Well I had a good amount of assessment last night...aka the system taken off and turbo sent out for a rebuild today. I’ve found a clean k100rs that this kit is going to go on when the turbo is back. Once I have everything buttoned up I’m gonna sell the black bike as a roller.
All of the crank oil seeped into the exhaust overnight so I had to empty a few quarts of oil out of the exhaust. There definitely is not a check valve. I am going to pull the pan to investigate. Has any one seen this setup? The few luft-bikes I’ve seen have the same drain line as me.
I was able to figure out a new tech flapper valve from a mini to help with off boost using the factory maf and trying to locate someone with a fifth injector kit so I can reverse engineer it.
I want to use stock fueling to keep things simple and with the old school tech theme. Atktasian have you had any experience with this? I know a Hobbs switch was used to open The extra injector at 4psi but need to find what injector/cfm was used (I’m assuming it was a stock Bosch k100). I do need to figure out if it was wired in to pull the signal from the ecu so the duty cycle was controlled with throttle or if it was a simple on/off?
Also for any turbo guys following have you been able to source parts for the original boost guard wastegate? If not I’ll upgrade to a tial for ease or finding parts to tune.
I can answer towards several of your questions - I have researched the RB "K" bike components and control systems with several other owners. I haven't owned one, but managed to suss things out reasonably well. That is to say, going so analog with stock injection control and the add on 5th or extra injector, and no real tunable ecu control adds up to the same analogy I used previously, only more so. Ensuring you keep the proper fueling ratios under all the various engine loading states with the tack on stuff, extra widgets is akin to targeting sitting on the beach ball while it is in a swimming pool. Can be done but certainly not without gymnastics and challenges. I say this not to discourage you, but enlighten the better way of full ecu control of your bikes electronic systems (ignition which deserves better control under boost, and injection which seeks to melt your pistons when your enthralled with roll on). I have gone the affordable route of MicroSquirt, or there is Megasquirt for added options. There is a learning curve. Seems like you are very well devoted to your bikes and having a turbo - so that's my advice to do it right.
Now, if you gauge the oil level in the sump and compare to the center line of your turbo cartridge, you most likely will notice the cartridge is very close (if not slightly below level which was definitely the case on some of RB's systems) The one cardinal rule on turbos is proper feed, and
drainage. The fact that yours doesn't have any check valves on the interior plumbing of the pan suggests you will continue to suffer from siphon back feeding against the cartridge seals, and the shut down heat will coke up things and rapid failure soon demands more of your cash as cartridge fails. As well, steep long downhill runs will add to the head of oil seeking to work against proper drainage. Smoke will be the least of problems.
I find RB doesn't reveal the early systems with the check valves any more, but I have a poor quality photo I can offer below:
IMG_2962 (1).png (556.84 kB . 640x480 - viewed 813 times)Those balance the main bell suction for engine lube, with a slightly prioritized suction on the turbo drain, as well provides anti drain back which what you photos shows will not do. Hence the exhaust full of engine sump oil.
I've dabbled with that check valve set up, but I suspect RB spent months testing different cracking pressures and relationships to get it right (at least this was how they described it). You can test this by disconnecting the drain hose and plugging. Then place a canister under the turbo and run to see how much oil is naturally draining. Don't run sump too low. Now unplug the hose to the pan and place into that same container and run again. The turbo will continue to naturally drain into that container, but the internal plumbing will attempt to "suck it up". The amount of oil being introduced must be less than the amount being sucked back to engine. To be 100% confident, you must do this at idle, and at a relatively high rpm with hot oil to ensure it is good throughout.
I use instead a small bronze gear scavenging pump, and low crack pressure check valves on both oil inlet, and oil drainage side to ensure no drain back (no smoke on start up, mind you I've swapped my side kick stand to the right side to keep oil migration down the cylinders under control as well).
Way too long of an email, pretty technical topic and not many partakers, or those wishing to divulge they are dabbling in boost.