MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: wmax351 on August 31, 2011, 11:03:10 PM
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I've been wondering about upgrading my K75 to a more efficient closed loop EFI system, most likely mega/micro squirt.
It would be partially as an interesting engineering hobby/fidgeting project. But it may be somewhat practical as well. Should allow for a decent bump in mileage, especially at higher speed, where the LE-Jetronic loses accuracy, and as far as I know, utilizes an open loop enrichment trigger, as well as running rich from the start. Would also add in a wideband O2 sensor, which would greatly simplify tuning.
Also would allow for cheap and less restrictive MAF sensors, or quicker responding MAP sensors.
I've seen megasquirt used on a turbo'd K75.
Not really looking to create a superbike. K75 wound out is plenty fast for me.
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I may have found a source for a cheap, second hand megasquirt from a friend of mine on the UC Berkeley Super Mileage Vehicle Team.
Should greatly reduce the budget needed for this.
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This for the K100 which is slightly different but should help some:
http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/efi-web%20page/K100%20troubleshooting%20Starting.pdf (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/efi-web%20page/K100%20troubleshooting%20Starting.pdf)
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In terms of what I would be doing, the two bikes are actually identical. I will be doing batch injection, so all it needs is the RPM signal from the tach and the temperature sensors.
I would just remove the MAF sensor, and put a intake air temp sensor in the plenum. After syncing the TB's by closing the Idle Bypass screws and adjusting the TB's, I would use a vacuum line from the middle cylinder for the MAP sensor.
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You can pull an RPM signal off of the coils directly. That's what I use for the cruise control. I use the outboard wire on the connector.
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You can pull an RPM signal off of the coils directly. That's what I use for the cruise control. I use the outboard wire on the connector.
Good idea. Should be an easier splice and a cleaner signal.
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(http://www.partsformotorcycle.info/revimages/PosiTaps.jpg)
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(http://www.partsformotorcycle.info/revimages/PosiTaps.jpg)
Man I love these.
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A couple friends of mine want to megasquirt their 2002's, so I've now got people to split some of the costs, like a wideband O2 sensor and the stimulator.
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I tracked down the Plug for the Jetronic computer: No need to cut or make a harness!
Free samples are great btw.
http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=17458&M=PPROP&P=10008,2349&BML=&LG=1&PG=1&IDS=96454,170034,169740,169741,169618,169619,96373,169736,169668,169669,383933,383934,383935,383936,383937,385795,487242,169613,169614,385794&N=1 (http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=17458&M=PPROP&P=10008,2349&BML=&LG=1&PG=1&IDS=96454,170034,169740,169741,169618,169619,96373,169736,169668,169669,383933,383934,383935,383936,383937,385795,487242,169613,169614,385794&N=1)
I will be starting on this over winter break. I will make a point of doing a writeup on this.
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Interesting project. Keep us posted.
Drop me a line if that connector doesn't work. I've probably got one lying around from a cut up harness....
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Interesting project. Keep us posted.
Drop me a line if that connector doesn't work. I've probably got one lying around from a cut up harness....
Will do.
The part I need is from the ECU, unfortunately. If you have a dead/fried/smashed ECU, that would work well though.
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The part I need is from the ECU, unfortunately. If you have a dead/fried/smashed ECU, that would work well though.
I don't have any fried brains but occasionally people have them go bad and buy a replacement from me. Next time somebody buys one I'll ask about the old one....
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I don't have any fried brains ....
ahh, takes me back to the 70's
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I will look forward to a report and writeup as I am building my own version of motronic for my KZ1300 Kawasaki. I know that the later ones came with injection but it's a pet project.
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Been working out how to set up the Megasquirt ignition system, which would give me better control of the advance.
I'm going to start with fuel only, then go from there.
The Megasquirt system is not designed to work with the twin hall sensor, 2 window design on our bikes. I need to trick it into thinking it is something different, like 2 timing wheels.
If I set up two logic gates, I can get 3 evenly spaced pulses per crank revolution, as well as 1 pulse per crank revolution to identify a cylinder.
I can set up an AND gate for the 1 pulse, which will come from both of the Hall sensors, and an OR gate which will pulse 3x per revolution.
Not to sure on the exact circuitry, but it seems pretty easy to implement. If anyone is familiar with circuit logic, it would be very helpful.
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I checked out the Mega Squirt and it certainly seems a better way to go. Getting good info on a Bosch system is like trying to find a unicorn let alone a virgin to ride it.
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I checked out the Mega Squirt and it certainly seems a better way to go. Getting good info on a Bosch system is like trying to find a unicorn let alone a virgin to ride it.
Its all about learning how to extract info from the mythic Bosch Elves. :P
A lot of the stuff is all from the same companies. Bosch seems to get ALL of its electronic components from tyco: IE: AMPseal connectors (Fuel injectors). Junior Power Timer (Similar to the one for the L-Jet connector, but much smaller) are for other connections. IE: the ones on the TPS.
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CNC milling a crank position shutter wheel. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEOktt40BBA#)
Crank Position Sensor install and test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_izb1QAvd7I#)
Seems like this guy (who made the turbo K75) made his own trigger wheel with optical sensors. Its a 15 tooth wheel, with a 1 tooth wheel underneath. the one tooth (deeper cut) wheel triggers both sensors, and the other windows only trigger one sensor. From that, megasquirt can interpret the two sensors, with the deep cut coinciding with a specific crank position, syncing the shallow cut sensor, which then counts the windows, in order to trigger the ignition.
I could definitely do this: I have access to a CNC shop at Berkeley.
I sent him a message, I will see if he sends me some more info on the project.
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With some more thinking and suggestions from a guy who turbo'd a streamliner K75 to 203mph at bonneville, I think I will just leave the ignition as-is. The bosch system is very good, and in his case worked to 12,500 rpm with a slight modification.
So right now I am looking at the following setup:
Stock:
-Coolant Temp Sensor
-Igniton System
-Injectors
-Fuel delivery system
New:
-Fan Control (Maybe). I could even set the fan to run for a minute after the bike has been running for 10. Would prevent any sort of fan seizure issues
-Fuel Control System
-Oxygen sensor (Narrowband for now, I'm to cheap to do a wideband system. Although this looks promising in its cheapness: http://www.waltech.com/site/index.php/open-source-projects (http://www.waltech.com/site/index.php/open-source-projects) )
-Potential addition of a multi-function display: Fuel+ on steroids. Can do MPG, Estimated to empty, Temp, AFR, etc
-Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor: (2x built into the MS system: one for automatic, constant barometric correction, the other for throttle body vacuum signal)
-Intake Air Temperature sensor: will use a GM coolant temp sensor, works the same, but with better durability, and sufficient response time for a naturally aspirated engine.
-Throttle Position Sensor (rather than an idle switch): I am using a cheap one off a hyundai: same fitment as one off of a volvo 850
-I may add an automatic fast idle stepper motor, to replace the fast idle cable. I figure I can do something more useful with the choke knob than to run the fast idle.
Will Remove:
-L-Jet System
-MAF sensor (I will keep it in a box, with everything needed to return to normal, L-jet system, ready to be overnighted if need be)
-Idle Switch
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I'm figuring i should abandon this project. More work than i need, and will cost more than its worth for me. i will put the money towards a new rear shock.
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But then how will we wrench vicariously through you?
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Damn, I'm sorry your giving up on this,I've put a Squirt on 2 engines now, am tickled with the first( a MS2,runs a Mazda 2.2 12 valve 4 banger,was turboed with a VJ11 IHI, and intercooler,broke a piston @ 14 psi so I rebuilt, pulled the turbo & am running it N/A now.Delivers 23 MPG on a regular basis as my daily and has shown me 30 .Starts @ -10 with ease.) The second is a MS3 plus 3X full seq. with 8 Chevy LS coils and ITB's on a small block 383 chevy.Throttle response on this is great, but is in a C3 Corvette ,brakes are screwed up again ,Just pissed with the pile.Plan to get back after it in a month or so.
Wondered how you planned to tune,I did both of mine on lonely highways here in Ne.Is easy with a lap top setting on pass. lap.I don't think that works very well on a scooter.
I've a stim if you change your mind.
Gimpy
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I was going to strap a netbook to the back seat, and run autotune with a wideband o2 sensor.
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Sorry for the late reply,(had to make the chubby fella in the red suit happy)That would work if you get the tune close,Auto tune just puts fine touches on.I would like to get rid of the air flow meter, and add closed loop/O2 sensor to the K100 also. I wondered if the Motronic from an 1100 would be close enough to run the 1000.If I read correctly this system is a speed /density setup, is that correct?
Gimpy
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Bringing this post back from the dead. The Formula SAE competition in lincoln, ne this year has inspired me. As well as the 33mpg i get while cruising at midwest superslab speeds to get there.
I am thinking i will use VEMS, which is similar to megasquirt, but a more solid system, that is based on a similar architecture to the mpg guages i am making, facilitating my programming it. Also has a built in Wideband O2 sensor controller.
Some of the profit from the mpg guages will go to this.
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33mpg? What do you get at say, 60 to 70? Should be almost 50 with a 75.
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Something is amiss if you're only getting 33 mpg.
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Some depends on the altitude plug. With it in at 5000 feet, get 42 or so at 70.
I may try bumping the timing up some more.
Although, i am still interested in doing this as a fun project. Will vastly improve throttle response as well. Rather than having the jetronic catch up to the throttle position, the throttle position (combined with manifold vacuum) will determine the fueling, calibrated by the wideband o2 sensor.
Some of my thoughts are that the bikes contemporary, the V65 sabre, gets better mileage with an 1100 cc, 150 horsepower, carburated monster.
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Max, I get a solid 48 with my 1100 as long as I keep the RPMs under 5 or 6 K. Only time it dropped into the high 30's was when I was running on 3 cylinders.
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Well, I pulled the trigger. Ordered a Megasquirt 1 kit. I will use the Airflow sensor for accurate fueling. Tunerstudio MS has a very good autotune feature. So I will be riding around with a laptop strapped to the back of the bike.
Basically, the initial setup will be Megasquirt 1, with a wideband O2 sensor controller. Stock AFM, actual throttle position sensor (rather than a switch).
I will either tune using Alpha N (throttle position and RPM) or MAF (air flow meter and RPM, with Acceleration enrichment [basically a digital pumper carb])
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Well, I pulled the trigger. Ordered a Megasquirt 1 kit. I will use the Airflow sensor for accurate fueling. Tunerstudio MS has a very good autotune feature. So I will be riding around with a laptop strapped to the back of the bike.
Basically, the initial setup will be Megasquirt 1, with a wideband O2 sensor controller. Stock AFM, actual throttle position sensor (rather than a switch).
I will either tune using Alpha N (throttle position and RPM) or MAF (air flow meter and RPM, with Acceleration enrichment [basically a digital pumper carb])
Max, super excited to hear how that project goes. Besides just seeing if it works, what's the goal?
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Well, I pulled the trigger. Ordered a Megasquirt 1 kit. I will use the Airflow sensor for accurate fueling. Tunerstudio MS has a very good autotune feature. So I will be riding around with a laptop strapped to the back of the bike.
Basically, the initial setup will be Megasquirt 1, with a wideband O2 sensor controller. Stock AFM, actual throttle position sensor (rather than a switch).
I will either tune using Alpha N (throttle position and RPM) or MAF (air flow meter and RPM, with Acceleration enrichment [basically a digital pumper carb])
Max, super excited to hear how that project goes. Besides just seeing if it works, what's the goal?
Some of the goal is that its interesting. But I will be able to improve power somewhat, improve throttle response greatly, and significantly improve fuel economy. The old ljet doesnt respond to changes, and runs super rich at high rpm. I will be able to control fuel mixxture accurately, with closed loop feedback. keep it at 15-16:1 while cruising, 14.7 in the middle, and 13.5 at wot.
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Got most of the computer and related items set up. O2 sensor bung welded into the exhaust, and all the things needed to wire it up.
I am going to start out using the control method that the K1100's use, Alpha-N. This compares throttle opening, RPM, air temperature/pressure, and coolant temperature. Then it trims the fuel delivery with feedback from the oxygen sensor.
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Max,
What will you be using for your TPS? The K75 uses just a switch whereas the K1100 unit outputs a signal proportional to the throttle opening. Are you adapting the K1100 TPS to your K75 throttle bodies ? I was toying once with the idea of fitting K1100 TBs to the K75 engine; never got past the contemplation stage though I think it could work. In your case, if you fitted the K1100 TBs, you'd get both larger throat opening and proportional TPS for your Megasquirt.
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I just used a cheap proportional tps. Pretty much universal. Paired with a quick and easy adapter (prototype as of now).
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Almost ready to install the Megasquirt unit.
I have a proportional TPS, and I have modified the circuit to provide inverse log response (for more accuracy) at the low end of the throttle.
All that is needed is to cut one wire on the air flow meter, and install.
I used a cheap volvo 740 L-Jetronic computer for its connector. I made a little circuit board with connectors for other circuits and sensors, as well as the main L-jet connector. This will all go into the old enclosure for the volvo ecu.
I have a wideband O2 sensor controller in a separate box, which feeds a 0-5 volt signal for the Air Fuel ratio (from 9:1 to 19:1 with gasoline).
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Max,
What will you be using for your TPS? The K75 uses just a switch whereas the K1100 unit outputs a signal proportional to the throttle opening. Are you adapting the K1100 TPS to your K75 throttle bodies ? I was toying once with the idea of fitting K1100 TBs to the K75 engine; never got past the contemplation stage though I think it could work. In your case, if you fitted the K1100 TBs, you'd get both larger throat opening and proportional TPS for your Megasquirt.
Hi Rob
TWB on the K100 forum put the K1100 TBs on his K100RS and it worked fine but he does not have a TPS working because the mounting is different . It goes well without the TPS.
Max How are you getting round the intergration of the megasquirt ECU and the K75 ignition and revlimiter?
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Max,
What will you be using for your TPS? The K75 uses just a switch whereas the K1100 unit outputs a signal proportional to the throttle opening. Are you adapting the K1100 TPS to your K75 throttle bodies ? I was toying once with the idea of fitting K1100 TBs to the K75 engine; never got past the contemplation stage though I think it could work. In your case, if you fitted the K1100 TBs, you'd get both larger throat opening and proportional TPS for your Megasquirt.
Hi Rob
TWB on the K100 forum put the K1100 TBs on his K100RS and it worked fine but he does not have a TPS working because the mounting is different . It goes well without the TPS.
Max How are you getting round the intergration of the megasquirt ECU and the K75 ignition and revlimiter?
The K100s also use a Air Flow Meter like the k75, which doesn't need the tps.
The K75 has the bosch ignition controller, which handles revlimits and ignition. It outputs a tach signal to the L-jet controller, which I am using with the Megasquirt.
I will enable a revlimiter on the megasquirt as a secondary safety.
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The megasquirt and j-jet adapter board. Mounted on the stock ecu tray. The wideband o2 controller is in the box on the right.
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Project is held up for a few days waiting for a $0.28 crystal. Those little buggers are delicate when installing. This time, I will glue it in place before soldering it.
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AND IT RUNS!!!!
Started right up. Needed to tweak a couple of settings, then it started on the first crank. Now to tune it.
I've been able to get a good idle vacuum signal (impressive with a Individual Throttle Body engine) at around 50kpa. This should make tuning much easier.
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Hooked it up to a laptop, and drove around today. Got a functional tune working so far. Great (far better than stock) response and power at lower rpms, and equal or better at higher. Its easier to do the low rpm tuning around town and on the twisties above berkeley, so understandably this part is tuned better. I need some more open straight road to dial in the higher rpms and higher loads. With the lower gears, it shoots through the rpms too quick to get a good reading. So for now, I have the high rpm set rich to keep the engine safe, and then I will let the tuning software (Tunerstudio MS) dial it back.
Interestingly, it starts far easier now. Even without priming the fuel pump (which the megasquirt usually does). Touch the starter switch, and it fires up even more quickly than stock.
I have it set up taking the ignition signal from the middle coil, which is the same cylinder as I am taking the vacuum (load) signal from. I have it configured in the software as a 2 cylinder, with a single coil. Basically, that is to give the correct reading for the crank position, and to allow me to split the fuel injection into two events per cycle (720 degrees) for smoother idle. I would do three times per cycle, but the resolution of the fuel injector decreases as the pulsewidth decreases. At idle, I am at about 3.5 milliseconds, divided into two 1.75 ms squirts. As long as the pulswidth is around 2 ms, it is usually fine.
Will keep working on it and update here. Looks like this will be fairly useful. Thus far I have left the stock fuel injection wiring harness on the bike, and tapped into it for some connections. But based on the results of todays testing, I am thinking I will want to make this a permanent install, with a custom, high quality wiring harness, perhaps this winter.
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Tuning setup.
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Fantastic news WMax. :2thumbup: :2thumbup:
Will you consider writing up your project for others to learn from when the system matures and becomes more "beta"? :)
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Interesting project to follow you have going on here. Can't wait until it is finalized.
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Fantastic news WMax. :2thumbup: :2thumbup:
Will you consider writing up your project for others to learn from when the system matures and becomes more "beta"? :)
I will indeed. Most of it is very well documented in general (see megamanual.com and MSextra.com), but there are a few tricks I had to use.
Basically what is needed is to tap the Water temperature sensor wire that goes to pin 10 of the L-Jet connector, make an adapter plate for a volvo throttle position sensor, add a temperature sensor to the intake (I screwed a GM coolant sensor into the intake snorkel. If it was turbo or supercharged, this would be more critical, need to be in the plenum, and would need a faster response), weld a oxygen sensor bung to the header collector box, make a harness for the injectors (which taps from the fuel pump supply wire, and supplies the wideband oxygen sensor controller), and then finally tap the #2 coil (-) and the #2 cylinder's vacuum port (with a vacuum line to the built in air pressure sensor). A pre-assembled wideband oxygen sensor controller is attached as well. All of this is hooked into the controller box.
A laptop is used for tuning, most of which occurs with an automatic algorithm with Tunerstudio software(http://www.tunerstudio.com/ (http://www.tunerstudio.com/)). The base map had it running well enough to get going after a bit of fidgeting with the idle and off idle mixture.
From here, I will continue tuning the fuel maps, and then add acceleration enrichment (like a pumper carb/accelerator pump). I will also add exhaust gas oxygen control, which updates the mixture on the fly.
So far it has better response in the lower rpms than it ever has had. Huge increase in torque and smoothness. I haven't gotten the higher rpm as well tuned yet. I have it set super rich for the moment as a safety precaution, and it has pretty good power at full throttle.
In general, I have been starting with the autotune function set for around 13.5:1 air fuel ratio, richer at higher loads, leaner down with lower loads. From there, I will lean it out for better mpg and emissions at cruise and other speeds. Will aim for a stochiometric (14.7:1) ratio at cruise, 13:1 at wide open throttle for peak power and torque.
I am considering at some point implementing a full fuel and spark control system, and potentially sequential injection. I would need to make a shutter wheel to replace the timing mechanism in the bike, as the 2-hall system will not work for the megasquirt, as far as I can tell. I may be able to make a microprocessor controller which will take the output from the hall sensors and convert it to something for the megasquirt. The stock bmw system is pretty ingenious. For the K75, it can tell which cylinder of 3 to fire (with wasted spark) by which of 2 sensors are active. The wheel has 2 slots 120 degrees from each other. With arbitrary cylinder numbering:
| Cylinder | hall 1 | hall2 |
| 1 | On | off |
| 2 | On | on |
| 3 | off | on |
Will keep posting as I update it. I'll happily share the maps with anyone who is interested in doing this.
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Well, did about 50 miles on it on friday. I changed the injection cycle to once per engine revolution. Much smoother response and idle, and better off idle performance, even without acceleration enrichment.
Was having some trouble tuning at higher speeds/rpm due to vibration/bumps causing read errors on my beater laptop. This will be resolved with a flash drive with linux running off of it, not using the hard drive.
Also had some issues with jiggling cables breaking the DB9 serial port on the megasquirt. I have made a new cable, which is a much lower profile, which prevents there from being leverage to damage the port. I have also added a 5 dollar bluetooth module. This allows me to use my phone (droid) as a datalogger and dashboard, and to change settings on the road, if I desire.
It is running great. Much more fun to ride: better performance down low in the rpms, and stays good throughout. I may be taking a trip next weekend, which will be a great trial run and tuning opportunity.
I attached the tune file, if anyone is interested in looking at it in tunerstudio. Its a free download at www.tunerstudio.com (http://www.tunerstudio.com) and you don't need to register. Its using MS2/extra version 3.24
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Well, more work has been done. The system is working well thus far, so I removed the old EFI harness and Air flow meter. Removing the AFM should give a bit better flow at peak torque (6000 rpm) where a lower manifold pressure at WOT suggests some restriction.
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Well, more tuning completed. Its running well. However, I am hitting the maximum Duty Cycle for the Injectors at WOT in several spots. There are a few things I can do here. This basically means I am trying to inject more fuel than the injectors allow. I may switch the injectors to fire once every 720 degrees rather than every 360. I can also increase the fuel pressure, which I will probably do.
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This is really cool. I've been interested in the Megasquirt system since I considered doing an FI swap on my old carbed 73 Plymouth Duster that was my DD about 3 years ago. I'm kinda toying with doing this on my K100. Keep us posted on this system as you work out the bugs please!
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Its been working pretty well. Still adjusting things (which for me, is the fun part). I added a vacuum manifold, that connects all three throttle bodies , the fuel pressure regulator, and the air pressure sensor. This provides an automatic balancing of the throttle bodies, as well as a more stable, reproducible manifold vacuum signal, which better represents the actual conditions. However, the vacuum is inaccurate at high throttle openings. To compensate, I switched the tuning method to Individual Throttle Body mode (ITB mode), where it utilizes the manifold vacuum at low throttle openings (to about 90% of barometric pressure) and throttle position at higher loads. So far, it is working well. I will post more as I go.
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Awesome, thanks for the update. Keep us posted here, this is really cool. How much would you guess you've spent on this conversion so far?
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Awesome, thanks for the update. Keep us posted here, this is really cool. How much would you guess you've spent on this conversion so far?
Probably about 350-400 If I wanted to sell off the original stuff, I could easily pay for it.
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I'm really starting to get the tune dialed in. I have great throttle response, and steady AFR's throughout the fuel map. Once its a little more dialed in, I will work on the cold running conditions. In addition, Phil Tobin, the guy who wrote the tuning software, is going to be debuting an auto-tuning algorithm for warmup variables.
On a ride I took this evening, at constant 70 mph, I am getting about 50 mpg instantaneously, with an AFR of 15:1. I still have room to go as it is running smoothly with no misfires, and I can probably dial cruise AFR back to about 15.5-16:1. Something around 55 mpg (US) at 70 mph is definitely achievable, which is quite good for an unfaired (except windshield), undergeared, shaft driven, bag equipped, standard with 100k miles on the clock.
Once I get the cold start tuned, It will be a very feasible and useful upgrade for others. I will have done 95% of the testing, research, work and trial and error involved, and will set up a cohesive set of documentation here once I settle in on a final configuration.
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That's great! Doubly so because others will stand to benefit from your work. Well done, my man! :2thumbup:
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Awesome contribution on your part. Five motobirds!
:mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird :mbird
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This is so cool, I'm really stoked to hear about your progress. I'm really thinking about doing this on my K100. I'd love to see all the documentation and info you put together on this.
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Good topic. Im new here. My intended projeKt would use mega/microsquirt to replace L-Jetronic, though I'm fond of the analog air-flap meter's steam-punk-ish-ness.
Thanks for posting the info and experience.
Mark
Oregon
Now: 2004 R1150R Rockster, 2007 F800S
Then: R850R, R1100R, R1150R, R1200C, Buell, crotch rockets
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I will be switching my bike over to microsquirt (Module). I am helping my friend megasquirt him and his dad's '68 camaro, and he is swapping my megasquirt for a microsquirt module. I will be able to fit the whole assembly into a project box, and clean up a lot of the wiring, with a smaller package for the whole thing.
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Was just wondering what sort of average/overal MPG you managed to get with the megasquirt?
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Was just wondering what sort of average/overal MPG you managed to get with the megasquirt?
Still working on that, as I haven't had a chance to take a long ride yet, without warmups and tuning. Currently, its about the same or a little lower than as previous, but that is with more aggressive application of throttle/brakes, and sitting warmup. I am close to getting the warmup curve tuned, so I should be able to ride while warming it up, which should reduce fuel use a lot.
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Almost done with the microsquirt box. Will post pics when it is done. Quite proud of the design of the ancillary components, managed to cram the microsquirt module, wideband controller, bluetooth, a 15 amp relay, and a breakout board with screw terminals for everything into a 4x7x2 box.
I may also set up the microsquirt to control ignition as well. I can add the 3 or so degrees at higher rpm, and keep it retarded for smoother running at low rpm.
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I would think that you would want more advance @ lower rpms and then retard @ higher....
BTW - I am MegaSquirting my '83 280 ZXT after putting on a larger turbo than the upgraded one I currently have and adding an intercooler, so am very interested in doing this to my '85 K100 too.
I have already purchased everything but shock for paralever suspension and have purchased 4v forks & front end minus rotors and wheels.
I have too many projects...
Really digging the info!
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I finally had some time to put some more together. Got it 90% wired in this evening. This is the box, with all components. Includes the wideband controller, bluetooth, and a 15 amp relay.
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Gotta do a couple changes. The Wideband O2 controller (bottom Left) draws too much power from the 5v rail of the microsquirt module (top Left) so the Voltage regulator is heating up. So now I need to do a little re-wiring to take the power from a separate voltage regulator on the bluetooth interface board (Bottom right).
Unfortunately, all of it has to wait a while, as school is taking up too much time. :deal:
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I got a bit of time today, and put the last bit together. Had to make a circuit with a pullup resistor and a diode to supply a clean ignition signal.
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i love what yer doing..........just wish i understood it.....:)
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Next steps in this project: I'm going to add ignition control and use a MAF sensor, and switch the wiring board to a custom printed circuit with built in bluetooth and wideband oxygen sensor control.
This will require a custom crank sensor, closer to the type on a car. I will base mine on the one from BSK speedworks (image 1), but with a hall sensor instead of a VR sensor, and a 3d printed housing.
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I would think that you would want more advance @ lower rpms and then retard @ higher....
In keeping with my noticing things many months after they are said...
The lower the RPM the less advance you need for an engine to run smoothly, in fact a lot require the ignition to be retarded ATDC otherwise you get pinking and in some cases stalling and 'popping back' through the inlet.
As the speed increases you require more ignition advance so the burn happens at the right time and pushes the piston down (well, ok, across in a k-block, whatever, toward the crank) - if you retard the ignition at higher RPM all you get is less power as the bulk of the burn is happening when the piston is getting toward the bottom of the stroke, or to be extreme, after BDC and when the piston is heading back up - burnt valves and flamey exhausts ahoy.
In a mechanical distributor system you generally have 2 forms of advance/retard system - centrifugal and vacuum controlled. Both of these - within different speed ranges with some crossover - retard (or leave where it is statically set) the ignition spark at idle and then advance it as the speed increases.
The only time you would want to retard the ignition at higher speed is as a rev-limiter - because it would be 'hit' so rarely in normal use the valve burning isn't a concern.
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Greetings. Say you want to record some mundane systems data from the Jetronic or Bosch ABS like coolant temperature, engine RPM, gear selection, wheel speed. Do the vendors or BMW publish specs and an API for this purpose? Protection from liability tells me NO, but I figure this thread is the place to ask, there are only two hits for "datalogger" at Motobrick.
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Jetronic and Motronic are mostly analogue in nature, so no API or digital interface. You'd have to design a device to interface into the ECU and ICU to create a datalogger. There was a device called U-Diag that was a synchronization and diagnostic tool, but it is no longer available.
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Digital interface silly me. Wonder how BMW does stability control? Thanks rbm.
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Read about it in the Bosch L-jetronic Technica Manual (http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/Educational_sites_bestanden/BOSCH%20L-Jetronic%20Injection%20Manual.pdf).
P.S. Haven't yet found the BMW Fidget Spinner gyro-stabilizer in my K75; guess I'll have to open the ECU and look. :hehehe
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Thanks for the manual, great place for me to start. Meat of it starts on page 19, there must be a diagnostic port on the ECU to tap signals, I'll find it.
There should be three spinners in your ECU, look for X, Y and Z. :yes
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This is a VERY COOL project! Does anyone know if it was ever completed and pictures posted?
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Here's his summary (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=9303.msg75424#msg75424), anyway.