final drive lube: need i to remove the drive shaft too?

[foliver]

Hi!, i'm working on my K75C 1986.
Tomorrow i'll lube the final drive ( my 1st time) with staburags NBU30 PTM
Need i remove the drive shaft too, and apply grease in the upper part?
it's easy to "reconnect it?
txs for your comments!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Once the final drive is removed from the swingarm, the drive shaft can be pulled out by clamping Visegrips on it and giving it a hard yank.  It takes a hard yank, so don't be gentle.

Reinstalling the shaft involves pushing it onto the transmission output splines until it hits the ring that holds it in place.  Then, a good whack with large hammer using a block of wood to protect the end of the shaft will drive it onto the output shaft.  A quick tug will confirm that it is properly locked in place.

[blackie1]

yes, you may as well.
it is very easy to pop  the drive shaft out and even easier to pop it back in.
I have not watched this video by Chris Harris for a while but am sure he explains how to.


and a big thank you to Chris . he has posted many very helpful videos

[foliver]

Hi Mighty and Blackie 1, thanks for your answers and detailed explanations.
I'll do it.
there's so much time that it needs to be done, that i've affraid to open, and see ho's going on, jajja.
I don't even know if the previous owners has even done it once...
Chris Harry's videos are very very helpful, thanks to him too.
Once out, i'll post pictures.
A breackfast and i jump into!

[foliver]

Hi, well all seems ok
Take a look on the pictures.
The only strange thing is that I’ve found a piece of rubber mixed with grease close to the spline
I don’t know where it came from, any ideas?
I’m trying to take off the shaft but it stays in place, I’m leaving marks with the vice grips cause it slides when I knock. Maybe I can try a small rubber piece between. I keep trying.

[foliver]

I take it off!
I’ve found the rubber piece arround the shaft is broken, so the piece part in the spline comes from that.
What grease can I apply to the “ball Jonction “? It has a white one now.
Thanks for the info! It was easy to do it, and I’m happy cause I’ve found it greased, and in good shape.
Thanks for your opinions !

[D.Bachtel]

Those splines look good. Lots of wear left to do. You should be happy about that.
Back to that water/oil pump. Try ebay for parted out K bike pumps. You might save a hundred dollars and end up with a low mile complete assembly.

[foliver]

Thanks Batchel, do I leave the broken rubber part as it is?
Do I apply white grease (or other heavy one)  to the joint or the same starburags NBU30?what do you think

[frankenduck]

It doesn't hurt to lube them but it's really not necessary.  Splines wear when they SLIDE UNDER LOAD. The splines at the front of the drive shaft have a clip in them and they DO NOT SLIDE so they don't wear.

The two sets of splines that SLIDE UNDER LOAD and wear are the splines at the rear of the drive shaft and the clutch splines. I only bother with the front drive shaft splines when doing a full clutch spline lube.

[D.Bachtel]

Bachtel. D.Bachtel

I don't recall relubing the sealed joint on mine.
I used some expensive Honda spline lube on my K75.
Applied with a toothbrush after cleaning all the old lube off.
Well massaged into all surfaces. Root and lash. Not too much.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The u-joint has permanently lubricated bearings so it doesn't need to be lubed. 

The splines at the final drive end of the drive shaft look like they have a little wear.  If it were my bike, I would plan on cleaning and lubing them every year no matter what the miles was.  That will keep them in good shape for as long as you own the bike. 

The splines on the final drive look brand new.  Your photos are excellent and should be the guide for how spline photos should be taken.

That chunk of rubber is interesting.  I've never heard of that before.  I wonder how it happened.

[foliver]

Thanks Batchel, Frankenduck, and Mighty for your answers.
Ok, i got it.
I'll try to do it each year.

Need i to replace the rubber seal of the final drive? ( the one has lost a piece), it looks firm, it doesn't desintegrate.
Is a part that i cannot find online, someone has a tip?, it's easy to change? or i leave it as is?

thanks!!!

[frankenduck]

If it were my bike, I would plan on cleaning and lubing them every year no matter what the miles was.

It's mileage, not time, that wears out splines.  A lot of people, myself included, relube the final drive splines at every rear tire change. You have to take the rear wheel off anyhow.

[jagarra]

Once the final drive is removed from the swingarm, the drive shaft can be pulled out by clamping Visegrips on it and giving it a hard yank.  It takes a hard yank, so don't be gentle.

another way to pull the drive shaft is to use a hose clamp on the end, then I place a piece of metal between the the housing and screw portion of clamp and pry on it, it just pops out. 

[blackie1]

do not worry about that missing piece of rubber. I doubt it will have too much  effect and i do not think you can replace separately. 

[foliver]

Hi!
Done
It was WAY easier than I thought.
I was waiting looong time to do it, cause I was kind of afraid, but it was easy.
I’m happy that someone before me has done it well on the bike, the splines are good.
I’ll continue with other things on the bike.
I keep posting
Thanks!!!!

[D.Bachtel]

That's a lot of lube. More to clean up next year. A light coat is all that's required.

[Laitch]

A waste of material, fabian and if you didn't thoroughly clean the splines, it is unlikely to be as effective as how Chris Harris recommends doing it.

[foliver]

OOpps, you are right, waste of material.
I didn't knew how mutch, next time will be the correct.
My mistake is a good learning for others in the future if they read this thread.
i cleaned all the surfaces with patience and love.

Thanks for your support!

[frankenduck]

A waste of material, fabian and if you didn't thoroughly clean the splines, it is unlikely to be as effective as how Chris Harris recommends doing it.

What a crock of shit. As long as you keep the front of the transmission input shaft clean you can put as much lube on the clutch splines as you care to.

Here's how much I use:



It is true that you don't want it spinning off onto the clutch plate friction surface but that only matters on the FRONT of the transmission input shaft.  In case you haven't noticed there is a collar on the rear of the clutch plate. If you use "too much" lube then it gets pushed back when you put the transmission on and then it just spins off harmlessly onto the interior of the bellhousing.

[Laitch]

What a crock of shit. As long as you keep the front of the transmission input shaft clean you can put as much lube on the clutch splines as you care to.

It's still a waste because nowhere near that much is needed. If useless consumption of material is acceptable, so be it. Not everybody has deep pockets like yours, duck. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Duck, I respect your extensive knowledge of things Brick, but even though the Starburags application in the photo won't hurt the clutch, it certainly is an extravagant use of a very expensive maintenance item.  What I see in that photo is more than the total amount used in the annual maintenance of three bikes plus what goes on clutch splines when I do them. 

My personal experience with spline wear tells me that it doesn't really take much lube to prevent virtually all damage.   My K75RT is now a few miles short of 100K and the splines of the original drive shaft still show absolutely no signs of wear after annual application of thin layers of HondaMoly60.   

[frankenduck]

Duck, I respect your extensive knowledge of things Brick, but even though the Starburags application in the photo won't hurt the clutch, it certainly is an extravagant use of a very expensive maintenance item.  What I see in that photo is more than the total amount used in the annual maintenance of three bikes plus what goes on clutch splines when I do them. 

My personal experience with spline wear tells me that it doesn't really take much lube to prevent virtually all damage.   My K75RT is now a few miles short of 100K and the splines of the original drive shaft still show absolutely no signs of wear after annual application of thin layers of HondaMoly60.   

You guys are kidding, right?  A tube of Honda Moly costs $10 for a "lifetime" supply and it's only required every 40K on 1990 and later bikes. Having a little extra spin off costs you maybe 50 cents if you really overdo it.  Over 200,000 miles that a whopping $2.50.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Waste not, want not... 

It's the motto of the International Cheap Bastards.  I'm a charter member. 

Ten bucks!?  I just wish I could still get it.  When I got mine it was $13.95+ New York State's $1.25.  Since then I've gifted out about 2/3 of it to a number of Brick owners who were unable to find their own supply.  What's left has to last until I(not the bikes) throw a rod.

[frankenduck]

Waste not, want not... 

It's the motto of the International Cheap Bastards.  I'm a charter member. 

Ten bucks!?  I just wish I could still get it.  When I got mine it was $13.95+ New York State's $1.25.  Since then I've gifted out about 2/3 of it to a number of Brick owners who were unable to find their own supply.  What's left has to last until I(not the bikes) throw a rod.

So it'll cost a whole 75 cents?

Last time I bought some Honda Moly 60, back in 2012 I think when it was still available, it cost me $9.95 at a local Honda dealer. It's lasted me many, many spline lubes.  I actually use a 50/50 mix of the Honda 60 and Wurth SIG-3000 based on a recommendation from Paul Glaves. It's a sticky mix, very similar to what Guard Dog used to sell.

The Wurth SIG-3000 is $25 per tube but you get 14 oz for that which is many, many lifetimes' supply.