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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Converting a monolever K75 or K100 to a paralever final drive

« Last post by Laitch on May 14, 2024, 10:34:13 PM »

BMW doesn't require exact alignment so neither should you. When in doubt, check a manual. You must calculate how far off-center it is. Once you've got that figure, you'll be able to calculate the thickness of shim to get it within spec. Attached is an extract from the K1, K100 4V manual explaining alignment calculation and showing the permitted paralever alignment offset value which is outlined in red. I don't know how much concern folks have for the alignment once the conversion is done. Doesn't seem like much to me.

The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Converting a monolever K75 or K100 to a paralever final drive

« Last post by davellis447 on May 14, 2024, 09:10:05 PM »

I recently upgraded my bike to a paralever swing arm, shock and drive shaft. Problem is the rear wheel sits about a half inch to the right of center. I assume this is caused by not having ABS on my K75s and the doner bike having ABS. Does anyone know exactly how far off center it is and what spacer thickness would be needed to get it on center line? Also, would I need longer wheel bolts to make this work?

FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / FS:K75s and K75c Misc. Parts

« Last post by Tifental on May 14, 2024, 01:23:11 PM »

I have lots of K75s and K75c parts left over from a build. The K75c parts are from a 1990 and the K75s from a 1988. I want them out of my garage, so I'm making deals. I know the shipping will be high so I'm making allowances. Look at the pictures, if you see something your interested in send me an E-Mail and I'll give you details (Pictures, Weight and shipping cost) Like I said I want this stuff gone. E-Mail Talkeetnathreads@gmail.com

The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Popping Brick, Only kinda runs on Starting fluid?

« Last post by bitsa on May 14, 2024, 12:59:26 PM »

Given the machine pops on starting fluid it's reasonable to assume we have spark, if the plugs are dry after you've checked Laitch's suggestion then I'd be sticking a multimeter across the injectors and checking if they're being told to inject fuel.

If they're wet & no hint of trying to fire (but if it still pops on ether) then I'd be inclined to check firstly timing & then compression.

The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Popping Brick, Only kinda runs on Starting fluid?

« Last post by Laitch on May 14, 2024, 12:03:59 PM »

Quote from: schrocketeer on May 13, 2024, 12:17:29 PM

You can hear the fuel pump kick on, after I turn the key to On.

That isn't supposed to happen. The pump on a 2V Brick only starts when the fuel injection relay is transmitted signal from the Hall sensor when the engine is cranking, not before. The wiring from the ignition control unit to the fuel injection relay, the fuel injection relay, some weird wiring from the previous owner, or the ignition control unit itself all could be possible sources of this condition.

Regarding Harris's video:It's possible the piston rings could be seized and lubricating would release them, but that doesn't resolve the faulty behavior of the relay. Are the spark plugs wet or dry after an extended round of cranking?