Post by: gazman on February 14, 2015, 08:33:43 PM
Post by: WayneDW on February 14, 2015, 08:45:56 PM
Post by: johnny on February 14, 2015, 09:05:17 PM
lotts of motobrikers use a hand vac... some use a power vac... i have a hand operated brake vac... butts since their aint much fluid in there i do it the old way...
11mm on the nipple... clear vinyl tube on the nipple cinched down with a ziptie... other end through a hole in a coke bottle cap...
front abs... take it slow... open nipple... slowly pull in lever... slowly slowly slowly... tighten nipple and release lever... repeat till fluid runs clear... keep the master full... then the left caliper... then the right caliper... and before buttoning it up... the left caliper again...
rear abs... take it slow... open nipple... slowly push down pedal... slowly slowly slowly... tighten nipple and release pedal... repeat till fluid runs clear... keep the master full... then the caliper...
will take a half an hour... should end up with a half full coke bottle of nasty fluid and an empty new brake fluid bottle...
slow slow slow is the key... the front will choot out fluid if you donts go slow...
j o
Post by: gazman on February 14, 2015, 10:03:20 PM
Post by: gazman on February 15, 2015, 12:27:50 AM
Post by: gazman on February 15, 2015, 12:41:49 AM
Post by: gazman on February 15, 2015, 07:04:55 AM
Post by: johnthehedger on February 17, 2015, 03:17:27 PM
Post by: johnny on February 17, 2015, 03:24:49 PM
j o
Post by: johnthehedger on February 18, 2015, 12:34:23 PM
Post by: bilgolabeach on February 09, 2018, 05:46:52 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 09, 2018, 10:39:34 AM
Hi. Just wanting to bleed the brakes on my Aussie supplied Ex Police 1999 K1100R/T. All the above is good, but the RH front caliper has some weird sort of bleed nipple that involves a big cylindrical alloy block with a grub screw in it. If I remove the grub screw and pull the lever, no fluid comes out. The ally block doesn't want to be unscrewed. Can anyone tell me how to deal with this?Post a photo of the offending part.
Post by: Inge K. on February 09, 2018, 11:27:30 AM
the RH front caliper has some weird sort of bleed nipple that involves a big cylindrical alloy block with a grub screw in it. If I remove the grub screw and pull the lever, no fluid comes out.
It's a check valve which is used on the factory when they fill the system.
Normally it shouldn't be a problem to unscrew it and change it out with a normal bleed nipple.
Loctite is used, the type which can be unscrewed with ordinary hand tools.
But the recommendation from BMW is that you undo the grub screw and mount a bleed nipple.
Bleed the brakes as normal, afterwards remove the bleed nipple and put back the grub screw.
Post by: bilgolabeach on February 09, 2018, 11:37:41 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 10, 2018, 12:17:56 AM
Does that mean that the checkvalve is jammed?I think it means things are ok, Malcolm. That unit would seem to be the check valve and it is stopping (checking) fluid flow. That's why no fluid leaves when that grub screw is removed from it. You either need to have a factory bleed screw designed for this check valve to accomplish bleeding—description is in this document from the MAX BMW fiche—or remove the whole check valve and replace it with a standard bleed bleed valve. Heating the check valve a little with a heat gun should allow release of the Locktite gripping it. First though, you need to decide which method you intend to use for bleeding and have the corresponding part or parts ready to install for the job.
Post by: Inge K. on February 10, 2018, 04:47:19 AM
but when I remove the grubscrew, and pull the lever, no fluid comes out. Does that mean that the checkvalve is jammed?
As mentioned in my previous post you must mount a bleed nipple where the grub screw have been.
When you mount the bleed screw, it will open the check valve.....see the PDF which Laitch provided.
It's a standard bleed screw that you need, just like the one you have on the LHS...I would guess it's
M10 x 1.0 which is the threads mostly used by BMW in brake applications...measure the grub screw.
Post by: bilgolabeach on February 11, 2018, 03:51:05 AM
Post by: bilgolabeach on June 10, 2018, 08:30:04 AM
And, is there a switch for putting the parking lights on/off without the ignition on? They come on with the ingnition (likewise the headlight),
but I can't see how to switch them on as parking lights only.
Sorry, I know this should be a new post, but couldn't figure out how to do that.
Post by: bilgolabeach on June 10, 2018, 08:48:21 AM
that's the image of what's on the rocker switch on the handlebar mounted dash panel.
any clues?
and thanks, I'll try using the ignition switch to get the parkers to work.
Post by: gazman on June 10, 2018, 10:22:38 AM
Post by: SinNH on July 17, 2019, 02:51:48 PM
Front modulator wouldn't give a drop, even with max vacuum ( usually use about 50% vac at the most ) so I did the calipers, went fine, three reservoirs each and back to the modulator still nothing. Thanks ahead for any ideas.
PS brakes felt fine before starting fluid change, same set-up as my RT, and now in the shop the front lever feels normal after fluid change.
And, seems funny to me that the input line from the lever/reservoir connects on the mod on the bottom port below the bleed nipple and the output line just above, and yet I can bleed the calipers, but not the nipple 20 mm above.
The bleed nipple threads into a reducing bushing or some sort. Anyone opened that up ?
Post by: johnny on September 02, 2019, 10:13:05 AM
Post by: volador on September 02, 2019, 10:59:55 PM
grubscrewit.png (173.71 kB . 588x493 - viewed 790 times)
Nice Shirt! When are these available for subscribers?