Fuel line from fuel rail to fuel pressure regulator hosed - UPDATE

[Motorhobo]

The good news is that it didn't fail on the way to NJ last week in 30F. The bad news is that the hose running from the tail end of the fuel rail to what I assume is the fuel pressure regulator is blowing fuel. So I guess this would be the link for me...

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4357.msg26774#msg26774

I've had the airbox off before, can't remember why, and I remember I couldn't get it back on without much gnashing of teeth. I think it was because I had to remove the air flow meter for some reason. That thing is a bitch to get back in right. Am I going to have to do that again or does it come out and go back in with the bottom half of the box in one piece?

Also, this is the tool I've had lying around since the throttle bodies rebuild. It says K-D NO 424 Made In USA. Will this work for the fuel line Oetiker clamps?



One more thing -- I think that is the original FPR on this bike. Has anyone had one NOT fail on them in their bike's lifespan? I don't want to have to do this job again and would consider replacing the FPR proactively. I got a Bob's gift card for Xmas and still have $100 left on it or so.

If there are any other tips or links on this topic, feel free to shoot them my way...

Happy New Year! I will be in the garage glued to the right side of the bike tomorrow all day probably.

Van

[Scott_]

You can use the Oetiker clamps if you would like but when I replaced all my fuel lines I just used regular F.I. grade band clamps so that I could remove/reuse them for service later.......

When I was working on my 1100's I found it easier to:
1st remove the filter element,
2nd remove the top half(including the tubes connected at the top of the throttle bodies)
Then I had enough room to work with the bottom of the air box.

[orforester]

Exactly what do you mean by F. I grade band clamps?  And where would one get them.  I used steel zip ties and can't really get them tight enough.

[roninvt]

Hi orforester, i belive Scott is referring to fuel injection (fi) fuel,line clamps.  You should be able to get them at an auto parts store or yer local mtc repair place

[TS87KLT]

Dis clamp is fuel injection clamp. 

FPR's do fail, they are a vacuum diaphragm and are exposed to heat, fuel, vibration...  I know a knew OEM one is about $175, but it's just a 2.5 bar FPR, a little research should turn up a much better price.

[Motorhobo]

You can use the Oetiker clamps if you would like but when I replaced all my fuel lines I just used regular F.I. grade band clamps so that I could remove/reuse them for service later.......

Dis clamp is fuel injection clamp. 

I want to use whatever does the job and is easiest -- it looks like the clamp crimp tool I have is too long to maneuver in the small space where the FPR is, so I'll look for the FI rated band clamps as per Scott and TL87KLT.

Bob's has the OEM FPR for $151 and change but if anybody knows about a non-OEM part that'll fit with the proper rating, please pass on that info here...Bob just got $280 from me for new all-round boots (old pair was 12 years old and held together with Gorilla glue) so I'm not in a hurry to give him any more money. BTW apparently feet grow with age. I now wear a 44 -- the old pair was a 43.

Van

[TS87KLT]

FPR brand new from Summit $74

 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0280160200/overview/

This is the exact replacement OEM Bosch FPR.  It will likely not have the mounting bracket, that will come off your original part.

The injection systems on these bikes are straight off the shelf parts from Bosch.  Find the Bosch part number on the item, fire up Google and save $$$.    :easy:

As others have mentioned, the FI screw clamps are more convenient, and as or more secure than Oetiker clamps.

Happy New Year!   :beer:


EDIT! 

Amazon $63.57 and free shipping!  http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280160200-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B001CO6J8U

[Motorhobo]

This is the exact replacement OEM Bosch FPR.  It will likely not have the mounting bracket, that will come off your original part.

Wow...sorry Bob! No $$$ for you today, at least not for this particular part.

Thanks for the tip..am getting my tools out and turning on the space heater in garage right now.

Van

[TS87KLT]

I'm all for supporting vendors who support my hobbies, but I just can't see paying double the going price for a common part.  If the Bobs of the world want to charge an extra 15% on the common stuff to supplement their service offering or to facilitate their efforts in providing more rare parts, I'll do that, but not double the price.  The guy selling those FPR's for $64 on Amazon is making a profit.

[orforester]

I guess I will ask the question again, where do u get the small or rather narrow clamps for the rubber boots between the throttle bodies and injector box?  I was not talking about the fpr

[TS87KLT]

Bob, try McMaster-Carr.  I've bought narrow larger diameter clamps there, I recently bought some for my Alfa 164 intake boots to replace Oetiker clamps.

[wmax351]

Bob, try McMaster-Carr.  I've bought narrow larger diameter clamps there, I recently bought some for my Alfa 164 intake boots to replace Oetiker clamps.

Mcmaster numbers
52545K89: Oetiker type, 48.3-51.5mm


5574K18: Worm type, 3/8 inch width, 40-60 mm diameter. 304 stainless band and screw. 11 bucks for 10.

54195K32: worm type, 5/16 width,43-57mm diameter, 301 stainless band, 305 stainless screw. 11 bucks for 10

[rbm]

Suzuki band clamps also fit.  They're all black, and come in two different sizes, part number 09402-48208 (48mm) and 09402-46208 (46mm).  The 48mm Suzuki band clamps can be used for the TB->bushings and bushings->air plenum connections.  I bought the ones I used from an Ebay seller for  $4.78 each.

[billday]

When I did this job I got screw clamps from MaxBMW. They look like the ones in the picture above. Not too expensive and it really helps to have the right size! They say that worm type clamps are not appropriate for the pressures of fuel injection systems.

If you're having to replace that one fuel line, I would replace all of them.

On the other hand, while it's possible for the pressure regulator to fail, have you ever heard of it happening? I would say, if it ain't broke....

[TS87KLT]

Worm clamps are fine for the air boots, just not for the fuel lines.

[orforester]

Copy on the McMasters order, did that just now, thanks.  The metal Zip ties are just not tight enough.  Even with the ratchet lightener.

Thanks

[Motorhobo]

The Arctic Vortex has passed and I finished this so here's the update. Went in from the right, no big problem, replaced the FPR to fuel rail hose with NAPA 5/8 inch FI hose, replaced the Oetiker clamps with screw-type high pressure hose clamps. I did not replace the regulator or the molded hose from the tank to the FPR since it looked fine. So total repair cost: $7. It's not a difficult job so I'll do replace the other stuff this summer.

Couple of notes -- I took the big air hose off the manifold side and left it attached to the airbox -- it was fused onto the airbox and if I ever do remove it I'll probably have to cut it off. It came off the manifold easily but you need a long, thin flathead screwdriver to get at the clamp from the top.

BTW when I did get the airbox off I found tons of road debris and a tank grommet I remember spending an hour looking for back in 1999. I half expected a blonde in a pink bikini to come out in a puff of smoke and start calling me 'Master', but for better or worse that didn't happen.



Here's something I got for Xmas I think every brick owner should have -- it's the perfect adjustable position-lighting solution.



http://www.lowes.com/pd_498288-34170-63453_4294671609__?productId=50069779

Also, bungees suck for strapping parts out of the way while working -- these things are absolutely awesome. They're like big twist-ties, dirt cheap at HD or Lowes. No more searching for a place to hook the bungee or having it be too tight or too loose. Very cool.



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nite-Ize-12-in-Rubber-Reusable-Twist-Tie-Black-2-Pack-GT12-2PK-01/203210641#

Biggest PITA with this job is as always getting hte &%#^ third retaining clip back on the airbox. Can't see, can't get a light in there, can't get fingers in there, plus one of the tabs that hold the tangs on the clip appears to be broken off on my machine which doesn't help. It ended up going back on with the aid of some very long HF needlenoses and lots of cursing. If anyone knows the easy way, please tell me about it.

Back on the road yesterday, 37 deg F...refreshing!

Van

[keith g]

you can also use the metal clamps used on CV boots........bit fiddly,but do the job

[rbm]

Biggest PITA with this job is as always getting hte &%#^ third retaining clip back on the airbox.

I use a pair of 11" long reach needle nose pliers, like these from HF:

[Motorhobo]

I use a pair of 11" long reach needle nose pliers, like these from HF:

That's what I used too after grappling with it with my fingers and shorter needlenoses for a while. For me, though, it was more complicated by the air flow meter cable which was in the way. I think I must've routed that cable wrong when I reinstalled the airbox ages ago, so...anybody who takes the air flow meter off for any reason, make sure you put the cable back so it doesn't get in the way of the clip.

V

[TS87KLT]

I'm gonna guess the hobo actually replaced his fuel lines with 5/16 line...   :oldguy:  5/8 is a bit hard to get to seal!   :yes

[Motorhobo]

It's what they had at NAPA and no leaks so far. Someone in this thread said either that or the metric, so I went with the 5/8 rather than drive 20 mi. Ain't much here in this tiny town... you get what they give you and make it work.

I intend to replace all the lines this spring anyway, including the molded one from the FPR to the tank, so maybe I'll swap that one out with metric while I'm at it.

[keith g]

Motorhobo.......i had the same problem with debris on top of the engine......looked at other bikes,and they had what looked like a mudflap fitted to the bottom of the rad shroud.....i used a cheap thin rubber doormat,cut to fit fully across the bottom of the rad shroud and about 6 inches deepheld on with screws and washers to the shroud,i curled mine up onto the front of the engine cases......it's working great...!!!

[milq]

Suzuki band clamps also fit.  They're all black, and come in two different sizes, part number 09402-48208 (48mm) and 09402-46208 (46mm).  The 48mm Suzuki band clamps can be used for the TB->bushings and bushings->air plenum connections.  I bought the ones I used from an Ebay seller for  $4.78 each.

This is the kind of info we all hang around for!