With all of the individual components checked, it was time to go through and see if there were any issues following final assembly.
First off, the small oil leak from the front of the engine, which was tracked back to the oil pressure sensor...
... to fix this the engine oil had to be drained back out before the sensor was removed and replaced with a new unit, but with me being far too clumsy, the wire fitting was broken off, so this was replaced, the connection remade and the rubber boot refitted, so job done.
Next up was a troublesome front brake, it had bled fine but it was creaking when applied. I always start with the worst case and work back from there (sometimes to my benefit, sometimes not so much), so the front wheel had to come off...
... each disc was then removed and inspected in turn, but no warping or other issue, so everything was rebuilt and reassembled, but the creaking persisted.
The calipers were next to be visually checked, but before I got too far into it, I can't say why but I decided to swap the 2 pads over in the right side caliper and on testing it, the creak had completely gone! I'll take that!
I then wheeled the bike out of the garage to check nothing was fouling the steering, to which both the fuel and temperature gauge smacked the infill panel...
... so the mounts for the gauges and handlebar angle were played with until I had free turning bars and I was able to read the dials...
... but during this process, a wire become detached from the ABS switch, so this was soldered back into place...
... and the switch popped back into place.
With that done, that allowed the bike to be run for a while, run it up and down the drive to clear the ABS check and that warning light stopped blinking, and used both brakes to clear that standard warning light too, everything was working lovely!
Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of running the battery started hissing and as soon as I realised, the battery boiled over.
As quickly as I could, it was bike off, grab the garden hose and hosed down the bike, partly to dilute off the battery acid and partly to cool everything down as I suspected fire was a possibility.
Once everything had calmed down a bit, a pair of gloves went on and the battery was removed, thankfully no acid damage.
On investigating the set up, and running the bike on a booster pack, there was no overcharging, so that pretty much ruled out the bike being at fault. The battery was topped up and charged but it failed to hold a charge and one cell was getting really warm, potentially indicating a dead or shorted cell. So a new battery was ordered to replace the failed unit, it was fairly elderly, so I'm not too worried.
While I was waiting for the new battery, I got on with checking the other systems with the aid of a booster pack to run the electricals. I discovered that the windscreen only worked once after powering up then failed to respond to the switch, so this was popped out and it was clear that the common power supply had suffered during the playing around with the handlebars. So, with some blind disconnecting of connectors the wiring for the switch was taken out.
This allowed the wiring to be unsoldered from the switch and both to be tested on the bench. The wiring had no breaks, and the switch was good for the lowering contacts...
... but when switched to the raising contacts there was no continuity.
So the switch was disassembled to allow the contacts to be cleaned, and bent slightly back up, not so far as to stop the switch moving, but enough to ensure good contact.
From here the switch was reassembled, electrically tested and found to be good, before put back into place on the bike and tested to make sure it was all good.
The next item on the list was the OEM tool kit...
... which was in good order, with nothing missing, so it was put straight into the tail fairing.
Lastly I ran through the bike to check as many bits as I could ahead of the MOT roadworthiness test here in the UK. It is rather handy the UK Government publish the test parameters online!
Thankfully only a few bits to do, such as a red rear reflector...
... and onto adjusting the headlight aim.
To do this I rolled the bike back so the bike was 3.8m from the back wall of the garage and measured the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground and marked this on the window frame as a reference. I was then able to adjust the headlight from being far too low, to just about right via the adjustment knob in the back, bottom right hand side of the headlight, while sat on the bike to s better level.
Although I can test the brakes work, unfortunately I can't test brake efficiency or emissions before the test without specialist kit, so we'll have to see what comes back from the test on that.
Either way, that's the bike as ready for the test as it can be, so it was booked in, just have to wait for the test now!
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