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The Mercedes Benz definition of a micro-encapsulated screw is, "factory bolts that have on them a Loctite type of chemical (usually blue) that prevents bolts from getting loose in high vibration and shock applications." It's safe to believe BMW shares that particular definition. What that definition told me and what I did when I replaced the side stand bushing through which the screw is inserted, was to clean off remnants of old Loctite from the screw, clean the screw with solvent, then reapply Loctite Blue 242 which, confoundingly enough, is packaged in a red tube. So far—50,000 miles—so good.
 :laughing4-giggles:

What is also desirable is having limited slop in that bushing's fit with the screw and the center stand leg. Removing excess rust within the hollow side stand and center stand legs could be helpful, and verifying that the rubber caps of the center stand and rubber foot of the side stand are sealed well to inhibit moisture incursion at those points are also important. All these measures lessen the chances of the stands' weakening from rust until the stands collapse while you're parking in front of a crowd of idle onlookers and dump the Brick onto the pavement.
 icon_cheers
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Just working on doing a minor refresh and clean up on a new to me 1995 BMW K75 RT.  I pulled the side stand off the bike (also has a center stand) to soak in rust remover and to clean it up.   Now looking at reinstalling, but in the manual (PDF copy) it indicates the retaining screw (Part 11 in attached pic) are micro-encapsulated and must not be re-used.  Any thoughts on how critical this is or can one make sure it is lubed up well.  It also has the bushing with the grease nipple to lubricate once it is back on the bike. 

I didn't realize it was recommended to not reuse when I had place a couple of previous orders via our BMW dealer in Edmonton.  With shipping costs, etc. it was going to be more expensive to order myself via some of the online suppliers.  I will look at ordering a new retaining screw (Part 11), but hopefully the existing one can be used temporarily.

Thanks for your advice and guidance, it is appreciated.

Kelly
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: New 1995 K75 RT owner
« Last post by k-roc on Today at 10:24:37 AM »
Oops forgot to attach this pic from 2014.

Kelly
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / New 1995 K75 RT owner
« Last post by k-roc on Today at 10:21:13 AM »
Hi, I recently purchased a 1995 BMW K75 RT from a retired colleague who is an avid BMW collector.  I have always coveted a K75, but previously had a 1994 Kawasaki KLR 650, which was purchased in May 2012 after getting my license at 49.  As a kid we had a 1974 Honda ATC90 three wheeler and also rode neighbour's 100-120 cc enduro style bikes on the farm in NE Saskatchewan Canada.  About a year after getting the KLR I got a 1981 Kawasaki k650.  Spent a lot of time wrenching on both.  I sold both and ended up with a new 2016 Yamaha FJ-09 in spring 2016. 

In 2014 I rented a 1993 (I think) BMW K75 from Knopf tours in Heidelberg Germany (https://www.knopftours.com/motorcycles) and road into Austria and then Italy.  It ran like a top even though it has over 100,000 km on it. 

Sold the Yamaha in 2022 as I wasn't riding it much.  The opportunity came up to get my hands on the 1995 K75 RT earlier in May 2024.  The bike has about 24-25,000 miles and during its lifetime when from Maryland in the USA to Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, to the Gulf Islands in British Columbia, before landing in central Alberta in May.  It has an aftermarket front fairing while the radiator fairing with screen seems to be off another version of the K75.  I have attached a few pics.  It appears to be off another model and a small aluminum bracket was placed between the two halves as the fairing itself isn't wide enough to fit on the bike without the bracket.  Overall I like the look of the fairing as it has a bit of a funky look.  Would anyone have an idea of the brand of after market fairing I have?  The serial number check lists it as a 1995 BMW K75 RT, but from all the pics on the internet of this model the bike I now have doesn't have the factory RT fairing set up.

Just going over bike as I need to get an out of province inspection done and wanted to prepare for that as well as just tidy things up a bit.  It had new spark plugs installed, oil and filter change, and new front and back tires before I received it.  When I took off the seat and the rear fairing and base I noted the wiring harness covering was rotted completely so installed some new cable armour over the wiring from the mid part of the bike to the tail end.  The side stand is off and the rust cleaned up by soaking in a rust remover, and did the same for several metal bolts, nuts, etc.  There are some missing rubber grommets which had been replaced with pieces of fuel line hose, etc.  Seems to work ok.  Have ordered multiple bits and pieces (e.g. rear gas tank rubber grommets and circlips, etc.) some of which the dealer has to bring in from Germany.  My colleague recommended a number of suppliers (EME, KpartsHolland, Beemer Bone yard etc.) and it has been fun searching through to look at what parts, etc. are available. 

I am looking at removing the gas tank to check on the wiring condition, etc. and then will look at doing the spine clean and lube (front portion and the rear differential) as well as change the gear oil in front and back.  Fortunately I can come here to ask some questions, while also having the CLYMER manual as well as a PDF of the factory service manual. 

I am planning on going through the list of items checked as part of the out of province inspection to help limit surprises.   

Attached are pics of the new to me K75 and a couple of shots of the K75 rented from Knopf rentals in 2014.

Hope to have the bike fully licensed next week.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Last post by TriSpark on Today at 10:04:02 AM »
Thanks guys - I appreciate the suggestions. I will check the wiring from the sender again. I may ultimately have to get a new one I suspect, but will try the cheap solutions first. Bike has done 118K so it may just be worn out or maybe close to failing anyway.
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 You need either a longer T25 bit or a T25 driver to get the sensor off.

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Thanks!  I managed to get the calipers rebuilt.  I rebuilt the right one without disconnecting the abs sensor wire.  Flushed the brake fluid starting at the ABS unit and then the front calipers.

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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by Scott_ on Today at 03:22:31 AM »
Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.
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