92 K75 RT project .

[beemuker]

I was mistaken . I am getting fuel to the rail , but it is not returning to tank. It may be blocked in the rail, the line or regulator. Will investigate tm.
Thanks

[The Mighty Gryphon]

First thing I would do is disconnect the return line from the fuel tank and see if there is a free flow of fuel coming out of it when the pump is running. 

There is a check valve at the return line connection to the fuel tank that may be stuck and blocking the flow.

I doubt that the rail is blocking the flow; the cross section is too big.  That leaves just the regulator and the check valve, and possibly a collapsed hose.  Since the return line connection is the easiest to get to, that is where I would go.

[beemuker]

First thing I would do is disconnect the return line from the fuel tank and see if there is a free flow of fuel coming out of it when the pump is running. 

There is a check valve at the return line connection to the fuel tank that may be stuck and blocking the flow.

I doubt that the rail is blocking the flow; the cross section is too big.  That leaves just the regulator and the check valve, and possibly a collapsed hose.  Since the return line connection is the easiest to get to, that is where I would go.

I had the lines backward. Now getting gas to the rail and returning to tank. Also getting spark to the plugs, but no fire. Pulled a plug, it was dry.?. Advice?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Are the injectors flowing fuel?  Pull the injectors and the rail and see what the spray looks like.  Shoot the fuel into bottles so it doesn't start a fire. 

[beemuker]

Are the injectors flowing fuel?  Pull the injectors and the rail and see what the spray looks like.  Shoot the fuel into bottles so it doesn't start a fire.

yeah that was gonna be my next step .I loosened  the two bolts ,then came in for lunch .I am going to read up on how to pull the rail , looks like all injectors come out at once.Assume that’s the problem as the plug was dry and did not smell fuel from exhaust.

[beemuker]

yeah that was gonna be my next step .I loosened  the two bolts ,then came in for lunch .I am going to read up on how to pull the rail , looks like all injectors come out at once.Assume that’s the problem as the plug was dry and did not smell fuel from exhaust.

they are really dirty. And the number three plug I pulled has an injector that looks completely clogged. No wonder it was dry. the holes that they fit into are full of crap. I blew the engine with the air to keep anything from falling in there. But now I’ve gotta figure out how to clean the crud out without it falling into the engine. Maybe a rubber plug and then flushing it with some kind of spray cleaner or solvent. I need to figure what to do with the injectors. Try to clean them or send them off or try to get some new ones. Mr injector ?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Have you removed the throttle bodies to get into the intake ports?  Sounds like they were off at some time and a bunch of dirt got in the ports.

[beemuker]

Have you removed the throttle bodies to get into the intake ports?  Sounds like they were off at some time and a bunch of dirt got in the ports.

The dirt isn’t in the port just all around the outside but very close to where it I could fall in. I guess there’s no harm in trying to clean the injectors myself.

[beemuker]

For what it costs, with shipping both ways, These are about the same price. I,m going to try cleaning them first, no harm?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Take your time cleaning them, and while they are out, soak the rail in white vinegar and do a real good flush.  I suspect there may be a bunch of rust in it that is flaking off and clogging the filters.

When you clean them, first get all the dirt off the outside with a stiff brush and detergent.  Dry them well and remove the filter screens and o-rings as well as the pintle tips.  You can pull the filters out with a sheet metal screw.  Take one of your injectors to the local auto parts emporium and get replacements for the o-rings, filters, and pintle tips. 

An ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to clean them, but if you don't have one you can get decent results with one of those plastic attachments that allow you to shoot cleaner through the injector.  There are kits that have the attachment and some cables to energize the injector while you spray the cleaner through it. 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Universal-Fuel-Injector-Flush-Cleaner-Adapter-DIY-Kit-Car-Cleaning-Tool-Nozzle/1870345510

If the injector is sticky, you can sort of "impact" the pintle by connecting the positive lead to a large coarse thread bolt connected to a battery.  By dragging one of the wires connected to the injector slowly across the threads the rapid on and off will help jar the pintle loose.  If you have one, an old doorbell transformer will also work.  Just don't leave it connected to the injector for more than a couple seconds to avoid overheating the injector.

[stokester]

Time for Mr. Injector?

[frankenduck]

Time for Mr. Injector?

That's what she said.

[beemuker]

couldn't even get the filters out so I'm sending them off to Mr. Injector. will report back.

[beemuker]

finally got the injectors back. installed, but no start... until I remembered to plug in the tank wires. then fired up. hooray!. took it for a short ride. Can feel a lot of engine heat. I think I got all the fairing bits sorted, thankfully the previous owner labeled all the parts right/left. I must be missing a piece or 2 as the radio and storage boxes have nothing to latch to at the front. the 2 tabs are supposed to insert into something ?
thanks for all the help. Another brick brought back to life.

[lefthander]

Glad to hear you got it running.

[beemuker]

Is #1 the correct part?



Anyone have a spare?

Also missing 2 switches or switch blanks?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yes, that's the part you need. 

The original on my RT had disintegrated from age.  Seems that after putting all that weight up high with the fairing and all the other stuff, BMW decided to save weight by making that trim piece a flimsy little chunk of plastic that breaks if you even look at it sternly.  Good idea to replace it now while you can still get one.

[beemuker]

Thanks. That’s what the guy I bought the bike from said. He said it fell apart in six pieces when he was trying to take it off.

[lefthander]

Beemuker, I have a bl it isank switch piece if that helps you let me know and I can send it to you. I may have two but can't confirm that right now.
Let me know. I'll cover any postage costs.

[Laitch]

. . . bl it isank . . .

[lefthander]

Sorry, blank switch piece you were asking about

[beemuker]

Sorry, blank switch piece you were asking about

I understood, thanks, I’ll take you up on your offer, will pm address.

[beemuker]

Finally got it all back together and it starts, stops, and runs fine, but the speedo and odo were not working. I was not looking forward to removing the front fairing to get the unit out , but was able to get it out by just removing the windscreen. Took it apart and pulled the 3 pin out , it was clean, but I deoxed it and slightly twisted the pins, got it back together and deoxed it main connector for good measure. The speedo now works. Hoo ray !!! Unfortunately , the odo still is inoperative. I need to get back in there and have a look at the gears. Is there a similar setup that needs to be cleaned for the odo? or does the 3 pin I cleaned  connect the odo and speedo signal?

[beemuker]

took the speedo apart and the top 2 gears are missing teeth. This seems to be a common problem and am awaiting the gears duck is sending so I can get this moto back on the road.

[beemuker]

The gears finally arrived and the odo put back together. It works. With no fuel level sender it will be easier not to run out of fuel. Thanks for all the help. Now I have to decide which moto to keep, 92 K75RT or 00 R1100 RT. The 75 is smoother but the 1100 is roomier and more powerful and fits me better. I only have room for 1.