Chinese master cylinder followup.
September 2022, and my rear master cylinder has become impossible to bleed. Looks like a seal problem, so I bought a new one via the usual source. About $20.
It arrived today, so I removed the existing one and examined it. Looked inside the bore and it looked OK. The cups looked OK. Reassembled it and played with it. The action felt a little grabby and the piston more often than not would not fully return to the rest position. This meant that the piston cup would not travel back past the small hole that feeds more fluid into the cylinder when the piston is at rest. This would cause my symptoms.
I suspect that when I adjusted the operating rod I did not allow any play, and that in fact I had adjusted it so that the piston was held off its seat with the feed hole maybe obstructed. Vibration during subsequent use may have caused a tiny ridge to have formed in the bore, and this ridge may have resulted in the piston sticking when not fully home.
Rather than fiddle around with the old master cylinder I fitted the new one. Shortened the operating rod, tapped out the hole on the other end to m10x1.25, and left an obvious amount of play between the operating rod and the pedal. Problem solved. $20.
I thought that the last MC that I fitted was 11mm bore, so I bought that size again. Turns out that the old one was 14mm, so if the new one really is 11mm I now have a higher hydraulic advantage. This means that for a given pressure on the pedal I will have greater pedal travel and higher fluid pressure. In the workshop the pedal travel seems the same. A road test will reveal all. Now, if it would only stop raining.