My very long term K 120rs Project

[Freelancer]

Hey guys,

Don't know if this is the right forum for this but here goes.


This will be at least a 3-4 year project(most likely 5 years) due to schedule, finances and workshop availability.

I'm looking to graft a 1200rs motor into a 91-92 K100rs frame. Features I'm looking to include:

91 fairing or a sprint fairing with simple custom paint
Paraleveler 5spd transmission(professionally rebuilt).
Custom geared final drive(32/12 for a 1:2.67 ratio).
1100rs rims powder coated
EBC Discs and pads
Not sure about front forks(May go with oem with progressive springs or may graft a high end aftermarket(Will probably go factory to save on money and time.
Either a ram or yss rear shock
Custom lights????Not sure which route I'm going????
91-92 100rs wiring harness(trimmed down)
Motronic 2.1 with custom eprom
Custom ceramic coated exhaust
Custom airbox
Custom billet Foot Pegs & Plates
NO abs!!!
Weight reduction measures without sacrificing old school look or durabilaty(hoping for 520 pounds or less) This will include a 1200rs or custom aftermarket instrument cluster, the old one is a friggen brick.
Krauser K2 tragkorbs

If any one has advise other than dont do it, pls post your thoughts.

I will post everytime I get another part or complete another step toward finishing the project. I may also go months without posting so pls be fore- warned. I'm not Duck or any of the other speedy project guys here. Chances are that many of you could do this project faster.

Later,
Freelancer

[frankenduck]

Me, speedy?  :lol:  It took me a year and a half to "finish" my K75.


A few thoughts:

Why rebuild the transmission? Is there something wrong with it?

K100RS4Vs already have the same wheels as a K1100RS.

The factory springs are progressively wound. (If you're looking to upgrade the springs then you might want to consider Works Performance springs.)

If you're getting rid of the ABS then the easiest way to "trim down" the wiring harness might be to start with a good used one from a non-ABS K100RS4V.

Why build a custom airbox?  Cosmetic reasons? The OEM filter does a very good job and is way over-sized for these engines so it is not a performance limiting factor.

[frankenduck]

And if you're going non-ABS and trying to save weight  then you can probably get by with a smaller, lighter battery. (Or go lithium-ion.)

[wmax351]

I'm not going to say "don't do it" but I will ask "Why?"

What is your goal? What do you want to end up with? You may be better off with keeping the frame from the 1200, and going from there. 

Custom final drive will not work. That would be insane machining, which would not work as well as stock. Reliability would suck, and a rough guess would be that it would cost $2000-5000+ to have it made.

You can choose from the available ratios. 3.2 --> 2.54. More info here: http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/

If you are going to all this trouble and money, just get a megasquirt system or a Motec, and have it dyno tuned. Dump the motronic, it is old and restricted. Even with a custom Rom, it is not as flexible or capable as a modern fuel controller. You will be tuning in assembly and raw hex values. I have a bluetooth link on my megasquirt 2 for my K75. I datalog with my android phone, and can make most tuning adjustments straight from there. I can take the datalogs which are automatically sent to my email or an online storage location, and use free or inexpensive (30 bucks for the full version) software to analyze them to properly tune the Volumetric Efficiency map. I then send it to the megasquirt via bluetooth with my laptop. I can also strap the laptop to the bike or in the tragkorb, and the laptop tunes it as I drive with a 50 dollar piece of software. The whole setup, including software, cost me about 350 dollars.

[argent brick]

My question is what do you have when you are done? I could see putting a Paralever backside on a K75 or 100. Or a front end from a 1100 on a 75.

The K1100 is a great bike.  Other that a few more horses, what more do you get from a 1200?

[wmax351]

My question is what do you have when you are done? I could see putting a Paralever backside on a K75 or 100. Or a front end from a 1100 on a 75.

The K1100 is a great bike.  Other that a few more horses, what more do you get from a 1200?

Or take an 1100, and add a turbo. Far more horses than a 1200. Cheaper than all the other stuff you are planning. Put a low ratio final drive on it, and it will go 180 mph.

[Freelancer]

A few thoughts:

Why rebuild the transmission? Is there something wrong with it?

K100RS4Vs already have the same wheels as a K1100RS.

The factory springs are progressively wound. (If you're looking to upgrade the springs then you might want to consider Works Performance springs.)

If you're getting rid of the ABS then the easiest way to "trim down" the wiring harness might be to start with a good used one from a non-ABS K100RS4V.

Why build a custom airbox?  Cosmetic reasons? The OEM filter does a very good job and is way over-sized for these engines so it is not a performance limiting factor.

1)The tranny is most likely going to be a used one with 70k miles on it and has some signs of use. If I'm giong to the effort of building the bike then might as well make sure that the tranny is fresh. Also, feel it would be a good idea due to the higher HP of the motor.
One of my concerns is will the stock clutch be enough or will I have to find a very expensive after market one.

2)The comment on the wheels was due to my not having a parts bike yet and wanting to be clear as to the wheel sizes. I may end up starting with just a frame so I was just being thourough.

3)Thanks on the works performance recommendation front spring recommendation. :2thumbup:

4)Good idea on the wiring harness. Still will be looking for ways to trim other stuff off.....maybe the bulb monitoring service and shortening the primary ecu connector. Hmm, the last one would be to much work with to little gain but you get the idea. A clean-up of sorts.

5)I have 4 reasons for the custom airbox:
A)Heat management. a)Either reshaped to help direct the air off of the radiator or b)remove airbox from inside the frame, move electric box & battery and then rework inner rear fender to create air passage to pass the heat straight through to the low pressure area at the back of the bike.
B)Custom look that if done right will compliment the bike
C)Weight and space savings
and
D)Hopefully easier air filter changes. :yes :2thumbup:

And if you're going non-ABS and trying to save weight  then you can probably get by with a smaller, lighter battery. (Or go lithium-ion.)

Good idea, thanks Duck

I'm not going to say "don't do it" but I will ask "Why?"

What is your goal? What do you want to end up with? You may be better off with keeping the frame from the 1200, and going from there. 

Custom final drive will not work. That would be insane machining, which would not work as well as stock. Reliability would suck, and a rough guess would be that it would cost $2000-5000+ to have it made.

You can choose from the available ratios. 3.2 --> 2.54. More info here: http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/

If you are going to all this trouble and money, just get a megasquirt system or a Motec, and have it dyno tuned. Dump the motronic, it is old and restricted. Even with a custom Rom, it is not as flexible or capable as a modern fuel controller. You will be tuning in assembly and raw hex values. I have a bluetooth link on my megasquirt 2 for my K75. I datalog with my android phone, and can make most tuning adjustments straight from there. I can take the datalogs which are automatically sent to my email or an online storage location, and use free or inexpensive (30 bucks for the full version) software to analyze them to properly tune the Volumetric Efficiency map. I then send it to the megasquirt via bluetooth with my laptop. I can also strap the laptop to the bike or in the tragkorb, and the laptop tunes it as I drive with a 50 dollar piece of software. The whole setup, including software, cost me about 350 dollars.

1)Why? .....I guess it is because I have in my mind several concepts of what would be ideal bikes for me, personally. The manufacturers are good at making bikes for the masses but in doing so make choices or compromises that lead to things that I would like to modify/change.

On the whole, I love the 91-92 K100rs. I love the classic brick look, durability, relatively light maintenance schedule, that it is a dry clutch, its shaft drive and riding position.
I don't like the voluntarilly detuned 100hp, ABS, heat issues, and changing the air filter.
Little annoyances that could be improved are the single dry clutch's tendency to for grabby engagement, the shift from first to second and the 600lb+ wet weight(Honestly, getting down to 550-ish fully loaded would be great).

2)As to keeping the 1200's frame or just getting one and starting from there?
A)Don't like the look as much. If I wanted a racer boy look I'd go with a Honda or Yamaha.
B)I love the look of both the 91-92 K100rs and the 93-96 K1100rs. My current bike will eventually run 1100rs lowers so the project is going to get the old school classic K look.

My plan to use the 1200 motor was to get the extra HP and Torque. I admit that I might end up using an 1100 motor if it is easier to get the desired 130+HP and 80-ish Ft/pd of torque but it depends.
The question of which one for me hinges on a couple of factors:
A)Old 1100 motors are getting harder to find 
B)Rumored reliability issues with the 1200
C)Which one gets me closest to the power figures mentioned while keeping the bike light and with the least engine modifications.

3)Thanks for the info on the Final drives. I was not aware that there was a 2.62 and a 2.54 that could be installed in parraleveler final. That is perfect for what I'm thinking of.

4)I was not aware of the Motech or Megasquirt systems. They sound great and if they are rock solid reliable they could solve another problem I have. Finding early motronic 2.1's in working order is getting difficult.
Please tell me more about these aftermarket fuel control systems.
How reliable are they?
Can they be set up to be switchable between multiple maps without having to stop and reprogram?
How Stable are the settings?(Do you have to constantly tinker or can you set and forget?)
How hard are they to install?(Do you need a degree from MMI or MIT or are they simpler and forgiving to those who are not on the cutting edge of computers?)
Do they follow the K.I.S.S. principal to some degree?(I know, KISS would dictate not doing any of this :dunno guess I'm sometimes contradictory :laugh)

My question is what do you have when you are done? I could see putting a Paralever backside on a K75 or 100. Or a front end from a 1100 on a 75.

The K1100 is a great bike.  Other that a few more horses, what more do you get from a 1200?

My best description as to what I would have?

A K1100rs with the power of a 1200rs and the look of a classic K. Plus, maybe relieve the heat issue a bit and make air cleaner changes easier. :2thumbup: 

Or take an 1100, and add a turbo. Far more horses than a 1200. Cheaper than all the other stuff you are planning. Put a low ratio final drive on it, and it will go 180 mph.

No turbos. Thet are fine on deisel cars and trucks, but I hate the power delivery when on a bike. I mean there is plenty of power, it is "how" it comes on. You ever goose a turbo bike just a bit too much on exiting a curve?

Really, the 130-ish ponies and a top speed of 160-ish will be plenty as long as the 0-60 stays at 3.9 or less and the 1/4 mile stays in the 11.2 or better.


Thanks for the feed back guys, please keep the info coming.
Freelancer

[frankenduck]

If you go for a dual turbo set-up then the boost won't be so harsh.

(Just kidding.)

[Freelancer]

If you go for a dual turbo set-up then the boost won't be so harsh.

(Just kidding.)

 :lol: Why do I get the feeling that you've had the oportunity of taking a ride on one to the 1980's touchy turbo's.

If such is correct, "Then which bike(s)?". Gpz? Luftmeister or perhaps a Mr.Turbo custom?? :yow :yes


Seriuosly, I know that the Turbos have improved somewhat over the years but my preference on streetbikes will always be for naturally aspirated(Until the gov't forces us to electric or takes away our right to ride).

Later,
Freelancer

[wmax351]

Motec is a racing ecu company. They sell high end, aerospace grade stuff. Expensive, and harder to tune than the megasquirt.

I'm running Megaquirt on my k75. works well so far. If you want set and forget, ms3 may work best, or the ms3pro system. microsquirt is smaller, but the same as ms2, which works well, without some unneeded features for most cases.



The megasquirt systems are fairly easy to set up. The megasquirt systems are well documented and user friendly.

Motec is aimed at professional racers. My berkeley formula sae team runs a motec m400, with a datalogger. the ecu was about 700 dollars, if i recall, and the datalogger was 3-4000.

You would probably want to have someone dyno tune it. Best power that way.

What do you want switchable maps for? To a large extent, that is an outdated carbuerator school of thought. A well set up fuel map will be both efficient and powerful.

If you wanted different maps for different fuels, that is possible. The megasquirt systems can run spark control too, and the maps are also switchable. It supports knock detection as well. You could have one map for Regular, and one for premium, or one for premium, and one for race gas. or even e85.

How do you plan to get more power. People have tried to hop up k bikes, and there really isnt much to do. The 4 valves are better, but not that much. You could probably deck the head a bit, for some more compression. Upgrade the valve train, and raise the rev limit. Port the heads, possibly bigger valves. However, some of those will cause a loss of power in other parts the rpm range. One of the exhausts for the k75 added 1 or 2 hp at redline, but caused a big drop throughout the range.

[argent brick]

"My best description as to what I would have?  A K1100rs with the power of a 1200rs and the look of a classic K. Plus, maybe relieve the heat issue a bit and make air cleaner changes easier. "


Seems like a lot of work to me. Personally, I think that a nicely tricked out K1100 would work just fine, but that's just me. No matter what direction you take this project, please post fellow lots of pictures and comments about it. We all can learn something from this.

[rbm]

Interesting project FL.  You're sure to learn alot about the K-bike genre by the time you've completed the project.  As for alternative fuel management systems like Megasquirt, are you aware of the work being done by Oldracer and performance parts available through his related company, BSK SpeedWorks?  They produce a complete engine management system for K100/K1100/K1200 engines that replaces the stock ignition and fuel management system as well as simplifying the interconnects.

[wmax351]

Interesting project FL.  You're sure to learn alot about the K-bike genre by the time you've completed the project.  As for alternative fuel management systems like Megasquirt, are you aware of the work being done by Oldracer and performance parts available through his related company, BSK SpeedWorks?  They produce a complete engine management system for K100/K1100/K1200 engines that replaces the stock ignition and fuel management system as well as simplifying the interconnects.

That would work well, although more expensive. The tuning software is trickier to use without a dyno, but should work well.

[Freelancer]

I'm running Megaquirt on my k75. works well so far. If you want set and forget, ms3 may work best, or the ms3pro system. microsquirt is smaller, but the same as ms2, which works well, without some unneeded features for most cases.
*snip*
The megasquirt systems are fairly easy to set up. The megasquirt systems are well documented and user friendly.
*snip*

What do you want switchable maps for? To a large extent, that is an outdated carbuerator school of thought. A well set up fuel map will be both efficient and powerful.

If you wanted different maps for different fuels, that is possible. The megasquirt systems can run spark control too, and the maps are also switchable. It supports knock detection as well. You could have one map for Regular, and one for premium, or one for premium, and one for race gas. or even e85.

How do you plan to get more power. People have tried to hop up k bikes, and there really isnt much to do. The 4 valves are better, but not that much. You could probably deck the head a bit, for some more compression. Upgrade the valve train, and raise the rev limit. Port the heads, possibly bigger valves. However, some of those will cause a loss of power in other parts the rpm range. One of the exhausts for the k75 added 1 or 2 hp at redline, but caused a big drop throughout the range.

Hey wmax351,

A)Thanks for the info on the two systems. For several reasons I will probably follow in your foot steps with the megasquirt system. First reason is because you have already done a lot of work and I see no need to re-invent the wheel here,..The second reason is that you are telling me that it is the least difficult option,... and the final reason is, as you pointed out, cost.

If during this time of the project, our business grows faster than expected then I might go with BSK Speedworks for both the ignition and for the headwork.

B)The switchable fuel maps was for Fully loaded to capacity touring mode, a sportier solo riding mode and(with the way things are going) an emissions test mode.
Hmmm.., I like the Idea of switchable fuel mode. Thanks

and
C) The guys at BSK speed works seem to be able to get the extra power.

This is one thing that I've never understood. The "Motor can't be hopped up" mantra that goes through the K bike community.
1) BMW admits that they detuned the motor
2)Any motor can be hopped up (Its more of a question of, "Does the cost matches the gain?".)
3)The fact that the bike responded to luftmiester and Mr Turbo turbo-boosting tells us that the bike has potential.

The real limiting factor over the years has been that there was never considered to be enough of a market for after-market manufacturers to develope parts for the K bikes.
Now that BSK is turning out Aftermarket ECU's, custom grind camshafts and are gas flowing the heads for dramatic volume improvements, people will be able to hop-up their K bikes. It'll still cost a small fortune but it can be done. :2thumbup: :laugh 

Seems like a lot of work to me. Personally, I think that a nicely tricked out K1100 would work just fine, but that's just me. No matter what direction you take this project, please post fellow lots of pictures and comments about it. We all can learn something from this.

I will do my best to keep a journal of what I get, how my plans evolve and of any discoveries as I progress.

Interesting project FL.  You're sure to learn alot about the K-bike genre by the time you've completed the project.  As for alternative fuel management systems like Megasquirt, are you aware of the work being done by Oldracer and performance parts available through his related company, BSK SpeedWorks?  They produce a complete engine management system for K100/K1100/K1200 engines that replaces the stock ignition and fuel management system as well as simplifying the interconnects.

Thank you very much for the info and link. Looks like I won't have to re-invent the wheel as much as I feared (If I can come up with the cash. :lol:).


Hey guys, again thanks for the info. You have provided me with some great ideas and answers to some of the biggest stumbling blocks that I was worried about.

Freelancer

[frankenduck]

The real limiting factor over the years has been that there was never considered to be enough of a market for after-market manufacturers to develope parts for the K bikes.

Not necessarily true, especially for the K1000RS4V. Back in the day, there were at least two aftermarket chips available for the K100RS4V that I know of.  One was made to be run with a Staintune exhaust (I think the chip was made by Staintune) and the other was made by a company callled Harmann IIRC. However, I tried both of them on my K100RS4V that had a Staintune and neither one registered much of a gain, if any, on the old butt-dyno.

As for the K1100, some K1100-based Grinnall Scorpions had a  "hopped up" chip that put out something like 110 or 115 hp.  Not sure who made it.

Here's a German chip for the K1100 the puts out 110 hp: http://www.hs-elektronik.com/datenblatt-e/bmwmotorradk1100rslt.html

There used to be another company that put out a K1100 chip.  Don't recall the exact name but I think it had the word star in it.

These bikes went out of production a long time ago so there isn't a lot of incentive for companies to currently develop or market mods for them.

[wmax351]

One of the things with performance is that it often comes at the cost of driveability. The nice thing about these bikes is the smooth low range torque all the way up to a sensible redline. Much of this comes from the mild cams and small valves, as well as the relatively long stroke. This is due to the induction of swirl in the airflow through the engine, improving fuel/air mixing. The smaller valves and intake ports increase the speed of the incoming air, facilitating this swirl. This is what provides such a nice low rpm pull. The short duration, low overlap cams also are designed for low rpm.

When you use bigger valves, or more valves (excepting variable valve timing/opening IE: Honda's VTEC) or a more aggressive cam, the engine is not as efficient at combustion at lower rpm, but more air can flow, allowing a greater peak horsepower figure. An easy way to see the effect of this is to listen to a race motor idle. They usually idle very fast and unsteadily at that.

With the early K100 "European" cams, which were slightly more aggressive than the US emissions cams, the engine provided a few extra horsepower, but people preferred the US cams due to their improved drive-ability and low end torque. In some cases, European customers would buy a cam from the US model, and install it on their bikes.

One of the things with K bikes is that the power restriction is in the engine itself. They are de-tuned by design, for better manners. The K75 has peak torque of 50 ft-pounds at 6000 rpm, and peak power of 75 hp at 8500 rpm. That corresponds to almost 60 horsepower at 6000 rpm. You can run the engine faster, but it doesn't help with anything but top speed: the power drops significantly after the redline due to intake valve restriction. Even without valvetrain upgrades, the K75 should be able to hit 10,000 rpm without valve float, and with some valve work, the turbos hit 12k.

The one place where power can really be generated is with spark advance. Its trickier to tune, and a steady state dyno with someone who knows what they are doing is usually required for a really dialed in map. You can do it on your own, looking for as much advance as you can get without knock, but the dyno time would be a good investment on that.

The things you can do to the engine would include:

Larger valves-
Intake porting/polishing
Decking the head/block for higher compression
High compression pistons
Working on the combustion chamber geometry for better combustion and less tendency to knock (for example, having squish band work done) +
Blueprinting of the engine (making sure all the masses of components and such are tighter than factory tolerance) for better balance
Get an aggressive cam -
Free flowing exhaust - (Fart cans are anti-social, and don't belong on a BMW  :nono )


Things in the above list that will likely have some tradeoffs with regards to midrange performance are marked with a "-" and ones that improve midrange are marked with a "+."

For the fuel modes, they are easily switchable with a computer or smartphone. I wouldn't worry about emissions testing, as you are in Texas, and you are running a bike that is older anyhow, and will be titled as an early 90's bike. It wouldn't pass emissions visual inspection anyhow, as it is re-engined, and missing some of the EPA required components for the newer engine. Even California, they only have plans to restrict aftermarket exhausts on newer bikes to ones which meet the sound requirements out of the annoyance factor from the squids and hardly ablesome crowd. I actually support controlling the loud pipes, as it makes motorcycles appear as a nuisance (and the asshat who rides by my apartment in Berkeley at 5:30 am at WOT with drag pipes on his sportster several days a week)

The best set of fuel/ignition tables would be based on fuel availability, as touring does not always provide the highest quality gas. The fueling is based on load (manifold vacuum)  and RPM, so at low load, even in sporty riding mode, a leaner mixture (usually stoichiometric: 14.7:1) than peak power (~13:1) is fine, if not preferable. I attached the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) table I am using at the moment on my K75. It pulls well from 2000 rpm to redline. I will be leaning out the mid load (40-70 kpa) area a bit more as I get the tune dialed in.


This should be an interesting project. And the answer to "Why? " is a classic enjoyed by my engineering friends (I'm the only pre-med, public health major on the racing team at Berkeley).


Why?
Because Racecar. Or in this case, bike.

[frankenduck]

There's a long time MC wrench up here in my neck of the woods who tells me he's decked/ported 2 K75s in the past and gotten them from 74 up to 90 hp on a dyno.  He's currently building a K75 GS.

[wmax351]

There's a long time MC wrench up here in my neck of the woods who tells me he's decked/ported 2 K75s in the past and gotten them from 74 up to 90 hp on a dyno.  He's currently building a K75 GS.

Definitely believe that, if thats an engine dyno. At the wheel, k75 only puts out 55 or so. Anything that improves the high rpm flow will allow it run more efficiently at high rpms and provide more power past the Redline.

http://www.eilenberger.net/k75exhaust/index.html

At some point I may pick up a cheap K75 motor, and do some work on it for fun. Like the idea of bumping the compression a bit and improving intake and combustion chamber geometry.

[frogy]

I know the K100 breathes well,but I'm with ya on getting rid of that massive air box.Id like to hook the air flow meter directly to a K/N air filter but the end of the meter is square and K&Ns are round. :dunno

[Freelancer]

Hey guys,

I know, I know,... it has been a while.

Just dropping a line to let you guys know that the projekt is still on and that I am still kicking, despite a recent trip to the highway petting zoo. Kept the bike upright with only minor damage to both the bike and myself.
 The doe hobbled off into the woods after knocking the paint off of my front fender and leaving a buncb of hair where my fairing split.

Anyway, back to the projekt. I have amassed quite the collection of parts and will soon be buying the frame and motor. When the frame arrives, I'll hang the sanded and base coated body pieces on in order to mask off for the tri colour pattern I've designed.
Then those freshly painted body pieces will go onto my bruised girl and the damaged ones will be set aside for repairs and possible use on the K120rs projekt.

This will all take money and time, so please be patient. This is why I set the slow multi- year time-frame.

Before I run off and buy more parts, I'd like you guys opinion. Should I use the old motronic 2.1 with a performance eprom, the 1200's motronic 2.4 or with an after market set-up like
wmax351 suggests?
Also any cost vs performance comparisons would be helpful.

If anyone has hooked up a 1200 motor to one of the older injection systems, please let us know how well it worked both in terms of power and drivability. Also what modifications were needed to make it run.

Any input appreciated,
Freelancer

P.S. Will post a ride report and pictures of my trip to the petting zoo in the proper forum sometime soon.
Will take and post pictures of projekt bike once motor and frame are purchased.

Cheers

[Brad-Man]

I personally would go w/MicroSquirt (MegaSquirt shrunk down for compactness and weight savings).

Much more programmable....

[Brad-Man]

I personally would go w/MicroSquirt (MegaSquirt shrunk down for compactness and weight savings).

Much more programmable....

[wmax351]

I personally would go w/MicroSquirt (MegaSquirt shrunk down for compactness and weight savings).

Much more programmable....

I would say so also. Much easier to work with.

[Freelancer]

I personally would go w/MicroSquirt (MegaSquirt shrunk down for compactness and weight savings).

Much more programmable....

I would say so also. Much easier to work with.

I am still looking at all of the options from:
A) Retrofitting an L-Jetronic (Because some say that once you know what to do that they can be tuned as easily as CV carburetors)
to
B) Kustom eproms(For ease of not having to butcher the harness),
to
C) Installing the K1200rs harness so that I can also use the instrument cluster
to
D)Installing a Megasquirt/Microsquirt system.

@wmax351- A couple of quick questions about the megasquirt/microsquirt.
1)How are those fuel curves progressing?
2)Do you have the system dialed in to where you can forget about it?
3)If I run one of these and ditch the old motronic, "How much of a project is it too integrate with the rest of the wiring harness?" or in your opinion "Will it be simpler to build a whole new harness from scratch?"

Oh yeah, one last thing. Looking for any tips on how to deal with the 4V tendency for hotspots in the head. I'll be using an older 2V radiator and (if possible) water pump. Are there any other tips you recommend.

Thanks,
Freelancer

[wmax351]

I personally would go w/MicroSquirt (MegaSquirt shrunk down for compactness and weight savings).

Much more programmable....

I would say so also. Much easier to work with.

I am still looking at all of the options from:
A) Retrofitting an L-Jetronic (Because some say that once you know what to do that they can be tuned as easily as CV carburetors)
to
B) Kustom eproms(For ease of not having to butcher the harness),
to
C) Installing the K1200rs harness so that I can also use the instrument cluster
to
D)Installing a Megasquirt/Microsquirt system.

@wmax351- A couple of quick questions about the megasquirt/microsquirt.
1)How are those fuel curves progressing?
2)Do you have the system dialed in to where you can forget about it?
3)If I run one of these and ditch the old motronic, "How much of a project is it too integrate with the rest of the wiring harness?" or in your opinion "Will it be simpler to build a whole new harness from scratch?"

Oh yeah, one last thing. Looking for any tips on how to deal with the 4V tendency for hotspots in the head. I'll be using an older 2V radiator and (if possible) water pump. Are there any other tips you recommend.

Thanks,
Freelancer

@wmax351- A couple of quick questions about the megasquirt/microsquirt.1)How are those fuel curves progressing?


They are pretty good. Getting nice stable AFR, good mileage, and good performance. Still tweaking some lower range stuff, like off idle. I think I will need to add some acceleration enrichment, but for now, I haven't.
2)Do you have the system dialed in to where you can forget about it?
Yes. Give it a tiny bit of throttle, and it fires right up. Runs well from cold start to hot.
3)If I run one of these and ditch the old motronic, "How much of a project is it too integrate with the rest of the wiring harness?" or in your opinion "Will it be simpler to build a whole new harness from scratch?"


There really isn't much worth integrating. Definitely easier to build the whole harness than it is to deal with connectors. 2 connection points to the old harness: the coolant temp sensor, and tap the negative coil terminal. You bike would need ignition control, which would require a modification of the timing vane wheel, and connection to the hall sensor. Modifications could be done with a dremel and careful layout, which is what I plan to do at some future time on mine. Oh yeah, one last thing. Looking for any tips on how to deal with the 4V tendency for hotspots in the head. I'll be using an older 2V radiator and (if possible) water pump. Are there any other tips you recommend.

Not sure about this. Hot-spots are usually a product of engineering, not by flow or cooling. Where are these tendencies reported?


L Jet is terrible. It works, was great in the 70's, and was better than carbs. [size=78%]http://demo.cs.brandeis.edu/postscript.dump/Ltronic/mods.html[/size]


Eeprom wise, you would need a full tune, since you are screwing with stuff. Dyno time is 120 an hour, at least. Megasquirt is easily gotten to be close, with regard to a VE table, and final optimization of spark is pretty quick on a dyno.