are higher than web sellers so it can be a wash.
Post by: koapono on March 01, 2016, 06:18:12 AM
I had installed analog gauges several years ago, after exposure to that wonderful K-vibration the needles no longer remained steady.
As I had the 85 down for a full maintenance cycle; spline lube, all fluids, valve adjust, new throttle cable, etc, etc plus I had to change some rubber bits on the intake system I figured I'd swap out the analog gauges with digital.
The "well" for the water-temp gauge and oil pressure line were already in place, all I had to do was mount oil pressure sending unit and run some 12VDC power to sending units and gauges. Gauges have a dimming feature so they won't be too bright at night.
With the intake components removed there was plenty of room to mount sending unit and run wires.
Post by: K1300S on March 01, 2016, 07:36:46 AM
Post by: TimTyler on March 01, 2016, 06:28:22 PM
Anybody know if dealers generally stock the fuel pump filter cups? EME's got them at almost half price but with shipping it's not such a deal.Probably not. My experience is that they will order such things for you and then you don't have to pay for shipping but their prices are higher than web sellers so it can be a wash.
You are correct, Wayne. Dealer will overnight one for me from the warehouse so I can get the tank back together tomorrow. Will end up costing $10 more than if I got it from EME, but I'll have it one day sooner.
Post by: Nine80seven on March 05, 2016, 12:32:24 PM
So, just buy a new one?
And then the shock when BMW wants 60 bucks for a twelve dollar sensor? Why not a hundred and sixty?
And then the next query, there are tons of sensors cross referenced in various listings, to this part number. Should we stick to BMW parts? Does BMW keep these mysterious sensors in hermetically sealed warehouses, guarded by security, designed with special parameters which can only work with the specially unique LE-Jetronic system designed especially for these specific engines?
I know, a lot of questions before I just click and get my new sensor, but thought I'd ask because most K owners probably have already been treading water in this sea.
Post by: Laitch on March 05, 2016, 12:38:25 PM
Post by: TimTyler on March 05, 2016, 12:54:24 PM
85kRS, simple testing of coolant temp sensors.
I haven't replaced any sensors on my K but I know there are less expensive alternatives at http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/773.htm
Post by: Laitch on March 05, 2016, 12:55:36 PM
And then the next query, there are tons of sensors cross referenced in various listings, to this part number. Should we stick to BMW parts?There are many alternative-to-BMW parts listed in the Technical Library here so the answer to that question is "Not necessarily." Look at the Euromoto Electric site, for example, like Tim cited. When I bought my bike, I knew BMW parts could be costly. I relied on magical thinking and my mechanical experience when I searched for the one I have now because I didn't want to outlay more cash than necessary to get on the road. As they wear though, we're all required to come up with cash or innovation to keep them going. Some riders are even using Fix-Or-Repair-Daily components in them, for godsake.
Post by: Nine80seven on March 05, 2016, 01:15:41 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on March 05, 2016, 04:05:13 PM
The '84, 590 ohms, the '88, 700 ohms. Cranked the temp to 90C and 480, 540, respectively. Used digital thermometer and water, repeated.
They should have registered 300, better if 290 ohms at 80C. So, unless I'm a ham fisted lunatic, I think I need a new unit.
End of tailpipe was always black, plugs tan only on electrode and ground projection. FWIW, another afternoon ticking away. Cheers bricksters
Post by: TimTyler on March 05, 2016, 08:18:10 PM
Making room for a big ol' box or rack or somethin' on the rear end.
Post by: WayneDW on March 05, 2016, 08:21:53 PM
Post by: Scud on March 06, 2016, 02:14:54 AM
Some riders are even using Fix-Or-Repair-Daily components in them, for godsake.
My Farking Old Reliable Diesel (1997 F250) has lots of Bosch electronics and metric fasteners. It is a joy (not) to have both metric and SAE things under the same hood.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 06, 2016, 10:28:41 AM
Post by: Martin on March 06, 2016, 03:55:18 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: billday on March 06, 2016, 05:55:54 PM
Still have a ways to go.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 06, 2016, 09:13:45 PM
Next will be a good cleaning of all the stuff I removed to get at the clutch. Thinking I need to do some paint on the frame under the tank where the johnny blanket rubbed on it.
Will take some pictures tomorrow after I tidy up my work area a bit.
Post by: Martin on March 06, 2016, 10:11:14 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 06, 2016, 10:31:29 PM
I've only just started this year's foreplay on Ilsa, She-Wolf of the SS(super slab).
Post by: TimTyler on March 07, 2016, 01:44:03 PM
Cool Tim, look forward to seeing what you do with the new space. No one has ever set on my rear seat except my duffle bag, I might just follow your lead!
I mounted two 6x14" 1/4" aluminium plates to the mounting holes in the bike's frame. Fresh coat of primer and paint to the Hepco-Becker rack too.
Ordered a Happy Trail top box (http://www.happy-trail.com/motorcycle-luggage/happy-trail-luggage-systems/top-boxes/aluminum-top-box-47-liters-14-x17-x12-nc.html) that will fit the 14.5" width gap perfectly and match the tragkorbs. I'll replace those four 5/16" bolts holding the plates down with longer ones that will extend through the bottom of the top box bottom.
I need to find a brake/tail light and turn signal solution now.
Post by: tsnap on March 07, 2016, 02:04:11 PM
thx tom
Post by: TimTyler on March 07, 2016, 02:07:22 PM
Post by: tsnap on March 07, 2016, 02:11:13 PM
had a nice top box for goldwing in the garage. soon after selling, the bmw appeared without one. I will find one. Maybe a pet carrier with storm windows?
tom
Post by: Nine80seven on March 07, 2016, 03:35:09 PM
Post by: tsnap on March 07, 2016, 04:26:16 PM
tom
Post by: johnny on March 07, 2016, 05:46:30 PM
the brick of the corn getts galfer brake lines and some fresh dot 3...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_162453_zpsse5hvvso.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_162430_zpsuwgvn3mh.jpg)
i needs somebody would buy the brick of the corn sooner than later... first 6k$ rides it away... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6970.0.html)
j o
Post by: billday on March 07, 2016, 06:04:02 PM
I mounted two 6x14" 1/4" aluminium plates to the mounting holes in the bike's frame. Fresh coat of primer and paint to the Hepco-Becker rack too.
Ordered a Happy Trail top box (http://www.happy-trail.com/motorcycle-luggage/happy-trail-luggage-systems/top-boxes/aluminum-top-box-47-liters-14-x17-x12-nc.html) that will fit the 14.5" width gap perfectly and match the tragkorbs. I'll replace those four 5/16" bolts holding the plates down with longer ones that will extend through the bottom of the top box bottom.
I need to find a brake/tail light and turn signal solution now.
[/quote]
It's gonna be a CAFE RACER in no time.
I think your rear shock may be upside down. Or maybe mine is.
Post by: Scud on March 07, 2016, 06:11:14 PM
I mounted two 6x14" 1/4" aluminium plates to the mounting holes in the bike's frame. Fresh coat of primer and paint to the Hepco-Becker rack too.
Ordered a Happy Trail top box (http://www.happy-trail.com/motorcycle-luggage/happy-trail-luggage-systems/top-boxes/aluminum-top-box-47-liters-14-x17-x12-nc.html) that will fit the 14.5" width gap perfectly and match the tragkorbs. I'll replace those four 5/16" bolts holding the plates down with longer ones that will extend through the bottom of the top box bottom.
I need to find a brake/tail light and turn signal solution now.
You sure are using that bike to it's fullest potential. Watch out with that paint though, once you start painting you look around and think - I'll just dab a little here too... and then you're on the slippery slope...
You could flush-mount some turn signals to that box with the wires coming up through the bottom. That would put them up nice and high. I'm assuming the signals wouldn't get covered by other luggage.
Post by: WayneDW on March 07, 2016, 08:20:53 PM
Ordered a Happy Trail top box (http://www.happy-trail.com/motorcycle-luggage/happy-trail-luggage-systems/top-boxes/aluminum-top-box-47-liters-14-x17-x12-nc.html) that will fit the 14.5" width gap perfectly and match the tragkorbs. I'll replace those four 5/16" bolts holding the plates down with longer ones that will extend through the bottom of the top box bottom.
Cool, Available in any color you want, as long as it's black!:
"Powder Coat: In order to provide superior customer service, we now offer our tragkorbs and top boxes finished in Hammertone Black powder coat only."
Post by: WayneDW on March 07, 2016, 08:24:48 PM
Post by: bizzaro on March 12, 2016, 08:37:26 PM
I have to get to the splines soon. And also the brakes need attention. Does anybody know of any manufacturer that has the specs to make up SS braided brake lines for a 94 K1100LT? Or do you have to send them the old ones for them to copy?
Post by: rbm on March 12, 2016, 08:48:33 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 12, 2016, 10:54:58 PM
The starter countershaft gear was pretty scuffed up on the face of the teeth. Looks like the previous owner was in there before me and buggered some stuff. Fortunately, I didn't have to buy anything since I had good parts from an old engine I bought last December.
Pissed me off that I didn't notice the the whack splines until I had the intermediate housing and clutch installed and I went to put the alternator dog back on. Now I got to get a new clutch o-ring, and the clutch won't go back on until Monday or Tuesday. This damn job is dragging now and it's getting on my nerves.
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 13, 2016, 02:33:07 PM
Replaced the gasket between the filler door assembly and the tank (from the dealer). Used emery cloth to clean up the corrosion between the two (using a rag to keep most of the crap from falling into the tank).
Pulled out the pump. Strainer is in good shape and didn't have too much debris but I cleaned that off with brake cleaner (what else). Rubber isolator is still in good shape too and not crumbling apart like how I read it often does.
Replaced the fuel filter too. It already had a Napa Gold 3032 there so I ran to the store closest by me and picked up one of those (under $5).
And before all this I tipped the tank upside down and drained all the gas/rain water then tipped it and soaked up the rest with a rag. And wiped out what particles I could with a rag soaked with brake cleaner.
Then put it all back together. I didn't have any anti-seize handy (till I found a tube after I finished everything) so I put some Honda Moly 60 on the screws. Makes sense to me with how moly is major ingredient in anti seize compounds.
Filled it back up with 5 gallons (measured by a gas pump, in a can) with a dose of Lucas injector cleaner...I'm not sure it's the best but one of my mom's rental tenants left a gallon of it so I have what seems like a lifetime supply
Post by: RobP on March 13, 2016, 04:04:21 PM
Quote
Does anybody know of any manufacturer that has the specs to make up SS braided brake lines for a 94 K1100LT?
Spiegler makes SS brake lines. See ebay listings - I bought a set for my K100RS there.
Post by: Bill on March 13, 2016, 06:03:18 PM
Post by: TimTyler on March 15, 2016, 09:35:50 PM
do you think you might want the top case removeable at night? semi quick release
Like the tragkorbs, there's no way to remove the top case from the bike when it's locked so it should be fairly secure. The stuff I plan to keep in the top case will be easy to remove and pack into a motel.
Here's how it ended up. It's kind of boxy. I added LED turn signals and a tail/brake light to the top case wired through a quick disconnect cable. There are also LED turn signals on the tragkorbs. Got the large LED brake light (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OPT1/STL78RK/N0389.oap) that's mounted to the rack's steel cross-support at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. The fender is a piece of ABS (http://amzn.to/1U5ZSgB) I got from Amazon.
Post by: TrueAce on March 15, 2016, 10:19:17 PM
Post by: TimTyler on March 15, 2016, 10:42:52 PM
Looking good, TT, you've done a lot in the off-season. Like the tail box a lot. Hate to mention this given everything is all neat and tidy, but is the rear tread getting low?
Why, yes it is, TrueAce.
I gots me a brand new tire mounted and waiting on the clothes dryer. Probably swap wheels out next month.
Post by: TrueAce on March 15, 2016, 11:11:11 PM
Post by: Martin on March 16, 2016, 03:33:39 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on March 16, 2016, 08:44:58 AM
And how do you go mounting up . . .The modified attic ladder has been cleverly hidden.
Post by: tsnap on March 16, 2016, 08:47:43 AM
tom
Post by: slipring on March 16, 2016, 07:26:47 PM
1. Clean and lube headlight switch - awesome instructions @ http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/hi-low_beam_switch/
2. Install headlight relay kit (Canadian made; via Japan)
3. Install new bulb (German made; via Russia)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/merge%20x%200.25_zpstgvjhthx.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/merge%20x%200.25_zpstgvjhthx.jpg.html)
Post by: slipring on March 16, 2016, 07:28:52 PM
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/bike%20n%20beer%20x%200.30_zpsdexypju4.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/bike%20n%20beer%20x%200.30_zpsdexypju4.jpg.html)
Post by: beemrdon on March 16, 2016, 07:49:55 PM
I'm not a fortune teller (although I play one on TV) but I predict a GS in your future.
Post by: TimTyler on March 17, 2016, 10:28:22 AM
Boxer conversion kit?
Hepco-Becker rack made for K75's.
I'm not a fortune teller (although I play one on TV) but I predict a GS in your future.
Could be.
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 17, 2016, 10:37:54 AM
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 17, 2016, 10:39:47 AM
Tim,
I'm not a fortune teller (although I play one on TV) but I predict a GS in your future.
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d0/51/2c/d0512c4f41f138390020297126b1d921.jpg)
Post by: beemrdon on March 17, 2016, 09:12:36 PM
To Whomever, well done... :clap:
Crazy, any details on that thing?
Post by: F14CRAZY on March 18, 2016, 06:24:25 AM
That is a very K-ool K75(GS)!
To Whomever, well done... :clap:
Crazy, any details on that thing?
unfortunately all I know is that it's the 2nd hit in Google images under "bmw k75gs"
Post by: Scud on March 18, 2016, 09:52:31 AM
Post by: beemrdon on March 18, 2016, 10:08:03 AM
Post by: Scud on March 18, 2016, 10:22:31 AM
Post by: beemrdon on March 18, 2016, 11:25:42 AM
BTW, Where did you buy yours?
Post by: Scud on March 18, 2016, 02:51:35 PM
I bought number SB1010S for the rear Brembo brakes on my Moto Guzzis and lucked out that they also fit the Brembo front brakes on the K75s. Now I have to buy some more speedbleeders for my Guzzis.
This is the first time I've ever used speedbleeders - they're so cool. Just crack the bleeder valve and pump away till the bubbles stop - I'm going to put these on everything. And I'll probably really flush the fluid every year because it's so easy and fast.
Post by: rbm on March 18, 2016, 03:17:02 PM
Post by: beemrdon on March 18, 2016, 03:26:33 PM
I want them for my Volvo too.
Post by: Scud on March 18, 2016, 03:28:04 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 18, 2016, 05:47:37 PM
The nasty clank at idle is gone. She now sounds as good as she looks.
Post by: Martin on March 18, 2016, 09:37:46 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 19, 2016, 02:08:39 AM
Next job is putting cruise control on her, and then repairing some crap wire I bought for the running lights. Then I'm gonna ride the heck out of her.
Post by: Martin on March 19, 2016, 03:41:15 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2016, 05:22:24 PM
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160326_142435_zpsacgzwcg3.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160326_153628_zps1xbq3hdu.jpg)
j o
Post by: beemrdon on March 26, 2016, 05:52:42 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2016, 05:56:03 PM
No clank, and a much reduced level of cacophony and vibration at cruising speed. With the fresh charge on the Works rear shock and a new Tourmaster on the back she inspires a bit more confidence in the corners. She seems to enjoy whatever flogging this old boy is able to administer to her. The new(to me) Russel seat with backrest adds a nice touch of lumbar support, especially on acceleration where it definitely takes the load off my arms. Only issue is that I have to slide forward and stand up when I stop. Could be a pain in the ass in traffic. Only other area of concern is a light film of oil forming behind the ignition coils around the joint between the intermediate housing and the transmission. I am suspecting(and hoping) it's a funky starter o-ring.
Otherwise...YeeeeeeeHaaaaaaaa!!!
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2016, 06:27:11 PM
this is what i do at the beginning of the riding season...
i go for a ride to getts the fork oil hot... then i drain it out... then i fill it 350/400mm respectfully with atf fluid... then i wipe down the fork tubes with atf and fill the space between the seals and dust cover with atf... then i go for a ride to getts the atf hot... then i drain it out and fill it up with pro honda ss8-10w suspension fluid and clean out under the dust covers...
this process conditions the seals and cleans out the goo in the forks...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160326_171701_zpssdljmyrm.jpg)
since im gonna drain the forks a second time... figger i would change the oil a second time... so i used cheap hi detergent 10w30 with a full bottle of seafoam as other have done here before me... then changed it with mobile 1 15w50... man o man that new oil was black... im gonna starting doing that at the beginning of the season too...
j o
Post by: beemrdon on March 26, 2016, 06:45:56 PM
Post by: TrueAce on March 26, 2016, 07:13:34 PM
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2016, 11:45:37 PM
had not been outta hibernation long enough to getts all the fluids for 2016... butts it did getts all the fluids except the seafoam in 2015... low miles = no seafoam...
the brick of the corn has less than 1000 miles on the fluids... butts the unheated garage in the chee whacks the fluids over the winter... prolly donts needs new fluids... butts if it was gonna stay here i would be doing the this weekend or next...
j o
Post by: Scott_ on March 27, 2016, 10:06:52 PM
Seems that the radiator outlet for the water pump(where the large hose connects under the thermostat) is spider cracked and seeping water out when under pressure. Kind of surprised considering how thick that plastic is....
Soo, will need to replace the radiator next... fortunately I have one from a 3-core upgrade on the '95 a few years ago.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on March 28, 2016, 05:39:45 PM
But, yesterday I took a nice ride, first one since my test ride before buying the bike.
First time up the road I had trouble shifting and had to return home. PO is smaller than I, with smaller feet. Once I adjusted the shift lever up by a few splines all was well. The engine runs well. However, I will need time to get used to riding this machine. For one thing, it's about 200lbs heavier than my BSA. For another, it's been over 20 years since I rode anything with the shifter on the left.
Just need to buy some luggage and find some good shows to attend.
Post by: F14CRAZY on April 02, 2016, 10:42:27 PM
Is the nasty rust that shows up on my wheel after riding in the wet because of metallic brake pads?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PBZClECWRojlRB3ELqQw0X4gmQ7wV4gAJXgRkvhuv7hHtkwsegUFV8Wv8sPh-0GcelYyOs_MIF-zokGbDXLvpbpCuSMtvKN8yrV0l3Xv5oO5gw68fw3JFt-Fvfy7qgQJ6nysGpt_79iVVsPvLWDQQQXQbNc4mXffvKay0_8iJCYC09t_R1_USbVdJmR2YSu9VSixzD3Qg8BZj0ZzNmz7vAWFJdPfQD0dHCxs8AVgAgyGq-zo1TDh5-ULVVltFDgPSpojqA93CydgNQgpaiGLIgjavcyoEJbguLO7yM5qUsjotXliIjy_6wrTDUgvUZc17S21qk_QYCeUmTfzHUrQ7QuRa1ICzB3Z3t2tbVp91QdLs16NpuoVJkIB7kEV5AcfL84KvuxntxNCaoLXLd85m6vXq0BRX08uk6JIm_k6G3ylXcWnpAYprHQMIKcar4UwoyQLqfCxv-6Hm8zw4HKMGBpKjX4qiLm7JbUeVD-dR3qqbh_taF064vRMlIlfE8uhGoQgV0ANFJ9AMOnBy1epdetHZly1TSQtfWpxU91aP2-9r7dG-LUg5tJyrojpXtRgKs3TkA=w1184-h666-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LGHCq9K-RWguCq0p0okVgFq6UZTwW2kjKjlkuQlfPYVl496XrRFE383jdokzXhgPJ3WqahsDUZ81GEtXmz0_975jxzkRZT2RNnEg0tdpFeksyP1-7DnhEYmbcBPDOpnjfTOWLIEmyGSHfRvYDBbodceHwIHzs2cvM9YqDEAPzMokzJOTdNJWsbsTrIIWA1qA5_LxSIp_wjOSLb_eupmqjti473IBjkhLEjHR5gUN7BT8APpSnwAJIgn0xHJwOYUFciRrVsZI-c8n_8qcl1K_j2zuXRSRqzb6ZiHxZliw7fmev58bnz5GMIqt0XW7ss1Fb4z-_N5JvaCW1N7tSF4trQttvdAi1G5qk7f6BUG6MF_J067MWxV7209o24L-Pg6-RJYKPw-LAEc0mRWZLlnHnril-FR0oRWPGvVQ2h1sukdqWngWx0AwOAgg3fJLXV51Qx8d43EhO67UuAx2loqmCw4o8q97Tp8tPy4AD1zvpkL1cpjd_iYcKPfetpCRLAu8KP1dlogRg2544DPfwW8l_P7wHv8PF0Wr4ytBntgD1FcHUua40KkcuLVuZG-0JBfv1e47mw=w1184-h666-no)
A wheel cleaning brush I picked up at Autozone worked great for the wheels. I used Purple Power and a still nylon bristle brush to get the rust preventive off of the metal surfaces I sprayed it on. I was at the u-spray car wash so everything was decently power washed too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dEk66eAlCKuaeCxIb_0XVxVZxQyuPI83P3G2jR4ctI_gNYzu2UOl7EUDG-usy1mSDMseEPzNaevRl9DoYXSMCbmdtHzoSQtENAWdllnJ4DOQ0SvZWcbyu00Zqh3to0UfQHMp5HCggI0Y55VyrtoK8FsPNNs8dAMx3DLMwDBZf-80HbmNXBUTzMbSnzvNpo_3dZSNSJFi8aTc2KN8KQ6j6L-945SdoaA5-HOwKy_OhAv-r3-SrxsgBntVhA5u5n_5WE_mxVmdGkzf1wI1zAEXzgP2q_g1AdqvADyPRZon8t9zhtvjemST10nZvbNVBFZz8IG60csxF36qV9d6Kvcu5iDw5Q35ny541EuNBay63Thp-m0lgFSn1BQ4Ntmyx3OI9iJcc_cBv3Ba_T4IFhZffS1UyJQGPaylgxa_CubBPtCYEPSvWzDBCnWcBJNFjoVpfkfnsJIkZLEnhUMlCPMifycBXgVTSuRKT5Jw6m9buXP7ghaUB4OktfoE5ppaZ_93kvI3_GPZe2oCXfJHSS7MrY9MIKJ3piI1rrLVInz5NxxaWZWDo46WjppdMXLeB1VWB8to1Q=w1184-h666-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dnEODqAmCmzwvlU2FCdxe5UdbZUUG63Ov5pdfWRAAhu08r1QNbu2euqtBdbyY4nVuoTZOnWrQmef15nruUkT3vghQbOfXN3Dp8EBEQpAXyd37JCnePlr0ClzBmGN7947OrC7Z96YQTFt3jJSo-UkbSku18io7T4oa0dYwWgTvDSN1WmH0jt8HhtsqHAcHsU7ojCuKfMkwUJlzO6FSDaRMvqMdVsIiIwfilmWygMsZU5Q-YlN223z8QTQWP4iTlmX-tmTQk24_bAOdIPDe_4y23iQPpaPUeh1xhse552yEbjvy060yVrXeBCXcJZbh3g1nrs5WrKjL6_sY61DBYOJPxIfpSjXs3i0XkJkMoWLHLADdTadP_bEDaPGlxWu0WdIosj3wtPe1V7Q1waE3NVr1NXlZRrMlCtBC4LkUlRJcf8rh77P9BG-9XeMx9p4R7az637uUyEkuxvCfa7BO0evx0W120DSVqC3JxVK0Ib6Qgl30kj7yQvE9wyXhjT1IjYX4Z7w8AUrcHomFsiUPtjQmtoxcpbGKmOQ5TibbqdbvaVjimltFl_-UTzzadPYDFmZu222qg=w1184-h666-no)
I still plan on fixing the fairing and painting this summer.
Post by: beemrdon on April 03, 2016, 12:38:40 AM
Post by: Dennis de Vries on April 03, 2016, 01:25:59 PM
Post by: K1300S on April 03, 2016, 07:14:36 PM
Post by: saha6818 on April 12, 2016, 03:12:12 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdyZdPIuwEQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdyZdPIuwEQ)
I expect I might rejoin the ranks of happy K100 owners someday.
Post by: saha6818 on April 12, 2016, 03:13:55 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2016, 10:52:38 AM
Ready for a summer of yeehaaa! (At least as much yeehaa as you can get on an RT.)
Post by: Nine80seven on April 13, 2016, 11:48:06 AM
Post by: Chaos on April 13, 2016, 12:32:31 PM
Post by: TrueAce on April 13, 2016, 01:39:14 PM
Post by: beemrdon on April 13, 2016, 02:16:48 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2016, 05:17:07 PM
What?! :mbird You kept it an RT and didn't do the cafe thing? What's wrong with you :clap:
Next winter...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2016, 05:21:11 PM
Cafe bikes are for the four minute wonders.
Post by: Elipten on April 13, 2016, 05:37:04 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on April 13, 2016, 05:52:03 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2016, 06:43:46 PM
With valves all shimmed for equal clearance, throttle bodies balanced, new air filter, ignition advanced a couple degrees and a good clutch lube she feels at least 50 lb lighter and the throttle response has NEVER been smoother. Inching along in traffic and hardly had to dab.
Still can't find any palm trees though.
Post by: WayneDW on April 13, 2016, 07:43:53 PM
Post by: ICBMW on April 13, 2016, 08:19:51 PM
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: Scud on April 13, 2016, 08:36:26 PM
New ones are listed for about $350 at Max's.
Post by: TrueAce on April 13, 2016, 09:47:37 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2016, 11:04:35 PM
Post by: Martin on April 14, 2016, 03:12:43 AM
Yeee Haaaa.
Post by: Bill on April 16, 2016, 09:02:09 PM
I bled out all the DOT 4 and flushed/ filled with DOT 5 . Checked with a 50 km ride. :riding:
Once the engine was nicely warm, an oil and filter change with Mobil 1 0W-40 :2thumbup:
Proceeded to a 150 km bug collection exercise where the engine ticked over to 140,000 km :bmwsmile
Post by: Laitch on April 16, 2016, 09:22:22 PM
I bled out all the DOT 4 and flushed/ filled with DOT 5 .Why use DOT 5, Bill?
Post by: Bill on April 16, 2016, 09:36:49 PM
DOT 3 and 4 are hydroscopic and will pull water from the air as they cool. Given the wider temp swings I've seen in my neighbourhood lately it seemed like a good choice. I've also read about other brickers and corrosion problems in their brake systems.
Post by: Laitch on April 16, 2016, 09:57:58 PM
DOT 5 is silicone based and has a higher boiling point than glycol based 3 and 4.That's an understandable concern. A system that is bled yearly shouldn't be plagued by moisture problems. DOT 3 attracts more moisture than DOT 4.
DOT 3 and 4 are hydroscopic and will pull water from the air as they cool. Given the wider temp swings I've seen in my neighbourhood lately it seemed like a good choice. I've also read about other brickers and corrosion problems in their brake systems.
What concerns me is the extra expense, references to "sponginess" in the brakes and references like this one (http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/brake_fluids_and_abs) to ABS incompatibility and this one (http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?1878-DOT-5-Brake-Fluid&p=15590&viewfull=1#post15590).
I just take the least costly approach especially when it's recommended, but I hope you'll post a review of DOT 5 performance in your bike's brake system once you've given it a good trial.
Post by: Scud on April 16, 2016, 10:58:06 PM
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 can be used in the same systems. But if I understand it correctly, DOT 5 can cause your seals to swell. Better do some quick research and decide whether you are comfortable with that. Swollen seals can cause bad things, such as stuck pistons.
Post by: beemrdon on April 16, 2016, 11:06:58 PM
Post by: Dennis de Vries on April 17, 2016, 03:24:20 AM
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk
Post by: Bill on April 17, 2016, 09:49:38 AM
Thanks for the heads up warning, I just didn't read far enough beyond what I wanted hear.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 17, 2016, 09:57:41 AM
Left to right they are Cheetos, Ilsa, and Moby Brick.
Post by: Scud on April 17, 2016, 10:39:24 AM
Maybe you need a naked brick to round out the collection... or a K1...
Post by: Laitch on April 17, 2016, 10:51:21 AM
Post by: Bill on April 17, 2016, 01:21:21 PM
Post by: Scud on April 17, 2016, 01:42:40 PM
Will be dumping it straight away this morning ! Hopefully 24 hours and 200 km isn't long enough to damage things. In my bleeder bag they did not mix but will check that again. My ride after showed no ill but then again I didn't work them hard.
Thanks for the heads up warning, I just didn't read far enough beyond what I wanted hear.
Good idea to dump - and I hate to be sounding too loud of an alarm if it's not warranted. But the fact that the DOT 5 was in the system - and at operating temperature - is concerning. Flushing - and I mean really flushing with a lot of fluid - is a good thing. But is it too late? I don't know. If it was me, Id' do a little more research before riding it again. Seals, when exposed the wrong stuff, can swell pretty quickly. I tested this myself a while ago with some old seals, they swelled very noticeably (like 150% of normal size) when soaked in engine oil and WD-40. No effect at all with brake cleaner. I did not test DOT 5 fluid. I would consider rebuilding at least the master cylinders and the calipers - then you have to wonder about the ABS pumps too.
Again, I don't know for sure whether you have a big problem or not - so flush it and then do your research - maybe call a dealer or trusted service advisor who may have seen this before.
Post by: Bill on April 17, 2016, 01:56:47 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 17, 2016, 02:29:46 PM
Checked the bleeder bag again this morning and there was a clear delineation between the two types.I think you're in the clear, so to speak, Bill and am glad you flushed it so thoroughly. Use of DOT 5 in our bikes is unquestionably controversial.
Here's a seemingly, hellishly researched view (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm) of brake fluid types. Notice, though, he's not talk about braking with only two wheels in a downhill twisty.
At the end of the day, you won't go wrong using DOT 4 if changing it every year or two, unless, of course, you slosh it on the paint and don't wipe it off in a hurry.
Post by: Bill on April 17, 2016, 05:46:31 PM
One read gave me an new term ... suggesting that DOT 5 lacked LUBICITY hence unsuitable for ABS systems. That source covered it self with 'citation needed'
Post by: rbm on April 17, 2016, 06:01:51 PM
the dot 4 can keep if you can store it in a collapsible container where you can expel all the air. There are plastic accordion containers you can get.
Post by: herseyb on April 18, 2016, 10:59:30 AM
Post by: johnny on April 18, 2016, 11:11:41 AM
saturday... im rolling the driftless... are you in...
j o
Post by: Nine80seven on April 18, 2016, 11:59:42 AM
Post by: herseyb on April 18, 2016, 12:45:59 PM
Post by: Bill on April 18, 2016, 12:48:45 PM
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
Post by: Chaos on April 18, 2016, 02:57:11 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on April 19, 2016, 11:29:04 AM
Post by: slipring on April 21, 2016, 01:39:02 PM
Right case: stove (yellow); tent (grey); sleeping pad (green); pillow (blue)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20151003_115226_zpstymjggb7.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20151003_115226_zpstymjggb7.jpg.html)
Left case: camp chair (adapts sleeping pad) (red); sleeping bag (yellow); extra water (clear); just-in-case towel (light blue); backpack/duffel (blue)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20151003_115214%20-%204x6_zpsazo7ahoh.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20151003_115214%20-%204x6_zpsazo7ahoh.jpg.html)
Trunk: water (grey); food (purple); misc supplies (orange)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20151003_115234%20-%204x6_zpss67rowtp.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20151003_115234%20-%204x6_zpss67rowtp.jpg.html)
Ready for 1/2 mile camp site hike-in at Iowa's Preparation Canyon State Park
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/theidrathers/20151004_092545%20-%204x6_zpsk9uxndgj.jpg) (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/theidrathers/media/20151004_092545%20-%204x6_zpsk9uxndgj.jpg.html)
Post by: Laitch on April 21, 2016, 10:09:49 PM
Really, going into the tank was almost pointless, although I'm glad to have secured the pump. It only mattered to me though; the bike didn't seem affected. I'm convinced that as long as I run this bike far and often, it'll clean itself like a cat. This bike gets a steady diet of 89 octane (AKI) gasohol.
Post by: Vespa no more on April 22, 2016, 12:18:05 AM
So near and so far.
Starting problems: runs and then cuts out after approx 5mins. Refuses to restart until the next day. I'm thinking electrical. If it were a carburettor machine, I would have thought fuel supply (ala float jammed, fuel bowl not refilling).
The nots:
battery good (new and tested and fully charged), fuel good, fuel pump working (newish), fuel injectors serviced, earth connection good, Deoxit-ed the ignition module lead and the 4 wire lead rhs behind tank, Was working well.
Possibles:
Pulled distributor, brushes low but within specs (5.25mm and 7mm), cleaned connections,... when testing output into battery MM went to 0 (zero). Not sure that it is recharging battery, but this is not relevent at the moment (CTEK charger connected and battery fully charged)
Spark plugs not new but cleaned, gapped and light blue spark. Was yellow until I deoxited the 4 wire connector on RHS.
Unable to get starter motor out (first attempt) left it in. However starter motor works strongly when battery fully charged.
Crankcase ventilation hose has minor crack... tapped up... on order... but bike has run well with it in this condition
Have been playing around with the choke cable adjustment and idle screw but nothing dramatic... very close to specs in Clymer manual
Red light on dash - first occured when I pinched the electrical lead under the RHS foot peg mount. Rexamined this, only one wire exposed, heat shrink and tape used to cover this. However, light still on.
Took it in to get legal and bike worked well. Failed on two "small" issues (Hall sensor seal leak and throttle cable)... Bike started doing its thing after me trying to loosen cable tension (revs were rising on full lock). But my thinking is that this shouldn't affect much other than the take up of the throttle.
When starting, I need to have the choke initially in position 1 then back to 2 and it will start. Needs to warm up before it will freely respond to revving.
I'm thinking that it is electrical. Will take the fuel injection rail out and confirm fuel out of injectors.
Are there any electrical things that heat up, overload and switch off. Or should I just go an buy a fuel injector relay?
Christ... I can hear Laitch (selecting one of 2 or three imogees) and adopting that tone "And have you deoxited the relays?" uhm... not yet.
Had to walk away for the sake of sanity.
So I'm out of excuses and have had to return to marking essays on Huck Finn (yes I am in Arsetrayah) - and the last one was largely plagarized.
Busted.
Went to print out Bert's excellent flowcharts and printer has gone phut.
Any quick ideas?
regards
Guy
Post by: Chaos on April 22, 2016, 02:11:42 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 22, 2016, 02:21:40 AM
Once it quits, can you get things running again by spraying a bunch of water on the front of the engine to cool things down? if that doesn't do it, then the problem may be in the ignition controller at the front of the frame under the tank.
Post by: Laitch on April 22, 2016, 02:32:32 AM
I'm thinking electrical.On a K-bike, something electrical is usually the problem, around here anyway. Don't buy anything yet until your printer is working or you can follow Vogel's lead on a screen.
Have you given the starter relay a smack or two with a screwdriver handle, Guy? If that gets things going, it indicates a problem, and helps relieve stress, too. Tapping a failing relay gets response now and then. The only time my bike has had an intermittent shutdown was when the Jetronic plug wasn't making a firm connection because its latch was unsprung. Unplugging it, replugging it and increasing latch tension fixed it.
As far as testing the Hall Effect sensor goes, this test was the easiest for me to understand.
Could it be the Hall Effect sensor?Yes.............to test: remove the T-shaped cover in front of the engine (be careful with the gasket).
With a cold engine, heat up both HES with a hair drier....start, then the engine should stop much
earlier...if it's one of the HES that is the problem.
Post by: TrueAce on April 22, 2016, 03:25:25 AM
Post by: TrueAce on April 22, 2016, 03:27:01 AM
Post by: Bill on April 22, 2016, 05:46:50 PM
1. A main fairing bracket compromised by rust.
2. Seized cooling fan.
3. How tightly packed everything is ....
My parts bike has:
a free wheeling fan :2thumbup:
a good fairing bracket.
Working theory on 'running rich' is that the PO removed thermostat to compensate for the dead fan, causing the engine to run cold. The FICU then keeps the mix rich to compensate. As I have to drain coolant to re and re the fan I can check for the thermostat and also get at the temp sender to check values.
First time having the K this open so I can now get familiar with where everything is ....... maybe I'll find that elusive 'Altitude ' plug :yes
Post by: Vespa no more on April 24, 2016, 06:55:17 AM
Printer now working and will print out Bert's excellent diagrams.
Hairdryer located. Time poor at the moment but will no doubt find myself in the garage soon enough.
Will keep you posted.
Just in case, when I try to restart the bike, the whole starting action is very weak - just like the battery is low on charge. As a result the bike doesn't ignite and idle. Is this consistent with a poor starter relay (I would have thought that I would get nothing - no response at the starter motor) or a failing Hall Effect Sensor? I tried to pull the starter motor out to clean the brushes but it resisted my advances and wasn't removed. I would roll the bike down the driveway and follow Johnny's suggestion for clearing the brushes but the driveway is steepish and dirty brushes wouldn't account for cutting out...
The bike does have a starting problem. It is reluctant to start unless full then partial choke is used. In this regard, I am thinking the mix is lean and have order a replacement crankcase ventilation hose. Once idling, it needs to be warmed up before it will rev freely. Is the fuel charge (through the injectors) not adjustable? I am assuming that any leaning of the mix is the result of air leaks in old / failed rubber hoses. Screw adjusters around the throttle body seem to adjust idle speed and choke leverage not the mixture.
Enough.
Will be sniffing around it and following all your much appreciated advice.
Thanks again
Guy
Post by: TrueAce on April 24, 2016, 11:04:39 AM
Post by: TrueAce on April 24, 2016, 11:05:06 AM
Post by: Scott_ on April 24, 2016, 05:09:48 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on April 25, 2016, 04:33:02 AM
The battery is a 21AH Motobatt. New in Nov 2015. I have taken it back twice.
First time my fault - not using the car setting on the CTEK charger to charge it. 14.4Ah plus = car setting in the manual.
The second time (last week) and it was tested against a new battery - both gave the same setting (resistance test??).
Shop owner told me that the battery is fine and is not getting drained - ie no demands on the battery pointing to the starter motor brushes or the relay (haven't had time to get back to the shed / garage).
However, when I got home and put it onto the CTEK (after my dog had chewed the leads off), it registered the 3rd LED of 8 (ie undercharged).
My suggestion to others is to get a big battery. The original BMW was something like 32AH. Motobatt and others do do a similar 30-32 Ah battery (in Aust approx $253).
Will get back down the shed and will jump start from the car battery to eliminate this doubt. Will also go through the connections and the relay and the brushes... for now!
Have not followed Johnny's suggestions to reverse the bike in 3rd and release the clutch to clean the brushes. Yet.
Regards
Guy
Post by: Scott_ on April 25, 2016, 09:19:16 AM
That's what I keep thinking
The battery is a 21AH Motobatt. New in Nov 2015. I have taken it back twice.
............. The original BMW was something like 32AH. Motobatt and others do do a similar 30-32 Ah battery (in Aust approx $253)........
I did some looking and noticed that many older bmw bikes(R's and early K's) used a 25Ah lead acid battery.
More of the later models(R's and newer K's) came with a 19Ah sealed battery.
Some list both. So I'd say you are probably good with the battery you have as far as Ah rating.
Post by: johnny on April 25, 2016, 09:45:55 AM
greetings...
my 2 recent battery buys...
1) 16ah odyssey in the brick of the corn (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries/pc680_series.htm)...
2) 20ah westco in the bug2 (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/westco12v20p.html)...
my previous 680 lasted 5 years... my previous westco lasted 5 years... im 5 and out... no need to f with a hundert dollar no go on down the road...
j o
Post by: Chaos on April 25, 2016, 01:10:13 PM
Post by: bizzaro on April 25, 2016, 08:53:45 PM
All went pretty well. I did bugger up the left side swing arm bolt a bit.(aluminum) but finally got it in, threaded, torqued properly etc. It is all back together and it shifts fine. A strange thing, everybody says downshifting deteriorates with lube failure. On my K, it likes to clunk from 1st to 2nd? And up-shifting overall is trickier? Whats up with that. It did this before the lube, and does it still. If I preload the shifter, (more foot, less clutch) it shifts smoothly) any insight here greatly appreciated. But all in all, I am happy that the Guard Dog is on the splines, and it is done! It should be good for 20K or so.
I also installed a New Ram Shox! :2thumbup: Freaken sweet!!. :2thumbup: Just Wow! If you need a shock now is the time to buy, with the U S dollar Strong! :riding: It cost me like $320 American shipped to my door. Great guys to deal with, and what a difference in ride. Of course I am pretty sure I had the OEM piece o shit that was on the bike before I switched it out. I haven't even had a chance to fine tune it and it is amazing the difference in handling and ride.
See Ya in the Twisties,
Bizz
Post by: tsnap on April 25, 2016, 09:05:20 PM
tom
Post by: tsnap on April 25, 2016, 09:27:53 PM
Post by: bizzaro on April 25, 2016, 09:34:19 PM
Post by: johnny on April 25, 2016, 10:26:56 PM
you know the 1100's donts need that infamous clutch lube like the 75's and 100's... its all different in there with hardened components...
when the clutch goes out is when you do that infamous clutch lube on the 1100's...
the bug splines looked brand new at 100,000 miles and it was never apart...
the u joints fail on the 1100's butts not the splines...
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 25, 2016, 10:39:02 PM
I agree that less clutch makes shifting smoother. Just flicking the clutch lever when shifting makes thing happen really nice and smooth.
Last, I have gotten an ounce of 1.5 micron molybdenum disulfide powder. I put two heaping teaspoons in the transmission and one teaspoon in the final drive. After about a hundred miles the shifting has become noticeably smoother with virtually no missed shifts. The powder coats the metal of the transmission parts and even under very high pressure provides a low coefficient of friction. This powder is used in helicopter gearboxes and in the transmissions by Nascar teams who report that it lowers temperatures noticeably.
Post by: johnny on April 25, 2016, 10:46:42 PM
Post by: tsnap on April 25, 2016, 10:55:26 PM
Where can I read about that engineering improvement?
tom
Post by: tsnap on April 25, 2016, 10:59:50 PM
tom
Post by: bizzaro on April 26, 2016, 12:34:31 PM
greetings...
you know the 1100's donts need that infamous clutch lube like the 75's and 100's... its all different in there with hardened components...
when the clutch goes out is when you do that infamous clutch lube on the 1100's...
the bug splines looked brand new at 100,000 miles and it was never apart...
the u joints fail on the 1100's butts not the splines...
j o
:yow NOW YA TELL ME!! :dunno . That is the first I have ever heard of it. I have been around the block a few times on this forum, and it has never cropped up. :dunno2: It was not mentioned in Ducks tech write up about spline lube on the K1100's. Damn! I sure wish I would o known. It would have saved me a bunch of work and time. That would explain why my splines looked so good! And I thought it was from my "Supernatural throttle control and shifting ability".............................. :hehehe
So where do you get the powdered moly guys? And is it really pricey I guess? Thanks Gryph and Johnny for the info.
I did not take the clutch pack apart. It looked fine. Also not a hint of oil at the rear engine seal, or the tranny seals, so I left those alone as well. I do believe in P M, but also with my limited skills, knowledge, and facilities, (both in tools and space), I am also a proponent of "if, it ain't broke, don't fix it"! :2thumbup: I want to ride the bike, not just work on it. Especially at my snail pace of work progress. So what is the life expectancy of the K1100 clutch?
Tsnap. Glad you like the color, It is pretty sweet , though not that visible on the road. I can't decide if it is green or blue. I think is says green on the original sales receipt, but I wrote blue on the registration. Sadly it is buggered up a bit. I wish you would change your avatar..................makes me sad every time I see it! :musicboohoo:
Post by: tsnap on April 26, 2016, 01:04:20 PM
I glanced to my right outside mirror, just as he slid in the dust and gravel, and hit the pole just behind and to the right of me, full speed, maybe 50-60 mph, climbing it about 10 feet, then falling back to the ground. The fairing disintegrated in a blur of plastic shrapnel, and the pole wagged and threw the bike a few feet backwards. He also hit the ground.
Having some medical training, I made a u turn and blocked oncoming traffic, and tried to help the guy, who was out like a light, Waitresses from the waffle house came running, as did customers of area businesses. I was checking the guy over, when I heard the buzz of the engines of his buddies coming up the hill. He was waaayyy ahead of them.
They pulled up and got off their bikes, and I asked if one of them could give me a leather coat, of which they all had very flashy ones, to treat for shock. Nobody would give me their coat because they didn't want to get blood on it. The waitresses gave me their aprons and someone gave me a blanket from their baby. Fire rescue arrived , and I left him in their care.
I looked the bike over, it was nearly new with about 350 miles IIRC. Square on front impact. You can't see the damage in the pix avatar. His buddies said he just bought it, LOL. Not sure of the size, but someone may know from the spiderweb graphics on the front. Took a few pix of the bike and the pole.
Stopped by the house again months later, his friends said he no longer rides bikes, and is in a wheelchair.
I am a pretty careful rider, and I always wear my orange vest.
tom
Post by: bizzaro on April 26, 2016, 02:01:38 PM
As soon as I could, I was back on the bike riding, with my crutches strapped to the back. Some people (me) just ain't too bright I guess. :yes The bike fared much better than I. I think it was $35 for a clutch lever, and shifting lever. The Hospital bill was over 100K. That was in 1980.
I don't think this is the correct place for this on the forum but it seemed appropriate to your avatar response, and no. I don't have any photos! :hehehe I was a bit busy to take any pix!
See Ya in the Twisties,
Bizz
Post by: johnny on April 26, 2016, 03:45:56 PM
not gonna look for links on my phone... butts if i had my laptop i would search it...
many references on moa forum and other tech sites like antons...
it was 1990 or 1991... different steel and different process....
yeeeehaaaaa... (http://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-verizon&source=android-home&site=webhp&source=hp&ei=SMQfV5-GHcyXmQG5qrvQCQ&q=bmw+hard+drive+shaft&oq=bmw+hard+drive+shaft&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.12...4197.21750.0.23143.31.26.5.9.9.0.560.5962.0j12j10j2j1j1.26.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.28.3950.3.GFYDjYRvRM8#q=bmw+k+hard+splines)
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 27, 2016, 05:58:10 PM
Post by: bizzaro on April 27, 2016, 08:04:12 PM
Post by: TimTyler on April 30, 2016, 02:33:39 PM
Since installing the ebay pads I feel pulsing when the brakes are hot. Might be the used front rotors I installed over the winter, but it might not be.
Post by: johnny on April 30, 2016, 03:47:32 PM
those are professional superbike motogp pads... not amateur rt ratbike pads...
anyway... i filled it up with no corn ethyl and 3 bottles of techron...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160430_161246_zpsobquacsd.jpg)
and guard dog moly for engine fuels...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160430_161625_zpsrnmwsan1.jpg)
and some guard dog moly for gear boxes and final drives...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160430_162113_zpswyeflodp.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160430_162251_zpst0trjn9s.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160430_162321_zps3rmwx0a3.jpg)
busted this out in a couple hours... (http://www.greenalp.com/realtimetracker/index.php)
j o
Post by: TimTyler on April 30, 2016, 08:17:57 PM
those are professional superbike motogp pads... not amateur rt ratbike pads...
My bike IS a superbike, goddammitt.
Post by: bizzaro on April 30, 2016, 09:50:02 PM
Hey Tim, Is that you peg dragging in you avatar fully loaded? Great shot.
Post by: jensk on May 01, 2016, 01:47:51 AM
Bought an used on/off switch and installed it in the top row of the RT fairing so i can turn the driving lights of at night if they blind oncomming trafic
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160501/30cd0af263e38dd271c8ca717c3d4d27.jpg)
Post by: TimTyler on May 01, 2016, 04:18:52 AM
Hey Tim, Is that you peg dragging in you avatar fully loaded? Great shot.
It's my toe.
Post by: jensk on May 01, 2016, 04:00:40 PM
Got a used one from motorworks in UK.
Took the bike out for a ride up to my friend Flemming to see his new calfs - a 250 km roundtrip
On the way home i met a guy on a bike i have never seen before. It was a Calthorpe from 1939 - 500 ccm english ohv twin with belt drive
Post by: NEEDtoRIDE on May 06, 2016, 08:33:55 AM
mike
Post by: billday on May 07, 2016, 06:19:22 PM
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 07:41:25 AM
every 11 hundert i have had... one of the fill plugs was whack... what i did was take rubber tape and put on the plug and then screwed it on in there until i had a air tight and suspension fluid tight fit... not one of them ever leaked again...
after the 2nd one i started taking off the entire spring retainer with a 30mm socket... the 1 hundert may not be the same size... butts taking the whole top off may be an alternative for you...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160508_062502_zpsmo837j1u.jpg)
j o
Post by: billday on May 08, 2016, 08:12:34 AM
I think the problem is there's a little bit of Helicoil protruding from the hole -- keeping the washer from seating 100%. Will try grinding it off with the dremel. It's just a hassle to have to drain the fork again.
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 08:16:40 AM
j o
Post by: jllphan on May 08, 2016, 08:55:59 AM
Thanks JO but my problem is on the other end -- the drain -- the one that's famous for getting stripped.
I think the problem is there's a little bit of Helicoil protruding from the hole -- keeping the washer from seating 100%. Will try grinding it off with the dremel. It's just a hassle to have to drain the fork again.
Had the virtually the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago, the previous owner had stripped both of the drain plugs and managed to get them in just tight enough not to leak. As soon as i decided to do a fork oil change, when i unscrewed the drain plugs some of the threaded screw hole came out with it -- not good. Went to fastenall to scoop up some M6x6 hex head bolts, rubber gaskets and washers. The new thread pattern seemed to grip well (with the help of one round of nylon tape around the bolt thread) and the rubber gasket compressed w/ two washers seems to be doing the trick. All things people tell you not to do, the lazy way, yada yada yada.
(http://i.imgur.com/nErzKbB.jpg) (http://imgur.com/nErzKbB)
I'm sure most would recommend against this, and a drill/tap is likely in my future, but I've gone a few weeks of steady driving w/ no leakage as of yet --- and the street out of my driveway is a true torture test for my suspension and fork drain bolts. Once the weather is hot as balls down here I'll do it right, just don't want to be sidelined during this amazing weather we're having right now.
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 09:28:10 AM
id getts my affairs in order... 300ml of suspension fluid aints much... butts all at once max lean off camber decreasing radius apex wacking throttle... sliding is riding... yeeeehaaaaaa...
j o
Post by: F14CRAZY on May 08, 2016, 10:06:08 AM
Post by: jllphan on May 08, 2016, 10:20:19 AM
greetings...
id getts my affairs in order... 300ml of suspension fluid aints much... butts all at once max lean off camber decreasing radius apex wacking throttle... sliding is riding... yeeeehaaaaaa...
j o
help me out Johnny: if the oem spec on a bolt w/ a very small thread count calls for an extremely low torque setting, than what's the massive alarm w/ using a longer bolt w/ fresh threads and a seal? If anything, I've improved upon a poor design. If I wasn't able to get a good bite on the fork drain hole, sure, but it's in there tighter than the oem bolts ever were.
Not trying to sound combative, just looking for knowledge in an area I could use it. I've put at least 600miles of hard riding on this set up w/ not a drop out of either side.
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 10:51:45 AM
$149 living will power of attorney last will and testament... (https://www.legalzoom.com/personal/estate-planning/estate-planning-bundle.html)
j o
Post by: jllphan on May 08, 2016, 11:12:31 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2016, 11:15:22 AM
If anything, I've improved upon a poor design.It's not clear to me that the design is poor, but it's definitely not foolproof. Using heat, penetrant, and patience while attempting to remove the bolts, using anti-seize when installing them, and torquing them to their specified low values instead of reefing on them are all strategies that might prevent these inconveniences.
Post by: jllphan on May 08, 2016, 11:48:53 AM
If anything, I've improved upon a poor design.It's not clear to me that the design is poor, but it's definitely not foolproof. Using heat, penetrant, and patience while attempting to remove the bolts, using anti-seize when installing them, and torquing them to their specified low values instead of reefing on them are all strategies that might prevent these inconveniences.
Your absolutely right Laitch, I misspoke. The PO is the culprit, partially stripping the bolt holes. I was just speaking to my use of longer bolts and a seal to better prevent leakage, but to be fair, only time will tell.
Post by: jllphan on May 08, 2016, 11:51:07 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2016, 11:56:23 AM
to be fair, only time will tell.I agree, and it's useful that these alternative methods get trial, safely.
To belabor this moot point further because it's raining here and I've misplaced my dictionary for my daily meditation— :beatdeadhorse: —will the compression of a rubber seal by a bolt tightened "more than the oem bolts ever were" exert an outward force on the bolt that eventually damages all the threads of an admittedly low thread-count hole and thus allow the bolt to be ejected by fluid compression?
The trial is now underway.
Post by: TimTyler on May 08, 2016, 12:51:43 PM
if the oem spec on a bolt w/ a very small thread count calls for an extremely low torque setting, than what's the massive alarm w/ using a longer bolt w/ fresh threads and a seal?
One of my fork drain holes was stripped too when I got the bike. I found that their are more threads in the drain hole than the super-short OEM M6x6 bolt uses so often you can just use a longer bolt.
There's not much worry if the bolt goes too far, even protruding out into the inside of the fork, since there is room there and no movable parts (at least on the Sport fork).
I switched to longer bolts and use Loctite and the tiny OEM aluminum sealing washers and its been fine. I try to drain the fork oil through the M8 hole in the axle area when possible too.
Post by: tsnap on May 08, 2016, 03:51:36 PM
On the way home I saw an old R90 stalled on I35 out near Olathe KS/Lenexa KS. about 815pm, I was in a lane thaT i COULD NOT HELP HIM, SO i HONKED, AND HE WAVED AT MY NEW bmw k1100rs bLACK in the trailer.
So I tear into the problem, previous owner had used wrong battery and rubbed hole in ABS line and battery. His wife said he was not spending any more money on the bike, so up for sale it went.. Manufactured 8-93. Title 1994, 48k miles.
This line is about 14 inches long, and runs from the ABS unit to the coupling on the rear shaft and mates to the black rubber line that runs to the rear caliper. My brothers say they use a product like this on their old Porsches called "Metric Bubble Thread Tubing" available at auto parts stores.
The battery tested completely flat. My other brother says, "put it on the charger".
Tested today, still O volts. So I start my Ford Explorer, and hook it to the jumper cables for about 30 minutes, checking about every 10 minutes, and the voltage slowly climbs, eventually to about 12 volts.
I put it in the bike, gave a shot of starter thru the fairing air inlet, and she starts right up. Yes, fuel pump in nearly empty tank is noisy, added new fuel and it is quieter now.
Bike had been sitting for about a year. Restarted several times, seems to work fine, fan came on after about 10 minutes running in trailer. Lots of smoke initially fron side stand use, cleared after a few minutes. :foto:Will check again tomorrow, as I am going for a ride with just front brakes.
The seat is a corbin, no backrest included. That seat feels very hard. May rub it with neatsfoot compound, works on old holsters and boots.
The tires appear to be new Michelin Radials, could not see any other tire designation/name/number while it sits in the trailer.
If rain had not moved in, I would be out on it all afternoon today.
Overall, a double yeehaww day for me.
tom :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :usa2: :usa2: :usa2: :yippee: :yippee: :yippee: :beer: :beer: :beer: :useless
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 05:57:51 PM
the herseyb 90 k75c getts new cannaboil suspension fluid...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160508_104208_zpsc6fjv53b.jpg)
and a full on valve job and tune up after lubing the sparkplugs with cannabutter...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160508_130430_zpsuyq3ip9p.jpg)
Post by: bizzaro on May 08, 2016, 06:32:06 PM
Thanks j o! worked that time. :clap: Hey is the guy work n on the bike just before this related to you?? I have my suspicions :mbird
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 06:44:42 PM
try those attachments again... had high security turned on because tim tiorler was trying to upload photos of seafoam and techron and valve shims... i think you are in the clear now...
j o
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 07:59:12 PM
"urrr... ah... how do you delete posts..."
not possible... all posts are permanent...
you sure you aint canadican...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on May 08, 2016, 08:05:47 PM
Using a few feet of white solid wire as a dipstick I checked the fork oil level. Both forks matched exactly. Not really a surprise since I flushed the forks a few months ago. Discovered that the fork oil level is about 2.5 inches below the fork seal in the Sport inner tube.
Post by: johnny on May 08, 2016, 08:12:40 PM
supposed to avoid potholes...
butts if you see any opium dens please let me know...
you sure you aint canadican...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on May 08, 2016, 08:30:38 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2016, 08:41:57 PM
I synced my throttle bodies with my home grown bottle throttle synchronization tool.:dunno2:Looks like a citrus kombucha dispenser at the Montpelier Farmers Market; maybe could do double duty as one.
Post by: bizzaro on May 08, 2016, 08:48:56 PM
"Is that your son work n on the bike or what?
Trying to figure out why my front end bottoms out on potholes.
Tim,
Try carrying just half a cord o wood for your campfires on the bike! :hehehe When I recently changed out my fork oil, the cap washer under the right spring retainer nut on top of the fork was actually bent from bottoming out hard on the road. Vt roads are some of the worst maintained in the nation. :musicboohoo: Oh, and that may be your toe in your avatar , and your not peg draggin, it is still a pretty rad lean angle for a loaded bike IMHO! :yes
Laitch,
Yes, it is the cherry/turmeric Kombucha. Tastes even better with a good dose of exhaust flavor smoked in there. Finished up the last one tonight. I will be sure and save you one next time.
See ya in the twisties,
Bizz
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2016, 08:52:07 PM
Yes, it is the cherry/turmeric Kombucha.I'm glad there's a better use for it than drinking it.
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2016, 09:34:39 PM
Trying to figure out why my front end bottoms out on potholes. Maybe they all do that.My bike has Showas. The fork bottomed out less when I replaced the rear shock. Cleaning the fork tubes and refilling with 7.5 weight tightened the response and ended the bottoming out completely. The tubes have progressive springs and my weight is about 190 lbs. Potholes are a way of life up here.
Post by: riots100 on May 09, 2016, 01:05:50 AM
Post by: TimTyler on May 09, 2016, 01:07:57 AM
Some prime motorcycle riding country is literally 20 minutes from my front door.
Cool.
Wrong thread. Should have posted it here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,835.0.html
Post by: herseyb on May 09, 2016, 03:04:43 PM
He must have noticed cause I have 16 red eyed rodents up top....
Johnny - I think the forks must have been overfull before 'cause it was a LOT smoother going over bumps on the way home. Really appreciate the help!
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160512_165151_zpsmeytc0qc.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160512_180214_zps2mqhzqfv.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160512_180613_zpss9expfnc.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160512_180656_zpste0wtcsh.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/Mobile%20Uploads/20160512_181011_zps8zkm7hjc.jpg)
Post by: Chaos on May 09, 2016, 03:13:36 PM
He must have noticed cause I have 16 red eyed rodents up top....
I got two of the vermin and I didn't do nothin!
Post by: jllphan on May 09, 2016, 03:19:12 PM
I agree, and it's useful that these alternative methods get trial, safely.
To belabor this moot point further because it's raining here and I've misplaced my dictionary for my daily meditation— :beatdeadhorse: —will the compression of a rubber seal by a bolt tightened "more than the oem bolts ever were" exert an outward force on the bolt that eventually damages all the threads of an admittedly low thread-count hole and thus allow the bolt to be ejected by fluid compression?
The trial is now underway.
Ha, indeed. Unfortunately, I'd need a pile of bricks and a million miles of road testing to determine a "better than oem" solution. So long as it holds up for me until I tear the front end apart and refresh everything -- I'll consider it a success. Wish me luck, according to Johnny, I'll need it.
Post by: Laitch on May 09, 2016, 03:27:51 PM
So long as it holds up for me until I tear the front end apart and refresh everything -- I'll consider it a success. Wish me luck, according to Johnny, I'll need it.Good luck, then; thanks for your commitment to science.
Post by: TimTyler on May 12, 2016, 07:29:21 PM
I noticed in some photos that the front edge of the tragkorb was the closest part of the bike to the road when leaning.
Now it's easier to see my fugly muffler. :mbird
Post by: TrueAce on May 12, 2016, 07:58:38 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on May 14, 2016, 06:46:35 AM
To quote one of my 12yo son's favourite recent South Park sayings... "long story short"
The bike finally started, idled, restarted and restarted and restarted. WTF!
I can't take any credit for the result ... except perhaps I was just poking around and around and around.
Was following Burt's flow chart and ticking off confirmed items.
Thought I'd found it with a good fuse (fuel pump 7.5V) but no power behind it. This is still the case (with ignition on or off). Even told my long suffering wife. Can anyone explain?
Was confused with the position of the fuel injection relay (front RHS) and just went around with the multimeter measuring and recording. On the flow chart it asks "power from ignition to pin 86 of relay" ... well battery measured 12.30V, pin 86 read: 12.22V and pin 85 12.22V. Is pin 85 important? Why no question about this pin in the flow chart?
Centre front relay is horn of course. Too loud in a single car garage.
Power saver relay (front LHS) was reading: pin 85: 12.28V, pin 86: 11.86V. Others zero or very small voltage...eg 0.23V.
Wasn't sure how to check the ground from pin 7 of ECU to pin 85 of FI relay. I only got readings of incomplete circuit using multimeter. No joy here. Can someone elaborate?
Starter used to only last approx 3-5 secs before cutting out. Now the bike starts up almost immediately. I did pull the starter motor and clean the innards. Q: Should the starter stay on as long as the button is pressed?
Had gone over the relays and fuses with de-oxit. But that had given no joy.
Fuel pump was not on constantly when key turned ... bad connection... something up stream had to be the problem.
Disconnected the fuel hose (to injectors) and confirmed supply and then pulled the injectors and confirmed "squirting" (pointless given that they were serviced... but I couldn't leave this uncertain).
I was scratching my head and getting the shits with it... but couldn't bring myself to take it into the shop. I was so far down the path to despair that I had retrieved my mobile to phone a very mechanical friend of a friend. Bit more poking around and ...
...ignition!
Perhaps it was a bad connection under the tank and de-oxiting and pulling relays (and fuses) in and out repeatedly made the difference.
Apart from the Hall effect sensor, I had generally exhausted all else. Still, the bike's not registered for the road. Last time, I had phoned them to say I would be 5 minutes, got dressed and closed the garage before it cut out in the driveway and then this vortex of hell.
Got a result and got to be happy.
But somedays, can't help but scratch the head and wonder what the hell it was.
It will be 7 years... all going well.
Now there's a K1100LT under a tarp calling me like the sirens of ancient Greek legend ... and an unfinished vespa.
Will post a few other bits which might be useful elsewhere
Guy
PS. one upside to all this global warming is more days to ride motorbikes!
Post by: tsnap on May 14, 2016, 07:29:50 AM
My starter keeps going as long as I hold the button in. At least it did on initial start up. Now it just requires a few seconds to start. :clap:
tom
Post by: jay1622 on May 15, 2016, 12:42:52 PM
Post by: jay1622 on May 15, 2016, 12:50:25 PM
Post by: WayneDW on May 15, 2016, 06:16:35 PM
Post by: jay1622 on May 15, 2016, 10:18:21 PM
Wow, you've been busy. Looks great!
Thanks! Can't wait to do the first test crank. Next is rebuilding the forks and painting the slider tubes.
Post by: koapono on May 19, 2016, 05:51:01 AM
upgraded cruise control switch, finally found a left-hand switch cluster that had windshield control switch. wired my cruise control to windshield switch (as many others have done), this makes for a nice, clean factory look. This was 3rd switch evolution.
first picture shows stock switch that came with ccs 100 "universal" cruise control this worked fine for about 6 months until I got caught in a torrential downpour in Colorado.Despite being filled with silicon sealer switch got soaked and never worked again.
second picture shows a simple, rocker-type window control switch obtained from local re-cycle auto junk-yard. This worked great but lacked the "factory look".
third picture shows new switch cluster mounted.
this also cleared up space on the handlebar and I mounted a tomtom "rider" GPS. The GPS was a gift, is new to me and as yet untested. It does have a "winding roads" feature which I look forward to trying. It does seem rather large but as mounted it neither limits handlebar movement nor obstructs/distracts vision.
I plan a ride to Voyageurs Nat'l Park in northern Minnesota next month, I will get to test the GPS unit then.
Post by: billday on May 19, 2016, 08:08:46 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on May 22, 2016, 05:16:45 PM
I'm beginning to figure this bike out. The more I ride it, the more it reminds me of my old Trident. Hold every gear out to at least 6000rpm and it shifts much better. Only difference is that the Beemer is happy doing 30mph in fourth gear.
Post by: Martin on May 22, 2016, 05:41:32 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: billday on May 22, 2016, 08:26:31 PM
Fork oil change. Did the right hand fork first, first thing I noticed was the fork oil really didn't really need changing. OK. Left hand fork, some DPO's bad thread repair came out with the plug. Off to Autozone, got their version of Helicoil, the included tool basically crumbled on me but I thought I had the coil in OK. Got everything buttoned up, pump the forks, red stuff oozing out of fork number 2. Grrr.
Just to close the loop on this mini-drama: Today I drained the fork, redid the repair with a new helicoil and a bit more patience and care, and . . . voila, I'm back on the road.
Probably next time I'll take JO's advice and tap it for a bigger screw.
Post by: Laitch on May 22, 2016, 08:28:17 PM
. . . voila, I'm back on the road.:2thumbup:
Probably next time I'll take JO's advice and tap it for a bigger screw.
Post by: bizzaro on May 22, 2016, 09:31:53 PM
2 New pigtail for motronic ground.
3 Battery cover upgrade.
4 Changed transmission oil.
5 Changed final drive oil.
6 Changed engine oil and filter.
I know most of us can't actually read so:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 22, 2016, 10:04:07 PM
Post by: mystic red on May 22, 2016, 10:13:30 PM
Pittchers!!! I like pittchers, all of them except for the one with the fuzzy drain plug. That one looks scary...
Yep, that's not a little powder.
Post by: johnny on May 22, 2016, 10:15:29 PM
j o
Post by: bizzaro on May 23, 2016, 08:56:42 AM
Yea, the tranny drain plug spooked me also. But I ain't get n into the tranny this Summer less I have to. Shit, with the Mobil 1 75/140 and Molly in there it shifts like a Honda! :mbird And there was't a bunch of shrapnel in the old oil. Seemed to be what was on the plug was it. Anyone consider the likely culprit(besides terrible shifting skills!
I will change out the spark plugs today, and be done with maintenance for a moment!
Johnny, will be ordering tiors soon! These Bridgestone T 30's are pretty close to done. Not only did I not like the tior, I only got about 4K out of them!
Anybody guess as to why my ABS II wouldn't bleed out properly? The caliper bled fine?
And a shout out to Scott here for his primer on my caliper rebuild. I did not split the caliper to clean and replace the seals. It came with the parts to split the caliper, so I surely would have if not for Scott's advice against it. I am sure it saved me a bunch of time and headache!
See Ya in the Twisties,
Bizz
Post by: jay1622 on May 24, 2016, 12:02:39 PM
Post by: bizzaro on May 28, 2016, 09:44:37 PM
Sweet. Nice job. Really envy those shinny new manifold nuts. Mine were all crappy and rounded, but I did only have one stud come out with the nut when I took my muffler off. How much were the seals for the manifold/ pipes?
Hey give me your address and I will bring my bike over at the end of the season. I wouldn't want you to get bored this Winter! :riding: I can [pick it up in the Spring? :clap:
Bizz
Post by: jay1622 on May 29, 2016, 09:59:29 PM
Jay 1622,
Sweet. Nice job. Really envy those shinny new manifold nuts. Mine were all crappy and rounded, but I did only have one stud come out with the nut when I took my muffler off. How much were the seals for the manifold/ pipes?
Hey give me your address and I will bring my bike over at the end of the season. I wouldn't want you to get bored this Winter! :riding: I can [pick it up in the Spring? :clap:
Bizz
Hey brother, thanks for the props! Still enjoying every bit of this as I get closer and closer to completion. My son continues to help me and is enjoying the project still. Tonight we completely stripped down and repainted the pork slider tubes. They will get baked tomorrow.
Post by: jay1622 on May 29, 2016, 10:02:29 PM
Post by: johnny on May 30, 2016, 06:26:33 PM
after recovering from psychedelics ingested in indy... whew... have not had that much fun since the last time...
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/yawl_zpsbvfihy9v.jpg)
anyway back on track... my gripps had been slipping for a couple years now... was getting good dragging trankorb with slipping gripps... butts decided i bests get er done...
so i prepared to replace the heating elements... butts they were still good... cleaned the heating elements with rubbing alcohol... i used the rubbing method... and slathered them with pro honda grip cement... its the first time for cement for me... butts my aquanet isnt lasting like it used too... caints getts any midcentury quality hairspray anymore...
so it was pro honda cement... slide the 699 progrips on... slide the grip buddys on... put the manic salamanders back on... should be good to go to balltown for a tenderloin... yeeeehaaaaaa...
j o
Post by: obsessed on May 31, 2016, 12:01:05 PM
Post by: K75RT Keith on May 31, 2016, 04:34:51 PM
Post by: jay1622 on May 31, 2016, 11:11:08 PM
Post by: enb54 on June 02, 2016, 02:16:25 PM
Put about six hours in the garage with my boy today stripping down, cleaning out and repainting the forks. Tomorrow, the slider tubes and the fork bridge will all get baked. Looking to have this thing rolling again by Tuesday. Not under its own power of course, but rolling.
Jay... What brand of primer/finish coats and what method did you use for baking? I'm contemplating refinishing my K75 when riding season ends this year...
Post by: jay1622 on June 02, 2016, 06:52:01 PM
Jay... What brand of primer/finish coats and what method did you use for baking? I'm contemplating refinishing my K75 when riding season ends this year...
I am not totally sold on chip or cracking resistance yet; haven't found a reason to test it, but what little bit of work I have done with them, I think I would opt for powder coating and/or electrostatic paint of some sort for future builds. Otherwise, this is what I used.
Post by: TimTyler on June 02, 2016, 06:58:28 PM
I used it on my radiator shroud. It takes FOREVER to dry. Allow 24 hours to touch. When it's dry it feels like a solid coating.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-tractor-truck-implement-spray-enamel-11-oz-gloss-black?cm_vc=IOPDP1
Post by: enb54 on June 04, 2016, 06:17:34 PM
Post by: enb54 on June 04, 2016, 07:46:57 PM
greetings...
after recovering from psychedelics ingested in indy... whew... have not had that much fun since the last time...(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/owrstrich/yawl_zpsbvfihy9v.jpg)
It took a while, but I finally realized what that "psychedelic" drug picture was about, I prefer "Double Diesels" (double white rum and coke... no ice)
Post by: beemrdon on June 04, 2016, 08:57:08 PM
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 05, 2016, 06:25:44 PM
Post by: Martin on June 05, 2016, 06:52:23 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 05, 2016, 07:06:07 PM
After painting my belly pan I coated it with Rustoleum spray can bed liner to stop chipping also made a longer mudflap.
Regards Martin.
Good ideas Martin.
Post by: Martin on June 05, 2016, 07:28:04 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: jay1622 on June 06, 2016, 10:13:09 PM
https://youtu.be/OLzxwIk7GiI
Post by: TrueAce on June 06, 2016, 10:27:01 PM
Post by: jay1622 on June 07, 2016, 10:26:10 AM
Post by: jay1622 on June 07, 2016, 12:08:00 PM
Post by: herseyb on June 07, 2016, 04:08:12 PM
Metzeler lasertec. The bike is way more fun with round tires than square!
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 07, 2016, 07:57:56 PM
Post by: Martin on June 08, 2016, 03:20:59 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 08, 2016, 03:27:13 PM
Motorhead any chance you could post more detailed pictures of how the crash bars mount with the belly pan in place. I have been trying to work out how to do it on mine.
Regards Martin.
Check your mail box or this link:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8436.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8436.0.html)
Post by: bizzaro on June 09, 2016, 08:17:41 PM
I really wanted the P R 4's, but I could find nothing even close that would match my front rim.
Post by: Chaos on June 09, 2016, 11:27:46 PM
Post by: Laitch on June 10, 2016, 06:14:17 AM
I can now turn right with impunity!Right on! :2thumbup:
Post by: Martin on June 10, 2016, 05:07:57 PM
Post by: TrueAce on June 10, 2016, 07:29:31 PM
Post by: Chaos on June 10, 2016, 09:59:46 PM
Chaos you can always do lefts, three lefts make a right. :hehehe
thanx, but lefts are a such hassle up here, everyone driving on the right ya know. If it messes up again I'll move down there. Actually, looking at our upcoming elections, moving there looks pretty good even if the blinker keeps working.
Post by: Martin on June 10, 2016, 10:31:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 11, 2016, 12:27:04 AM
Might not be perfect, but it looks a whole lot better than all scratched up.
Post by: TimTyler on June 11, 2016, 08:35:48 PM
Fellow MotoBrick MotoMadness 2016'ers can look forward to my sweet smelling aero-cooled butt in Utah and Coloradah later this month. :ba:
Post by: johnny on June 11, 2016, 09:42:01 PM
so that absorbs butt smells so you can share those smells with others...
j o
gotts me some new micheliens pr5s...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 11, 2016, 11:34:05 PM
Post by: rbm on June 12, 2016, 09:22:38 AM
Post by: Laitch on June 12, 2016, 09:29:40 AM
Meanwhile, have to use the M-G to get to work.:musicboohoo:
Post by: johnny on June 12, 2016, 11:58:05 AM
(http://borderreivers.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/35/2012/11/A14.jpg)
j o
Post by: Martin on June 12, 2016, 01:51:45 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: johnny on June 12, 2016, 02:06:11 PM
i use these... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6509.msg44045.html#msg44045)
or
i use these... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6510.msg44046.html#msg44046)
many miles... many wheels... no problems...
dont know if those can be found in canadaica or australica though...
j o
Post by: Martin on June 12, 2016, 02:15:55 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: rbm on June 12, 2016, 05:08:53 PM
i betts its mgbgt in canadaican racing red lacquer...Sorry JO. It's one of these, not one of those:
(http://borderreivers.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/35/2012/11/A14.jpg)
j o
(http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201403/moto-guzzi-v7-racer-14_600x0w.jpg)
M-G = Moto Guzzi
MG = Morris Garages
Oh, and yeah, I'm going for one of those shortie straight ones that you referenced in your next post. I've had it with right angle tire valve stems.
Post by: mejetski2000 on June 12, 2016, 06:26:20 PM
Post by: K1300S on June 12, 2016, 09:22:58 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160612_205322.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160612_205322.jpg.html)
It is so cute compared to my big car trailers. Cheaper too!
Post by: Bill on June 14, 2016, 09:51:37 PM
Post by: kmev on June 14, 2016, 10:54:37 PM
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/knm1225/DSC08419.jpg)
Post by: tsnap on June 15, 2016, 11:01:54 AM
tom
Post by: bocutter Ed on June 15, 2016, 12:00:28 PM
I think I can get one more in there...Maybe 3 more ... :yes
Post by: Martin on June 15, 2016, 04:54:10 PM
C.heers Martin.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 16, 2016, 09:54:40 AM
Post by: bizzaro on June 18, 2016, 09:51:17 PM
Changed the coolant to a Summer mix with Water Wetter. I douched out the cooling system by driving it with the thermostat out and distilled water. It ran much, much cooler with just distilled water and no thermostat in it?
Johnny blanket on the cheap. I used a windshield reflector that was on sale for a under $4!(half of it, so ya get two to go)
Post by: bizzaro on June 18, 2016, 10:02:42 PM
Sorry JO. It's one of these, not one of those:
(http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201403/moto-guzzi-v7-racer-14_600x0w.jpg)
M-G = Moto Guzzi
MG = Morris Garages
I think I am drooling......................Sweet ride RPM! ( no images with a quote?)
Post by: Laitch on June 18, 2016, 10:40:59 PM
. . . I am concerned the Hall sensor being so far advanced means something else is up. Should I turn it back some?What may be up is detonation (pinging) followed by engine damage. If it were my bike I'd set it to spec. By "much, much cooler" do you mean that you felt less heat from the engine or was the temperature lower on a gauge?
It ran much, much cooler with just distilled water and no thermostat in it?
I hope you either used all of that pink fluid in the coolant change or that you tore off the Poland Springs label, wrote POISON and DANGER on the bottle along with a drawing of a skull and crossbones and put it on a high shelf. Poisoning by drinking from mismarked containers is a common occurrence—believe it or not.
Post by: bizzaro on June 19, 2016, 07:33:32 AM
The temperature gauge read much cooler with no thermostat and only distilled water in it.
I have a ton of carbon at my tail pipe etc. Incomplete burn right? which can be caused by several things?
Post by: Laitch on June 19, 2016, 10:00:22 AM
I drank what was left before I gave it to um. I have a ton of carbon at my tail pipe etc. Incomplete burn right? which can be caused by several things?So that's what gives you the inspiration to do these experiments.
If the spark plug electrode insulators are in a shade of ecru, bleached adobe, or pale burnt sienna, maybe the pipe can just swabbed with Mr. Clean for a clean and complementary look.
Wind 'er up, bizzaro!
Post by: enb54 on June 19, 2016, 10:49:09 AM
Post by: Laitch on June 19, 2016, 10:56:42 AM
Ordered a new Parabellum windshield because I was too dumb to stop and figure out why my steering felt so heavy (front tire only 15 lbs of air) so went around the block to come in the back gate for a check. Unfortunately, staggered rock paving stones and low front tire pressure don't mix, so bike toppled, broke wife's shrubbery apart, and put a windshield out of commission. Oh well, live and learn (again)...That's what I call good luck, enb! You could have gone down at speed tripped up by a flock of ducklings. Instead of stitches, all you need is pruning shears and good credit.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on June 26, 2016, 08:23:43 PM
Post by: technostructural on June 27, 2016, 08:35:18 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104635481/K75-photos/IMG_20160627_210754.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104635481/K75-photos/IMG_20160627_210827.jpg)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 30, 2016, 01:50:53 AM
I did notice that the breather tube is a combination of a 90 and the correct tube to the airbox. The 90 has some serious cracks. Put some silicone in the cracks until I can get a new breather tube or just mount a tube with filter and plug the airbox.
It has a habit of dying when I close the throttle. I guess this is the cause?
Post by: Laitch on June 30, 2016, 02:07:18 AM
It has a habit of dying when I close the throttle. I guess this is the cause?It's not helping any, that's for sure. After you replace that part—which is not a Herculean task, except if your name is Hercules—it also might be time to clean the air filter, replace the fuel filter and balance the throttle bodies. You haven't done that yet, have you?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 30, 2016, 03:47:32 AM
Time to make some adapters for the vacuum gauges I use on my carburetted bikes.
Post by: moto949 on July 03, 2016, 09:07:22 PM
Post by: The Dude on July 04, 2016, 03:13:16 AM
Did the risers make for a neat job?The plastic handle bar cover,is that used?
C.heers.
Oh yea,don't be tempted to "lug"the motor,with your quest for low cruising revs.Pre ignition can wreck the top of the plated bores,for what it's worth.They like revs and can take it...not like a hogley Dogley.
Mine feels somewhat revey at the standard 3.2:1 FD.But we've not got many "straight"roads :curvy-road and its a small country,so Ive lived with it,but when I've shagged out the unit I will swap it out for the RS one also.Might get 220km/h on the rev limiter....er,Yeeeehaaa?
Post by: K1300S on July 04, 2016, 03:31:46 AM
Installed 1 inch bar risers on my K75S. These are the straight up, simple, U-shape extenders, not the risers that stagger-step towards the rider as well. So, figuring in the 27 or so degrees of fork angle, mine raise the bars vertically just under an inch, and towards me just under a 1/4 inch or so. There's zero clearance or cable issues. Comfort wise, it's a nice improvement, especially as I took the opportunity to re-angle the bars a bit for a better feel (the PO had them angled down a tad low for me). Together with last week's seat gel pad (from Butt Buffer - Web Bike World review was spot on) on top of my aging Corbin, this bike is ready for some long distance weekends, especially with the 2.81 final gear I swapped in - I cannot believe a lightweight sport tourer came with such short gearing that it spins needlessly over 5000 rpm on American open highways - I'd feel sorry for it on the Autobahn!
Funny. My S came with those risers and with the bars turned up a bit. Uncomfortable. Ditched the risers and turned bars down to Master Yoda position. Life is now good happily spinning 5300rpm on the highway!
Post by: kryder on July 04, 2016, 09:16:02 AM
Funny. My S came with those risers and with the bars turned up a bit. Uncomfortable. Ditched the risers and turned bars down to Master Yoda position. Life is now good happily spinning 5300rpm on the highway!
To each their own. I like the riding position of the K75S and have owned two K75S motos. On the other hand I have a 2000 R1100S I am about to add bar backs to and will then lower the footpegs in an effort to make it a better long distance machine. On my K75 I am comfortable enough to travel across state lines, on my R1100S? Well, it needs some modifications.
Post by: moto949 on July 04, 2016, 10:34:00 AM
True, when the bars are turned up wrong (like how I myself first had them set at a guessed-at angle for my first test ride after the riser install), they were feeling far away and cockeyed in relation to the seat/pegs. Not great. Then I angled them down a bit, test rode it, and was very surprised at the improvement - amazing how different they felt, falling naturally to hand. I went through the trouble of angling them down once more, barely a degree or three, and now I'm real happy I bothered to do it (remember, you'll need to loosen the underside allens and properly re-adjust the lever/mirror/signal assembly each time). *I should add I'm 6'2", which may be why it works fantastic for me.
Another factor are my suspension settings of a Progressive base model (4015) shock set on the highest preload for my 225 lbs to help steering, as well as the front tubes raised 4mm (to drop the front the same amount) which in combination nicely quickens the steering without reducing stability... so far. Those suspension changes will of course angle a rider down and forward slightly compared to stock.
Hi Dude, like your style (sick of hearing that yet?)
What happens when you install the risers is the front/top cover (with the ignition and switches) goes up as well, so the underside brackets riveted to the rubber above, and screwed to the casting below, no longer reach. All I did, for now anyway, was zip-tie each side through the now-empty braket hole through handy slots in the lower casting. It's holding it more than snug enough for my needs. The other cover, on the backside, can still be installed as before, and tucks under just enough not to notice.
Re the gearing, yeah, I know the engine can take it, but my friend, why dish it out? My VFR 750 could also take it, but it would be like riding the Interstate on that bike in 4th gear. Why would we do that? No matter what I've read on all these forums, all a K75 is doing at those higher rpm's is burning more gas (I've seen in my multi-tank-by-tank test, an improvement of nearly ten percent better mileage, and not just going by the odometer, but actual city to city distances). Oh and you're also just breaking down your K75's oil's viscosity faster for nothing. I'm telling you with all honestly, this bike finally felt like grown up bike after the change, no longer so busy and straining. And remember, it's still right at its torque peak at highway rpm, perfect for passing. It's not lugging at all and it feels great.
And it's not just on the highway where it's better - right after the change, which raises all gears proportionally, I was not thinking, "Hey, my bike is now sluggish." I was instead thinking, "Yikes, first gear (and second, and third...) was so short before, the way it got used up in a blink was silly for this type of bike." I mean, if one wants to imagine his K75 is a performance bike, then yeah, technically you will accelerate a smidge faster with the shorter stock gearing and maybe you can just keep ahead of your girlfriend's Vespa 300 GTS.
I believe that people have made negative comments regarding this gearing change have either never tried it, or have tried it on a K75 that may not be in its best state of tune. Our lovable, but old school K75s are weak enough already without riding them around without the throttles synched, the valves adjusted, the injectors cleaned etc. If you're hesitant about the 2.81 final drive, hedge with the 2.91 and enjoy!
Hi Kryder
I'm happy you like your K75 but I always believe there's room for improvement - some improvements are worth the effort, some are too expensive or time consuming to be worth it. I'm happy with the changes I've made, but I'm happier if you like your bike as is. By the way, enjoy your 1100!
Post by: Chaos on July 04, 2016, 11:48:19 AM
Did the risers make for a neat job?The plastic handle bar cover,is that used?
FWIW, I raised that plastic piece an inch or so with a couple bits of flat stock to get everything to look right with the risers
Post by: The Dude on July 04, 2016, 02:46:47 PM
FWIW, I raised that plastic piece an inch or so with a couple bits of flat stock to get everything to look right with the risersYeh,looks ok and the front one still blends in.
Thanks.
Post by: The Dude on July 04, 2016, 03:00:13 PM
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on July 08, 2016, 07:30:05 PM
Great! No more flashing lights. :musicboohoo:
Post by: Motorhobo on July 09, 2016, 06:49:42 PM
Post by: ICBMW on July 10, 2016, 10:28:32 AM
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: ICBMW on July 10, 2016, 10:38:36 AM
Added a 12x12 BeadRider Ultimate (http://amzn.to/1YisMui) to my sawed-off Corbin Dual Canyon saddle.Tell me more. Should I try some? I park outside. Will they endure?
Fellow MotoBrick MotoMadness 2016'ers can look forward to my sweet smelling aero-cooled butt in Utah and Coloradah later this month. :ba:
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: ICBMW on July 10, 2016, 10:41:48 AM
Ordered a new Parabellum windshield because I was too dumb to stop and figure out why my steering felt so heavy (front tire only 15 lbs of air) so went around the block to come in the back gate for a check. Unfortunately, staggered rock paving stones and low front tire pressure don't mix, so bike toppled, broke wife's shrubbery apart, and put a windshield out of commission. Oh well, live and learn (again)...Damn! I'm going out right now to check my air pressure. This is a theme. The universe speaking, as Oprah would say.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on July 11, 2016, 03:43:11 PM
Post by: koapono on July 11, 2016, 05:20:05 PM
My speedo was reading approx 6MPH high according to GPS. I've been meaning to do this for some time but removing and disassembling the instrument cluster is a giant PITA!
Got it dialed in now and works like a champ.
Post by: enb54 on July 11, 2016, 10:08:19 PM
Damn! I'm going out right now to check my air pressure. This is a theme. The universe speaking, as Oprah would say.Yah, I did the air pressure check today, just after I got my new windshield! Thanks Parabellum!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: The Dude on July 12, 2016, 02:02:13 AM
I went out to the far shed and had an emotional but cold fondle with My K75S and posed the question:Why do I still like this General Motors metalic Malachite Green?I chose it twenty years ago after the original Candy Apple red had become sun burst orange.
'Been wondering If I've matured enough to pull off a shark themed paint job on the "machine,yet?
Open mouth(radiator cowling)rows of white teeth along the side,Red tongue overflowing back.Dark eyeball on top of the tank badge,matt gray with fades into black body all chasing a front mud guardfish...I feel like a new commitment.Start the preparation process....Green or shark?Toin cossing stuff.
Post by: TrueAce on July 12, 2016, 12:05:58 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 12, 2016, 04:20:14 PM
'Been wondering If I've matured enough to pull off a shark themed paint job on the "machine,yet?Buy a K1200rs and you'll already have the look of an orca riding a bicycle.
Post by: Martin on July 12, 2016, 05:02:06 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Dude on July 13, 2016, 12:33:57 AM
Post by: Martin on July 13, 2016, 03:21:07 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chaos on July 13, 2016, 10:08:39 AM
'Been wondering If I've matured enough to pull off a shark themed paint job on the "machine,yet?
Works better on a Ural
Post by: bocutter Ed on July 16, 2016, 07:58:13 AM
... and did the first coat of spar varnish yesterday.
Post by: Martin on July 16, 2016, 03:00:40 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bocutter Ed on July 16, 2016, 06:27:05 PM
Geez Ed that is one mighty big top box. What do you carry in it bodies?.bwokx = wok in a b...x :lets-eat: There is an ice box under the wok.
Post by: The Dude on July 16, 2016, 07:37:41 PM
bwokx = wok in a b...x :lets-eat: There is an ice box under the wok.Nice!
Do you "pack any heat" with that?
Post by: Martin on July 16, 2016, 07:38:40 PM
Regards an enlightened and jealous Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 17, 2016, 12:15:47 AM
PO had a rubber 90 piece attached to the tube which runs into the air box, cracked and leaky.
I've reviewed the process of replacing the tube. Seems like an all-day PITA. So, I removed the 90, a bit of a pain in itself. I bought some 5/8" heater hose at Pep Boys and some spring type hose clamps. I just connected a short bit of hose to a breather filter and plugged the hose into the air box. Those hose clamps are a snap to get on with some long needle-nose pliers.
I only had time to start the bike and rev it a few times before I had to leave my house, but it definitely idles better than it did.
Tomorrow's ride will tell the story.
Post by: Laitch on July 17, 2016, 12:30:29 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on July 17, 2016, 06:03:10 AM
Nice!... Coleman Dual Fuel 533 single burner in the upper left quadrant (beside the gray coffee can).
Do you "pack any heat" with that?
Post by: The Dude on July 17, 2016, 06:19:35 AM
... Coleman Dual Fuel 533 single burner in the upper left quadrant (beside the gray coffee can).Gotcha.I equip similarly but not so wokcentric.
Post by: F14CRAZY on July 17, 2016, 01:02:58 PM
The said some of the bolts that hold it together were loose. Is there a reason for that?
Before I put it back on I removed the trans to clean and lube the clutch splines. About 30k miles and two seasons since I did that, which was when I replaced the clutch disc due to the hub splines being near failure. Wear on the hub this time was negligible and the trans input shaft looked good. Lubed with Honda Moly 60.
Post by: ICBMW on July 17, 2016, 04:44:14 PM
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Post by: Brahma on July 17, 2016, 08:55:21 PM
Now my speedo went dead. It was intermittent- more than normally so, so I tried some carbon conducting grease. I tweaked the pins a little, then put the three pins in, but did NOT fully seat them, instead, pushing them in until I felt resistance. I thought this was a snug fit, also supported by the fact that the plastic support "bridging"- now broken, was at the same "elevation", which would have held the pins out a little. I'll pull it off and reseat to check.
Damn speedometer...
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 17, 2016, 10:15:41 PM
I did have one heart-attack moment. I was cruising on the motorway at about 75 when a heron was flying around. A few cars managed to miss the thing, but it veered right just as I was about to pass. Nailed it with my front wheel!
The bike never skipped a beat. Just glad the poor thing wasn't flying two feet higher.
I'll post pictures of the breather mod tomorrow.
Post by: bocutter Ed on July 18, 2016, 08:43:10 AM
... not so wokcentric.Reason for the wokcentricity is my shop's proximity to the storage building 10 cubic yard 'tip'. It's amazing what people will pay to store for years ... then into the dumpster when they move out.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 19, 2016, 08:28:42 PM
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/Elbow.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/Elbow.jpg.html)
And this:
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/pipe.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/pipe.jpg.html)
I removed the elbow and ran a tube directly from the crankcase up to this filter:
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/Filter.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/Filter.jpg.html)
I just put a 3/8" vacuum cap over the end of the connector to the top hose (seen at left.)
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/Breath.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/Breath.jpg.html)
Post by: The Dude on July 19, 2016, 11:33:58 PM
I hope it doesn't end up looking like my Guzzi or your BSA after a long hot blast.
Wrap the end in a plastic bag?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 20, 2016, 07:18:49 AM
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2016, 07:57:24 AM
Post by: bizzaro on July 20, 2016, 11:09:31 AM
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2016, 11:24:09 AM
:falldown: No injuries I had my tires hard for pavement and got side tracked on wet n greassy dirt road!Two more miles and I woulda been clear. Trying to decide to replace the fairing or butcher it?I'm glad you're ok, bizzaro. The backroads up here that get chloride spread on them to control dust and tighten them up after grading are especially challenging to navigate with road tires after a soaking rain depending upon how well they've been crowned. If I come across LT parts I'll let you know.
Post by: bizzaro on July 20, 2016, 11:57:39 AM
I also did the Techron treatment. Full bottle in half a tank o gas. WOW! What a difference. I used it regularly last season, but backed off so far this year? Its like a tune up in a bottle :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2016, 12:19:51 PM
I have collision insurance on it. Not sure if it would be worth it to make a claim?No telling. A couple of members have extensive experience with tip-over damage repair—one of them does three-at-a-time tip-overs—just to keep his repair skills up I'm guessing. Maybe one of them will chime in with repair techniques. There are certainly a few threads about fairing repairs on the site.
Post by: Martin on July 20, 2016, 05:08:07 PM
than having it professionally done. Also I have never been able to match metallic paint only solid colours. I did remove all the parts and took them to the repair shop which did save money.
Good luck Martin.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on July 20, 2016, 05:47:22 PM
Woohoo!....the face lift continues. :2thumbup:
Heat shield installed and a few missing or damaged pieces of trim or hardware.
:k75s
Post by: kmev on July 26, 2016, 11:56:47 PM
Broke in the new tires with a 700-mile round-trip to Aerostich in Duluth to get a new riding suit. Word of warning - if they send you an email claiming an in-person discount, be prepared to produce said email to secure said discount, and then only getting a discount on a portion of your purchase. I expected better of them.
Post by: The Dude on July 27, 2016, 12:56:35 AM
I expected better of them."............"
I'm an old fart.
Nice bike though!
Post by: Laitch on July 27, 2016, 01:25:32 AM
"............"You're a cryptic old fart though, and that ought to count for something!
I'm an old fart.
Post by: The Dude on July 27, 2016, 04:05:44 AM
You're a cryptic old fart though, and that ought to count for something!Eh!I'm a synical,cryptical old fart.I have someway to go,yet and this is the bright side.
I have also recently become a devout tongue biter.Not very cathartic but I'll get over it and the pain seems to help put it all into perspective.
Post by: Laitch on July 27, 2016, 04:08:07 AM
Eh!I'm a synical,cryptical old fart.I have someway to go,yet and this is the bright side.It's a fortunate, cryptic old fart who finds somebody's tongue to bite. Especially somebody who is devout.
I have also recently become a devout tongue biter.Not very cathartic but I'll get over it and the pain seems to help put it all into perspective.
Post by: TrueAce on July 27, 2016, 10:46:57 AM
Post by: The Dude on July 27, 2016, 07:15:42 PM
Tongue biting can be a result of seizures. Been taking your meds?Meds not working.Might have to bite a bullet and take a deep breath.
Just about to swap battery from Guzz to Beemer and go for a blast....then do the splines,ho hum.
Bought this from BMW.That's what their mechanics are using.Its white but no actual mention of molibdium disulphide....
Post by: The Dude on July 28, 2016, 12:06:20 AM
It's a fortunate, cryptic old fart who finds somebody's tongue to bite. Especially somebody who is devout.I know,I've been lucky,that's what keeps me hopeful...And...curiously,I am wedd to a devout woman but who insists it's my tongue I must bite and in my case that is good advice.Especially if she's within earshot.
However,my devout less ness remains as if solid as a rock and kept safely under one,mostly.
Post by: beemerphile on July 28, 2016, 08:16:04 AM
Just wired as running lights at the moment though the final plan is to have them also flash with the turn signals.
Here is a wiring trick to consider when wiring up LED marker lights that works so long as you still have incandescent turn signal bulbs. Wire the LED marker lights to TWO positive feeds: The positive connects to a 12v(+) line that is powered any time you are running. The negative connects to the positive of the turn signal.
In normal operation, the LED is lit because it grounds through the filament of the (not lit) turn signal bulb. The turn signal is not lit because the current through the LED is insufficient to light the incandescent. When the turn signal is activated, the LED goes out because it has 12V(+) at both terminals.
The net effect is a marker light that alternates (wig wags) with the turn signal.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I didn't do anything with my new K1100RS because I don't pick it up until next week. I did, however, score a new Remus full exhaust to replace the overweight crusty crack-o-matic that BMW chose to hang on it.
Post by: ICBMW on July 28, 2016, 07:33:25 PM
Post by: herseyb on July 28, 2016, 07:46:58 PM
Post by: bizzaro on July 28, 2016, 08:25:03 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 28, 2016, 08:38:50 PM
I thought guard dog was out of business?Going but not gone yet. Here's (http://guarddogmoly.com) their notice.
Post by: bizzaro on August 07, 2016, 10:35:52 PM
This is the best freaken forum on the internet! I am doing things I could not even fathom without this site! :riding: I want to thank all of you that make it what it is. Generously sharing knowledge and experience. Giving guidence, and advice! And a dose of humor thrown in for good measure! There is so much information here.
Post by: TrueAce on August 07, 2016, 10:42:02 PM
But tell me again how you adjusted the speedometer to read 100mph?
Post by: Laitch on August 07, 2016, 10:43:11 PM
He used the throttle, Ace.
But tell me again how you adjusted the speedometer to read 100mph?
Post by: bizzaro on August 07, 2016, 11:04:29 PM
Post by: TrueAce on August 08, 2016, 12:00:01 AM
Post by: Chaos on August 08, 2016, 12:56:17 AM
This is the best freaken forum on the internet!
Almost. Needs more nakkid wemon!
Post by: Laitch on August 08, 2016, 04:44:13 AM
Oh, I can do that part, I just can't do it going a 100mph holding a GPS in my hand. Maybe if I rigged a foot throttle.........Put the GPS in a harmonica holder and use a stylus attached to your nose, Ace.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 09, 2016, 03:50:03 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on August 09, 2016, 03:52:04 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on August 09, 2016, 03:54:16 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 09, 2016, 04:05:29 PM
Riding ''85RS this summer, sorting out miss/hiccup that has been around since '14. So, leave off stuff to fiddle. Attached screen to keep grasshoppers, sand and deer, from getting stuck in rad.That screen might be a little too fine, creating turbulence that restricts airflow through the radiator and into the intake. Keep alert for rising temperature and more performance problems. I vacuum the air box and shake out the filter a couple of times during the season. Hose off the radiator, too. I've got a naked bike so it's not much of a hassle.
Post by: TrueAce on August 09, 2016, 04:29:00 PM
Post by: herseyb on August 09, 2016, 04:39:14 PM
Right side.
OOOOOoooOOOOOO... shiny!!! :clap: :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on August 09, 2016, 04:43:07 PM
OOOOOoooOOOOOO... shiny!!! :clap: :2thumbup:I was so busy being critical, I missed that. :2thumbup:
Post by: Nine80seven on August 09, 2016, 05:42:05 PM
Also will remove screen when standard nacelle is reattached.
Post by: F14CRAZY on August 09, 2016, 05:56:27 PM
Post by: beemerphile on August 09, 2016, 08:35:07 PM
Riding ''85RS this summer, sorting out miss/hiccup that has been around since '14.
I'd be interested in hearing if you find a solution. Mine does a similar trick.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 09, 2016, 09:17:30 PM
Last winter tore into it, put '87 front on with the nice integral brace. Swapped out TBs, ECU, FICU, new HES, always following the niggling problem of that tick tick tick once it got warmed up. Cold at start up, smooth as glass right through rpms.
All warmed up, feel it in the bars, just a little knock, hard to describe. In neutral after a ride, twist the throttle up, 2-3-4-5k, and it almost seems like an ignition problem? So, I think a lot about it. New plugs, new wires, plugs always way nice color. Gonna check the coils again tonight after dark, just for fun. It's like a hobby, a mystery. Ran very, I mean carbon black pipe rich. Did lean drop routine and backed off the mixture. Didn't stop the tick.
So now I'm thinking maybe just maybe there's a leaking valve or two since they were so tight. Just glad I got something I like to do.
Forgot to mention, compression is 161,153,156,156.
Post by: TimTyler on August 09, 2016, 11:44:44 PM
It's crazy how a couple degrees makes that much difference.
Post by: bocutter Ed on August 11, 2016, 11:24:23 AM
Search leads me to believe it's for a K1.
Post by: Shiny on August 12, 2016, 12:01:17 PM
Mine runs strong, pulls like a freight train, idles perfect, for me being use to a slightly hotted old R90S, this K is a power stroker. It had some strange things entered on old service records that have been rectified. Valves were way out of spec, way too tight. All dealer maintenance previous to me. So, like any new used bike, have slowly gone through every bit. After all, it's a machine, it was put together, can be taken apart and fixed.
Last winter tore into it, put '87 front on with the nice integral brace. Swapped out TBs, ECU, FICU, new HES, always following the niggling problem of that tick tick tick once it got warmed up. Cold at start up, smooth as glass right through rpms.
All warmed up, feel it in the bars, just a little knock, hard to describe. In neutral after a ride, twist the throttle up, 2-3-4-5k, and it almost seems like an ignition problem? So, I think a lot about it. New plugs, new wires, plugs always way nice color. Gonna check the coils again tonight after dark, just for fun. It's like a hobby, a mystery. Ran very, I mean carbon black pipe rich. Did lean drop routine and backed off the mixture. Didn't stop the tick.
So now I'm thinking maybe just maybe there's a leaking valve or two since they were so tight. Just glad I got something I like to do.
Forgot to mention, compression is 161,153,156,156.
Just a thought, but pre-detonation due to lean-ness... Is your altitude plug connected?
I like your thought that an always open valve allows detonation in the exhaust manifold, have you pulled it off to check? I assume you'd be able to see evidence.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 12, 2016, 12:50:02 PM
Last evening changed out fuel filter just because hadn't done it yet. Altitude plug out. The leaky valve idea has always been in the back of my mind, just that it's a big job. Will swap heads this winter, however, since I have done about everything except put in a reconditioned head. The head currently on the bike is the original '84 stamped with recent adjusted valves having zero adjustment left. That's when the shims are down to 2mm.
As stated before, was very black carbon rich when I got it. As everyone says, old bricks are rich running. So I did the lean drop routine to get it back to proper CO mix. I'll know next spring how the '89 reconditioned head works out. Till then, well, I'm going for a quick spin right now.
So, I think this motor was ridden pretty hard, as it would have been cause they're slab crunchers, and the valves at some point, when not adjusted in spec. May have been burned. That's why maybe at cold start up things are copesthetic, perfect, and then when hot the irregular popping is detectable. No popping on deceleration, TPS works fine, unless I want to make it pop. Somewhere I read the early heads may or may not have needed leaded gas? Don't know that one for sure.
Post by: Martin on August 12, 2016, 01:34:36 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Vespa no more on August 13, 2016, 06:29:30 AM
"What my Motobrick did to me today"
Bought two more bloody bikes and had to stash them at my mate's place - to keep them from my wife.
Pathetic.
Not the basic for a happy and health marriage - though I can't help feeling a little please with the whole mission.
Anyone else care to confess moments of madness?
Regards
Guy
Post by: bizzaro on August 13, 2016, 09:20:00 AM
Post by: TrueAce on August 13, 2016, 10:50:37 AM
Post by: bizzaro on August 13, 2016, 10:59:51 AM
Post by: TrueAce on August 13, 2016, 11:37:22 AM
Personally, I have never understood the fascination with GPS, radar detectors, speedometers, and electronic gizmos like trackers..........my motorcycles have one direction and one speed, "GO" and FAST". You can figure out how to get back after you get "THERE".
Post by: Chaos on August 13, 2016, 01:19:29 PM
Personally, I have never understood the fascination with GPS, radar detectors, speedometers, and electronic gizmos like trackers.........
+1 Speedo, odo, tach, clock. And they don't work all the time. I ride to get away from being in touch with stuff that doesn't matter!
Post by: DavidATL on August 13, 2016, 11:30:19 PM
Post by: TrueAce on August 14, 2016, 12:04:52 AM
Post by: K1300S on August 14, 2016, 11:49:39 AM
That's a COOL way to start your day! A lot of cities have great loop systems, how many folks have "Looped The Loop" of their cities?
there is a loop around washington dc, but it is the last place you want to be on a bike. i avoid it like the plague. traffic and lunatics.
Post by: DavidATL on August 14, 2016, 12:33:51 PM
there is a loop around washington dc, but it is the last place you want to be on a bike. i avoid it like the plague. traffic and lunatics.
Same with 285 around Atlanta and 440 and someday 540 around Raleigh. I've done it when I had to but only after several prayers.
Post by: bizzaro on August 14, 2016, 09:04:44 PM
Also during a compression test today my starter stopped engaging the engine(like the sprague clutch was slipping). Then the starter stopped even spinning at all. No power to the starter. Push the starter and nothing. So I commenced to removing the trim panels(about 45 minutes). When I was done, I hooked the gas pump back up, and it started right up like nothing had happened. Took her for a spin with the "new look". Bottle of magic juice, tune up in a bottle (Techron) and some non ethyl 91. Yeehaw!!! :riding:
So any guesses as to why the starter quit? And in sequence of the sprague, then the starter altogether. If the gas pump runs dry, does that shut anything down? I was double testing it with two compression testers. (test was not good by the way, about 100PSI all around. I have got to get the valve cover off and check the valve clearance's soon.)I started doing the wet test,(squirt a bit of oil in the cylinder), and on the second cylinder is when the starter went stupid? :dunno2:
Post by: Laitch on August 14, 2016, 10:25:40 PM
Your bike's battery is weak, its connections are loose, both, or Satan took momentary possession of your bike and was driven from it by your touch which will become a potential source of income for you as you travel across this great land setting up your tent to which Brick owners will bring their ailing bikes to have them restored by the laying on of your hands.
So any guesses as to why the starter quit?
Post by: bizzaro on August 14, 2016, 11:09:49 PM
Oh Well it is running now. What gets me, is even with the low compression, the bike runs pretty well, definitely missing power, but still runs good. Especially with the magic juice in the tank. That(Techron) shit amazes me. And I do not burn any oil! WTF??Gots to be the valves. Probably burnt. Can you get valves for a brick?
Post by: Laitch on August 14, 2016, 11:23:00 PM
Gots to be the valves. Probably burnt. Can you get valves for a brick?I think it would be weird for valves to burn uniformly enough that all cylinders had close compression readings, especially in an engine known for stable valve clearances.
Did you use a different gauge than the last time you checked?
Post by: bizzaro on August 14, 2016, 11:54:58 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 14, 2016, 11:58:10 PM
:musicboohoo:cables, and spark plugs!Yes, it's all very tragic, biz, but you didn't answer my question.
Post by: bizzaro on August 15, 2016, 12:09:01 AM
1st test..1-95 2-100 3-100 4-90 2nd test, different compression(the original one) tester ...1-110 2-120 3-120 4=110 Both testers are old. It's what I gots. My bike is definitely lacking power.
Post by: Chaos on August 15, 2016, 12:12:01 AM
Post by: bizzaro on August 15, 2016, 12:21:12 AM
Back on subject.............Yea I like the LT but man there is a ton of tupperware. I may lose much of it for good. But once I start cutting it up, no turning back?
Post by: The Dude on August 15, 2016, 12:51:17 AM
Back on subject.............Yea I like the LT but man there is a ton of tupperware. I may lose much of it for good. But once I start cutting it up, no turning back?Let nature modify these things in the fullness of time.Deers,dogs,lamposts.Don't waste one on the chopper.Sounds like your looking for a new Brick anyway what with your reduced power issue...or just ride it into its own sunset.
I finally checked my valve clearences today.'Still on that stable plateau of no change for miles and miles.Thinnest shim is 2.50 mm.
I hear references to Bricks being run on "low octane" fuel.I have used high quality 95 or more only.This,maybe,effects your valve's longevity.
Post by: Vespa no more on August 15, 2016, 07:01:27 AM
that big, scratched red front mudguard caught my eye - looked Indian Chief-esque. Has anyone done something excessive with fairings on a K-bike... maybe something on the lines of the 1950s beaten aluminum racing bikes. Has to be home made or achievable.
taking it further still, has anyone ever screwed the engine covers off a k motor onto the sides of a modified fuel tank .. purely for aesthetic purposes.
Have got hold of a parts bike.. too far gone but can't think what to do with it. No seat, no air filter nor throttle body etc (2 wheels and a motor and front section is about it. Will break it up and sell some bits on (83 or 84 K100RS) Sydney / Wollongong area
Post by: Nine80seven on August 18, 2016, 03:53:22 PM
Before doing anything I think a lot about stuff, and it helps to have an extra scoot. So, I did a leak down test with compressed air on each cylinder in turn using 100psi at top dead center compression. Cold, no leaks into crankcase or exhaust pipe. Hot? Same deal. This old K doesn't, far as I can ascertain have a leaky valve or valves!
I'm not an expert mechanic, don't have a scope thingy I can snake in there, just that there were no perceivable leaking sounds or rushing air.
Now on to other stuff, went to the baseline of the bike's condition when I received it. So today reattached the pressure switch that signals to the ECU which according to somebody modifies the midrange throttle response. Went for hot lap or two. No difference. Same old same old. Not to worry, cuz it's becoming clearer that there must be either an intake leak problem which doesn't show itself until the engine gets hot, or, maybe, I'm still thinking.
Doing one thing at a time, bound sooner or later to hit on the problem. Here's the plugs, they all look the same, tan on the porcelain.
Post by: The Dude on August 18, 2016, 11:26:07 PM
I'm surprised at 84 k miles your shims are at the minimum.Oh I remember they had faulty speedos back then and changed them under warranty.I'm on my third....
The old K100 did make funny knocking noises and if your the sensitive silent type you might get a little worried about them but if it's not progressing worse then no worries.
Today I got my act together and finally restarted my 75s from an extended servicing regime.I had changed the oil filter so when I noticed that the oil level had been reduced by the filter filling,It needed topping up.Because I used the lawn mower batery to jump start I left it running on a fast idle (didn't want starter relay weld up,again)whilst I removed the oil filler cap,never done this on the brick but...I knew it could be messy so I gingerly removed the cap and the revs dropped to almost stalled no gushing mess and a quick twist of the idle speed adjuster kept it going whilst I poured in more oil.Cap back on and the revs went back up.So I thought,oh yeah the crank case breather rubber must be alright,then and I went for a great little blast and back.This is a motor that has been serviced for a quarter of a million km and runs as good or better than it ever did!
I always start off overly gentle expecting a Big Crunch and by the time I'm on way back I'm back up to ,,,well, the ton (Licence loosing)on this little outing with no crunching, piston shattering wheel locking disaster.Happy days. :riding:
Post by: Nine80seven on August 19, 2016, 01:10:20 AM
Post by: The Dude on August 19, 2016, 05:37:26 AM
Can only figure early heads, circa '84, had fast wearing valve seats. Exhaust valve last adjustment by dealer 12k previous, clearance varied between .20mm-.15mm. Intake, wait for it...., .12mm-.07mm. On cylinder three exhaust down to 2.10 shim. So have keep eye on it. Not much left to adjust. It was as if no adjustment had ever been made, or, bad seats. Anywho, they're clicking real nice now, like a sewing machine. I think the mileage is correct unless first owner rode the crap outta it. Getting bike to where I like to ride. Plan to ride well into my late years and I like this one. Plenty smooth compared to some buzz bombs.Your minimal "tappet" clearences won't help.A quick sum suggests your ex valve had a 2.25thick shim before it was replaced.This is a high milage shim or...
In my limited experience the 8 valves "seat"in with a flurry of shim changing,then they settle down for a long haul of stability for years,50-100 k miles.If the odo is original...the previous owner must have been,,,well she didn't write the bike off so must have been a real good rider for the thrashing it must have got,from cold,every day...I read somewhere ,years ago,BMW engines are QA random sample tested for 100hours at the red line when standard practice was 50 hours.Brick red line is conservative and the rev limiter sorts out the idiots cause there is no point being up there unless you stole it and were continually running away from the law.(mind you there's just too many corners and no real lengths of "slab" where I come from).So,I would be very dissapointed in what you've ended up with,unless there is a realistic explanation.Like valve seats cut too deep and original shims had to be thinner to get over the manufacturing "fur cup", as they say.
My smallest ex shim is 2.50,now,maybe 2.45 cause I have a crap vernier and I've done ...almost twice your indicated milage.And I stole it for half that,at least.
'Not very likely that '84 s had below par valve seats .German metalagy has been the best ...on the planet for the last 50 years and the designers would have been told this"new"design must not fail (early)because they traded on high milage high speed reliability and they'd just departed from those funny airheads so risk management...
I suspect your fuel is crap...or your using minimum octane.Forget lead and valve seats,that was bullshit,by the way.It was the cheapest nastiest way of improving preignition,pinking,knocking.
Just saying.
Any who?you could be on that long plateau of valve adjustment stability.Good you've got a long term plan.Remember:The greatest risk by a wide margin to the longevity of your brick and you is some variation on T boning that car at the intersection.
Any who,all the best.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 19, 2016, 09:27:52 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 19, 2016, 10:47:45 PM
Now I have a loose lamp, can't seem to pull the plug off, and I darn sure can't get this stupid ring back into place. Do I really need to remove the fairing to replace a headlight lamp?
WTF: I thought BMWs were supposed to be easy to work on!
Post by: Laitch on August 19, 2016, 11:23:14 PM
I thought BMWs were supposed to be easy to work on!Many people thought they never needed work, Blitzen Gruv. They were wrong too. Anyway, does this help?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 20, 2016, 02:35:45 AM
That retainer is a PITA to put back in place!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 20, 2016, 10:23:30 AM
I am going to guess that your hands are a lot bigger than mine.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 20, 2016, 11:22:41 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 20, 2016, 11:41:28 AM
Post by: Laitch on August 20, 2016, 12:54:18 PM
I just changed the bulb on my RS and it took about a half hour. It was not easy, but it wasn't impossible either.The Riders Manual makes it look so easy—another Teutonic myth. Would light-backpacker's chopsticks help?
Post by: Chaos on August 20, 2016, 02:55:32 PM
I just changed the bulb on my RS and it took about a half hour. It was not easy, but it wasn't impossible either.
I am going to guess that your hands are a lot bigger than mine.
Sounds like Donald could get a job changing headlight bulbs if his presidential ambitions don't pan out.
Post by: The Dude on August 20, 2016, 03:23:53 PM
He could start with the one in his own head.
Sounds like Donald could get a job changing headlight bulbs if his presidential ambitions don't pan out.
By the way,Donald doesn't actually want the job.You can tell,if you read between the lines of his TelePrompTer.
Post by: TrueAce on August 20, 2016, 04:16:12 PM
Post by: The Dude on August 20, 2016, 06:17:46 PM
Why should be take a pay cut? He never thought he would get this far, and can't find a graceful way out. Like the old saying "Sometimes the dawg catches the car".Your onto it.Those effing dawgs.I get off and kick the living shit out of them,now.(My contribution to motorcycling safety).It works,mostly.
This excersise was leverage to increase his media network pay packet.
Post by: Chaos on August 20, 2016, 06:54:11 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 20, 2016, 07:09:08 PM
On my Ural one slotted screw drops the whole headlight assembly.Same one-screw disassembly with my K75 Standard.
Post by: bizzaro on August 21, 2016, 05:57:35 PM
Intake: 1a=.15 1b=.15 / 2a=.18 2b=.20 / 3a=.20 3b=.20 / 4a=.13 4b=.19. I don't like that many are just at the limit, and 4a is real tight!
Exhaust: 1a=.29 1b=.28 / 2a=.30 2b=.30 /3a=.28 3b=.28 [ 4a=.28 4b-.30. Again many at the limit of margin. I did them all twice to be sure. I am pretty sure Chris Harris says the exhaust valves are fine a little loose.
After only 4k on my spark plugs, they are so oily, fuel wet, and full of carbon, they failed. I have never had that happen. They are Bosch, but made in India if that has anything to do with it. Got them through NAPA and had to get a 10 pack for $75! Instead of the familiar green circular stripe, they have blue stripes. My bike hardly uses oil, and I get in the mid 40's for mpg?? :dunno2: Gots to get this biatch running right. OH Yea, I have shitty compression across the board. Looks like a Winter tear-down to me.
Post by: Martin on August 21, 2016, 06:32:13 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bizzaro on August 21, 2016, 07:13:46 PM
I used two compression testers. They both came within 10 or 20 PSI. All right around 100 to 120 psi.
1st test..1-95 2-100 3-100 4-90 2nd test, different compression tester ...1-110 2-120 3-120 4=110 Both testers are old. It's what I gots. My bike is definitely lacking power.
And the plugs that came out were seriously spent. Sparking all over inside by the insulator, not at the tip. I used an old set to check the spark before I pulled the plugs in the bike. The test plugs had a great spark. The ones in the bike did not! My bike has been running progressively worse. Stumbling and coughing whenever? I am trying to eliminate the simple stuff first. I made sure I had decent fuel pressure. It was pumping fine, but I replaced the filter anyway. Then I checked the spark by connecting my plug leads to a set of old plugs and grounding them. Great spark. That is when it dawned on me the plugs in the bike were bad. With only 4k on them mind you! So out they come and were tested like the used ones grounded and connected to the leads.................Spark was dismal, sporadic and weak. So it is running much better now, Though still lacking power. Hoping it keeps me on the road till the season ends.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 21, 2016, 08:04:28 PM
Still, I didn't make it in time for the group ride to the Ton Up meeting. I made the meeting though, nice 100 mile round trip.
However, I think that Lucas has infected the electrics from being parked next to the BSA. The turn signals quit locking in the on position. I can hold the button and they work, but as soon as I release they stop. Is there some relay I should be looking at to solve this?
Post by: Laitch on August 21, 2016, 08:34:41 PM
The turn signals quit locking in the on position.Both sides' signals or just one side's signal?
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on August 21, 2016, 08:51:28 PM
2. Replaced the cluster support (Had a broken retention bolt and was fatigued in many places)
3. Replaced the high beam indicator lamp (burnt out)
Post by: Martin on August 21, 2016, 08:58:07 PM
Good luck regards Martin.
Post by: bizzaro on August 21, 2016, 10:00:13 PM
I tried out a K1100RS the other day and man.........................freaken sweet!!! The motor was smooth as butter. I mean unbelievable smooth, powerful, and even. Not the slightest stutter or hesitation. Just smooth power! WOW! !Drive train perfect. Hardly any slack at all. Shifted like magic. OMG! I would have bought it cept I can't sit in that position for long. My wrists hurt before I left the driveway! But my god what a tight machine that was.
Post by: Martin on August 21, 2016, 11:01:25 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bizzaro on August 21, 2016, 11:08:03 PM
But really I just want the motor and drive train. The guy is not driving it.. I can just sneak over there some night and trade um out with mine! He will never know! :clap: :hehehe
Post by: Martin on August 21, 2016, 11:23:30 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 22, 2016, 04:39:06 AM
Both sides' signals or just one side's signal?
Both sides.
Signals flash at the normal rate, but only as long as the button is held down.
Post by: herseyb on August 22, 2016, 12:13:40 PM
only sign of wear was on my final drive, where it looked a little more worn than when I did final drive only lube last year.
1 or 2 mm more, maybe up to half a cm of wear deep.
Went with the honda lube last year, guard dog this year. Hopefully the guard dog stays in place a little better cause the honda had all slung off for the most part... I want my baby to live forever!
Wear pattern was even on all the teeth, triangular taper from the front leading edge.
First time, 4 hours off, 6 hours on, with occasional oversight from my mechanic buddy. Needed his help to get the bell housing back on - wouldn't fit for shit until we turned the crankshaft a little bit. then it slipped right on, easy peasy.
These BMWs are nice... If it ain't screwing together with your fingers, something isn't right.
Post by: The Dude on August 22, 2016, 02:35:28 PM
It could be a "latching"relay not latching any more.The cancelling switch would open circuit the relay closing coil to release the contacts...in my simple world.
Still,they're now idiot proof.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 23, 2016, 04:17:55 AM
I suppose the "latching relay" is a part of the flasher unit. Looking at the wiring diagram, it's not your generic 3-terminal flasher unit.
Could also be water in the RH switch causing the cancel button to short or stick. The bike got rained on shortly before my last ride.
Post by: The Dude on August 23, 2016, 02:36:09 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 23, 2016, 03:39:11 PM
Shoot a little WD in there and all will be well.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 25, 2016, 03:39:45 PM
Previous dealer service records were very strange with wacky comp. numbers, wackier valve adj., loose wires and such. Front brakes soaked in fork oil, rear MC leaking, all around ridiculous. And that's when I figured the TB balance was prolly wacko. And it was.
Balanced them last evening, went for a spin this morgan and the knock knick is gone. There is still a small miss when hot and sitting after ride, and I throttle through full RPM range. As if maybe I got a tiny leak either intake plenum to exhaust manifold. Almost imperceptible.
So with this brick the TBs were way out of sync and now it's running 98 percent better. Tickled blue here. Now gotta change out rear shocks on my other brick, the old red Volvo.
This is the coolest damn rig I think I ever had. A scoot with aplomb, grace and torque.
Post by: motorheadsdiygarage on August 26, 2016, 10:23:35 AM
2. Replaced the cracked vent line from the crankcase to the Air Box.
Post by: Laitch on August 26, 2016, 10:40:27 AM
1. Replaced the clutch cable (outer casing cracked).Good photos!
2. Replaced the cracked vent line from the crankcase to the Air Box.
Post by: K1300S on August 26, 2016, 11:48:51 AM
Final report on knock, knick, tick tock glitch felt through the bars etc. after warm up, '85 KRS, early. As mentioned before been working through the systems, all cleaned up, love the bike, ergo good. The one thing I never did was get a decent set TB balancers.
Previous dealer service records were very strange with wacky comp. numbers, wackier valve adj., loose wires and such. Front brakes soaked in fork oil, rear MC leaking, all around ridiculous. And that's when I figured the TB balance was prolly wacko. And it was.
Balanced them last evening, went for a spin this morgan and the knock knick is gone. There is still a small miss when hot and sitting after ride, and I throttle through full RPM range. As if maybe I got a tiny leak either intake plenum to exhaust manifold. Almost imperceptible.
So with this brick the TBs were way out of sync and now it's running 98 percent better. Tickled blue here. Now gotta change out rear shocks on my other brick, the old red Volvo.
This is the coolest damn rig I think I ever had. A scoot with aplomb, grace and torque.
and hence when anyone says the brick isn't running right for any reason, the first thing to do is go step by step through the balance and tune process.
Post by: RobP on August 29, 2016, 08:13:32 PM
Quote
Going for an '89 cylinder head transplant
Nine80:
Is the '89 a 16V head? Can you put that on a '85 8V block?
What type of exhaust are you running on your K100RS? I need to find a replacement for my stock exhaust - it must have a broken internal baffle and it has a very annoying, high pitched vibration at certain RPMs.
Beautiful bike, BTW.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 29, 2016, 08:35:46 PM
Post by: jaxon on August 30, 2016, 11:14:34 PM
Made a first attempt to sync the throttle body. Seem pretty even to me.
More to do's on the way.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 31, 2016, 06:06:43 AM
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/camera.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/camera.jpg.html)
No way to use the handlebar mount which came with the camera, so I had to improvise. Parts cost about $8.
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/mount.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/mount.jpg.html)
Post by: TrueAce on August 31, 2016, 10:14:35 PM
Post by: White Dog on September 01, 2016, 09:06:02 PM
Post by: K1300S on September 01, 2016, 09:16:46 PM
I added a bath towel rack
Parts cost about $8.
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp13/AudioApe/mount.jpg) (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/AudioApe/media/mount.jpg.html)
fixed that for ya! :-)
Post by: Bill on September 01, 2016, 09:22:20 PM
Post by: Chaos on September 02, 2016, 04:41:08 PM
Post by: Martin on September 02, 2016, 04:52:58 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 02, 2016, 05:02:26 PM
Replaced bad valve stem. Ahhh, my mechanical and carpentry talents combine to make a PITA job a 2 beer minor choreExcellent and helpful post, Chaos!
Post by: TrueAce on September 02, 2016, 05:31:07 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on September 02, 2016, 08:52:21 PM
Now that is sure nuff red neck engineering! Very clever! :clap:That's just the prototype. Production model will feature a color-matched anodized aluminum tube with chrome clamps.
If I sell them only at dealerships I can charge at least $200.
Post by: thecableguy on September 03, 2016, 10:32:01 PM
Pulled the cluster, cleaned connectors with DeOxit, dabbed a bit of copper anti-seize on each pin and reassembled. Did the same for the connector under the side cover.
Put it all back together and took a test drive. Works great so far!!
Best part of the day...
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14191979_10157298111030461_8044004458609180971_n.jpg?oh=663537a64f4b13a6ab00abdeb1a60e46&oe=584A7487)
Post by: moto949 on September 13, 2016, 07:10:50 PM
Background; I spent the first 1k miles of my new-old 93 K75S on stock bias Metzelers. Then I just had to fit an 18x4.5 rear wheel (that came with an almost new 160/60 18 Pirelli Strada radial). I did the center/side stand(s) upgrade with all the spacer/grinding hassle but the new look was worth it to me. Not wanting to mix radial with bias, I then fit a front 110/80 18 Pirelli Angel. Honestly, I barely noticed much difference to the previous bias ply tires; maybe a slight ride/steering improvement, plus a different, but certainly not improved, "feel" in the corners.
Rode these for 3k miles with no issues, then chanced ordering a new rear tire that I'm unaware anyone's tried on a K75 18 inch rear conversion; a 140/70 18. I noticed Bridgestone approves their BT54 radial for a 4.5 inch rim, and this combo matches the height of the stock 130/90 17 better than the 160/60 18, which is certainly shorter.
Okay, first ride with the new 140/70 18; the rear rode so cushy that I actually pulled over to see if it was down 10 or even 15 psi - it wasn't. After I got used to this happy improvement, I tried a few corners and was pleasantly surprised again. I suppose there's something about the way this more rounded profile matches the front (unlike the squat 160/60 which visibly looked flat and very different in profile to the rounded front) that the steering is now much more fluid and the grip feels far more confidence inspiring. It's better at higher speeds and even in parking lots. Apparently the taller profile puts the right amount of rubber on the pavement when leaning.
So this was a win-win-win. Ride, steering feel, and grip. I can't wait till the front Angel wears out so I can test a front BT54R.
BTW, I ordered the BT54 model 'cause nobody had the touted T30 Bridgestones unless I wanted to order thru Ebay-Japan and pay crazy $$.
Oh, and if you're hoping that by using a narrower tire in a new 18x4.5 conversion you can get away with not upgrading to the K1100 centerstand, no such luck - there's almost no difference in the clearance. The 1100 centerstand you'll need for the conversion will still have to be ground away some.
Post by: TrueAce on September 13, 2016, 07:30:45 PM
Post by: moto949 on September 14, 2016, 12:04:38 AM
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but when I originally changed to the 160/60 18 tire on the 18x4.5 rim it of course required not only a k1100 center stand, but some grinding on the left 'foot' and 'leg' to clear the wider tire. Now, once I changed to the 140/70 1 (on the same rim), I thought there would be so much clearance that I'd possibly pass on this new info of a 140 tire on the 18 maybe not needing the 1100 center stand, therefore creating a clever shortcut - but once I mounted the wheel and 140/70 18 on the bike and rolled it off the same 1100 center stand, I saw the clearance difference where the grinding was done compared with the 160 was minimal. In fact, since the center stand legs taper more tightly towards their mounting points, the 140 tire with its taller profile comes even closer to rubbing at a different point on the center stand's inner left leg. In other words, changing your k75 to an 18 inch k1100 rim will require a k1100 center stand and some grinding no matter what tire you use.
Hope that helps.
Post by: TrueAce on September 14, 2016, 12:33:48 AM
Post by: herseyb on September 26, 2016, 02:20:09 PM
Did a pretty decent job on the crack in my luggage, all things told.
Reinforced with the metal cloth inside and sealed the top outside... Didn't wind up using any filler rods.
Post by: Martin on September 27, 2016, 02:11:03 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 28, 2016, 02:57:51 PM
(http://imageshack.com/a/img921/1279/KN5jxV.jpg)
Managed to get the FPR back in its proper place
(http://imageshack.com/a/img924/9448/nqkls0.jpg)
Used zip ties as a temporary measure on the throttle bodies because clearly the PO used the non reusable clamps one time then decided he could do without..
(http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6677/jW2yG8.jpg)
Oh I also discovered the infamous crankcase breather hose is toast as are the fuel hoses. Time to go shopping at MaxBMW.
Looking at these photos make it very clear to me how totally filthy the bike is - any tips on the best way to make it all nice and shiny?
Post by: Vespa no more on September 29, 2016, 08:21:56 AM
That wiring looms looks interesting.
Lots of fun and games ahead there.
And the filth... there is a school of thought that embraces the patina.
This could be the beginning of an ongoing and, at times, fraught relationship.
Aren't they all?
Post by: Chaos on September 29, 2016, 08:41:20 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 29, 2016, 11:04:57 AM
To that end I have found a product that does an amazing job of getting stuff squeaky clean. It is S100 cycle cleaner and I get it at, you guessed it, the local Hardly Ableson dealer. The BMW dealers sell an S100 cleaner, but it is a spray foam that works about as well as window cleaner. What you need is the liquid in the hand pump bottle.
Armed with the S100, some cheap paint brushes, rags, a sponge and a hose or even better a laundry tub with warm water I can easily do a cleaning job that equals the best any detailer can do. A bottle of wheel cleaner also comes in handy for getting wheels and really stubborn dirt off.
First step in any restoration is to remove all the easy stuff like seat, tank, side panels and fairing. Parts I can take to the tub get a good cleaning and rinse with warm water. Everything else gets cleaned one section at a time. Spray the S100 on a small area after you wet it slightly with the hose. Then work it around with the sponge and brushes for a minute or so followed by a good rinse. Go over the whole bike a section at a time, and then after it dries go back and hit any areas that still look a bit dirty.
Not only will it be a lot more pleasant working on a clean bike, but it will look so much better after you clean it that you will be more eager to work on it. Also when you are looking at really clean parts it's a lot easier to see what kind of condition they're in and figure out what you need to do to restore them if they need it.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 11:26:52 AM
I have it fairly well stripped down for now
(http://imageshack.com/a/img924/17/fbom8n.jpg)
I don't have a great big garage to work on the bike like some of you - I got very jealous at some of the photos - but I do have a great view to enjoy when I take a break
(http://imageshack.com/a/img924/52/pgUciL.jpg)
I think today's task is going to be stripping an cleaning the brake calipers, they are covered in fork oil...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 29, 2016, 12:08:26 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 12:56:07 PM
Oh I also discovered the infamous crankcase breather hose is toast as are the fuel hoses.Don't forget to buy a new coolant hose and perforated clamp for the fuel rail. :hehehe :laughing-on-ground: Nomex riding gear would be a good purchase if you intend to follow that path, and a supplemental insurance policy for "final expenses," too.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 12:59:32 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 01:02:55 PM
Honestly I think the fact that it sat for two years and needed very minor encouragement to start up again and has been running more or less ok is a real testament to bricks.I think you were lucky it was degraded in storage or else you might have been blissfully riding around on this bomb.
Post by: Inge K. on September 29, 2016, 01:19:51 PM
Do see on the picture of the wiring that the relays is mixed up a bit.
You have two relays for the ABS warning lamp, it should be only one....none of these two is in the correct
socket.
These relays is NC, while all others is NO.
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 01:34:56 PM
This could be the beginning of an ongoing and, at times, fraught relationship.Mine has been idyllic except for an hour during my second day of ownership when the bike quit operating completely three miles and 900' below the house.
Aren't they all?
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 01:47:39 PM
My knowledge of the electrics of this bike is very limited so I know I will be looking for help to get it sorted.
So far the only issue I have had is that the fan didn't turn on ever, since then it was been wired to be ALWAYS on which I don't like either so I will be adding a manual switch and trying to fix the temp control so it comes on as it is supposed to (which will be a lot since it is pretty hot down here most of the time)
Inge which relays are wrong? Here is a better picture of the relay box as it is
(http://imageshack.com/a/img922/8643/1Iskiw.jpg)
Sadly yes I paid $1250 for the bike and another $2500 to get it legal however vehicles here cost a fortune. I went into the BMW dealer last weekend to ask about spares (they looked at me blankly and said you have a what??) While I was there I sat on a brand new R1200RS which actually felt pretty good and was nice and low - so I casually asked how much it cost. With a totally straight face the salesman told me $35,000, it is good I didn't have a drink in my mouth or I am sure it would have ended up all over him!
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 02:08:32 PM
My knowledge of the electrics of this bike is very limited so I know I will be looking for help to get it sorted.It is encouraging that your bike could run at the beginning, and it has the potential to be useful and enjoyable with diligence and patience during its restoration.
Sadly yes I paid $1250 for the bike and another $2500 to get it legal however vehicles here cost a fortune.
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 02:11:56 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 02:13:13 PM
Quote
If you haven't started a Projects page, now's the time. All these procedures and their progress seem more helpful if compiled into one thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8992.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8992.0.html)
I guess that thread will work.
Post by: Inge K. on September 29, 2016, 03:11:06 PM
If you haven't done so already, scroll down in this document (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm) for two images of the relay box to get some understanding of what you're seeing. The image on the left has been rotated to fit the page but all the components and their orientation are the same as the image on the right.
That is for the early 2V models, to much different from the 4V electrics....becoming more confusing than helpful.
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2016, 03:19:27 PM
That is for the early 2V models, to much different from the 4V electrics....becoming more confusing than helpful.That's something I can fix, Inge.
Post by: Inge K. on September 29, 2016, 03:21:47 PM
Inge which relays are wrong? Here is a better picture of the relay box as it is
Of the six micro relays (arranged in two rows) the ABS warning light (blue housing) should be at rear LHS.
Rest of the relays should be the yellow or black which have the same function.
But you never know on a bike like this what mods is done for the rearrange of this and that.
Post by: Inge K. on September 29, 2016, 03:31:56 PM
There seems to be a large hole where the temp sensor relay is supposed to be.... that might explain why the fan doesn't come on
The temp management relay is a 2V thing......the Motronic unit takes care of this on your bike.
Fan relay is in the front center of the six micro relays, and as said get its signal from the Motronic.
-
-
-
-Now it's time for me to get ready to go to work.
Post by: riots100 on October 01, 2016, 11:06:41 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 02, 2016, 10:48:11 AM
Post by: thecableguy on October 02, 2016, 07:04:52 PM
Post by: jaxon on October 02, 2016, 07:48:00 PM
I'm thinking it'll be fine for a short restaurant ride or a Sunday ride. I don't think I have the "giddy up" I'd feel comfortable with compared to my previous R1200RT. I miss that bike. It was far more capable than my Ultra Classic (Motorized Sofa) in the twisties and had way more passing power.
I'm working on getting her blessing for another RT. Of course I may have to sell the Miata.
Fact is it really is harder moving down than up in bike size. Not knocking the brick, but the Queen Bee "feels" safer. This just might be my ticket. So which bike? A RT 1150 or a 1200? I'm not too keen on a new anything.
I did put some Progrip Rally's on it the night before. The original ones were hard as Chinese Arithmetic. I think I lost weight putting them on.
Wish me luck.
Post by: Scud on October 02, 2016, 08:17:34 PM
I'm working on getting her blessing for another RT. Of course I may have to sell the Miata.
Fact is it really is harder moving down than up in bike size. Not knocking the brick, but the Queen Bee "feels" safer. This just might be my ticket. So which bike? A RT 1150 or a 1200? I'm not too keen on a new anything.
Wish me luck.
Good luck.
Sell the Miata and fill the same space with motorcycles.
Don't rule out the R1100RT - I had one for quite a while. If you can find a clean, low-mile example it will last a long time. If you want to explore outside the BMW marque take a look at the Moto Guzzi Norge and the Yamaha FJR.
Post by: Martin on October 10, 2016, 12:17:48 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Dude on October 10, 2016, 09:16:52 PM
Post by: Martin on October 10, 2016, 09:50:02 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: gazman on October 10, 2016, 11:17:44 PM
Post by: The Dude on October 11, 2016, 01:43:30 AM
Mate, Suck it up buy the gasket. Sometimes ya just gotta put your hand in your pocketDon't give up too easily!
I cut up a drink can and wrap "a few times" with a little exhaust sealer.
The mica rip off is for "typical"bmw owners.We're way past that,arn't we?
Also,glass fibre woven cloth with exaust sealer will work.I build cedar strip kayaks so have heaps.
Put your hand in you're pocket for something you can't make!
Post by: Martin on October 11, 2016, 02:39:50 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: rbm on October 11, 2016, 09:53:34 PM
Post by: Martin on October 12, 2016, 03:24:17 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 12, 2016, 08:47:11 AM
Would post some photos, but I can't resize them.
Post by: mw074 on October 12, 2016, 09:41:16 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on October 12, 2016, 10:44:50 AM
I saw an excellent solution to the gasket problem done by Bocutter Ed. He used a section from a brass sink drain reducer as the source material and through clever drilling and cutting, created an expanding gasket that slipped over the header pipe. There were no seams to seal. It was posted to this forum but I had no success in finding the reference. Maybe Ed will pipe in.I call it a collet gasket, because it works kinda like a collet chuck.
rbm, I did a search for 'collet gasket' and ... nothing. Possibly I never posted the process to make one.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 12, 2016, 12:45:20 PM
Post by: drut on October 26, 2016, 01:00:42 PM
Post by: jaxon on October 26, 2016, 02:01:13 PM
Finally got round to spline lube,took some time to remove exhaust nuts/studs.Gearbox now refitted and exhaust welded but some finishing off and bits still to refit.
I got rusty nuts. No, on the bike, but not as bad. Got no real experience with how to resolve that issue.
Post by: drut on October 26, 2016, 02:16:47 PM
All depends how bad they are,mine were so rusted that I don't think I could have removed them in any reasonable space of time if I hadn't used an oxy acetylene torch.Even with using the welding torch two were very difficult and I thought I might end up drilling/tapping.Plenty of time/patience,vibration and penetrating fluid often frees most rusted nuts
Post by: Chaos on October 26, 2016, 02:27:55 PM
Post by: kryder on October 26, 2016, 08:06:47 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 06, 2016, 11:11:40 PM
Oil/filter, transmission and final drive fluid, coolant, brake bleeds, new rear tires, spline lubes, installing clutch arm zerks, fixed bad grip heater, rewired LED running lights, valve clearance, TB's, etc., etc. So far I'm about 1/2 way through my list.
It's tough to get it all done with so much nice riding weather for this time in November. Took Moby Brick out today for about 270 miles burning off the moonshine gas in the tank. If this weather holds up, I'll have to do all the maintenance again in May. However...
...two years ago next week we got 7 feet of snow in 5 days.
Post by: TrueAce on November 07, 2016, 09:41:48 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 07, 2016, 10:15:18 PM
Post by: Martin on November 07, 2016, 10:31:39 PM
Regards a puzzled Martin.
Post by: TrueAce on November 07, 2016, 10:46:16 PM
And, Martin, we eat "poke" salad, which is a leafy green plant similar to cabbage. We smoke "Square Grouper", a Florida delicacy that's been caught in these waters for years. :euro
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 10:49:16 PM
I sort of imagined Florida winter to be like Queensland winter i.e. non existent.To back up Ace, it can get cold in Florida. One winter in Miami, it was 22ºF for 11 hours—enough cold to kill back or kill off outright hundreds of thousands of dollars in tropical nursery stock and winter vegetables. Periodically it can have freezing temperatures in the low mucklands of the lower Everglades. Central and North Florida citrus groves occasionally fight off frost using smudge pots or helicopters. None of this happens yearly but it happens.
South Florida is subtropic but only the Florida Keys approach Queensland style tropics. The Bahamas and Cuba are where the tropics start. Where Ace lives gets cold in the winter. When you spend your time in 70ºF temperatures, 30ºF isn't pleasant. When you spend your time in Central Vermont, 40ºF is great!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 07, 2016, 10:55:27 PM
Post by: Martin on November 07, 2016, 11:06:11 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 08, 2016, 05:31:38 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 03, 2016, 12:12:47 PM
Picked up an old one and cut about 5-6 inches off of it, just enough to keep my GPS behind it. Will start polishing this week.
I think I like it.
Post by: Martin on December 03, 2016, 03:18:14 PM
Looking good Gryph and even though I love the colour of my bike, I do love the colour of yours. I have never ever seen a K75 or a K100 in that colour. If I ever bought another one I would love to find one in pale yellow.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on December 03, 2016, 03:55:58 PM
I think I like it.Are you going to use that fancy Lexan polishing system to clear up that screen, Gryph, even though you won't be looking through it except when you wake up from a nap?
Post by: TrueAce on December 03, 2016, 04:00:32 PM
And, Martin, there is no such "pale yellow", that's Dakar Yellow! Only 100 were imported to North America. MG & me have twins! :euro
Post by: Laitch on December 03, 2016, 04:07:58 PM
that's Dakar Yellow!I believe it was settled some time ago that the name of that color is Biological Sample Yellow #1.
Post by: Martin on December 03, 2016, 04:15:33 PM
Dakar yellow,pale yellow a rose by any other name would still smell as sweet. :dunno
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on December 03, 2016, 04:20:06 PM
Dakar yellow,pale yellow a rose by any other name would still smell as sweet. :dunnoBS Yellow #1 is usually described as pungent. :giggles
Post by: Elipten on December 03, 2016, 06:10:29 PM
I like the yellow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: TrueAce on December 03, 2016, 07:10:07 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 03, 2016, 09:40:52 PM
Ace, if you send me your windshield I'll cut it down for you. First let me get the bike out some time to confirm that it doesn't throw the turbulence up at my helmet.
Post by: TrueAce on December 03, 2016, 09:53:49 PM
Post by: jakgieger on December 03, 2016, 10:05:20 PM
Why not do this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9132.msg73563.html#msg73563) to deal with turbulence? I find that listening to Rammstein and exceeding 90 tends to increase turbulence :hehehe at all helmet levels.
Ace, if you send me your windshield I'll cut it down for you. First let me get the bike out some time to confirm that it doesn't throw the turbulence up at my helmet.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 03, 2016, 10:46:40 PM
I think the shorter shield will not only put my head in clean air, but I think it really looks a bit more modern than the taller shield with the turbulence inducing lip. Had it not been for wanting to shield my GPS, I could have cut it down an additional 2 inches. All the scratches you see are the result of sanding out a severely yellowed shield that had a lot of what looked like petrified duct tape residue stuck to it. Am going to sand with 2000 and 2400 this week and buff with Novus fine scratch remover. It won't be perfectly optically clear, but will be ok cosmetically. I'll still have the factory shield for those concours 'd elegance situations I may want to engage in.
Post by: ugatha on December 04, 2016, 07:35:36 AM
Post by: Vespa no more on December 11, 2016, 12:03:24 AM
K1100LT 1993 FBMC was seized. No manner of coercion would free it. Piston retaining screw was removed. Brake line bolt out
None had appeared online for months. Then I saw one in Germany $450.
Had to return to the shed (despite far higher priorities) and have another go.
Tried heat, WD40, INOX, vinegar, compressed air, levering piston forward through brake line hole...
Was going back and forth hitting the end of the piston with a piece of dowel and then compressed air. Was getting about 1-2 mm of movement
Epiphany: put the brake lever back on MC. hold the whole thing in a vice (soft jaws) and rapidly alternate lever (to compress the piston back into the bore and compressed air into brake line hole. Magically after 5 attempts the lever "boned up" as the compressed air forced the piston past whatever was holding it back and against the lever.
Lever back off, more air and out came the piston (against a wooden stopper). Cleaned the rubbers up with air and 1200 grit wet and dry to hone the bore.
Cheering
Smiley face HERE
Will be attempting to start this $500 ex police bike in about a week or 2.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 11, 2016, 10:40:37 AM
Post by: Scud on December 11, 2016, 11:04:01 AM
Seized front brake master cylinder fixed
K1100LT 1993 FBMC was seized. No manner of coercion would free it. Piston retaining screw was removed. Brake line bolt out
None had appeared online for months. Then I saw one in Germany $450.
Had to return to the shed (despite far higher priorities) and have another go.
Tried heat, WD40, INOX, vinegar, compressed air, levering piston forward through brake line hole...
Was going back and forth hitting the end of the piston with a piece of dowel and then compressed air. Was getting about 1-2 mm of movement
Epiphany: put the brake lever back on MC. hold the whole thing in a vice (soft jaws) and rapidly alternate lever (to compress the piston back into the bore and compressed air into brake line hole. Magically after 5 attempts the lever "boned up" as the compressed air forced the piston past whatever was holding it back and against the lever.
Lever back off, more air and out came the piston (against a wooden stopper). Cleaned the rubbers up with air and 1200 grit wet and dry to hone the bore.
Cheering
Smiley face HERE
Will be attempting to start this $500 ex police bike in about a week or 2.
:2thumbup: And it is such a satisfying experience to finally clear a difficult obstacle like that - and then to bring something back to life.
Post by: Glacial on December 12, 2016, 11:02:41 AM
I always ended up with a pain between the shoulder blades when riding my K75s. The bars had been changed by the PO to the 'C' bars and somehow it just didn't work for me no matter how much I tried to levitate the X-Wing out of the swamp. So I decided to give the RT bars a shot and now I am comfortable and happy whenever I ride. I feel like I have better low-speed control; I can look around properly at junctions (translation: intersections) and I feel like I am looking in the right place all the time instead of about 2m short of it because my neck is at the right angle. Hence good result for my shape and size (I'm 5' 11'').
Along the way I have also got hold of a city case for commuting to work. The case had to be plastic welded to repair a crack but that has worked well (some fine wire mesh and an old soldering iron was all that was required). I am looking for a left-hand city case if anyone in the UK has one spare.
I raised the screen height with an MRA unit that looks OK to my eyes attached to the standard S screen. I also fitted a pair of engine bars and re-located my riding lights onto them. Finally a comfort seat is doing what it says on the tin.
All-in-all I'm very happy with my new set-up.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 12, 2016, 11:30:32 AM
Looks like you went the other direction from me on your windshield. I went lower to get the turbulence below my helmet while you went higher. How does it work? Has it reduced wind noise for you?
Post by: Glacial on December 12, 2016, 02:10:07 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on December 16, 2016, 11:17:46 PM
Seeing that my speedo doesn't work, can someone please confirm speeds (in KM p/hr)
I'm guessing
2000 rpm = ?
3000 rpm = 60
4000= 80
5000 = 100
6000=?
7000 =? Curious... I know it's license meltdown time here and higher
Where it matters (cameras etc) I sit behind a car
Have tried the usuals (cleaning ribbon connector (unable to totally remove this) and speed sensor on final drive)
Regards
Guy
Post by: Laitch on December 16, 2016, 11:45:25 PM
I find the wind turbulence on my RT (100) quite noisy and annoying. Am not convinced it's not the helmet (AGV K3).Seeing that my speedo doesn't work, can someone please confirm speeds (in KM p/hr)You should make friends that you can ride with to help you confirm speeds, Guy. It's not difficult—a cup of coffee or tea, friendly banter, an occasional compliment.
The speed of an early K100 with a 3.00 ratio at 5000rpm can be plotted from Anton Largiader's interactive gear ratio chart (http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/). 1 km = 0.62 miles
Post by: Brad-Man on December 16, 2016, 11:53:50 PM
Kinda like saying a certain spring works well on a certain shock on their bike without stating their weight....
In the IT world such incomplete data would result in a GIGO condition.
If one REALLY wants to share information or is requesting advice it would behoove one to provide ALL pertinent variables....
Post by: Laitch on December 17, 2016, 12:12:12 AM
If one REALLY wants to share information or is requesting advice it would behoove one to provide ALL pertinent variables....In addition to weight, those variables would include chest span, waist span, gut span, helmet dimension, boot size, boot or sandal material, and whether the gear being worn is leather, Cordura, mesh (include mesh opening size), gear weight, helmet weight, whether full face protection is used and, if not, whether riding with mouth open or closed.
Post by: Chaos on December 17, 2016, 01:10:21 AM
Post by: Brad-Man on December 17, 2016, 07:33:30 AM
too much data can have the same net result as too little. Music preferences as a teenager factor into wind noise equations too.
Definitely!
I thought I was relatively terse in my suggestion - and brother Laitch was somewhat more profligate...or should I say a bit more over the top?
He also forgot to mention exactly how one is holding their tongue that's sticking out - this obviously affects weight distrbution...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 17, 2016, 10:27:18 AM
Post by: Vespa no more on December 17, 2016, 10:00:40 PM
Forgot to add the variables - but thought that most here would be familiar with them:
One testicle larger than the other, occasional erection, haemeroid, bung eye, runny nose at high speeds on cold days, deflector missing a plastic screw (broken off), difficulty talking about my emotions (conversation definitely out - good at grunting - especially at the penultimate moment), increasingly intolerant in my old age, tendency to fixate on specifics not taken into consideration by others, thinking about getting some ink...
Thanks for the speedo / rev chart. Will duly etch tacho screen with speeds. 135 @ 5,500rpm!... got to 6,500 this morning. Have ordered some inlet manifold rubbers to address vibrations and properly synch throttle bodies (not worried about reputed "world of pain"... Trump got "elected"). Still have lower sections [/size]and internal pieces of fairing off for access until I am happy with bike.On way home freeway between Sydney and Wollongong, the sunday harley brigade were out blocking the traffic. Herd mentality very evident - can't be separated. Once past them, very pleased to get a straight section and open up... but being sunday had to be wary of plod hiding like an ambush predator looking for the likes of me.
good riding to you all
Guy
Post by: Chaos on December 18, 2016, 01:42:28 AM
Thanks for the feedback.
Forgot to add the variables - but thought that most here would be familiar with them:
One testicle larger than the other, occasional erection, haemeroid, bung eye, runny nose at high speeds on cold days, deflector missing a plastic screw (broken off), difficulty talking about my emotions (conversation definitely out - good at grunting - especially at the penultimate moment), increasingly intolerant in my old age, tendency to fixate on specifics not taken into consideration by others, thinking about getting some ink...
and internal pieces of fairing off for access until I am happy with bike.On way home freeway between Sydney and Wollongong, the sunday harley brigade were out blocking the traffic. Herd mentality very evident - can't be separated. Once past them, very pleased to get a straight section and open up... but being sunday had to be wary of plod hiding like an ambush predator looking for the likes of me.
good riding to you all
Guy
with that new information (A) deer whistles are a must, mount on the wheel rims. (B)Tires should be filled with helium (C) insure your guardian bell has not filled with evil spirits.
Post by: Laitch on December 18, 2016, 05:54:11 AM
. . . (C) insure your guardian bell has not filled with evil spirits.:clap: So many of us seem to neglect bell maintenance.
Post by: rbm on December 18, 2016, 06:28:13 AM
Seeing that my speedo doesn't work, can someone please confirm speeds (in KM p/hr)Assuming you're in 5th gear on a standard 84 K100RT, your chart reads:
I'm guessing
2000 rpm = ?
3000 rpm = 60
4000= 80
5000 = 100
6000=?
7000 =? Curious... I know it's license meltdown time here and higher
- 2000 = 54 KPH
- 3000 = 80 KPH
- 4000= 108 KPH
- 5000 = 134 KPH
- 6000 =161 KPH
- 7000 = 189 KPH
- Redline = 211 KPH
Post by: kris on December 18, 2016, 07:44:32 AM
Good luck!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 18, 2016, 10:38:10 AM
Post by: Vespa no more on December 19, 2016, 12:37:01 AM
Didn't think it was that fast
Bike gets to 6500 quite easily.
I am quitting before the bike - traffic or fear of the unknown (police and to a lesser extent - bike recently returned to road after 8 year hiatus). 8000 will take some space and bravery.
Will print these figures out and tape them to the top of the speedo until it is fixed.
Next target is to eliminate vibrations. And while the K100 is notorious for vibrations (versus the K75), does anyone have a vibration free K100. If so - was there any secret.
Pet hate of mine - noises and vibrations on vehicles
Thanks again
Guy
Post by: Martin on December 19, 2016, 02:22:18 AM
Try this http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/vibration-fixes.shtml Do you think the vibrations are wheel, tyre related or engine gearbox related. Do the vibrations differ between different gears same revs, different road surfaces. Have you check your rims for true, have you balanced your wheels.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on December 19, 2016, 07:59:55 AM
Next target is to eliminate vibrations. And while the K100 is notorious for vibrations (versus the K75), does anyone have a vibration free K100. If so - was there any secret.Guy, I share your dislike of vibration (I run without side cases 95% of the time and have fiddled my heat shield to death). You have to be more specific in you description of vibration. Martin's guide is excellent. I came from an R60/5. It only had one "sweet spot" (wide open :bmwsmile ), so to me the K is smooth, especially when compared to operating a tractor :hehehe . That being said, a tire/wheel caused vibration is very common and drives me over the top. Start there first!
Pet hate of mine - noises and vibrations on vehicl
Post by: The Dude on December 19, 2016, 12:59:01 PM
Four cylinders,180 degrees in line,produce significant harmonics that are annoying so become tiring.Buzzy handlebars and numb hands.Inline sixes are the sweetest with no need for a ballancer shaft which a tripple in line 120 degree is helped with(half a six).The Laverdas with the 180 degree was a brute.The 120's were like the Triumph Tridents of old,quite nice.I hate the parallel 360 degree twin,I lived with mine for half a million km.(Two blue printed swapping motors and hundreds of rebuilds.)
A 90dgree V configuration produces something that is just Devine.The frequency is somewhat at what my alpha brainwave frequency is at and a trancelike state can be achieved.Then there's the glorious noise.
Electric is on its way and we may want our vibrations back so we don't have to look at the tacho to know we're thrashing it.
Rattles are disconcerting,especially if they're iregular.
Post by: Vespa no more on December 20, 2016, 07:33:29 AM
Holidays have just started so shed time is available... once the xmas shopping is done. Some car action needed (lower control arm and upper ball joints).
Waiting on some parts from motobins - including 2 manifold inlet rubbers.
Will follow Martin's suggestions. Have worked through half of the suggestions on the link. Will phone around for wheel balance...tires have VERY little use. Time to find some lead shot for the handle bars!?
Am surprised at the speeds given by Rob (thanks again) - 6500rpm is approx 170km. It felt all too easy.
Have started on K1100LT project. Cleaned around throttle bodies (unlike K100 ... cleaned up quickly), injectors flushed clean, spark plugs replaced (3 didn't have the little cap on the top, difficulty getting socket to fit onto plug). More fluids to be changed... will post progress.
Regards
Guy
Post by: Filmcamera on January 06, 2017, 09:05:36 AM
I think it came out great and the product is a breeze to use.
Here is a link in case any one else needs some.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4ASE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4ASE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 06, 2017, 10:21:18 AM
Post by: Scud on January 06, 2017, 10:22:33 AM
That case looks pretty good!
Agreed - I just put a can of that paint in my Amazon shopping cart. Thanks for the tip.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 06, 2017, 10:26:20 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 06, 2017, 10:28:14 AM
Post by: Martin on January 06, 2017, 01:08:49 PM
Just did one of my cases tragkorbs which had a couple of deep scratches. I masked off the bumper pads and badge and reflector and started with medium grade wet and dry progressing through to fine and finish off with fine cutting compound and plastic polish. I finish it off with 2-3 coats of Forever Black bumper and plastic restorer followed by a couple of coats of Surf City's Black Max. I bought a virtually brand new 240V electric buffer for $5.00 at the dump recycle shop complete with buffs and pads which helped in the final stages.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 06, 2017, 02:01:05 PM
Post by: Martin on January 06, 2017, 02:22:18 PM
Rustoleum satin black works well matching OEM finish on engine parts. And the Rustoleum bed liner is holding up well on my belly pan. I'm sounding like I'm working for Rustoleum, I wonder if they pay commissions. :hehehe
Regards OZ Martin #1.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 06, 2017, 03:11:57 PM
Post by: Martin on January 06, 2017, 03:20:02 PM
A soft brush seems to be all that's required along with car wash. Although the super long bucket flap is definitely helping.
Regards OZ Martin #1.
Post by: F14CRAZY on January 07, 2017, 09:04:40 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 07, 2017, 09:27:04 AM
Post by: Farmrjohn on January 07, 2017, 12:08:10 PM
Post by: Chaos on January 07, 2017, 01:07:23 PM
I added a Laminer Lip.
Can't count the number of windscreen, handlebar, barbacks, helmets deflector lips and microswirl combinations I've had until I found a combination that I'm satisfied with. so many variables.....
Post by: RobP on January 07, 2017, 09:46:00 PM
- New Shinko 712s
- New brake pads
- Installed BMW OEM heated grip retrofit kit
- Added LED running lights
Post by: Martin on January 07, 2017, 10:46:36 PM
F14Crazy if you want to just keep them black you can get them ultra shiny by sanding, buffing and polishing. An electric buffer does come in handy saves a lot of elbow grease.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Nine80seven on January 12, 2017, 01:29:22 PM
From BMW dealer, seated?, 171 bucks. In various places across web, around thirty bucks? Some made in India and some wherever. Better from Germany, or do they all come from China?
Numbers, when cross referencing BMW part numbers, actual part numbers, all indicating 14V, if it fits use it?
I realize I'm on my own here, just looking for a more electrically advanced opinion than my own inclination to plug and play and save 140 bucks. Thanx.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 12, 2017, 01:54:01 PM
Regulators do not wear out. They smoke out when they get hit with more load than they can handle. That 50A will be loafing along if you are still running all the stuff you ran with the 32A. With the conversion to LED's, lighting, which is usually the largest load, alternator loads are getting smaller, not bigger.
Post by: Nine80seven on January 12, 2017, 09:29:11 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on January 15, 2017, 02:39:35 AM
Rustoleum satin black works well matching OEM finish on engine parts.Agreed. I used the same paint for the cylinders on my BSA.
Post by: Supershooter on January 15, 2017, 07:37:16 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Nine80seven on January 18, 2017, 04:58:40 PM
Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals? I don't know, thought you just removed nut, pried out input seal, install, and big seal goes in after whatever. Calls service back says bearings were alright. How do you argue with service. It's a spare, but my other unit spun, you know, whir, spun. This one now if put on the brake disc and give it a turn the brake disc just goes round on the bench. Why does trying to do some simple thing get so complicated. Just thought it would be nice to have a spare ready to go, should have left it alone. Looking for opinion only. Someone who's been in there.
Post by: Laitch on January 18, 2017, 05:18:50 PM
Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals? Looking for opinion only.Here are some opinions. Yes, innards can always be disturbed when doing any procedure. Check that it has oil in it. Install it on the bike with the correct oil level in it and let the engine slowly spin it a little. That should limber it up. Then put the other drive back on there.
Everything will be all right. You'll see. If everything isn't all right, you'll see that, too. :yes
Post by: Nine80seven on January 18, 2017, 05:33:01 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 18, 2017, 06:02:41 PM
Thanx, I called the dealer mechanic and service manger said the seals may make it tight to turn since they're new?. . . I assume . . ..Did the dealer say that or didn't he? What's the question mark about? Don't make assumptions. The whole point of installing it and having the engine turn it slowly is to limber it up. You are creating drama in an ordinary situation by overanalyzing it, which is your right, of course.
:riding:
Post by: DavidATL on January 18, 2017, 07:13:19 PM
Took spare FD '85K100 to dealer to replace old input/output seals, no biggie. Came off running bike, spun nice. Picked up today, while cleaning it gave it a spin, could hardly make it spin. Put bake disc on, turned it, could feel it binding, unless my imagination has gone bonkers.
Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals? ...
I believe that replacing the output seal requires close to full disassembly of final drive including removal of the ring gear (ref Haynes) The input looks to be easier but still requires heating the assembly.
During a spline lube on my new-to-me K75, I noted that the FD input seal was weeping a tiny bit. After reading this:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7029.0
I decided to just keep an watchful eye on it.
Post by: Nine80seven on January 19, 2017, 10:45:33 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 19, 2017, 11:18:41 AM
Question mark was for, can two new seals turn so hard as to be almost forced? Had my other one serviced the same way, spun just fine after and rides just fine.Yes, but wouldn't be difficult for 90 horses to spin it. It's appropriate to take it back to the service personnel if you don't believe what they are telling you, you are going by your experience with a different FD, and you don't want to check it yourself by installing it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 19, 2017, 11:23:54 AM
First I removed the grip by rolling it back as far as possible, putting a couple drops of liquid soap for lube, twisting the grip a bit to move the soap around, and then pushing from the inner end.
Turns out the insulation was worn off the wire from rubbing on the end of the bar. I fixed things by putting some electrical tape on the wire(will be getting some Plasti-Dip for a permanent repair) and sliding the whole throttle about a quarter inch out on the bars to get the wires away from the end of the bar.
When I reinstalled the grip I noticed that there is a slot on the inside where the wire goes through the plug on the inside of the grip. If the wire isn't in the slot, it is going to be pushed against the end of the bar so that twisting the throttle wears the insulation of to allow the wire to short out to the handlebar.
Getting the slot installed in the right spot isn't hard. There was a fine line(technically, a mold parting line) on the outside of the grip that lines up with the slot. Aligning that line with the row of bumps on the heater and sliding the grip on got things together properly. Pushing on the end of the grip with one hand while guiding with the other got the grip on easily without having to use any lube.
Tested after reassembly, problem solved, next up is to replace the leaky rear master cylinder.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 19, 2017, 09:12:50 PM
Post by: Chaos on January 22, 2017, 12:31:33 AM
Post by: Nine80seven on January 26, 2017, 01:03:15 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 26, 2017, 03:09:49 PM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWCTMP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWCTMP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Not sure how well it shows in the photos but the parts look great. They have gone from a bleached grey to a nice black lustre.
Post by: jakgieger on January 26, 2017, 05:33:16 PM
Used some Trim Coat from Detail King
Does this product leave a residue that attracts a dust coat??
Post by: Filmcamera on January 26, 2017, 05:40:08 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 26, 2017, 05:48:36 PM
Update on tight FD. BMW mechanic was really nice guy. Fixed it to spec, good to go. Hat tip too good technicians.Consider posting the location and name of the mechanic or outfit that performed this repair in the Dealers ~ Independent Wrenchers (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/board,49.0.html) section so others might benefit from your experience.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 27, 2017, 11:13:55 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 27, 2017, 11:20:36 AM
It is now 24 hours since I put the trim coat on and it is dry as a bone and doe snot have any kind of 'wet look' feel.I'm surprised. Doe snot should feel wet.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 27, 2017, 11:30:33 AM
Post by: Martin on January 27, 2017, 03:15:24 PM
Jack try a product from a company called Surf City they have a plastic protectant restorer called Black Max. Non greasy, restores plastic to a point as long as it is not too far gone. It lasts 2-3 weeks as semi glossy then flattens out a bit, but it is not really waterproof and rain marks show up.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on January 27, 2017, 06:49:50 PM
Post by: Martin on January 27, 2017, 07:34:44 PM
Jack let me know what you think of it. It's hard to get in QLD I have only found one shop that stocks it, the same shop also sells it on Ebay. I've tried heaps of products, it is the best so far. Some of the products I have had recommended to me by the forum, I've found can't be bought in OZ or extremely dear if you try to get them from the US.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Snowman on January 30, 2017, 08:16:40 PM
Ordered a Seth Laam seat
Sent my forks to Race Tech for their best rebuild.
I had my k1100LT for sale but it is worth a lot more to me than what someone else would pay for it. So, I have the Goldwing for when the Mrs wants to come along and the LT will be my rally bike.
Post by: jakgieger on February 02, 2017, 06:33:13 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 02, 2017, 06:59:39 PM
Painted a "new" three spoke front wheel for my RT, and swapped the front tire from the old wheel to the new.
Made an interesting discovery. I always thought that the heavy spot on the wheel was at the valve stem, and that is where you put the tire's balance mark. There have been a few tires that were a pain in the butt to balance. On a whim, I checked the wheel without the tire. Surprise! The heavy spot is 90 degrees from the valve stem.
Checked to front brake rotors and they were just barely in spec, so I installed my spare set after cleaning and painting them.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 02, 2017, 07:32:39 PM
The hinges came of with a battle. They were packed with 22 years and 80K miles of dirt and grit that kept them from sliding off. First thing was to clean the cases with S-100 which is my favorite stuff for detailing parts. The latches have always been really hard to open for as long as I have had the bike so I concentrated on getting them as clean as possible. Shot them with the S-100 twice and worked it in with a chip brush. The amount of dirt that came out was stunning. By the second rinse they were working as smooth as silk.
The lids were pretty nasty, with stains and a lot of fine scratches. I washed them and did a wipe down with PrepsAll followed by a good scrub with a grey Scotch-Brite pad. Paint schedule was Adhesion Promoter, followed by two light coats of black engine enamel, followed by three coats of Dupli-Color matte clear coat for wheels.
I didn't get real carried away with filling the scratches since I figure it won't be long before they have more, and I was too lazy to deal with the texture of the lid. The matte finish should hide a lot of the damage, and what still shows just adds character. The bike does have 80,000 miles, after all.
Last thing I did was get rid of the stretched out elastic straps inside the cases. I don't use them since I got tragkorb liners, and they just got in the way.
A final shot of dry silicone in the latches and they are ready to go back on the bike.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 02, 2017, 07:58:40 PM
Post by: Motorhobo on February 03, 2017, 06:20:26 AM
Post by: Motorhobo on February 03, 2017, 06:22:44 AM
Used some Trim Coat from Detail King to clean up the very sun faded plastic bits around the dash etc
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWCTMP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWCTMP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Not sure how well it shows in the photos but the parts look great. They have gone from a bleached grey to a nice black lustre.
That sure looks a lot better than the OTC plastic 'restorer' I've tried. Let us know how it looks in three months. You pulled the dash all the way off just to do that? I'm impressed.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 03, 2017, 09:30:20 AM
Then it's on to my "new" city cases.
Post by: bizzaro on February 03, 2017, 11:13:41 PM
I have been suspicious of the valve stem being the heavy part of the rim. I would think they would be balanced at the factory, but who knows. Glad to hear you checked yours, and confirmed , that it is not always true. I intend to check my rims form now on whenever I change a tire. The less counterweight you need the better I think.
Bizz
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 03, 2017, 11:56:15 PM
I think I also saved some time since I was able to get the tire balanced perfectly in under 5 minutes. Normally, I spend about 10-15 minutes balancing.
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on February 11, 2017, 05:49:57 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/fVVhbav.jpg)
Post by: Martin on February 11, 2017, 09:51:20 PM
Nice sign. I don't think I would have trouble with constipation if I came face to face with one of your bears. :mbird :hehehe
Regards Martin
Post by: Vespa no more on February 12, 2017, 05:07:39 AM
Well, when camping in the Rockies and Canada, those nighttime noises can get concerning - especially in "Bear Country". I made sure that the food was locked up, we left no scraps and that the family were sure to spit toothpaste into the embers of the fire. With the rest of the family snoring contentedly and me awake listening to some (not too distant) noise, a summer tent (and denial) was all I had for protection.
Been phaffing around with project #2 ... no real joy yet...ie. ignition
Question time: Re K1100LT 1993.
1) Wait for it.... Not starting: battery (newish, 12.75V), fuses (checked and connections cleaned (not DEOXIT - some auto electrical connection cleaner), relays cleaned and checked (switch circuit clicking in each relay, and all make the horn work when substituted, good earth lead (cleaned), new plugs, injectors serviced. Can't hear the fuel pump whining - although removed this and checked with 12V (spun like it should). Now... when testing the fuel tank plug (4 wires: 2 to fuel level sender and two to fuel pump) am I sticking multimeter probes / pins into the plug to determine 12V at this point (to fuel pump can't remember the colours but do have the right ones) OR am I putting red probe into each (female) plug and black to earth on bike? Will ashamedly confess - bit of a novice with this elementary stuff. Question 2 below will reveal that I have the return fuel line (from pressure regulator) disconnected for now - but this should not be an issue I think.
2) replacing fuel line from fuel rail to fuel pressure regulator and then back to tank is errr... problematic. Before I try to start it up I want to flush bad fuel from all the lines. Obviously there is a bit more plumbing than on my K100RT 1984. Tried to remove the air filter assembly but top section is giving me the arse - the crankcase ventilation hose clamp (as it comes out of the top of the motor) is nigh on impossible to get to (even after I drilled a hole in the bottom of the relay box to get a screwdriver onto it. So learned friends... what's the trick? I want to get a dremel to the fuel hose clamps at the pressure regulator but can't create space by removing the air filter upper
3) Oh and another one... put 3.75 litres of engine oil (drained filter) in (as per Clymer) but no oil visible in the oil level glass on side of motor (bike on flat surface). This is an ex-police bike. I could keep adding more but wanted to check if something could be blocking the oil rising or if police bikes might have bigger sumps??
Thanks for any help
Regards
Guy
Post by: Scud on February 12, 2017, 08:52:12 AM
I "installed" my new tank bag ($79 from Cycle Gear) and rode it the furthest yet. 250 miles!
(http://i.imgur.com/fVVhbav.jpg)
Do bears get constipated in the woods?
If they take Bearlax, can they shit a brick?
Post by: jakgieger on February 12, 2017, 08:58:40 AM
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on February 12, 2017, 09:03:00 AM
Nice sign. I don't think I would have trouble with constipation if I came face to face with one of your bears. :mbird :hehehe
Hey Martin - pretty sure everything down your way is trying to kill you. Snakes, spiders, and kamikaze Kangaroos!
Do bears get constipated in the woods?
If they take Bearlax, can they shit a brick?
These are the important questions we need to be asking! :bmwsmile [size=78%] [/size]
Post by: DavidATL on February 12, 2017, 10:21:00 AM
Do bears get constipated in the woods?
If they take Bearlax, can they shit a brick?
Motolax would work better
Post by: Martin on February 12, 2017, 02:46:46 PM
Idonthaveaclue you forgot the sharks, crocs, sea snakes, jelly fish, cone shells, stone fish, blue ringed octopi, emus, cassowaries, stoned zombie koalas but I do feel safe. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 12, 2017, 03:53:58 PM
Post by: RobP on February 14, 2017, 09:18:33 AM
Quote
Replaced the $255 POS BMW master cylinder with a $9 one
What master did you use? Is there a related thread to this?
Post by: Snowman on February 14, 2017, 09:54:28 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 14, 2017, 10:10:03 AM
Replaced the $255 POS BMW master cylinder with a $9 one that works a helluva lot better. :riding:He is replacing the OEM rear master cylinder. His description of the process is embedded within another thread. His descriptive posts start here. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.msg77288.html#msg77288)
What master did you use? Is there a related thread to this?
Post by: RobP on February 14, 2017, 11:39:25 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 16, 2017, 03:47:53 PM
Three pages of maintenance, repair, and upgrades on three bikes done! All I need now is some salt free highway.
Post by: Snowman on February 17, 2017, 03:42:31 PM
I have had their suspension on my hill climb car for 10 years. http://www.ramshox.com/
(http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag268/bradshawm2004/20170217_142458_zpsmgs0ol8x.jpg)
Post by: Chaos on February 17, 2017, 04:33:04 PM
Post by: Snowman on February 17, 2017, 04:56:04 PM
Post by: K1300S on February 17, 2017, 07:07:31 PM
Finished the last winter job today when I replaced the disintegrating under windshield trim, added a fuel gauge, and installed a switch and LED in my heated jacket controller.
Three pages of maintenance, repair, and upgrades on three bikes done! All I need now is some salt free highway.
looks like you have the same garmin car gps i do. what mount did you use?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 17, 2017, 08:58:52 PM
I start with one of those $2 mounts from eBay and cut off the ball and about a half inch of the arm it mounts to.
I drill a hole in the arm to take a sheet metal screw.
For the RT I heat up and wrap a piece of ABS sheet around the crossbar and screw the ball to it.
For my K75S I bent a strip of aluminum, screwed it to the handlebar switch pad and attached the ball to that. I have attached a photo that should give you an idea of how I did it on the S. As you can see I have to flip the GPS up to use the switches. The position of the GPS is such it does not block the speedo cluster.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2017, 01:24:17 PM
Just put my Bun Burner Gold tag on Ilsa's license plate. Not too bad for a geezer on an old bike.
Also noticed that the logo for the BBG has a K1100RS on the artwork.
Post by: Scud on February 24, 2017, 02:07:49 PM
Where and how do you knock off that kind of mileage?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2017, 02:43:37 PM
When I say these bikes like to fly I know of what I speak. Tim Tyler knows too. The K75 is a beautiful slab machine as well as nice in the twisties.
Post by: Scud on February 24, 2017, 02:57:21 PM
For me, I usually look for the twistiest route between two points. :curvy-road
But CO to NY in a day??? That's freakin' amazing... :mbird
Post by: Elipten on February 24, 2017, 03:05:34 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2017, 05:37:26 PM
By drinking minimal coffee in the weeks before, that coffee hits like a ton of bricks.
Post by: Scud on February 24, 2017, 06:21:26 PM
By drinking minimal coffee in the weeks before, that coffee hits like a ton of bricks.
,,,or 3/4 ton of bricks in the case of the K75. :hehehe
Post by: Laitch on February 24, 2017, 06:31:51 PM
Post by: White Dog on February 24, 2017, 06:58:25 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2017, 08:16:40 PM
,,,or 3/4 ton of bricks in the case of the K75. :hehehe
I stand corrected.
Post by: jaxon on February 24, 2017, 08:42:41 PM
Bummer.
Post by: Laitch on February 24, 2017, 09:30:56 PM
Seems to work intermittently. I'm off to getting some CD2 oil detergent.Keep after it with the treatment. It might take multiple treatments. Plenty of successful reports using the high detergent oil method.
In the meantime, starting it with a running jumpstart can build endurance and coordination so it's not all bad. Good luck!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2017, 09:58:56 PM
The Seafoam has pretty strong cleaning solvents in it, and the Rotella is formulated for heavy duty diesels which generate a lot of crap in the oil. Engine and starter have worked flawlessly now for over 6,000 miles.
Post by: Chaos on February 24, 2017, 10:19:26 PM
. Seems I have a sprag clutch issue. Whines, doesn't start. Seems to work intermittently. I'm off to getting some CD2 oil detergent.
Bummer.
I run some Rinsoline once a decade or so, never had a sprag clutch issue but if I do might try this. From a previous post here, drill hole in case and lube it directly, cover hole with rubber plug. Take precaution for chips getting in there but aluminum is soft so a little might not be fatal.
Post by: Supershooter on February 26, 2017, 04:37:13 PM
Supershooter
Post by: White Dog on February 26, 2017, 07:03:14 PM
I followed the excellent write up done by poster robmack back in 2014 on the K100 forum as my guide for bench testing.
Post by: Vespa no more on March 03, 2017, 06:45:09 AM
Have been distracted on a car I bought for my daughter for $450 ... Rover 75 Connoisseur...$60,000 when released 14years ago. It's so british - too british with all it's lothario faux-walnut dash.
It depreciated like the K1100LT ($21000 new) bought for $500
Am about to replace all the throttle body rubbers (top and bottom) on K100 '84.. to cure the vibrations and possible air leaks.
But one last ride
Post by: Elipten on March 03, 2017, 07:58:36 AM
I can't find a single K75 for less than $3,000.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Chaos on March 03, 2017, 08:48:41 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on March 03, 2017, 08:56:00 AM
... Rover 75 Connoisseur...Interesting ... I would have expected RHD.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 03, 2017, 09:28:47 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on March 03, 2017, 09:53:32 AM
... my other toy ...Needs a Tonka decal ... :yes
Post by: cycle thread on March 03, 2017, 06:39:14 PM
John
Post by: K1300S on March 04, 2017, 06:06:14 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20170304_1403260.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20170304_1403260.jpg.html)
replaced all three rotors with EBC's and pads with EBC HH sintered.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20170304_140300.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20170304_140300.jpg.html)
still waiting on the rebuilt pinion for the FD before back on the road.
Post by: kmev on March 04, 2017, 08:37:05 PM
got new tires....mich activs
I like those tires.
Post by: billday on March 04, 2017, 09:31:39 PM
So this is degenerating into a "wheels for my kid" thread? My daughter is off to college next fall, still needs to get more proficient with my 01 Jetta's stickshift. They grew up together ....
Just the other day my wife and I drove by the office park where I taught my stepdaughter to drive a stick. Good times . . .
Post by: Laitch on March 05, 2017, 07:23:10 AM
the results were somewhat catastrophic, at least for the other guyThose dry, clear days are hellish for traction control—at least for some drivers. :giggles
Post by: Supershooter on March 05, 2017, 10:25:36 AM
Supershooter
Post by: jakgieger on March 05, 2017, 11:00:05 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2017, 11:12:39 AM
If you have a shop do it, DON'T buy your tires on line. My experience is that if you buy the tire from them and bring the wheel to mount it, they'll usually do it for free or just a couple bucks. Bring in your own tire and you'll be paying their minimum shop fee which is usually 1/2 hour at $85-100/hour per wheel.
Post by: mw074 on March 05, 2017, 11:20:36 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2017, 11:20:56 AM
If you take just the wheels...be sure you have the orientation correct in your mind :bmwsmile . Took mine to a BMW "professional", and the front tire got mounted wrong(directional arrow on tire going backwards). Irony is that there were other k-bikes in the shop at the time so tech should have been able to look for correct orientation... :dunno
Good point. I have installed a tire backwards because I had the 4 spoke front wheel upside down. Now, I make a small arrowhead on the rim near the valve stem pointing in the rotation direction with a sharpie pen BEFORE I take the wheel off the bike. When I'm done, a quick wipe with some acetone on a paper towel takes the mark right off.
I don't trust my brain to be able to keep things straight anymore.
Post by: Bill on March 05, 2017, 11:25:56 AM
I don't trust my brain to be able to keep things straight anymore.
Sig[size=78%]n of a life well lived is a twisted mind .......[/size] :curvy-road
Post by: TrueAce on March 05, 2017, 11:31:41 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2017, 11:36:10 AM
Hmmmmm........made me check the tires on the scrambler ( recently mounted). The front tire arrow is pointed the wrong way, on a semi-knobby tire. Pray tell, what difference does it make......the tread is so uni-directional it doesn't appear different. :dunno2:
It makes your odometer run backwards which messes up all your fuel economy and maintenance interval calculations. If you reach high enough speeds you could actually be going back in time without even exceeding the speed of light.
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2017, 01:16:38 PM
If you take just the wheels...be sure you have the orientation correct in your mind :bmwsmile . Took mine to a BMW "professional", and the front tire got mounted wrong(directional arrow on tire going backwards). Irony is that there were other k-bikes in the shop at the time so tech should have been able to look for correct orientation... :dunno
yes, whether someone else does it or you do it...triple check the orientation!
i had mine done at Morton's BMW. even though the service manager had a K75S and there were a couple K's in the shop, i still checked orientation on the tires before i carried the wheels out....
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 05, 2017, 01:29:52 PM
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2017, 01:40:32 PM
I didn't notice my F-up until the ABS light informed me that the ABS ring was on the wrong side. DOH!! :mbird
LOL!!! classic.
Post by: TrueAce on March 05, 2017, 02:01:45 PM
Post by: jakgieger on March 05, 2017, 05:30:51 PM
Post by: Chaos on March 05, 2017, 06:23:42 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 05, 2017, 07:11:39 PM
Since the scrambler has no speedometer, it may have taken a while before I realized the mounting error. Just so the mismatch in direction doesnt cause the front and rear to seize up.They may swap ends though, so mark one of the tires using a paintball gun then take a picture so you can show the outcome to your fellow parishioners at the spring picnic, Brother Ace.
Post by: milq on March 05, 2017, 07:14:01 PM
Happy to say the 16 spline shaft still looks in very good shape and wasn't dry, although it was close.
Seems like my rear brake pedal has a lot of travel (as it did prior to flushing and bleeding). The caliper is clamping down, just seems like a lot of movement before it does. Is that pretty common? My KTM has very touchy brakes, so maybe it's just different.
Post by: mobydick on March 05, 2017, 08:22:07 PM
The PMW controllers for my heated jacket and pants arrived today,but still waiting on the silicon wire(china) and carbon heater strips(russia). The (chinese) microphone board and amplifier for my garmin nuvi GPS should be here in a month. Also the USB and 12 V power ports are coming shortly.
Phew that's a mouthful. Good start in a shi#@y winter.
MD
Post by: White Dog on March 07, 2017, 07:46:06 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 07, 2017, 08:00:25 PM
I installed a super bright LED headlight today to match my super bright LED driving/fog lights. No one will ever be able to use the 'sorry I didn't see you mate' excuse now!
Post by: Laitch on March 07, 2017, 08:04:11 PM
I installed a super bright LED headlight today to match my super bright LED driving/fog lights. No one will ever be able to use the 'sorry I didn't see you mate' excuse now!No one will ever be able you say, "you're not too bright" either, hopefully. :giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on March 07, 2017, 08:29:42 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 07, 2017, 11:27:50 PM
When you get a chance to run it at night you have to let us know how it works. I use some of the stuff from Super Bright LED's and have found it to be pretty good.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 07:09:00 AM
Here is a link to the bulb
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NGEN3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NGEN3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 08, 2017, 08:41:25 AM
Been looking at LED replacements, but I do a lot of riding at night in deer country and I have heard that the LED lights while super bright don't have good patterns with the OEM headlight. I want to be able to see down the road, but don't want other drivers flashing at me all the time either. My LED driving lights are TOO BRIGHT at night. The light up road signs so much that they blind me to anything beyond them. Very scary in some of the places where I know the damn deer hang around the side of the road.
Very interested in how Filmcamera's new headlight works in the dark.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 09:08:58 AM
I will let you know how the main headlight is at night - at least as soon as I can solve my front brake issues and actually ride again!
Post by: Laitch on March 08, 2017, 09:20:01 AM
I will let you know how the main headlight is at night -Please post a few photos of the high and low beam pattern down your driveway or a road, just to give us an idea of its effect.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 09:24:24 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 09:47:33 AM
However I mainly ride during the day so the bright lights are as much about being seen as seeing at night. I looked at Catz but at close to $300 as compared to less than $50 for the LED's driving lights and headlight I thought it was worth going the LED route to start with.
I am in Costa Rica - a small fairly densely populated country (at least where I live), I do not have endless unlit roads with deers to worry about, thankfully.
Cheesconsin is over three times the size of CR with a population of 5.75 million as compared to 4.8 million in CR.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 09:56:00 PM
Pic 1 just headlight
Pic 2 headlight on high beam
Pic 3 headlight plus driving lights.
I think I have the orientation of the LED wrong, switching on main beam seems to fill in underneath the light that was already there...
All photos taken at about 25 feet from the Suzuki. Also think I need to point the driving lights a little higher...
Post by: billday on March 11, 2017, 09:21:52 AM
My embarrassing hodge podge is going to be transformed to Toyota Heritage Blue with black chin spoiler, radiator shroud and fairing.
The prep is almost done, now all I need is a mild, windless day before the maple trees start their annual pollen dump. (Good luck with that -- yesterday it snowed two inches and today it's about 15 degrees Farenheit.)
Post by: technostructural on March 12, 2017, 04:10:51 PM
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/kns63a4xy6mbwkg/IMG_20170311_173443.jpg?raw=1)
Coming up next: spline lube, valve check, brake fluid flush... etc etc.
Post by: K1300S on March 12, 2017, 07:22:59 PM
Post by: technostructural on March 12, 2017, 07:31:24 PM
bridgy S11's?
Yes sir. I got a good deal on it. $89, including shipping. It's what was on there before, and I never had any issues. I know that there are other options though.
Post by: whosyurdaddy on March 12, 2017, 09:01:40 PM
Post by: Chaos on March 12, 2017, 10:31:42 PM
Post by: Bill on March 13, 2017, 08:10:59 PM
Post by: technostructural on March 14, 2017, 07:59:19 AM
Damn, I thought that tread looked familiar. Thought they stopped making Spitfires, those are a totally decent tire
As far as I know, they're still makin' em'!
Post by: kris on March 14, 2017, 09:12:41 PM
you can get your clutch plate re-lined at EuroDrive in Burlington for about $45...if memory serves. Might want to check 'em out.
Have fun....and stop crackin the throttle at 5K!!
Post by: Bill on March 15, 2017, 05:04:42 PM
[/size]
[/size][size=0px]When I get the clutch pack off I'll check the disk splines, if worn then I'll spring for a new disk. Given my low entry price on the bike a new clutch is okay. A newer bike that I would like [R1200RT] is 5 times what this one cost me so a new clutch is cheap ![/size]
[/size]
Post by: Filmcamera on March 16, 2017, 10:26:53 AM
First is low beam, second hi beam with driving lights as well
Post by: Chaos on March 16, 2017, 12:49:28 PM
Rotated the LED headlight to a different position - I think it is better. These photos taken at 50 feet from the Suzuki
How'd you do that? H4 bulb only fits in socket one way, at least all I've seen. Unless you have a different set up.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 16, 2017, 12:55:22 PM
The adaptor ring is just two prongs so you can fit the bulb in various ways.
The bulb consists of three LED filaments, two of which are lit in low beam and the third in hi beam. Originally I installed it with the low low beam lights at the bottom but it seems to work better with them at the top
Post by: Chaos on March 16, 2017, 01:21:35 PM
Post by: K1300S on March 16, 2017, 03:20:04 PM
Yes sir. I got a good deal on it. $89, including shipping. It's what was on there before, and I never had any issues. I know that there are other options though.
S11's were what i just took off my bike for the Michelins. they had 80% tread left front and rear, but were 6+ years old. no issues with them, just wanted fresher rubber.
Post by: jay1622 on March 18, 2017, 07:45:28 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 18, 2017, 02:38:31 PM
Waterproofed it with the clear vinyl that sign makers use. Hope I don't have to replace any more of these things when they get caught in the rain or snow.
Post by: Martin on March 18, 2017, 04:41:55 PM
Gryph my $100.00 Chinese GPS is still going fine and is just over 12 months old. For the price of the maps update it is probably cheaper just to replace the whole thing every 2-3 years. The only thing that is wrong with it compared to my wife's Garmin is no free map updates, no speed camera or red light camera warnings. It has weathered Qld tropical storms so far with out any complaints, and I do love it's ability to store and play music.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 18, 2017, 05:25:08 PM
I discovered that the display is not sealed around the edge of the display "sandwich" and the capillary action sucks water in and won't let it out until it's damaged the display. Putting the plastic film around the edge makes the thing pretty waterproof. This will probably be the last display I have to buy for this unit.
I put the same plastic around the joint between the front and back parts of the case and over the speaker. It's not really necessary, as the electronics are reasonably protected from water already.
Post by: Martin on March 18, 2017, 05:51:47 PM
Gryph I nearly bought a car type Garmin that my wife has with free maps and traffic reports etc. I got hers from the Good Guys ( electrical store) on special for $100.00 dollars. I was going to buy one, open it up and wire in a earphone plug and waterproof it. But for the $100.00 decided to give the Chinese one with the added benefit of music a go. I do miss slightly the traffic updates and warnings the Garmin gives but I have also been looking at the new Fodsport 5'' larger screen and a larger sun visor. Luckily I won't have to make a decision for at least another year or two. :dunno
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 18, 2017, 06:11:46 PM
Works great and gives me music etc to my Sena S20 via bluetooth, I love the real time notifications of police speed traps,,,, :riding:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 18, 2017, 07:14:54 PM
I love the real time notifications of police speed traps,,,, :riding:
I recall a few years ago when the New York State Police were anonymously calling in the locations of their speed traps on the I-90 to a local radio station. Only they were a couple miles DOWN the road from the actual ambush location.
I travel my home area enough to know where they like to ambush people, and when on the road I have learned to keep an eye on the limits when in strange territory. I still get tickets, about one every 120,000 miles, I can live with that.
Post by: technostructural on March 18, 2017, 07:25:33 PM
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohqd5yovogukrgg/IMG_20170318_191704.jpg?raw=1)
Post by: koapono on March 19, 2017, 01:40:43 PM
pictured are tune-up bits, all bought from Beemer Boneyard, reasonable cost and quickly shipped.
balancing rear wheel, used the marc parnes static balance tool, elegant in its simplicity and function.
exhaust cracks, not uncommon on earlier LT's
the LT, stripped down and ready for maintenance.
I will also lube the splines once the new tires arrive, Michelin PR3 front and PR4 rear I have had very good service, longevity and performance with that combination of tires so I'll give them another go.
I am scheduled to leave Virginia on the 22nd of April, will meet the spouse at LAX on the 28th. Plan is to zip across USA on I-40 to LA, CA and then meander. I'll post under rides and photos once that trip gets underway.
Post by: Laitch on March 19, 2017, 03:00:56 PM
Also getting the cracked exhaust tended to, been deferring that repair for a while.You might be interested in this K100 forum thread (http://www.k100-forum.com/t12119-how-the-hell-do-i-put-a-k1100-exhaust-on-and-not-have-it-crack#144874) discussing a preventive measure for exhaust joint cracking. It just involves installing a hose clamp around the exhaust pipes upstream of their welded joint with the muffler.
Post by: Glacial on March 19, 2017, 04:59:21 PM
Fitted Wilburs springs, a TFX 132 shock, a Givi tank bag and a Corbin seat.
How much of a difference to the ride have your changes made?
Post by: Laitch on March 19, 2017, 05:35:08 PM
we saw this one in 06 near whiskey bend...Look! A wilderness mullet!
Post by: Chaos on March 20, 2017, 12:30:07 PM
Post by: The Dude on March 20, 2017, 01:38:01 PM
Post by: K1300S on March 20, 2017, 01:44:48 PM
Fitted Wilburs springs, a TFX 132 shock, a Givi tank bag and a Corbin seat.soooo nice!
Post by: Snowman on March 20, 2017, 05:31:30 PM
greetings...
olympic national park = squatch
we saw this one in 06 near whiskey bend...
j o
Sorry Jo. It's my mother-in-law, always gets the tourists excited, I told her to wear a coat when she goes out but she never does.
Post by: Retread on March 23, 2017, 05:32:18 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 23, 2017, 08:13:25 PM
How many miles do you anticipate traveling daily?If you're asking me, none. I consider myself a shut-in until after mud season, except for time spent up on the mountain on skis or snowshoes. :giggles
Post by: jay1622 on March 23, 2017, 09:41:40 PM
Post by: technostructural on March 25, 2017, 10:07:57 PM
I soaked it in penetrating lubricant, and gently moved it back and forth, but it snapped off in the clamp. I took the muffler off for the spline lube job. My plan at this point is to drill it out and attempt to salvage it. I may have to tap larger threads into it and use a bigger bolt. Anyone else run into this problem? Anyone price up the part before?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/p9jkgxs2u5fiymb/IMG_20170325_191103.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/8bn615s3x2ox9y9/IMG_20170325_191428.jpg?raw=1)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 25, 2017, 11:23:40 PM
(http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/NotesParts/18211454493_1_N.jpg)
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 06:07:39 AM
Anyone else run into this problem?I always use heat first, the penetrant, then heat, then penetrant and so forth. Put the clamp in a vise, put some heat to that stub, smoke it with Liquid Wrench, let it cool for a few minutes then wind it right on our with a vice-grip. A replacement clamp is a cleaner solution but I'd rather use the money for riding fuel if possible except we've had 34 inches of snow since mid-March and it's 9ºF right now. :giggles
Post by: Martin on March 26, 2017, 06:12:11 AM
Use Copper Kote or something similar on the bolt it will save you pain next time.
Regards Martin
Post by: K1300S on March 26, 2017, 09:25:54 AM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K1300s/20170325_092259.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K1300s/20170325_092259.jpg.html)
Post by: DavidATL on March 26, 2017, 11:52:03 AM
I recently picked up the original muffler from the PO of my 75RT. I don't think the first owner (I am #3) put many miles on it before replacing it with the Staintune currently on it. See the three pictures - the OEM is in good shape.
Also picked up a new windscreen from him. Only posting a picture of the mount - the clear shield is cracked and I am debating on trying to fix or cut it down. Looks to be aftermarket. Anybody recognize this product and know the proper name?
(no, the bike is not hung from the ceiling. After uploading files of the windscreen in both orientations and both STILL displaying upside down, I am moving on to something more interesting to do .... )
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2017, 12:11:59 PM
Post by: koapono on March 27, 2017, 08:09:58 AM
Post by: Snowman on March 27, 2017, 08:26:38 AM
Post by: rtesta65 on April 01, 2017, 07:37:31 AM
Worth every penny! Never have to pull that stupid cluster out again and the lights are sooooooo much better than stock incandescent.
Also, I installed an LED strobe light (gift from friend) from SuperbrightLEDs under the license plate. So, if someone hits me at a stop light -- then they meant to!!!
Post by: K1300S on April 01, 2017, 09:39:55 PM
vroom! is started immediately and settled to smooth fast idle. SWEET! love bricks....
gonna take it for a ride tomorrow.
Post by: jimboknowsit on April 02, 2017, 09:36:40 AM
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Post by: Nine80seven on April 03, 2017, 06:15:30 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 03, 2017, 08:27:49 PM
Finally installed master negative disconnect,
watch out, I installed a disconnect and 2 weeks later my front rotor cracked!
Post by: Glacial on April 04, 2017, 01:51:52 AM
watch out, I installed a disconnect and 2 weeks later my front rotor cracked!
That spinning piece of perforated steel is a powerful electromagnetic field generator - must be interacting with the disconnect :neener:
Post by: Snowman on April 06, 2017, 04:21:49 PM
(just washed it, drops on floor are water) :2thumbup:
(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/snowmanMC/20170406_142030_zpsyigvaqrp.jpg)(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/snowmanMC/20170406_142015_zpssqhr75qk.jpg)(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/snowmanMC/20170406_142556_zpsvgpvjuh5.jpg)(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/snowmanMC/20170406_142610_zpsii4ygxfm.jpg)
Post by: Laitch on April 06, 2017, 05:46:19 PM
We are now ready to munch some more miles together hitting the Rallies.That's elegant looking. :2thumbup:
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Post by: Filmcamera on April 06, 2017, 05:49:47 PM
Post by: Elipten on April 06, 2017, 07:06:24 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 06, 2017, 07:13:47 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on April 06, 2017, 08:00:50 PM
Post by: RobP on April 06, 2017, 08:35:31 PM
Post by: Snowman on April 06, 2017, 08:58:02 PM
http://www.ramshox.com/products.html (http://www.ramshox.com/products.html)
Post by: bizzaro on April 08, 2017, 07:15:13 AM
In prepping for the riding season, I charged the battery, and took the battery to where I store my bike in the off season and installed it. I hit the start button...................................NOTHING! :mbird Key on and off again several times, lights all working. Rechecked all my connections, kill switch etc. and hit the start again, and again, and again. NOTHING! :dunno Started wondering how deep into dismantling I would have to get to the jump the starter. Then with my supernatural/voodoo mojo working, I slipped the gas tank back and wiggled the wires around a good bit? Turned the key back on. Hit the starter. BINGO......she fired right up. :clap: Then the motronic slipped down and grounded out on the battery. (I had the seat and battery cover off.) Lots of sparks and smoke! :mbird SHIT. This is happening with the gas tank resting over this electrical fire/explosion!!! :nono So I quickly turned the key off, slid the tank back up a bit, and grabbed the motronic away from the battery terminals. I managed to fry the motronic ground pigtail that goes to the negative side of the battery. So I cleaned up the wire and spliced it back together. Then I made sure the motronic was in a safe position and fired her up again. BINGO! :yes Ran like a top! :clap: Lots of smoke from the pipe for about ten minutes. You get used to that.( I think I need valve seals replaced.[do they shrink or wear out over time?Both?]) For my next trick on Sunday I will be riding it home from where it is stored at my brothers camp on the Lake Champlain. The first two miles are on a muddy, potholed,rutted, slick as all get out dirt road.................think mud season in Vermont. That is going to be one hell of a challenge. Hoping to keep the rubber side down! :2thumbup: If I was smart about it I would trailer it out of there................. :hehehe
Post by: Chaos on April 08, 2017, 09:09:35 AM
Post by: bizzaro on April 08, 2017, 09:25:07 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 08, 2017, 11:18:00 AM
Where abouts do you hang? I want to get up that way again this summer for a long weekend to do VT 100 and head up into Maine.
Post by: bizzaro on April 08, 2017, 11:49:46 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 08, 2017, 01:07:28 PM
I am in Waterville VT. Stowe, Johnson area.You're the first person I've heard put Waterville, Stowe, and Johnson in the same neighborhood, bizarro. :hehehe
Rt100 below Waterbury is in good condition all the way south. It'll be under construction north from Waterbury to Stowe this summer so is best avoided. There are lots of decent hill and mountain riding but North Central Vermont has a climate that breeds tar snakes so it's not for the faint of heart.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 08, 2017, 03:15:29 PM
Post by: bizzaro on April 08, 2017, 04:31:57 PM
Post by: bizzaro on April 09, 2017, 07:25:04 AM
See Ya in the Twisties,
Bizz
Post by: RobP on April 09, 2017, 12:32:07 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on April 13, 2017, 05:26:56 AM
Jeh Heeesus what muck.
Not back on yet but a hell of a lot cleaner.
Recommend that owners of the older bikes pay a visit one day. Bike might run a lot smoother.
Having worked on a R65 Bing carbs, I am underwhelmed by the aerodynamics of the butterfly mount in the throat of the throttle body. It could be much better.
G
Post by: jakgieger on April 13, 2017, 08:04:32 AM
I installed an Aeroflow (Tall) windscreen on my K100RS and went for a test ride. At 80mph I no longer had the deafening, high pitch wind shriek and bobble head effect that I used to have with the stock fairing. In fact I forgot to pull down the face shield on my FF helmet. A great improvement overall.
Please show pics w/side view and mounting points!!! Others are considering this :bmwsmile
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 14, 2017, 10:58:04 PM
After trying to ignore it for almost a year I decided something had to be done, so I pulled the fairing and straightened the spider. Built a jig, and after ten minutes of wailing on it with a rubber mallet I got it straight again. Reinstalled everything and went for a long ride today.
Sheer bliss.
Post by: Martin on April 15, 2017, 12:30:11 AM
:clap: Great solution nice rig.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 15, 2017, 08:44:08 AM
Post by: Vespa no more on April 15, 2017, 09:22:25 PM
At risk of asking a stupid question...
When the Fairing mount is bent, isn't there the danger of misligning by using the centre line?
The centre line on the board is aligned visually to the vee as the two legs come together. The spike aligns to the vertical line created by the square held on the line.
Or do you drill the holes (where the fairing attaches) at the same distance from the centre line and this causes the spike to be off centre - guiding the malleting into position?
Keen to get your success
Guy
Post by: The Dude on April 15, 2017, 09:38:56 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 16, 2017, 08:06:02 AM
I buy these lamps very reasonably through an RC hobby site hobbyking.com about $5/meter
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 16, 2017, 10:53:39 AM
Once the points line up, I took my 3/4" plywood base and made sure it was perfectly square between two edges that I could use as baselines.
I put a centerline on the board parallel to one of the reference edges. Then I put a line square to the centerline. Rip a 2x4 about 20" long to 2" wide. Mark a centerline on the top of the 2x4 and mark and drill 1/4" holes for the two wider mounting points on the centerline. Find the point exactly halfway between the two holes and mark it.
Place the 2x4 " the plywood base so it is on the line you made square to the centerline and the center mark on the 2x4 on the base board centerline. Drill through the holes in the 2x4 into the base board. Attach the 2x4 and the mount to the base with 1/4-20x4" bolts with fender washers on the mounting points.
With the mount attached to the base board, use the other two mounting points as drill guides to make 1/4" hloes to bolt them to the board. 1/4-20x1 1/2" bolts with fender washers bolt them down.
A piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe is almost exactly the same size as the steering head. I used a piece about 20" long, but 12-14" will work. A 2 1/8" hole saw cut a plug for the end of the pipe. A couple wraps of electrical tape made it a snug fit in the pipe. the hole saw's pilot made a perfect hole for a pencil to use as a pointer to indicate center. With the pipe cut perfectly square and the plug flush with the end attach the pipe to the mount with a hose clamp.
Use squares to project the pencil point down to the board and make a mark on the board to show where the center is. Reverse the pipe and make a mark at the other end. The marks tell you which way you need to move the pipe the get it centered over the centerline on the board.
Once the pencil point in the pipe is over the centerline on the board the center of the fairing will be in line with the centerline of the bike. In my mount the mount was tilted and pushed off to one side with my starting marks on opposite sides of the centerline almost 3/4" on one side and about 1/4" on the other. A bit of enthusiastic wailing on the sides of the steering head mount brought the centers on to the centerline and mount was ready to put back on the bike.
The only critical part is taking the time to make sure the mounting points are perfectly square to the centerline and equally spaced around it. I spent about 2 1/2 hours on the whole job, making the jig and straightening the mount. Once the jig was done the actual work on the mount took only about a half hour.
If there is interest, I can start aa thread for the lieberry with some photos and dimensions.
Post by: jakgieger on April 16, 2017, 11:45:43 AM
Post by: johnny on April 16, 2017, 07:20:29 PM
adjusted steering bearings using the copper coupling method... strung together 300mi of continous twistys... 100% yeeeehaaaa...
j o
Post by: enb54 on April 17, 2017, 10:05:18 AM
greetings...
adjusted steering bearings using the copper coupling method... strung together 300mi of continous twistys... 100% yeeeehaaaa...
j o
OK, this is probably another stupid question but I'll bite... What is the "copper coupling" method of adjusting steering bearings?
Post by: K1300S on April 17, 2017, 12:55:32 PM
4hrs of fun twistie bits resulted in blown right fork seal. have two weekends to get parts and fix before two days riding near Asheville, NC. If i don't get it fixed, will have to take the Slant-K down there.
Post by: D.Bachtel on April 17, 2017, 03:52:04 PM
That's an interesting designation for the inline opposed engine. Slant K...
Marshall, do you have any bar risers that I might be able to talk you out of?
Don in Nipomo
Post by: Lastunder on April 17, 2017, 07:47:13 PM
Post by: D.Bachtel on April 17, 2017, 08:19:51 PM
Were these 75"C"s the original Coffee Cowboy racer bikes before people rediscovered the cutting torch and grinder?
Lastunder... there's one more piece of factory plastic you can get for your rear mudguard!
Don in Nipomo
Post by: K1300S on April 17, 2017, 09:25:02 PM
No breaks for me here yet. Thank goodness or good maintenance.
That's an interesting designation for the inline opposed engine. Slant K...
Marshall, do you have any bar risers that I might be able to talk you out of?
Don in Nipomo
have also seen it as "K/". they really should have started calling them "S" bikes when they started using the transverse mounted engines instead of the longitudinal brick engines. they figured it out with the S1000's, but we are left with K12, K13 and K16's with the slant forward engine.
sorry, i had to pillage the riser kit i took off for attachment parts to put mine back to stock.
Post by: D.Bachtel on April 17, 2017, 09:31:52 PM
Don in Nipomo
Post by: RobP on April 17, 2017, 09:54:03 PM
I bought the 'Tall' version. The windscreen is held on with 4 pairs of 3M Dual Lock fastener discs on the OEM fairing risers, plus another 1" x 3" (approximate) rectangular piece below the fairing chin. The 3 lower pairs of Dual Locks were preinstalled on the shield. I fastened the top pair from a set included in the installation kit - which included a pair of 'single layer' Dual Locks, plus another pair of 'double layer' Dual Locks. I used the latter because they were thicker and helped match the contour of the Aeroflow screen to the OEM risers.
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 17, 2017, 10:08:55 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on April 17, 2017, 11:53:56 PM
I will attend to it when the bike is going back together.
Sorted the throttles and then went after the ubiquitous engine rattle.
Am relying on Theseus like copious notes and tackle boxes to guide me later when I put it all together.
So at the moment the engine in on a trolley on the floor, clutch bell-housing attached, gearbox removed for cleaning and replacement of clutch dust cover.
32 years of grot to be cleaned back. Not sure if spotless is attainable. Might just go the gasoline and wire brush look to retain some originality
Looks like a rear main seal leaking
Am about to pull the clutch etc out. Am wondering if I need clutch aligning tool (looks like a nail punch froma distance) - if I mark the position of all pieces coming off accurately.
Regards
Guy
Post by: Martin on April 18, 2017, 12:21:16 AM
You will need a clutch alignment tool you can get them from the US, UK or OZ. If you have access to a lathe the dimensions are in section 3.5 drawing 5.7c in the Haynes Manual. I have one I made if you get stuck.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Vespa no more on April 18, 2017, 06:02:19 AM
A six pack might have the metal work teacher creating one in the tech rooms. I have seen that drawing and will get a copy of it to him and see if it is on.
Spent a couple of hours in the garage... have been working on cleaning the gearbox. Pulled the swing arm and will have to get hold of a slide hammer to remove and replace the two bearings.
The gear indicator switch (next to the spline) seems to have suffered from the heat and / or 32 years and the cover have fallen to pieces. The wires are still in place below this and I was wondering does anyone have suggestions on some epoxy suitable to cover it all in eg: fibreglass, araldite etc etc and protect it. The two small 7mm bolts either side refused to accept the socket.
On the "confessions from the shed" front... got two good ones. The tray of old engine oil that I told myself would get knocked over if I didn't put it in a bottle (which I had none of) duly obliged. And the alternator slipped from my greasy hands and onto the floor cracking the brush mount = kaputski. Oh well I was planning on upgrading to the K1100 alternator at some stage (I had a perfectly good one about 2 weeks ago before I sold the whole bike - timing is everything)
Am in the process of some spare parts and looking forward to lifting the output shaft from the motor to replace the spring and bearing.
Hell, might even pay a visit to the valves (clean the seats) and also the clean any buildup above the pistons.
On this front, has anyone had success cleaning the exhaust of buildup. Took mine off and they looked rather dirty (and this was after a 6 hour ride at higher speeds). On the vespas, coked up exhausts were cleared with caustic soda and water overnight.
thanks for any input
Guy
Post by: Filmcamera on April 18, 2017, 09:43:49 AM
Post by: Martin on April 18, 2017, 02:30:11 PM
Mine has had Plasti Dip on it and heavy silicon grease on the mating surface for the last 18 years. The bolts are a pain I used a small open ender.
Regards Martin.
Post by: RobP on April 18, 2017, 04:15:09 PM
Post by: Vespa no more on April 18, 2017, 05:50:41 PM
I do have JB weld
But
Could seize this excuse to get some plasti dip. Been looking at that stuff for some time thinking of all the things I could use it on - like the cutlery!
G
Post by: The Dude on April 18, 2017, 08:04:35 PM
I do have JB weld.Perfect for this job.
My rear brake light switch has been encapsulated with that for over twenty years.Plunger runs through!
Post by: AMS155 on April 19, 2017, 02:06:09 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Dennis de Vries on April 19, 2017, 09:14:16 AM
Verstuurd vanaf mijn HUAWEI CUN-L21 met Tapatalk
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 19, 2017, 09:41:31 AM
The Corbin that came with my bike was definitely a 20 mile seat. Beautiful to look at, but tough on my taint. Yeah, my Russell and my Comfort seats look funky, but holy mackerel, I can ride them all day for days on end.
Post by: Chaos on April 19, 2017, 09:57:16 AM
Despite the horror stories about Corbins being torture planks to many,
I love my Corbin, to each butt their own, eh?
Post by: Dennis de Vries on April 19, 2017, 12:24:35 PM
Verstuurd vanaf mijn HUAWEI CUN-L21 met Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on April 19, 2017, 03:26:46 PM
Lately I've had trouble doing long distances ( lost too much natural padding)on my modified lowered and softened ( questionable) OEM seat. I can go about an hour before it gets uncomfortable, two hours with a gel seat pad. I bought another seat when I wanted to lower my seat it was good except for a split on the cover. I have now decided to try and lower, refoam and recover my OEM seat. After a lot of chasing I managed to get four different densities of foam and some marine vinyl all for $30.00. I think after trying three variations I might have found the right one, I will know in a couple of weeks when I go for a long ride with a mate. I have held back recovering the seat until I have the foam solved. I would love to try one of Jo's seat but it's a bit of a drive.
Regards Martin
Post by: Filmcamera on April 23, 2017, 11:02:16 AM
It is perfect there, the handlebars have full movement without anything touching the tank, all instruments and mirrors are clear and the phone is nicely in my field of view (I use at as a GPS when riding)
Post by: kmev on April 25, 2017, 11:06:19 PM
Post by: K1300S on April 26, 2017, 12:14:38 PM
Post by: kmev on May 02, 2017, 10:16:46 PM
Post by: whosyurdaddy on May 03, 2017, 05:31:13 AM
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 10:35:07 AM
Post by: Chaos on May 08, 2017, 11:19:33 AM
, five of the six valves needed adjustment - all exhaust valves were pretty tight, and my #1 exhaust valve only had .001" of clearance. :yow I wish I had checked the valves last year. Current mileage is 62,567 miles.
Good chance that's the first time anyone ever checked the valves. Can't remember mine every needing 1 or 2 shims, and that wasn't until I had well over 60,000. K's need adjustments so seldom it often gets put off until it's too late.
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 11:24:58 AM
Got Ken Lively's valve tools in short order, so I popped the valve cover to have a look. To my dismay, five of the six valves needed adjustment - all exhaust valves were pretty tight, and my #1 exhaust valve only had .001" of clearance. :yow I wish I had checked the valves last year. Current mileage is 62,567 miles. That #1 exhaust valve took a 2.15 mm shim to give me .012", so I still have three shims sizes before new valve seats.
Will these tools also work for the K1100? Or are they even needed for that bike? Thanks.
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 11:32:41 AM
No they will not, those tools are for 2V bikes, adjusting the valves on a 4V is a totally different thing - and honestly not something most of us mere humans can undertake - I know I would never try it anyway.
Okay, thanks!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 08, 2017, 11:43:21 AM
I don't remember what the service interval is, but 20,000 miles probably isn't bad. For most of us, that works out to every two years. Do it in the years between coolant changes. If you're not changing buckets, it's one of those maintenance jobs that doesn't cost anything to do.
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 11:45:27 AM
Although the shims on the 4 valve engines don't normally need changing it's a really good idea to check them and record the clearances from time to time just in case they do start to wear for some reason. Definitely encourages peace of mind.
I don't remember what the service interval is, but 20,000 miles probably isn't bad. For most of us, that works out to every two years. Do it in the years between coolant changes. If you're not changing buckets, it's one of those maintenance jobs that doesn't cost anything to do.
Thank you. Looking back at the maintenance history it looks like they were done at 43,000 miles and had two valves adjusted. I'm at 53K now, so I guess I'll have to get ready to check them again soon. It's a bit of a hassle to do because I have to take the sidecar frame off to do it since it bolts through the fairing, preventing me from removing it to access the valve cover.
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2017, 02:06:57 PM
I don't remember what the service interval is, but 20,000 miles probably isn't bad. For most of us, that works out to every two years.Does your maintenance history tell you whether they were intake or exhaust valves and whether they were too tight or too loose, Brick_hack?Looking back at the maintenance history it looks like they were done at 43,000 miles and had two valves adjusted. I'm at 53K now, so I guess I'll have to get ready to check them again soon.
BMW recommends 16,000 mile intervals, Chris Harris says they are unlikely to get too tight on a 16 valve engine and loose is ok, so 20,000 miles seems a reasonable interval to begin an obsession about them. You've got 10,000 miles to go until that benchmark.
:yippee:
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 02:17:51 PM
Does your maintenance history tell you whether they were intake or exhaust valves and whether they were too tight or too loose, Brick_hack?
BMW recommends 16,000 mile intervals, Chris Harris says they are unlikely to get too tight on a 16 valve engine and loose is ok, so 20,000 miles seems a reasonable interval to begin an obsession about them. You've got 10,000 miles to go until that benchmark.
:yippee:
I just sent the PO an email asking because the maintenance history doesn't state. The valves are ticking away though, so hopefully they were set loose when they were adjusted. One of these days when I'm feeling motivated, I'll remove the sidecar and frame so I can check them. That's going to suuuuuuuuck!! :musicboohoo:
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2017, 02:38:54 PM
That's going to suuuuuuuuck!! :musicboohoo:How does your rig interfere with removing the camshaft cover? I can't picture that. Anyway, if you think it will suck, it will probably suck—character building though, maybe.
Post by: Brick_hack on May 08, 2017, 02:46:59 PM
How does your rig interfere with removing the camshaft cover? I can't picture that.
I'll grab some pictures when I get home. It also makes getting to the air filter a PITA.
Post by: The Dude on May 08, 2017, 04:22:23 PM
How does your rig interfere with removing the camshaft cover? I can't picture that. Anyway, if you think it will suck, it will probably suck—character building though, maybe.I'm trying to picture this.
Best put the chair on the other side,surely. :hehehe if you drive on the right.
Am I missing something again?
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2017, 04:55:42 PM
Am I missing something again?All will be revealed in the fullness of time. :oldguy:
Post by: MIbrick on May 08, 2017, 05:34:21 PM
Post by: The Dude on May 08, 2017, 07:32:48 PM
All will be revealed in the fullness of time. :oldguy:Ahhh."Airfilter access".Yeah that would be bad,if...
I thought I'd heard of mirror image versions just then 'till the fug cleared.Oh well.
Valve inspection could be easier than you think.
Unless,of course,I am still missing ....
Post by: Laitch on May 08, 2017, 09:52:00 PM
Unless,of course,I am still missing ....It could be easier than he thinks and more difficult than we think. It might have been a faith-based project.
Post by: kmev on May 10, 2017, 07:32:08 PM
Post by: idahoblueskies on May 12, 2017, 06:47:44 PM
Post by: wayside on May 13, 2017, 11:20:06 AM
Post by: bmwpyro on May 15, 2017, 01:11:54 AM
in the last few months, cleaned, repaired, lined the tank, fixed the level sensor, replace all the gas lines, replaced filter, put in a new fan, fixed the fairing sag issue. still have a lot to the list. wish i had more time... this weekend mainly working on the fan replacement. it was a tight fit but it worked.
Thanks to all the folks here for their help and knowledge.
added another view.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 15, 2017, 08:48:31 AM
Post by: lysy40 on May 16, 2017, 03:32:58 PM
in the last few months, cleaned, repaired, lined the tank, fixed the level sensor, replace all the gas lines, replaced filter, put in a new fan, fixed the fairing sag issue. still have a lot to the list. wish i had more time... this weekend mainly working on the fan replacement. it was a tight fit but it worked.Yesterday I bought the same fan
Thanks to all the folks here for their help and knowledge.
Post by: Vespa no more on May 17, 2017, 07:20:00 AM
Have pulled the output shaft to cure "the rattle".
While in there, I will probably do front and rear (output shaft) bearings.
Unfortunately had to buy some circlip pliers before I can progress further and dismantle the shaft.
Three jaw pullers need grinding down.
Water pump impeller shaft broke. S'pose I should be thankful it went in the shed and NOT out in the boonies.
Have a parts bike ready to donate bits and pieces (assuming they are serviceable)
Anyone found a cheaper source of engine mounting rubbers (esp Australia). Motobins and motorwerks UK are out at the moment.
Does replacing 32 year old mounting rubbers really get ride of some of the vibration?
Regards
Guy
Post by: Hilltopper46 on May 19, 2017, 08:18:45 PM
- Tightened the exhaust header nuts.
- Remounted the LH engine guard - gonna need to work on that again sometime when I have the welder out.
- Troubleshooted (troubleshot?) the engine oil pressure light - needs a new switch.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 19, 2017, 11:10:51 PM
Post by: johnny on May 20, 2017, 12:06:01 PM
last week i drained the cooling system and recharged it with 40% techron on a buy 1 getts another free deal and 60% denatured water of course...
the tiors were good and the brakes were fair... butts i sprung a leak down there...
was whacking and chopping and sliding in my own techron... butts i figger the yeeeehaaaaaa would end when
the unskilled in my mirrors commence to highsiding trying to following my line late apexing the driffless and all...
so i looked up my vin... looked up my hose number 17121460266 and ordered it local... picked it up and gonna do the dirty work on this rainy day in the chee.. i did all that from following the directions at the oem parts button at the top... wow..
more later...
pin hoe leak at the thumb... busted hoe clamp upon reassembly... filled it up with 60% seafoam and 40% carbonated mineral water... now its steaming like a moe...
moving on to oil change... i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic... will end up with multi viscosity blend for continuous bumping of the rev limiter...
j o
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 03:28:06 PM
moving on to oil change... i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic... will end up with multi viscosity blend for continuous bumping of the rev limiter...Switch to lubricant-free lubricant with guarana. You'll never look back.
Post by: Vespa no more on May 20, 2017, 05:44:19 PM
:clap:
Post by: milq on May 20, 2017, 10:33:17 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 10:49:32 PM
. . . have to say that this bike (K100RT) is absolute misery to ride above 60 degrees F....my legs were absolutely cooking.The pdf in this post (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4274.msg26048.html#msg26048) and the thread itself has some suggestions for you, milq. It is in the Master List of the Repair Guidance section here, along with a lot of other useful stuff.
Post by: K1300S on May 21, 2017, 11:57:00 AM
Post by: mw074 on May 21, 2017, 12:17:23 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 21, 2017, 01:38:28 PM
i gotts 1qt sae20 conventional 1qt sae30 synthetic 1 qt sae40 conventional 1 qt sae50 synthetic..
j o
Ten, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty or more
The Bloody Red Baron was rolling out the score
Eighty men died trying to end that spree
Of the Bloody Red Baron of Germany
Post by: Supershooter on May 21, 2017, 10:28:00 PM
Sunday- filled the forks with oil, washed parts for assembly, reinstalled forks, wheel, fender, brakes. Pretty excited about completing this since it was a new self taught skill.
Tried to start the bike but the battery had lost its charge over the last two months. I hope there's not a slow draw.
Opened the master cylinder on the handle bar, the brake fluid was a chocolate color and the gaiter came out in pieces.
Eventually I'll get it road worthy
Supershooter
Post by: Supershooter on May 22, 2017, 08:48:23 AM
Saturday- worked on putting forks back together, new seals installed. Also installed a power source for a Garmin since my speedo doesn't work. Parts came in the mail(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/5ad2a3b6528a4103c619efc23d381f0f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/ce005e375a2141c1fc64f5e845fa01fa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/3389d5e480d131ec0188fd06d698515a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/32cab444b6237b6b4ee3be012ffe0e9e.jpg)
Sunday- filled the forks with oil, washed parts for assembly, reinstalled forks, wheel, fender, brakes. Pretty excited about completing this since it was a new self taught skill.
Tried to start the bike but the battery had lost its charge over the last two months. I hope there's not a slow draw.
Opened the master cylinder on the handle bar, the brake fluid was a chocolate color and the gaiter came out in pieces.
Eventually I'll get it road worthy
Supershooter
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: milq on May 23, 2017, 12:48:33 AM
The pdf in this post (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4274.msg26048.html#msg26048) and the thread itself has some suggestions for you, milq. It is in the Master List of the Repair Guidance section here, along with a lot of other useful stuff.Many thanks!
Post by: Vespa no more on May 23, 2017, 04:53:53 AM
Sharpshooter
You sure that's not sump oil in the MC?
That's the dirtiest fluid I've seen - other than NO fluid
Enjoy the victory once you have ironed out all the issues and find yourself whoofing down the road.
Interesting colour!
Regards
Guy
Post by: jj4hm on May 24, 2017, 12:55:39 PM
Post by: Martin on May 24, 2017, 01:04:19 PM
You have more chance of keeping the Bosch one healthy if you put an override switch on it and test it at least once a week. OEM fans have a tendency to seize from lack of use and/or lack of lubrication. I've had a aftermarket fully sealed one on mine for at least 18 years and occasionally exercise it, it's never missed a beat.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jj4hm on May 24, 2017, 01:41:18 PM
Post by: MIbrick on May 24, 2017, 08:39:20 PM
Final drive back on, shock re-hung, wheels mounted, everything torqued to specs. Figured I haven't ridden in four days, might as well go for a rip. It was too short at 16 or 17 miles, but I really like the way these tires feel compared to the Metzler Laser (not Lasertech, man. date of 2000) that was on the front and Lasertech (man. date of 2014) on the back.
Couple quick questions if anyone feels like answering:
1) Should I have put copper anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts and the final drive mounting bolts? It didn't look to me like there had been any on there prior ,so I didn't.
2) I put the tire pressures at 38 front and 40 rear. This was within the ranges specified in the Clymer manual (Table 2 of the Maintenance section). Is there a 'recommended' pressure for one-up riding based on the collective wisdom of this group? I found the tires to be very responsive, the ride wasn't harsh and cornering was more crisp than with the old tires.
3) WTF is the correct procedure for removing the side panels? I managed to bust the rear pin of the right one and the u-shaped hook off the left one. Thank g-d for JB Weld. I tried by pulling out at the top front where that big knob goes in to the rubber grommet, then sliding backwards. Is there a better way?
Post by: jj4hm on May 25, 2017, 04:17:06 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 04:26:01 PM
Quote
1) Should I have put copper anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts and the final drive mounting bolts? It didn't look to me like there had been any on there prior ,so I didn't.
2) I put the tire pressures at 38 front and 40 rear. This was within the ranges specified in the Clymer manual (Table 2 of the Maintenance section). Is there a 'recommended' pressure for one-up riding based on the collective wisdom of this group? I found the tires to be very responsive, the ride wasn't harsh and cornering was more crisp than with the old tires.
1) I always use copper anti seize on pretty much everything - bear in mind any torque setting is based on a lubricated fastener, a dry bolt will often fool the torque wrench into thinking it is tighter than it actually is. Brake calipers are especially important because of the heat generated by the brakes.
2) Chris Harris recommends 40 front and 44 rear, that is what I run and it seems to increase the tire life, but 38 40 should be fine, maybe go higher is you do lots of slab riding.
3) Can't help you there, I have a low seat model so no side panels...
Post by: Laitch on May 25, 2017, 05:02:36 PM
1). . . bear in mind any torque setting is based on a lubricated fastener . . .Where did you get that information?
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 05:46:19 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boh3cQkjDyQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boh3cQkjDyQ)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 25, 2017, 06:55:45 PM
Post by: Supershooter on May 25, 2017, 10:12:32 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Hilltopper46 on May 25, 2017, 10:57:47 PM
Stuffed a bunch of ukkem pukkem and schmooie into the gap between the #4 exhaust tube and the muffler to try to quiet it down a bit. It worked better than I thought it might.
Took it for a 25 miles test ride.
Post by: jaxon on May 25, 2017, 11:09:03 PM
I finally got around to the Spiegler brake lines. Turns out the front line they sent had a f10 and a banjo. The mount point is an F11. Spiegler said there were a few odd balls and sent me another line. This was a 390mm with 2 F-10's. Doesn't have the space to mount. Still wrong. Needed an F10 and F11. So that isn't on yet. "I'll send you a line with 2 F10's" He said. I says I need a F10 and a F11. "Same difference!" No, not quite. I changed the rear brake lines, which oddly enough gave this amateur little or no problem. I must have been lucky or there's a beefy air bubble that's holding on. I need to check that again.
On the other hand I ran CD2 thru the engine after I made the earlier mistake I made running a moly based oil recommended before I found this site. Really farked my sh*t up and the sprag clutch whine got me. I didn't have that issue before I used that debeels oil. So now it's worse, not even intermittent. Naturally I'm pissed. Now it's harder than hell to push start, wasn't before. When it did start the engine ran smoother after the CD2 and oil change. No more occasional whine, it's a constant. Let it run awhile and rode it around. Back to the whine.
Then I notice the headlight is on in park but not run. The tail lights don't work and both come on when I hit one of them. Dammit. I notice if I put it in gear and rock the rear wheel the headlight comes on. I recheck the ground on the right side. So why in the hell is the headlights acting weird? The grounds I can find are tighter than a whales sphincter, water tight. I've been digging thru wires all day and cleaning contacts. Can't find anything. Yeah, charged the battery with a real charger for a few hours. So I'm kinda fighting a variety of gremlins. I suspect the starter brushes are the cause of the headlight and running lights working intermittently.
I should have never put that moly crap in the engine to start with. So I notice the old BSP plug thing for the access to the sprag. Great, it's under the airbox. So is there enough space for a BSP plug? The guy that did this is running carbs on his bike. It easy access for him. I gotta pull the tank and yank the airbox out.
I started off replacing the fuel filter, rubber bits, plugs, oil and did a spline lube and now this. My F800GT is a release to the frustration I'm having with this K-Bike and might end up costing me time and money.
I had a bite on my listing and divulged I'm having a sprag clutch issue. His starter rely on his K75RT is fused. I'd be lucky at this point to have that be my only issue. Jesus, I just moved and where in the hell is my multimeter?
I did my duty replacing and doing the stuff you're supposed to do. No time to fiddle with this and ride, live and work. Still for sale. I swear I don't know how people can own and maintain more than 3 bikes. I don't have the time or patience.
I'm considering a R1200GS with the hope it's reputation will spare me and give me time to actually ride. I need one bike to do general maintenance on that takes me riding more than wrenching.
End of rant.
Post by: Martin on May 26, 2017, 12:33:30 AM
Jaxon have a look at this for sprague fix. http://k-bike-knowledge.000webhostapp.com/mechanical/sprag_clutch/starter_clutch.htm
Regards Martin.
Post by: Elipten on May 26, 2017, 08:21:37 AM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 26, 2017, 08:57:01 AM
Post by: thecableguy on May 26, 2017, 09:34:22 AM
I suspect the starter brushes are the cause of the headlight and running lights working intermittently.+1
Also a starter that doesn't spin with full power can cause the sprag clutch to not fully engage. I know because mine did... Do a starter rebuild.
Jim
Post by: jaxon on May 26, 2017, 11:34:12 AM
You have learned a valuable lesson about the moly. The sprag is sensitive to that stuff. Mine started to slip after just using a bit of moly assembly paste on the valve stems and cams when I did a valve stem seal job last year. Fortunately, a good engine flush got it all out(and probably some dirt, too) and it hasn't skipped a beat in the 6,000 miles since.
Nice James Brown avatar. One of the greats!
Yes, yes I have. Holy Moly Moly is bad. So I figure I need starter brushes. Ordered. I think I'd prefer the brushes rather that the kit, being cheap and all. Seems they are crimped down rather than screwed. Couldn't google find just a set of alternative brushes so I ordered the kit. I think this is a contributing issue as the thecableguy points out and other posts.
Post by: Laitch on May 26, 2017, 11:59:59 AM
Nice James Brown avatar. One of the greats!:hehehe
You'll be missed, jaxon, that is, if you ever get around to leaving. :giggles
Post by: Nine80seven on May 26, 2017, 12:37:24 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 26, 2017, 12:45:59 PM
Always thought that applying lube to threads after first disassembly reduced the torque needed? Any torque experts out there?There a boatloads of them out there on the Web, Nine80seven, at variance with each other and themselves. Was that thought one you've had since chidlhood?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 26, 2017, 12:53:09 PM
Nice James Brown avatar. One of the greats!
Actually it's his twin sister, Maxine Waters. While she hasn't made many waves in the music business, she is a national treasure for her unintentional comedy routines.
I no longer want to be a politically incorrect heterosexual Caucasian male so recently decided to identify as a disabled black lesbian with moderate Islamic leanings. Maxine is how I want to identify as to appearance. That my internet image looks like brother James Brown is a nice bonus. I love his music.
Post by: MCRyder on May 26, 2017, 04:19:40 PM
Got to doing the valve check on my RT today. As usual it took much more time getting the lower out of the way and getting off the valve cover than it did to do the actual check :dunno
Good news though. My RT has 39K miles and I have no record of the check ever being done, even the first one, and doubt it was ever done. But all 6 valves passed muster using Chris Harris's GO/NO-GO tutorial video. The lobe faces look great, the plugs were so-so (a bit dark) but will be swapped for new ones.
Now onto getting off the right side lower and replacing the air filter. Then new windscreen, fuel filter, S-tube, TB synch, TPS adjustment. Got a friend who'll help me do the clutch spline lube. New tires, Shinko TM 230's, are being ordered.
BTW, my '92 is now a classic at 25 years old. Just a couple years younger than my kids :yow :2thumbup:
Post by: jaxon on May 26, 2017, 10:28:33 PM
Actually it's his twin sister, Maxine Waters. While she hasn't made many waves in the music business, she is a national treasure for her unintentional comedy routines.
I no longer want to be a politically incorrect heterosexual Caucasian male so recently decided to identify as a disabled black lesbian with moderate Islamic leanings. Maxine is how I want to identify as to appearance. That my internet image looks like brother James Brown is a nice bonus. I love his music.
She's not fit to be a greeter at Wally World.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on May 27, 2017, 01:39:48 AM
New NAPA filter, tight clamps, fresh petrol, he started right up.
Months of wondering what the problem could be solved by a simple clamp.
Post by: whosyurdaddy on May 28, 2017, 06:08:21 AM
Post by: Chaos on May 28, 2017, 09:25:24 AM
New NAPA filter, tight clamps, fresh petrol, he started right up.
Your bike is male? Interesting......
Post by: whosyurdaddy on May 28, 2017, 10:32:23 AM
Your bike is male? Interesting......
Manly bike for sure
Post by: BlitzenGruv on May 28, 2017, 07:10:46 PM
Yes, I name all my vehicles as soon as an appropriate name comes to mind.
Your bike is male? Interesting......
The K bike is Gustav, my BSA is Zelda, and my Rav4 is Beauregard.
I started Gustav again today, but did not ride. I wanted to check for any codes before getting away from the garage.
It flashed a 1133 code. However, the PDF I downloaded said that this can be spurious, especially if the bike starts.
Sounds like it's running on all four cylinders. Any chance that the lower Hall-effect is flaky and will fail soon?
Post by: D.Bachtel on May 28, 2017, 10:23:42 PM
Replaced the fuel filter. Found that the exit connection from the old one was loose.
New NAPA filter, tight clamps, fresh petrol, he started right up.
Months of wondering what the problem could be solved by a simple clamp.
:2thumbup: Feels good eh?
Glad to hear it's back up and running!
Don in Nipomo
Post by: K1300S on May 28, 2017, 11:09:42 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/k75%20x2/20170528_192918.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/k75%20x2/20170528_192918.jpg.html)
Post by: D.Bachtel on May 28, 2017, 11:51:22 PM
Don in Nipomo
Post by: The Dude on May 29, 2017, 12:10:55 AM
I wouldn't tire of seeing them,even with a row of 'em going off into the distance.
Post by: K1300S on May 29, 2017, 07:01:18 AM
911 is an 87. would love to claim it as mine, but storing for a friend.
Post by: koapono on May 31, 2017, 12:39:12 PM
1) front brake light switch stopped working. I discovered this when cruise-control wouldn't return to idle after pulling in brake lever, quick stop and check of the brake light confirmed faulty switch/circuit. Rear switch worked fine.
2) heated grip on throttle side experienced a melt-down. The heat had been switched on for a long time. I was riding in rain and low temps and enjoying the toasty warmth when the right grip started to get hot then very hot then throttle became sticky and wouldn't return to idle when grip was released. Seems there was a period of excessive current draw which caused wires to melt through the plastic tube before the fuse blew. I had to remove throttle grip and then cut back the portion of melted tube until throttle would return to idle position. Throttle worked well for remainder of trip it just felt weird as 1/3 of the tube had been cut away.
3) right fork seal started leaking. I check the forks at each fuel stop, wipe them down with paper towels and check for oil. The leak was negligible but a leak none the less. I made it home before the seal failed.
I'll post each repair as I make it.
About the bike. It's a 94 1100LT, I am the 3rd owner and acquired it in March of 2015. It had 50,000 miles on it at that time. There was a pile of dealer receipts, mostly for services and tires. There was no receipts nor history of any major repairs. As far as I know all the components are the original. I went through it from stem to stern, inspecting, checking, adjusting, lubricating and tweaking. I did not replace any components other than tires, fluids, brake pads and filters. It now has 94,000 miles on it and has been a dream machine! I rode the 4-corners of USA, been x-country 2 additional times and up and down the east coast several times. All without a hiccup!
First will be the brake-light switch.
I could hear an audible click when I pressed and released brake lever so the switch was working mechanically. Access to the plug requires removal of fuel tank which is straight forward but a PITA. I installed quick-release connections on fuel lines and that really simplifies the task. After removing tank and isolating the connector, a quick check revealed a heavily oxidized plug. A thorough cleaning with contact cleaner and tiny brass brush made everything okay, continuity check across the switch verified proper function. While I had it apart I decided to clean every connector and plug I could access. It's a birds nest of wires tucked between the frame tubes but gentle pulling and pushing will grant access to just about every connector. I also removed and cleaned the ground connectors before tucking everything back in its place.
some pics:
front brake light connector, oxidized!
"The ground" you've all heard about, make it clean and shiny.
bench test switch.
the birds-nest of wires unraveled.
wires tucked in and all tidy.
contact cleaner and dielectric grease, I use a very light smear across female connector when reassembling.
Post by: herseyb on May 31, 2017, 05:10:57 PM
Ordered brake pads front and rear, realized I have never changed brake fluid on anything and don't know what I'm doing. Anybody got a youtube video on that?
Post by: alabrew on May 31, 2017, 05:38:32 PM
I attach the hose to the bleeder nipple, crack open the bleeder and pump fluid with the lever until the new fluid and no bubbles come through and then close the nipple. Works GREAT!
Post by: jj4hm on May 31, 2017, 05:58:15 PM
Post by: koapono on June 01, 2017, 06:03:03 AM
A high current draw caused the heating element (wire) to melt through the plastic tube of heated grip. I believe the wires chafed through where the wires extend through the handle-bars and make the turn into the grip. There's an insulator in place but the wire moves every time you twist the throttle. There was no tell-tale sign of arching/sparking but you could see where the heating element melted through the tube. This caused the throttle to stick and not return to idle position when let go. I had to get off the road and whittle back the plastic tube until throttle response returned.
I had a spare set of heated grips (doesn't very one!) from a parts-bike I purchased last year so repair was simple enough. Rather than remove existing wire and snake the new wire through the handle bars, down around fork-clamp and under the frame I cut and spliced replacement grip into the existing harness. I was able to pull enough of original wire through handle-bars so that the splice would be several inches back from the point where the wire exits the handle-bar end. I soldered and shrink-wrapped the splice so it should be a trouble-free repair.
some pics:
melt-through.
proper length tube compared to faulty one.
new tube installed with a bit of 5 minute epoxy to glue insulating tape in place.
heated grip connector under the tank. Left and Right grips labeled.
clean the start button while you have grip disassembled.
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2017, 07:17:31 AM
replaced heated throttle grip, see reply #2725 for the back story.Thanks for another useful repair explanation and pictorial, koapono. :clap:
I was able to pull enough of original wire through handle-bars so that the splice would be several inches back from the point where the wire exits the handle-bar end. I soldered and shrink-wrapped the splice so it should be a trouble-free repair.
some pics:
Post by: K1300S on June 01, 2017, 11:35:40 AM
Thanks for another useful repair explanation and pictorial, koapono. :clap:
yes, nice!
Post by: jaxon on June 01, 2017, 12:26:07 PM
Wife asked me what I was doing and I kinda pretended I knew and she stared at me. I stared back with the fear she may have known I was bullshitting my way through this and she may know more about this than me (unlikely but still unsure). I tried that technique with an old commanding officer and it didn't go well cause he knew it. I later found out he had a master's degree in physics and electrical engineering. Which made me wonder what the hell he was in the Army for.
Anyway...I think I put it back together right. I noticed the terminal going thru the bottom is positive and wondered exactly how that gap is going to be maintained so I tightened the crap out of it. I hope that it's centered in the hole, which by the way doesn't have hair around it and even if it did I hope the torque'n pulled it through to the center so it doesn't make contact when it shouldn't. Hope that's right. I suspect sparks would fly or something I wouldn't care for. I put a ohm meter on it and noticed numbers, and then no numbers as I spun it around. I placed $50 on black and and seem to have walked away even. But there is continuity from the terminal and the starter body.
Didn't have the motivation or tool to pull the bearing and replace it. I got lazy, but I knew this about myself. Now you do too.
Started right up. Satisfied.
Post by: MIbrick on June 01, 2017, 08:47:18 PM
I do not know if the transmission oil was ever changed. Here's what I found on the magnetic drain plug when I pulled it. Bike has 6500 miles on it, more or less. Should this concern me? It does...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/1999ranger/IMG_20170601_171757.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/1999ranger/media/IMG_20170601_171757.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/1999ranger/IMG_20170601_171751.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/1999ranger/media/IMG_20170601_171751.jpg.html)
Lastly, HUGE thanks to whoever it was that posted the suggestion in one of the many threads here to make a 'splash guard' out of aluminum foil to keep the oil off the center stand and rear tire. FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC idea!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 02, 2017, 09:05:04 AM
Post by: Laitch on June 02, 2017, 09:23:46 AM
Should this concern me? It does...The magnet is doing its job collecting particles; you're doing your job by changing the transmission oil at regular intervals. Your transmission is barely out of its infancy if that mileage you're citing applies to it. A little incontinence should be expected in this stage of its growth and development. Which would you prefer doing—disassembling the transmission looking for trouble or riding around gazing at your reflection in storefront windows or the paint of your highly polished cage?
Post by: jaxon on June 02, 2017, 09:32:57 AM
...Should this concern me? It does...
--Begin Humor--
Why the hate? The drain plug did it's job. Your lack of tolerance is troubling. My Wife's 8 year old son saw this and said "Do I have to grow up in a world where people so dislike metal shavings they'd resort to harsh condemnation and critique?"
--End Humor--
But seriously, I've ever seen a magnetic drain plug with out something stuck to it. I'd be glad it's there.
Post by: herseyb on June 02, 2017, 08:29:54 PM
Replaced rear brake pads. Couldn't get the dang caliper off so did it in place... That worked fine, spent about equal time trying to get the caliper past the wheel vs. actually replacing the pads in place.
Front sets and brake new fluid still to do, but it is getting dark under my shade tree...
Post by: Chaos on June 02, 2017, 09:55:59 PM
. Here's what I found on the magnetic drain plug when I pulled it. Bike has 6500 miles on it, more or less. Should this concern me? It does...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/1999ranger/IMG_20170601_171757.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/1999ranger/media/IMG_20170601_171757.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll30/1999ranger/IMG_20170601_171751.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/1999ranger/media/IMG_20170601_171751.jpg.html)
So long as there are no big chunks no reason for alarm. It's simply the final machining taking place. This is considered normal on my other bike with about 40k....
Post by: jakgieger on June 02, 2017, 10:47:57 PM
I do not know if the transmission oil was ever changed. Here's what I found on the magnetic drain plug when I pulled it. Bike has 6500 miles on it, more or less. Should this concern me? It does...
Chaos is right, BUT...I changed my tractor transmission/hydraulic fluid today, 12 gal capacity, 2 magnetic plugs, severe duty usage, 2yr/1000hr change interval, AND I did not have that amount of metal on my plugs. Important points here are use quality lubricants (and moly), change when machine is warm, have a usage appropriate change interval, and don't drive like an 18 yr old :hehehe :bmwsmile .
Post by: MIbrick on June 03, 2017, 08:05:07 AM
I was thinking that with the new tires mounted and the rear splines cleaned, checked, Staburag-ed and the oil and filter drained and changed and the tranny and final drive drained and changed and MolyB-ed, I'd be all set for the rest of the season.
As I was out riding last night I started wondering if maybe I should get to that new shock and fork springs before fall, and maybe stainless lines would firm up and improve braking, but maybe some of those EDC floater discs and some new pads would be good, too, and I really should take the time to mount that low seat and all the bits...
Post by: idahoblueskies on June 04, 2017, 05:09:46 PM
Post by: Supershooter on June 04, 2017, 09:14:24 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Martin on June 04, 2017, 10:26:26 PM
I've finally had enough of being stuck in traffic so today I fitted my RTD ( Rapid Transit Device). It works like a ripper, parts traffic like you wouldn't believe. I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. Device bought at the local recycle (Dump) for the astonishing price of $10.00 a set of steak knives was not included, I am looking for agents.
Regards a very rapid Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on June 04, 2017, 11:15:24 PM
Post by: Martin on June 04, 2017, 11:22:01 PM
Jack I'm wiring it to a flasher can and getting it a blue cover. Also going to wire my 140 Db air horn to the flasher can.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on June 04, 2017, 11:27:41 PM
Post by: Martin on June 05, 2017, 01:05:03 AM
The fastest thing the cops have here are Suzuki Hyabusas no match for a good Brick. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin ( alias The Bandit)
Post by: The Dude on June 05, 2017, 01:51:19 AM
A big thank you light in red at the rear.
I get the guilts every now n then.So lucky.
Post by: Vespa no more on June 05, 2017, 07:25:29 AM
Are these legal?
There is another device(s) but I'm not sure what we've got in Australia.
https://www.wired.com/2005/08/traffic-hackers-hit-red-light/
https://mods-n-hacks.gadgethacks.com/how-to/trigger-traffic-lights-change-from-red-green-78256/
Can't you just go up the inside and get to the front of the lane?
Still, something else to put on the bricks
Guy
Post by: Laitch on June 05, 2017, 08:39:45 AM
Jack I'm wiring it to a flasher can and getting it a blue cover. Also going to wire my 140 Db air horn to the flasher can.A headlight modulator will enhance the whole array, too. If you can't find a decent siren from Alibaba, try using a slide whistle held by wire on the handlebar and played by means of a flex-straw crammed into one of your helmet's front ventilation ports while the cruise-control is activated. It's easy enough with an Arai.
I hope you won't be so self-centered in your newfound easy riding that you won't take some time to sternly lecture mobile phone users. Think of the rest of us! Keep up the good work!
Post by: Martin on June 05, 2017, 02:49:19 PM
Geez Laitch your not just a pretty face, I'll order a siren. Although a mate has a couple that he got from the recycle (Dump). One was US made really loud off a fire engine. I wonder if I could also give out on the spot fines for anti motorcycle behavior, it would supplement my income. Thanks VNM I don't think they are applicable in QLD I'll look into it. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin (alias the Night Rider).
Post by: whosyurdaddy on June 06, 2017, 07:35:40 PM
Post by: Chaos on June 06, 2017, 10:01:11 PM
Post by: The Dude on June 07, 2017, 01:34:37 AM
With all the "legal"aspects covered this could be passed off as innocently helping yourself.Some adjustments at road worthy compliance time to keep the questions to a minimum is likely needed.
It would be good if the lights made a lot of noise,too.
I know that works really well using the Guzzi's throttle(with a skyward lurch of the front wheel) it does scatter them more than part but Moses would still be impressed.
Post by: kryder on June 07, 2017, 10:22:13 AM
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 07, 2017, 07:03:20 PM
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 07, 2017, 07:07:56 PM
Of course, this meant that I had to remove the bracket repaired in the previous post.
Post by: riots100 on June 08, 2017, 12:04:35 AM
So I rigged up a board with holes in it to jig it for the welder.
What is the hole diameter and spacing for this exhaust jig you made?
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 08, 2017, 06:28:38 PM
What is the hole diameter and spacing for this exhaust jig you made?
From memory, the hole diameter is 1.524 inches and the spacing is between 2-15/16 and 2-31/32 apart. The exhaust is at the welder now so cannot remeasure.
I highly recommend you make your own measurements when you remove your exhaust.
The welder was complimentary of the jig.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 08, 2017, 07:28:12 PM
Post by: K1300S on June 08, 2017, 09:47:53 PM
For no real reason, acquired another K75s. Twin to the one I already had.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/k75%20x2/20170528_192918.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/k75%20x2/20170528_192918.jpg.html)
started the refresh on the "Evil Twin".
replaced FD fluid, trans fluid, engine oil, fork oil, brake fluid, brake pads, etc.
found the bike had a fresh progressive 465 rear shock and progressive springs up front. :-)
replacing fuel hoses this weekend. might be taking it to a track day in two weeks....
and thanks to Johnny...now have a spacer for rear wheel.
Post by: know_fear on June 09, 2017, 11:43:24 AM
It's so nice I'm afraid to get it out for a ride!
Post by: K1300S on June 09, 2017, 12:45:46 PM
so nice it DESERVES to go out for a ride...
Post by: MCRyder on June 13, 2017, 08:32:28 PM
Any comments on fork fluid viscosity? Been a long time since I've done a K75 fork. The former owner told me PS fork springs were installed. But it doesn't feel like it compared to my other 75's with PS springs. No big deal, a firmer feeling oil weight will do.
Post by: K1300S on June 13, 2017, 08:48:20 PM
Both lowers are back on. I forgot what a bit of a pain it was to get the rear/right fastener clip back on the air box. About to order the Clearview shield. The work's down to a clutch spline lube, TB synch, and fluids. Still haven't decided if I want to replace the odomer and trip meter cogs myself or farm it out. $85 if I do, $200 for the shop's work. The Top of the Rockies rally isn't for another month, so time is on my side.
Any comments on fork fluid viscosity? Been a long time since I've done a K75 fork. The former owner told me PS fork springs were installed. But it doesn't feel like it compared to my other 75's with PS springs. No big deal, a firmer feeling oil weight will do.
i use honda 10w fork oil. works well with the PS in one K75s and the Racetek springs in the other K75s. key is to use the right amount. it does not take very much less than spec to make the front feel really soft.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 13, 2017, 09:23:50 PM
Post by: The Dude on June 14, 2017, 01:00:03 AM
Reintroducing an old shim,probably( must have been or a mates old one) from an exhaust valve and moving two original shims got all three inlets at a loose 6 thou"(7 thou) will get two 2.45 mm and one 2.40 mm shims to get my 8 thou gaps back and continue my milage towards my million Kms.yeha.Got to be good fuel to preserve the valves this far.The exhausts have been 12thou for decades.
Plugs are about 15 years old now and looking bloody good at the business end.The little screw ons are corroded badly and new ones are part of my discounting these from my inquiries.
I am doing a purge of niggles,suspects and peace of mind inquests into why she woke up reluctant to run sweetly a few weeks back.I am relishing the situation as I slowly get my act together.The old girl is demanding my critical attention after all these years.I owe her this time.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 17, 2017, 06:45:39 PM
Then I took it into town to run errands and fill with gas. I thought I was noticing some hesitation on the last ride or two that I took before I removed the exhaust system. Then today it was really bad - it seems to be heat related. It runs fine for the first 5 miles or so, then begins to surge. It seems worse on partial throttle.
I brought it home and removed the tank (that was easy) and pulled apart all the electrical connectors I could find and sprayed cleaner in them and replugged them back together and then put a new NAPA Gold 3032 fuel filter on it. No joy - after 5 miles it started surging and actually died at a stop sign.
I think the next thing I will do is replace the rubber bits on/near the throttle bodies. I'm frustrated, but quite thankful for this resource.
Post by: MIbrick on June 17, 2017, 11:17:59 PM
Edit: Anyone know if a locksmith can re-key the seat lock to work with my original ignition key? Not super happy about having a separate key for the seat.
Post by: riots100 on June 17, 2017, 11:34:19 PM
I thought I was noticing some hesitation on the last ride or two that I took before I removed the exhaust system. Then today it was really bad - it seems to be heat related. It runs fine for the first 5 miles or so, then begins to surge. It seems worse on partial throttle.
I had something similar happen about a year ago. It would happen on hot days, after riding the bike for a while. I found that the fuel was probably boiling in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel rail. That particular line comes very close to one of the main radiator hoses, which can get hot. I had replaced the old fuel line with some generic, fuel injected rated fuel hose from the auto supply store. The generic fuel hose did not have the pre-formed bends like the stock one does and as a result it came much closer to that hot radiator hose. I wrapped it in heat tape and tied back the hose with a zip tie.
Just like that, the problem went away. I ordered the pre-formed, stock line and replaced the generic. Problem has yet to reappear.
Post by: Martin on June 17, 2017, 11:52:29 PM
With a low fuel level and running in traffic in QLD summers I had vaporization problems. I partially fixed the problem with reflective insulation under the tank. I think a full fix will come if I insulate the fuel lines behind the air box. A fuel cooler can also be fitted as per TMG.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 18, 2017, 08:32:30 AM
I had something similar happen about a year ago. It would happen on hot days, after riding the bike for a while. I found that the fuel was probably boiling in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel rail.
With a low fuel level and running in traffic in QLD summers I had vaporization problems. I partially fixed the problem with reflective insulation under the tank. I think a full fix will come if I insulate the fuel lines behind the air box. A fuel cooler can also be fitted as per TMG.
Regards Martin.
Thank you for these replies - the PO has moved the fuel filter from inside the tank to the fuel line that runs down to the rail. I noticed yesterday that the entire tank was quite warm after a very short ride (about 7 miles from the gas station, to the post office, then the hardware store and then to home) and wondered if something could be warming the fuel. I'm thinking the metal filter allows a lot of heat transfer into the fuel as it passes through, and as I understand it, recirculates to the tank.
I'll insulate the filter and ride it to see what that does for me.
Post by: Laitch on June 18, 2017, 09:22:25 AM
I'll insulate the filter and ride it to see what that does for me.Consider restoring the fuel filter to its original location in the tank. That's where it belongs. Gryph's fuel cooler type and installation is a proven and effective way to deal with fuel cooling concerns.
Post by: riots100 on June 18, 2017, 12:52:36 PM
Post by: Martin on June 18, 2017, 03:43:27 PM
If I know I'm going to be in heavy traffic in summer I fill my tank. With a full tank and the under tank insulation I get no vaporization. With under half a tank I still get vaporization, I think insulating the hoses behind the air box will further help. I will eventually do this, if this doesn't cure it entirely I might try a fuel cooler, but there is not a lot of room on a K75s with a belly pan.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on June 18, 2017, 04:05:20 PM
Consider restoring the fuel filter to its original location in the tank. That's where it belongs. Gryph's fuel cooler type and installation is a proven and effective way to deal with fuel cooling concerns.
+1 on restoring the fuel system to stock. Anything else, you are treating the symptoms rather that working towards the cure.
Ultimately, yes, this is my intention - I thought perhaps riding it with the filter insulated could help narrow down whether or not this is the issue. Thanks for the input. It isn't as warm here to day, I think I'll try riding it again this afternoon.
Post by: Supershooter on June 18, 2017, 09:45:21 PM
Supershooter
Post by: whosyurdaddy on June 19, 2017, 11:53:05 AM
Post by: Martin on June 19, 2017, 04:49:16 PM
Supershooter check that the cable is allowing it to return to the stop. Try running a couple of bottles of Techron 1/2 a bottle to a full tank.
Regards Martin.
Post by: K1300S on June 19, 2017, 04:53:11 PM
Replaced fuel lines. Then rode 17 miles to get fuel, almost ran out on the way there. Thankfully since this was the second maiden voyage, my family was following me. The first ended with the bike spraying fuel. So I've now ridden 40 miles on my own BMW. The bike seemed to not run at its full potential, and the idle revved up to 1800 rpm and didn't want to slow down, I'm not sure where to start, but I'll start somewhere when I get some more free time.
Supershooter
start with a complete tune up per the manual. valve check, tb balance, idle set, fast idle set, throttle switch set, throttle cable adjust, mixture adjust, air leak check (z-hose and tb boots).
if you don't do all that to baseline the tune, you will be chasing symptoms all over.
Post by: krobert on June 27, 2017, 08:16:44 AM
Post by: Martin on June 27, 2017, 03:58:47 PM
Try Ebay I scored a 6" LED one for $17.00 Au a few years ago. Seller was auctioning multiple lights ongoing, I kept on placing $20.00 dollar bids on every light that came up. Most were going for $60- $100 but to my surprise I nailed one for $17.00.
Regards Martin.
Post by: krobert on June 27, 2017, 05:05:54 PM
Try Ebay I scored a 6" LED one for $17.00 Au a few years ago. Seller was auctioning multiple lights ongoing, I kept on placing $20.00 dollar bids on every light that came up. Most were going for $60- $100 but to my surprise I nailed one for $17.00.
Regards Martin.
Does that work well for you at night? Great picture.
Post by: Martin on June 27, 2017, 05:26:57 PM
Robert at the time you could choose from a spotlight or a flood light. I actually chose a flood light as I wanted a daytime nighttime running light.
As a running light it works well a lot less of car pulling out on you cutting you off. At night it illuminate more to the side and I do like it. however for forward vision a spotlight type would have been better.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-6-18W-LED-Work-Flood-Beam-Lights-Bar-Tractor-OffRoad-Driving-SUV-Jeep-Lamp-/222553739107? (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-6-18W-LED-Work-Flood-Beam-Lights-Bar-Tractor-OffRoad-Driving-SUV-Jeep-Lamp-/222553739107?)
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on June 29, 2017, 11:37:45 AM
Went to leave at midnight for my weekly campout Dump Day meet up. So as not to disturb the Honourable Minister for Finance Recreation and Music I normally roll out of the garage then hit the starter after I passed a couple of houses. But today no start, just manage to clutch start before I hit the corner and the roundabout. Once started headlight is not working so I turn on the LED running light, go for a bit of a drive headlight is intermittent, indicators also flakey. It's a typical cold winters night 15C and raining, there is a few long gradual hills on the way to the Dump so I decide to head out and see if I can fix the problem. on a couple of the down hills I try a couple of starts and it behaves itself, not too sure whether it's going to keep behaving itself. Where I stop at the Dump no good slopes so I decide to find and up hill slope and do some backspins, I do about six backspins in 5th and it starts on the starter and the lights are behaving. So I head back to the Dump, three mates already there and asleep, headlight dies as I am pulling up. Find another up hill slope and do some more backspins, and the headlight is still intermittent. I give up and come home. I am now waiting for the Minister to arise so I can pull the starter, if the brushes are too far gone. I might have to go and borrow one until I can source brushes. I can't complain 160,000 K's never had the starter apart.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on June 29, 2017, 12:05:50 PM
Post by: Martin on June 29, 2017, 12:51:52 PM
Jack on Friday's and Saturdays they open the recycle yard attached to the Dump. The queueing up starts the night before (8.00pm)with cars and one motorcycle (1.00am)camping out on the side of the road. Where you are in the car queue determines your position in the final queue at the gate. At about 6.00am they open the front gate, and the vehicles move up to the second gate. I can ride between the posts here and park the Brick. While they are waiting for the second gate to open some of the guys move up to the side fence and check out the goods in the yard. At about 6.30 am they open that gate and every body else drives in and parks. They then queue up at the next gate in the order that they parked. At around 7.30am they open up the next gate and everybody moves down to the zig zag cattle shute, still in order.
At 8.00am they open the final gate and every body runs or walks to get the best junk. There is virtually anything and everything, electrical goods, bicycles, tools, car parts , motorcycle parts, mowers, furniture. I started going there a few years ago chasing Villiers parts and I now go mainly for the social side of it. There is normally a sausage sizzle after in the carpark shelter, run by a charity or one of the Men's Shed organizations. Different guys specialize in different things, bicycles , tools, mowers, petroleum, etc. Some guys are collectors some are resellers. Some times you get a bit of a clash when people try to sneak up the line, or try to steal somebody else's booty.
I don't get that much for myself I end up getting more for mates. I scored an 1981 XT 500 tank for $10.00 and sold it for $237.00 on EBay
I also scored a set of R1200 GS tragkorbs slightly damaged made about $200.00 I chase other things. I don't buy a lot unless I'm sure that I can make a reasonable profit, and you try not to go for mates specialities . Mates will sometimes give you things that you are hunting. A couple of mates actually make a living out of it .It's now 2.40am in OZ and I am waiting for the Honourable Minister to arise so I can start on the starter.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on June 29, 2017, 02:32:35 PM
Post by: The Dude on June 29, 2017, 03:32:00 PM
Hey Martin,why wait for the missus to wake up to get into you're starter?I am completely bemused.Have I been doing it wrong all these years?
Post by: Martin on June 29, 2017, 04:01:08 PM
Dude I've been happily married 42 years no use poking a sleeping bear(Koala). Fixed and running, took an hour. Considering the mileage I've still got 10mm of brush left. Commutator extremely grotty just a little bit of very light marks, cleaned up nice with fine wet and dry, bearing was fine just regreased. Rang a mate at the Dump they haven't opened the first gate and not that many queued up due to the weather. I don't feel like putting on my wet weather gear again so I am going to give it a miss.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on June 30, 2017, 01:32:49 AM
Sun came out so went to Dump day, three old bikes including a shaft drive Yamaha Virago probably a 750. School holidays so pretty packed. Didn't buy a thing, but there was a whole carton of oil filters same size as a Brick but totally round no fluting. Went on from there to Farm Fantastic at Caboolture a farm show bought a few tools and then home. Predicted to rain most of the day, never eventuated.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Michael Sydney on June 30, 2017, 05:46:18 AM
Last weekend I did a fork oil change, today I finally got my supply of Honda moly paste so dropped the final drive. To my relief the splines looked good.
The spline lube job is a cinch! Probably took little more time than properly cleaning and lubing a chain on lesser bikes:)
Post by: Martin on June 30, 2017, 04:22:37 PM
I'm glad to see you used full cream milk, never ever used skim milk on your forks. It has been known to adversely affect the handling, this can lead to both high and low speed problems. The full cream can also benefit from the addition of chocolate flavouring, never use strawberry as this turns it pink. :nono
Regards Martin.
Post by: mejetski2000 on July 03, 2017, 08:23:43 AM
Post by: Chaos on July 03, 2017, 10:52:15 AM
Post by: K1300S on July 03, 2017, 10:31:36 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=10043.new#new
Post by: MIbrick on July 04, 2017, 05:22:17 PM
Tomorrow my coolant hoses, clamps and gaskets should show up from Bob's BMW. Well, most of them, anyway. There's a story of disappointment and frustrated plans. Just need to figure out what to cap the hole previously occupied by the CA emissions vent tube in the engine case with, replace the rear brake line (Spiegler also) and get everything back together, including a new Wix air filter, alhtough the old Purolator looked fine.
If anyone feels compelled...what is the torque spec for the hex drive machine screws that clamp the front axle into the fork? There's two on each side. I discovered today that two of mine--one on each side--were loose and backed out! :mbird
Post by: rbm on July 04, 2017, 05:48:22 PM
If anyone feels compelled...what is the torque spec for the hex drive machine screws that clamp the front axle into the fork? There's two on each side. I discovered today that two of mine--one on each side--were loose and backed out! :mbird14 Nm
Post by: krobert on July 05, 2017, 07:30:38 AM
I have a couple amber running lights to install. I purchased a couple bolts to attach them to the fairing bolts but they are 1/2 inch too long. Its back to Lowe's for those.
Post by: alabrew on July 07, 2017, 05:41:55 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 07, 2017, 08:15:56 PM
Now I just have to figure out why the new front tire isn't holding air after it had been before vacation...My magical thinking manual always directs me to tighten the valve core before doing anything else in a case like this.
Post by: The Dude on July 07, 2017, 10:35:14 PM
Post by: alabrew on July 07, 2017, 10:45:16 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 08, 2017, 01:24:07 AM
I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?
Post by: Martin on July 08, 2017, 01:27:41 AM
Alabrew you could try dish washing liquid and water mix in a spray bottle.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2017, 02:08:09 AM
I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?Check out the diagram in the pdf in this post from the Repair Guidance Master List.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7996.msg58795.html#msg58795 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7996.msg58795.html#msg58795)
Post by: rbm on July 08, 2017, 04:30:09 AM
I removed the petrol tank to get to the multi-pin connectors. Douched 'em good with contact cleaner, and the thing still reports no signal from the bottom sensor. I don't care if it runs on all four, the bike ain't leaving the driveway until the computer is happy.K100 4V diagrams (http://technik.flyingbrick.de/index.php?title=K100RS_4V_-_K1).
I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?
HE sensors connections to the Motronic 2.1 ECU are:
- power to both sensors is from pin 29
- ground to both sensors and cable shield is from pin 5
- sensor 1 output is pin 8
- sensor 2 output is pin 26
Have you reset the old 1133 codes? They don't reset automatically.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 08, 2017, 06:06:26 AM
K100 4V diagrams (http://technik.flyingbrick.de/index.php?title=K100RS_4V_-_K1).Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?
Have you reset the old 1133 codes? They don't reset automatically.
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with a car.
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2017, 07:35:46 AM
Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?Warner discusses his method in the link I supplied. His method doesn't conform with your assumption.
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with a car.
Post by: K1300S on July 08, 2017, 09:20:11 AM
Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with a car.
None of the cars I know of reset themselves either. Warning light goes out, but codes are still there until reset manually.
Post by: rbm on July 08, 2017, 10:01:30 AM
In that text, it states:
Quote
NOTE: The Motronic Control Unit only displays 1 fault code at a time (4 digits) even if there are multiple faults. Once the first displayed fault has been recorded, repeat the Ignition OFF, Ignition ON and ground pin #1 for 5 seconds to display the next stored fault code.
Continue resolving faults until "4444" is displayed indicating all faults have been resolved.
NOTE: 1122 and 1133 faults can be spurious in nature. If either of these codes appear and you do NOT suspect a Hall Sensor problem, (In other words, you are NOT diagnosing a no-start condition), crank the engine for a few seconds and the Hall Sensor fault codes should clear. You will have a 4444 code which indicates No Faults Stored.
So, codes remain until the fault is remediated, except for 1122 and 1133 which are spurious and may appear randomly. Maybe nothing is wrong with your K-bike at all.
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2017, 12:32:53 PM
So, codes remain until the fault is remediated, except for 1122 and 1133 which are spurious and may appear randomly. Maybe nothing is wrong with your K-bike at all.Both the Warner and the Largiader treatises indicate that the fault codes can be cleared by cutting the power supply. Warner's method is disconnecting the battery for some unspecified time—probably enough time for a cup of coffee and an article in the Economist or Easyriders. Largiader's method is to remove fuse #5 for "some five seconds"—probably equivalent to 4.5 pushups.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 08, 2017, 10:24:12 PM
Guess I'll just check the air filter, put the tank back on, put all the plastic back on and ride the thing.
It fires on all four. A spurious code which persists?
Post by: Laitch on July 08, 2017, 10:45:53 PM
Guess I'll just check the air filter, put the tank back on, put all the plastic back on and ride the thing.Sometimes letting go is the only way to find peace.
Post by: MIbrick on July 09, 2017, 04:26:35 PM
Discovered the cause of the fuel leak that started this whole exercise. Per Mike's suggestion, I laid out some paper towel, filled the tank with a gallon or so of gas and sloshed it around. Waited for drips to appear, praying desperately there would be none. Alas, there were. So much for any benefit in being an ordained minister, I guess. The only place I can see it coming from is the sending unit. Luckily, I already have a new o-ring for that on the way. I have to wonder, though, why it decided to 'suddenly' give up the ghost.
:dunno
Oh well, that failed twenty cent part (if you got it anywhere BUT the BMW dealership) has led to all new just about everything at this point. Oh, and if it weren't for the fuel leak, which led to me doing brake lines, I probably wouldn't have noticed those two fork clamp machine screws backed out. So...silver linings, I guess.
Down side to today's activity: I lost one of the rubber ECU suspension knobs (under the seat, on the frame). Anyone have a line on a spare 51161459064 (Max Fiche: 52_1028 - Tool Box, Part #4) that won't cost me a Jackson?
Special thanks to: Mike from Wixom, the thread starters for those threads that showed up in my search for "I just bled my front brakes and I don't have any brake pressure" (hint: turn the bars to the left and work the brake handle to get the bubbles out) and, as always, the most helpful members of this board.
Post by: Martin on July 09, 2017, 04:45:23 PM
MIbrick spray on talc is very good at finding leaks. Clean areas that you suspect of leaking then spray with talc, and depending on what leak you are pursuing either go for a ride, or sit and wait. All will be revealed, and your bike will smell nice.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on July 09, 2017, 08:20:03 PM
Just spent a pleasant 2.5 hours pampering the Brick. Did an oil and filter change last Friday could not find the gearbox final drive oil anywhere locally I was told they could order it in. I did a bit of online research and have switched from Valvoline Duragear 75-90W to Castrol Syntrax 75-90W. I don't like switching oils or mixing them and I still had a bit of Valvoline left so I used it in the final drive and used the Castrol in the gearbox. This will give me enough left over so that I will only have to buy a litre of Castrol next time. I did a spline lube front and rear at 140,000 k's and I now have 160,000 K's. So I did a rear only spline lube and switched from Optimol paste to Honda Moly 60. Kept reading the occasional article saying Honda was a better choice. I used to do rear spline lubes at 30,000 K's this one at 20,000 K's. The Honda lube was a bit of a rip off, the tube was only half full. Splines looked fine very little wear if any. :riding:
Regards Martin.
Post by: K1300S on July 10, 2017, 07:02:41 AM
Ok though...even that amount is like a life time supply!
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2017, 07:18:01 AM
. . . the tube was only half full.That's an admirably positive attitude, Martin. :2thumbup: The old Vermont woodsman's proverb applies here, I think. Contents will settle during shipment.
Post by: Martin on July 10, 2017, 05:52:28 PM
How does grease settle? Must be aerated fizzy grease, and it's gone flat. :dunno
Regards a puzzled Martin.
Post by: Christopherguzzi on July 10, 2017, 09:05:32 PM
Post by: Martin on July 10, 2017, 10:39:11 PM
I'm lucky just being able to push mine around the garage, let alone giving it a running start. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 10, 2017, 10:54:52 PM
I'm lucky just being able to push mine around the garage, let alone giving it a running start. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Same here. If the starter doesn't spin, I'm walking.
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2017, 11:15:49 PM
Must be aerated fizzy grease, and it's gone flat. :dunnoYou win the coconut! Go outside and collect it. Congratulations! :clap:
Post by: Martin on July 11, 2017, 12:00:02 AM
Yeah just what I've always wanted, I'd rather have a Beefy's chocolate éclair. :lets-eat: Can I swap the prize? :dunno
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 11, 2017, 12:31:54 AM
beef chocolate eclairs :nono
Post by: Martin on July 11, 2017, 12:39:59 AM
Beefy's Pie shop make really great pies and awesome éclair's with real chocolate and real cream. Not chocolate fondant and fake cream. if you ever get to Queensland I will shout you one, you deserve it for putting up with your Vermontian weather. http://www.beefys.com.au/menu-1/#piesandmore
Regards Martin.
Post by: Christopherguzzi on July 11, 2017, 09:41:33 AM
Same here. If the starter doesn't spin, I'm walking.
Truth be told, while I described it as a "running" start, it was more like a "waddling" start on a downhill trajectory. :hehehe These bikes are too tall for me to push, keep balanced (especially with the somewhat narrow handlebars) and jump on once I am up to bump start speed. I thought about calling my wife and having her bring the trailer but at the end of the day that truly would've been more work than bump starting it. So, for those that wondered, didn't think, or didn't know that these bikes could be bump started, yes, they can. :2thumbup:
P.S. The funny part is that I went to start it later in the day and it popped right off.
Post by: MIbrick on July 11, 2017, 05:39:40 PM
Replaced all fuel lines internal to tank, replaced fuel sender unit o-ring, tested tank for 'gas tightness' with ~2 gallons of pure-gas. Replaced all tank lid gaskets and o-rings. Brought coolant in overflow up to MAX level. Replaced crankcase breather tube. Reinstalled fuel tank on bike, which necessitated re-installing the tank-to-rail line because I was being stupid and thought, "That could kink. I should shorten it about an inch. Nah, two. Two inches." Two inches was too much. Scrounged up another length of fuel line and trimmed ti fit properly this time. Anyway, tank back on. Lights, bump starter to check fuel pump priming...starter aaannndd....battery dead. <sigh> Battery on charger for a couple hours; started up and ran. YAY!
Although, I have a light ticking noise coming from the head/injector area (can't tell where) and some greyish smoke coming out the pipe. Maybe just from sitting for 3.5 weeks? I wish...
edit to add: Oh, and made a custom fitted under-tank insulation install from some foil-backed fiberglass stuff I got off Amazon for cheap (someone here had posted it in a thread).
Post by: johnny on July 11, 2017, 06:07:00 PM
Post by: jj4hm on July 13, 2017, 06:52:25 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 13, 2017, 06:54:30 PM
I found it right were I left it after I drained the oil again - stuck to the filter inside the housing.You can't lose it that way. :2thumbup:
Post by: MIbrick on July 13, 2017, 06:56:45 PM
Post by: whosyurdaddy on July 13, 2017, 07:14:05 PM
Post by: MIbrick on July 13, 2017, 07:36:16 PM
I installed my new Ram shock , now if the rain will leave .
Which one didja get? Did you do the fork springs, too? My 'to-do' list for my RS, at this point, is basically: rear shock, front springs, EBC rotors and pads. I've got a bunch of info from Ram, but would love input/feedback from the field.
Post by: whosyurdaddy on July 13, 2017, 08:20:41 PM
Post by: herseyb on July 13, 2017, 09:24:42 PM
Johnny, did I take too much apart? I know I needed to rehang the brainbox.
Post by: johnny on July 13, 2017, 09:32:44 PM
looks proper at this point... butts its early..
j o
Post by: herseyb on July 14, 2017, 10:50:25 AM
A Mr. Tony in Waunakee, WI has some good deals on K75 K100 (and other) bike parts. Y'all are too late for this spare final drive unit, but there are some good side cases and other parts that gotta get cleared out of his storage before he can move back to Italy. Square deals.
Post by: johnny on July 14, 2017, 11:07:19 AM
at this point of disassembly... you oughtta rattlecan that thing holestein camouflage... (https://www.google.com/search?q=holstein+camouflage&rlz=1C1TSNP_enUS724US724&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiV4q7shYnVAhVJ44MKHanjCc8QsAQILg&biw=1094&bih=487)
j o
Post by: alabrew on July 14, 2017, 01:56:59 PM
When I got back, I pulled back the tank of the '91 to look at the routing of the clutch cable as it didn't "look" right. It wasn't and I ended up removing the dash pad, releasing the clutch cable and changed how it went over the handlebars under the dash pad. In the process, I dislodged one of the ABS wires and, since I had a wire dislodged already for the Hazards, will resolder both and put it back together this weekend. Can only stand about 30 min. in the heat and sweating all over my glasses.
Post by: ccarlsonnh on July 14, 2017, 04:05:28 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 14, 2017, 09:58:23 PM
Think I'll leave the bottom sections of the fairing off for now to keep the heat off my legs.
Have to ride it tomorrow to see if those pesky fault codes go away.
BTW: I held one of the plastic pieces up to my Toyota. The color looks darn close. Might be able to get the Duplicolor color match paint to touch up. Nobody has KonigsBlau.
Post by: Chaos on July 14, 2017, 11:52:48 PM
I put the petrol tank back on. No clips at the back, but I guess I can buy some external circlips for that.
Notable K mechanic Chris Harris has a video rant about those clips, he never reinstalls them reasoning that in an accident they can rip the stud from the tank, allowing gasoline to spill and dire consequences. I lost mine (not on purpose) decades ago and have never had an occasion to wish they were there. But it's nice to have someone like Chris vindicate my carelessness.
Post by: tag3 on July 15, 2017, 12:52:11 AM
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2017, 07:48:26 AM
Hi folks, new here. Just got an 88 K75C. Was not running due to a stuck oil filter. Dropped the sump, removed the filter, cleaned up everything, installed the sump, oil filter and oil.By not running, does that also mean not starting? When you write stuck, does that also mean clogged? Was that the first item you checked or did you explore other reasons before you came to that one?
Post by: tag3 on July 15, 2017, 12:17:23 PM
By not running, does that also mean not starting? When you write stuck, does that also mean clogged? Was that the first item you checked or did you explore other reasons before you came to that one?Stuck as in the wrench slipped on the filter and rounded out the end. He then cut the end of the filter off thinking that he could, well I don't know what he was thinking. Then he just gave up and put it up on Clist for cheap and we talked for a while about the problem and he was just over the bike and wanted it gone. I then just did a check of the rest of the fluids and checked brakes.
Post by: Chaos on July 15, 2017, 01:42:28 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2017, 03:16:17 PM
Stuck as in . . .Now we know the rest of the story. :2thumbup:
Post by: gone_ape on July 15, 2017, 05:16:05 PM
http://www.66autocolor.com/Motorcycle-Paint-BMW-Blue-p/bmw-blue.htm (http://www.66autocolor.com/Motorcycle-Paint-BMW-Blue-p/bmw-blue.htm)
Not perfect.. the metallic "flake" in the paint wasn't "quite" the same size as original, if that makes any sense....but the actual color was shoot howdy close for Mystic Red....kinda pricey for rattle can, but not bad at all if total respray is out of the question....
Post by: Martin on July 15, 2017, 06:01:30 PM
Chaos be aware that your side covers on the K75s are held in place by the edge of your fuel tank. If the pins are loose in the rubbers, the omission of the "C" clips can result in the rear of the tank jumping up and the side covers falling off. A mate used to loose his, and it wasn't until had him drive over speed bumps at a local supermarket and the covers eventually fell off that he believed me. It doesn't happen on every bump or big pothole, the stars just have to align, and bingo they make a bid for freedom. With side covers getting dearer and harder to get, you have to weigh things up,conflagration or financial loss. :nono :dunno :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Post by: MIbrick on July 15, 2017, 06:04:19 PM
https://a.rever.co/rides/571719 (https://a.rever.co/rides/571719)
I'm hoping the Techron does...something. Unrelated note, what's the general consensus on fuel tank rear post c-clips? I know Chris Harris says you'll die for sure if you leave them on, but maybe there's a reason BMW design them to be there?
Post by: Martin on July 15, 2017, 06:20:56 PM
MIbrick read the previous post. The side covers on the K75s are held in place by the back edge of the fuel tank. If you omit the "C" clips there is a possibility that on hitting a speed bump or large pothole the tank can jump up releasing the side covers. This will not happen every time you hit a bump, as with all things there are variables. How much fuel in the tank, how tight are the tank pins in the rubbers, how hard you hit the bump. The other model Bricks vary in the way the side covers are attached. And I don't know what other Bricks rely on the edge of the tank for security. As to what else can happen by not securing the tank I'm not sure, I just know that I don't need the hassle or expense of loosing mine.
Regards Martin.
Post by: MIbrick on July 15, 2017, 06:45:27 PM
MIbrick read the previous post. The side covers on the K75s are held in place by the back edge of the fuel tank. If you omit the "C" clips there is a possibility that on hitting a speed bump or large pothole the tank can jump up releasing the side covers. This will not happen every time you hit a bump, as with all things there are variables. How much fuel in the tank, how tight are the tank pins in the rubbers, how hard you hit the bump. The other model Bricks vary in the way the side covers are attached. And I don't know what other Bricks rely on the edge of the tank for security. As to what else can happen by not securing the tank I'm not sure, I just know that I don't need the hassle or expense of loosing mine.
Regards Martin.
Hi, Martin-
The board warned me there was a new post I should read before hitting post on mine, but I ignored it. I was just thinking that I have a serious distrust of the sight tube on my coolant overflow and wanted to pull the tank back to get at the coolant fill just to see where the level is at in there. But, man, those c-clips are a PITA. I'm inclined to leave my c-clips on, though I have a K100 with low-seat and, thus, no side panels any longer.[/size]
Post by: Martin on July 15, 2017, 07:07:44 PM
MIbrick cool , I have a bit of bent wire velcroed under my seat for the express purpose of removing the "C" clips and it also removes the little clips on the seat pins. Another inmate has put skinny cable ties around his "C" clips which allows him to easily remove the clips.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2017, 08:00:03 PM
I have a serious distrust of the sight tube on my coolant overflow and wanted to pull the tank back to get at the coolant fill just to see where the level is at in there.What is there to distrust about the coolant level tube? Is it opaque? If you can see the marks on it, if you can see that the coolant level is between the marks and you know the tube isn't kinked along its length, trust it.
Post by: MIbrick on July 15, 2017, 08:44:49 PM
What is there to distrust about the coolant level tube? Is it opaque? If you can see the marks on it, if you can see that the coolant level is between the marks and you know the tube isn't kinked along its length, trust it.
Bottom half is opaque, top half is blue. I can see the coolant level in it (sorta, but yeah) and it's about 2/3 of the way to the MAX line. But, I just replaced a shit ton (or metric shitte tonne, for our Canadian contingent) of hoses and gaskets and o-rings and well, Laitch, you see, I suffer from this weird anxiety that I did something wrong and my cycle is going to kill me as revenge.
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2017, 08:49:56 PM
well, Laitch, you see, I suffer from this weird anxiety that I did something wrong and my cycle is going to kill me as revenge.Back to the minivan with you, MIbrick. Don't forget to buckle up. :giggles
Post by: MIbrick on July 15, 2017, 09:09:59 PM
Back to the minivan with you, MIbrick. Don't forget to buckle up. :giggles
Request denied. I actually have become quite attached to the bike, maybe due in no small part to the amount of time wrenching on her to replace all that stuff. ;) I put on 120 miles some of it at an extended 85 mph (90 indicated, something else that bothers me). I'm pretty sure if there were a coolant issue it would have surfaced somewhere in that 2.5 hour trek. But...
Post by: MIbrick on July 17, 2017, 10:15:03 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 21, 2017, 10:27:00 AM
This morning I put all the plastic back on. Went well until I got to the belly pan, those mounts are a cross thread waiting to happen. Off course that happened. Now I have one threaded piece broken away from the sheet metal. Can get it tight, can't get it off. It'll just have to hold on with three bolts.
Fine German engineering!
Post by: MIbrick on July 21, 2017, 12:01:26 PM
Changed the oil last weekend. Not much mileage on the old oil, but it's been in there for over a year. That new synth stuff looks funny, kinda blue in color.
This morning I put all the plastic back on. Went well until I got to the belly pan, those mounts are a cross thread waiting to happen. Off course that happened. Now I have one threaded piece broken away from the sheet metal. Can get it tight, can't get it off. It'll just have to hold on with three bolts.
Fine German engineering!
I have the belly fairing on my 100RS. One of the pressed in nuts just spins. If I put lateral pressure on the allen wrench, I can get the bolt tight. But I'm sure one of these days that trick isn't going to work any longer. Haven't formulated a plan of attack on how to fix it, although I did briefly consider just buying a new mounting plate.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 21, 2017, 02:40:23 PM
The bike ran well, but hot. It's 95 today, and even though the trip was only 10 miles that engine can cook my legs. Fan came on as soon as I entered my driveway.
I'll cool off a bit and go check the codes to see if it still thinks it can't read the bottom HES.
Post by: drut on July 21, 2017, 03:02:52 PM
" It's 95 today,"
My RS cooks my legs at much above 70,thankfully most of the year in my area its much lower and the heating is welcome.
Post by: gone_ape on July 22, 2017, 12:37:03 PM
Post by: Martin on July 22, 2017, 01:10:33 PM
If your legs are cooking you could try making some reflective leggings to go over your boots but under your trousers. There is a double sided reflective insulation with a blue foam core. Cut to size and shape, and attach with Velcro. I used it under my tank but would probably be worth a try in this application.
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 22, 2017, 01:12:38 PM
It was still there even after yesterday's ride.
Today I ran the fan test, AOK but the code was still there so I cranked the engine for about 10 seconds. Nothing but fours now.
Post by: rbm on July 22, 2017, 01:14:10 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 22, 2017, 01:22:15 PM
It's 102 and #HUMID here is Texas and frankly by the time I get two miles into the commute it's so uncomfortable at stop lights that motivation to ride is minimal...here's to a quick summer...(no offense you up north folks)I hear that! Only bike I ever had which came close to this was my Triumph Trident. That thing cooked in traffic. But, it was air cooled.
Post by: jakgieger on July 22, 2017, 08:58:31 PM
There's a document in the download section of k100 forum called Kbike heat management. Download it and see what others have done to combat heat from the engineRobert, I looked for the "download" section, etc., I found the write-up on your work (thank you), but no link or download.. :dunno2:
Post by: Filmcamera on July 22, 2017, 09:07:05 PM
EDIT
This is from the K100 forum
Quote
he download page is password protected and only accessible to registered members.
Please DO NOT INCLUDE ANY LINK to this page into a post on the forum.
If you have a minimum of 10 posts AND an introduction ,to get the access password send a PM (personal message) to Crazy Frog (no Email please).
Your request will be ignored if you don't have this minimum requirement!
Post by: CNRED on July 23, 2017, 10:22:52 AM
It's 102 and #HUMID here is Texas and frankly by the time I get two miles into the commute it's so uncomfortable at stop lights that motivation to ride is minimal...here's to a quick summer...(no offense you up north folks)
I removed my Fairing lowers, it looks a little diffrent, but not too bad, much cooler to ride. I'll put them back on when the temp returns to an exceptable level.
I'm pretty new to this bike, if there is a better way, I'm all ears...
Post by: Laitch on July 23, 2017, 10:41:14 AM
I removed my Fairing lowers, it looks a little diffrent, but not too bad, much cooler to ride.How about posting a picture of the transformation and an explanation of how long it took you to remove the lowers—just for the record and as a service to the general membership?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 24, 2017, 01:10:35 AM
I considered this. However, it looked as if the "kneepads" would have no support at the bottom and the radiator shroud would be hanging on by only two screws.
I removed my Fairing lowers, it looks a little diffrent, but not too bad, much cooler to ride.
As expensive as these things were I'm surprised they didn't offer air conditioning as an option.
Post by: Martin on July 24, 2017, 05:08:34 AM
You can get motorcycle air conditioning. There are a few different ones try googling motorcycle air conditioning.
Regards Martin.
Post by: CNRED on July 24, 2017, 08:14:42 AM
I considered this. However, it looked as if the "kneepads" would have no support at the bottom and the radiator shroud would be hanging on by only two screws.
As expensive as these things were I'm surprised they didn't offer air conditioning as an option.
I removed everything from the bottom of the top fairing down.
I'll take a pic today and post it up.
Basically, the "Kneepads" and the radiator shroud are removed as well as the bottom side pieces. I reinstalled the left and right fairing pockets so it does't look un-finished.
It's a pretty easy process, K75RT owners are removing the lower side pieces on a regular basis for maintenance so it's not a real big issue . You just go one step further and remove the radiatir fan shroud as well.
The bike looks a little diffrent and it is not as cosmetically appealing as with all of the fairings installed, but it does make a large difference in the ride-ability of the bike in hot weather. Opening the side fairing vents only makes the heat factior on the rider worse, I believe those vents are there for the motor, not the rider. Let's face it, these bikes will cook up a rider hot weather.
Removing the lowers and the radiator shroud takes only about an hours work. Clean them up, wrap them in "bubble wrap" and store them someplace where they will not be damaged. Place all the bolts and screws in a zip lock bag and tape it to the back of one of the lowers so they don't get lost or misplaced. When cooler weather shows itself, reinstall them takes about 1 ½ hours and you are good to go.
I don't have a lot of miles on my RT with the lowers missing but as of yet I have not notied a "Down Side" other then appearence.
If it doesn't rain here today, (Imagine that, rain in Phoenix, AZ), I'm going to put a few "shake down" miles on my bike. I've been fighting fuel issues, (bad pump, bad filter, bad four pin, and bad fuel sender). Hopefully, I will take the bike out, put a few miles on and get home without the assistance of a trailer.
Post by: CNRED on July 24, 2017, 04:50:25 PM
There's still heat that comes from yhe motor even with the lowers off, but not as much as with the lowers on. It seems the angle of the radiator and fan routes hot air back towards the riders legs. I'm not sure there is a quick fix for this problem without building some sort of deflector to route the hot air downward and away from the rider's legs
The bike is definitely cooler to ride with the lowers off but it is still not the complete answer.
Ill see if I can post a pic of the bike without the lowers.
[size=0.85em][/size][/color]
Post by: CNRED on July 24, 2017, 06:24:40 PM
greetings...
you gotts a 2 core or 3 core radiator in there...
j o
Is there a way to tell without pulling it out?
Post by: Laitch on July 24, 2017, 06:36:17 PM
Is there a way to tell without pulling it out?This link might help (http://www.k100-forum.com/t6297-2-row-vs-3-row-radiators#71976).
Post by: Laitch on July 25, 2017, 06:53:49 PM
I finally got round to making the foot peg risers so my petite wife can sit more comfortably on her new Russell seat.:clap: I think this calls for an "usie" (couple selfie) photo shot of the side profile with the two of you in the saddle.
Post by: thecableguy on July 26, 2017, 09:40:43 AM
I finally got round to making the foot peg risers so my petite wife can sit more comfortably on her new Russell seat.
Looks good! I'm sure the Queen will enjoy her new throne!
Jim
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 28, 2017, 09:20:45 PM
Of course, klutzy me, I seem to have disconnected the level sender while I was in there. DOH!
Just had a look in the tank. It was just the wiring harness obstructing the float arm. Easy fix. :clap:
Post by: jensk on August 01, 2017, 03:07:00 PM
Sendt fra min ONEPLUS A5000 med Tapatalk
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 05, 2017, 11:04:09 PM
I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps. Kinda like my old VWs, a semi double-clutch to match the revs. Still takes a manly shift, not like those British things I'm used to. Maybe if it shifted on the right like God intended.
Post by: Martin on August 05, 2017, 11:40:22 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 06, 2017, 12:16:11 AM
I just finished cleaning the switch and reassembling her rear end. To score some points I replaced the old clutch cable and the accessory outlet on the coil cover. She seems to be happier now. Will have to take her out on the road to spend some quality time with her next week.
Post by: Martin on August 06, 2017, 12:22:42 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 06, 2017, 12:29:04 AM
Adding a couple tablespoons of molybdenum disulfide powder to the transmission also helps make it shift easier as well. The powder coats the parts with a low friction film that makes things slide a lot easier.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 06, 2017, 12:32:54 AM
Post by: Martin on August 06, 2017, 12:50:26 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Vespa no more on August 06, 2017, 08:54:40 AM
When I bought it there were "oil leaks" on the motor.
While stashed at mate's place, bike managed to soil its nest and leave a sizeable oil stain on his garage floor - which later stopped. Out of oil I assumed.
Today, drained the sump ... dirty oil removed over flowed the 5L bottle I normally catch it in and created about 1L in tray as well.
6 Litres!
The things you find.
Seems to be coming together okay. Too early to call. Some dodgy wiring noticed
Guy
Post by: rbm on August 06, 2017, 10:39:07 AM
... I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps. ...+1 to what Martin observed above. Shifting on a K1100 should be silky smooth in both directions albeit requiring a positive shift action, but it should not be as you describe. There may be a transmission problem waiting to get worse.
Post by: beemrdon on August 06, 2017, 06:50:24 PM
Such a deal......
Post by: Laitch on August 06, 2017, 07:08:40 PM
I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps.I believe your number has come up for a transmission input spline lube, Blitzen. I scanned your post history and I don't recall reading about your performing that little task. It's likely shifting will be smooth up or down after doing that—if you haven't done that yet.
:yes
Post by: jj4hm on August 06, 2017, 08:49:32 PM
Post by: billday on August 06, 2017, 09:09:47 PM
I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up.
Sometimes my K100 declines my request for the next gear up, usually from 2nd to 3rd. If I give the top of the shift lever a light tap (with my toe) with the clutch engaged, it will then give me the upshift. Blitz, I'd be interested to hear if this works for you.
Post by: Scud on August 07, 2017, 11:09:16 PM
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c611c398616058a4/IMG_6574.jpg)
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 10, 2017, 08:11:04 AM
So is it the spinning drive shaft that induces this wobble? Is it the fluidbloc that is there to fight this? chain drive and a steering damper for my next ride me thinks!!
The bike is insured and I intend to restore it as most of it is cosmetic.
38 years of street riding, this is my very first shunt. My sons age 19 and 24 will never let me live this down. My bride held her breath a lot yesterday.
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 10, 2017, 08:52:56 AM
tire pressures were too high.. had my eh hemmm stocky bride on the back over the weekend and the pressures therefore maxed out..
front head-stock bearings.. ive wiggled and wobbled and they seemed solid..maybe contributed?
drive shaft was ....really ..eh hem... spun up.. rotational inertia....
never touched front suspension.. ill do fresh fluid...book says 3w several posters are using 8 to 10w???
new Shimkos less than 1000miles..likem lots.
rear shock is a YSS (sp) about 5 years old, PO, $375... damper was dialed up tight for wifey...stiffer better me thinks...
ok enough. Heading to shop for loud tunes and the post mortem disassembly.
Post by: BrickMW on August 10, 2017, 09:53:03 AM
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Post by: gone_ape on August 11, 2017, 11:55:27 PM
Just curious....have you checked your suspension sag...static and loaded? Fork Preload CAN be changed by swapping top of spring spacers in the forks....some use PVC, but I've found the Chrome plated brass 12 inch long 1 1/4" Bathroom sink drain Tailpiece pipe (at Lowes/Home Depot/Ace hardware etc...) to be almost an exact diameter to the original and you can cut it to size to give you the sag you need.
I'm 200 lbs w/o gear and the standard 10mm of preload was too soft....bottoming occasionally.... I ended up with 25 mm of preload and am happy with that/any more and I'd be going to a heavier front fork spring--also using the BMW 10w fork oil at the recommended volume for my type fork (Showa), which is 410cc drain/fill and 420cc diassembled......then turn your attention to the rear shock preload and adjust as well for sag.......
There's some helpful info here: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fork-oil.shtml
Fork Oil Quantities/Capacities Model Leg Change Disassemble
K75 Showa L 410 cc 420 cc
K75 Showa R 410 cc 420 cc
K75 BMW L 330 cc
K75 BMW R 330 cc
K75 Sport L 280 cc
K75 Sport R 280 cc (Has an "S" stamped on the aluminum plug on top of the leg.)
Post by: MIbrick on August 12, 2017, 08:34:07 AM
Replaced the original rear shock with a RAM Shock. That was fun, exciting and oh, so easy. Removed the right fork, disassembled, removed and discarded the plastic spacer and original spring, cleaned everything, installed new RAM Gold Line progressive spring, put fork back on bike. Repeat for left fork. Have not progressed beyond this, because I ran out of daylight and had a hankering for a margarita.
It occurs to me that the forks need to be aligned. Square, plumb and true, so to speak. I have the tops of the forks set at as close to the same height (relative to the top tree) as is humanly possible. Visually, it appears to me that the tops of the lower tubes, all the mountings bosses, and the lower knuckle all line up from left to right. I test fit the axle without the wheel in place and when I slide it in from the right fork, the left end of the axle appears to be just about dead center on the opening of the left fork axle bore (thought it takes a tiny bit of persuasion from a rubber mallet to get the bigger right side of the axle in to the right fork...maybe I'll throw some moly grease on it so I'm not dry fitting when I reassemble). But what I was left pondering over (one too many) margaritas last night is, "Is there an easy way to ensure everything is lined up properly and not out of kilter?"
Post by: John Lang on August 12, 2017, 09:07:27 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNEmOqY02EU
Post by: gone_ape on August 12, 2017, 01:15:35 PM
Any discrepancies will show up when placing the glass flat against the front or back side of the tubes by the glass plate not fitting "flush' against both tubes.
Post by: Laitch on August 12, 2017, 04:49:23 PM
Not proud of that today but thankful I'm sufficiently acrobatic to walk away with only rash....all armor installed for this ride daily...It might be instructive to tell us the gear you were wearing on this occasion that enabled you to get off lightly.
Post by: MIbrick on August 12, 2017, 05:33:07 PM
The rear shock is a little to much like a trampoline. I'll need to screw with the pre-load and rebound adjustments, I guess, to get it more in line with the forks. On my bike, the Realm Gold Line progressives and 10w fork oil took the front end from cushy/wallowy/marshmallow to firm but not harsh, although on a sweeping, washboard lefthander I ride a lot, it got kind of...skippy. Front end dive under moderate braking is gone (though it will still dive a bit on emergency braking). The new fork seals are not leaking either, which makes me happy happy.
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 12, 2017, 10:35:58 PM
It might be instructive to tell us the gear you were wearing on this occasion that enabled you to get off lightly.Firstly, i was just plain lucky...off 20 feet sooner and I would have collided with a culvert...end of story..im still kinda numbplussed I'm not worse..
I Was wearing a GP sport armor clad jacket I just bought for my son off Craigslist. $60 well spent!!!.. Too big for him I adopted it thank the Lord..., my gloves have hard plastic knuckle guards I bought used off feebay, full face helmet didn't seem to take a hit other than popping the face shield loose on one side... Gander jeans were shreaded, back pocket on side nearly worn off. Cross training running shoes pinky toe bruised but no pain. Stupid choice. My only rash was below the waist ...both knees have baseball size rash. My glutes and lower back are severely bruised black...interestingly my knock off GoPro mounted to my chin was un touched and recorded my tumble. My Trump card though is a lifetime of trampolining, skiing, gymnastics and of late- karate that driil into ones head to tuck and roll. My hand would otherwise have shattered.
Armored pants are a must for me in future. I'll post the video someday...
The bike is disassembled tonight...lots more damage than I originally estimated. All but one fiberon fairing component are damaged. I may have to walk away from it. A cause for mourning. There's a nice 91 on eBay for what I'll get from the insurance. Gnight. Pics of shreaded elbow armor tomorrow. Thanks fir asking Laitch- therapeudic...
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 13, 2017, 10:56:04 AM
tragkorbs look like the hinges let go. About $12 for hinges.
As I mentioned earlier, these K bike fairings are very repairable. I wouldn't walk away.
Post by: Vespa no more on August 14, 2017, 08:15:29 AM
Heard that somewhere before:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPw-3e_pzqU
Post by: Martin on August 14, 2017, 10:30:31 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 16, 2017, 09:09:50 PM
I also added some molyD to the gearbox, shifting could always be better.
I know, "lube the splines." Don't know when this was last done. Only 33K on the odometer, and I've only put 1000 of those miles on it. Videos on the Splintology post never stop loading.
I also used some vinyl repair goo on a couple of small spots on my seat. Seems to be difficult to find a decent replacement without spending the bank. I might consider a new cover with a bit of extra padding.
Post by: Martin on August 22, 2017, 03:22:54 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 22, 2017, 04:38:31 AM
I've seen covers for about $40. It looks as if they attach with rivets.
I have recovered a couple of Triumph seats in past. A space heater helps to stretch the vinyl. The seat I have is a Corbin, but looks to be the same contour as a stock seat.
Post by: Martin on August 22, 2017, 05:51:18 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: White Dog on August 22, 2017, 12:44:44 PM
Post by: billday on August 22, 2017, 05:02:53 PM
First got symptoms when caught in stop-and-go traffic, stoplights, etc. on a warm day: First a rough idle, progressing to random combinations of refusing to idle (without throttle or "choke"), stalling, no acceleration, and refusing to restart until cooled off.
The engine angels really helped me out by (1) not letting this problem start on any of my long rides this summer, and (2) alerting me to it before I left on my annual ride to Vermont. The timing meant I had to drive to Vermont in a rented cage, but that sure beat getting stranded on the Merritt Parkway.
The Euromotoelectrics replacement is a great buy and a perfect fit, I highly recommend it:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boignsen-k033edl.htm
PS: Just noticed that EME also sells the gasket for the T-shaped piece that covers the HES:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/tc-gasket307.htm
If you buy their HES, order this gasket too, because the one on your bike will be shriveled up and useless. (I used some gasket in a tube, which actually cost more than this gasket, which I didn't take time to look for.)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 24, 2017, 03:10:55 AM
I do need to take out the GPS and ride just to see where my speedo is. Low-profile tires and it reads 80mph at 5000rpm in fifth.
This bike reminds me a lot of my old Triumph Trident. Doesn't handle nearly as well, though.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 24, 2017, 08:53:40 AM
80 mph at 5 grand sounds about right. If I remember correctly, top speed at redline is about 154 mph
Post by: rbm on August 24, 2017, 09:17:18 AM
Post by: Scud on August 24, 2017, 11:46:01 AM
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/1416d52ecbd99896/IMG_6793.jpg)
Checked my Giant Loop Great Basin saddlebag. Will pick it up tomorrow in Munich, strap it on a rental R1200GS and ride to Landeck, Austria. :curvy-road
Post by: BlitzenGruv on September 04, 2017, 01:09:15 AM
Checked the speedo by timing myself between mile markers. 90 indicated times out to about 82mph.
Ended up at a bar throwing darts. Kinda strange switching to Coke after a couple of brews. But, good thinking. A cop followed me for a couple of miles after I left. No blue lights is a good thing!
Post by: The Dude on September 04, 2017, 03:25:02 AM
Last time,years ago,I had the red n blues following me for about a mile I got done for not having a rear view mirror.The chase had two cars involved and when I did the life saver look over my shoulder,I spotted it and slowed down to let it pass.It didn't pass.Then the other one screamed up from the other end of the road.I was on the Guzz so being loud couldn't hear too well and it also goes like you just stole it which was why they were actually interested in it and me.Very nice of them to be concerned for my property!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 04, 2017, 10:44:54 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on September 04, 2017, 12:39:51 PM
Yesterday ... trying to figure out why it chewed up, and spat the nutz out? :dunno
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1595-030917193203.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on September 04, 2017, 01:09:17 PM
Saturday installed new alternator drive dog, nutz, and cup. Yesterday ... trying to figure out why it chewed up, and spat the nutz out? :dunnoWere the nutz assembled with their joint strands touching the base of the cup or the base of the driving dog?
Post by: bocutter Ed on September 04, 2017, 01:40:46 PM
Post by: DavidATL on September 04, 2017, 04:02:22 PM
Post by: K1300S on September 04, 2017, 07:35:45 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3446-040917192746.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3446-040917192844.jpeg)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on September 05, 2017, 12:42:04 AM
Blitz, nice to hear that you're finally getting to enjoy your brick. +1 on the coke. I always switch to black coffee before heading home. Lots of police looking to be DUI heroes around here.Holiday weekend, the cops are looking for any excuse. This one was tight on my ass, and I'm sure that he was hoping I'd accelerate away.
The K is too heavy to ride drunk. It also lacks that old British drunk test, a kick start. :hehehe
Post by: TX brick on September 05, 2017, 06:03:43 AM
Nutz went strand first into the cup, such that they'd straddle the bevel on the dog fin's tips.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57951-1985-K100-Monkey-nuts (https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57951-1985-K100-Monkey-nuts)
Post number 6 is the wrong way, post number 8 is the right way.
Post by: alabrew on September 06, 2017, 05:20:26 PM
Post by: Scud on September 06, 2017, 10:40:19 PM
My butt-dyno says I got 5 more HP. It runs better at all RPMs. I don't know if the original injectors had ever been serviced - so this is probably an unfair comparison (old vs new). But whatever the case, it made a noticeable difference for me.
I used 5W Maxima fork oil, which is clear. The old fluid was blue and I think it must have been thicker, because the suspension has smoothed out a bit too.
Post by: Laitch on September 06, 2017, 10:57:33 PM
Those BMWMOA images can only be viewed by logged in members, apparently. Post them here.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57951-1985-K100-Monkey-nuts (https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57951-1985-K100-Monkey-nuts)
Post number 6 is the wrong way, post number 8 is the right way.
Post by: bocutter Ed on September 07, 2017, 12:49:59 PM
Those BMWMOA images can only be viewed by logged in members, apparently. Post them here.Yes please.
Strange, I was expecting to see a YouTube or 2 but, nada.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on September 30, 2017, 08:25:10 PM
BlitzenGruv, I'll wager that a big difference between the '71 BSA and the '91 RS handling is the handlebars. My '85 Standard has higher, wider handlebars and is much easier to counter steer than the '91 with the short sport bars. I almost hang off trying to get it to turn like the '85.Nah, the big difference is over 200lbs weight difference. I have to plan ahead for every corner on the K. The old Brit bikes had ESP, if you enter a corner at the right speed the bike finds the correct line.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on September 30, 2017, 08:44:24 PM
Tomorrow I shall use propane to check for air leaks before putting the plastic back.
Packing my saddlebags for the trip to Barber Vintage Festival next weekend near Birmingham. Anybody else going?
I'll be in the vendor area at the Nashville TonUp club booth. Stop by and have a cold one.
BTW: I also went out looking for some heat-sink grease for the ignition box. Y'all said that it was a good idea to renew it.
Auto Zone web site said they had it in stock, but nobody at the store knew what I was talking about. Struck out at the other major stores too. NAPA was closed by then.
No electronics stores left in this town.
Worst thing about the interweb is that I can no longer buy anything locally.
Post by: blackie1 on October 01, 2017, 12:05:13 AM
bought a 1991 K75RT (naked) with givi screen
pulled the tank off, de oxit and dielectric grease on all electrical connections, they really were in great condition anyway. looked like it had just rolled out of the factory and not 26 years old thats for sure.
this bike has been well looked after
I was keen to see if it would fire up after my fiddling so I whacked the tank back on and hit the starter and it turned over but didn't fire up.
I tried again .....same result
then I spotted the L-jetronic unit still sitting on my bench with the side covers lol :clap:
almost wet myself laughing
installed the offending unit hit the button and she purred into life.
carried out Johnnys backspin starter maintenance trick, went for a fang round the blocked , topped up the gas and garaged it ready for next weekend.
perfect.
Post by: CNRED on October 02, 2017, 08:00:12 AM
Post by: jakgieger on October 02, 2017, 08:21:44 AM
Post by: blackie1 on October 03, 2017, 04:20:19 AM
i need to decrease their file size, will swot up on that and have another try.
Post by: blackie1 on October 03, 2017, 04:28:50 AM
Post by: CNRED on October 03, 2017, 10:02:10 AM
Post by: bizzaro on October 07, 2017, 12:04:43 AM
Post by: blackie1 on October 07, 2017, 06:23:26 AM
came with its own tragkorbs but to be honest i hardly ever use them.
actually it also came with all the original RT fairings, screen etc etc in a couple of boxes but I will probably flick those off as they are just taking up room in my shed.
goes great and biz I reckon you would love it after your 1100. I haven't missed the extra horsepower of my 1100 at all.
I didn't realize how much manhandling that I had to give the 1100 to get thru corners quickly, hanging my ass off the seat, looking round the mirrors with some heavy duty counter steering lol
first decent corner I went thru on the K75 i nearly left the road on the "inside" of the corner as I wasn't prepared for how easy it goes around corners
Post by: bizzaro on October 07, 2017, 08:45:41 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on October 07, 2017, 08:57:32 PM
Another darn tropical storm threatens to dump really serious weather in the area. They cancelled everything for Sunday.
I bugged out about 15:00 today and got home ahead of the rain. Gustav like cruising at 80.
Spent most of my time helping my club sell T-shirts. I didn't get to do much shopping. I was tempted to by a nice pair of correct mirrors, but of course they were the wrong color. Didn't have room in my bags for them anyway.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 08, 2017, 08:17:23 PM
She now starts and runs like she's supposed to.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on October 09, 2017, 12:51:31 AM
Post by: alabrew on October 22, 2017, 03:15:58 PM
Put on a new set of tires, Metzler Roadtec Z8's. Low speed handling is better as the old front was showing it's dual compound and there was a ridge of rubber proud in the middle of the front.
I also removed the speedo. to change out some of the LED bulbs the PO had installed. I had a lightly glowing bulb minder & temp. light and the battery light was always lit at idle. Changing the alternator light back to a standard bulb also seems to have solved my engine dying problem coming off the interstate and when I chopped the throttle off.
Today, I'm planning on moving the Ohlins shock adjustment knob from the lower right. My pants leg has caught a few times with close calls and just the other day I went :falldown: (well I went over on the other side) when my pants caught when stopping for a construction zone. Pretty embarrassing to tip over in front of the worker.
My headlight low beam has gone out and I will be replacing the bulb too. Hopefully I'll be able to source a bulb locally.
Also going to swap out the temperature sending unit on the water pump, my temp. gauge is showing full hot but the cluster light isn't on. The PO had a replacement part but had never installed it. Unfortunately, he didn't give it to me until after I had changed the coolant, so I'm going to try a quick swap.
Post by: Supershooter on October 22, 2017, 10:21:26 PM
Supershooter
Post by: jensk on October 23, 2017, 12:41:58 AM
Even though the old cable seemed OK - no broken strands or other faults - the clutch is much easier with the new cable.
I have stored the old cable on the bike as a reserve
Sendt fra min ONEPLUS A5000 med Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on October 23, 2017, 01:02:45 AM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: gazman on October 23, 2017, 05:23:50 AM
Post by: jensk on October 23, 2017, 04:38:04 PM
Are you using normal Grease nipples/what dimension are they
Sendt fra min ONEPLUS A5000 med Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on October 23, 2017, 05:24:54 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: Enfield on November 08, 2017, 11:56:40 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/db178856bdb7a3a58709a630765ca363.jpg)
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Post by: rbm on November 08, 2017, 06:15:55 PM
Post by: bizzaro on November 08, 2017, 07:19:18 PM
Post by: Enfield on November 09, 2017, 12:03:55 AM
I will be Happy to report back when tested.... but right now temp is around 6-7 deg. celsius... and winter is coming with salt on the roads :-/..
Regards
Christian
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: billday on November 13, 2017, 02:21:30 PM
Everything's in spec except for the #3 intake, which is tight by 1/1000 of an inch. The shim there didn't have a legible number, I don't have a micrometer . . . so I decided to live with it.
Post by: riots100 on November 13, 2017, 10:07:49 PM
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-digital-caliper-47260.html
Post by: The Dude on November 13, 2017, 11:57:37 PM
Checked my valve clearance, for the first time ever.These motor's lives can be aged by thier valve clearences,a bit like horses and their teeth.Best give em a happy life,eh?
Everything's in spec except for the #3 intake, which is tight by 1/1000 of an inch. The shim there didn't have a legible number, I don't have a micrometer . . . so I decided to live with it.
Post by: Chaos on November 14, 2017, 11:17:23 AM
I know it's Harbor Freight, but my Micrometer has taken a licking, and is still ticking (and accurate)
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-digital-caliper-47260.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-digital-caliper-47260.html)
Somewhere there is a worthwhile old thread about good and bad items HF. I'd link to it but am too lazy, maybe one of our more motivated members like Laitch can find it.
Post by: Laitch on November 14, 2017, 11:19:59 AM
Somewhere there is a worthwhile old thread about good and bad items HF.https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1799.0
Post by: BlitzenGruv on November 20, 2017, 02:49:25 AM
Still worth the ride.
Probably the last ride of the season. I need to take the fairing off for repairs and paint.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 20, 2017, 09:43:10 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on November 23, 2017, 12:04:01 AM
The bike is what it is, large, heavy, powerful. Nice on the interstate, ponderous around town, will never be my everyday ride.
I do appreciate the fuel injection, flip the lever and push the button, fires right up even in cold weather. Beats flipping the enrichment levers on Mikunis, kicking twice before turning on the key and hoping the BSA starts before my leg wears out.
Supposed to hit 60 degrees on Friday. The idiot light came on Sunday. I got about 60 miles of riding to get the last of the fuel out of the tank before the Winter layover.
Post by: Scott_ on November 24, 2017, 04:11:56 PM
As I was un-soldering the wiring I see that one of the brush holders had started to melt and the brush was laying pretty much flat....... it's a wonder that it was even running.....
All done and runs like new now.
This is what I put on. direct replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FSCHZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: DavidATL on December 20, 2017, 09:49:41 AM
Part way through holiday maintenance including 2nd drive shaft splines inspection and lube (only 2 years/ 3k since I last did it but looks like zero maintenance in the first 18k miles before I owned the bike), new battery (PC925L), upgrade to 50A alternator (Bosch reman), polished up the Staintune, new spark plugs (Bosch made in India now :-( ), and changed rad cap.
On the splines, I used GD-525 30% and sprinkled a little magic dust (aka moly powder) on them for good measure.
Post by: alexis291 on December 20, 2017, 03:36:19 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171220/e65fb72d8988526bf5bf1145133a2708.jpg)
Well not this actual hose but the one it is going to replace.
Unfortunately to find the problem I had to remove the top half of the airbox then put it all back together so I could use the bike to get to work. Now I have to do it all over again to fit the new hose. Do I get a prize?
PS If you plan to do this job then make sure you have clips narrow enough to fit on the intake rubbers so you can put it all back together again. The clips need to be no more than 8mm wide so a standard jubilee clip (12mm) won't fit. I had to cut mine off because they were crimped.
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Post by: MCRyder on December 21, 2017, 05:02:42 PM
I know :musicboohoo: :hehehe but glad it's done :yes . Now to order and install a new center piece, later.
Post by: Martin on December 21, 2017, 05:19:59 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: Filmcamera on December 21, 2017, 07:06:18 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-211217190408.jpeg)
Post by: K1300S on December 21, 2017, 07:33:52 PM
Today I started the process of fitting a new rear brake disc to my K100 RS 16V. I brought an EBC disc on Amazon and it looks great. It came with instructions saying to remove the ABS ring from the old disc and use it on the new. It also came with some small bolts to fix it with. I did eventually manage to get the ring off the old disc and as far as I can see it is only a pressure fitting. There are were holes in the old disc and are three matching ones in the new but they do not seem to do anything. Has anyone else done this procedure and am I maybe missing a retaining ring or something?
you are not missing anything. the lips of the bolt heads hold the ring on.
process of installing is made easy by freezing the disk overnight and heating the ring. that provides just enough compression/expansion for the ring to just slide on.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-211217190408.jpeg)
Post by: Filmcamera on December 21, 2017, 07:45:46 PM
Post by: Martin on December 22, 2017, 12:10:19 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 22, 2017, 06:37:06 PM
20171222_155436-756x1008.jpg (37.29 kB . 432x576 - viewed 538 times)Happy Holidays to all of you.
Post by: Martin on December 23, 2017, 08:04:32 PM
Regards Martin and Izzy the Brick.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Izzy relaxing under a Palm tree.
Post by: Laitch on December 25, 2017, 10:15:06 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 25, 2017, 10:48:42 AM
Post by: beemerphile on December 25, 2017, 11:37:25 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 25, 2017, 11:25:44 PM
15F right now with 20mph winds make for a -10F wind chill and about a foot of fresh snow since Saturday. Looks like this December will be the first month since March of 2016 I haven't done at least 200 miles. In fact, miles this month are 0. Could have got out at the beginning, but was still sore from my accident and couldn't get my leg over the bike.
Post by: MCRyder on January 06, 2018, 05:02:07 PM
Post by: gofargogo on January 07, 2018, 10:33:43 PM
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 07, 2018, 11:20:40 PM
It’s been a busy first week of ownership, but today I finally got the final drive off and found very worn splines.
That's too bad. Splines are a crap shoot because no seller is going to let you pull the drive shaft and final drive to look at them. You hope for the best, usually the condition of the rest of the bike is a good indication of what you will find.
Where are you located? Are you looking at a couple months of winter. If so, you could spend some time watching eBay for a final drive. K75 and K100 models are interchangeable even if they have different drive ratios. Even so, the effect on performance is negligible so I wouldn't worry about that.
Here's one with what looks like good splines for $150 shipped. And you get a spare speedo pickup with it. You might have to swap your old disc.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-BMW-K75-FINAL-DRIVE-GEAR-DIFFERENTIAL/222705030148?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item33da411404:g:2z8AAOSwC-tZ~HnL (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-BMW-K75-FINAL-DRIVE-GEAR-DIFFERENTIAL/222705030148?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item33da411404:g:2z8AAOSwC-tZ~HnL)
A drive shaft can be had for just under $200. Another option is to buy the splined coupling from Motobins in the U.K. and have a machine shop rework your old shaft to have the new spline welded on. The old shaft is cut down and then bored on a lathe to a press fit to the new splines which are then welded. Not a terribly complicated job judging that they do the installation for U.K. customers for what looks like $60US.
https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100 (https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100)
(https://www.motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg) (https://www.motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg)
Part No.55552REPLACEMENT SPLINE FOR 20 SPLINE SHAFTS. ( SPLINE ONLY-THIS REQUIRES WELDING OR SEE 55553 )
£55.00 ex VAT
(£66.00 inc VAT)Qty
Post by: gofargogo on January 07, 2018, 11:31:40 PM
Where are you located? Are you looking at a couple months of winter. If so, you could spend some time watching eBay for a final drive. K75 and K100 models are interchangeable even if they have different drive ratios. Even so, the effect on performance is negligible so I wouldn't worry about that.
A drive shaft can be had for just under $200. Another option is to buy the splined coupling from Motobins in the U.K. and have a machine shop rework your old shaft to have the new spline welded on. The old shaft is cut down and then bored on a lathe to a press fit to the new splines which are then welded. Not a terribly complicated job judging that they do the installation for U.K. customers for what looks like $60US.
https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100 (https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100)
(https://www.motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg) (https://www.motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg)
Part No.55552REPLACEMENT SPLINE FOR 20 SPLINE SHAFTS. ( SPLINE ONLY-THIS REQUIRES WELDING OR SEE 55553 )
£55.00 ex VAT[/b]
(£66.00 inc VAT)Qty
Northern California, which has had amazing riding weather lately.
There’s a whole swing arm/fd drive shaft on eBay right now, but it blows up my current budget and they don’t actually show the splines in the FD.
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 07, 2018, 11:57:42 PM
Have you gotten the engine running yet? That would be a good thing to do along with all the other maintenance items while you save up for the parts you need for the drive splines. It will also give you a chance to see if the rest of the bike needs additional work as well. Worse comes to worse, you can part this one out to get cash for another better one.
It sucks to have to work on a "new" bike when you want to jump on it and ride, but sometimes you just have to spend some time getting it ready. If you got it for a good price you could still do all the work and have a good machine for less than the market price.
Have you contacted the seller about the splines? Maybe you can return the bike, or work out a refund of some of your purchase price. Show them the eBay listing for the final drive and shaft and see what they say.
Post by: Laitch on January 08, 2018, 12:47:45 AM
It’s been a busy first week of ownership, but today I finally got the final drive off and found very worn splines. Sigh.That's probably why it only cost you $500.
Believe what Gryph is telling you. You could still come out of this with a good bike for a bargain price.
Post by: gofargogo on January 08, 2018, 12:55:15 AM
That's probably why it only cost you $500.Oh yeah. I knew it was a gamble, and it was cheap enough that it was worth the risk, but I was hoping that I could dodge that bullet.
Believe what Gryph is telling you. You could still come out of this with a good bike for a bargain price.
Also it looks like this week is going to have some amazing riding weather. So I’m mostly petulant about that.
It runs, and from what I can tell, it runs reasonably well. I’ve ridden it around my neighborhood and in town a little. I was hoping to finish up the “little” things and ride the snot out of it later this week.
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Post by: TX brick on January 08, 2018, 08:15:13 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 08, 2018, 08:38:29 AM
With patience and dedication, you still might be able to find reasonably good rear drive from a another bike but before you purchase one, you should probably post some clear photos of its input shaft splines and seal for a group consultation here.
The transmission input and output shaft splines should be checked now before spending any big money on the rear drive. Send photos. :2thumbup:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 08, 2018, 09:52:46 AM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-BMW-K75-K-75-RT-ABS-K75RT-DRIVE-SHAFT-X106/352246350242?hash=item520384c1a2:g:RBAAAOSweZJaTVf4
I have done business with this guy a few times in the past and have found his stuff is good quality and priced fairly. You might ask him if he can supply some good photos of the splines if it makes you feel better.
Post by: gofargogo on January 08, 2018, 10:21:38 AM
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 08, 2018, 10:31:04 AM
Post by: Supershooter on January 23, 2018, 10:44:36 PM
Supershooter
Post by: enb54 on January 23, 2018, 11:06:33 PM
Two questions from the slow kid, what is this? Pic one. I was messing around with a multimeter and stuck the positive lead into the red wire fitting on the alternator and placed the negative lead to the frame, did I do damage to the bike when I did that?
Pic 1 I don't know but someone else likely will.
Pic 2 if your multimeter was on "Volts" then likely nothing, if on "Amps" you may have blown the multimeter, if on "Ohms" then you may have blown the multimeter. Alternators are pretty robust, the heavy red lead goes to the + connection on the battery, so if your multimeter was set for "Ohms" or "Amps" then you likely created a low resistance path to ground (the - connection) and perhaps damaged your meter but not the alternator. If the multimeter was set to "DC Volts" then you would have read battery voltage to ground, no damage to multimeter or alternator. Is there a problem with your machine or were you just "testing"?
Post by: Laitch on January 24, 2018, 12:20:32 AM
. . . what is this? Pic one.I'm guessing it's a valve in the hose that on the '85 K100 bikes routed fuel vapor between the crankcase and a port located toward the front of the tank. I've read here that both the tank side and the crankcase side are often capped off because the system apparently was ineffective and problematic. My K75 has a vent port at the rear of its tank. The hose is routed to emerge behind the right foot peg plate. It has one of those valves.
Here's an extract from MAX BMW's fiche.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1601-240118001112.png)
Post by: Supershooter on January 24, 2018, 09:57:43 PM
[/quote]
enb54,
I was having issues with the battery staying charged, so I was testing the battery for V when at idle and when the motor rpm was increased to 3000. No difference was seen, so I concluded that the alternator wasn't charging. So at that point for some unknown reason I decided to insert the red lead onto the red wire coming out of the connector attached to the alternator and place the negative lead to the bikes frame. Nothing came up on the alternator. I them turned the bike off, and since then the bike won't start. I'm stumped.
Supershooter
Post by: Supershooter on January 24, 2018, 10:10:28 PM
I'm guessing it's a valve in the hose that on the '85 K100 bikes routed fuel vapor between the crankcase and a port located toward the front of the tank. I've read here that both the tank side and the crankcase side are often capped off because the system apparently was ineffective and problematic. My K75 has a vent port at the rear of its tank. The hose is routed to emerge behind the right foot peg plate. It has one of those valves.
I'll have to look a little closer, this one was under the air box and I haven't found where its connected, my tank is laying on the bench and I didn't disconnect that line to remove it. I do have and over flow hose that was snaked through the bike and came out by the right foot peg but I mistakenly pulled it out and not sure how to get back where it came from
Dustin
Post by: rbm on January 24, 2018, 10:18:13 PM
If that's the scenario, then it wasn't the multimeter that has caused the problem you are experiencing. There is something else going on. Even if you somehow blew the regulator in the alternator, it won't prevent the bike from starting. To isolate the alternator as a potential problem, remove it from the circuit (pull the plug) and try starting. If it still won't start, you've eliminated the alternator as a potential cause.
I suggest you start a separate thread for this problem rather than continue to diagnose in this thread.
Post by: enb54 on January 25, 2018, 04:06:17 AM
enb54,
I was having issues with the battery staying charged, so I was testing the battery for V when at idle and when the motor rpm was increased to 3000. No difference was seen, so I concluded that the alternator wasn't charging. So at that point for some unknown reason I decided to insert the red lead onto the red wire coming out of the connector attached to the alternator and place the negative lead to the bikes frame. Nothing came up on the alternator. I them turned the bike off, and since then the bike won't start. I'm stumped.
Supershooter
I would guess that your alternator was not charging the battery, so you should measure the battery voltage and if low charge with an external charger. DO NOT try to start your machine with a low battery, as you will likely damage the contacts on the starter relay, aggravating your problem. As rbm (Robert) suggests, likely you should start a new thread in this (Motobrick Workshop) forum. Good luck, most of these electrical problems have been very well documented here...
Edit: Jan 26 1034 MST... Search "alternator" here at motobrick or you can go to http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html#Section_2 which is from a hotrodding forum and will give you the complete lowdown on the need for exciter current, remembering that all alternators do work the same way but implementation (wiring, voltage regulation) may be accomplished in different ways.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on January 26, 2018, 11:12:36 PM
When I got ready to leave the key would not rotate to the ON position. I tried it many times and got some WD from inside. Eventually it worked.
Another thing for my to-do list, rebuild that switch and get a spare key.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 27, 2018, 08:59:36 AM
Post by: Martin on January 27, 2018, 05:04:34 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on January 27, 2018, 11:42:38 PM
Post by: beemrdon on January 28, 2018, 03:00:33 AM
Replaced both front footpeg rubbers.
Also, ordered a new bar end weight cover. Present one will be destroyed while taking off the left side bar end weight and grip to see if the little wire which wraps around the handlebar, and is the heat source for the heated grip, is broken somewhere...
Does this count???...bought a pair of Scorpion Covert riding jeans and added the knee pads (sold seperately, of course). :riding:
Post by: Snowman on January 28, 2018, 01:10:37 PM
Fired her up for the first time since thanksgiving. Typical S.Dakota winter, rarely above freezing, lots of -10F -20F and she fired right up and she hasn't been on a battery tender, for a month! impressed! Normally it is always on a battery tender but my brother in law forgot to plug it in after he borrowed my tender for a few days, and I feared the worse.
Once the weather warms up I will start on the fluid change ritual and its time for valve check and TB sinc. I had put it up for sale but its way too good a bike for the money people wanna give so I'm keeping it.
Post by: rbm on February 07, 2018, 11:06:20 PM
Over the past 4 years of so, the paint around filler cap on the tank has turned an ugly brown rust colour and started to lift and peel. This was all happening at the water drainage hole. Very strange, as there is no steel in that part of the tank to rust. So the painter repaired the area and resprayed. The same problem occurred with my gas cap, which was chrome painted. It too lifted so I had the cap polished.
The covers had also been chrome painted. This painted chrome finish did not last as I had been promised, so I picked up a crankcase and valve cover set which I had chromed. The painter added the highlights. So, when the warmer weather arrives, I'll be out in the garage replacing the covers and tank.
Post by: CNRED on February 08, 2018, 08:24:18 AM
That's gonna look fantastic. Couple of pics when you're done?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 08, 2018, 08:44:16 AM
The solution is to find a shop that uses 2k clearcoats. That is what the factory uses and is why the factory paint jobs don't have paint problems around the filler.
Post by: rbm on February 08, 2018, 08:54:26 AM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z8lpR4q4pVkLGsAWrJyz-I1XR0QLffQDKK87iPVXQuQJbNY64lIXcqfllIfqwD2hyEmdpG0djAbR3NQ7n1Sn3qRXsFUVv_9WA7UCfp1VvC90Y9g2khtqzlE_AiKU6njAWMO3Jl-CN7AvhRohcqUvGvdB6dciAtolMVf_l5Zp0weWREu5UfF6Kc84DOtsd2Dt__eTMiGcX3jpdnsUoSYpmlw4bXSVHw-StG2UdaycGpfHBapUpkX4vWyHZZ_ZV3OnCCuE-0TRf20JwePW44XCuJpGekEWRlbPmZam_NYxAMGX1KoZZ5TVCjLEVEtnd_S-fTqadcxqzCTgmkfGJx4dTdyKWIfy3lhHjfcNCgZQyGM_QpwgSV1Uq1xEFOV5KdpqezcyIwJ2zaE4NHfiC2OU4k1yKHFw5fPK2btj_QQaIrEQ9pPo0ny2suCud9aHz9sNXaY3D6WTQ6f5bV4ehh4MXcLQXuppRVUnru5FZVstSzhYkjNb-3wKXW3dP4Ky7YRYctYnIi8bndPUNFcvpARbrBSl06JSJwBTHN0CnXWCBLHENjHHBuXAb-8dkeQn_BO5Xmx30s9tHkaisrgbDkKW8Z6SJ8Rd-e0aT1_-7cQ=w2486-h1398-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WnHLZhhPFBsc-PCLMCc0REMO9RrBDahp1ZXEWB-QPJCovSHrNHvO8ry5f91X0xtzsoXf9iNE2Bqapho62f9_vYeANof6YBYgHDN010rLDC9M3SDanTlXxhlO4Vs1QWEupO3o7JhbaB3J-dLFCoAMCNpTE2QT_jK32RK97W79H5WILjlake_0kwaYHWe5P2AQxNp8u0lb-3uNPp9FMU0FECovvEwXtVRrYoz01_dwh5-tkgOzsdj8hxJ2d_h0JQpgQB4z64eEp83k4BwXpcxdy15Qwy5tp1hRSqoNvU9f25_NkyCr55rgtOjIntZO3UPsjHp3lHKN3G-0ijpz6FoLbH4lO0CvxW20uCo7CpUciNd0mtwIh-Gj7psep0XTjBmFSAHfQnRc_uOUCqZjWa_pbxrgkP3nhJfwHdi5QYr9uyyndH4h9ANkK18dNT9rZtI82x5bckJf3iD-YMzktHX2RmlCU0eoh_ABTf6QDeyzEGYc-RD-l9k1tOxXcV-SKtPO3V7umQonHFAnkVk65hbXPL6E2qdXkje3S6vefzvX30x0vqBIdPYP7iz9aOp_0D2rl_QwDUuUSBVnNdam0x2Avnm9yN9xv_91XpZ3wEk=w788-h1398-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iDBvEgKgbfbizntv38LgX3F_de3JMy3nrIl4UIY_xN9mT9v7rflQWSh0tnrUZznco1McIiSdczzPpWxVjGEMbDnEhrvxOgISOzWFNARN1f7kAiP-LOFrQEVDIOT2iGwjHEbnzZ5aymzztLlfE5sFBu8tCAiiV0qK_ebkXUVDsLEVJXMjvML-12pjeRBkDcNQO7qmPWsRAAK90IEeppSdRsgLuu_wnllyCW6xT9PrGzkLPqRUd3JXZiWqd_OCxVaqDKQIupjB3ACc2Dg5IbPqt5hPAY-2enUEAoKPh_CmRSEYNwU-KdLnRh20i_J_gSoKFVmD3Xu4A53NRCOApMYW64mFYcYYyxgR8kC0r5JHoxl3wozN9EXk8gBW5E8hpHmH9nQKh_kRTFkvGHjyKS7qCLmO3bKz5nuYn0qjzR4zeHoyRVo5F9I9e0JWEehhf8_Ckks4TMAEG0FHuj-tBtmYyE4lQm8t4iChtTCHXOAng9hVaY1h4A_zPrRi9qqmPT44T75wCC1JgIjSM9Fyy38dETOsK8bFf4UVIe86BjBTy0NXQiz3tIw9s6wTiNsUW5bna8T4UbrMs7WhbxThdC0FfiPw_MTOigFV0r06XgQ=w2486-h1398-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XcwrDAOYE0PLfdOq02xE7OS8u2QieNk4i-iK1CX1qUNEeD8E3MrRStnObsVUaPVdu_0oRn9NaIJ8lOJyt51l4H9E5IJRVJb7wryt-RNDQ_86M-0iX6piOv-M5AWuVONO7znYtQdGf4ZwCPyN5NHsFjfcoGfghsW7U5rJw-sIcl1uFbWg8tJzlzYtuWfBp_JXCYuk9b0NJLqGHLz22HPYj-tt67fI_7s0bNmISF25Bxie8BuBYoNRfOo0SIew9ifo1JuEXyoWnNfhSuExHlrS3jjdC6_fV7vuu2FGPbXyiTuKjtKoqK9fioaNjs7CEwUwEQUAPA74W0hQlBsx6tAOa9ejt88HbpTIPdSBKvEa_4AEByFoFQeLHTzb4RqKXxs13E-9pACqsuf9GLphHZf0TsErRaoxATg84F6IZ2_q0dRVe01SIHNutDKpcmxnfROT5tSxGqNWOPfJ2jtKSWPqgsBruv3jwk08aRn_D8UlYXUr3toEqGGjy-4XY5JnQfiMQ0YSvOgeUo43gzlbW0iCTgu2VMBUJuL3459irij6jkCnCR-2lCFpLK8t69xC5FQ99fHy4Bcfjuxtd6hJmGH1GRvEEK7Mx-DKiPnSkOA=w2486-h1398-no)
The original painter assured me that he used 2K paint on my bike. I'm 100% certain the base colour was 2K because I supplied it to him; I'm assuming he used 2K clear. In any case, the paint discoloured and peeled. This painter I recently used has an exceptional reputation in Toronto as being one of the best. He has informed me that he repaired all the damage and used a 2K epoxy primer/sealer followed by water-based 2K base colour and clear. We discussed the damage when I picked up the tank and he thinks there was leakage around the seal between the tank skin and filler cap base. This interface is now sealed with the epoxy primer/sealer coat so time will tell if the same damage returns.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 08, 2018, 09:13:50 AM
I have two tanks to do now, and I'm looking at spending some time thoroughly cleaning that seam and possibly sealing it with JB weld which appears to have good fuel resistance. Together with a good cleaning of the filler cap mounting surface, a new gasket and 2k urethane clear I hope to have paint that won't fail there a second time.
Post by: beemrdon on February 09, 2018, 01:24:09 AM
I changed the clutch cable. Luckily it gave out in the garage. It took me 2 hours to change it. The next time, if there is one, it will take me 20 minutes max.
Post by: John Lang on February 09, 2018, 09:48:47 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on February 10, 2018, 02:07:35 AM
Went out to Ace to get some ABS cement for fairing repairs. I've read that one can use a soldering iron to 'weld' the cracks and use ABS cement as filler. Sounds like a good plan. All I need to do is match the paint.
I also plan to renew the intake bushings, so I need the fairing off anyway.
Bike ran well with no problem shifting (except once at a stop light when I instinctively moved my right foot up to engage first.)
Post by: Inge K. on February 10, 2018, 04:54:36 AM
Went out to Ace to get some ABS cement for fairing repairs. I've read that one can use a soldering iron to 'weld' the cracks and use ABS cement as filler.
Your fairing isn't made of ABS, but pressure molded glass reinforced polyester.
Look for kits for repairing this kind of boats.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 10, 2018, 08:31:53 AM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9018.msg87752.html#msg87752
Post by: BlitzenGruv on February 11, 2018, 01:43:08 AM
Would it be best to repair the fairing in place on the bike to avoid flexing upon re-installation?
Post by: beemrdon on February 11, 2018, 03:03:34 AM
................86 degrees and sunny in Death Valley Friday...
Post by: holmesy on February 11, 2018, 05:32:25 AM
1994 K1100LT
Now to figure out how to pull the bloody thing apart to change the fork seals. I have a sneaking suspicion the fairing won't be going back on. Nor will the bars
Nor the instruments
and the forks will probably end up through the top clamp (if thats even possible)
Flame away, I'm a big boy.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 11, 2018, 09:09:25 AM
I would also suggest that before you start to work on your fairing, you do a little practice mixing resin and applying the glass to a piece of plywood. I can't emphasize how important it is to measure your resin and to carefully count the drops of hardener. That is where 99.99% of the problems with doing glass work come from.
Once you learn how to do these repairs and find a source for a good match in touch up paint you will experience the liberating freedom from fear of dropping your bike.
Post by: Snowman on February 11, 2018, 08:57:56 PM
Post by: billday on February 12, 2018, 08:28:50 PM
I have a sneaking suspicion the fairing won't be going back on. Nor will the bars
Nor the instruments
and the forks will probably end up through the top clamp (if thats even possible)
Flame away, I'm a big boy.
It will be hard to ride without handlebars. But, give it a try and let us know (with pictures).
Post by: Martin on February 12, 2018, 09:13:13 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Skunky on February 17, 2018, 11:34:59 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 18, 2018, 04:34:51 PM
First up is going to be Cheetos for it's annual tune up and to repair some damage when another woman driver backed into it while it was parked out in front of my favorite watering hole. So far, I have the bad fairing bits off and a bit of filler applied. While the filler cures and I get up the ambition to sand it I did oil changes on the engine and forks, and checked the throttle position switch and balanced the throttle bodies.
Also had to replace the rubber caps on the throttle body vacuum ports as both of them were badly cracked. That probably did more to smooth out the idle than balancing them as they were not that far out.
Not much to do on her this year as she only accumulated about 4,000 miles because I spent most of my time on Moby Brick. Next up is a brake bleed, lube the stands and some other moving bits, and do a good inspection of the bike. Will need a good cleaning when the weather gets warmer.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 19, 2018, 11:32:52 PM
I'm thinking that those cracked vacuum caps leaked enough to make starting difficult with the throttle closed even though they hardly affected the idle or driveability. Glad I noticed them.
If your bike is reluctant to start, you might want to check them.
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 12:41:52 PM
In other news, my fuel tank has a leak. [emoji15][emoji853]
Now to figure out the best course of action.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on February 22, 2018, 02:40:29 PM
In other news, my fuel tank has a leak. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji15.png)(https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji853.png)Redkote (http://damonq.com/red-kote.html). :yippee:
Now to figure out the best course of action.
Post by: Chaos on February 22, 2018, 03:11:56 PM
Checked the valves and they’re all good. Yay! (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
In other news, my fuel tank has a leak. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji15.png)(https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji853.png)
So air stays in your tires but gas leaks out your tank? :hehehe You're probably talking about some other valves but I've had a schrader launch itself out of the stem and try to poke my eye out. Had good luck with Permatex gas tank patch for a quick and dirty fix.
Post by: Laitch on February 22, 2018, 03:20:52 PM
. . . I've had a schrader launch itself out of the stem and try to poke my eye out.Right there is the main reason to lower your helmet's face shield when checking tire pressure. High velocity, windblown pigeon droppings comprise the other reason.
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 03:21:59 PM
So air stays in your tires but gas leaks out your tank? :hehehe You're probably talking about some other valves but I've had a schrader launch itself out of the stem and try to poke my eye out. Had good luck with Permatex gas tank patch for a quick and dirty fix.[emoji23]
Intake and exhaust valves measure good. [emoji106]
For the gas tank, I’ve got one vote for Permatex and one for Red Kote.
Now I need to pinpoint the leak location and plan the attack.
Post by: Nine80seven on February 22, 2018, 03:26:57 PM
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/3b58945b0dbe033d14b279dc47f13573.jpg)
Post by: Nine80seven on February 22, 2018, 04:06:00 PM
Was lucky, so far, with this bike. Everything I get into or open up since acquired, looks better than expected. The tank/pump being the last. The bottom seams always seam bad, especially the left side under the pump holder where it can't be sean. The red stuff is redkote which may prevent the usual water collection point/corrosion. Fingers crossed, always keeping an eye on this stuff. Never park it and forget about it till summertime. Don't know everything about these K-bikes, learning curve is ongoing. Pays yer cash, reduce yer stash. Still thinking about the infamous rattling at idle somewhere around the tranny? Maybe those eight rivets? Oh-oh.
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 05:11:35 PM
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 05:13:37 PM
Post by: Martin on February 22, 2018, 05:28:29 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on February 22, 2018, 05:43:58 PM
A buddy talked to Kevin Cameron about my leaks and he recommended filling the seam and holes with molten lead. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji15.png) Anyone tried that before?:hehehe
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 06:04:21 PM
They used to lead steel tanks, I don't think lead will stick to aluminium. You can get solder for aluminium, but I've found it difficult to use, lot's of practice would help. A proficient welder would be able to weld up the holes, or you can go the putty or two part solution.Probably end up going with Red Kote. Lead sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on February 22, 2018, 06:36:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 22, 2018, 07:57:34 PM
Now I run whatever is available when I need it until late Fall when I switch over to the good stuff for the last weeks of the season. That flushes out the moonshine so when I lay the bikes up for the winter all I have to do is add some Stabil and Techron. About every two or three weeks during the winter I run each bike for 10 minutes to circulate the Techron and warm up the oil. So far the bikes seem to like it.
Post by: Martin on February 22, 2018, 08:23:55 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 08:40:56 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/1b229ec88b49056f365440219d523aad.jpg)
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 08:50:05 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on February 22, 2018, 09:07:51 PM
Not sure of all the exact politics behind it but ethanol doesn’t seem good for anyone.Ethanol, a product of plant fermentation, is pure alcohol and a useful disinfectant. Among its many other uses, in small doses it's an analgesic. In larger doses it makes all saloon patrons attractive at closing time. It is a renewable fuel for cooking. It's an effective solvent. In specific blends, it helps to retard freezing. Use of it in gasoline lessened the amount of imported crude oil needed in the USA. Ethanol production helped support farms and created economic booms in some areas devoted to growing it for fuel.
Things aren't always what they seem, especially if you're confusing ethanol with methanol.
Post by: Chaos on February 22, 2018, 09:20:23 PM
In larger doses it makes all saloon patrons attractive at closing time.
The correct term for that is beer goggles, not to be confused with beer googles, which would be drunken web searching.
Post by: woodgeek on February 22, 2018, 09:21:35 PM
Things aren't always what they seem, especially if you're confusing ethanol with methanol.I’m good at confusing things. Psychiatrists and psychologists, ethanol and methanol. Thank god the proper stuff comes labeled with a proof label and a government pregnancy warning.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 22, 2018, 11:14:08 PM
Unfortunately, it not only replaces crude oil in the production of fuel, it can absorb water which replaces the gasoline in the fuel you buy at the pump. This is good for the oil companies because water is a lot cheaper than actual gasoline. It's one of the reasons your fuel economy drops as much as 10% on this stuff.
Another down side is that the water in your fuel and the extra oxygen atoms in the ethanol also work to oxidize things like fuel tanks and engine parts(oxidize is a nice word for corrosion A.K.A. rust).
Ethanol is a fancy name for alcohol. Alcohol is a pretty good solvent. One of the things it dissolves and carries away is chemicals known as plasticizers. Plasticizers are added to things like seals and hoses to keep them flexible, which is usually important to make these things work properly. Have a fuel hose that is as stiff as a piece of steel pipe? Thank a farmer in Iowa for ethanol. Have a fiberglass fuel tank in your boat that has dissolved and gummed up your $9000 engine? Yep thank that same farmer. Your BMW vibration damper turned to goo? Yep, thank a farmer.
Last, not only does ethanol do all the cool stuff above, but it actually requires more energy to make than it provides as fuel for our vehicles.
One thing that really stokes my sense of irony is that when I am travelling on I-80 across Iowa, the prime source of corn for ethanol, it is the easiest place in all the states I have been in to get no-corn fuel. I've been in gas stations where only one pump out of 6 has 10% ethanol fuel, the rest being the "good stuff". Must be they're selling so much of that crap to the rest of us they don't have enough for themselves.
Post by: jakgieger on February 22, 2018, 11:39:51 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 22, 2018, 11:41:24 PM
It's one of the reasons your fuel economy drops as much as 10% on this stuff.That could also be stated as "fuel economy decreases 10% or less." I haven't tested that assertion but it's certain that if users don't adapt to a fuel's characteristics, disappointment will be likely to follow. If people want easy access to straight gasoline and pork tenderloin, Iowa sounds like the place. Fuel economy will decrease as weight is gained though.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 23, 2018, 12:12:37 AM
Working in the marine trades for the past 12 years, I have seen and had to deal with the results of ethanol in fuel. It's a shame that the damage I've seen usually has to be borne by the owner who purchased fuel in good faith that destroyed his boat. In some cases, owners have been successful in getting insurance to cover their loss, but not always, and even with insurance, all owners pay increased premiums to cover the damage done.
Ethanol may have been a good idea 20 years ago, but with modern drilling techniques and discoveries, the U.S. has actually become a net exporter of oil and oil products. In constant dollars, crude oil is cheaper now than in the 1960's. Without the subsidies, ethanol is actually more expensive than crude oil by a fair amount.
Post by: woodgeek on February 23, 2018, 01:10:29 AM
Without the subsidies, ethanol is actually more expensive than crude oil by a fair amount.Ethanol is a also head scratcher because it takes more energy to produce it than it returns during combustion—sort of like eating celery. 🤷♂️ Personally, I’d rather see the corn be used to fatten pigs, chicken or beef. [emoji23]
I need to move to Iowa so I can get me some pure gas. [emoji106]
Post by: Chaos on February 23, 2018, 01:18:42 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 23, 2018, 05:45:59 AM
No idea if that's true but it would be nice not to have to worry my old chipper & rototiller disintegrating.Worry would only be a hobby if stabilized fuel were used in those engines, it's good for about a year. That's been my experience anyway. After that, the fuel should be drained out and put in the Ural. :giggles
If the last filling of stabilized fuel in my snowblower hasn't been used in the winter, it gets mixed with the fresh fuel in my F250, which runs well regardless. I put fresh fuel in the snowblower's tank for warm weather and start it once a month. The same for the generator only it gets run for 15 minutes semi-monthly. I store only gallon batches of stabilized oil-mixed chainsaw fuel. They are always used within a month. The only engine parts I've needed to replace are fuel filters, spark plugs and starter ropes.
Adaptation is all it is—candle-lighting instead of darkness-cursing. :yes
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 23, 2018, 08:13:31 AM
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Post by: John Lang on February 23, 2018, 08:45:14 AM
Post by: jakgieger on February 23, 2018, 09:11:48 AM
Post by: RobP on February 23, 2018, 09:19:14 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 23, 2018, 10:01:40 AM
According to Michael Pollen in Omnivore's Dilemma, USDA should be renamed the Department of Iowa. Cattle are ruminants, evolved to eat grass, not corn.Iowa is the largest producer of hogs in this country—for good or ill, John. 41% of the Iowa corn crop is used for ethanol fuel but 26% is used for animal feed. Of that percentage, hogs consume 2.6 times more corn feed than either cattle, or chickens. It all gets complicated when animals are killed for humans to survive, and even thrive.
10% gasohol works well in machinery if it's used like gasohol and not gasoline. All the sanctimonious hand-wringing and ineffectual whining in the world won't make a difference in the outcome, especially when some of the hand-wringer/whiners are receiving dividends from petroleum stock in their retirement portfolios.
What will make a difference is a First World mandate to its citizens that bicycling be the sole mode of mechanical transportation, vegetarianism be the sole mode of sustenance and virtual reality be the sole mode of travel. After that, the resulting wave of suicides will reduce consumption, conserve resources and redirect production to less chemically-based products—except the production of embalming fluid.
Maybe green burial should be added to the mandates.
Post by: Laitch on February 23, 2018, 10:05:33 AM
Does Stabil or any other additive address the ethanol corrosion issue? I have a couple of yard tools used infrequently where the carb gets gunked up with corrosion.Yes, Stabil works well but it is still up to you use the fuel within a year regardless of its being in a machine or in a container. Machines are tools to be used; they aren't storage vessels.
Post by: bizzaro on February 23, 2018, 11:05:50 AM
I can only get gas with ethanol in my area. Does Stabil or any other additive address the ethanol corrosion issue? I have a couple of yard tools used infrequently where the carb gets gunked up with corrosion. I'd also like to keep my K100RS tank clean.
[/quote
https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IL (https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IL)
Here Ya Go. I Don't know your state well, but I hope this helps.
Post by: Martin on February 23, 2018, 01:36:45 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: blackie1 on February 24, 2018, 02:46:49 AM
a couple more spline pics for general consumption
last owner from 20k to 40k was unaware they required greasing
and looking at the condition of the driveshaft to final drive i may guess they have not been lubed since leaving the factory
i forgot to take pic of final drive splines but they looked ok the only real wear is at the rear of the driveshaft
re lubed with 50% moly grease
Post by: John Lang on February 24, 2018, 03:31:14 PM
Post by: bizzaro on February 25, 2018, 01:59:52 PM
There is no corn free gas here in Ohio short of av or racing. I try to keep all my engines in fresh gas but it's difficult with some of the yard stuff that only gets used a couple times a year. One reason I heard it is still subsidized is since the primaries start in Iowa, any candidate who wants to have a prayer of a chance has to kiss up to the ethanol industry. No idea if that's true but it would be nice not to have to worry my old chipper & rototiller disintegrating.
https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH (https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH)
Post by: John Lang on February 25, 2018, 03:34:40 PM
[/size]
[/size]Your DS splines are definitely worn. You say their FD mates are in better shape. Here is a photo of my FD splines just before they stripped out their mates on the DS and all gears became neutral.[size=78%]
[/size]The U-joint splines don't wear very much. [size=78%]
Post by: woodgeek on February 25, 2018, 03:39:15 PM
Installed a new fan. The old one sounded rough so this was a preemptive install.
Post by: woodgeek on February 25, 2018, 11:23:27 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/450117b3f34a68e8285af9f1a85a1b91.jpg)
Repaired a broken piece of the tail cowel with JB Weld. I still need to sand it down and prep for painting.
The previous owner didn’t have the seat stay affixed properly so the seat hinge snapped off a piece of fiberglass. He’d tried to glue the fiberglass and of course that didn’t work. I had to rasp off his old glue to get the pieces to fit together anywhere near flush.
Post by: bizzaro on March 01, 2018, 08:15:33 AM
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2018, 08:19:35 AM
Out of Winter Storage, to begin a very early season! :riding:That's a steep incline, Biz. It's a good thing you maintain your brakes.
Post by: bizzaro on March 01, 2018, 08:25:35 AM
Tried to flip the photos, but it doesn't seem to take from an iPhone!? :dunno2:
Post by: Laitch on March 01, 2018, 09:13:06 AM
Tried to flip the photos, but it doesn't seem to take from an iPhone!? :dunno2:Try this fix (https://www.geek.com/apple/why-iphone-pictures-flip-when-emailed-and-how-to-fix-it-1602306/).
Post by: woodgeek on March 01, 2018, 09:38:53 AM
Tried to flip the photos, but it doesn't seem to take from an iPhone!? :dunno2:My iPhone’s photo editor lets me rotate photos.[emoji106]
Post by: bizzaro on March 01, 2018, 09:51:03 AM
I kinda like it. Nocturnal Alpine Motocross for touring bikes!
Post by: alabrew on March 01, 2018, 12:40:40 PM
I next removed the alternator to replace the rubber nuts. It rattled on startup but quieted down once warm. Did not feel any play in the drive or alternator. I found a mouse nest in the airbox - smelly! Got to take the bottom off to wash it out. Since I had that out, decided to go ahead and replace the Crankcase Vent Hose as it was questionable. Fuel lines look like they were replaced at some point. I did find another cracked rubber cap and replaced it too.
I noticed that the 4 pin connector cover was falling apart but have not found a source for a new one - anyone?
Post by: Filmcamera on March 01, 2018, 12:52:57 PM
Post by: Inge K. on March 01, 2018, 01:00:43 PM
Each Pin to body was 1.88.
That is the correct metod to measure it, as it is a double element sensor with common ground.
(one element for the heat management relay, the other for the injection ECU to calculate the mix).
I noticed that the 4 pin connector cover was falling apart but have not found a source for a new one - anyone?
If you have the connector in the front left corner of the tank, you find a unused connector in the relay box
(it's for the factory alarm).
Post by: Inge K. on March 01, 2018, 01:04:41 PM
The third reply on this thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10830.msg93715.html#msg93715 mentions one that has been used successfully as far as I know.
Alabrew have a different connector, unless it's a late -85.
Post by: alabrew on March 01, 2018, 02:47:54 PM
This temp. sensor has been a headache. So confusing as to which chart belongs to which bike and how to test each one. I never found what reading I needed for pin to body. Fortunately, the new part is cheap enough to throw a new one in there and job done once.
Looking closer, the fuel line from the rail to the pressure regulator has factory clamps so is probably original. I have the tubing, so might as well change it for piece of mind.
Post by: Inge K. on March 01, 2018, 03:34:07 PM
I'm not needing the connector, it is the rubber dust cover
Which connector do we speak about? The only one I remember which have a rubber cover is the
HES Connector under the tank but that is five pin.
This temp. sensor has been a headache. So confusing as to which chart belongs to which bike and how to test each one. I never found what reading I needed for pin to body.
You're correct about 2.5K ohm @ 20oC.
Post by: alabrew on March 02, 2018, 11:21:47 AM
OK, I really don't know how many pins are in the connector, I thought it was the four pin like I read about. Sounds like on this '85, the 4 pin is the connector front left under and into the tank that has a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around it to hold in in. Found it that way and seemed to make sense to put it back together that way.
It is a multi wire connector under the tank. Not too concerned about the cover, but I'm under there and figure it is on there for a reason. Curiously, the open end faces forward but it is jammed up on top of the air box. This is a summer commute bike and only likely to encounter rain on the ride home.
Post by: Inge K. on March 02, 2018, 12:04:47 PM
OK, I really don't know how many pins are in the connector, I thought it was the four pin like I read about. Sounds like on this '85, the 4 pin is the connector front left under and into the tank that has a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around it to hold in in.
This sensor have no rubber dust boot from factory.
There is no connectivity between the pin to body.
Then you have been given a wrong sensor, do you do like Martin and shop with this guy?........
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2018, 12:28:07 PM
Then you have been given a wrong sensor, do you do like Martin and shop with this guy?........Building cultural bridges one returned item at a time. :yes
Post by: alabrew on March 02, 2018, 04:03:01 PM
They don't list one for the 89v1 (the K1 and K100 4 valve, and it is still available from BMW), so I don't think I got the wrong one.
I believe the box said it was made in Spain.
The dust cover I was looking for is like this: 61 13 1 459 048 PROTECTION CAP
but at $21...
Post by: Inge K. on March 02, 2018, 05:38:18 PM
, so I don't think I got the wrong one.
If you don't measure any connectivity from both of the terminals to ground (housing), you haven't got the
correct one.
The dust cover I was looking for is like this: 61 13 1 459 048 PROTECTION CAP
but at $21...
Would guess it's the one for the HES Connector, it's the only one I know on the bike which look like this.
The one for the power outlet looks similar but is bit shorter, and should be in a different diagram.
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2018, 05:57:59 PM
They don't list one for the 89v1 (the K1 and K100 4 valve, and it is still available from BMW), so I don't think I got the wrong one.This one is listed for those years and models (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/tempsens-k184.htm). Look familiar?
Post by: Inge K. on March 02, 2018, 06:30:31 PM
I believe the box said it was made in Spain.
Could be that they have put all the different temp sensors into the boxes, after the red wine siesta on Friday.
Post by: alabrew on March 02, 2018, 07:25:54 PM
Where did you find that? I looked under - You are here: Home (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/) > K Bike (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1603.htm) > Switches & Sensors (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1641.htm) I had looked at all the sensors under K bikes. I looked at all the temperature sensors from the Parts Catalog.I even searched EME with the BMW number 13 62 2 242 184 from MAX and it did not find it. I searched with just the last three, no go.
None the less, the one I got has a black plug. I'll have to contact EME and see what they say...
Nice, I can edit. Let me apologize, I retested once I got home and it IS testing as it should. Don't know if i just had a brain fart on the meter or what. 2.47k ohms pin to body at room temp. Both pins together seem to be about both sides combined. The old one is off more comparing each pin to body.
I'll have to stop at the shop tomorrow for fork oil as I forgot to change it when I did all the other fluids and I'll get it all back together on Sunday.
Thanks for the help and sorry for the mistakes.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on March 02, 2018, 11:54:31 PM
I just hope that my old back can handle the strap-ons handlebars.
Post by: lysy40 on March 03, 2018, 01:06:12 PM
Post by: Inge K. on March 03, 2018, 01:15:59 PM
It would fit your 75S but the upper mounting is a bit different to fit to the RT fairing air outlet (higher).
It could be that this make a conflict with the S fairing, but I don't think so.
You would need longer engine front mounting screws when fitting these bars.
Post by: Nine80seven on March 04, 2018, 02:04:49 PM
Post by: mophead on March 04, 2018, 06:22:42 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 04, 2018, 10:26:57 PM
Back to redkote. . . . Has anyone coated a whole K tank?This member has (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8283.msg66744.html#msg66744). Consider sending him a personal message for details.
Post by: Nine80seven on March 05, 2018, 10:26:55 AM
Post by: beemrdon on March 09, 2018, 11:23:44 PM
Post by: Skunky on March 10, 2018, 05:33:58 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180310/b08f2722cff056561a59de2764179d86.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: alexis291 on March 11, 2018, 04:13:58 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mg1 on March 13, 2018, 05:40:12 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 13, 2018, 06:26:14 AM
Shouldn't be too dear to ship to OZ.
Post by: mg1 on March 13, 2018, 06:47:55 AM
Post by: Martin on March 13, 2018, 06:58:32 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 13, 2018, 07:42:08 AM
Post by: CNRED on March 13, 2018, 07:58:16 AM
Engone is running well at ths time.
Back Brakes non-existent. Yesterday I rebuilt the rear master cylinder and the rear caliper. Parts were a little on the pricy side, but it turned out to be the easiest brake rebuild I have ever done. Rear brakes work excellently, now on the the fronts.
Post by: alexis291 on March 13, 2018, 02:47:07 PM
Today I finally started trying to isolate the reason for my speedo's wayward behaviour.
Have you checked it’s not the backing lifting up and touching the needle? I had this on my tacho. It was a relief to realise my clutch wasn’t slipping!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mg1 on March 13, 2018, 05:32:27 PM
Have you checked it’s not the backing lifting up and touching the needle?Could you explain that a bit further? I'm about to pull the instrument cluster....
thanks
other Martin
in the sunny Riverina
Post by: Martin on March 13, 2018, 05:51:42 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: alexis291 on March 13, 2018, 06:27:52 PM
Could you explain that a bit further? I'm about to pull the instrument cluster....
thanks
other Martin
in the sunny Riverina
Behind the needles there is a thin, plastic film on which the graduations and numbers are printed. On my K1100 it warped slightly and lifted up so that the tacho needle touched it. All that was needed to sort it out was to slightly loosen the screws that hold it down, smooth it out and then tighten them down again. You need to remove the guts of the cluster to do this. I know others have had this problem too because I got the idea from another post on the site. I have had to do this twice so maybe a spot of glue under the film might be worth considering. Of course this may not be your problem at all…!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mg1 on March 21, 2018, 09:06:04 PM
You might remember from a few days ago that I was trying to work out what was going on with my speedo, which has a mind of its own from about 100km/h onwards. In the intervening days, my tame auto sparky made up a cable for me to use with Karamba (I do some of that stuff myself, but I'm too much of an amateur to trust myself with such things on the K) and today I had a chance to hook it all up and do some testing.
First a tip from experience: read the damn instructions. Kept wondering why the needle would plummet back to the stop when I hit the higher speed buttons, then I turned up the volume on the Karamba connection to max (as instructed) and it worked like it should.
Once that problem was resolved, I found that the speedo reacts to Karamba just as expected, no problems at all. In fact I suspect someone's been at the adjustment pot at some time in the past as the thing is dead nuts accurate.
Which I think leaves me with the sender in the final drive. Unless anyone has a bright idea to the contrary, it looks like I'm buying a new one.
regards to all (and thanks for the suggestions)
other Martin
in the sunny but windy Riverina
Post by: rbm on March 21, 2018, 09:16:13 PM
Post by: mg1 on March 21, 2018, 09:26:19 PM
Post by: rbm on March 21, 2018, 09:42:53 PM
- you've eliminated the speedo and its electronic as a possible cause through the use of Karamba
- you've performed maintenance on the sender to eliminate stray iron filings as a possible cause
- you've cleaned the electrical contacts to ensure good conductivity and eliminate the connector as a possible cause
The sender depends on a phenomena called variable reluctance to work. This is achieved by having a 6-toothed iron cog rotate below the sender's pickup. See the sender in the cutaway below and the toothed wheel below it.
(https://www.flyingbrick.de/assets/images/Tachogeber.jpg)
I'm not a mechanical engineer but I'm wondering if the problem is mechanical in nature and not electrical. The thought I'm having is that at high speeds, the toothed wheel not being securely attached to the final drive gear is revolving faster than the final drive gears and registering more than 6 pulses per revolution. There might be nothing to this theory, but I can't think of another reason the speedometer is accurate at low speeds and off at high speed. Can you check that the toothed cog is not loose?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 24, 2018, 09:59:08 AM
Going to be a table with two box fans pulling spray down through filters. Parts will be on a turntable so I can easily spin them to get all angles. Small parts will be suspended on frames made from PVC pipe. Still have to build an enclosure around it to control the airflow.
Now I just need a little warm dry weather.
Post by: parabrick on April 05, 2018, 11:00:17 PM
Post by: woodgeek on April 06, 2018, 12:25:33 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/9f2e654252d581acef3d7a1e710a816b.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/9bbeeff74c4161ab1e2dd8743bfc5e96.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/98b4d8a55530fba5a9623352d7d1f08a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/0811052524272bc24a9c551a66407c7a.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/33400733b97ac161e0420f4e35826c34.jpg)
Post by: beemrdon on April 06, 2018, 12:45:52 AM
Post by: johnny on April 06, 2018, 07:14:10 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 06, 2018, 08:13:47 AM
woodgeeks loctite 8012 moly pdf... is it 60% moly... you decide...
Molybdenum 60-100% (exact amount a trade secret)
Looks pretty good!
Post by: bizzaro on April 06, 2018, 08:59:02 AM
Post by: woodgeek on April 06, 2018, 11:07:04 AM
That shit needs to be tacky n hard to remove. Before ya go out tonight with your best girl (if girls is your preference of course), paint your face up like a warrior with that shit. Proceed to shower up and get ready for an evening of romance. If After showering, you still look like Mel Gibson going into battle in Brave Heart, and your best girl is ROTFLHAO, saying she ain't going anywhere till you wash that shit off. It is prolly good stuff. And if A week later you still ain't been laid cause she can't get past your face. Well then you are either married, or it that shit is really good. Use it on all your splines!! :2thumbup:
Well, I figure there’s more moly on there now than there was before. I only ride a few thousand miles a year so I have some time to ride before the lab gets back to me with results from the moly content analysis. If it’s below 60%, I’ll sell my queered-out custom K, since my shock mount stud is bent. When I sell it, do I have to disclose the low moly content? Which is worse, low moly content or low sperm content. Braveheart would say low moly since he doesn’t want that shit to wash off. [emoji23]
Post by: alexis291 on April 07, 2018, 10:47:45 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180407/f22f187a23e5a4d2adc19217225edbad.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180407/43279f4fe310bd6668dabd6cb5b5c482.jpg)
Post by: johnny on April 07, 2018, 12:43:57 PM
two things the majority of the time... tior pressure and suspension... since running at sidewall maximum pressure and installing new fork springs and and a new rear shock i have seen even tior wear front and back... thats holds true across 3 eleven hundert rs motobricks...
j o
Post by: alexis291 on April 07, 2018, 01:50:31 PM
Post by: johnny on April 07, 2018, 01:53:56 PM
i run maximum pressure as listed on the sidewall of the front tior and the maximum pressure as listed on the sidewall of the rear tior... check the pressure and adjust as necessary when they are cold... before every ride... no exceptions...
i started running max so i would always feel the max sensation... some will say less grippy at max... i say if you aints sliding... you aints riding...
j o
Post by: alexis291 on April 07, 2018, 06:07:35 PM
classic answer
so about 60psi then?
K1100RS 1995
Oxford, UK
Post by: Filmcamera on April 07, 2018, 06:38:20 PM
Post by: woodgeek on April 08, 2018, 09:06:29 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/56b2468ea305c19325ff2b527b9a5e71.jpg)
Post by: roborider on April 11, 2018, 01:05:38 AM
Since then, I've added the Rifle Superbike fairing, a tail tank and topcase, painted both to match, updated the logo badges, installed a flashing brake light, and replaced the left side crash bar. Looks pretty sweet, if I do say so myself!
Next is to install light relay for direct line from battery to driving lights, and get the seat re-covered. And that's all she needs. [emoji41] All that's left is to ride every paved road in Utah this summer!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/83d22924ea9b7586bf866608648eb4ed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/72f8ee83b6f19946713008825774a6c5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/54e3c8503930c39433ecfc4e49ef918a.jpg)
Post by: bizzaro on April 11, 2018, 06:15:05 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 11, 2018, 08:21:59 AM
All that's left is to ride every paved road in Utah this summer!:clap:
Post by: parabrick on April 11, 2018, 11:52:52 AM
Here is the link to the manual fan switch I added to the brick. Works like a champ, and far easier than I had anticipated. Thanks for all th info from the folks out there!
Post by: Filmcamera on April 11, 2018, 12:27:55 PM
You need to change the dropbox in the URL to dropbox - I think it is some weird site thing that changes it to dropbox hence the space I added
I just removed the whack in my browser after clicking the link and the video played fine
Post by: parabrick on April 11, 2018, 02:20:57 PM
Post by: parabrick on April 11, 2018, 02:34:44 PM
ONE More Time!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 11, 2018, 04:03:21 PM
Just finished prettying up the funky bits. Assembly tomorrow and then some yee haaa.
Post by: Martin on April 11, 2018, 04:23:38 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bizzaro on April 11, 2018, 06:22:58 PM
Hey I see your not using a paint booth, and you seem to be painting something all the time. Apparently the results are satisfying? Is that with a gun? It is about time for a face lift on my old girl. What do you prep the surface with?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 12, 2018, 01:15:56 AM
About the paint. For small stuff I don't use a booth, but I'm building one to do the parts for Moby Brick Too. I'm almost done with it, and once I know how it works will do a write up on it. I have a couple of Harbor Freight guns, but I'm too lazy to use them because they are more trouble to clean. Mostly I use rattle cans and a cheap Badger 250 airbrush.
I suppose if there is a demand for it, I could do a write up on how I paint parts. I have it down to a pretty painless process, at least for me. I don't keep my bikes in concours condition, but they look pretty good up to five feet.
Post by: Laitch on April 12, 2018, 05:13:49 AM
I've been caught out pretty frequently of late.I wasn't kidding then and I'm reminding you now. Bad juju follows your current avatar. Ask your neighborhood santero and find out if I'm wrong. :grimreaper:Bad juju, I'm telling you. You should dump that avatar and seek a different personal transformation.Bizz, I swear I'm snake bit. In the past 200 miles of riding I've had all three bikes take hits.
Post by: bizzaro on April 12, 2018, 06:24:13 AM
Quote
I'm building one to do the parts for Moby Brick too. Mostly I use rattle cans
Are you resurrecting Moby Brick, or working on another one? I thought it got destroyed?
And do you have a preferred brand o rattle can paint? Let me guess, Rustolium,? I may give it a whirl. Some of my bike is in need of cosmetic work.
Post by: billday on April 12, 2018, 06:57:08 AM
I wasn't kidding then and I'm reminding you now. Bad juju follows your current avatar. Ask your neighborhood santero and find out if I'm wrong. :grimreaper:
Laitch is on to something here.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 12, 2018, 09:08:54 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 12, 2018, 10:23:39 AM
It's worth a try.Which Garmin is that? Not that I can ride here now. I'm snow- and mud-bound for a few weeks longer.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 12, 2018, 11:11:14 AM
I like the posted speed limit display. It lets me calculate if I'm just up for a summons or going to jail.
The display is interesting. I was at the top of a pass in Montana on the Beartooth looking down on a steep winding downhill with about a dozen switchbacks. The speed limit display indicated 70mph!
Post by: Laitch on April 12, 2018, 12:48:59 PM
I was at the top of a pass in Montana on the Beartooth looking down on a steep winding downhill with about a dozen switchbacks. The speed limit display indicated 70mph!Eugenics lives!
Thanks for the information.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 12, 2018, 09:11:55 PM
It is much cleaner and better than before, I also used marine two and three pin waterproof connectors so it is still easy to remove the dashpad when needed.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3823-120418210612.jpeg)
Post by: Martin on April 13, 2018, 03:27:45 AM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: blakey on April 15, 2018, 08:41:28 PM
Post by: rbm on April 15, 2018, 08:50:14 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 15, 2018, 09:31:36 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3743.msg96077/topicseen.html#new)
Post by: blakey on April 15, 2018, 09:34:47 PM
Sorry Martin!
I should have known better... :nono
Post by: Martin on April 16, 2018, 12:18:45 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Inge K. on April 16, 2018, 06:27:53 AM
Post by: jj4hm on April 16, 2018, 03:15:47 PM
Post by: blakey on April 16, 2018, 05:41:57 PM
...and I noticed the white zip tie. Cheap shot! :hehehe
Post by: rbm on April 16, 2018, 05:43:37 PM
Post by: blakey on April 16, 2018, 05:49:48 PM
Post by: TX brick on April 17, 2018, 04:05:06 PM
Post by: gofargogo on April 17, 2018, 04:57:01 PM
Post by: gone_ape on April 18, 2018, 05:54:29 PM
Post by: gone_ape on April 18, 2018, 06:07:33 PM
Search DYI paint booths on YouTube and you'll get the idea.
My dimensions were 9'6" long x 7"'6" wide x 7'6"tall. Not only did it fit in my garage, but using these dims allowed the use of (2) 10' x 25' 3 mil plastic sheeting....
One problem I had was a door. Then I found this Tarp Zipper and that completed the project...And it worked!! I did stack 2 filters deep on each exhaust port with bolt & wingnut so when the clogged, the outer of the two filters were easily swapped out.....
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 18, 2018, 06:15:03 PM
I've been stalled waiting for a break in the friggin' snow. I was planning on having the parts painted two weeks ago. At this rate, I'll be lucky to get to them before Memorial day with all the other warm weather jobs that are beginning to pile up around here.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 18, 2018, 06:32:49 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 18, 2018, 07:49:00 PM
And the Ural "Bender".
My favorite reality TV stars.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 19, 2018, 08:48:08 AM
Post by: lysy40 on April 23, 2018, 12:42:47 AM
Post by: herseyb on April 27, 2018, 03:26:34 PM
Sure feels nice! Gotta find out if my taint really can go dawn to dusk with this new saddle soon, sure beats the old low seat I had.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on April 28, 2018, 12:34:33 PM
I was within walking distance of an Autozone where a very friendly and helpful counter person helped me find a battery that I could make fit, and I took the Odyssey back to Batteries Plus this morning. It tested bad, and Batteries Plus handed me a new battery no questions asked.
Autozone said I could bring the their battery back if the Odyssey was under warranty, so hopefully they'll stand by that.
It's a lot quicker and easier to put the battery that fits in when the bike is standing in your shop than when you are shoehorning a slightly oversized battery into the bike in a parking lot.
If you are wondering, the Autozone battery is #178908 ETX20L - it sat on top of the lip of the battery tray so I cut the box up to pad it up off the lip. It is a little wide for the battery tray, but fits between the hold-down screws - it is a little shorter than the Odyssey as well
Post by: gone_ape on May 07, 2018, 08:40:51 PM
Most of all I had fun...and winter projects should be just that.
My windscreen of choice is a Givi A660: (Revzilla etc) to me, it has just the right size and looks. I left the RT bars w/barbacks because they're comfortable for me. It gets hot here in TX and the full monte RT barn door was killing me. This should be a improvement to say the least. The bike feels MUCH lighter and frankly more fun to ride....I am now fiddling with screen height/angle to suit.
Post by: Nine80seven on May 08, 2018, 10:02:19 AM
Post by: Chaos on May 08, 2018, 02:05:42 PM
Post by: gone_ape on May 08, 2018, 08:52:19 PM
I've had it up to 90 in this config and no problems at all. The RT setup was rock solid as expected. I too was wondering if lack of mass in front would equal weave and wobble (anybody see that vid Laitch posted ???!!!) I've adjusted my sag numbers thru fork spacers/shock preload...maybe that is helping along with adjusted steering bearings/good tires and rebuilt forks.....
Nine, as a side note, I had a great distaste for "Every time I wanted to adjust, inspect, remove stuff" from the engine bay half the damn bike would need disassembly to get at it....now that problem is no longer....
Post by: jaxon on May 16, 2018, 01:52:13 PM
I saw that someone mentioned the "aftermarket" nuts they had were a little large. I got mine from euromotoelectrics.com, yes they were a tight fit, but a swift kick to the nuts corrected it.
Post by: schrocketeer on May 18, 2018, 06:31:27 PM
Two new front hoses on order from BMW of Jacksonville. I called today, and they said the parts were on the way from BMW warehouse.
Is there a warehouse in the US, or are they coming from the Mother-ship in Germany?
Post by: Laitch on May 18, 2018, 06:47:08 PM
Two new front hoses on order from BMW of Jacksonville. I called today, and they said the parts were on the way from BMW warehouse.Only BMW of Jacksonville can clear up that ambiguity for you.
Is there a warehouse in the US, or are they coming from the Mother-ship in Germany?
Post by: parabrick on May 19, 2018, 09:58:07 AM
Post by: jensk on May 21, 2018, 02:11:20 AM
Cleaned out the rear caliber since the rear brake was dragging a bit and the inner brakepad was worn to about 1 mm. Changed pads.
Has my joy trying to get the air bubbles out of the ABS and the brakelines.
Cleaned out the FD splines and gave them new Guard Dog Moly.
Changed oil and filter.
Wash and polish and i'm ready for this years 10kkm(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/4a7ce55b8da628a334679f56380705b1.jpg)
Sendt fra min ONEPLUS A5000 med Tapatalk
Post by: piptravels on May 21, 2018, 02:48:43 PM
Post by: rbm on May 21, 2018, 04:50:57 PM
I replaced both crankcase and valve covers with real chromed versions, swapping for the chrome-painted ones I had before, as well as replacing the gas tank cover with a polished one. The chrome painted parts survived the years differently. Based on my experience, chrome-painting is good for ornamental purposes only. No severe use cases like engine case covers. Surprisingly, the wheel rims have held up wonderfully. Can't explain that one.
Post by: Laitch on May 21, 2018, 06:31:52 PM
I replaced both crankcase and valve covers with real chromed versions, . . .The long and winding road to Harleyville. Is that an etched, monogrammed Hall Effect sensor cover, I see before me looming in the mist?
Post by: rbm on May 21, 2018, 07:46:27 PM
Post by: Chaos on May 21, 2018, 08:06:24 PM
No Harleysville for this guy Latch. :nono Only chrome accents with taste.aaargh, matey!! tis but a start that leads to raked forks handlebar tassels and riding side by side in packs.
Post by: Martin on May 21, 2018, 08:47:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on May 21, 2018, 09:03:10 PM
. . . a tattoo dedicated to your mother.A tasteful tattoo, no doubt, followed by a tasteful 1%er patch. :giggles
Post by: milq on May 22, 2018, 01:17:06 AM
First time I’ve taken the battery out, quite a snug fit!
Post by: koapono on May 22, 2018, 08:53:40 AM
Purchased a light-bar from Twisted Throttle folks. They have a brick and mortar store in RI and an easy-to-use web site. Supply all your lighting, cargo, bags, GPS/phone/go-pro mounts and clothing needs.
The light bar is from admore lighting Inc. They hail from calgary, canada.
LED light bar featuring: running light, blink then solid brake light plus directional and 4-way flasher.
Tis bright, to be sure.
Post by: milq on May 24, 2018, 06:33:45 PM
Now I’m sitting at DQ and some guy came in and asked if I knew my tag was 3 months expired...oops.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on May 24, 2018, 11:01:21 PM
Then I thought, I have a spindle on the lathe, why not use that? So I made an adapter to mount the wheel to the lathe and used that to spin it.
I slacked off the belt to reduce the load from the motor, and unplugged the lathe to help keep me from doing something stupid (like spin the wheel and tire up to 1500 rpm).
After I got it balanced I spun it 180 degrees on the adapter and checked again to make sure the lathe, the chuck or the adapter wasn't making it come out wrong.
I got the tire balanced and back on the bike, and it's running well.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/b6f9f67552fb5b440b2e7d2402cd4408.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/b8d9a30662f55c92be407822fcc13830.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/599bbc9bf7c2f86ce16577bfc0e0e876.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Post by: stokester on May 25, 2018, 07:54:40 AM
aaargh, matey!! tis but a start that leads to raked forks handlebar tassels and riding side by side in packs.and don't forget the required skulls :mbird
Post by: Laitch on May 25, 2018, 08:57:36 AM
and don't forget the required skulls :mbirdDefinitely! Especially the one carrying the valve adjustment tool. :grimreaper:
Post by: DavidATL on May 26, 2018, 09:01:42 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 26, 2018, 09:18:20 AM
Each summer, I remove my 16" parabellum windshield to allow more cooling airflow on me in the Atlanta summers.Looks good! :2thumbup:
Post by: F14CRAZY on May 26, 2018, 12:13:19 PM
Engine oil and filter change. Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle conventional 20w50...under $5/quart at Meijer. I know we don't exactly need motorcycle oil due to the dry clutch but it's all I've been using for the past 50k miles (oil the Castrol equivalent). I figure it's a quality oil at any rate. Bosch filter from the case that came with the bike when I bought it. These engines probably last as long as they do due to the massive oil filter.
Pulled the trans to clean and relube the clutch hub and input shaft and the driveshaft. Cleaned with brake cleaner and a toothbrush and used Honda Moly 60. I've had the clutch disc in for almost 50k miles and it shows virtually no wear in the friction material or the splines on the hub. I replaced it back in the day after I noticed the hub splines were close to toast during the initial spline lube after purchase. Since I have a house, garage and driveway now, I used Purple Power and my power washed and cleaned the trans and some other parts.
Swapped out the driveshaft for a better one that came with the bike. Mine were still going but I figured it wouldn't hurt for them to be better as it should reduce wear on the final drive splines. Those splines are in decent shape still.
Changed out the fork oil. Bel Ray 10w as I've used before. 410ml per fork as I have Showa forks. A big syringe I ordered from Amazon helped a lot. Before changing I used a Seal Mate to clean out the seals and went for a couple spins before draining and refilling.
I never bothered to do something but I've noticed before that my Pichler V1 fairing has little air scoops in the front and vents on the dash. There wasn't any plumbing in the fairing to hook them up though. I made a Home Depot trip and hooked it up with some 1 1/2'' Fernco couplings, a little pipe and a couple street 90s. I haven't been on the highway with it yet but at 50 mph I can definitely feel a good amount of air from them. This should help against the terrible heat we all are subject to :falldown:
I know I did some other tinkering that I forgot to list but it was a busy evening and morning.
Post by: rbm on May 26, 2018, 04:58:32 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 26, 2018, 05:16:51 PM
I picked up some left-handed jobber drill bits last week and stuck into tackling the broken frame bolt extraction job today. Started drilling through the bolt. It didn't even make a dent in the bolt. These must be massively hardened. Switched to one of my titanium right-handed bits to see if I could start a hole. To my surprise, the drill caught the bolt and started to thread it right through the other side of the frame lug! In a few seconds the remanent of the broken bolt was out. I installed and torqued up the replacement bolt - job done. Simple as that.Wow! Must be your lucky day.
Post by: stokester on May 26, 2018, 05:58:10 PM
I picked up some left-handed jobber drill bits last week and stuck into tackling the broken frame bolt extraction job today. Started drilling through the bolt. It didn't even make a dent in the bolt. These must be massively hardened. Switched to one of my titanium right-handed bits to see if I could start a hole. To my surprise, the drill caught the bolt and started to thread it right through the other side of the frame lug! In a few seconds the remanent of the broken bolt was out. I installed and torqued up the replacement bolt - job done. Simple as that.Good for you, persistance pays off.
I've got a MATCO extractor set with LH bits that have saved me (and others) on automotive jobs, fortunately not needed on the bricks.
Post by: Martin on May 27, 2018, 03:10:32 PM
I replaced my seals nearly twenty years ago. Since then I have packed heavy silicone grease under the dust covers. This keeps all the crud and water out and helps prolong the life of the seals. I clean it out every couple of years and regrease it. If you subject your bike to really dusty conditions I would be replacing it more often. I also pack silicone grease under the brake master cylinder boot for the same reason.
Changed out the fork oil. Bel Ray 10w as I've used before. 410ml per fork as I have Showa forks. A big syringe I ordered from Amazon helped a lot. Before changing I used a Seal Mate to clean out the seals and went for a couple spins before draining and refilling.
Regards Martin.
Post by: DavidATL on May 27, 2018, 03:16:06 PM
I replaced my seals nearly twenty years ago. Since then I have packed heavy silicone grease under the dust covers. This keeps all the crud and water out and helps prolong the life of the seals. I clean it out every couple of years and regrease it. If you subject your bike to really dusty conditions I would be replacing it more often. I also pack silicone grease under the brake master cylinder boot for the same reason.
Regards Martin.
I read a tip online (lolz) about using transmission leaker sealer to swell the fork seals. It was applied directly on the seal. I've been thinking about doing this as a PM item. Thoughts?
Post by: Martin on May 27, 2018, 03:21:21 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: DavidATL on May 27, 2018, 06:12:04 PM
I believe Jo just uses a rag soaked in ATF fluid to keep his in order. The silicone grease seems to be keeping mine in order so I haven't explored alternatives.
Regards Martin.
ah - I thought I read it on the internet and you know how trustworthy that can be. If it's on motobrick, it's golden!!!! :-)
Thanks... I will add this to my fall maintenance.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 27, 2018, 07:59:15 PM
Post by: rbm on May 27, 2018, 08:02:24 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 27, 2018, 08:11:06 PM
Post by: stokester on May 27, 2018, 08:28:58 PM
Put a new Battlax rear, LED driving lights and mirror lanyards on the Moby Brick in preparation for the new owner who is coming by to pick it up on Tuesday. It's going to an acquaintance to replace his Honda CL450. Going to a good home.Glad to hear it.
Ride Safe!
Post by: Martin on May 27, 2018, 08:38:35 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 10, 2018, 10:12:20 PM
Rode the local TonUp club ride to the monthly meeting. We had a couple of riders go down in a wicked off-camber LH corner, one of them right in front of me. The Metzelers had no trouble with the corner or stopping before running over the guy in front of me. I just stopped in the road, put down the stand and turned on my flashers.
We were able to get both bikes out of the ditch and onto a wrecker. Both riders walked away, but one has a cracked rib.
Still getting comfortable with this heavy bike, but the riding position suits me fine.
Stay safe!
Post by: technostructural on June 26, 2018, 04:02:58 PM
I changed my rear tire and lubed my final drive and driveshaft splines. I got a couple photos of them when they were clean to have a look at the wear. Looks about the same as last time - slight wear on the driveshaft, but very good FD. Nice to know!
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/qc5pxw16lg1ud9g/IMG_20180624_151339.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxtjk4c6qfpifyp/IMG_20180624_151410.jpg?raw=1)
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 08:01:50 PM
Any reason why this thread is no longer pinned? I always like seeing what other people are up to!The outcome of your query reminds me of the chorus of Stuart Hamblen's song, It Is No Secret—especially the Tammy Wynette rendition. :clap:
Post by: Chaos on July 02, 2018, 02:49:59 PM
Post by: johnny on July 02, 2018, 03:01:45 PM
without this sticker you are the problem...
[ Invalid Attachment ]
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 03, 2018, 08:10:25 AM
greetings...
without this sticker you are the problem...
j o
Way too hip for me...
This looks better.
Post by: caveman on July 03, 2018, 09:58:44 AM
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Laitch on July 03, 2018, 10:33:12 AM
Post by: Chaos on July 03, 2018, 10:43:52 AM
I think this is hip
more hip :hehehe
Post by: caveman on July 03, 2018, 10:58:01 AM
Laitch, "Stop it dad you are embarrassing me"
Post by: Hilltopper46 on July 03, 2018, 04:16:48 PM
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Darn cell phone - sorry.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 19, 2018, 04:41:58 PM
Good thing I spotted it before I ended up broke down 40 miles west of Nowhere with no cel service.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 19, 2018, 10:02:04 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 19, 2018, 11:18:35 PM
I've put off renewing the bushings and seals for too long.
Post by: CNRED on July 20, 2018, 08:20:58 AM
Didn't run when I got it but it had a Straintune exhaust that I wanted to hear. I puttzed withnthe bike, (used fuel tank I had with an old pump), had the injectors cleaned, and it fired! Actually ran pretty well.
Over the past months I replaced all the fuel related and small rubber engines hoses.
Yesterday, I replaced the main wiring harness (all the connectors that had been exposed to the sun had discentigrated) with a harness I bought on eBay. When I was finished, I put the key in the ignition rather apprehensively, turned the key to the "ON" position...No smoke leaked out. Hit the starter button, Bingo..Bike turned over a couple times..started and idled perfectly.
I was very happy.
I've recently found another k75 parts bike this one is a K75c. All of the painted parts from this bike will go on the other one. Evetythin I don't used will go up for sale.
Post by: Chaos on July 20, 2018, 08:43:44 AM
Post by: CNRED on July 20, 2018, 09:42:26 AM
I've got a 90 K75rt bike as well, so I have a standard to conpare to.
The Staintune is a bit louder, but not really obnoxious. All in all i like it. My original plan was to get the old S bike to run to hear the pipe, if I like the sound I was going to take it off the S bike and put it on the RT bike. The S bike ran so well I decided to bring it all the was back and use it as a summer bike. It will come back as a K75c.
I be;ieve I had tyou email address from a previous deal, but I can't find it. Srnd me a message with you address and I'll send you a video of the two bikes and how they sound.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 20, 2018, 05:56:59 PM
Tank must come off.
Post by: Martin on July 20, 2018, 06:35:41 PM
I had a good look around the metal shop and checked out the equipment. A really good turret mill with power feed two good metal lathes, a power broacher, a power key way cutter, drop saw,arc and oxy welders. All the hand tools and electric and air tool you could possibly need. They have a couple of major projects going a large CNC machine is being built for one of the other workshops. There is another small CNC machine around that I did'nt see. My first job is to rebuild my drive shaft I am looking at blocking it off so there is an actual reservoir of grease. I'll start by making a copper heatsink so as not to put too much heat into the rubber shaft damper. They open Tuesdays, Fridays mornings and Sundays. Apparently they have made quite a few hard to obtain car and bike parts.
Regards Martin.
Post by: mw074 on July 20, 2018, 07:00:50 PM
Post by: Martin on July 20, 2018, 11:43:44 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 23, 2018, 08:59:23 PM
I got the injectors off and the throttle bodies.
I really appreciate this post by Mystic Red http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.0.html#top
The bushings look good and the O rings were still pliable, but I have new ones so they're going on.
Just gotta find a shop to clean the injectors.
Post by: Chaos on July 26, 2018, 10:25:44 AM
Post by: stokester on July 28, 2018, 02:52:09 PM
I am as vocal as most about the prices of BMW parts but I always caveat that with "but I can get them for the most part". This repair was no different, I ordered the latches from Bob's @ $27.01 each and had some hinges which I see are only $8 and it was at my house in three days. The latches came with the catch and pop rivets (although only 5 not 6 which is what is needed to replace all?) and the hinge package I had included enough for both cases (4).
So for just over $60 I was able to transfer the lock cores, drill out the rivets (a right-angle drill comes in handy) and install the new latches and hinges. Not like trying to find parts for my '81 Yamaha!
Post by: Skunky on July 29, 2018, 04:02:12 AM
LED-ified the front reflectors
Just wired as running lights at the moment though the final plan is to have them also flash with the turn signals.
Love that idea. Mine didn't have the reflectors on when I bought it. May just look out for some now.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 31, 2018, 10:31:23 PM
The bad news is that nobody in this town has the proper equipment to clean them, including the BMW dealer.
Gotta pack them up and ship them off. Maybe in two weeks I'll get them back.
I'm tired of hearing how the interweb is putting local folks out of business.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 01, 2018, 01:52:45 PM
Post by: blackie1 on August 01, 2018, 03:32:26 PM
will you be painting your paint booth in a paint booth.
back to the workshop Gryph
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 01, 2018, 03:38:56 PM
Post by: Scott_ on August 07, 2018, 06:47:27 AM
I've read it elsewhere, and I'll repeat it here. If you need a replacement gear/motor assembly for your LT windscreen, look for a sunroof gear/motor assy from an 89-95 BMW E34 Series 5.. Direct fit, including the wiring connector.
These seem to be more readily available than trying to find one off of another bike, and a whole lot cheaper.
The one thing I did have to do, when they 'tested' the motor for function, they must have bypassed the limit switches when they ran the motor. I had to do the same thing and run it back to the point the switches activated again. Other than that, it runs perfect.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 08, 2018, 06:53:39 PM
I put them back in the fuel rail and mounted the assembly. Turned the key on and off a few times, no leaks.
But, the thing won't start. All fuses are good. I shorted the side stand switch just in case. Still no joy.
Guess I'll take off the line from the regulator at the fuel rail to see if fuel is getting there. Is there any need to bleed the fuel system? All the fuel lines were replaced.
Post by: Supershooter on August 08, 2018, 10:38:02 PM
Got my injectors back today. The numbers show marginal improvement, they were clean to start with.
I put them back in the fuel rail and mounted the assembly. Turned the key on and off a few times, no leaks.
But, the thing won't start. All fuses are good. I shorted the side stand switch just in case. Still no joy.
Guess I'll take off the line from the regulator at the fuel rail to see if fuel is getting there. Is there any need to bleed the fuel system? All the fuel lines were replaced.
Are your plugs wet after you crank the bike over? Is your fuel pump running? Is it creating the right amount of fuel pressure?
Supershooter
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 09, 2018, 01:37:17 AM
Do I need to retract the side stand just to put pressure to the fuel system?
LUNACY!
Perhaps I only need to retract the stand and turn on the key for long enough the pressurize the fuel system?
Post by: Laitch on August 09, 2018, 02:02:34 AM
From what I can make out from the wiring diagram the side stand switch completes the connection to the fuel pump relay. Does this mean that the fuel pump does not run until the side stand is retracted?From a Rider's Manual:
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-090818020016.png)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 09, 2018, 03:48:21 AM
Who am I to believe?
Post by: Laitch on August 09, 2018, 03:50:48 AM
Looking at the diagram I downloaded here. The side stand switch does not interrupt the ignition circuit, as it should. Instead it interrupts the circuit to the fuel pump.The side stand is "linked to ignition" because it cuts off the fuel supply when in the down position. Without fuel, there is nothing to ignite. It's doing what what it should do as a safety feature. Riding off with the side stand down sometimes means the first left turn leads to an emergency room.
Who am I to believe?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 09, 2018, 09:41:15 AM
Because the microswitch that is connected to the sidestand is under the bike they can be prone to failure(I had to replace one on my first K100RS 16V). The cable and the connector run up the right side of the bike, and are in a spot where they are disturbed when doing spline lubes or other service that requires moving the footpeg plate or the transmission. It's possible that one of the wire connections in the switch's plug is bad.
If you can find the plug it's possible to jumper the connector to eliminate the sidestand switch so it doesn't interfere with fuel pump operation. That is an easy way to see if that is your problem.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 09, 2018, 03:22:06 PM
I pulled the return fuel line off at the fuel rail, nothing came out. Spun the engine with my finger over the outlet, no pressure felt, no mess, no fuel.
I guess it all has to come apart again.
Post by: Gibson on August 09, 2018, 03:32:42 PM
Post by: K1300S on August 09, 2018, 03:44:28 PM
K75 got Mich Pilot Activ
K1100 got Mich Pilot Road 3's
the rear on the K1100 was a real beeach to do.
the rejects. both over 10 years old. lots of tread, but nasty hard and dry rotted.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K1100rs/20180809_144800.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K1100rs/20180809_144800.jpg.html)
Post by: K1300S on August 09, 2018, 03:58:31 PM
Changed a front tire on the K75. Avon 100/90-18. Rides nice. Finally ditched the 25 year old Metzler. Not worn out, but don't trust it... Rear is next.
yikes! you were riding on 25yr old tires? that is scary. anything over 5 yrs old should be replaced. rubber gets hard and looses traction. i just threw away a set of dunlops with only about 100 miles on them that were 10 years old.
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 09, 2018, 08:16:04 PM
Post by: blackie1 on August 10, 2018, 03:15:03 AM
still, 10 minute job and peace of mind.
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2018, 07:26:40 AM
Drained rear drive oil.
250ml NAPA 80w-90 added to rear drive.
Drained crankcase oil.
3.5 liters 20w-50 BMW mineral oil and BMW oil filter to crankcase. Used a cap filter wrench on a 3/8 drive extension and ratchet to remove and install filter. Replaced filter plate o-ring after using the previous one for four oil changes. All screw washers were reused. I've been reusing them after oil changes for the last three years. Certain members here want to know what they look like. They're circular. They fit the screws as though they were made for them. They aren't paper thin but neither are they thick. Their colors comprise an arc of hues from burnt sienna to burnished slate. Color matching isn't a high priority for me.
Drained fork oil from sliders at rear drain holes.
410ml 7.5w fork oil added to both fork tubes.
Checked torque settings of fork brace bolts—top and bottom.
Checked torque setting on rear shock fasteners.
Checked crankcase ventilation z-tube because Blackie checked his. Tube is ok. Expecting peace of mind anyway. :giggles
Post by: CNRED on August 10, 2018, 09:40:33 AM
After 20 minutes of riding:
Drained rear drive oil.
250ml NAPA 80w-90 added to rear drive.
Drained crankcase oil.
3.5 liters 20w-50 mineral oil and BMW oil filter to crankcase. Used a cap filter wrench on a 3/8 drive extension and ratchet to remove and install filter. Replaced filter plate o-ring after using the previous one for four oil changes. All screw washers were not replaced.
Drained fork oil from sliders at rear drain holes.
410ml 7.5w fork oil added to both fork tubes.
BUsy, Busy...
Checked torque settings of fork brace bolts—top and bottom.
Checked torque setting on rear shock fasteners.
Checked crankcase ventilation z-tube because Blackie checked his. Tube is ok. Expecting peace of mind shortly. :giggles
Post by: Chaos on August 10, 2018, 10:31:08 AM
All screw washers were not replaced.
this is ambiguous, were all of them not replaced or were some of them but not all of them? If so why? And are those lock washers or regular washers? I want to try this sometime and really need to know.
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2018, 10:36:10 AM
this is ambiguous, were all of them not replaced or were some of them but not all of them? If so why? And are those lock washers or regular washers? I want to try this sometime and really need to know.ESL instruction is not my specialty. Contact johnny.
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2018, 10:53:06 AM
Post by: Chaos on August 10, 2018, 12:02:05 PM
Post by: Laitch on August 10, 2018, 12:03:45 PM
But does BMW recommend screwing the same nut twice or more times?They leave it up to the degree of loneliness being experienced by the screwer.
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 10, 2018, 10:23:12 PM
Post by: blackie1 on August 11, 2018, 03:30:59 AM
one and three intakes were tight , the rest were in spec.
awaiting a couple of shims which i ordered today.
check out the half moon rubbers on the right hand edge.
that light brown/ yellow stripe across them is a very precise strip of sealant / rubber compound.
do you guys think that would be from the factory?
it was really the only bit of sealant to be found anywhere on the gasket.
do you think that this may be an indication that i am the first person to ever remove the the cylinder head cover.
my machine is a 1991 k75 with about 47,000km on the clock
Post by: Laitch on August 11, 2018, 05:45:29 AM
. . . that light brown/ yellow stripe across them is a very precise strip of sealant / rubber compound.It could be that, or it could be that whoever performed maintenance on it last worked with precision, eg., a BMW dealership tech performing a scheduled valve clearance check early in the moto's life when the owner might actually have cared or had the money to have it done, or an owner accustomed to working with precision.
do you guys think that would be from the factory?
it was really the only bit of sealant to be found anywhere on the gasket.
do you think that this may be an indication that i am the first person to ever remove the the cylinder head cover.
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 11, 2018, 08:30:19 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 12, 2018, 07:04:08 PM
Post by: Chaos on August 12, 2018, 07:49:25 PM
Did some painting on parts for my 1991 k100rs. Doing a bit of a tribute to the K100RS special edition paint job. So far, I'm pretty pleased with the results.
NICE!!!
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 13, 2018, 09:25:41 PM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 14, 2018, 06:59:42 PM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 15, 2018, 09:20:33 PM
Post by: natalena on August 16, 2018, 03:55:12 PM
This morning the K75s got some boring highway miles to D.C. and then the fun started. I've driven all over the world, including Cairo, Napoli, and SF ... D.C. is the absolute scariest place on two-wheels, bar none! Came in from the south, and went to Georgetown, had 2 close-merging cars push me and thought "gotta be a fluke", then almost got sandwiched on the Key Bridge which gave me some serious religion squirting out of that one. Only saw 3 other riders today in the city, 2 were on newer R's. Anyhoo, whose the patron Saint of motorcycles?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 16, 2018, 05:13:39 PM
MG: that is a superb paint job. Is there a slight tint of blue, possibly metal flake in the stripes?
Thank you! The blue is Ford code DX Dark Blue Metallic. It has a metallic pearl in it that is only visible in strong sunlight. The stripes were masked with 3M pinstriping tape to imitate the official BMW stripes and painted with the body paint.
The white is Ford code UG Platinum White Tri Coat. First time I ever did tri coat; it's way easier than I thought. Shot the color coats with my trusty(and cheap) Badger 250 air brush. Takes a bit longer to get the paint on, but it's impossible for me to f-up the paint with it. Clear is a 2K clear in rattle cans. I can't believe how nice the spray pattern was and how easy it was to lay down.
I shot everything in my home made spray booth. Tomorrow I hope to get the main part of the fairing and the belly pan painted so I can do the assembly over the weekend. With any luck, I'll have some piccies of the finished bike on Monday.
Post by: johnny on August 16, 2018, 05:55:36 PM
id that 1991 k100rs gonna have the bep 3 and a toe heal shifter like so many ice cream shop racers here are so equipped...
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 16, 2018, 06:50:30 PM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 17, 2018, 12:53:54 PM
Post by: Chaos on August 20, 2018, 10:12:23 AM
Post by: Gibson on August 20, 2018, 12:54:14 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 21, 2018, 09:07:14 AM
Moby Brick Too
Post by: Gibson on August 21, 2018, 09:34:20 AM
Post by: Chaos on August 21, 2018, 12:23:33 PM
Post by: Jethroww on August 22, 2018, 08:20:16 PM
(http://)
Post by: K1300S on August 22, 2018, 09:34:55 PM
MG: that is a superb paint job. Is there a slight tint of blue, possibly metal flake in the stripes?
This morning the K75s got some boring highway miles to D.C. and then the fun started. I've driven all over the world, including Cairo, Napoli, and SF ... D.C. is the absolute scariest place on two-wheels, bar none! Came in from the south, and went to Georgetown, had 2 close-merging cars push me and thought "gotta be a fluke", then almost got sandwiched on the Key Bridge which gave me some serious religion squirting out of that one. Only saw 3 other riders today in the city, 2 were on newer R's. Anyhoo, whose the patron Saint of motorcycles?
and that is why you don't see many MC's inside the beltway. I try to stay out of that area. heck, i went on a three day ride in the boonies of WV last week. rather than risk the DC beltway traffic and summer heat, i trailered the bikes out to winchester and rode out from there.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K1300s/20180814_153058.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K1300s/20180814_153058.jpg.html)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 23, 2018, 01:09:07 PM
Post by: Chaos on August 23, 2018, 01:53:17 PM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 24, 2018, 04:17:44 AM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 25, 2018, 08:16:12 AM
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 25, 2018, 09:51:00 PM
Post by: blackie1 on August 26, 2018, 02:20:07 AM
2 of my inlet clearances were tight 0.09mm and 0.11mm (min is 0.15mm)
i had to install shims measuring 2.45mm and 2.5mm to bring back into spec.
i purchased these shims from https://www.tills.de
they supply 29mm diameter shims down to a thickness of 2mm, so plenty of adjustment left for now
i had previously purchased the valve adjustment tools from Ken Lively, polepenhollow@yahoo.com
even so ,it took me an hour and a half to extract the first old shim,
i had a set of fine picks that i was using to try and coax the old shim out with but even so it turned into a battle of patience and persistence on my behalf versus that silent mechanical German goading that i am becoming accustomed to.
eventually it did pop out to my relief. an hour and a half!!!!! yawl
next time i will pre purchase a telescopic adjustable magnet.
i have seen a video where you can blow them out with compressed air , which seemed to work brilliantly.
in contrast , extracting and replacing the 2nd shim took 5 mins.
I also installed new spark plugs.
I let the smear of gasket sealant set overnight on the half moon rubbers and the front corners near the timing chain.
took it out for a ride today and it is running noticeably better (i actually thought it was running great before i had done anything)
so whether thats due to the new plugs or the valve adjustment or a combination of both I will never know.
next on my list is a throttle body balance
Post by: Laitch on August 26, 2018, 07:55:05 AM
eventually it did pop out to my relief. an hour and a half!!!!! yawlI think that's a new record! :clap: Buy yourself a pint.
Post by: Chaos on August 26, 2018, 08:34:27 AM
Also turns out I had two ignition wires on the wrong plug... Wow, that really woke the bike up.
haha, back in the 70's I used to covertly switch 2 plug wires on my brother's 63 beetle. It would run but barely, then I'd charge him $5 to fix it. He thought I was a genius.
Post by: rbm on August 26, 2018, 08:42:44 AM
Finished painting over the weekend and got the bodywork put together on Monday. Still need to block sand the clear and buff it out, but for now he looks good enough to ride.Yes, Gryph, awesome paint job! It looks like a SE model on steroids. I love the colour combination and the RS lines.
Moby Brick Too
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 26, 2018, 01:57:32 PM
Buffing pads and compound ordered. Hope to commence buffing festivities next weekend.
I think it's gonna look okay.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 26, 2018, 11:53:33 PM
85 mph on the interstate, and it begs for more.
Post by: zenitramnaes on August 26, 2018, 11:59:13 PM
haha, back in the 70's I used to covertly switch 2 plug wires on my brother's 63 beetle. It would run but barely, then I'd charge him $5 to fix it. He thought I was a genius.
That's genius. I knew something wasn't right, although I've never driven a brick before so i didn't know it was missing that much power. I made a bracket for the aftermarket speedo the PO put on and rode it probably 50 miles today. I absolutely love this bike.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 27, 2018, 07:52:55 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 27, 2018, 07:56:34 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 27, 2018, 02:36:01 PM
What to do?
Bangladeshi taxi ride to USPS with my tragkorbs and liners for Bruce.
Post by: Jethroww on August 27, 2018, 07:18:24 PM
(http://[attachment id=1][/attachment])
(http://[attachment id=2][/attachment])
Jethroww
Post by: Laitch on August 27, 2018, 07:26:04 PM
Hi, hit 100,000 mark Friday.:clap: :yippee: :2thumbup: :birthday:
Post by: Laitch on August 27, 2018, 07:32:01 PM
Sold and shipped out some brick bits only both cars are out for the day...aQ@#$%@ERTQW#yawl :clap:
What to do?
Bangladeshi taxi ride to USPS with my tragkorbs and liners for Bruce.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 27, 2018, 09:57:04 PM
Hi, hit 100,000 mark Friday.
Jethroww
Congratulations on reaching the end of the break-in period...
Post by: Jethroww on August 29, 2018, 08:37:29 PM
1, break-in = 100,000 - completed ✔
2, commence motobricking ✔
3, never stop ✔
Jethroww
Post by: Gibson on August 30, 2018, 07:27:30 AM
Post by: mdk_mdk on August 31, 2018, 03:42:05 PM
After I was finished I adjusted the headlight using the method from the owners manual. I know, I know, bike is on center stand, it's daylight, moon is wrong phase, etc. etc. but I don't ride much at night any more (53 years young) and I just wanted to make sure I wasn't blinding my riding partners.
Crossed off a couple of items on the list and went for a quick ride up Route 579 from Ringoes NJ to Pittstown NJ, great motorcycle riding road.
The more I dig into this 56K brick that I rescued off Cape Cod, the more I like it. Gearbox and final drive oil look new, bolts I remove have anti-seize on them, air filter was new, etc. Looks like it was cared for and maintained, just not ridden by the last owner.
Have a great Labor Day weekend (if you're in the US) and let's welcome the fall riding season, cheers!
Post by: blackie1 on August 31, 2018, 08:36:16 PM
pulls hard? good acceleration? smooth?
just curious as to why you have the "4 hole injectors" on your list of things to do.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 01, 2018, 09:52:21 AM
Let me offer an opinion that may save you a few dollars that can be spent of gas. Four hole injectors may or may not be in the snake oil category of Motobrick parts. Some have found them to make the bike feel like it has more power, others have not. So far, despite being around for a number of years, there is no dyno data on what they can do for a Motobrick. Personally, as long as the bike is running well, I would hold off on them until there is some good dyno data.
Second, when these bikes first came out, there was hardly any coolant being sold for aluminum alloy engines, so it was critical to use the expensive BMW magic elixir. Nowadays, with nearly every car having an aluminum engine that has to meet EPA specs, most coolants are formulated for aluminum blocks. I use Peak Long Life in my bricks mixed 40/60 with distilled water and so far have had no problems. It is readily available and often on sale for less than half what the dealer charges.
Post by: mdk_mdk on September 01, 2018, 10:50:03 AM
The Mighty Gryphon: Agreed on both points: Still looking into the 4-hole injectors, bike is running great but a bit more power would be nice. The blue coolant note is more to remind me to make sure I use aluminum compatible coolant when I go through the cooling system. First I have to make sure the fan is working, got a temp warning light last weekend in heavy traffic, don't recall the fan kicking on, light went out as soon as we started to move again.
Post by: jakgieger on September 01, 2018, 09:14:22 PM
Someday MG is going to bring his faux SE :clap: to Kansas and we will test the upgrade (my 10% increase v his 4valve)!!!!!
Post by: mdk_mdk on September 02, 2018, 11:03:04 AM
Post by: jakgieger on September 02, 2018, 11:35:48 AM
Post by: mdk_mdk on September 02, 2018, 12:34:00 PM
Everything came apart nicely with just the driveshaft u-joint sticking a bit coming out of the swing arm housing; I dressed the edges of the housing with a file and re-installation was smoother.
The driveshaft-final drive splines looked good, no obvious wear or damage and they were weren't dry but the grease was like brown mud. The other end of the driveshaft was very clean and a bit dry with just a little bit of the BMW red grease left on the splines.
I cleaned everything up and lubed both spline sets with some Staburags NBU 30 PTM spline lube that I purchased off eBay in preparation for a winter clutch spline lubrication project.
Pictures below are of the splines before I finished cleaning them, it's amazing how much lint is in the white towels that you get from Costco, Home Depot, etc.!
Bonus picture is my original K75C back when I took the obligatory solo camping trip ride down the Blue Ridge Parkway. No date on the back of the picture but I'm going to say it was probably early 1990's.
Post by: mdk_mdk on September 09, 2018, 05:08:50 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2342-starter-motor-cleaning-tutorial (http://www.k100-forum.com/t2342-starter-motor-cleaning-tutorial)
There was some black debris inside the starter and the commutator ring was dark but not that worn (see pics below).
Used some contact cleaner and a light dusting with some Scotch Brite to clean the ring.
Put everything back together and and she started right up!
It's cooled down to a reasonable temperature here in NJ so it's very pleasant out in the garage.
Raining all weekend so no riding, looking forward to a nice ride next weekend as long as hurricane Florence doesn't interfere!
Post by: Snowman on September 14, 2018, 01:12:40 PM
Post by: herseyb on September 14, 2018, 02:59:03 PM
Clutch arm seal prolly?
Post by: paratrooper34 on September 14, 2018, 07:15:11 PM
Got a rear luggage rack for the tail from a great member here (Shout out, Jim!). Had it cleaned up and powder coated along with the exhaust shield. Ordered a bunch of small parts from MaxBMW such as: new fasteners for exhaust shield, locks for luggage, tinted windscreen, front brake pads, new mirrors, "absorber" for kick stand, and mud flap. It's amazing how many new parts are still available for this bike. Squeezing in time between my classes, I finally got all of the pieces installed and ready to go back out on the road.
Post by: beemuker on September 14, 2018, 08:18:28 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 14, 2018, 09:04:37 PM
Post by: caveman on September 14, 2018, 09:14:30 PM
Post by: paratrooper34 on September 15, 2018, 07:58:11 AM
I'm a bit jealous, that is one nice looking motor cycle!
Thanks, she is a good ten footer :)
Post by: Laitch on September 15, 2018, 08:22:45 AM
Well, not so much of a "What I did today" post but rather what I did over the last couple of weeks. Had it cleaned up and powder coated along with the exhaust shield. Ordered a bunch of small parts from MaxBMW such as: . . . and mud flap.The Iron Cross is a nice touch. :2thumbup:
Post by: rbm on September 15, 2018, 11:54:19 AM
This is no crash, Laitch, but electrical suicide is more along the lines of what happened. So, driving home from work, beautiful evening, mid-20's, sunny. Bike starts up great after being parked all day. I got about halfway home and accidentally stalled the engine. Instantly all lights went out - dash lights, gauge lights, headlight, all signs of life gone, DOA. Pulled over to the side of the road and did fuse checks and other diagnosis but still couldn't get any sign of electrical activity in any circuit. The positive terminal of the battery was caked, and I mean caked, in green oxide. The terminal lugs were stuck together and I could barely get the terminal screw to turn. All this was brand new looking only 5 months ago. I knew something was very wrong with the battery.
Had Ed's number so gave him a call. Luckily he was just around the corner at the Bank and he popped by eventually. We concluded that the battery was completely dead. Pushed the bike to his place (no mean feat since I had a sore back and he is recovering from an accident with a broken wrist), put the battery on charge and there it's been.
What I don't understand is how the battery went from OK downtown to dead as a doornail in 20 km of riding. The battery is less than 2 years old. AGM so it's sealed and I have no way to top up acid. I conclude it must be Cheap Chinese junk based on the price. False economy on my part to buy it; I knew better.
Fast forward to Friday. Found a replacement battery from my Moto Guzzi at home and, although I suspected it to be weak, I took it along to Ed's for try for a replacement. Swapped the batteries and got life into the bike but she still wouldn't turn over. Opened the relay box and tested power into the starter relay -- good 12V. Checked the output of the starter relay going to the starter motor. The relay was engaging but I got no output voltage when I pressed the starter button, and of course the starter was dead. Ah ha, bad starter relay to boot. Tore the case off and gazed upon burned contacts that were so bad, one pair was actually missing. Hmmm, looks like a new starter relay in my future along with a new battery.
This morning, I found the one spare starter relay I owned in my stash, swapped it for the broken one, and borrowed Ed's battery since it was obvious that the Moto Guzzi wasn't strong enough to turn over the engine (which it tried to do after the relay swap). Once Ed's battery was in place, the bike started up like before. Rode it home and she back in my garage.
So, new relay - check. Ordered an Odyssey PC680 from Saskbattery - check. Thank Bocutter Ed profusely -- check!
Post by: Scott_ on September 15, 2018, 03:03:40 PM
Post by: mdk_mdk on September 15, 2018, 05:52:58 PM
Post by: blackie1 on September 15, 2018, 10:56:48 PM
about 3 x weeks ago I checked and adjusted the valve clearances, replaced air filter and installed a new set of plugs.
and felt an immediate improvement after doing just this.
today I got around to balancing the throttle bodies with the aid of the "morgan carbtune pro" https://www.carbtune.com/
pretty effortless procedure and the engine went from smooth to very smooth.
enjoyed reading up on these procedures on this forum and learnt a lot.
very satisfying to do something to the moto to take it from running great to RUNNING GREAT
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 17, 2018, 08:46:06 PM
It arrived today, and I spent a couple hours installing it. One problem I had was the thread in the cylinder did not match the thread on the OEM brake line. Fortunately, I had an old brake line in good shape with a Banjo fitting that worked perfectly. Brakes are bled and the rear hauls the bike down like a big anchor. Love it!
Also installed a set of Pro Grip gel grips. Had them on the Moby Brick and really liked them.
Moby Too is pretty close to being totally dialed in for me. I just need to do the valve shims and the clutch splines this winter and it'll be running as smooth as his namesake.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 24, 2018, 10:50:57 PM
I suspect that one or more injectors were gummed up from sitting idle for 5 years and that after a thousand+ miles have finally broken loose. Looking forward to checking valve clearances and balancing the throttle bodies again this winter.
The difference in running from when I first got it to now is like night and day. It's almost running as good as the Moby Brick did now.
Another job done was to replace some of the clips that hold the mirror/turn signals to the fairing. The mirrors were so loose that the slightest bump would knock them off. With the new clips they feel incredibly secure and can take quite a shot without loosening.
The clips are rather expensive, even by BMW standards(over $6 for a tiny bit of metal), but the improvement in how solid the even more costly mirror assemblies are is more than worth the investment. My suggestion is if you have an RS with delicate mirror attachments you should get some of these clips. I'm pretty sure you will notice the improvement.
Post by: Laitch on September 24, 2018, 11:41:45 PM
So today I tackled the drive spline lubrication on the Cape Cod K75 (I really have to come up with a name for this bike).How about The Codpiece?
Post by: Scott_ on September 25, 2018, 06:41:21 AM
edit: Yea, I had a typo...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 25, 2018, 08:23:00 AM
I might finally be able to put radial tires on my K75RT!
https://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/detail/pr142/
Post by: beemuker on September 25, 2018, 09:00:36 AM
Post by: Chaos on September 25, 2018, 10:48:44 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 25, 2018, 11:00:56 AM
ooooh, all that real estate to put stickers on!maybe just a back off, but once you get started...
(https://goo.gl/images/Y39cRG)
Post by: Chaos on September 25, 2018, 11:08:34 AM
maybe just a back off, but once you get started...
(https://goo.gl/images/Y39cRG)
Mine pretty much hold the bike together. Need to find one for the right rear blinker before it falls off.
Post by: Laitch on September 25, 2018, 11:30:22 AM
Need to find one for the right rear blinker before it falls off.:giggles
Post by: Skunky on September 25, 2018, 01:29:05 PM
but does it make my butt look fat?
If anyone can see your butt past that box then yes :hehehe
Post by: K1300S on September 25, 2018, 05:55:19 PM
K13S is going to the track and got done work also, but it ain't a brick!
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/k75%20x2/20180925_144255.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/k75%20x2/20180925_144255.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/k75%20x2/20180925_174845.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/k75%20x2/20180925_174845.jpg.html)
Gonna get some YEE HA!
Post by: Scott_ on September 25, 2018, 06:14:22 PM
Scott, do you mean the Bridgestone A41 radial? They look very interesting. I really like that they aren't semi-knobbies, but have what looks like a road tire tread pattern.
I might finally be able to put radial tires on my K75RT!
https://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/detail/pr142/
Yea, I must have fat fingered it.... I edited my post.
I like that they aren't semi-knobbies as well. They seem pretty decent thus far... time will tell.
They showed up fast as well... I asked for standard 3-8 day shipping.... had them in less than 48hrs...
I got the e-mail saying they were "out for delivery" before I got the email that even said they were shipped.... lol.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 25, 2018, 06:25:49 PM
Post by: K1300S on September 25, 2018, 09:33:58 PM
I have my first ever track day on my K100RS in a couple of weeks. Do you have any brick specific tips or tricks for a day of yea haa on a 28 year old bike?
make sure tires, brake pads and brake fluid are fresh. start off with 3-4psi lower pressure in the tires than you normally run. make sure you and the bike are totally ready the day before the event. do not leave ANYTHING for the last minute.
at the track...start slow. listen to the instructors. work on being SMOOTH. don't just try to go fast.
K's are long heavy bikes. they are a workout to get around a track....
three rules for track days...be safe...have fun....improve your skills.
(although i am a student at MC track events, I am a long time competition and performance driving instructor in cars...)
Post by: Filmcamera on September 25, 2018, 09:38:21 PM
There will be some instruction available there, but mainly I am looking forward to be able to lean the bike more than I normally do without worrying about horses, chickens, goats, potholes, sand and all the other daily obstacles that Costa Rican roads offer. yawl
Post by: John Lang on September 28, 2018, 08:53:54 AM
Post by: Chaos on September 28, 2018, 09:10:02 AM
Now I gotta buy that tool thingy, find out which shim is in there, order and install a new one. Rats!
It can be done without the tool, just need to find something to lever the bucket down and hold it there. But the tool makes it easier.
Post by: John Lang on September 28, 2018, 09:22:03 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 28, 2018, 11:37:09 AM
I may have a go without the tool and then reluctantly order it.Follow the diagram below. My experience is that it makes extraction of the shim easier. The slot is for the insertion of BMW's tool—maybe some type of plier or tweezer for which you have a substitute in your collection—that grips the shim for extraction when the bucket has been pushed down. A pick can be put in that slot to lift the bucket. I used a narrow, flexible magnet and a pick to position, pull and replace the shims.
To sum up the diagram, once the cam lobe isn't touching the shim, the bucket can be rotated so its slot is oriented per the diagram. To extract the intake shim, the bucket is pushed down on the right side of its rim then the shim is extracted from the lower left quadrant. To extract the exhaust shim, the bucket is pushed down on the left side of its rim then the shim is extract from the upper right quadrant. Once the shim is loosened from the bucket, sometimes gravity will extract it for you. The trick is to push down on the rim firmly and steadily enough without your pushing-tool slipping off it while the shim is being extracted to the background sounds of howling, cursing and moaning. :giggles The extraction tools eliminate the variables and lower the decibels.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-280918104432.png)
I purchased Ken Lively's valve shim extraction tools when they were thirty-five bucks for the pair. There might be a pair kicking around up there that one of your compatriots could mail to you on loan. They're slim and don't need to be boxed—at least down here they don't.
Post by: John Lang on September 28, 2018, 12:04:06 PM
Post by: bluebossa on September 28, 2018, 05:09:39 PM
Post by: blackie1 on September 28, 2018, 05:31:56 PM
aren't you curious to know if your rev limiter is working?
please report back
Post by: Laitch on September 28, 2018, 05:37:02 PM
Post by: K1300S on September 28, 2018, 09:52:03 PM
Thank you, Chaos. I may have a go without the tool and then reluctantly order it.
just get ken's tools. they are cheap. they work. they eliminate damage to the buckets and make the job easier on the first try.
one thing i have learned in a life of wrenching....use the right tools for a job. they are worth the investment.
Post by: K1300S on September 28, 2018, 09:56:40 PM
Great thanks, yep that is pretty much what I had in mind, I am going to go gently on the old girl to start with - and probably to end with as well lol.
There will be some instruction available there, but mainly I am looking forward to be able to lean the bike more than I normally do without worrying about horses, chickens, goats, potholes, sand and all the other daily obstacles that Costa Rican roads offer. yawl
read a few books on performance riding before you go, or there is a Brit who has a great YouTube channel with a series of 5min videos on a bunch of starter track topics. channel is "LifeAtLean"
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzjILZxaqNI0FM_XPPkcRJw
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2018, 07:05:53 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2018, 08:38:52 AM
That is partly why I want to try the track day, there is only so much you can do on a public road without being in serious danger :falldown:If part of the track-day training consists of avoiding chickens on the public roadway, let me know. Although I have always managed to maneuver around them, I won't hesitate to sacrifice them if necessary for the benefit of my well-being, despite being a vegetarian.
Along with some of the texts you've cited, I was taught—and I continue to practice—maneuvering and hard braking on less-traveled back roads, and using pylon arrays in empty parking lots. I've only one bike and one body so I'm conservative. Restoration of either will take longer at my age and riding season where I live is only six months long. :giggles
Post by: bluebossa on September 29, 2018, 12:20:37 PM
Also cleaned inside 2 Starter Motors and fitted best to Bike
Post by: Chaos on September 29, 2018, 01:11:03 PM
I won't hesitate to sacrifice them if necessary for the benefit of my well-being, despite being a vegetarian.
Old joke pops to mind, how can you find out if someone is a vegetarian? You don't have to, they'll tell you. Thank you Laitch for proving another stereotype is reality based! :clap:
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2018, 03:10:02 PM
Thank you Laitch for proving another stereotype is reality based! :clap:(https://imgfast.net/users/4211/29/48/93/smiles/4265249878.gif)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 30, 2018, 08:00:09 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2018, 09:20:06 AM
Whyzit when a vegetarian visits for dinner my wife feels obligated to prepare a vegetarian meal, but when we are invited to have a meal at a vegetarian's home they never feel obligated to prepare a meatetarian meal for us???We're just special, and so is your wife. :yippee:
Post by: natalena on October 09, 2018, 01:55:35 PM
Ended up taking the entire peg mount off and doing it the hillbilly method. Not pretty but it worked, and the pegs now clear the cases.
Incredible example of German over-engineering, why make a simple flip-up peg when you can create a 12 piece marvel?
Post by: K1300S on October 10, 2018, 07:55:39 AM
Post by: natalena on October 10, 2018, 01:54:19 PM
your rear pegs did not clear the stock bmw cases? that is odd. all three of my "S" bricks, using the same cases, clear with no issues.The second picture shows the 2-piece peg hitting the lock. It didn't have enough tension, and would flip back out on bumps. The 1-piece pegs have a good 2cm of clearance, and the K's top speed has improved noticeably. ;)
Post by: Laitch on October 10, 2018, 02:26:01 PM
that is odd. all three of my "S" bricks, using the same cases, clear with no issues.I think you have a peg that is not stock K75 and is longer. Note the shape of the peg (17) in the attached diagram. That's what mine looks like.The second picture shows the 2-piece peg hitting the lock.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-101018142502.png)
Post by: Chaos on October 10, 2018, 03:10:35 PM
Post by: K1300S on October 10, 2018, 05:05:17 PM
my rear pegs brush the type 3 locks on my city cases, the clear the older flat locks on my regular cases.
both my type 3 city and normal cases clear the rear pegs on my 92 and 94 K75s, and the 96 K1100RS SE.
Post by: Martin on October 10, 2018, 05:49:50 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: natalena on October 10, 2018, 08:25:07 PM
I think you have a peg that is not stock K75 and is longer. Note the shape of the peg (17) in the attached diagram. That's what mine looks like.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-101018142502.png)
I would tend to agree they aren't stock for the 1987 K75S, unless the design dept. was dropping molly that day. They are genuine BMW parts though, with the casting "BMW" on the end cap. They do work splendid, just not with these cases.
Post by: Laitch on October 10, 2018, 08:27:01 PM
I would tend to agree they aren't stock for the 1987 K75S . . .That's why they aren't clearing the case, finely wrought though they might be.
Post by: Laitch on October 10, 2018, 08:39:15 PM
Post by: natalena on October 11, 2018, 09:47:19 AM
RCGreaves has some K75S pegs for sale in the FS WTB WTT section.
Thanks, I checked first with RCG but didn't need the entire plate assembly. Bought a great pair from another MB member, and the rest is history.
It's funny how little details like this can bother me. The old pegs worked, just not "correct" entirely. Sort of like a café I built in '83 that never was sexy until the back 3" was cut from the fender, and bike painted Vermillion Red. Then it was AWESOME!
Post by: mophead on October 12, 2018, 03:42:02 PM
Post by: lilau3 on October 20, 2018, 03:56:18 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 20, 2018, 09:15:43 AM
Pulled front forks off in preperation for rebuild....Disassemble and reassemble one side at a time.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 09:22:28 AM
Yeah, I need a life.
Post by: Laitch on October 20, 2018, 09:36:51 AM
I swapped the LED's from Ilsa to Moby Brick Too. Now the instrument lights match the color of the bike. Red on Ilsa to match the Mystic Red paint and blue on Moby Brick Too to match the white and blue paint job.Such momentous change needs photo documentation. Please don't let us down!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 09:39:51 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 20, 2018, 09:43:26 AM
It's going to have to wait until it gets dark.Mood lighting—great idea!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 09:45:02 AM
Mood lighting—great idea!
Damn right! And I didn't have to loop the frame to do it.
Post by: bocutter Ed on October 20, 2018, 10:39:27 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 11:27:26 AM
Such momentous change needs photo documentation. Please don't let us down!
Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS
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Moby Brick Too
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Post by: rbm on October 20, 2018, 02:01:04 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 02:43:41 PM
Besides, I don't reside in an urban combat zone and don't have the ambition to travel into the city to be in one. I suppose I could find a local brick wall or railroad track.
Hey, outta my way, Douchebags, I got a cafe racer I need to photograph.
http://www.rockandrollconfidential.com/hall/hall_detail.php?dd_keyid=369
Post by: John Lang on October 20, 2018, 07:01:05 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3418-201018151803.jpeg)
I also discovered that the PO had over-torqued a valve cover bolt, cracking the soft yet brittle camshaft bearing cap into which it fastens. It would no longer hold the bolt.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3418-201018152231.jpeg)
My attempt to 'fix' it by inserting a Heli-coil resulted in the female thread body disintegrating into several pieces. The camshaft bearing cap is not a separate part but integral to the cylinder head; the bearings are line-bored. My machinist friend sprang into action. First, he Krazy-glued the pieces together and took careful measurements. He then transformed the end of a steel rod into a ring that fits snugly over the broken threads. Finally, we re-tapped for another Heli-coil and it held. The valve cover is back on and all bolts are correctly torqued.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3418-201018151532.jpeg)
Moral: get yourself a helpful buddy with a garage full of strange lathes, presses and metal saws. And always use a torque wrench!
Post by: jakgieger on October 20, 2018, 07:35:39 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 20, 2018, 07:37:51 PM
Post by: Supershooter on October 22, 2018, 10:19:57 PM
Supershooter
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 23, 2018, 03:47:49 PM
I took off work and rode it! All my clients were busy with grain harvest, so I ran the Brick to test previous work I had done. The bike ran without issue for a couple hours this afternoon, slowly building confidence it may run well going forward.
Supershooter
:clap: It's been a long road getting to this point, here's hoping the road ahead is much, much longer.
Post by: Laitch on October 23, 2018, 04:23:50 PM
I took off work and rode it!:yippee:
Post by: Filmcamera on November 02, 2018, 06:41:39 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3823-021118183350-1822383.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3823-021118183346-18202439.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3823-021118183346-18201303.jpeg)
Post by: K1300S on November 02, 2018, 10:27:53 PM
I took off work and rode it!
Supershooter
i did that yesterday too! sunny and 75...on 01NOV in Virginia. actually spent about an hour running all the traps on an MSF school lot with noone around. great fun.....and practice.
Post by: natalena on November 05, 2018, 06:06:43 PM
Post by: rdivy725 on November 06, 2018, 03:19:10 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 06, 2018, 06:46:35 PM
Spline lube was the last thing I did.
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Not too bad for 93,000 miles.
A little cosmetics on the fairing and she'll be ready for another year and the 100,000 mile mark.
Post by: holmesy on November 07, 2018, 07:59:22 AM
Post by: holmesy on November 07, 2018, 08:00:39 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2018, 09:29:19 AM
^^^ I have angered the K bike GodsYou'll no doubt enjoy their wrath. :giggles
Post by: Martin on November 07, 2018, 02:36:55 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: twowheeledgator on November 09, 2018, 02:08:33 PM
Right front rotor. One pad was as thick as a new one and the other was down to the metal.
Cracked it open. Pistons looked good. Cleaned, replaced the rubber and the bolts. New pads. Bled. Back in business. It was very easy. Started with a air to blow the piston and slowly cranked it up so I didn’t shoot it across the room.
Everything looked pretty good. Not sure why the outer piston was not working. Will see in a few months how it wears. The other caliper was wearing evenly. I feel wrong not taking them apart and cleaning and replacing the seals so they are both done at the same time. For now I will just leave well enough alone.
Post by: billday on November 09, 2018, 02:53:49 PM
Right front rotor. One pad was as thick as a new one and the other was down to the metal.
Cracked it open. Pistons looked good. Cleaned, replaced the rubber and the bolts. New pads. Bled. Back in business. It was very easy. Started with a air to blow the piston and slowly cranked it up so I didn’t shoot it across the room.
Everything looked pretty good. Not sure why the outer piston was not working. Will see in a few months how it wears. The other caliper was wearing evenly. I feel wrong not taking them apart and cleaning and replacing the seals so they are both done at the same time. For now I will just leave well enough alone.
Did you buy a rebuild kit? Whose? Thanks, Bill
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 09, 2018, 03:05:35 PM
Post by: holmesy on November 11, 2018, 04:32:54 AM
you are doomed, I see vast electrical problems in your future, caused by incurring the wrath of the gods. You need to appease them with a appropriate sacrifice. :beehive:
Regards Martin.
I also see vast electrical problems. One of the main reasons the lunch box is staying until I’ve ironed out all the other bugs and get it riding right.
I’ve seen all the threads on the wiring and it will be an effort. I’ve got 12 months to get it done proper, but might pay the premium and get one of those magic boxes and a new motogadget
Post by: K1300S on November 12, 2018, 09:55:22 PM
ProGrip 714's. had to trim off the "rings" on the inside of the left one to accomodate the SENA comms remote.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20181109_172741.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20181109_172741.jpg.html)
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20181109_172802.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20181109_172802.jpg.html)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 12, 2018, 10:11:01 PM
Post by: K1300S on November 13, 2018, 07:55:56 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 13, 2018, 08:05:22 AM
Pro Grip 714 grips are my favorite.Those grips were on my used K75 when I bought it. Now I know what they are. Thanks for the photo. They've been durable.
Post by: mw074 on November 13, 2018, 08:44:21 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 13, 2018, 09:11:17 AM
I liked the fit, finish, and feel of the ProGrip gel grips. However, the older ones that I ran would crack when riding in below freezing temperatures. Not sure if the newer ones do.How old is older? That is the question.
These grips were on my moto when I bought it in 2013. Yearly, I have ridden in temperatures from 32ºF down to 17ºF until salt has been applied to the roads here. That duration is frequently three weeks long. The moto is stored in a unheated garage that is below freezing temperature—much of the winter. There has been no sign of cracking in these grips.
I don't have aching hands or get the heebie-jeebies during or after riding season, so I'd classify them as comfortable.
Post by: mw074 on November 13, 2018, 09:28:22 AM
Post by: johnny on November 13, 2018, 09:37:29 AM
mines are split... gonna go with the 714s next time in red for conspicuity... spring of 19 for sure... yeeeeehaaaaa...
j o
09progrip714dualsportg.jpg (29.78 kB . 450x450 - viewed 419 times)
Post by: Laitch on November 13, 2018, 09:49:40 AM
... gonna go with the 714s next time in red for conspicuity...I'm considering a windsock mounted on a barber pole for that purpose.
Post by: rdivy725 on November 13, 2018, 10:05:37 AM
greetings...
mines are split... gonna go with the 714s next time in red for conspicuity... spring of 19 for sure... yeeeeehaaaaa...
j o
I just put a pair of those on over the weekend-purchased from Amazon. A great grip for the price!
Post by: Chaos on November 13, 2018, 10:08:40 AM
greetings...
... gonna go with the 714s next time in red for conspicuity...
I go the opposite route, conspicuousness make you a better target. Radar absorbing black foam, just like it came from der vaterland
Post by: johnny on November 13, 2018, 10:29:03 AM
intetesting you say that... i covered my brick with black aramaflex tape for that very reason... aints gotts pulled over since...
download.jpeg (13.99 kB . 322x357 - viewed 418 times)j o
Post by: K1300S on November 13, 2018, 11:27:47 AM
I just put a pair of those on over the weekend-purchased from Amazon. A great grip for the price!
yup. got mine there too. heck, for less than $10 a pair, you can change them every month with a different color for the seasons! CHEAP!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 13, 2018, 01:39:19 PM
I hope you are able to read this before the government takes it down.
Post by: Laitch on November 13, 2018, 02:38:33 PM
Speaking of stealth, there is nothing that is as absorbent as kitty litter.The retired colonel of the local militia is allergic to cats. He has shingled his moto and sidecar with Depend Fit-Flex.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 13, 2018, 04:43:11 PM
The retired colonel of the local militia is allergic to cats. He has shingled his moto and sidecar with Depend Fit-Flex.
Technology marches on...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 13, 2018, 04:47:51 PM
Speaking of stealth, there is nothing that is as absorbent as ***** ******. Mix it with **** ***** ***** and radar will never see you. There is a reason that truckloads of the stuff is delivered to Area 51.
I hope you are able to read this before the government takes it down.
Uh-oh, looks like the NSA/CIA got to my post.
Post by: natalena on November 18, 2018, 08:20:28 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 18, 2018, 10:02:18 AM
For $20 you can't go wrong!
Bobs BMW Bar-end weights (https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/product/stainless-bar-end-weight-set-for-155mm-id-bars)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/3823-181118095852-18651349.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 18, 2018, 10:09:38 AM
Yech!
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Next week, my riding pants.
Post by: K1300S on November 18, 2018, 10:53:26 AM
i just cleaned my helment liners last week also.
Post by: K1300S on November 18, 2018, 10:59:30 AM
Finished the bike rack/tray for the Brick, for when I can't decide which set of 2-wheels to ride. Best part is, it addresses the conspicuity concerns by being carbon fiber, really long and tall, see-thru, and silly enough to garner attention .. so it's there, but not there at the same time! Time for more spice mélange :) First pic shows up-use of aluminum "T stock" for reinforcement of cowl. 2nd pic zip ties will eventually get bolts, everything is rubber mounted with West 5200 to not mar the original rack.
yeow, even with that aluminum t stock, that rear cowl is NOT that strong. the lever arm on that bike rack is long and the mounting surface on the cowl is tiny. kinda scary. at a mininum i would think moving the entire rack forward a foot or so over the pillon seat would decrease the lever moment of the bike on the cowl. even with that though....
Post by: Chaos on November 18, 2018, 11:27:53 AM
yeow, even with that aluminum t stock, that rear cowl is NOT that strong.
Yeah, start bouncing around on some potholes and that cowl could let go. I'd at least secure it to the frame, but the set up in general gives me the willies. This is the only way I carry my bikes on a motorcycle
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 18, 2018, 11:35:43 AM
yikes....that wash water is nasty!
i just cleaned my helment liners last week also.
I usually do all my gear once a year, but missed last year because of my accident. It's amazing how much crap my gear collects. Used to be the soot from diesel exhaust that was the worst. Not so much a problem anymore, now it just seems to be good old dirt and dust. The spray from other vehicles is where most of it comes from.
Looking at some of the stains as the jacket is drying, I should have rubbed a few spots with Dawn dish detergent. Maybe next year.
Post by: mdk_mdk on November 18, 2018, 12:23:17 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 18, 2018, 02:06:20 PM
Hey, I've been wanting to wash my jacket also, did you use a washing machine or just hand wash?Many textile riding jackets are hand wash/air dry—no washer or dryer. If yours doesn't have a care label, follow that routine.
Post by: johnny on November 18, 2018, 03:18:37 PM
front load machine with a bottle of this...
download.jpeg (9.38 kB . 300x300 - viewed 384 times)then after a hang dry a bottle of this...
71wBZHek9GL._SX679_.jpg (20.99 kB . 576x576 - viewed 406 times)j o
Post by: Laitch on November 18, 2018, 03:35:53 PM
front load machine with a bottle of this...then after a hang dry a bottle of this...Not for personal ingestion, but could be helpful for repelling bucks in rut and meteors, if there is anything left of your gear after the wash.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 18, 2018, 07:02:55 PM
Hey, I've been wanting to wash my jacket also, did you use a washing machine or just hand wash?
I do it right in the laundry tub. I filled about 1/3 full with warm water, add a 1/2 cap of laundry detergent and a squirt of Dawn dish detergent. Any spots on the jacket get a drop or two of Dawn and a bit of a rub with my fingertips. Then into the tub and let it soak for about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes of soaking, work it around in the water. I use an old toilet plunger to work it around, kind of like churning butter. I do that for another 5 minutes.
Pull the jacket out and let it drain until as much of the dirty water is out as possible. Let the water out of the tub and refill about 1/3 full of warm water and repeat the churning to rinse the soap and dirt out. Remove, drain the jacket and depending on how bad the rinse water is do another rinse. Hang it on a sturdy hanger with a 5 foot piece of PVC pipe through the sleeves for a couple days to dry.
Post by: natalena on November 18, 2018, 08:09:20 PM
yeow, even with that aluminum t stock, that rear cowl is NOT that strong. the lever arm on that bike rack is long and the mounting surface on the cowl is tiny. kinda scary. at a mininum i would think moving the entire rack forward a foot or so over the pillon seat would decrease the lever moment of the bike on the cowl. even with that though....
Great comments on the fulcrum, it's been road tested on fairly smooth highway (210 and 301), so the bouncing of rough roads may cause fatigue cracks. It's the first iteration, so tweaking is ahead. FWIW, I closed the garage door on the end, and it bent the tray down without cracking the cowl. Straps on the handlebar drops to the sidecase frames really does a lot to stabilize and "firm up" the bike. No problems going through twisties.
Chaos, I only wish I had a hack. Perfect for carrying a few beers for after the bike ride.
Post by: Laitch on November 19, 2018, 10:27:42 AM
I use an old toilet plunger to work it around, kind of like churning butter.Churning butter with a toilet plunger is certain to build the immune systems of those who survive consuming it. :2thumbup:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 19, 2018, 10:33:37 AM
Churning butter with a toilet plunger is certain to build the immune systems of those who survive consuming it. :2thumbup:
Is that why Vermonters are such a hardy group? We get our butter from the grocery store.
Post by: Laitch on November 19, 2018, 10:35:38 AM
We get our butter from the grocery store.Not according to your previous post. Look, there's nothing to be embarrassed about. You're resourceful. :clap:
Post by: Laitch on November 19, 2018, 10:41:54 AM
I closed the garage door on the end, and it bent the tray down without cracking the cowl.Now that's what I call ingenious product testing. :clap:
Post by: mdk_mdk on November 19, 2018, 12:16:05 PM
I do it right in the laundry tub. I filled about 1/3 full with warm water, add a 1/2 cap of laundry detergent and a squirt of Dawn dish detergent. Any spots on the jacket get a drop or two of Dawn and a bit of a rub with my fingertips. Then into the tub and let it soak for about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes of soaking, work it around in the water. I use an old toilet plunger to work it around, kind of like churning butter. I do that for another 5 minutes.
Pull the jacket out and let it drain until as much of the dirty water is out as possible. Let the water out of the tub and refill about 1/3 full of warm water and repeat the churning to rinse the soap and dirt out. Remove, drain the jacket and depending on how bad the rinse water is do another rinse. Hang it on a sturdy hanger with a 5 foot piece of PVC pipe through the sleeves for a couple days to dry.
Post by: alexg on November 19, 2018, 12:20:46 PM
I was thinking about the bike rack off the rear luggage rack. I think that the strength of material problems can be solved. However, the change in driving dynamics might still be noticeable. Basically, depending on how heavy the bicycle is, how tall and how far back, it might affect the efforts to lean the bike into a curve, and also the rotational inertia moment on the vertical axis (which will affect how fast the thing will respond to cornering efforts).
AlexG
Post by: natalena on November 19, 2018, 03:26:47 PM
I was thinking about the bike rack off the rear luggage rack. I think that the strength of material problems can be solved. However, the change in driving dynamics might still be noticeable. Basically, depending on how heavy the bicycle is, how tall and how far back, it might affect the efforts to lean the bike into a curve, and also the rotational inertia moment on the vertical axis (which will affect how fast the thing will respond to cornering efforts).
Hi Alex, we're on the same page with the changes to ride dynamics. The 2 test bikes were a 22lb round tube traditional carbon (Allez Epic), and an 18lb aero frame (Cervelo P2C). Upshot is there was no noticeable difference in the two bikes effect on ride/handling. There is minimal effect on reasonable speed sweeping turns, and low speed intersection turns are noticeable and not as 'heavy' feeling as two-up of course. Braking is the same, in both straight and leaning before turns. I'm looking at building a small internal cage for the cowl, which will mount onto the rear frame loop...this may wonky up the electronics per MB experts, but this is a "reverse café" so it may help the electrics. ;)
The most noticeable effect is at a standstill when leaning the bike onto the sidestand, feels a little top heavy, even for the K75s.
There is a HUGE improvement on stability and vibration by ratcheting the handlebar drops to the square sidecase "lock" hole. It tightens up, and tensions the frame forward enough where a wheelie at a stoplight, or stoppie in the carpool lane would be comfortable. No plans on testing that extreme though.
Cheers
Post by: island_boy on November 19, 2018, 08:02:42 PM
Impressive!
Post by: natalena on November 19, 2018, 08:32:37 PM
There's a guy down South here who shows up to triathlon's on motorcycle, with tent and bike rack mounted like this. He welded it up/fab'd it himself. It works quite well, and he does the races on a very low cost basis.
Impressive!
Super cool. I'm all for getting near zero carbon (known for bringing back deer draped on the bars and seat, on a MTB). FWIW, riding with a bicycle is easy-peasy compared to riding with an 8'6" triple stringer surfboard, I'll look for the pics on my 900 Ninja when we lived in San Diego.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 26, 2018, 10:31:15 PM
Got them so cheap because they didn't have a key. Grabbed one of the Ilsa's spare keys, and it worked!!!!!!
Some times things come out way better than we deserve them to.
Post by: Chaos on November 26, 2018, 11:25:26 PM
City cases are the biz for commuting or running errands around town.
Picked up a set last year and luv em. Don't usually need the extra space and was always banging into the big cases in my crowded garage. Not to mention the improved aerodynamics. Good deal you got there.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2018, 02:18:01 PM
Another bonus is that they are about 10 times easier to remove and install than the standard cases. Downside of that is that you have to be careful to have them securely attached to the bike.
Post by: Laitch on November 27, 2018, 02:37:18 PM
Beyond the trimmer size I really like the single catch and the internal pocket. Makes them very easy to open, and you can just toss whatever you have inside and close them up.Would naked mole rats be comfortable in them?
Post by: Martin on November 27, 2018, 04:09:12 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: K1300S on November 27, 2018, 04:12:27 PM
Beyond the trimmer size I really like the single catch and the internal pocket. Makes them very easy to open, and you can just toss whatever you have inside and close them up. The only time I need the extra volume of the regular cases is when I'm out on a cross-country trip.
Another bonus is that they are about 10 times easier to remove and install than the standard cases. Downside of that is that you have to be careful to have them securely attached to the bike.
every since i got my city cases a few years ago, the full size cases have been gathering dust. the city's are so much better for day trips....i rarely take them off.
i actually have two sets of the type 3 full size cases...should get rid of a set since i never use them!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2018, 05:48:53 PM
The big ones on my RT stay there because I rarely use that bike for anything less than a weekend. On that bike I adjust cargo capacity by adding or subtracting the iconic 22 liter top case.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2018, 06:08:28 PM
I realize that a six of beer is cutting it pretty close for an Ozian, but works fairly well for us Yanks. Careful packing can allow you to get as many as 8 12oz. cans in there, but you have to drink a bit faster to empty them before the reduced amount of ice melts. I have heard of guys who extend the cooling capacity by freezing some of them and using the frozen beer to augment the ice. Not sure I want to go that far.
Post by: Martin on November 27, 2018, 06:39:52 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2018, 10:11:05 PM
They are the perfect size for running around town or commuting. When I go to work, I carry a pair of shoes, a change of clothes, towel and shaving kit along with my laptop and lunch in them.
Post by: Martin on November 27, 2018, 10:41:57 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chaos on November 27, 2018, 10:46:03 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2018, 10:51:05 PM
Good to hear everyone talking up the city cases. They're already rare, if they become sought after iconic items the price will skyrocket and I can sell mine to buy Ural parts!
Brilliant!!!!
Post by: natalena on December 04, 2018, 07:19:11 AM
Now to figure out how to carry the kayak to the boat launch.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on December 13, 2018, 01:16:39 AM
Yesterday I carried the K behind my van to the new house, the last of four bikes to move. Rode it back today, leaving the van and trailer. Took US 70 the whole way, nice scenic road. Should be even nicer once Spring comes and I don't need to bundle up.
Water temp never went over 100. I think the bike likes the cool temps better than I do.
Big truck next week and the move will be complete.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 13, 2018, 11:32:29 AM
Water temp never went over 100. I think the bike likes the cool temps better than I do.
Blitz, good to hear you're enjoying your bike. Too much snow and ice on the driveway here to get out now, but the weekend is supposed to be better.
That temperature doesn't sound right. How is your thermostat? Have you checked your spark plugs lately? Are they sooty? How is the gas mileage? Should be in the mid 40's. My experience is that they still run at normal operating temperature in cold weather, it just takes a bit longer to get warmed up.
Post by: K1300S on December 13, 2018, 04:50:23 PM
Blitz, good to hear you're enjoying your bike. Too much snow and ice on the driveway here to get out now, but the weekend is supposed to be better.
That temperature doesn't sound right. How is your thermostat? Have you checked your spark plugs lately? Are they sooty? How is the gas mileage? Should be in the mid 40's. My experience is that they still run at normal operating temperature in cold weather, it just takes a bit longer to get warmed up.
agree. 100 is WAY too low an operating temp. that is not even warmed up.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on December 13, 2018, 06:46:52 PM
I'll see what the mileage is once I fill the tank. I haven't checked that since I refurbed the intakes.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 13, 2018, 11:12:08 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on December 25, 2018, 01:49:14 AM
Once at my new place, with everything else off the truck, I was struggling with turning the beast around inside the truck to ride it off. Curious neighbor dude showed up just in time to help slide the rear end around and spot me as I rode down the ramp.
Gustav is in his new home and I can take the fairing off for repair before riding season.
Only downer is that I popped one mirror off to keep it from bumping the side of the truck during transport. Of course, it fell to the floor. Now I gotta find another discontinued turn signal lens.
Post by: Martin on December 25, 2018, 03:30:22 AM
Merry Chritmas regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 25, 2018, 11:23:25 AM
I think there is someone selling aftermarket lenses, and I think their price might be a buck or so less.
While you're in there, you might want to blow some cash on the clips that hold the mirrors onto the fairing. I replaced some of mine and it made a BIG difference in how hard it is to knock them off.
p/n 46 63 1 455 047 "Clamp" for the amazing price of only $6.63 each.
And you also want to make lanyards to hold the mirror when it gets a knock. A couple feet of stainless steel fishing leader and some crimp sleeves.
Post by: K1300S on December 25, 2018, 12:55:34 PM
BG try Max BMW I believe they now have them back in stock.
Merry Chritmas regards Martin.
yup. been back in production for a while.
Post by: Supershooter on December 25, 2018, 09:26:22 PM
Merry Christmas!
Supetshooter
Post by: Martin on December 25, 2018, 09:52:53 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Supershooter on December 25, 2018, 09:56:36 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Martin on December 25, 2018, 10:39:30 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: johnny on December 26, 2018, 08:31:06 AM
this is the one...
http://products.batterytender.com/Dion/Battery-Tender-Junior-12V-0-75A.html
021-0123-BT_Junior_R.jpg (27.01 kB . 576x576 - viewed 430 times)when mine steeds makes it into the barn i plugs them in while fully charged... they stay that way till i saddle them up for the next fieldmeet... 100% reliable over time...
j o
Post by: Laitch on December 26, 2018, 11:42:39 AM
I had one and it ruined every battery I used it one. So I'm hesitatant to get another.What is meant by ruined—the battery wouldn't hold a charge, the battery's case cracked? What type of batteries were ruined—regular lead acid, AGM, GEL, lithium iron, lithium ion? In what range of air temperature was it charged?
The essential element in battery storage is that a battery within its functional service lifespan be fully charged when it goes into prolonged storage (like off-season storage)—in frigid or hot weather—regardless of whether it is to be stored simply with the battery ground cable disconnected from the transmission, or stored with its battery connected to a high-quality trickle charger. Using either technique, the battery should start the engine when the moto is eventually taken out of storage.
A slow charger, fast charger or trickle charger is unlikely to restore a chronically discharged motorcycle battery.
Post by: natalena on December 26, 2018, 08:36:37 PM
http://products.batterytender.com/Dion/Battery-Tender-Junior-12V-0-75A.html
And, a bonus is the attachment dongles (sold separately for about 10 bucks) that have USB or fag holes to plug in accessories.
Post by: Supershooter on December 27, 2018, 09:22:10 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Laitch on December 27, 2018, 10:19:01 PM
All of the batteries were lead acid batteries and mostly maintenance free models. It took out batteries on two HD's, 2 Hondas's, and a BMW.What is the product number on the charger case? Did you contact the manufacturer?
Post by: rbm on December 28, 2018, 12:32:06 AM
I use this charger:
(http://www.ctmotorcycleservices.co.uk/assets/images/products/CTEK-3600-Charger.png)
Post by: beemuker on January 05, 2019, 08:38:17 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2019, 08:49:31 AM
Post by: alabrew on January 05, 2019, 11:56:35 AM
Post by: natalena on January 05, 2019, 11:57:38 AM
Post by: Chaos on January 05, 2019, 12:14:34 PM
In my opinion, The best oil you can use is oil you can get at a reasonable price. Our bricks engines are basically car engines and I don't think they care one bit whether the oil came from dinosaurs or a lab.
Ditto. The only oil related failure I've seen with a brick is lack of it or in the case of a sticking sprag clutch, not being changed regularly. I regularly use cheapest name brand 10-40 I can find and mix and match leftover oil from my other vehicles. After 200k plus miles debating the pros and cons of oil is pretty much a theoretical dead end, imho.
Post by: natalena on January 05, 2019, 12:30:09 PM
Thank you. So I’ll go with the cheaper oil for my pocket. Oh, and you ever use duck eggs for scotch eggs? Very nice. Much richer. My mother makes them for me. More of a meal, as bigger.
Great idea! I'll try it with duckies. Making them again with venison and chicken eggs ... difficult to get the yolks perfectly runny. Cheers
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2019, 01:36:46 PM
Everybody eagerly leapt to life and idled smoothly making a garage full of that beautiful brick music. Only issue is the gear position indicator switch doesn't work until the transmission warms up a little on Ilsa. Looks like I have to go in there again. I guess as long as I'm in there I'll clean the starter commutator and check the alternator monkey nutz since it's been clanking a bit of late.
Post by: Laitch on January 05, 2019, 03:37:59 PM
I looked st mine and scratched my head, again...This might be a scalp issue rather than a mechanical one. :giggles
Post by: Laitch on January 05, 2019, 05:04:24 PM
. . . scratched my head on the sump looking for oil leaks around the filter...It's a biomechanics issue rather than a mechanical one. That's good luck. :giggles
Post by: K1300S on January 05, 2019, 06:08:28 PM
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20190104_133203.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20190104_133203.jpg.html)
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 05, 2019, 08:12:48 PM
Post by: parabrick on January 06, 2019, 04:17:45 PM
Post by: parabrick on January 06, 2019, 04:29:46 PM
Post by: natalena on January 06, 2019, 05:03:16 PM
Post by: champ7fc on January 07, 2019, 06:05:57 PM
Post by: johnny on January 07, 2019, 06:32:08 PM
thats hawt...
j o
Post by: K1300S on January 07, 2019, 06:34:04 PM
but...a restoration is NEVER finished....
Post by: RobP on January 07, 2019, 06:40:20 PM
Great job, looks excellent!
BTW - what process do you use to clean up the aluminum bits with the natural aluminum finish? Also the SS header pipes?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 07, 2019, 07:19:03 PM
It's bikes like this that make me wonder how a hack job can make them look better.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 07, 2019, 07:26:28 PM
Post by: champ7fc on January 07, 2019, 08:36:46 PM
Post by: natalena on January 07, 2019, 09:14:46 PM
Post by: Martin on January 07, 2019, 10:21:05 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 09, 2019, 03:16:29 PM
Did you get the connectors swapped over from the old fan?
Post by: szabgab on January 09, 2019, 06:23:15 PM
I have put ordinary 20W50 mineral oil in the bike, as Haynes suggested. It was performing just fab till now, but as the bike is parked outside (not outside in the elements, but in an open hallway) the engine gets really cold and subsequently relatively hard to start. Even with a freshly charged battery the starter struggles somewhat on first try and that is straining the system. What is your experience, should I use a lighter oil in the winter (that certainly helped my old CB400, a 20W50 oil completely choked that poor bike in the winter) or do I have some other problem, that manifests itself only, when the engine is really cold (-1 to -15 C)?
Thanks!
Post by: Chaos on January 09, 2019, 07:55:10 PM
Post by: K1300S on January 09, 2019, 09:18:52 PM
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 04:15:28 AM
Johnny - although I am sure the Advantec oil is a fine one, but isn't it a synthetic one? I would much rather change a good quality mineral oil on a more frequent basis, than buy something really spiffy and have leaks as a result...
Mlytle, Laitch - I did check, and 20W50 seemed to be the one, that has got the best characteristic all across the spectrum. It might not be after all, as winter commute is hard on the engine, and I am sure, 20W oil is thick as molasses in sub-zero temps
Chaos - You own a Ural? Blimey, I did not know, it was exported outside the iron curtain, let alone to the US :)
Other thing - would it be OK to drain the oil now, store it, and use it again once the weather warms up? I have driven probably 2-300 miles with this oil, and I would hate to get rid of it. Obviously if you say it goes acidic, or whatever whilst stored I'd chuck it away...
Post by: Chaos on January 10, 2019, 10:47:24 AM
Chaos - You own a Ural? Blimey, I did not know, it was exported outside the iron curtain, let alone to the US :)
Iron curtain was ineffective as a barrier and the damn things escaped all over the place. Few, however, actually are seen prowling the neighborhood due to lack of proper socialist oil.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 11:32:22 AM
As far as the Shell Rotella T6, there are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of positive reviews by motorcycle owners who swear by it on the internet.
The viscosity rating is 5W40 and my bikes turn over easily in temperatures lower than -10C.
While I'm sure there are purists who will disagree, I see no reason why lightly used oil couldn't be saved for a few months in a sealed container. Moisture and oxygen are probably the worst enemies of oil, and a tightly sealed jug will keep them out.
Post by: Chaos on January 10, 2019, 12:08:58 PM
Post by: Chaos on January 10, 2019, 12:11:41 PM
If there is any circumstance where being a purist is appropriate, it would be in the use fresh oil in an aging engine that someone wants to preserve in top running condition.
When my BMW was new and got the highest grade BMW branded oil I would drain it and add it to my 1970 Bronco's crankcase, where it promptly blew out of the tailpipe
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 12:55:42 PM
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 01:37:18 PM
It does not include the spectrum of -15ºC and when it thickens if will be slow to recover fluidity when the temperature rises. If you checked the chart, check again. The green arrow shows the end of the 20w50 range. The red arrow shows -15ºC. You need to change oil grades in the winter to the recommendations of johnny or Chaos.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-100119082149.png)
Laitch, Haynes shows a different story, as they suggest 10W40 and 10W50 oils are no good above 5 and 10 degrees centigrade respectively. That was the reason, I went with 20W50. Also we get -15C (or below) on rare occassions, so that was just the extreme point to mention, but anyway, you are right, this oil is just way to thick for my bike even at -2 or -3C
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 01:47:18 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 10, 2019, 03:17:43 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 05:46:14 PM
"Do bears use Charmin'?"
Replace it ASAP. It has the best return on investment of any part you can buy for your brick.
Post by: Soggz on January 10, 2019, 05:49:30 PM
Post by: Soggz on January 10, 2019, 05:51:04 PM
Post by: Soggz on January 10, 2019, 05:52:27 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 05:58:06 PM
HOLY CRAP!!! Those greedy motherf*ckers just raised the damn price on those things almost 65%.
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:02:24 PM
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:08:34 PM
Szabgab, my collection of manuals includes official BMW factory manuals, Chilton and Haynes. Of the bunch, Haynes is the last I use, and then, mostly, only for an additional photo of what I'm working on.
Oh well, you could be very well right on this. I use Haynes (although I have downloaded everything else available) because that was always the workshop book I have used in the past and I am familiar with the layout, typography, what not. Having said that, Clymers seems to be the more thorough book of the two, even if I can not make my head round imperial measurements...
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:17:15 PM
For anyone caught up in the folklore of seals and synthetic oil's affect on them, read this description of their interaction (http://www.k100-forum.com/t14234-engine-oil-quick-check#167225) written by someone with considerable experience in BMWs and the motorcycle industry in general. Read it and a later post by the same respondent.
Laitch, I think the guy just proved, that synthetic indeed can cause leaks. Not in a direct sense, as it is not going to dissolve the rubber but the guy, who always used mineral with no ill effects and puts in a synthetic oil that shows the weakness in the system could not care less, what caused what. All he can see is a leaking seal, that was not leaking before. Obviously there could be yet another theoretical discussion on how much longer the seals would have lasted if he would not have used synthetic...
Obviously after playing devil's advocate and all this discussion on synthetic or dino I went to the toyshop, and bought a quart of semi-synthetic 10W40... It is not a BMW Spiffytech $20/dl oil, but I am destined for hell anyway, so I might as well have gone with Total Classic (as that was on the shelf in the store for a good price) :)
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:26:13 PM
One thing, that can be most certainly substituted though are external fuel lines. BMW charges ridiculous amounts for simple injector high pressure rated lines and there are no particularly hard bends in it either, so for the price of one piece you can replace every fuel line outside the tank.
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:30:17 PM
Nonsense. Unless you're living in the seventies—and I think maybe you are—the post convincingly explains why synthetic oil won't effect our K-motos, and they are the concern of this forum.
Laitch, I live in a post-communistic country with a narcissistic despot at the helm. So in a sense I live in the 1600's :)
You don't have to reside in the seventies to see dried up seals. They go brittle just as the old-old ones used to get, as I'm pretty sure you have experienced a few times replacing them... After all if they would remain pliable, one would never have to replace them
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:42:32 PM
I agree but your moto is from the mid-1980s.
The topic is K-motos and whether synthetic oil degrades their seals. The answer is no. Dirty oil can affect them. Lack of engine use can affect them.
Yes and no. I never said, it degrades the seals, but it could highlight a failing seal by leaking through it, or at least this is how I understand the guy's message in your link. It is all academical after that if the oil was the cause or the messenger :) Either way, even the willingness of leaking past old seals seems to be questionable as proven by the others, who have never had issues with synthetic, so now just find the time to ride the bike long enough to warm up the molasses in the crankcase and replacing it with this semi-synth, I have bought
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:46:48 PM
Iron curtain was ineffective as a barrier and the damn things escaped all over the place. Few, however, actually are seen prowling the neighborhood due to lack of proper socialist oil.
Haha, socialist oil, especially CCCP oil... In times of austerity (that communism was for the masses for 70 years) you could never get proper stuff, so those Urals and Dneprs would probably happily chuff away on mostly anything slightly resembling engine oil :)))
Post by: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:57:48 PM
While I'm sure there are purists who will disagree, I see no reason why lightly used oil couldn't be saved for a few months in a sealed container. Moisture and oxygen are probably the worst enemies of oil, and a tightly sealed jug will keep them out.
Thanks Gryphon. I am not a purist, but a tight-arse, so I might as well try to save the oil for the summer. After all it is another three-four months, till +20C sets in (hope never dies)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 11:02:53 PM
Thanks Gryphon. I am not a purist, but a tight-arse, so I might as well try to save the oil for the summer. After all it is another three-four months, till +20C sets in (hope never dies)
My attitude exactly. If indeed your oil only has 10 hours on it it should be fine as long as you install it with a new filter. Most oil change intervals are based on 200+ hours of run time, 10 is almost nothing. Oxidation and additive depletion are what kills oil. What difference is there in oil that sits idle in the sump for four months vs. oil that sits idle in a sealed jug for four months?
Post by: enb54 on January 12, 2019, 12:23:38 PM
Post by: parabrick on January 16, 2019, 10:15:23 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 17, 2019, 09:13:14 AM
Post by: parabrick on January 17, 2019, 09:18:02 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 17, 2019, 09:27:44 AM
Post by: DavidATL on January 17, 2019, 09:43:48 AM
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Supershooter on January 20, 2019, 10:01:17 PM
Supershooter
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 20, 2019, 11:25:28 PM
Charged the battery and fired it up! Just to shut it off. -10F windchill outside today.
Supershooter
Sounds like your bike is running okay now.
I ran my bikes Friday until the fans cycled. I do that a couple times a month during the winter to keep things limbered up.
Post by: Chaos on January 21, 2019, 12:12:27 AM
Post by: DavidATL on January 21, 2019, 08:25:10 AM
Looks right at home in the snow. :-)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 21, 2019, 11:04:29 AM
"loud valves save lives" HAHAHAHAHAHAHA
LOL! Saw that too.
Post by: K75RT Keith on January 22, 2019, 04:00:23 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 28, 2019, 04:41:42 PM
You have looked at almost everything on the engine with the exception of the engine control unit(ECU) and the signal to the injectors. The fact that your engine is drowning in fuel indicates that the fuel pump is working. If there is a problem with the fuel pump relay, it is that it is stuck ON and the pump is running all the time the ignition is on.
Before you start trying to swap relays, open the tank, and while listening closely inside the tank, turn on the ignition. There should be NO NOISE from the fuel pump. With the transmission in neutral or while holding the clutch lever in, push the starter button briefly, just enough to bump the starter motor. You should be able to hear the pump run for a second or so and then stop. If this is the case, your fuel pump and relay are probably okay. Don't mess with them anymore.
Next, make sure the headlight switch is turned on. With the transmission in neutral, the clutch pulled in, and a fully charged battery, turn on the ignition and push the start button. The headlight should go out while the starter motor is running. If it doesn't, there is a problem with the load shed relay. If it does go out, the relay is okay. Don't fuck with it.
For now, these are the only tests you should be doing. Focus on just these tests. DO NOT BE DISTRACTED!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 28, 2019, 05:12:29 PM
It is possible that the injectors are open all the time. They are powered by 9 volts from the ECU. The switching for them is unusual in that the 9 volts is applied to them all the time the ignition is turned on, and they are actuated by the other terminal being grounded by the ECU.
The way to check them is to pull off the injector connectors, turn on the ignition and check for 9 volts on one of the terminals. Turn off the ignition, and check the resistance between the other terminal in that injector connector and ground. If the resistance is low, there is a problem in the injector wiring or the injector control circuit in the ECU.
Unplug the big connector on the ECU and check the resistance again, if the resistance to ground is still low you have a wire problem. Check the injector cable for a spot with rubbed off insulation allowing the wire to short to ground. If the resistance is high, the cable is okay.
The next test is to put your meter on DC Volts and put the probes on the terminals of one of the injector connectors. While the probes are connected have a helper turn on the ignition. The voltage should be 0.0 volts or very close to it. If it is 9v, the injectors will be open all the time and the engine will be flooded. Your ECU is probably screwed up.
This all you need to do. FOCUS!!!
Post by: Laitch on January 28, 2019, 08:17:26 PM
Post by: Martin on January 30, 2019, 09:47:00 PM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: rdivy725 on February 04, 2019, 01:54:33 PM
Also, went through the box of "extras" the guy I bought it off of, and found what looks like old LED lights and circuitry he had on at one time. I am wondering if he fried the T/S relay (which is not a simple realy, but a "module")
Glad to have the speedo working, but lights are more important.
Lost and confused
Post by: koapono on February 05, 2019, 12:48:52 PM
It's not the best lift available but it will suit my needs just fine for the number of times I'll be using it.
I did modify the front end of lift. Rather than uses the screw-vice supplied with the table I installed a wheel-chock. Now I can roll on the scoot and hop off to attach straps, as the bike remains upright on its own.
This is one of those: "I should have bought one of these 10 years ago" purchases.
Post by: stokester on February 05, 2019, 07:16:07 PM
While having it all apart I will be replacing the fan assembly with one from www.tills.de and probably the fuel pump damper. I thought the fuel line return was OK yawl
Post by: RobP on February 05, 2019, 07:49:51 PM
Post by: stokester on February 05, 2019, 08:29:04 PM
I had Rick Borth at Overseas Speedometer (Austin, TX) swap out the odometer & tripmeter gears in my instrument cluster. I reinstalled the unit and went for a test ride out here in the beautiful Hill Country.And...
Post by: Martin on February 05, 2019, 08:53:00 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: RobP on February 06, 2019, 08:20:38 AM
Quote
And...
Both the odometer and tripmeter worked great!
Post by: szabgab on February 06, 2019, 09:09:16 AM
After 22 pages on this thread, and if cleaning out this little tank valve works.......
No one bloody mentioned it! :buttkick :buttkick
Yeah, but if you would have tried, what was recommended to you some 5 pages ago to check for fuel returning, you would have had that sorted a long time ago. As I said earlier, you are in the best position to check the bike, as you are standing next to it. For us it is poking in the dark
Post by: stokester on February 06, 2019, 09:22:44 AM
Stokester non OEM return lines can crimp over especially in hot weather causing rough running, coughing and spluttering. It can be hard to see because when you move the tank to the rear to inspect the line it uncrimps. I solved the problem by fitting a Unicoil.Thanks Martin.
Regards Martin.
I'll probably go with the OEM formed hose, although expensive it has lasted over 75k miles.
Post by: K1300S on February 06, 2019, 09:50:29 AM
Followed by a full drive shaft and trans input shaft maintenance on the K1100rs.
Busy MC kind of day!
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K1100rs/20190205_213806.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K1100rs/20190205_213806.jpg.html)
Post by: szabgab on February 06, 2019, 10:31:04 AM
Ok. I read on here not to use a resistor plug in these k bikes, as there is already a resister in the lead(?). Motorworks, a bmw place sent me a set of Bosch R0’s. I’m guessing these are resister plugs, hence the ‘R’?.
Perhaps that why it’s not great at starting?
What plugs should I use, if this is the case?
Thanks.
And here are the plugs after the bike ‘breif’ run just now...I’m guessing, too rich?
Yes, they do look rich, however I would not make judgement on these plugs after such a short running. Once you have everything sorted take the bike for a good spin of 20 miles or so and check again.
Also, if you have the wrong plugs, try with the old ones, you still have them?
Post by: Nine80seven on February 06, 2019, 10:51:59 AM
Post by: billday on February 06, 2019, 11:15:15 AM
Took the K13s for a spin, then did the same on the K75. It was a sunny and 70deg February day in VA.
Followed by a full drive shaft and trans input shaft maintenance on the K1100rs.
Busy MC kind of day!
Your garage is cleaner than my living room.
Post by: Martin on February 06, 2019, 11:18:56 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: bocutter Ed on February 07, 2019, 08:51:46 PM
Post by: szabgab on February 08, 2019, 04:16:34 AM
what’s a ‘fuel stretcher’?
Google - http://www.focusappliedtechnologies.com/fs.html
Post by: szabgab on February 15, 2019, 06:17:20 PM
Post by: szabgab on February 16, 2019, 05:12:53 PM
Hi gabszab (sorry, I don't know why I have the urge to say it backwards)
Any chance of a photo, I'm considering something similar too.
Dave, probably it is because of the way, you are used to saying names, first names first :) Call me Gabriel, that is the same over here or in the rest of the world :D
I will get you some pics, once I am back at home, in the meantime this is the bar riser, I have bought (funnily enough the price has risen since by two dollars) - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Anodized-2-Inch-Pivoting-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Riser-For-7-8-22mm-fat-handleBars-Clamp-Universal/32963182766.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.190b4c4dP1OIy6 Do not buy this however, as it is not precisely machined, and the hole distance is 1mm or 1.5mm off, I very nearly stripped the threads on the triple tree trying to bolt it on. The seller was not helpful at all, at the end aliexpress had to step in as he was getting aggressive, strange behaviour from a professional seller...
Post by: szabgab on February 18, 2019, 07:54:49 AM
Hi gabszab (sorry, I don't know why I have the urge to say it backwards)
Any chance of a photo, I'm considering something similar too.
Hi Daveson, finally I managed to be next to the bike equipped with a camera, so here are some pics of the setup...
Post by: Supershooter on February 18, 2019, 10:33:00 PM
What a mess.
Supershooter
Post by: Laitch on February 18, 2019, 11:09:26 PM
There's seems to be a pin hole somewhere in the tank. I just can't seem to find it. It leaked enough to create a puddle of gas on top of the motor.There are ways to repair that. The most certain way is to coat the interior of the the tank but if you can find the leak, other methods might also be effective.
Here's a thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=8430.0) that describes several methods.
Post by: szabgab on February 19, 2019, 04:09:34 PM
The reason I have gone into such antics was to see why is there the loud hissing noise that annoyed me for a long time. There is no return line down to the fuel pump and the petrol from the solid pipe end is hitting first the 'burrito' and the wall of the tank. I was just wondering, if anybody cut that line shorter, as it is not connected to that collector thing (the burrito) it is facing sideways and there is no barb at the end? See the video, sorry for the shaky end, as that was the moment I have realised, the top of the phone is taking it's petrol bath :) https://youtu.be/UCG4aEAgHaI
Post by: szabgab on February 20, 2019, 08:24:36 AM
You don't want to do that because it helps with the fuel mileage.
Oh wait... This could explain, why I did not succeed with the other attempts to lower my dreadful fuel consumption?
Post by: natalena on February 20, 2019, 12:29:53 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 20, 2019, 12:55:33 PM
That groundhog Phil is full of crap ... snow and freezing rain here . . .Strictly speaking, Phil only violates his contract if winter doesn't end before March 20. If weather starts moderating before then, you'll be down for rodentslaughter.
Post by: natalena on February 20, 2019, 03:38:33 PM
Strictly speaking, Phil only violates his contract if winter doesn't end before March 20. If weather starts moderating before then, you'll be down for rodentslaughter.OK, freely label me as a "rodent-ist", as I don't distinguish between groundhogs, marmots, or whistle-pigs .. they're all Union with a super lucrative collective bargaining contract that let's them get fat and lazy. They have bad teeth too! ;)
Post by: Laitch on February 20, 2019, 03:49:29 PM
OK, freely label me as a "rodent-ist" . . .A true rodentist would show compassion and help them with their bad teeth.
Post by: billday on February 20, 2019, 09:00:07 PM
That groundhog Phil is full of crap ... snow and freezing rain here, so a good time to lube/check DS/FD splines and swingarm bearings. Not perfect teeth on the shaft, but good for a couple more season's of reasonably sedate motoring.
My K bike is in about the same situation as yours, though I went all the way to the clutch. I also took the opportunity to clean up and grease the needle bearings on the clutch lever back there. Happy to find my splines as square as ever . . . but not so happy to find gear oil in my swing arm. I did the pinion seal on my final drive a few years back, but have no appetite for doing the one in the nose.
Post by: natalena on February 20, 2019, 09:02:36 PM
Post by: billday on February 20, 2019, 09:04:21 PM
Couple days ago, not wrenching on the Brick, but visiting several of our Maryland Senator's, Delegates, and Chief of Staff to promote safe multi-modal transportation (especially SB804, SB354, SB787). This also includes the awareness and safety promotion for motorcyclists as roadway users at risk from caged vehicles. Banding together!
Kudos to you!
Post by: RobP on February 20, 2019, 09:13:38 PM
I found the hint to use a transmission alignment bolt to be helpful, also lubed them with 3M silicone paste.
Post by: bizzaro on February 24, 2019, 07:20:42 AM
Post by: billday on February 24, 2019, 09:16:17 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2019, 09:40:04 AM
I used to have about a dozen of those pivots that I got in a bunch of parts from a breaker. After several years of giving them to anyone I could get to take one I shitcanned 3 or 4 of them not two months ago. Damn! Isn't that how it always works?
There is a bunch of them on eBay for 15-20 bucks. Search on BMW K100 swingarm pivot pin.
Post by: natalena on February 24, 2019, 10:25:25 AM
Stripped out the Allen hole in my left swingarm pivot pin. Drat.
+1 with TMG idea with Torx bits, penetrating oil, and walking away from it for a day to let it soak.
I've also extracted a stripped FD fill plug with a coarse thread screw extractor, after drilling out the plug head to size. Lot's of penetrating oil.
Not a brick, but I broke a 5mm stainless in a lug, No Bueno! Oiled it, walked away, complained I hate Maryland, and returned hours later to surgically cut a slot, and ooze the bolt out like 007 defusing a Nuc. Then dance around the workbench like a savage, all happy that "I Am Da Man."
Post by: Nine80seven on February 24, 2019, 10:44:05 AM
Post by: billday on February 24, 2019, 12:05:31 PM
I've found that Torx bits can sometimes be used to remove stripped out Allen screws.
I used to have about a dozen of those pivots that I got in a bunch of parts from a breaker. After several years of giving them to anyone I could get to take one I shitcanned 3 or 4 of them not two months ago. Damn! Isn't that how it always works?
There is a bunch of them on eBay for 15-20 bucks. Search on BMW K100 swingarm pivot pin.
Well hell. Anyway, to clarify, it's not the thread that's stripped, it's the socket for the Allen key. Don't know why they make it so soft, and I really have to get more careful about seating the Allen key in there -- this is the second time this has happened to me IIRC. Also, it's not a problem of pulling it, I only discovered the stripped situation when I went to torque it up re-installing it.
Not finding so many of them on Ebay (lots for Airheads for some reason). For $40 (including shipping) I can get a used one from England, or for $60 plus tax I can get a new one from Max. Thinking it over.
Maybe I'll try cutting new fitting in by driving a Torx bit in there. It's not like I'm taking if off more than once every year or two.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 24, 2019, 05:57:20 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-BMW-K75C-K75-C-Swing-Arm-Swingarm-Bolts-Pins/401435440394?hash=item5d776ab50a:g:8HcAAOSwkLhZ~JH3:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=true
Post by: billday on February 24, 2019, 06:40:23 PM
Is this what you're looking for? K75 and K100 use the same part as far as I know. The part numbers are the same.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-BMW-K75C-K75-C-Swing-Arm-Swingarm-Bolts-Pins/401435440394?hash=item5d776ab50a:g:8HcAAOSwkLhZ~JH3:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=true
I found one for even cheaper. Or rather, it found me.
Post by: natalena on February 26, 2019, 09:53:16 AM
Take away: The rear bolts are a pain, as the spacing to install is very tight and mounting a Z-bracket means making custom length bolts. I only wanted 1 sidecase, so it was only a 2 day job. Super heavy duty once installed, and I would not hesitate to belt the baby seat carrier to it and run errands at highway speeds.
Seriously considering a smoke array for the horrible tailgater's here, 4 on each side would do. I also have a small metal tube to deploy a phosphorous flare spread that could cover about 2 lanes, not much, but attention getting. Has anyone done this mod without cutting the rear loop, or interfering with the rear gunner swivel?
Post by: Laitch on February 26, 2019, 09:56:17 AM
Has anyone done this mod without cutting the rear loop, or interfering with the rear gunner swivel?Check with your local F250 Super Duty coaling specialist.
Post by: Chaos on February 27, 2019, 07:38:27 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on March 03, 2019, 07:00:46 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on March 03, 2019, 07:04:38 PM
Post by: szabgab on March 05, 2019, 07:04:29 PM
Post by: szabgab on March 06, 2019, 06:39:17 AM
Post by: Soggz on March 06, 2019, 08:24:17 AM
Today, whilst out and about my bike stopped several times burning number 6 fuse every time. So after running out of fuses and wiggling the fuel pump cable around I had no other option, but to take the tank apart on the side of the road and address this nagging issue. Fortunately there was barely any fuel in there, so I managed to stay relatively smell-free. Turns out PO had soldered a new positive wire to the old one, used heat shrinking tube to shield the hot wire and clamped it to the body of the fuel sender unit. Surely enough heat shrinking tube was not made to be used in petrol, so it all broke up by now making an intermittent contact with earth, burning fuses, but not the bike itself, thank God. So I had to do with what I had, shielded the barren soldered cable with the contact cap from the fuel pump, and clamped the negative cable and the end of the contact cup to the fuel sender, making sure the positive wire is not touching ANYTHING there. It is working since perfectly, but a note to myself, McGyver solutions are OK on the side of the road, but they need to be corrected, once near some proper tools and consumables.’Tick,Tick,Tick...BOOOM!’
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 06, 2019, 10:02:22 AM
Post by: szabgab on March 06, 2019, 11:58:26 AM
Nice roadside troubleshooting! How is the fuel economy issue coming? Have you checked the tripmeter?
Hi Gryphon, yes, I did, in 60 kilometres it was spot on down to the last decimal. Fuel economy - I do not know, as most of the tank was driven with the dirty injectors, so MPG is pretty much the same as before. I have taken the cluster apart today to adjust the speedo, I hope it will not cock up the tripmeter reading...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 06, 2019, 03:18:15 PM
Post by: billday on March 06, 2019, 06:16:36 PM
Mounted '84 KRS.
Nice. The lightening holes are a cool touch.
Post by: natalena on March 21, 2019, 11:26:30 AM
Post by: Kudlaty on March 21, 2019, 03:56:12 PM
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2019, 02:07:28 PM
installed skateboard tape to the innards of my new to me twianese oil filter to ratchet adapter that i scored at the edelweiss mountain deli in stowe vermount...
20190325_101020.jpg (57.04 kB . 576x576 - viewed 590 times)j o
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2019, 04:07:49 PM
my new to me twianese oil filter to ratchet adapter that i scored at the edelweiss mountain deli in stowe vermount...It is also used as a mold for cider donuts, the old-time square-holed Dunkers.
Post by: daveson on March 28, 2019, 05:53:22 AM
This was a used piece of polycarb that you could hardly see through, for the thousands of minor scratches. I glazed them out with a soldering torch. You can see a white mark on the left side, near the top, where I held the torch too long, causing the surface to overheat. I was going to have another attempt to improve it, but I've just got used to it now.
IMG_9161.JPG (106.91 kB . 768x576 - viewed 544 times)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2019, 11:07:36 AM
Bring on the riding weather!
Post by: Chaos on April 01, 2019, 01:17:05 PM
Post by: billday on April 01, 2019, 02:01:12 PM
Post by: Martin on April 01, 2019, 02:13:15 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: rdivy725 on April 01, 2019, 06:22:14 PM
Tried to chrome plate it, something went horribly wrong.
Termibrickinator
Post by: rbm on April 01, 2019, 09:54:44 PM
Post by: Martin on April 03, 2019, 12:07:41 AM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 03, 2019, 12:27:45 AM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Machinist-1pc-Set-Automotive-Current-Tester-Detector-Automotive-Fuse-Ammeter/183697965566?hash=item2ac54081fe:g:ZLUAAOSwJoxcb7dK&frcectupt=true
Post by: Martin on April 03, 2019, 12:53:43 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 03, 2019, 08:35:14 AM
Post by: MIbrick on April 06, 2019, 02:59:42 PM
Things discovered:
Need to re-learn "don't put weight on wrists, you have a core, use it"
There's an odd stumble/hesitance at about 3800-3900 regardless of gear; will have to dig in to that. Maybe it's just the fuel, will see what happens with a fresh tank.
Auto death machine pilots still don't look for motorcycles, same as it was when I put her up for the winter.
Post by: johnny on April 06, 2019, 04:26:20 PM
3800 stumble = throttle sync... be sure to do it with fresh no corn ethy... and 4 or 5 bottles of techron afterwards of course...
j o
Post by: MIbrick on April 06, 2019, 06:46:07 PM
greetings..
3800 stumble = throttle sync... be sure to do it with fresh no corn ethy... and 4 or 5 bottles of techron afterwards of course...
j o
Throttle sync is on my list of things to do, guess it gets moved to the top. Now to remember where I stored that SyncPro thing. I'm sure it was someplace I'd never forget. :\
Post by: duckhawk on April 07, 2019, 12:58:11 PM
How do they look after the clean up?
Post by: johnny on April 07, 2019, 01:04:33 PM
not good... you better find some new ones... i will come down to fetch those so they dont end up in a landfill...
j io
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 07, 2019, 08:39:08 PM
Post by: Supershooter on April 07, 2019, 10:20:29 PM
In my effort to light the light and run the fan neither happened.
Either I've got wiring issues or I didn't understand the directions. I'm leaning towards I did it wrong, because I have had the light come on when it did overheat.
Thoughts
Supershooter
Post by: duckhawk on April 08, 2019, 09:42:03 AM
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on April 09, 2019, 07:55:20 PM
However there is an oily mess behind the throttle bodies. I'm assuming a breather is leaking. Guess I should look up how to pull the tank!
Post by: billday on April 10, 2019, 08:48:54 AM
However there is an oily mess behind the throttle bodies. I'm assuming a breather is leaking. Guess I should look up how to pull the tank!
Before you do that, have a look at the Z-pipe.
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on April 10, 2019, 05:05:13 PM
Before you do that, have a look at the Z-pipe.
Thanks for the heads up! Seems to be a good place to start as they are so common!
Post by: natalena on April 13, 2019, 07:51:24 AM
How do they look after the clean up?
In a word, "spectacular."
Post by: MIbrick on April 13, 2019, 09:33:16 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 14, 2019, 10:21:41 PM
High winds here today, and guess which bike blew over. Of course, the heavy one which I cannot pick up!
Guess I should have taken the cover off. Those things act like a parachute once the wind gets under them.
Since I retired all my neighbors are old women, no help there. I've watched all those videos of women picking up Harleys, but that method just doesn't work for me on this machine.
I need to build a cage for this bike and strap it to the walls.
Post by: Laitch on April 14, 2019, 10:24:16 PM
High winds here today, and guess which bike blew over.Was it on the side stand or center stand?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 14, 2019, 10:30:54 PM
Post by: Scott_ on April 14, 2019, 10:37:26 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 14, 2019, 10:45:53 PM
The first, and last, time I used the center stand it fell over when I took it off the stand.Were you astride it or beside it when you rolled it off the stand? Was the moto parked on pavement when the wind tackled it this time?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 14, 2019, 11:03:33 PM
Were you astride it or beside it when you rolled it off the stand? Was the moto parked on pavement when the wind tackled it this time?I took it off the stand following the directions in the BMW shop manual, standing next to it handle in right hand, handlebar grip in left. It immediately fell away from me. I do take my British bikes off the center stand while seated, but even the Trident weighs only 450 lbs..
Yes, the bike was parked on pavement in the carport.
I have a fiberglass repair kit. I guess there's a reason I haven't used it yet. That side of the fairing is doomed to be ugly.
Post by: Martin on April 15, 2019, 02:18:27 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: RobP on April 15, 2019, 12:16:03 PM
I use both handlebar grips when rolling backward to put it on the stand, and then only move my right land to the lift lever after I feel both 'feet' on the centerstand are engaged with the ground. I brace my right knee under the lift handle / right hand and use my ankle/ lower leg muscles for most of the lift effort.
I don't like the side stand, the bike leans too far over and seems sketchy if the ground is soft or slightly uneven. I need to get around to welding a 1/2" steel riser plate to the bottom pad of the side stand.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 15, 2019, 12:52:29 PM
I don't like the side stand, the bike leans too far over and seems sketchy if the ground is soft or slightly uneven. I need to get around to welding a 1/2" steel riser plate to the bottom pad of the side stand.Pretty much all side stands make the bike lean too far. All mine have their own short 2x4 on which to plant the stand. And I carry a small stand pad when I go camping.
Perhaps if the Brick had not been on the 2x4 it would have leaned over far enough to resist the wind gust?
Post by: mw074 on April 15, 2019, 01:01:12 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 15, 2019, 01:46:38 PM
I don't like the side stand, the bike leans too far over and seems sketchy if the ground is soft or slightly uneven. I need to get around to welding a 1/2" steel riser plate to the bottom pad of the side stand.On soft ground I always use the side stand. I carry a plastic puck in my tank bag that I put under the stand when I deploy it. One time, the moto tipped over when I used the center stand on soft terrain. Once was enough.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-150419134103.png)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 16, 2019, 12:58:28 AM
FWIW: British side stands have a bit larger contact area with the ground.
Post by: daveson on April 16, 2019, 06:46:53 AM
Feels like way more power than my RT, I spose its because of less weight. Way more fun. Not as far forward leaning as i remembered.
Post by: Soggz on April 16, 2019, 05:37:01 PM
Balanced the tb’s, today.
Post by: rbm on April 16, 2019, 07:13:26 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 16, 2019, 08:41:06 PM
I'm 62, and riding the K for distance does ache a bit between my shoulder blades. Nothing new, the Trident with euro bars hurts in the same place, but that was true 30 years ago too.
I was able to get the beast back on his wheels today. I used about 6" of wood under the floor jack with the jack on the top rear shock mount. Got the bike leaned up enough to push it over from there. Only a 1" pad under the stand now.
Gotta get that garage built.
Post by: Soggz on April 17, 2019, 02:06:23 AM
Man, that's a pretty color! I really should have gotten a K75S. I think it would suit me better than the K100, and I could probably pick it up if it fell over.get another bsa gold star.
I'm 62, and riding the K for distance does ache a bit between my shoulder blades. Nothing new, the Trident with euro bars hurts in the same place, but that was true 30 years ago too.
I was able to get the beast back on his wheels today. I used about 6" of wood under the floor jack with the jack on the top rear shock mount. Got the bike leaned up enough to push it over from there. Only a 1" pad under the stand now.
Gotta get that garage built.
Post by: Soggz on April 17, 2019, 02:07:17 AM
#4 is a bit off, don't you think? :yesyes...right off of the bike!
Post by: daveson on April 17, 2019, 04:56:19 AM
Post by: Chaos on April 18, 2019, 03:15:01 PM
Post by: Soggz on April 18, 2019, 05:59:57 PM
Post by: billday on April 19, 2019, 09:11:12 AM
Not mine, but when to a hospital in Bath, and saw this one.
I love all the bikes parked in a row in that picture. Here in the USA there aren't enough people using motorcycles for everyday transport. More and more it's just toys for old guys with either too much money or too much credit (and that applies equally to BMWs and Harleys).
Post by: Laitch on April 19, 2019, 10:38:12 AM
I love all the bikes parked in a row in that picture. Here in the USA there aren't enough people using motorcycles for everyday transport.The cost of fuel in the UK might have something to do with that array of motos, too.
Post by: SDCR john on April 19, 2019, 04:42:52 PM
Really starting to like this little triple.
Btw, there is a terrific vintage bike meet next Sunday, April 28. It is the 26th Annual Gathering of the Norton's at Washington's Crossing Park, in Pa. Situated along the Delaware River, about 5 miles south of New Hope Pa. Started as a British show, but over the years, lots of older German and Italian bikes show up. Free admission.
Post by: JPaganel on April 19, 2019, 10:35:43 PM
Post by: Soggz on April 20, 2019, 03:14:11 AM
The cost of fuel in the UK might have something to do with that array of motos, too.It’s just easier to travel in cities on a bike over here.Our speed limits are higher, and we generally only have 2 lanes. The fuel is rediculously expensive over here, as opposed to over there. Why don’t you lot put your tax into your display prices? Seems stupid. Went to asa in Florida last year. Bought a nasa offer cup for $10.00, got to the till, and the price with tax was more. Really silly idea. You lot need a shake up!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 20, 2019, 09:16:38 AM
It’s just easier to travel in cities on a bike over here.Our speed limits are higher, and we generally only have 2 lanes. The fuel is rediculously expensive over here, as opposed to over there. Why don’t you lot put your tax into your display prices? Seems stupid. Went to asa in Florida last year. Bought a nasa offer cup for $10.00, got to the till, and the price with tax was more. Really silly idea. You lot need a shake up!
That is what the pols would like. That way they can tax us to death, and we can't see how bad it really is, then they can get on television and blame the shopkeepers for the outrageous prices. It's what they do here in places like New York with gasoline taxes. Big taxes that are hidden in the price of a gallon of fuel. When they raise the taxes and people complain, the pols come around and blather on about the refineries "price gouging".
Post by: Soggz on April 20, 2019, 03:34:24 PM
That is what the pols would like. That way they can tax us to death, and we can't see how bad it really is, then they can get on television and blame the shopkeepers for the outrageous prices. It's what they do here in places like New York with gasoline taxes. Big taxes that are hidden in the price of a gallon of fuel. When they raise the taxes and people complain, the pols come around and blather on about the refineries "price gouging".Im guessing with fuel over there, it’s not got far to travel to get to you. That makes it cheaper. You would love it over here, for taxes. The air is even taxed in certain places, sort of...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 24, 2019, 02:07:21 PM
Spent 15 minutes lubing them with Dow Corning silicone grease and burning off all the frayed threads on the fabric welting so they wouldn't get caught in the zipper.
Major payback for not much investment. They be runnin' smoooooth now!
Thinking I need to do the zips on my riding jacket.
Post by: Soggz on April 24, 2019, 02:13:08 PM
Out in the garage today puttering about. Not happy with how hard the zippers on Ilsa's tank bag were working.just go up and down the zip teeth with a pan I’ll a couple of times. Job done!
Spent 15 minutes lubing them with Dow Corning silicone grease and burning off all the frayed threads on the fabric welting so they wouldn't get caught in the zipper.
Major payback for not much investment. They be runnin' smoooooth now!
Thinking I need to do the zips on my riding jacket now.
Post by: Laitch on April 24, 2019, 07:02:21 PM
just go up and down the zip teeth with a pan . . .Mirro, Farberware, Revere Ware, or cast iron? :dunno
Post by: rbm on April 24, 2019, 07:06:35 PM
Thinking I need to do the zips on my riding jacket.Or your pants. Major payback there too.
Post by: Laitch on April 24, 2019, 07:08:58 PM
Or your pants. Major payback there too.Peter Pan to the rescue!
Post by: Soggz on April 25, 2019, 02:35:12 AM
Mirro, Farberware, Revere Ware, or cast iron? :dunnodunno what you mean. I mean a graphite pencil.
Post by: Laitch on April 25, 2019, 08:44:32 AM
dunno what you mean. I mean a graphite pencil.Why don't you read what you wrote in Reply #3641 and answer that question yourself?
Post by: Soggz on April 25, 2019, 05:52:24 PM
Why don't you read what you wrote in Reply #3641 and answer that question yourself?oh, I see. You know I meant a pencil.
Post by: Scott_ on April 26, 2019, 06:58:52 AM
I was thinking over the winter that I needed to lube the clutch cable pivot barrels... well, it didn't get done and yesterday when pulling into my driveway and ready to stop in front of my closed garage door ---SNAP-- Needless to say I replaced another cable and lubed the barrels on both bikes.
This one, my '97, has been a problem child with clutch cables. So much so that 2 or 3yrs ago I also replace the handle lever and barrel when I replace the cable the last time and it's still giving me grief.... I think I have put at least 4 new cables on it since I've had the bike, and it's only got 53K miles on it.
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2019, 07:27:52 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chaos on April 26, 2019, 08:23:35 AM
20 years of ownership and 165,000 K's.
Regards Martin.
Oh, you probably meant km. I know some have multiple K's but that would be ridiculous.
Post by: billday on April 26, 2019, 08:52:59 AM
Scott are you using OEM cables or aftermarket. I've been told to stick to OEM as a certain brand suffers from the nipples breaking off. Try fitting a grease nipple to the clutch arm. Every 2nd service I also lube all my cable with a PTFE based lubricant, I push the lubricant into the cable until it runs clear. You'd be surprised how much crap comes out. Few weeks ago I had to replace my throttle cable, which is the first cable I've had to replace in over 20 years of ownership and 165,000 K's.
Regards Martin.
We've gone 'round about this before, but I just gotta say . . . the "M" in "OEM" says do not lubricate our cables, because it spoils the Teflon lining or something. Just my .02.
Post by: Chaos on April 26, 2019, 09:03:36 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 26, 2019, 12:21:17 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 26, 2019, 01:47:13 PM
During the riding season I put one drop of motor oil on the barrel in the clutch lever every couple weeks. Clutch is smooth, light and I have yet to break a cable. My RT now has about 93,000 miles on it's original clutch cable.
On the other hand, cable life may be related to the fact that I carry a spare cable on my bikes at all times. I never break what I carry.
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2019, 04:34:56 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 26, 2019, 05:13:09 PM
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2019, 05:35:14 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Scott_ on April 26, 2019, 06:08:00 PM
I replaced the lever the last time thinking that the hole may have been out of round and binding the barrel or if the pivot point may have been worn out of round....
Like others, I carry a spare clutch and throttle cable, so that didn't make any difference, lol.....Actually I had 2 in my hardware bag that I carry on the bike... I had picked up a 2nd brand new one last year when a previous K owner was cleaning out un-needed parts from his garage.
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2019, 06:15:42 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Scott_ on April 26, 2019, 09:48:39 PM
Post by: rbm on April 26, 2019, 10:26:00 PM
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2019, 10:41:37 PM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Scott_ on April 27, 2019, 10:16:38 AM
Thanks guys for reminding me..
Post by: Supershooter on April 28, 2019, 09:57:49 PM
Now on to figuring out how to stop the leak.
Supershooter
Post by: SDCR john on April 28, 2019, 10:23:02 PM
My fuel tank has had a slow leak. I applied air pressure and some soap, and was able to find the hole. Finally!
Now on to figuring out how to stop the leak.
Supershooter
Post by: brichbk on April 29, 2019, 12:00:05 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 29, 2019, 08:45:08 AM
Post by: Gabriel70 on April 29, 2019, 09:59:32 AM
You have more chance of keeping the Bosch one healthy if you put an override switch on it and test it at least once a week. OEM fans have a tendency to seize from lack of use and/or lack of lubrication. I've had a aftermarket fully sealed one on mine for at least 18 years and occasionally exercise it, it's never missed a beat.
Regards Martin.
Hi martin
Do you mind if I ask you for details about the aftermarket fan you purchased.
Thanks
Gabriel
Post by: Martin on April 29, 2019, 04:20:26 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 04, 2019, 04:39:18 PM
All three of them had been seized when I first removed them. The engine has been sitting in my garage for 3 years, and looked like it had sat for at least five before that. The lacquer thinner did a nice job of loosening the pintles, but it took another day to get any spray out of them. Even then, the flow wasn't all that good.
Another day of soaking, and they looked better, but still had a bad pattern from one of them. I wanted to test them to see if they would work, so I pulled the injectors out of my bike and installed the spares. The bike started right up with them, but the idle was rough, and throttle response sucked. I decided to use the engine as my cleaning fixture. with about a gallon of fresh no-corn fuel in the tank I added half a can of Seafoam that I had laying around.
Started the engine to circulate the cleaning mix; it ran like crap with some misfiring and backfiring. After a couple minutes, I shut it down for the night. This morning I started it up, and immediately the idle was better, but the throttle response was still bad, especially around 3000rpm. Shut it down again and left it to cool down for an hour when I tried it again. More improvement, so I let it cool again. After four of five cycles, the engine is running quite nicely now considering the very rich mix of solvent in the fuel. Letting it sit overnight again, and tomorrow will add a couple gallons of no-corn to the tank and see how it runs.
I also wiped the paintwork and windshield down with this stuff called BugSlide. It's a polymer coating that is supposed to seal the paint. I used it last year, and it makes the finish smooth enough that bugs come off pretty easy, especially the windshield. Bonus is that it makes the paint look really good, which is probably why my Hardley riding friends swear by the stuff. Super easy to put on, you don't have to wash the bike first unless it's muddy, I can do the whole bike in a couple minutes.
Post by: Martin on May 04, 2019, 05:55:21 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2019, 09:21:15 AM
So far, it looks like it works. The idle is smooth and steady and the throttle response is as good as the injectors that were in the bike. Tomorrow, if the weather allows, I'm throwing some fuel in the bike and taking it out for an Italian tune up. Considering that all it cost me to get these frozen solid injectors running was half of a $12 bottle of Seafoam and a couple ounces of lacquer thinner, I'm happy.
Post by: Soggz on May 05, 2019, 11:25:43 AM
Post by: natalena on May 05, 2019, 03:24:54 PM
Post by: johnny on May 05, 2019, 04:35:15 PM
cafe racers have tiny cups...
j o
Post by: Martin on May 05, 2019, 05:15:03 PM
( Motorsport Accessories) for the EFI hose clips which they do stock. I went back on the off chance that they might stock a better quality EFI hose and bought a metre of 5/16" submersible for under $20.00 AU a metre. They only stock submersible and sell it for external and internal use. "5/16 STEALTH444 SERIES EFI HOSE 444-06-M EXCEEDS SAE30R10. A couple of days later I went back and after signing up as a member I bought two more metres for $35.35 AU. Autobarn was the only other local place that could get submersible but it was $100.00 per metre.
I went to Bunnings and bought a metre of 13mm foam insulation sleeving from their plumbing department under $4.50 AU. The EFI hose will slide into the foam sleeving but it's requires a bit of lube in the form of talcum powder. Placing a funnel in the end of the sleeving and squirting a heap of talcum powder into both ends allows you to work the hose through. Apply more talc if needed and blow out the hose when your finished. As a precaution I still fitted the Unicoil but added a second hose clip below the coil to keep it in place. I had experienced the Unicoil sliding down the hose when refitting the tank. To replace the hose required removing the lower airbox and sliding the tank back. The job took around 1 hour.
Regards Martin.
Post by: frodef on May 06, 2019, 03:50:07 AM
Post by: herseyb on May 07, 2019, 05:19:27 PM
Post by: TriSpark on May 07, 2019, 08:19:41 PM
Also replaced the leaky oil sight glass window with a new one and cured that annoying dribble.
Post by: Scott_ on May 08, 2019, 06:49:31 AM
Started troubleshooting power connections to it and realized that I was also having intermittent tail lights... not a good thing....
Ended up finding a broken wire at the ignition switch.
Instead of drilling out the security bolts I opted to remove the upper fork brace to access the switch and make repairs.
This situation also gave me the opportunity to route the wires better to help avoid the issue coming back anytime soon.
Post by: natalena on May 11, 2019, 05:53:20 PM
Installed a Fiamm 72112 "Freeway Blaster" snail horn, and it's certainly louder (133dB .. measured from what distance? But it's LOUD!) The OEM spade connectors slide right on, a simple alum. stock bracket was made and attached by a 6mm hex to the tripletree, uses the existing relay, and there's enough OEM wire to place the horn centered just under the tripletree and protected by the fairing. The stock disk horn was left in place.
Post by: Martin on May 11, 2019, 07:58:39 PM
When I first fitted it I used it on a car that's was cutting me off. As I pulled off the highway to refuel, the car followed me and as I pulled off my helmet, the car driver approached me. I was pretty much expecting a blue. However to my surprise he proceeded to apologise for cutting me off. I used it the other day after a car pulled out in front of me from a side street. At the next set of traffic lights a 4x4 pulled up along side me and said the guy was an absolute idiot. He then said how much he liked my Nautilus and said the only other thing better would be to mount a train airhorn.
Regards Martin.
Post by: rbm on May 11, 2019, 10:12:45 PM
I saw this arduino-based electronic horn and thought "This would be great for my bike. Truck airhorn!!" That ought to wakeup the neighbours.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lv8wqnk_TsA
Post by: riots100 on May 11, 2019, 11:20:36 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3537-110519231713-2131630.jpeg)
and a good cleaning (a clean motobrick is a well running motobrick)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3537-110519231717-21311049.jpeg)
Post by: BeemerDrew on May 12, 2019, 10:13:19 PM
OK, so the mirror and casing have to come off. How do I remove it. I recently bought a new, used temp gauge from Drake, so I thought I would put that in at the same time and removed the cubby boxes etc and the bit with the interior light and speaker holes from the fairing. This revealed three bolts with nylex nuts holding the mirror on. 10 mm socket no probs - except the bolt turns along with the nut! Where the hell is the other end of the bolt and how do I stop it turning? Half of the mirror casing was completely detached, so I could see the other side and there was a small hole in which I could see the slot of a screw when I shone a torch up there. It was about 3/16" diameter and needed a very slim screwdriver to get in the hole. I had an old one which I filed down until it fitted in and was able to get two of the nuts off. The third just wouldn't stop turning despite putting a lot of pressure on the screwdriver. Whilst I was doing this, I was wondering how I was going to get the mirror back onto the fairing. With the cover fixed, there was no way I could use the screwdriver - very mysterious.
So I consulted Dr Google and got the Chris Harris video of replacing the glass in the mirror. However, he had the unit in his hand and on the bench - no mention of how he got it off the bike. More Googling with the same results. How the hell does this work?
Anyway, finally got the third nut off and the mirror unit comes out. On inspecting it, I got a pair of pliers and grabbed the shaft of one of the three bolts and found that it wiggled about and when I pulled on the bolt it came out! It was clipped in as was the other two. The slot in the screw was quite large and it suddenly dawned on me that the mirror is simply clipped onto the fairing, not bolted! I could have just yanked it off. Anyway, I put the nut and bolts back in and tightened them up and mixed up some epoxy and stuck the mirror casing back together. The epoxy takes some time to set and cure, so I just left it overnight and will have a go at putting it back on tomorrow.
I can tell you I felt a right wally once I worked out how the mirrors are attached. No doubt you all read this and wondered what the hell I was doing!
Oh well, I always seem to learn the hard way.
cheers
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 12, 2019, 10:34:55 PM
It's unfortunate that a bike that is so clumsy and topheavy is so easily damaged when it's dropped. Probably the only shortcoming in an otherwise brilliant design.
Post by: Soggz on May 13, 2019, 03:07:24 AM
Works ok now, and save £169.00 on a new one.
Post by: Soggz on May 13, 2019, 03:10:40 AM
Post by: mdk_mdk on May 19, 2019, 02:54:49 PM
Post by: billday on May 19, 2019, 03:17:48 PM
Installed my cases from Marshall, just had to replace the worn-out, split hinges on the bottom of each case ($20 from Beemerboneyard)
Your last pic brought a question to mind: how many other beekeeper/k-bike owners are there?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 19, 2019, 03:22:13 PM
Photos to follow.
Post by: mdk_mdk on May 19, 2019, 03:27:28 PM
Post by: billday on May 19, 2019, 06:01:42 PM
We just started beekeeping this year with 2 hives. Lots of beekeepers here in NJ.
Yes indeed. I've been to the North Bergen club meeting once or twice. Let me know if you're ever up my way.
Post by: Martin on May 19, 2019, 06:51:16 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Soggz on May 20, 2019, 02:59:41 AM
Yes indeed. I've been to the North Bergen club meeting once or twice. Let me know if you're ever up my way.my father used to keep bees, here in England. Clover honey always seemed to taste the best.
Post by: herseyb on May 20, 2019, 10:58:54 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 20, 2019, 12:07:52 PM
Post by: SDCR john on May 20, 2019, 06:54:01 PM
and a good cleaning (a clean motobrick is a well running motobrick)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3537-110519231717-21311049.jpeg)
That, is a great looking motorcycle.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on May 23, 2019, 02:47:27 AM
https://www.bmwmoal.org/rally.php
Less than 50 miles from the house, should be fun.
Post by: Soggz on May 28, 2019, 02:00:59 AM
Fitted new (to me), left and right handlebar switchgear. All the lights, bells and whistles work!
Hurrah!
Post by: John Lang on May 31, 2019, 07:39:34 PM
Gear Position Switch freakout. -- Following instructions on this site I removed, cleaned, re-sealed and reinstalled the switch. One mistake: I figured it necessary to remove the rubber cap in order to get into the plastic cylinder containing the bits to be cleaned. After the rubber fell to pieces I realized the cylinder could have been twisted/pulled apart without bothering the rubber cap. I applied some silicon-based window sealant to replace it. Meanwhile, success. The gears display correctly again.
Post by: Skunky on June 01, 2019, 01:44:50 AM
Post by: Soggz on June 01, 2019, 03:05:39 AM
Got it MOT’d!
Went straight through with no advisories!
Smooth as silk to ride, and a big thank you to The Mighty Gryph,Laitch, Johnny and everyone else on here for pointing me in the right direction on getting the thing working properly.
Off for a ride out on it later today!
Post by: John Lang on June 01, 2019, 06:33:16 AM
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2019, 09:29:35 AM
I adjusted the throttle position switch to eliminate backfiring on overdrive.. . . Gear Position Switch freakout. -- Following instructions on this site I removed, cleaned, re-sealed and reinstalled the switch.. . .Thanks for those informative updates, John. You're sure keeping busy up there.I assembled a somewhat Rube Goldbergian three-bottle system to measure and equalize vacuum at the three ports.. . . I threw out the bottles and hoses.
Post by: John Lang on June 01, 2019, 09:43:08 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 01, 2019, 10:18:06 AM
I assembled a somewhat Rube Goldbergian three-bottle system to measure and equalize vacuum at the three ports. The bottles were siphon linked and each was attached to a port. The one connected to cylinder #3 was also linked to the fuel pressure regulator using a t-connector. A fun arrangement but difficult to use. One bottle would empty into the other two before I could adjust anything. At least it was sensitive. So I set the brass adjustment screw for cylinder #1 to one and a half turns open and used a small vacuum gauge (I had forgotten I had) to set the others to give the same reading as #1. The gauge needle bounced around at first but crimping the hose steadied it enough to get a fair reading, adjustable with the brass screw. I threw out the bottles and hoses.
You should have only thrown out the third bottle. The way the bottles work is to set the #3 cylinder(or #4) idle air screw to about 1 turn out from lightly bottomed. Then you use the bottles to balance the other idle air screws to #3(or #4.
The bottle rig is amazingly accurate, I have been using mine for five years on four different bikes. I can let the engine idle for a minute or more and not have any fluid transfer between bottles. With calibration differences on gauges and mercury sticks, I doubt you can get that close using them.
Post by: Soggz on June 02, 2019, 06:52:39 AM
Post by: John Lang on June 02, 2019, 09:47:52 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 02, 2019, 10:05:14 AM
Post by: alabrew on June 05, 2019, 04:21:38 PM
Post by: Laitch on June 05, 2019, 04:46:41 PM
Carb balancing is next . . .You're toying with us, aren't you. cool shades
Post by: alabrew on June 05, 2019, 06:24:25 PM
Yes, incorrectly stated. Replaced Throttle Body rubbers upper and lower, and then on to a throttle body balance next.
Post by: K1300S on June 05, 2019, 08:19:27 PM
You should have only thrown out the third bottle. The way the bottles work is to set the #3 cylinder(or #4) idle air screw to about 1 turn out from lightly bottomed. Then you use the bottles to balance the other idle air screws to #3(or #4.
The bottle rig is amazingly accurate, I have been using mine for five years on four different bikes. I can let the engine idle for a minute or more and not have any fluid transfer between bottles. With calibration differences on gauges and mercury sticks, I doubt you can get that close using them.
or you can invest less than $100 on a CarbTune....simple, fast, no bottles and liquids, very accurate and you can do all three (or four) TB's at once.
http://www.carbtune.com/
:-)
Post by: Soggz on June 06, 2019, 02:22:07 AM
Post by: K1300S on June 06, 2019, 07:43:49 AM
New injector cover came today.
Someone making those again?
Post by: Laitch on June 06, 2019, 09:11:48 AM
Someone making those again?They (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=FA&SbCt=BA_15_40_FA_75) can be purchased from MotorworksUK. You'll likely get a free keychain with the order to impress your friends. :yippee:
Post by: Chaos on June 06, 2019, 09:53:11 AM
Post by: Chaos on June 06, 2019, 09:59:20 AM
Post by: Soggz on June 06, 2019, 04:41:31 PM
Someone making those again?Im guessing, yes. Speed 7 used to make them. This one is from Motoworks. £24.09.
Post by: Soggz on June 07, 2019, 05:52:06 PM
Not sure about that side case air scoop.... might make one and see for myself...
Post by: K1300S on June 07, 2019, 06:10:05 PM
buy it a K1300S as a stablemate. nothing quite like the sound of 175hp at 11,000 rpm!
:-)
Post by: Soggz on June 07, 2019, 07:32:25 PM
best way to add lots of HP to your K is to................It has a CX500 eurosport cafe racer, as a stablemate. Let’s it know what a carbed bike sounds like!
buy it a K1300S as a stablemate. nothing quite like the sound of 175hp at 11,000 rpm!
:-)
Post by: Chaos on June 08, 2019, 12:11:28 AM
best way to add lots of HP to your K is to................
Buy a Ural. 40hp and a 800lb rig makes the K75 seem like a rocketship
Post by: Soggz on June 09, 2019, 11:54:37 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 09, 2019, 12:37:33 PM
I think it's gonna need another one next Sunday.
Post by: Soggz on June 09, 2019, 01:00:33 PM
Did an Italian tune up to try and loosen up the rings on my "new" K100RS this morning. 110 miles on back roads 50-75mph all in 3rd and 4th gear.I had that problem! I took the plugs out and put in about a tablespoonful of Redex petrol treatment in each hole. Left it overnight, plugs back in next day, then took it for a good, high rev ride! It’s been a great bike ever since!
I think it's gonna need another one next Sunday.
Post by: MCRyder on June 13, 2019, 09:43:46 PM
Post by: Soggz on June 15, 2019, 01:46:37 AM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 04, 2019, 10:48:44 PM
I need to change a bunch of fluids and also lube some splines I guess.
Anyway I finally had it with the ABS light blinking so I bought one after going through the diagnostic tests described and then today I installed a replacement ABS computer and did the reset and it WORKS!! No more blinking red light.
Now about that spline lube. . . .
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2019, 02:11:17 AM
I haven't done ANYTHING except change the oil, batteries, and tires in YEARS. My clutch is starting to slip under hard acceleration but usually only after it's warmed up which is a bit strange . . ..That isn't strange.
A clutch that needs adjustment will slip when it's warmed up or goosed. If adjustment at that point is neglected, the clutch disc is likely to glaze and need replacement to the tune of $150 or so. The clutch needs correct, periodic review and adjustment to spec to compensate for wear. When is the last time you did that? The procedure can be found in the 2V service manual's Maintenance section in the Repair Guidance section here.
Post by: Scott_ on July 05, 2019, 07:34:41 AM
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2019, 07:36:49 AM
During the last two weeks, I removed the C-bar then installed a chromed Flanders sidecar bar (650-02181) (https://www.denniskirk.com/flanders/22mm-bmw-clubman-sidecar-low-chrome-handlebar-650-02181.p594182.prd/594182.sku) purchased from denniskirk.com. It has less rise than an S-style bar.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719064827.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719064948.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719065102.jpeg)
I replaced the front brake hose with an S-style OEM (34322312900) from MaxBMW. Brake fluid was renewed.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719065309.jpeg)
The Motometer's faces on both the speedo and tacho faceplates had distorted and blistered, blocking operation of the needles. I tried flattening the faces but that was unsatisfactory so I installed replacements I purchased from TheMightyGryphon and mw074 here. I applied liquid silicone to the case's gasket and mating surfaces before reassembly.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719065345.jpeg)
I installed ProGrip 699 grips. They come with the word SUPERBIKE embossed into their flanges to help onlookers identify what they're viewing. :giggles
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719065216.jpeg)
I learned that the rear post of a K75's battery cover fits into a flexible bushing mounted in the tail cowl. I might include a couple of those—if still available—with my next MaxBMW order.
I replaced the throttle cable—including its adjuster—with one suitable for an S-model (32731457377) from MaxBMW. I replaced the throttle tube—its gear teeth were worn—with one purchased from mw074, and lubed the throttle gear. I used compressed air to clear the fuel tank vent port then replaced its hose. I installed a used, tweaked OEM bench seat purchased from TMG. I cleaned gravel out of the air box and off the top of the engine block. I shook debris out of the air filter, lightly blew debris from the radiator with compressed air, rinsed it then went for a 200 mile ride. I'm still riding on Metzeler Sportec Klassics and they still work well on gravel and wet or dry pavement after 3000 miles.
This moto leads a hard and dusty life but it responds pretty well to regular intervals of fluid replacement, lubrication and mechanical adjustment—no complaints here.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 08:55:01 AM
Just like women, these old girls really respond well to a little attention every now and then. Approach maintenance as foreplay and your ride will never let you down.
Post by: K1300S on July 05, 2019, 10:50:15 AM
Post by: Soggz on July 05, 2019, 11:15:12 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 02:59:16 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 05, 2019, 03:03:28 PM
Dirt can be an important part of a camo scheme...True. It's also an effective paint protectant and non-toxic in its application.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 05, 2019, 03:15:21 PM
Post by: Soggz on July 06, 2019, 02:15:53 AM
In fact, only last night, I and a friend rode to a biker pub in Dorset, he on his 2 year old MT 700, and me on my 32 year old K, and my bike had the most admirers, and indeed, photos taken of it by people stating “Blimey, what a great looking machine! I havnt seen one of those for decades!”.
A little care goes a long way. What’s more, I find it satisfying that my hard work is appreciated by complete strangers.
Know what I mean, boys?
Post by: Soggz on July 06, 2019, 08:36:08 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 06, 2019, 09:54:38 AM
I guess the ‘ can’t be arsed,don’t care about my machine, which has survived this long’ look, must be popular in some places.I could understand it if it was new, but most people over here tend to be in awe of such an older machine, than flocks of new, throwaway machines of today!
In fact, only last night, I and a friend rode to a biker pub in Dorset, he on his 2 year old MT 700, and me on my 32 year old K, and my bike had the most admirers, and indeed, photos taken of it by people stating “Blimey, what a great looking machine! I havnt seen one of those for decades!”.
A little care goes a long way. What’s more, I find it satisfying that my hard work is appreciated by complete strangers.
Know what I mean, boys?
Actually, yes. But I'm a flatlander even if I do live amongst bovine neighbors. Yesterday I spent a good chunk of the day buffing out the paint on my Bricks with Perfect-it. Then I did a throttle body balance on Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS. That asphalt slut loves it when I fuss over her before a trip.
Post by: mdk_mdk on July 06, 2019, 01:43:59 PM
I purchased Underwear & Pajama Elastic from Michael's that was the same width as the old deteriorated elastic, it's white instead of black but otherwise the same. I then used a thread/stitch cutter to open up the black stitching in the leather and removed the old elastic. I cut strips of the new elastic and mocked up the length to check for tightness, pinning the new elastic in with safety pins as I checked the fit on the bike. After the fit was correct I then Gorilla glued and hand sewed the new elastic in place using the old holes in the leather and the largest needle I could find in Grandma Anna's sewing kit.
Now I have a working vintage BMW tank bag ready to go riding with a paper map under the clear plastic!
Mark in NJ
Post by: Soggz on July 06, 2019, 02:46:38 PM
Actually, yes. But I'm a flatlander even if I do live amongst bovine neighbors. Yesterday I spent a good chunk of the day buffing out the paint on my Bricks with Perfect-it. Then I did a throttle body balance on Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS. That asphalt slut loves it when I fuss over her before a trip.whats a ‘flatlander’?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 06, 2019, 09:29:14 PM
Post by: Soggz on July 07, 2019, 01:44:19 AM
A flatlander is someone who doesn't live in the hills. They can usually be identified as having both legs the same length, whereas mountain folk have one leg shorter than the other to facilitate walking on the hillsides.Ah. Not a mountain goat.
Makes it easier to stop at junctions, then. Lol!
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 08, 2019, 11:57:08 PM
A flatlander is someone who doesn't live in the hills. They can usually be identified as having both legs the same length, whereas mountain folk have one leg shorter than the other to facilitate walking on the hillsides.They can also be identified as the SLOW MF in front of me on the poker run at the rally in north Georgia. The one who refuses to pull over and let me pass and enjoy the ride.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 09, 2019, 12:02:47 AM
Now I gotta make room in the carport to put them on and see if the local Jap dealer has some of that Honda lube for the splines.
At least I don't have to deal with rim locks or tubes on this bike.
Post by: Soggz on July 09, 2019, 02:27:59 AM
I took delivery of two new tires. The old ones look decent, but they're 11 years old.love to see your Brit bikes!
Now I gotta make room in the carport to put them on and see if the local Jap dealer has some of that Honda lube for the splines.
At least I don't have to deal with rim locks or tubes on this bike.
Post by: alabrew on July 09, 2019, 04:55:45 PM
Doing a little search of fuel tank sealants and ran across Marine -Tex. Anyone used it to seal a tank?
Post by: SDCR john on July 09, 2019, 08:47:28 PM
If the tank, I recently used a JB Weld product, called Steel Stick. It is malleable, and take about 48-72 hours to fully cure.
It sealed a seam leak on a SR500 gas tank last summer, and it is holding fine today.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 09, 2019, 09:39:25 PM
I'm reading the post on changing brake pads. It specifies a minimum pad thickness of 1.5mm. Mine are thicker than that, but I might renew them anyway. Anybody know how thick new pads are?
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 09, 2019, 10:53:53 PM
love to see your Brit bikes!(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719222325.jpeg)
Wotan the Trident. Same bore and stroke as our K bikes. Very fast in its day, the wail at full song is addictive.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719223248.jpeg)
Mr. Jim the Bonneville.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719223842.jpeg)
Zelda the BSA Lightning
Post by: Soggz on July 10, 2019, 03:14:18 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719222325.jpeg)love the Triumph mate. What year is it? Always hankered after a ‘68, myself.
Wotan the Trident. Same bore and stroke as our K bikes. Very fast in its day, the wail at full song is addictive.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719223248.jpeg)
Mr. Jim the Bonneville.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3702-090719223842.jpeg)
Zelda the BSA Lightning
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 10, 2019, 06:33:17 PM
The old Roadtek came off without a hitch, but I can't for the life of me get the new one on. I don't know if it's the wheel or the tire, but the beads simply refuse to stay centered in the drop center of the rim.
I've been riding for over 45 years and always changed my own tires. This will be the first time I ever had to take a wheel to a shop.
At least I didn't puncture a tube. LOL
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2019, 07:58:56 PM
I don't know if it's the wheel or the tire, but the beads simply refuse to stay centered in the drop center of the rim.It isn't the wheel. I used large zip-ties to compress a tire that wouldn't drop into the rim channel. That allowed it to be pulled into the channel when prying the bead over the rim.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 10, 2019, 11:28:00 PM
I'll try that, but if the tire won't go on after about 20 minutes I'm taking it to a pro.
I think my problem is the aspect ratio. All my other bikes use 90% tires, much easier to squeeze.
Post by: Skunky on July 12, 2019, 08:27:44 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 13, 2019, 12:27:36 AM
I put the front wheel back on today. Actually not too difficult with the brake pads spread as far as possible.
Post by: Soggz on July 13, 2019, 01:33:35 AM
I found a guy a few miles outside of town. Mounted and balanced for $20. I'm not even gonna try to mount the rear tire.Hi. A guy at Weymouth Motors in Frome, balances wheels, if you get stuck.
I put the front wheel back on today. Actually not too difficult with the brake pads spread as far as possible.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 15, 2019, 07:41:02 PM
As I was going down the road one day, suddenly (and tragically) my latch flew off my Tragkorb.
It wanted to be free!
So I replaced it with this.
But as I am a bit obsessive, I've found and ordered a proper replacement.
Bit by bit, my Rad will resume its former glory.
Post by: herseyb on July 15, 2019, 08:32:10 PM
Seals on the plunger look good, but the boot 32722310756 is fucky along the bigger edge. Any point in reassembling before the replacement arrives, or will it continue to leak?
Post by: Chaos on July 15, 2019, 09:19:00 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-150719193031.jpeg)
As I was going down the road one day, suddenly (and tragically) my latch flew off my Tragkorb.
It wanted to be free!
So I replaced it with this.
But as I am a bit obsessive, I've found and ordered a proper replacement.
Bit by bit, my Rad will resume its former glory.
I've got a couple of those on my tragkorbs and tail tragkorb. Grown quite fond of them over the years. It's almost embarrassing how many Home Depot parts I have on my K, but they seem to last longer than pieces for der faterland.
Post by: Soggz on July 17, 2019, 06:34:06 PM
I've got a couple of those on my tragkorbs and tail tragkorb. Grown quite fond of them over the years. It's almost embarrassing how many Home Depot parts I have on my K, but they seem to last longer than pieces for der faterland.Thats because BMW made good engines and bad everything that’s bolted to it!
I can see why they weren’t popular compared to bikes of their time!
Post by: Martin on July 17, 2019, 06:55:38 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Soggz on July 18, 2019, 02:12:38 AM
Mine has just celebrated it's 26th birthday. And it is the most reliable bike I've ever owned, to the point of being boring. I just maintain it as per specification. Most problems with the Brick can be put down to neglect they need to be used, poor maintenance and been left out in the weather.Same as any other bike, with the being left outside in bad weather,really. But yes, maintainable is the key.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chri5 on July 18, 2019, 07:50:33 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 19, 2019, 06:18:21 AM
With my brick coming up to its 34th birthday i desided to give the old girl a spit and polish. I just need to remember it wil be worth it. im 5 days graft in and i reckon another 10 to go
Good effort!
Post by: Soggz on July 19, 2019, 11:46:22 AM
Yeah, so I bought my bike some of these, see how it comes together with the new, rear YSS shock.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 20, 2019, 10:38:12 PM
That was certainly fun, loosening 80 lb-ft pivots without knocking the bike off the center stand. But, I got the drive apart. Those splines look good, and they now have way too much grease on them. Even more fun lining up the bearing to get the pivot back in.
All done, fresh oil in the final drive, new Metzelers on both wheels.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 21, 2019, 11:42:18 AM
I started with some heavy reading:
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-210719101617-23261280.jpeg)
I set out to do four things yesterday: Coolant flush / replace (has not been done in some years, I saw some brown scuzzy crud floating in the coolant reservoir, and lately the overtemp light is coming on, interestingly in tandem with the fan).
Also did:
Full removal and reinstallation of fairing on order to get to the thermostat which is a long process for me.
Brake fluid renew
Spark plug change
Oil & Filter change
Transmission fluid change
I guess that's five things.
First, re: the coolant.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-210719102515-23322185.jpeg)
Then refilling with 50% Prestone Heavy Duty / Long Life OAT coolant and 50% dionized water.
It took about a gallon (3.7 liters) including the overflow reservoir. Which is weird because the book says it should only take 2.9 liters. Maybe there is a bigger radiator or maybe I mis-measured)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-210719102522-23331481.jpeg)
After it was all nicely done, the bike, when warmed up, still gives me the overtemp warning light in tandem with the fan turning on. The temperature gauge, however, never goes much above the middle. Certainly never into the red.
So now I'll be starting a new thread: Temperature warning light 1989 K75 RT. See you there!
I'll post brake fluid replacement procedure as my next one on this as I found a very easy way to do it.
Post by: johnny on July 21, 2019, 12:01:21 PM
some bricks gotts 2 core radiators and some gotts 3 core radiators...
j o
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 21, 2019, 12:13:21 PM
I have an oil changer that is useful for my boat in that it has a long plastic suction tube that goes into the bottom of the oilpan. It uses a shop vac to make the vacuum.
Awesomely, the plastic tube is the exact inside diameter as the brake bleeders on my bike!
1 Open your rear fluid reservoir. Suck out old brake fluid.
2: Refill with your favourite DOT 4 fluid
3: remove the dust cap from the right ABS controller, and put the vacuum hose on it. Turn on shop vac
4: crack open the bleeder, and watch the old scuzzy fluid escape, to be replaced by the new stuff you just poured into the reservior. Add more fluid as necessary - don't want to drain it dry or you'll have air bubbles in your line and possibly also in your ABS pump.
5: very gently pump the rear brake pedal, remembering that it should not ever be fully depressed to avoid ruining your master cylinder.
6: close the bleeder when you've flushed out the old fluid with new stuff. It will be more clear in the hose, just a few ounces is all it takes.
7: do the same thing on the bleeder at the caliper.
8: Repeat for the front brakes, but this has a much longer run so will take more.
This is what it looks like, draining at the front ABS pump:
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-210719115412-23352405.jpeg)
9: Ride happily! Check brake function at low speed first. Brake feel is no different for me than before. ABS works both front and rear on my bike as I determined!!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 21, 2019, 01:14:57 PM
Also, how do the spaces between the fins of the radiator look? I would imagine that in your part of the world there could be a pretty heavy load of small flying life forms blocking the airflow. I had to remove and soak my radiator overnight in vinegar to remove the bugs that were making my bike overheat.
I wouldn't worry about temperature gauge readings vs. fan operation. I have noticed that the gauges often read "low", probably because of poor electrical conductivity between the sensor and the engine as well as in the electrical connections in the harness that are getting on to 30+ years old.
Post by: Martin on July 21, 2019, 05:25:51 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chaos on July 21, 2019, 07:43:37 PM
Post by: Martin on July 21, 2019, 08:29:48 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 21, 2019, 09:15:16 PM
Chaos in Oz it's a case of either or, both are acceptable. I assume usage of the word globe isn't used in the US when referring to light emmitters. What about Canada?
Regards Martin.
Glühbirne
Wait, that is Deutsch for "Incandescent Pear"
In Canada we calls it "that thing that lights up, eh?" or in the French part, "Ampoule", I think
Post by: bocutter Ed on July 21, 2019, 09:29:28 PM
What about Canada?Blubs
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 21, 2019, 09:45:21 PM
Macht nicht, they're all LAMPS.
Post by: Laitch on July 22, 2019, 01:09:25 AM
I assume usage of the word globe isn't used in the US when referring to light emmitters.It's regional. Around here they're called orbicular illuminators (orbills).
Post by: Martin on July 22, 2019, 01:35:33 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 22, 2019, 02:05:18 AM
Post by: Martin on July 22, 2019, 04:15:54 AM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 22, 2019, 01:35:00 PM
Post by: Martin on July 22, 2019, 04:28:31 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on July 22, 2019, 07:48:10 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 22, 2019, 09:44:03 PM
This was the result of a successful ebay bid and entirely due to spending too much time reading this forum.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-220719214120-23391256.jpeg)
Post by: Soggz on July 23, 2019, 03:00:39 AM
Post by: Chaos on July 23, 2019, 10:07:35 AM
Added the Iconic 22 liter case!!
:clap: :clap: :clap: Your bike is special now!
Post by: SDCR john on July 23, 2019, 12:23:27 PM
What makes these 22 Liter Cases so Iconic?
Added the Iconic 22 liter case!! (parked at the border between Ontario and Minnesota - Rydens (Pigeon River).
This was the result of a successful ebay bid and entirely due to spending too much time reading this forum.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-220719214120-23391256.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on July 23, 2019, 12:45:09 PM
Did it include the required Iconic rack? What makes these 22 Liter Cases so Iconic?It would need to be mounted on the iconic rack or it wouldn't be iconic. There are no degrees of iconicness; something either is or it isn't.
The 22liter is iconic because when you see a case like that snugly integrated into the sloping line of a rear cowl—instead of mounted on a flat, horizontal surface and seeming like a flying barbecue—you know you're looking at a classic K moto and nothing else.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 23, 2019, 01:25:34 PM
The 22liter is iconic because when you see a case like that snugly integrated into the sloping line of a rear cowl—instead of mounted on a flat, horizontal surface and seeming like a flying barbecue—you know you're looking at a classic K moto and nothing else.
So eloquently stated.
My RT came with a three bedroom Givi case that looked like I was towing some sort of dirigible. At my first opportunity I sold it and installed the Iconic 22 liter case.
Post by: natalena on July 23, 2019, 01:49:46 PM
I prefer Victoria Bitter.What an awesome leading lady name for 007.
Raining here, so just started the brick to purr for a bit, and then back to snooze.
Post by: Soggz on July 23, 2019, 04:56:04 PM
Post by: Martin on July 23, 2019, 06:11:25 PM
Regards a happy and fulfilled Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on July 23, 2019, 07:28:32 PM
I now use a strap to keep in closed and in one iconic piece....
Post by: Chaos on July 23, 2019, 08:53:34 PM
My 22 lt is iconic for its habit of flying open when hitting highway speeds...
Yeah, that latch must have been designed by a brilliant engineer's not-so-bright son-in-law. I modded mine to hinge in the front and latch with hardware from Home Depot. Function over Iconicness.
Post by: Martin on July 23, 2019, 09:29:43 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on July 23, 2019, 09:42:59 PM
What I did with my motobrick today was take it for a 500 km round trip to the lovely town of Ignace. Under 4 hours driving time on a nice smooth asphalt 20-lane. I won't say how much under!
A stop along the way:
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6539-230719214008-2340878.jpeg)
Note the sign in the background: "From here all streams flow north into the Arctic Ocean".
BTW my over temp light did not light up at all! (more on that, on the other thread :) )
Post by: Martin on July 24, 2019, 05:13:04 AM
I removed the back of the cluster and removed the old lights. I then proceeded to scrape all the pin on the connectors with a small scalpel and clean with DeoxIT. This was the real reason for pulling the instrument cluster as the GPI was occasionally having a mental blank. With the new lights in I connected the plugs with the back still off and rotated the lights until I had the correct polarity. I then marked the polarity on the circuit board. The old globes/bulbs that I removed had little green removable condoms on them even though the instrument lighting appeared white. All up it took about 4 hours hopefully I have fixed the funky GPI.
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on July 24, 2019, 09:03:40 AM
What an awesome leading lady name for 007.
There is a lawyer here in Victoria in deep trouble at the moment, who had a leg on each side of the fence, her name, Gobbo. I hear they're making a movie about the saga. It's a tall order, but that has the ingredients for a better movie than Chopper.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on July 25, 2019, 12:09:40 AM
Today I took the K out for a shakedown cruise with the new tires. I'm happy. It shifts better with the rear splines and drive lubed. The new Metzelers work very well, though I didn't really test my skills in the corners.
The last stretch of road is replete with tar snakes. Don't know what y'all are on about, I barely notice them.
Then I parked the K and rode the Trident to the pub.
Post by: Soggz on July 25, 2019, 01:47:15 AM
FWIW: I guess I understand baggage porn, but my soft saddle and tail bags cost less than half of your coveted tail box and they serve the purpose.Hi. What do you think of the K compared with a decent British bike?
Today I took the K out for a shakedown cruise with the new tires. I'm happy. It shifts better with the rear splines and drive lubed. The new Metzelers work very well, though I didn't really test my skills in the corners.
The last stretch of road is replete with tar snakes. Don't know what y'all are on about, I barely notice them.
Then I parked the K and rode the Trident to the pub.
Post by: Skunky on July 25, 2019, 01:50:09 PM
I also adjusted the BEP switches for the fuel light to come on at 4liters. I have a fuel gauge on the Chinese Speedo so it 's not important but I did put a fuel light into the build.
Put her back together for the MOT (NO REAR LIGHT!!!!) 💩💩💩
Checked through the. Circuitry and no voltage coming from the bulb monitor. Which I don't really need as I have Led's.
Bulb monitor bypass comp!eted. All ok so took her for the test.
Which it failed because the tester thought the throttle was sticking when in fact it was just the adjuster screw under the throttle. PASSED 😁
Post by: billday on July 25, 2019, 02:53:37 PM
Just not getting hot enough!
From what I read they are fixing that for you. Enjoy the hottest weather ever recorded in Europe!
Post by: Soggz on July 28, 2019, 05:26:27 PM
Post by: Soggz on July 28, 2019, 05:42:19 PM
Post by: daveson on July 29, 2019, 02:57:13 AM
Post by: Soggz on July 29, 2019, 09:33:59 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on August 05, 2019, 11:00:25 PM
We were blessed with mostly dry weather and those lovely mountain roads.
Had lunch at a BBQ place with the slogan, "You can smell our butts for miles."
Hi. What do you think of the K compared with a decent British bike?Georgia hwy 180 is a hell of a lot more fun on a Triumph! The K100 is nice enough on a road where I can stay in fourth gear all day, but it shifts like a bike with a loose chain, and for some reason it handles right corners with more confidence than left.
Post by: Soggz on August 06, 2019, 02:09:40 AM
On the weekend I rode the K down to Two Wheels of Suches in north Georgia to camp with a group of friends. I met most of them through British bike meets, but we had a full compliment of different bikes. My K100, an R75/6, a custom /2 with a /5 engine and sidecar, one old Triumph, two new Triumphs, and a Honda.eah, k bikes are boring, mate.
We were blessed with mostly dry weather and those lovely mountain roads.
Had lunch at a BBQ place with the slogan, "You can smell our butts for miles."
Georgia hwy 180 is a hell of a lot more fun on a Triumph! The K100 is nice enough on a road where I can stay in fourth gear all day, but it shifts like a bike with a loose chain, and for some reason it handles right corners with more confidence than left.
Post by: Skunky on August 10, 2019, 05:05:15 AM
Post by: Scott_ on August 10, 2019, 12:34:02 PM
Post by: John Lang on August 10, 2019, 01:01:52 PM
Post by: Soggz on August 11, 2019, 03:10:31 AM
Post by: Scott_ on August 11, 2019, 06:35:13 AM
Rode it!
That should be a given.... lol
Post by: Skunky on August 11, 2019, 11:58:13 AM
Finally got around to replacing the brake lines on the '97.....after I procrastinated to the point of a burst line... uggh. I guess I got all the life out of them after 22yrs.
Still have the originals lines as far as I can see. 1990 bike.
Post by: Soggz on August 11, 2019, 06:09:42 PM
That should be a given.... lolyou ain’t seen the weather, here!
Post by: Skunky on August 12, 2019, 05:03:51 AM
you ain’t seen the weather, here!Good today though Soggs :motopopo
Post by: Soggz on August 12, 2019, 09:35:29 AM
Good today though Soggs :motopopoYeah,man!
Post by: Skunky on August 16, 2019, 01:41:03 PM
Pulled the Exhaust . Have a bit of fuel leaking on pot 4 and some of the paint on the rear pipe was blistering. When I did the build I shortened the can and refitted the end using a screw system. The power of the gasses tends to loosen said screws so I had the end welded proprley and I will repaint with VHT paint and then see how it looks. Pictures when I can be arsed.
Photos of a queered out pipe.
Post by: Nine80seven on August 25, 2019, 12:35:53 AM
Post by: ScooterNSticks on August 27, 2019, 06:39:19 PM
So I ordered blanks from Bob's BMW in Maryland. Today the locksmith duplicated the ignition key and they worked fine. Just two plain steel keys. The blanks were $51 including shipping and cutting was $14. A lot cheaper than my Vespa key since it has a chip in it but still....
Post by: Gabriel70 on August 27, 2019, 08:41:53 PM
There is a lawyer here in Victoria in deep trouble at the moment, who had a leg on each side of the fence, her name, Gobbo. I hear they're making a movie about the saga. It's a tall order, but that has the ingredients for a better movie than Chopper.
Just another example of police incompetence in Victoria. Don’t know of any other informants who received compensation exceeding one million dollars. Also was involved in a relationship with one of the police officers.
Police should be held accountable for their conduct and they wonder why the public don’t respect them.....
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 05:50:04 AM
Just another example of police incompetence in Victoria. . .Get off your soapbox. This section is for posting what you and your Brick did to each other recently.
Post by: ScooterNSticks on August 28, 2019, 07:51:00 AM
Get off your soapbox. This section is for posting what you and your Brick did recently.
I thought it was about what was done to the brick. Reading between the lines I assumed the frustration just caused a frustrated, emotional outbreak involving a ball peen hammer and a gas tank. I've heard a pebbly finish on a K bike fuel tank is all the rage now.
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 07:58:30 AM
Reading between the lines I assumed the frustration just caused a frustrated, emotional outbreak involving a ball peen hammer and a gas tank.:-)
Post by: Nine80seven on August 28, 2019, 09:29:40 PM
Post by: TommyT on September 08, 2019, 09:04:50 PM
Post by: Supershooter on September 08, 2019, 10:21:07 PM
I was considering riding to a meeting 4 hours from home but I'm reconsidering now.
Supershooter
Post by: johnny on September 09, 2019, 06:15:22 AM
solar battery tender...
we are going to the clay county fair on saturday... just saying...
j o
Post by: Supershooter on September 09, 2019, 10:12:59 PM
I had to work the booth at Clay County Fair, today lots of rIn this morning. No YeeHaw today, gonna bad shooting varmits in SD on Saturday.
Have a safe ride!
Supershooter
Post by: beemrdon on September 12, 2019, 07:47:28 PM
Post by: Soggz on September 13, 2019, 02:02:54 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 13, 2019, 01:14:02 PM
Post by: ScooterNSticks on September 13, 2019, 08:20:15 PM
Post by: volador on September 13, 2019, 09:24:07 PM
So I ordered blanks from Bob's BMW in Maryland. Today the locksmith duplicated the ignition key and they worked fine. Just two plain steel keys. The blanks were $51 including shipping and cutting was $14. A lot cheaper than my Vespa key since it has a chip in it but still....
I ran my hand over the gas tank today while apologizing for not riding my brick.This thread is getting literal. Is that a moto metafor?
K Bike Keys (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2572.0.html)
How to "Rekey" K-Bike Locks (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,494.0.html)
Capital Cycle Neinman GKS Keys 51251233554 (https://www.capitalcycle.com/Key-Blank--Straight-Metal-_p_4625.html)
K-Bike Folding Keys 51251453659 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW-K100-R80-K75-Motorrad-R-K-Bike-Folding-Blank-Key-51251453659/263585213173?epid=1823455024&hash=item3d5ee72af5:g:O3gAAOSw94NcqdY5)
eBay Capital Cycle (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Flat-Steel-Key-Blank-R65-R80-R100-R60-K1-K100-K1100-F650-K75-R1150/291821153390?hash=item43f1e56c6e:g:0XMAAOSwdzVXi7mc:sc:USPSFirstClass!04073!US!-1)
eBay Keys 4x (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R65-R60-R100RT-R80-R90-R75-K1100LT-K1100RS-airhead-4-key-blanks/232321953181?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item361777ad9d:g:y1EAAOSwBahVYkvQ)
eBay Keys 2x (https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Key-R65-R60-R100-R80-R90-R75-S-RS-RT-K1100-airhead-1970-1995-blanks-X-2/173993002395?hash=item2882ca859b:g:ZHkAAOSwEg1a9ZkH)
Post by: natalena on September 14, 2019, 04:13:12 PM
Best part is, drivers notice you better with the bike than without, as 3 cars paced alongside so passengers could video and take pics on the motorway.
Post by: Laitch on September 14, 2019, 04:22:29 PM
Best part is, drivers notice you better with the bike than without, as 3 cars paced alongside so passengers could video and take pics on the motorway.After which, they ran into the cars in front of them. :-)
Post by: lysy40 on September 14, 2019, 10:15:36 PM
3x beru veso 116
3x NGK XD05
silicon wire
cost 35$
Post by: volador on September 15, 2019, 02:51:25 AM
Went for a yeehaw ride on 2 wheels, and a workout ride on 2-wheels. The improved rack is much more solid (Reynolds and steel tray) than the aluminum Ver.1, and hauling the bike is not noticeable unless you grab a fistful of brake too aggressively.
Best part is, drivers notice you better with the bike than without, as 3 cars paced alongside so passengers could video and take pics on the motorway.
As a bike and Brick enthusiast, great design and use of the iconic Reynolds Rack #240 ver2.0.
Gawd aweful shame if that pretty Eddy Merckx become a projectile into oncoming motorist traffic or the like.
Check your insurance that could be a legal chitstorm waiting to happen.
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 15, 2019, 03:27:23 AM
Post by: natalena on September 15, 2019, 03:41:27 AM
As a bike and Brick enthusiast, great design and use of the iconic Reynolds Rack #240 ver2.0.
Gawd aweful shame if that pretty Eddy Merckx become a projectile into oncoming motorist traffic or the like.
Check your insurance that could be a legal chitstorm waiting to happen.
Thanks, criteria revolved around "legal, stable, light weight, ease of use."
Original 7-11 Corsa with first year Campy SR Ergo :) Roadraced 2 season's, and forgotten for 25+years in storage. It's heavy, but an unstoppable Beast on climbs and cornering.
My background is in legal, so making sure it's not citation worthy, or going to lose my house was a concern. Local Sheriff's keep a lookout while training around here, and think it's super cool. The rack also double's for carrying deer from the woods ... just to be "yooneek."
Post by: Soggz on September 15, 2019, 02:22:27 PM
Post by: Soggz on September 15, 2019, 04:27:37 PM
Post by: volador on September 15, 2019, 11:39:01 PM
Good idea to replace the lever, and bolt, too.
Why?
Curing Sloppy Clutch & Brake Levers (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3053.0)
Post by: Soggz on September 16, 2019, 02:15:46 AM
Why?Why?
Curing Sloppy Clutch & Brake Levers (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3053.0)
Well, in the case of my lever, the hardened steel nipple/barrel, has worn out the softer aluminium lever hole where it sits. I.e, it’s not round anymore, so now it’s a ‘sloppy’ fit. I’m sure not everyone’s is like this, but it is 30+ year old aluminium under a lot of friction. Yours may be in a better state, but an older one like mine, will eat clutch cables over time. I’ll take some pics of new V old when I get it, for comparison.
Post by: volador on September 16, 2019, 03:26:21 AM
Why?
... nipples... under a lot of friction. Yours may be in a better state, but an older ones like mine...
Need to lube those nipples
Post by: Soggz on September 16, 2019, 05:46:17 AM
Need to lube those nipplesAgreed, but aluminium STILL wears against hardened steel. The grease just turns it into a mild cutting paste.
Post by: Laitch on September 16, 2019, 07:17:44 AM
Agreed, but aluminium STILL wears against hardened steel.Which part is the hardened steel?
Post by: Soggz on September 16, 2019, 09:12:54 AM
Which part is the hardened steel?The barrel, apparently.
Post by: billday on September 16, 2019, 08:51:05 PM
Why?
Well, in the case of my lever, the hardened steel nipple/barrel, has worn out the softer aluminium lever hole where it sits. I.e, it’s not round anymore, so now it’s a ‘sloppy’ fit. I’m sure not everyone’s is like this, but it is 30+ year old aluminium under a lot of friction. Yours may be in a better state, but an older one like mine, will eat clutch cables over time. I’ll take some pics of new V old when I get it, for comparison.
Once a year, grease the barrel that holds the nipple in the clutch lever so that it rotates freely when you pull in the lever. It's an imperfect design but keeping the rotating part lubricated can prevent it causing you trouble.
Post by: Soggz on September 17, 2019, 02:38:24 AM
Once a year, grease the barrel that holds the nipple in the clutch lever so that it rotates freely when you pull in the lever. It's an imperfect design but keeping the rotating part lubricated can prevent it causing you trouble.Hi. I realise this, and I will grease it for as long as I keep the bike, but I don’t think that the 12 previous owners before me bothered to!
Post by: Martin on September 17, 2019, 03:56:15 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 17, 2019, 07:31:46 AM
Installed OEM Low Seat Kit from Eville Rich. Great outcome. Dawn patrol tomorrow with lower c/g and new radial Battlax T30s. Question to those w low seat: latch actuator rod seems 1/2 inch too short. Is there a parts diagram out there showing a fitting for the threaded end?
Here is the parts fiche from Max BMW
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3823-170919073010-24561488.png)
I have a low seat on my bike and the actuator rod is a little short on mine as well. It does fit and does work but only just...
Post by: Skunky on September 17, 2019, 08:32:21 PM
I Made a modification to the side stand today. The purpose of the modification is to ........
1 - Reduce the angle and weight of the bike on the stand.
2 - To allow the bike to be lowered onto the stand while your still sitting on it
My K had a spring loaded side stand which came up, with force when the weight of the bike was lifted off. It also seemed to lean a long way over putting a lot of weight on the stand and making it unusable on a camber. It was virtually impossible to put the bike on the side stand when sitting on it because to hold the stand forward you had to take your weight bearing foot off the floor. Therefore you had get off the bike before you put it on the stand, balancing the bike and performing the Rudolph Nureyev arabesque required to get off is not the easiest or most graceful dismount.
Anyway. Shortening the side stand bolt allows the stand to stay down once put there and making a foot extension hardwood and a thick rubber pad reduced the angle to lean.
Job Done. :twothumbsupp
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Post by: beemrdon on September 17, 2019, 09:44:08 PM
I drilled a small hole through a hocky puck, then ran a length of para cord, aka string, through it and secured it with a square knot. I made a loop at the other end. Done.
When necessary, I take the puck out of either the tank bag or the empty fairing pocket where the shitty radio used to be (LT). Then I drop the puck onto the ground and put the side stand leg on top of it. Next I place the loop end over the left side handlebar as a reminder that it is there.
Makes the lean angle a lot less and doesn't sink in loose surface.
(sorry, too lazy to go and take a pic)
Post by: Nine80seven on September 18, 2019, 12:10:07 PM
Post by: Soggz on September 18, 2019, 02:18:05 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 18, 2019, 03:19:42 PM
The wear in the lever is evident, hence the ‘up and down’ slop, which has now vanished.Do you know how many miles had been racked up on that relic before you got a hold of it?
Post by: Soggz on September 18, 2019, 03:57:04 PM
Do you know how many miles had been racked up on that relic before you got a hold of it?the speedo said 78,000+ When I got it last September, but the previous owner said that the original speedo broke and was replaced with one that had 10000 miles more on it. I’ve done 1000 on it since the 1st of June this year.
Post by: Skunky on September 18, 2019, 08:26:41 PM
How does the extension not interfere with the center stand when retracted! Awhile back I added a little to the bottom of the side stand KRS '84' and it interfered with the center stand, so it was removed. Now I'll have revisit this task.Admittedly when I use the centre stand I have to push the side stand down first and again when you take it off. Less of a problem that the excessive lean.
Post by: Martin on September 18, 2019, 08:57:44 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Skunky on September 18, 2019, 09:02:13 PM
I used a piece of boat roller and a 5" inch post cap for soft and sandy ground. A mate used a 6" X 6" piece of aluminium on a cord for soft ground.And do you get clearance Clarence?
Regards Martin.
Post by: K1300S on September 18, 2019, 10:33:01 PM
Lots this evening. Fitted the ‘proper’ rear rack, and new clutch lever and pivot bolt. Clutch now loads smoother. Greased with home made moly grease.The wear in the lever is evident, hence the ‘up and down’ slop, which has now vanished.
nice! quite a difference between the old and new levers.
Post by: Martin on September 19, 2019, 01:35:43 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Soggz on September 19, 2019, 02:34:55 AM
nice! quite a difference between the old and new levers.yup. More of a pleasure to ride
Post by: natalena on September 20, 2019, 06:39:17 PM
The kit is very nice with plastic plugs to detail fill the hex head bolts. Parts were individually packaged to avoid scratching...which happened on installation anyway.
The stock K75S front brake hose is long enough and just needed to be loosened and pivoted a bit. All other lines had ample length.
Ended up fabing up asymmetrical brackets to avoid any rub on the brake hose, keeping in mind full-lock clearance for the tank cover if used.
Mirrors adjust fine, and the slightly more upright posture is much more comfortable, especially on the wrists/forearms. GPS moves up a bit and blocks the low-gas and "choke" lights a little, although they can still be noted when lit.
Cheers!
Post by: johnny on September 21, 2019, 11:48:01 AM
hey mang is this a 32 year old rubber brake line...
:smoke07
just saying mang...
brakefail.png (30.27 kB . 540x576 - viewed 504 times)j o
Post by: Soggz on September 21, 2019, 12:12:40 PM
Twisted Throttle has the SW-Motech bar riser for K bikes on sale. Got a set for about $65.00 (bar=22mm, H=30mm, Back=21mm), and they shipped super fast.They look good. Wouldn’t mind some, myself.
The kit is very nice with plastic plugs to detail fill the hex head bolts. Parts were individually packaged to avoid scratching...which happened on installation anyway.
The stock K75S front brake hose is long enough and just needed to be loosened and pivoted a bit. All other lines had ample length.
Ended up fabing up asymmetrical brackets to avoid any rub on the brake hose, keeping in mind full-lock clearance for the tank cover if used.
Mirrors adjust fine, and the slightly more upright posture is much more comfortable, especially on the wrists/forearms. GPS moves up a bit and blocks the low-gas and "choke" lights a little, although they can still be noted when lit.
Cheers!
Post by: natalena on September 21, 2019, 04:01:09 PM
greetings...
hey mang is this a 32 year old rubber brake line...
:smoke07
just saying mang...
Good eye's! Yep, 100% authentic BMW original source. I plan on upgrading the lines when I change out the original 78k mile front brake pads, but so far they're stopping great, as long as you plan in advance and keep a thumb on the horn ready.
Post by: Skunky on September 22, 2019, 02:30:58 AM
I've got one of those :withstupid
Post by: ScooterNSticks on September 23, 2019, 07:14:30 PM
Post by: johnny on September 23, 2019, 07:23:59 PM
i had them put black light bulbs in my cluster... its rad as f... makes the white markings on the speedo and tach glow like a moe... cost a few extra butts worth it for sure...
j o
Post by: Nine80seven on September 23, 2019, 08:20:20 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 24, 2019, 09:53:29 PM
Here is the parts fiche from Max BMW
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/3823-170919073010-24561488.png)
I have a low seat on my bike and the actuator rod is a little short on mine as well. It does fit and does work but only just...
So while I didn't order up an actuator rod #19 on the fiche, I dug up a slightly smaller diameter rod added .5 inch length, matched the bend and presto. Its been off and on several times in the first week with no ill habits. Low seat induces a bit of Honda Magna, Shadowesque look in profile but what is lost in smooth lines is ....smooth lines, in corner and really enjoying having both feet comfortably planted on terra firma. If 5'7" or less the low saddle is the way to go.
Post by: volador on September 25, 2019, 12:28:51 AM
So while I didn't order up an actuator rod #19 on the fiche, I dug up a slightly smaller diameter rod added .5 inch length,
Isn't that actuator rod like a bicycle spoke?
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 25, 2019, 12:43:54 AM
Post by: Martin on September 25, 2019, 01:51:15 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: natalena on September 25, 2019, 10:40:21 AM
Post by: beemuker on September 25, 2019, 11:16:44 AM
Another warm day for scooting down the country road's for a hunt. Talked earlier in the season with a sheriff at the pull-out, and he reminded me "don't forget, passengers need helmet's too" with a grin.what are you anchoring those red bungies to.? I have used the grab bars, but even the plastic ends seem to scratch the paint.
Post by: Soggz on September 25, 2019, 11:27:09 AM
Post by: natalena on September 25, 2019, 12:29:34 PM
what are you anchoring those red bungies to.? I have used the grab bars, but even the plastic ends seem to scratch the paint.
Got the kayak D-rings off Amazon at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FS1W4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They only cost $8.89 for 6 pieces, and another buck or so for stainless screws with larger fender washers that were in the recycle parts bin. Arranged it so there's good clearance with hooks, has a strong shear at the 2 inboard rings, and it doubles with a small bungee to always keep the lid from bouncing open if over packed. Tested by tying it and pulling a large log across the yard to the wood pile. Cheers!
Post by: Soggz on September 26, 2019, 08:34:27 AM
Post by: natalena on September 26, 2019, 02:58:15 PM
Got two floor laminate sample's at Home Depot, drilled and screwed together with a wood screw from the bin. It can pivot to adjust the height, and can be turned to have an edge dig into the ground and stay put. Several textures and color designs to match your brick and parking spot.
Post by: Chaos on September 26, 2019, 06:51:03 PM
Got the kayak D-rings off Amazon
Those are nice, much less obtrusive than those damn "bungee buddies" that used to be stuck haphazardly all over otherwise nice bikes. Years ago I bent and pop riveted some coat hangers, they're held up well.
Post by: Nine80seven on September 26, 2019, 07:56:00 PM
Post by: Nine80seven on September 28, 2019, 09:34:12 PM
Post by: Gabriel70 on September 28, 2019, 09:45:05 PM
Get off your soapbox. This section is for posting what you and your Brick did to each other recently.
Chill!
Post by: Gabriel70 on September 30, 2019, 09:44:45 AM
Yesterday I was reckless. I wanted to chronicle my marvelous country commute home on my gopro....maybe another day.... I was too too hot entering a deep right hander- off screen to left of frame. The bike hit what I term a "whooptie" as in a tarmac repair that unweighted the suspension. The handlebars began to oscillate uncontrollably. on the brakes now, right knee dropping to fight the gyrations and off into a ditch went my lovely silver bitch I call Betz. Go Pro recorded I left the saddle at 78mph. Dumb ass...now sore ass... The Go Pro footage is wild. I must have tumbled 30 times Not proud of that today but thankful I'm sufficiently acrobatic to walk away with only rash....all armor installed for this ride daily...
So is it the spinning drive shaft that induces this wobble? Is it the fluidbloc that is there to fight this? chain drive and a steering damper for my next ride me thinks!!
The bike is insured and I intend to restore it as most of it is cosmetic.
38 years of street riding, this is my very first shunt. My sons age 19 and 24 will never let me live this down. My bride held her breath a lot yesterday.
78mph ..seriously???
I suggest you slow down before you kill yourself ...
Post by: Scott on September 30, 2019, 10:33:22 AM
Post by: Soggz on September 30, 2019, 02:39:23 PM
Post by: Supershooter on October 01, 2019, 09:57:10 PM
After a fuel stop and 15 miles we stop at a stop sign and the bike states to act up. It didn't want to idle without a lot of throttle twist, and then it took all the fuel I was offering and jumped forward until I grabbed the clutch, almost bucking her off. She was not impressed. I herded the bike to a safe place off the road, it died but the start was engaged as soon as it died until it started and ran fine for the next ten miles and one stop sign. The following stop sign, it acted up again, I killed it restarted it, ran fine until we got home 15 miles later, no more stop signs.
What's wrong now?
Supershooter
Post by: johnny on October 01, 2019, 10:10:44 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on October 01, 2019, 11:14:25 PM
78mph ..seriously???
I suggest you slow down before you kill yourself ...
I appreciate the suggestion sir- but decline! I’ve been reluctant to post the GoPro cam video that shows the speedo at 78 when I dumped it. I tumbled 4 times. I was very lucky in deed and, ready for more! Went out and found a better Brick! If you haven’t viewed it go search YouTube for Dunlop wobble and weave this video did a great job of explaining why I tumbled. 49 years literally one shunt- I’m ok with that.
Post by: Soggz on October 02, 2019, 02:05:30 AM
I appreciate the suggestion sir- but decline! I’ve been reluctant to post the GoPro cam video that shows the speedo at 78 when I dumped it. I tumbled 4 times. I was very lucky in deed and, ready for more! Went out and found a better Brick! If you haven’t viewed it go search YouTube for Dunlop wobble and weave this video did a great job of explaining why I tumbled. 49 years literally one shunt- I’m ok with that.Dunlop wobble and weave! Lol. That happened to me on my bricks ‘shake down’ ride earlier in the year! Only, I got it up to 114 mph to see what I could get out of it! I never dumped it, just laid down on the tank with the throttle off. Controlled it down to 90 ok, then rode home. New progressive springs are bought, and sat in my garage waiting for the front end rebuild in the winter!
No video though, as I don’t have a action cam.
Post by: Martin on October 02, 2019, 02:42:10 AM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Soggz on October 02, 2019, 02:46:06 AM
Packed up my camping gear for a three day ride encompassing the BM Kane Toad Rallye. I love the compact camping gear that is available these days. I managed to get all the camping gear in the left hand tragkorb. All the other gear went into the right hand tragkorb and top box with no need to strap anything down on top of the bike.Now that’s cool!
Regards Martin.
What’s a hootchie? Is that the equivalent of a tarp?
Post by: Martin on October 02, 2019, 04:05:41 AM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Scott on October 02, 2019, 01:10:53 PM
hoochie mama_001.jpg (30.34 kB . 384x576 - viewed 691 times)
Post by: volador on October 02, 2019, 06:28:07 PM
Not to be confused with a Hoochie Mama,More like Drama Queen!
Post by: Supershooter on October 02, 2019, 10:14:18 PM
fore pin
???
Supershooter
Post by: Scott on October 02, 2019, 10:34:10 PM
Post by: Soggz on October 03, 2019, 12:41:41 AM
It's an all purpose Australian Army shelter. It can be used as a tent, sun shade or open shelter, it can also be clipped to other Hotchee's to create a bigger shelter. It's compact and lightweight. I used to use one all the time until I upgraded to a tent, but it still comes in handy.Thats smart! I like that! Thanks.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Soggz on October 03, 2019, 12:42:28 AM
More like Drama Queen!Sure it’s not a drag queen? Lol
Post by: Scott on October 07, 2019, 10:46:58 AM
Post by: Chaos on October 07, 2019, 10:50:00 AM
Post by: Scott on October 07, 2019, 11:04:37 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 07, 2019, 02:41:32 PM
Post by: Soggz on October 07, 2019, 03:01:27 PM
Post by: Martin on October 08, 2019, 10:13:18 PM
Previously the GPI had gone intermittent due to either the connector behind the side cover or the multi pin connector on the back of the pod. Last time it happened I cleaned and tightened all the connectors. All connectors tested OK so I assumed there was a problem with the GPI board mounting. I pulled the GPI board and tightened cleaned and greased the pins with Electrolube CG53A contact grease. The GPI now functions as intended. Now all I have to do is wash all the baked on bugs and crap off the Brick.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 10, 2019, 07:32:12 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 10, 2019, 09:01:58 PM
Cleaned a bunch of corrosion out of the mechanism especially the lever pivot screw. Lubed with a bit of petroleum jelly and reassembled everything. Problem solved.
When I saw the crap inside the cover I was afraid I had a leaky piston in the master cylinder, but despite all the mess under the rubber boot, the cylinder was dry. Brake is working well now.
Post by: Par751 on October 11, 2019, 02:53:30 PM
Post by: Martin on October 11, 2019, 03:57:56 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 11, 2019, 07:15:43 PM
Gryph I pack silicone grease on top of the piston and also under the boot of the rear master cylinder. The theory being if air and water can't get in it won't corrode.
Regards Martin.
Martin, I thought about doing that with some Dow Corning silicone grease I have for the electrical stuff. What holds me back is that some brake parts have EPDM seals that are destroyed by petroleum products. The only grease that is totally safe to use is red veggie grease that costs more than Starburags.
After putting a little petroleum jelly on the pivot screw I just decided to leave well enough alone. I took a 200 mile ride ride today, and the brake worked perfectly.
Post by: Martin on October 11, 2019, 07:31:13 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 11, 2019, 07:33:56 PM
Post by: Soggz on October 12, 2019, 03:20:35 AM
My newly acquired 87 K75s came with the apparently very rare 22l mounting plate so I found a very reasonably priced 22l top case on eBay and mointed that. A nice little mini back rest for my passenger.Hi. Can you post a couple of pics of the plate please, for ideas, as I’m making something like one.
Post by: RobP on October 12, 2019, 09:15:36 AM
Post by: alabrew on October 12, 2019, 11:22:03 AM
There is a picture of one in the the YOU started - Topic: Iconic 22litre topbox
Top right of the page is a serach box, type 22litre topbox nd you git a link to YOUR thread.
Look it up!
Post by: Soggz on October 12, 2019, 02:28:18 PM
Soggz - you are killing me!lol. I havnt got a pic of it there, either!
There is a picture of one in the the YOU started - Topic: Iconic 22litre topbox
Top right of the page is a serach box, type 22litre topbox nd you git a link to YOUR thread.
Look it up!
Post by: dougo on October 12, 2019, 05:25:35 PM
Post by: Scott on October 12, 2019, 06:45:19 PM
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Post by: Laitch on October 17, 2019, 09:57:23 AM
I also installed one screw into each tragkorb securing it to the z-rack for prevention of launch during pothole navigation here. When I'm satisfied it works as intended, I'll post a Workshop thread about it. It isn't very complicated. :-)
Post by: Chaos on October 17, 2019, 10:17:46 AM
I'll probably replace the pinion gear shaft and driveshaft next fall.I'm going to need to do that sometime. Let us know if you find and economic way
Post by: Past-my-Prime on October 17, 2019, 08:40:35 PM
I'm going to need to do that sometime. Let us know if you find and economic way
Me too!!!!! sooner rather than later in my case but I don't want to take the whole FD apart to send just the gear to Hansens, otherwise it's very very expensive by my standards:
If you send the complete rear end the cost is $759.20 to $1,374.93. If you send the Pinion Gear only, the repair is $240. Plus a new DS which is $374.18, it adds up!
On Ebay, DS plus FD is very rare to find together. Most DS's they don't show you the spline if you just get that although that might get me a few more miles, cheaply. I have some longer distances I'd like to travel.
I'm looking forward to when I can post: I changed the driveshaft and pinion gear on my bike.
Post by: Soggz on October 18, 2019, 09:14:48 AM
Me too!!!!! sooner rather than later in my case but I don't want to take the whole FD apart to send just the gear to Hansens, otherwise it's very very expensive by my standards:I just got a new spline set and a 23,000mile final drive. Splines on the FD are really good, and I can get the splines welded on for free! Total cost, £190.00.
If you send the complete rear end the cost is $759.20 to $1,374.93. If you send the Pinion Gear only, the repair is $240. Plus a new DS which is $374.18, it adds up!
On Ebay, DS plus FD is very rare to find together. Most DS's they don't show you the spline if you just get that although that might get me a few more miles, cheaply. I have some longer distances I'd like to travel.
I'm looking forward to when I can post: I changed the driveshaft and pinion gear on my bike.
Post by: volador on October 18, 2019, 11:38:32 AM
I just got a new spline set and a 23,000mile final drive. Splines on the FD are really good, and I can get the splines welded on for free! Total cost, £190.00.Place your bets! How many miles will this cheddar last?
Post by: Soggz on October 18, 2019, 01:30:23 PM
Place your bets! How many miles will this cheddar last?lol. I bought some of that German grease too. I might just fix it all up and sell the pos!
Post by: Laitch on October 18, 2019, 02:10:06 PM
Post by: Soggz on October 18, 2019, 05:09:05 PM
When life hands you a lemon, make lemonade! Of course, needing to run a lemonade stand might not be that enjoyable :-) unless you enjoy meeting people and striking bargains.German lemonade is more expensive and troublesome than Japanese lemonade, or so I am finding! Lol
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on October 20, 2019, 06:38:58 PM
(https://imgur.com/N0hT5tS.jpg)
Random switch that isn't connected. Not the "choke", or brake switch? Was just hanging?
(https://imgur.com/JpH0ncK.jpg)
Connects up here.
(https://imgur.com/FVBXiUl.jpg)
This breather was pinched off. But why?
(https://imgur.com/PQcVO2h.jpg)
Also what is this?
(https://i.imgur.com/VuYCEDX.jpg)
thx for the guidance.
Its a super easy bike to work on, just like to ride it more! :johnny
Post by: volador on October 21, 2019, 12:28:35 AM
#4 pic- Emission tube/stub found on the front of the block. A design change states to plug off the tube/stub how ever you chose, fold over the hose, insert a proper sized screw, a golf tee...
This thread shows the check valve that once upon a time was connected to the folded over hose Reply #7 and associated service bulletin Reply #13
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12374.msg109367.html#msg109367
#5 pic- looks like a aftermarket accessory plug for most likely heated clothing, cocktail blender, etc...
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on October 21, 2019, 03:07:42 PM
Really need to look into the cocktail blender. bmp
What's weird is the clutch and brake switches are present (also one by the throttles). This one is an Extra?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 21, 2019, 04:01:51 PM
Post by: volador on October 21, 2019, 04:15:41 PM
Main harness connects
Choke switch: Violet/White and Brown
Clutch switch: Green/Black and Black/Green
4th possibility for pre-1986/1987 is depending on the right foot rest/peg plate type used the plunger type switch later changed to lever type brake switch
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12979.msg115340.html#new
Post by: Skunky on October 24, 2019, 07:47:33 AM
Post by: Martin on October 30, 2019, 01:37:37 AM
I had a look at the place where I got it originally and they had heaps of horns. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/ This time I decided to try a different approach. You can buy high power magnums diaphragm horns 136 Db $32.95 Au a pair or buy them individually without the relay which works out $16.45 Au for the low tone and $13.70 for the high tone.
I decided to go one at a time and bought the low note first, which was pretty good but I decided to go for the second high note. I just pulled off the pathetic OEM horn and the magnum bolted straight on. The way I originally wired them I had the choice of the nautilus or the OEM. Now I have the choice of one magnum or two.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Past-my-Prime on October 30, 2019, 06:50:24 PM
My Stebel Nautilus air horn 139Db lost it's bellow and started to just squawk. I removed it and pulled the horn part off the compressor as it didn't seem to be putting out much air. I sprayed some lube into the air intake but still no joy. The compressor is a sealed unit so out of curiosity I decided to bust it open and I still couldn't see why it was not working. The motor span up fine and the vanes were intact. I bought it in 2015 for $35.00 Au the current price is $39.95 Au.
I had a look at the place where I got it originally and they had heaps of horns. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/ This time I decided to try a different approach. You can buy high power magnums diaphragm horns 136 Db $32.95 Au a pair or buy them individually without the relay which works out $16.45 Au for the low tone and $13.70 for the high tone.
I decided to go one at a time and bought the low note first, which was pretty good but I decided to go for the second high note. I just pulled off the pathetic OEM horn and the magnum bolted straight on. The way I originally wired them I had the choice of the nautilus or the OEM. Now I have the choice of one magnum or two.
Regards Martin.
Loud pipes just annoy people. Loud horns WAKE THEM UP: :usesearchahole
Post by: Martin on October 30, 2019, 09:33:28 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: alabrew on December 23, 2019, 02:17:04 PM
Damn rear tyre on the RS is flat AGAIN! Took it off and put it a tub a water and quickly found the 2" trim nail I haven't been able to see. Really fought to not be removed. A small hole, had to really work to git my Stop & Go plugger. I always mess up with the first mushroom, but gots it with the second. Stopped to pick up some hex head bolts to make removing the silencer easier to git the tyre out and should have it back together this evening so I can ride it tomorrow.
Post by: alabrew on December 26, 2019, 11:35:14 AM
Current plan is to remove it from the rim (I just happen to have a HF MC tyre changing stand at the house) and have the tyre shop patch it from the inside.
Considered just replacing it (shmbo's suggestion), but it only has 5k on it.
Post by: Supershooter on December 28, 2019, 10:40:57 PM
Supershooter
Post by: ScooterNSticks on December 29, 2019, 04:20:36 PM
I was on the phone with a friend. He wanted to know if I wanted to go for a ride. Sadly, I had to decline so I could attend to some adult responsibilities... [ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: alabrew on December 31, 2019, 01:45:02 PM
Post by: Chaos on January 01, 2020, 09:17:31 AM
RS rear tyre saga continues.
Sometime the grinch is just out to getcha
Post by: natalena on January 02, 2020, 12:04:22 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 20, 2020, 02:28:24 PM
Thought about selling them, but that's a pain in the ass.
Post by: Laitch on January 20, 2020, 02:53:02 PM
Post by: Soggz on January 20, 2020, 04:53:27 PM
Long time.
Got mine out of the garage today. Bit too icy to risk taking it out. Gave it a good clean, waiting for warmer weather. Hope your all well, and a belated Happy New Year.
Post by: Chaos on January 20, 2020, 05:10:43 PM
Shitcanned a ton of parts, coils, mirrors, switches grips, fairing parts, etc, etc. Taking up too much room.
Thought about selling them, but that's a pain in the ass.
Quick! A map to your shitcan!
Post by: daveson on January 21, 2020, 03:41:56 AM
Meanwhile, on the other side of the world, this is the first year I'm waiting for summer to finish so I can get more riding days in, too many too hot days. It's probably a combination of summers getting hotter and me getting older.
Post by: Soggz on January 21, 2020, 09:37:01 AM
Hi Soggz,Hows all the fire situation over there? I see it on the news.Is it near you?
Meanwhile, on the other side of the world, this is the first year I'm waiting for summer to finish so I can get more riding days in, too many too hot days. It's probably a combination of summers getting hotter and me getting older.
Post by: daveson on January 21, 2020, 02:17:27 PM
Post by: Soggz on January 21, 2020, 03:33:27 PM
The fires aren't in this area, but summer has just started. The fires didn't even wait for summer this year. People are complaining about the smoke, strangely I like the smell of the smoke, reminds me of my first job when I left school, a fire fighter with the Forrest's Commission (supposedly they have a life expectancy ten years less than average cause of the smoke over the years)Go careful.
Post by: caveman on January 22, 2020, 05:07:48 AM
Post by: koapono on March 01, 2020, 10:13:54 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on March 07, 2020, 02:03:11 AM
Took the interstate back from Kingston. The brick is like a little kid, keeps saying, "faster daddy, go faster."
I do need to replace the bobbins on the front discs, there's a lot of slop there.
Post by: koapono on March 07, 2020, 07:31:32 AM
The 1100 has been "self-centering" for a while, noticeable at red-lights and low speed. At first I attributed it to the front tire as the condition disappeared at speed but a new tire nixed that theory!
A defined notch or index developed, easily noticed with front wheel elevated. The wheel would not swing freely from side to side, there was a flat-spot felt as the wheel passed from one side to the other.
I reckoned this to be an unpleasant task but if you have the skills required to change a clutch, rear-main seal or successfully reassemble dismantled components you should prevail if you decide to undertake this task.
Chris Harris also has some outstanding videos that reference this task, informative and amusing to boot.
I left the fairing and windshield in place but did remove the fuel tank, this gave me plenty of room to wrestle with the upper, inner bearing race. I used a dremel tool to split the race on opposite sides and was then able to chisel it out of its seat.
I drove the lower race out with a drift punch and hammer.
The upper bearing was removed using a drift punch and driving the bearing off its stub shaft.
I applied some heat (MAPP bottle) to lower bearing and it lifted off its seat after one hammer and chisel blow.
reassembly involved placing the steering shaft and inner races in the freezer for a few hours and the bearings in a 400 degree (F) oven for an hour or so. I heated the steering tube (frame) with a heat gun until it was hot to the touch and the chilled inner races nearly fell into place. They both required some mild force (hammer and wooden block) to get them fully seated.
The heated bearings required minimal force to get them seated. A piece of 1 inch pipe fit nicely upon the inner rim of the bearing and a couple hammer blows drove them home.
reassembly is straight forward as is adjusting proper bearing play, lots of video out there.
You'll require a full kit of tools, some mechanical experience and an understanding spouse (freezer and oven use) to tackle this project.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 07, 2020, 08:22:11 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on March 07, 2020, 07:04:40 PM
The tornado only got as close as the county line. I drove back from Nashville on 70N just last Sunday, a beautiful stretch of road. Not so beautiful now.
I'll be driving to Nashville tomorrow for a club meeting. I'm afraid that all of my favorite bars are gone.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on March 07, 2020, 07:39:46 PM
Things I learned about the brick today:
- leaving the fill cap off the valve cover, even for a few seconds to let the oil filter fill and the oil light to go out, results in a significant spatter distribution across the side of the bike and the seat boohoo.
- Mobil 1 runs out of the bike a lot faster than it runs back into the bike in 50 degree weather. If I had known I was going to change the oil I would have brought the can into the house and set it by the heater for a day.
- the second smallest of the 4-pack of Harbor Freight oil filter wrenches fits the NAPA Gold filter that fits the bike - none of them fit the Carquest filter that came out of it.
Reminded again of what a really nice ride that motorcycle is.
Post by: Martin on March 31, 2020, 07:58:39 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on March 31, 2020, 09:03:03 PM
I saw very few cars on the road, but plenty of Hoglys. Made the loop up through Sparta and back home, about 100 miles total.
No lock down until today. Still, I couldn't find a bar open to finish the day properly.
Maybe by the time this is over I'll have the BSA back on the road.
Post by: herseyb on April 01, 2020, 05:48:42 PM
What should I do?
Tape the cracks close and superglue?
Drill out the ends of the cracks?
Remove fairing, expand crack, add fiberglass patches to the back, bondo the front?
Cry?
Post by: Martin on April 01, 2020, 06:40:15 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 01, 2020, 06:57:03 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2020, 07:38:29 PM
To start, if you can flex the crack a bit to fill it with CA glue. I use the stuff from the hobby shop that cures with a shot of catalyst. Put a bunch on the crack, work it in and then give is a shot. That will hold everything in place while you do the rest of the job.
On the back side remove the paint to at least 2 inches(3 would be better) away from the crack in every direction but not where it shows outside the inner trim. Rough up the surface with 36 or 80 grit.
Get some epoxy resin. About a half pint of resin with hardener should be about right. Fiberglass mat is messy to work with if you never did it before, but makes the strongest repair. I usually use tape, the bound edges make it easier to get a neat repair. Two inch wide should be good.
A note about resin. I used to use polyester, but learned that the material the fairings are made of has mold release wax in it that prevents a good bond. Epoxy, on the other hand bonds a lot better. The problem with epoxy is that it takes a lot longer to cure, and you have to arrange the work so you aren't putting the patch on a vertical surface. That really isn't a big deal, just position the fairing with the front pointing down. It will be a lot easier to work in that position as well.
Mix about two ounces of resin with catalyst, and let it sit for ten minutes while you cut the patches. Three layers is about right, with the top layer covering the entire roughed up area and each layer below it a bit smaller that the one above.
Put the patches on a scrap of plywood and saturate them with the resin. They;re ready when the fiberglass is transparent. Squeegee the excess resin out of the patches with a filler spreader before you put them on the repair. Start with the smallest patch and go up, pushing the air out with a chip brush before putting down the next one. Once they're all down, keep an eye on them to make sure they don't slide out of position. You might have to keep messing with them for as long as 4-5 hours. If the repair surface is horizontal, the chance of the patches sliding is almost zero.
When the patch has hardened, you can do the crack in the front. Get an old fashioned beer can opener and sharpen the point. Use it to widen out the crack to be about 2mm deep and 3mm wide. Even though it's polyester based, I have had good results with DuraGlas filler. Before you mix it and put it into the widened crack scrub out the inside of the crack with an old toothbrush dipped in acetone. Mix the DuraGlas and work it well into the crack. Build up the repair and after an overnight cure sand with 220 followed by 320. Use a block to get a fair surface. A scrap of wood will work. A couple coats of light gray high build primer sanded with 320 should have the surface ready for paint.
Post by: herseyb on April 01, 2020, 08:02:00 PM
I have had the opportunity to do repairs 3 times on them.
Right, no crying in baseball. Opportunity mindset! Intrepid motobricking will continue. Thanks for the write up. I think I have everything but the sand paper.
Martin, I am gonna work on a side stand foot as well seeing as I lack a paved driveway and garage.
Post by: johnny on April 01, 2020, 08:56:48 PM
Post by: Martin on April 01, 2020, 09:01:47 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2020, 10:58:42 PM
I've found that the extreme lean angle of the Brick on it's sidestand is necessary to allow an old fart like me to be able to get my damn leg over the comfort seat when I'm wearing all my gear. On the center stand, I have a 1'x2' chunk of 1/4" plywood that I throw under the bike when I put it on the center stand on my driveway. Even on an asphalt driveway, the stands punch divots in the surface.
"Spit some beechnut in his eye". Love that song.
Post by: johnny on April 02, 2020, 01:48:08 PM
Post by: volador on April 02, 2020, 02:10:58 PM
a country boy can survive...
a country boy just got vertigo...
Post by: herseyb on April 02, 2020, 04:38:57 PM
Post by: Martin on April 02, 2020, 04:50:40 PM
Soft ground cost me a $350 Hardly Fergusen saddle bag lid when Moby Brick Junior decided to get intimate with a friend's bike.Gryph $350.00 sounds a bit dear are you sure it wasn't for the whole bike.
Regards a perplexed Martin.
Post by: herseyb on April 02, 2020, 08:31:07 PM
Farm and fleet has drive through pick up if you order online, so I am getting the missing supplies tomorrow. So far so good....
Btw, has anyone used aluminum brazing rod on a gas tank? I got some to patch a hole in my aluminum canoe after a 15 year bondo repair is flaking off, and now I am wondering if I can fix the leaks on my k75 tank with it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 02, 2020, 09:51:31 PM
Gryph $350.00 sounds a bit dear are you sure it wasn't for the whole bike.
Regards a perplexed Martin.
Martin, Hardly parts with the correct custom paint from the factory are beyond dear. In fact, they are almost as bad as Motorrad parts.
Post by: herseyb on April 04, 2020, 04:23:47 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 04, 2020, 08:14:11 PM
Thinking I had the u-joint in the driveshaft getting ready to shit the bed I made plans to pull the shaft today to check it out. Pulled the rear wheel, pulled the caliper off, removed the screws holding the final drive. Then I went to remove the rear shock...
Crap! The nut that holds the the bottom of the shock to the final drive was loose and backed off at least two turns allowing the shock to slide back and forth on the stud.
Put everything back together and went for a ride. Silence!!! New self locking nut is now at the top of the "to do" list.
Post by: herseyb on April 04, 2020, 08:36:00 PM
Post by: herseyb on April 11, 2020, 08:27:40 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 11, 2020, 08:36:59 AM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 12, 2020, 03:39:49 PM
I'm starting with a fender and some side covers before graduating to a petrol tank. Maybe after that I'll feel comfortable enough with my skill to paint the fairing, IF I can find an acceptable blue metalic paint.
Post by: Martin on April 12, 2020, 04:41:51 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Scott on April 12, 2020, 07:00:37 PM
Post by: Martin on April 12, 2020, 08:19:05 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Scott on April 12, 2020, 09:00:07 PM
Post by: Chaos on April 12, 2020, 11:06:29 PM
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 12, 2020, 11:31:06 PM
If you feel like you would be doing a lot of spraying it might be worthwhile doing a spray painting course.While I'm at it I might as well sign up for tool and die. Seems like the solution to many problems with the BSA involve, "Turn one up on your lathe." :laughing4-giggles:
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on April 13, 2020, 12:33:33 AM
At the moment the point is moot. We were going to have a thorough spring clean and take stuff to the dump. However somebody got fined for doing a dump run as it wasn't deemed necessary. However the dump is still open. BCF shops (Boating Camping Fishing) are still open but all of the activities in the title are banned. :nono2:
Regards Martin.
Post by: herseyb on April 16, 2020, 08:22:16 PM
This thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1135.0 mentions it could be from a pedal adjustment causing the master to stick... but when I manually apply the lever the brakes definitely engage, so its not completely stuck. Pedal seems to return fully as well since I can't lift it any further than where it returns naturally.
Thinking about flushing the fluid as a first step since it needs it anyway. hmm....
Post by: milq on April 16, 2020, 11:19:55 PM
when I manually apply the lever the brakes definitely engage, so its not completely stuck. Pedal seems to return fully as well since I can't lift it any further than where it returns naturally.
Thinking about flushing the fluid as a first step since it needs it anyway. hmm....
Is pressure immediately released from the disc when you let go of the pedal? I've had square seals that didn't fully retract cause pistons to stay out enough to cause dragging for a few second, as well as in internally collapsed brake line doing the same.
Post by: herseyb on April 17, 2020, 10:08:45 AM
Post by: johnny on April 17, 2020, 10:44:32 AM
if you f-ing with the brakes i would put that final line on there...
i gotts a mityvac (https://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html) if you wanna pull all new fluid thru the entire system... if it was me id proally do that 1st if there are no master leaks...
j io
Post by: herseyb on April 19, 2020, 03:33:06 PM
edit -
well longer ride showed no luck, still pinging. next thoughts are grungy master or grungy caliper...
Post by: herseyb on April 20, 2020, 09:43:18 PM
should i use brake cleaner on the pistons or will that fuck the seals up? I will probably start with simple green.
Post by: Skunky on April 21, 2020, 04:54:48 PM
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Post by: Barry in IN on April 21, 2020, 06:28:53 PM
Luckily, it didn’t knock the bike over and it hit where the fairing was already scuffed, so I can’t tell that it did anything. It now occurs to me I should’ve left the ladder there rather than risk giving it another shot. Secure the ladder? Please. Don’t be silly. This is how I learn.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on April 21, 2020, 11:46:50 PM
I followed the excellent instructions in the technical section here, thank you.
I've found that, much like working on Japanese cars, it helps to have multiple lengths of tools in order to get around whatever is in the way of getting to a fastener.
BTW: I suggest one addition to the instructions for this procedure. Put some electrical tape over the positive battery terminal to avoid the probability of shorting the battery when pulling the Motronic box out of the frame.
Post by: herseyb on April 26, 2020, 12:16:42 PM
I was surprised when cleaning the pins didn't solve my heating disc issue because I saw retraction in the cylinders when I had the caliper off the bike.
After getting the bubbles out of the new line, I slowly rotated the rear wheel and could hear contact for about 2/3rs of the wheel, with about 1/3 sound either clear or very quiet.
Now I am suspecting that perhaps the disc has too much lateral run out - maybe due to heating from the icky sticky slider pins. So I guess I need to get a dial indicator... at this point it's either new disc and/or rebuild the caliper.
Post by: Scott on May 01, 2020, 07:08:49 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on May 02, 2020, 12:09:22 PM
Put a brand new Avon on the rear to replace the almost new one with a nail in it. Still had 5.5 mm tread left. I'll keep it around and use it on a tube bike application.
Would you ever run it with a plug in it?
Post by: mw074 on May 02, 2020, 12:39:43 PM
Post by: johnny on May 02, 2020, 12:42:10 PM
moto tiors flex too much to ride on a plugged tior for very long... unless you are the michigan militia of course...
il_794xN.1757327329_p2j6.jpg (86.5 kB . 480x576 - viewed 540 times)and unless you ride like a pussy... pussy... grabb you some...
download.jpeg (47.26 kB . 768x467 - viewed 474 times)j o
Post by: mw074 on May 02, 2020, 01:55:41 PM
Post by: volador on May 02, 2020, 03:23:04 PM
let me get a bowl of Lucky Charms...
Post by: daveson on May 02, 2020, 04:10:26 PM
Getts you some...
Post by: Scott on May 02, 2020, 04:50:11 PM
Would you ever run it with a plug in it?I wouldn't for long, just to get home, like I did with this one. There are repairs that plug and patch from the inside, all in one whack, that are supposed to be fine to use permanently. Maybe those would save buying a new tire. The rope plug I used was holding air, but I'm never comfortable with a compromised tire. After all, it's all I have between me and the tarmac. I have a use for the other tire that can use a tube, so all's good here. 112350
Post by: mw074 on May 02, 2020, 06:15:21 PM
Post by: Martin on May 02, 2020, 07:00:34 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on May 02, 2020, 08:49:25 PM
Post by: Chri5 on May 04, 2020, 12:49:31 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 04, 2020, 12:57:13 PM
Refreshed my switch gear not quite finished but that's for tomorrowNice work! What did you use to clean them, Chri5?
Post by: volador on May 04, 2020, 01:54:50 PM
Post by: CTDOM! on May 13, 2020, 09:46:24 AM
Last night I was able to remove the bolt that holds the front brake lever. Took an easy out, two wrenches and many curse words.. Now to get the parts so the K's back on the road..
Post by: RobP on May 24, 2020, 09:41:37 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 25, 2020, 08:24:43 AM
Post by: RobP on May 25, 2020, 12:28:05 PM
Quote
Do you have a link to where I can cop a couple?
Revzilla.com among other places. They are the MotionPro 'bead breaker' tire irons and the MotionPro rim protectors. Not shown is Bullsnot tire lube available on Amazon.
See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAKIuSjPXxA&t=303s
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 25, 2020, 05:16:30 PM
One thing about the video, I have found that the valve stem isn't necessarily the heaviest spot on the rim. Now, I check the balance of the wheel without the tire and mark the heavy spot which I have found can be as much as 8 inches away from the valve stem. Doing this check, has made getting perfect balance a lot easier.
Post by: Rcgreaves on May 25, 2020, 10:33:22 PM
Speaking of gouges the tire protectors didn’t... found myself wrestling to fish them
Out .. The big holes in the protectors are good for honking on them without breaking or tearing the rubber etc. my weight went nearly in same location.
Post by: Laitch on May 26, 2020, 06:59:33 AM
. . . the Motion Pro $50 gouge...Members can forge their own before the weather gets too hot and save some money; if they do some extras, they can sell them at farmers' markets. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 26, 2020, 08:25:15 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 26, 2020, 09:03:27 AM
For $50 I'll stick with the wheelbarrow handle rig I am using now.Action photo, please. Are you using the rocker panel of an SUV for a fulcrum?
Post by: natalena on June 10, 2020, 09:30:42 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 10, 2020, 10:23:19 AM
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Post by: natalena on June 10, 2020, 01:17:23 PM
Was there much traffic up there?
Motor coaches are just beginning to show up. Before the gate got opened, we rode bicycles to the plateau and bombed the return using the entire roadway. * Great Garmin pic
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 10, 2020, 05:25:16 PM
Post by: technostructural on June 21, 2020, 09:34:22 AM
There is no continuity between the yellow/white? lead to the fuel pump and the green wire on the male end of the 4-pin connector. The 4-pin itself is also (surprislingly) ok. All of this tells me that there is a fault in the wiring somewhere in the inside of the watertight sender connection.
Not being able or willing to dismantle this 90 degree, sealed, plastic fitting that goes from outside of the tank to inside (where I think the fault in the wiring is), I ordered a new sender unit. It's not cheap. Fingers crossed that it will be here in a few days.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 28, 2020, 12:02:34 AM
After a few very hot minutes by the roadside another rider showed up. He rode to a motorcycle shop which I had just passed but they had no way to tow the bike, so he rode off to the nearest wrecker service.
Before he returned a sheriff's deputy showed up and let me sit in his air-conditioned cruiser. He was worried that I might be dehydrated, but I was coherent though sweaty.
After a while my savior returned with some guys with a trailer to load up the disabled bike and haul it down the road to the place he was camping.
Hunt's Lodge is a nice little motorcycle campground. I spent the night there in a cabin and met some nice riders from Florida. The owner of the campground is a very nice lady with two friendly dogs and a pet duck who likes to nibble on bare toes. I had always wanted to spend a weekend at that place, just not this weekend.
Today I rented a Uhaul to bring the bike home. It took four of us to get it up the ramp, and I spent way too much on some tiedowns at NAPA.
Home now, but it might be quite some time before I even bother to remove the rear wheel to inspect the damage.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 28, 2020, 09:20:54 AM
If it is the drive shaft, I have one here in good shape that I can let you have for $300+shipping.
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 28, 2020, 11:41:26 AM
I had the drive off when I replaced the tire last year. I only greased the rear splines and whatever I could get to without further disassembly.
I'm not really clear on what is meant by phasing the u-joints. My only similar experience is with a large Ford van, which has two u-joints in its drive shaft. This whole assembly is balanced at the factory and must be reassembled according to the marks provided.
Now at home on the center stand in neutral, the rear wheel does not spin smoothly.
Post by: volador on June 28, 2020, 01:40:57 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1Sm2xfAyw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1Sm2xfAyw)
Post by: BlitzenGruv on June 29, 2020, 02:29:59 AM
I suspect the final drive my be the problem.
Post by: Laitch on June 29, 2020, 02:39:30 AM
I suspect the final drive my be the problem.Please keep us updated.
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on July 01, 2020, 06:50:21 PM
Took all day and the fan still doesn't work on it's own. The tests show the relay getting power but the damn thing just doesn't work. When I ground it the light turns on AND the fan kicks. The temp sensor was bad and just replaced. I'm so frustrated I want to set it on fire!!!! UUUGGGHHHH!!!
Post by: Laitch on July 01, 2020, 08:08:42 PM
When I ground it the light turns on AND the fan kicks. The temp sensor was bad and just replaced. I'm so frustrated I want to set it on fire!!!!Did you clean the threads of the stub pipe before you installed the sensor? Did you install it without thread tape?
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on July 01, 2020, 09:51:40 PM
Did you clean the threads of the stub pipe before you installed the sensor? Did you install it without thread tape?
I did clean the threads, they weren't too bad. Also when I check the temp sensor after warming the bike it's reading less resistance (480 Ohms).
Any other things I'm missing? I don't want to believe the computer is the culprit with only 31k miles on it.
Thanks Laitch!
Post by: Laitch on July 01, 2020, 10:59:51 PM
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on July 02, 2020, 10:04:34 AM
The first thing I did was clean all the grounds, the one under the tank and transmission.
Post by: Laitch on July 02, 2020, 10:19:26 AM
I cleaned the plug not the computer itself with automotive electric contact cleaner. Plug ten is which position?Cleaning the computer is not part of the picture. If you cleaned all the pins and sockets, then you cleaned pin 10. You need to be reviewing the troubleshooting guide. Download the link to the guide at the bottom of this post in Repair Guidance (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11295.msg98535.html#msg98535) to do that.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-020720101144.png)
Post by: Idonthaveaclue on July 02, 2020, 10:36:25 AM
You need to be reviewing the troubleshooting guide. Download the link to the guide at the bottom of this post in Repair Guidance (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11295.msg98535.html#msg98535) to do that.
I thought that was only no start, awesome. I'll take another look. When I did the idle test I let it sit for 10 min (its 100 degrees here), I wonder if it had an air bubble or that wasn't long enough......
Post by: Laitch on July 02, 2020, 11:00:35 AM
I thought that was only no start, awesome.It covers most systems, their operation and interaction in 2V Bricks.
Post by: 85killzillaRS on July 13, 2020, 10:01:14 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 14, 2020, 10:49:30 AM
The hi/low light switch is fried. Ï opened up the the left switch assembly and it looks pretty complicated and probably expensive to replace.Describe what your fried switch looks like. Those switches are repairable by someone who is patient. Guidance to repair them is in threads on the Web.
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on July 21, 2020, 02:54:54 PM
Post by: Barrieb on August 21, 2020, 11:16:23 AM
Through spending hours removing the swing arm pivot plate
After banging away at it with the slide hammer, the only way it would budge was with a pipe wrench to turn it
The plate now looks like an ABS brake disc ring!
Let the battle commence to work around the ABS to get the gearbox off!
Post by: John Lang on August 21, 2020, 11:44:33 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZJdZ1HszkA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZJdZ1HszkA)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 21, 2020, 11:50:19 AM
yesterday i searched every craigslist nationwide to see if someone was trying to sell my stolen bike. Today i'm calling every pawn shop within 200 miles....
Do you have a photo of your bike you can post here?
Post by: Barrieb on August 21, 2020, 02:59:38 PM
I’ve rebuilt 3 K bikes and never had this issue before, though I have seen a lot of posts across forums with the same issue.
Mine wasn’t seized into the gearbox housing, but into the swing arm bearing! So even after freeing from the housing by turning, any turning after that would not have helped as the bearing would just spin.
heat would only make it worse as the dowel/plate is very soft and expand more than the box.
Anyway it’s out and I have spare ones thankfully, so remember to lube the part that mates with the bearing as well as the rest
👍
Post by: Scott_ on August 30, 2020, 07:00:05 AM
The ABS sensor tripped me up. The ABS controller on the '95 didn't like the sensor that I pulled off the '97 with the caliper.
Ended up buying a long handle torx tool to be able to swap the rear sensors, isn't it a good day when you can add to your tool box????? 112350
Put the original back on, cleared the code and all is good.
According to BMW they made a sensor change in 03/93(I'd presume abs1 to abs2), my bikes are 06/95 and 02/97(both abs2), a good 2 years after the change... yet it appears that the '95 must still use an older sensor. I did see that the abs gap identifier tags on the bike specified different gaps.
Post by: daveson on September 21, 2020, 10:49:45 PM
Post by: TriSpark on October 13, 2020, 08:41:19 PM
Post by: natalena on December 06, 2020, 02:27:19 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 06, 2020, 07:43:51 AM
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Not too bad for 97,000 miles.
Post by: TriSpark on December 13, 2020, 07:33:51 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2021, 11:17:23 AM
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Post by: Filmcamera on January 01, 2021, 12:46:51 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-010121124351-35561134.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 15, 2021, 04:02:20 PM
January 15, 2021 A.jpg (71.41 kB . 768x498 - viewed 678 times)
Post by: ScooterNSticks on February 01, 2021, 11:19:15 AM
I'm itching to ride more. While our ERs and hospitals were filling with COVID cases I put riding on hiatus. With a compromised immune system I didn't want to make an unfortunate trip into the medical world.
A big disappointment to stop at a local cafe on my way home to pick up some croissants and brownies only to find they close now at 4pm.
I need to plan better.
Post by: Skunky on February 17, 2021, 04:56:07 AM
Post by: Chaos on February 17, 2021, 09:54:37 AM
But a week ago I was riding the K75. Without any protection on the bike I'm good down to 25F with the gear I have and electric gloves.
I don't ride the 2 wheeler if there's a chance of ice on the road, bones too old for that. But the Ural thrives, I'm good down to 5 below, and since the daughter has the car for college and the wife has a minivan I refuse to be seen in the 3 wheeler is pretty much my only way of getting around.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 17, 2021, 10:57:58 AM
I agree about the chance of ice. I dropped my RT a couple years ago at the bottom of my hill when I hit a spot where a little dribble of water from a spring froze on an otherwise dry road. Bones pretty much take care of themselves, fairings need me to get off my butt and work on them.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 18, 2021, 03:21:03 PM
Ignition Switch Whack... It's been 35,000 miles or so since the last time I cleaned it so today I went back in.
Pulled the tank back and unplugged the switch, pulled it out of the switch pad and set up a box on the tank to catch the springs that I recall dropping the last time, resulting in a couple hours of crawling around the garage floor.
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Sure enough the main contacts were burnt, requiring a couple minutes of buffing with a bit of 1200 grit and then reassembling the switch.
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Put it all back together and everything works. We'll see when I get it out again this weekend.
Post by: Laitch on March 18, 2021, 05:47:59 PM
Post by: stokester on March 18, 2021, 07:56:28 PM
Post by: TriSpark on March 20, 2021, 04:34:21 PM
1) The ignition switch on the K75s froze solid and wouldn't turn on. Luckily I was at home not stuck on the highway. It only went from Off to Park, and refused to go further round to ON. Looked online and the lock is NLA anywhere, and battered used ones are daft money on fleabay. What to do? I took it off the bike and gave it a 30 minute bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, filled with my usual mix of Yamaha carb cleaner solution, diluted 50/50 with distilled water. After that, the lock operates normally and turns to all 3 positions smoothly. I think the original factory grease had finally dried up and jammed it. I read all kinds of "how to" pieces on stripping it down to clean it and they looked daunting. Lots of springs and balls to lose! This way I just dunk the whole lock assembly in one go, have a cup of coffee, then dry it off. Treated it with water dispersant and then lock oil, and I was back on the road again.
2) Replaced the split fork gaiters that look like OEM from 1987. Yes, I got the Rancho ones recommended on here. While I had the fork legs off I replaced the fork oil as I had no idea how long it had been in there and if it had ever been changed. The 'unusual' handling problem was solved - I took out 250cc from the right leg and 150cc from the left. At least the PO had used decent fork oil and it was clean. Just not enough of it.
Post by: Supershooter on March 29, 2021, 01:21:21 PM
Supershooter
Post by: frankenduck on May 06, 2021, 10:02:14 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/DV7fbZ3.jpg)
Post by: CTDOM! on May 12, 2021, 08:13:38 AM
Here's the K post final drive rebuild shake down ride..
Post by: natalena on May 12, 2021, 10:31:34 AM
Post by: CTDOM! on May 24, 2021, 09:30:06 PM
Post by: beemuker on May 24, 2021, 09:55:14 PM
Figured I would share my shiny wheels. I needed a new front tire and 20 plus years of existence had made the old paint show its age, I repainted the wheels.looks good. I need to paint my wheels. What did you use?
Here's the K post final drive rebuild shake down ride..
Post by: CTDOM! on May 24, 2021, 09:58:44 PM
looks good. I need to paint my wheels. What did you use?
I used the VHT paint from Autozone. Came out pretty good. I first used Acetone to completely clean the wheels. The used the VHT self etching primer for 2-3 coats. Then the Silver VHT wheel paint for 3-4 coats, and lastly 2 coats of the VHT clear. The kid at Cyclegear scratched it a little when mounting the new tire but oh well.
Post by: beemuker on May 24, 2021, 10:03:26 PM
Post by: Laitch on June 29, 2021, 08:08:25 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-290621080545.jpeg)
Post by: Martin on June 29, 2021, 05:09:43 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: beemuker on June 29, 2021, 10:07:09 PM
Yeek you need to invest 99 cents in a Bucket Flap.bucket flap?
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on June 29, 2021, 10:29:35 PM
Post by: beemuker on June 30, 2021, 08:28:03 AM
Post by: Martin on June 30, 2021, 03:30:22 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: beemuker on July 01, 2021, 11:54:56 AM
You need to go to the Buckets are OZ website. We have branched out and now do a range of Ned Kelly helmet kits in a range of colours.Incredible amount of trivia to be gleaned from these posts as many of these references are foreign to me. Ned Kelley helmet, check. bucket flap, check. 1 bucket = 640 oz. check . 112350
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 01, 2021, 04:15:14 PM
We have branched out and now do a range of Ned Kelly helmet kits in a range of colours..Sepia is the traditional color, still, there is room for earbuds in them but don't count on them to be bulletproof.
Post by: Martin on July 01, 2021, 07:27:17 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on July 02, 2021, 07:05:22 AM
Post by: dbamberger on September 14, 2021, 11:56:03 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on October 03, 2021, 10:07:44 PM
Disassembled and reassembled the water/oil pump combo because it was leaking oil. After that it stopped leaking oil and started leaking coolant. I thought I'd fucked up the coolant seal but after a test ride the coolant leaking has stopped, maybe it just needed to be set in but use?
Also did my first ever valve shim job. All the exhaust valves were too tight, went from 2.50 or 2.55 to 2.45 and they're all nicely in spec. now.
Refreshed all fluids including the fork fluids (that was grungy looking stuff, surprisingly!)
Replaced drive shaft and FD with units sold to me by Volador (Thanks Golja!!) and lubed the heck out of them.
Put an LED headlight in place of the halogen that had burned out the low beam.
Took the bike for a ride and fell in love all over again.
But since I'd been riding my F650 for most of the summer, I forgot how sweet the K75 is to ride.
Post by: Laitch on October 03, 2021, 11:46:09 PM
Put an LED headlight in place of the halogen that had burned out the low beam.Which brand and model, PMP?
Post by: Past-my-Prime on October 05, 2021, 10:22:28 PM
SEALIGHT H4/9003/HB2 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulb,3200LM 25W High/Low Beam Motorbike LED Front Head Light， 6000K Xenon White
Manufacturer: SEALIGHT
Sold by: SENLITE
Return eligible through Oct. 30, 2021
CDN$ 49.99
Condition: New
What I liked: exact fit, no moving parts (no fan) and some reviews that seemed to set it above others.
What I did not like: I had to cut the rubber boot behind the light because the stem of the light is longer than the OE halogen bulb.
Now, having used it (today) I am quite impressed by the light it casts. Much brighter than the old light, and in a bluer tinge which seems to provide more detail.
What I did with my Brick today: 500 miles shakedown cruise (needed to go to another town for work, 250 miles away on 2-lane highways). Bike ran fabulously!
Post by: Laitch on October 05, 2021, 11:27:59 PM
Post by: motohippy on October 15, 2021, 04:54:52 PM
Changed out the '88 motor for a '92 with all new rubber bits.
Paid someone to clean the injectors
Replaced the oversprung and clapped out Koni rear with a Wilburs (Best. Change. Ever. Like a new bike.)
Learned that 7.5w fork oil makes my S forks happy.
Put on a Corbin seat.
Put in a 55/100W Hella headlight, and the Eastern Beaver relay kit to feed it.
Finally sprung for a new instrument circuit board.
Wore out a few sets of tires...
Post by: 2ruble on April 21, 2022, 01:26:53 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 21, 2022, 01:41:42 PM
Restore it and it will take you to the west coast and back in comfort. Cafe it and you might make it to the other side of town.
Post by: Supershooter on April 21, 2022, 01:48:33 PM
Post by: frankenduck on April 21, 2022, 03:26:01 PM
Not today, but two days ago... I drove eight hours one way and bought 93 K1100LT, lol. Now, to decide if I'm going to try and bring it back to its glorious touring state or cafe it...
WelKome
Got pics?
What is "unglorious" that needs fixin'?
Post by: Barrieb on April 30, 2022, 08:32:17 AM
I'm well impressed compared to the RS I had a few years ago:
1. I can manouvere the bike in and out of the garage - even on gravel
2. I cant even feel the vibrations i used to remember on the RS
amazing the difference higher bars make and the bike still sticks to road like glue - love it!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 23, 2022, 02:56:09 PM
The center cover seems to have suffered greatly from exposure to sunlight and crumbled when I removed it to replace the spider. I suppose I could have made some more repairs to it, but I figured it wouldn't last for one more removal, and who knows when it won't be available in the future. On the plus side, the new one seems to be slightly thicker and less flexible than the old one. The different surface finish on the part leads me to think that the production tooling may have been reworked or even replaced. While the part may be marginally stronger now, the matte surface finish isn't as nice as the old one.
Post by: Scott_ on September 02, 2022, 08:37:45 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on September 29, 2022, 11:00:08 PM
The first time I put the clutch diaphragm spring in backwards. Who does that? (This guy)
This is how you'll know it's in backwards, should you ever do it:
It all goes in very easy. Too easy!
There's no messing around getting the clutch bolts in.
The clutch plate doesn't feel very "firmly" in place. Well that SHOULD HAVE been a clue.
The transmission slides in super easy.
Of course, you're on a roll so you keep putting more pieces together until you start to think "is this right"? Then it all comes back apart once your realize your mistake.
When you do it correctly, everything is a bit harder. But now the clutch works (disengages the driveline). So time to reassemble everything from there, back.
(Also, the clutch centering tool is very handy, I found. Once i found it, of course)
Post by: Chaos on September 29, 2022, 11:24:14 PM
Post by: frankenduck on September 30, 2022, 10:33:11 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 29, 2022, 09:06:10 AM
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-291022090211.jpeg)
Note the sawtooth profile of the driveshaft socket splines, the rear drive input splines didn't look any better. I decide to replace both the driveshaft and the rear drive with a low mileage 32/11 unit I bought as a set a couple of years ago in anticipation of this. I bought it from a member here who replaced it with a paralever drive. I moved the brake disc from the old unit to the replacement by heating the final drive disc retention screws on the old drive with a Mapp torch then attacking them with a hammer-operated hand-handheld impact tool. Success was not elusive; transfer was completed.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-291022085938.jpeg)
No body parts were injured nor were there any failures of small part search-and-recovery efforts during this dance. :laughing4-giggles:
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-291022091749.jpeg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 29, 2022, 09:39:20 PM
I've been busy, too. Did an end of season oil change and replaced the steering head bearings on Moby Brick Too the other day. The bearing job was less of an ordeal than I thought it would be. Since they were the third set I've done, I may be getting good at doing the job. Once the bodywork was out of the way the bearings were out and replaced in only an hour.
Took the bike out for a short ride yesterday and tightened up the steering head when I got back. Then I went out again. It's amazing how less scary the bike's handling is at slow speed with good bearings. The front wheel doesn't flop to the inside of the turn anymore.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2023, 11:21:47 PM
It arrived yesterday and this afternoon I pulled the old one off and got the new installed. The job was pretty straightforward, I only had two glitches that slowed me down. First and worst was removing the pin that holds the lever. I was able to unscrew it, but nothing I did made it possible to pull it out. I finally had to drill a hole in the reservoir so I could drive it out with a drift. I pissed away about an hour screwing around with that pin.
The other glitch was with the brake light switch. When I installed it, the brake light was on continuously. Luckily, it only took a couple minutes to figure out that I needed to bend the lever on the switch to get the light to cancel. While I had the grip off the bars I took the opportunity to clean the crap off the bars under the throttle and rubbed some candle wax on it. Throttle snaps back really nice now.
Filled the reservoir and it only took 5 minutes to get all the air out of the piston and get a firm lever. Total time was a bit over two hours including that damn lever pin. Not bad.
Next job is to replace one of the LED driving lights that has a rapid flicker that is annoying when riding at night.
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2023, 01:30:19 AM
After cleanup, I rode down the mountain to town so I could cover everything with moist gravel-road grit. icon_cheers
Post by: Scott_ on August 12, 2023, 04:14:34 PM
I suppose some day I'll strip them down and rebuild them, with bushings and seals, but not today... now to mow the yard.