Rusty's K100 Scrambler (lets try that again)

[RustyK]

Following on from my tale of woe buying a K sight unseen from someone that said "it just needs some fuel, a battery and the tires pumped", I decided to do it again - although this time I'd only buy one I could ride home. I had spotted one on eBay no one had bid on for the pricey sum of £750 and I just could not figure out what the catch was. Well I only had 10 minutes before the auction ended to decide.

2 days later.....




It started life as a 91 K100 - and ultimately lost its fairing on a hot Spanish tour where the owner said he needed to get some airflow over himself. its got some Honda headlight, and has 36k miles on the clock. Mint? No, but a gazillion times better than the last one.

It has only 2 "faults" - the choke/fast idle light is always on - even though its not, and I've now found out the headlight low and high beam doesn't work - only the park light and the flash to pass engages the bright.

It was suprisingly fun to ride home.

[Laitch]

 

[natalena]

Congrats on a nice condition, running brick for less than a 4 digit price. Enjoy, Cheers!

[frankenduck]

Choke light:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/choke/choke.htm

[Kaos]

Nice pick, 750 quid for a 36k mile bike with those minor inconveniences is basically a steal nowadays.
I've red your rusty brick story and man.. I had one of those as well. Bought for 200 and looked like it had sat in the ocean for years with only 69k (kilometer) which is about 49k miles?
Brought it to the metal dump this weekend (had it sitting around for about 6 months) and got me 21 euro back.
I did harvest all the good parts tho and sold of the extra parts. All and all ended making a small profit.

Now comes the good part. [insane glare] 23 years old, 36k miles, watch your bolts when pulling it appart. sounds like it has been sitting still for a long time.

[RustyK]

Thanks guys - apologies imgur seemed to get stuck in a loop uploading my photos.

I've set about collecting the parts I want for the last 2 months.

I had acquired a lovely set of forks earlier - as seen in the other thread


However they are off at T-Tech getting the seals replaced and set up.




New headlight.




I did a test fit, which is when I found out the low beam & high beam currently doesnt work. I think I know what it is, but I'm replacing the switchgear anyways.

Speedo also arrived.....

[RustyK]

Parts of been trickling in - much to the annoyance of the missus. Not the purchases, but the ringing of the doorbell while she is on work calls. 



i'm going to try these switches..... This will be the function buttons for the daytona speedo. And I've now ordered a 4 button too as I like the quality, so I'll be using them for indicators, horn, headlight beams.


A mate of mine has just bought a blasting cabinet and compressor setup, so obviously we're looking for things to blast...... I've been toying with what to do with the engine covers.........



(Click for video if this doesnt work)

Nice, easy, even. I like the finish, now to decide on paint.

[RustyK]

I pulled the front cover off, and I'm not sure what to do with this. Obviously water has gotten in and corroded the sensor bracket. This bike works fine and rides well, but this looks like something I may as well replace..... Perhaps I could just clean up the plate - but are these a known problem child on these and does it make sense to replace new?

[Kaos]

That hall sensor definately needs to be replaced.
Seeing that front, you probably want to check your waterpump as well.
Just to be sure, your Daytona velona -w? (Looks like the w model), has buttons underneath to configure it and adjust settings. So you might not need the buttons for the Speedo.
And from experience, you might want to look for an rpm stabilizer because itl fluctuate alot.

If you're in dire need of a specific engine part or parts shoot me a dm.

[RustyK]

That hall sensor definately needs to be replaced.
Seeing that front, you probably want to check your waterpump as well.
Just to be sure, your Daytona velona -w? (Looks like the w model), has buttons underneath to configure it and adjust settings. So you might not need the buttons for the Speedo.
And from experience, you might want to look for an rpm stabilizer because itl fluctuate alot.

If you're in dire need of a specific engine part or parts shoot me a dm.

Yeah, the water/oil pump will definitely be getting rebuilt. What hall sensors are the best to replace with these days?

Yeah, the W has the buttons, but i'd like to flick through the options on the move from the bars.  I remember seeing a thread about an RPM issue with these. Any recommendations for a stabilizer?

I'm sure I'll have tons of questions when its wiring time!

[Kaos]

The k100 and the k1100 all have the same oem number for the hall sensor. So grab one a new as possible of with the fewest miles. They should only be around 20 ish maybe 30 ish pounds.
For stabilizing the meter, Daytona has this noise reduction wire: DAYTONA VELONA TACHOMETER - OPTIONAL HARNESS, 98641.

[RustyK]

The k100 and the k1100 all have the same oem number for the hall sensor. So grab one a new as possible of with the fewest miles. They should only be around 20 ish maybe 30 ish pounds.
For stabilizing the meter, Daytona has this noise reduction wire: DAYTONA VELONA TACHOMETER - OPTIONAL HARNESS, 98641.

Not sure where you seeing ones that cheap - they seem to be about £90! And then k parts holland has new ones for 130 euro! Well, I have some time so I'll keep an eye out - I may also just try sort this one out too - it could all be superficial.

[RustyK]

As I'm going to be running GSXR front forks, brakes and callipers, I thought I may was well use the master cylinder and clutch levers from it too. I found a cheap one from a crashed bike on eBay - £20, it had some damage to the lever and the corner. I'll be honest I dont actually remember clicking buy but it arrived.



Anyways, this was an opportunity to experiment with some paints. First attempt was satin black - too shiny


Matt looks much better


I managed to find a black lever from the 1000 new for £20.

So this is ready, and looks great (IMHO). But i'm expecting issues with it as I didn't replace the piston seals (they are weirdly expensive) - hopefully the brembo assembly lube will keep it nice until the install.

[RustyK]

A small update!

I've got a few bits that I've ordered!







Very very nice stuff! 

So mocked it up - and thinking its looking great!




So now the strip down starts in earnest. Time to get cracking as I've got a bit of a space problem as I've bought another bike.

[RustyK]

Its taking time to do this - and I'm gathering loads and loads of parts as I go that I'll have to sell/give away. If anyone is looking for something specific let me know.





Recording the mileage.


One job I was dreading were the exhaust studs - flashbacks to the SM and ADV.... But, I spent a couple nights adding penetrating lube - and then went at it with an impact driver. The came out surprisingly easy - except 2 I rounded and had to hammer a smaller socket on. But no broken bolts!  8-)







One surprise was the rear brake pedal. Just what is this ali made of?

[RustyK]

Nearly have completely town down!







This was a big milestone! All connectors labeled and hopefully I can figure this all out later  :shock:

[Kaos]

. But no broken bolts!  8-)

Pfff lucker.

Any luck with the hall sensor btw?

[RustyK]

I've not bothered looking for the sensor yet - way too much other stuff going on - I'll be on the prowl when I start assembly.

Reached the last milestone before the frame comes off and I go to town cleaning and painting things.



The moment of truth - after the disaster that the last one presented me with when I peered into the intakes..... :(


Clean as a whistle!

[natalena]

Steady progress, well done! My wife really likes your work area and commented on it being attractive as a "modern man in natural environment" exhibit. Building a storage garage, and like the sliders vs overhead doors. Good luck with the frame prep/paint. Cheers

[RustyK]

Ah thanks! Its a bit tight, but I'm lucky enough to have a space to work on things in London (well, I prioritised and built it) - most people have converted their garages into living areas.

But if it ever comes to sell, this would make a good games room/home office/whatever.

[RustyK]

Finally done - and I've taken a fair bit more off of it!



One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here. Looking on the parts diagrams - for instance here, it looks like this is expected?

[Kaos]

Comming apart nicely. Almost makes me want to do it a 4th time.

One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here. Looking on the parts diagrams - for instance here, it looks like this is expected? besides the gunk that is.

this looks as expected. If I recall correctly, mine was the same.

[Laitch]

One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here.

You might take a deeper dive, just to be certain. The photos below from Max BMW depict what's on offer there. If your Brick's bearings are sealed and have no roughness in rotation, you're good to go.

[Kaos]

. If your Brick's bearings are sealed and have no roughness in rotation, you're good to go.

Ill just take the shot, as the goal is open.. After cleaning them.
With a Q-tip. (not the rapper) or yes, with the rapper.
But also with wd-40 "everything cleaner"

[RustyK]

Yeah, the bearings are looking okay. The bearings could do with some grease but the races feel okay - although they have some discolouration where the rollers have rested. At £35 each I may just try repack them ultimately as they felt fine.

I've used the shaft axel as the test bed to removing the oxidation etc.  Plain manual labor and light degreaser seems to win - but ultimately this is going in my mates sand blasting cabinate.


I went to work on the gearbox housing - initially removing all the oil/grease with brake cleaner/degreaser etc


to



And then just wire brushes on the drill - - its going to take some time but I think its going to get there - ultimately I'm getting it ready to paint - and that in itself is proving tricky to select the paint - I want the engine block, bell housing and gearbox the same at least - ideally matt black - but the question is does it really need "high temp" paint? The UK looks like the options simply are https://www.simoniz.uk/products/engine-enamel/ or similar. I've used it before on my SMR's radiator and its help up very well.





I didnt think it was all that successful until I put it next to the motor.


one thing is for sure. This is going to take some time.