Recent Posts

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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Filmcamera on Today at 03:31:03 PM »
Ah ok, I just checked and it remains firm, no creeping back to the bar - unlike me on some Friday nights...
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Martin on Today at 03:19:21 PM »
Second question was, if continuous pressure is applied to the lever does the lever remain firm or does it slowly creep back to the bar?

Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Filmcamera on Today at 03:15:12 PM »
The lever is firm and yes it applies pressure if pulled back slowly towards the bars.



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My K100RS 16V came with a K&N air filter.  When I took the airbox apart I found fine dust coating the inside.  Never found it with the OEM filters on my other bikes.

Immediately binned the K&N for a Mahle LX75 which cost $25 from Amazon.  The filters on these bikes should be good for at least 100,000 miles which is what the EPA regulations for emissions and fuel economy have required since the mid 1980's.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Brakes sticking
« Last post by Martin on Today at 02:55:02 PM »
Is the lever firm or spongy? Does the lever if pressure is applied slowly pull back towards the handlebar?
Regards Martin.
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: FS or Trade - Type 1 Hard Cases
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 02:08:23 PM »
I am skeptical as well but would like to hear other views on the subject.
My K75 had one when I bought it. I gave it a through cleaning but I have also read the OEM filters are good for a good long while. Thinking of changing out to original.
My experience tells me that OEM filters have excellent air flow, are easy to shake out to clean, and last for tens of thousands of miles. Their composition is a design-element of the bike. I ride a lot of miles on maintained gravel roads. The bike runs well all season. I don't need more than that. I tap the bike's filter a few times on the shop floor at the end of riding season. There's a small pile of sand and debris there when I'm finished. The process takes about ten minutes with a naked bike, including introspection. :giggles
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I would be interested in hearing your reservations about K&N filters. I am skeptical as well but would like to hear other views on the subject.
My K75 had one when I bought it. I gave it a through cleaning but I have also read the OEM filters are good for a good long while. Thinking of changing out to original.
This is my opinion only, there are lots of others on the web. I do not wish to create a pro-con thread on K&N, there are plenty out there.

The advantage of the K&N air filter is advertised as two-fold, never buy another and increased performance.

In addition to advice from others much more experienced than me such as Rob Fleischer (Snowbum http://bmwmotorcycletech.info ), my work at a Chevy dealership taught me that replacing an OEM paper filter is false economy.  While there were a number of instances where over-oiling the filter caused MAF problems there were also issues where the change in airflow caused a CEL which we would not diagnose without an OEM filter which frequently cleared the problem. Today's engines are engineered with many components, change the characteristic of one and you upset the balance.  Our engines are not so complex and many others have opined that the OEM air filter is more than adequate for the job for an extended amount of time.

There are many who have used these for years with no discernible problem but I always question that the increased airflow=performance  formula equals more dirt in my engine.  Anecdotal info for me was from a friend who runs a beef farm and maintains all his vehicles along with sending oil samples away for analysis.  The one engine he used a K&N had a significant increase in oil contamination causing him to return to the OEM paper filter.

As with many opinions you will have to decide which you choose to believe and follow, after all it's your motorcycle.  For me, as with most non-OEM substitutes, is it worth a few dollars saved over the long run?
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Oil leaking on Exhaust
« Last post by Grant on Today at 01:45:48 PM »
Thank you for the great advice, I will post some photos this afternoon and be sure to follow up when I discover where the problem is.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Oil leaking on Exhaust
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 01:41:32 PM »
It appears that the leak originates somewhere above the gear shifter on top of the transmission? What I can't understand is why it would start leaking without anything being disturbed?
My experience is that oil has leaked wherever it can given enough time and a favorable conditions for exit—compromised seals or boots coupled with heat, pressure or gravity. Follow stokester's advice and follow the site's guidance on posting photos so we can see what's going on where. Move forward with disassembly; leak sources are likely to be revealed during the process.

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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: FS or Trade - Type 1 Hard Cases
« Last post by gph67 on Today at 01:34:34 PM »
I would be interested in hearing your reservations about K&N filters. I am skeptical as well but would like to hear other views on the subject.
My K75 had one when I bought it. I gave it a through cleaning but I have also read the OEM filters are good for a good long while. Thinking of changing out to original.
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