Post by: Timbox on February 19, 2018, 09:54:27 PM
Yesterday I tool the old BMW batter out, opened up the top and she looked really dry. I had some batter acid saved from other projects and filled it up. I left it on the charger over night, I was happy to see 100% on the charger this morning. I pulled the charger and will get back to the batter later to see if it holds a charge in a cold WI shed.
While the batter was doing it's thing, I opened the gas tank to smell some varnished up gas. The tank looked good from the outside, so I was hoping no bottom rust and the tank was hold gas with no leaks. Drained the gas and then went for the key.
I smiled when the lights came on when i turned the key, was really happy that all the lights, switches, blinkers and even the horn worked. I knew that I would have a issue with the fuel system thought.
Today I pulled of the Plastic to get to the injectors to see what they looked like. That was a little more work then I thought it would be and a lot of BP blaster, compressed air and leverage.
Injectors and inside of tank look bad, I will hit the tank with a few gallons of white vinegar to let it soak, I think that everything in there is toast and will have to be replace, but from all the nice posts I have reading the vinegar really does the trick.
I have a ultrasonic cleaner and I see many are using a 9v battery and some injector cleaner in the ultrasonic cleaners, I hope mine come back to life.
Want to thank the many that have come before me with their Brick projects, making me feel better and giving me some confidence with mine. I will continue to keep reading as I go and keep my questions to a minimum. Lots of nice posts out there that I am very thankful for.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4748/40302857312_eaededfa0a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pqFmd)20180218_155240[1] (https://flic.kr/p/24pqFmd) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/39450912095_0c6e7918a4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2379eHz)20180218_155230[1] (https://flic.kr/p/2379eHz) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4607/39473553805_d2c04df068_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2399hiT)20180219_162726[1] (https://flic.kr/p/2399hiT) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/40370655421_4125ce1e75_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24vqan8)20180219_162740[1] (https://flic.kr/p/24vqan8) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/39473543105_88d81190bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2399e8p)20180219_162750[1] (https://flic.kr/p/2399e8p) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/25498256617_9bb75c9583_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ERcem6)20180219_162805[1] (https://flic.kr/p/ERcem6) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: Supershooter on February 19, 2018, 10:01:46 PM
Tim,
Muratic Acid and water also makes and effective solvent for cleaning the inside of your tank. It worked great when cleaning mine
Supershooter
Post by: Martin on February 19, 2018, 11:52:41 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Timbox on February 20, 2018, 06:30:45 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4754/40389228881_84406f71a8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24x4mBc)20180220_151451[1] (https://flic.kr/p/24x4mBc) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
This is after lots of rags, compressed air and a wet dry vac to get most of the nasty stuff off.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/26518132478_a44fa0cbd1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GpjmUE)20180220_154422[1] (https://flic.kr/p/GpjmUE) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
So got the vinegar in the tank and injectors in the sonic cleaner. I tried to get the injectors firing with some 12v hits but didn't feel or hear anything. I hope that once they are out of the sonic I can hit them with some B12 chem cleaner and get them working.
Post by: Supershooter on February 20, 2018, 08:56:25 PM
Supershooter
Post by: Timbox on February 21, 2018, 12:52:31 PM
Been doing lots of reading on the FEP install and it will be interesting to see how it goes. I know the tank is starting to look good already but I will let is soak for some time. Great links and options, wondering if I should go with the fuel line mod around the pump or some fuel foam/sponge. I have been reading it is critical to mount the new pump low enough in the support so you don't rob yourself of fuel on corners, when the tank is low.
Still wondering if I will be able to do anything with the low fuel indicator in the tank, it looks bad. I read through and bookmarked that great post on how to check it. Once I open the bottom of the tank up and see how those wires are doing, I guess we will see.
Sense I picked this bike up as a non runner, I don't really want to jump into the rest (brakes, final drive ect) until I get her running. Then I can really dive into it and start to work on all the little things that make the bike safe.
Post by: Martin on February 21, 2018, 03:59:36 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Timbox on February 21, 2018, 06:28:34 PM
A fuel injector shop told me they use acrylic thinners to clean them. I had a couple that refused to operate but the thinners got them going. Be warned thinner fumes softened the lid on my ultrasonic cleaner, and as a precaution remove the filter screens and "O" rings. :hehehe But it still works and the lid has hardened up.
Regards Martin.
Yes thanks, I just used the heat and the vinegar and it worked just fine. I lent my sonic cleaner out to a friend and they used some chem in it and more or less did what you described. It still works but not meant to have the harsher chem cleaners in it. I have used concentrated lemon juice when I was doing my carb jets and then for parts I normally do supper clean.
As for the varnish in the injectors, I really wanted to use the chem stuff but went with vinegar and the heat from the machine. I would take them out after a few cycles and then hit them with the 9v. Had them in hand to feel and listen for the "click". All four of the are "clicking" now but have not had the inner part cleaned with a varnish cleaner. Should be warm enough to get back out to the shed to see if I can pass fluid through them.
Post by: Martin on February 22, 2018, 02:03:17 AM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Timbox on February 22, 2018, 08:38:45 PM
Put all the "O" rings from the injectors in some Mystery oil to let them soak as I plan on using them again. Really cleaned the injector mounting ports on the head, wow can that be nasty. I was really glad that I read the part about blasting them with air and checking the little spaces with a fine flat tip. Lots of road grime in that area.
I also got a chance to bleed front and back brakes with new Dot 4. Checked and filled the final drive and checked the air box/cleaner. The High/Low headlight switch needs some looking at and I am sure PB blaster or other lube.
Looks the the fluid in the radiator is a little low, not too much but needs to be topped off. I also need to adjust the clutch as there is no slack on the clutch handle. Saw a great Vid on how to do as well, but not too sure how smoothly that will go. Then adjusting the kickstand lever should be done...from what I read.
Getting all the paper work together, printing out the pics and double checking my statement on all the forms for the Bonded title. I will send that off before the weekend. My last one took about four weeks I think to hear back from them. This time I feel a little more comfortable sense I have been through the process before.
More pics and progress as the parts come in and if the temps stay warmer.
Post by: Martin on February 22, 2018, 08:57:47 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Timbox on February 23, 2018, 11:55:32 AM
Still would be cool to see on a vid...I might have to search youtube for that. :)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 23, 2018, 12:22:42 PM
Post by: Timbox on February 25, 2018, 01:05:45 PM
Still stuff in the tank, will have to get some accetone and compressed air to get the rest of of it out. The BMW fuel pump is done! I had it in the sonic with heat for hours. Looks like it was going to work as all the nasty varnish came out of it. I hit it with + - and then - + and it will bump but not run. I will keep working on it for a while but the other pump should be here soon.
As for the fuel line, most of you get away with 12" from the FEP to the filter? Looks like it needs to be longer then that, and for now I can't find it in longer length.
Should warm up here in the next few days and I will be able to get back to the bike, need this tank cleaned up first and then get the rest of the fuel system cleaned up. SuperShooter is leading the way for me in doing the same and showing me places that still might be all mucked up.
Post by: Timbox on February 27, 2018, 06:22:58 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4677/26654228398_098a3a515c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GBkTu3)Clean Tank (https://flic.kr/p/GBkTu3) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4658/40525310271_9286d3f9ed_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24K5NS4)Clean tank 1 (https://flic.kr/p/24K5NS4) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
This pic is not so good, but a K&N crank case breaker could be modded for this fuel filter ...maybe, I have no idea if it would hold up to the fuel.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4768/40525307031_75fdb0d8b8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24K5MUc)$10 pump (https://flic.kr/p/24K5MUc) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/40525304981_a97f51f5a6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24K5MhR)$10 pump 2 (https://flic.kr/p/24K5MhR) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
I will also need some new "O" rings for the injectors, if someone has a part number for me or I will look and find them.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/38715183110_71a67e633d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Z8r85)Injector in need of O rings (https://flic.kr/p/21Z8r85) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Now come the good but maybe bad news. After letting the BMW fuel pump sit with PB blast in it, that old pump started to work. I have the NAPA pump on order and think I will use it. My question is would it be wise to use the old BMW pump?
If so I think I would need a new fuel pump filter.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4619/25654935077_09e2fdbbf7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F63foR)Old pump filter (https://flic.kr/p/F63foR) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: Filmcamera on February 27, 2018, 09:05:10 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 28, 2018, 01:37:36 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 28, 2018, 06:06:56 AM
. . . a K&N crank case breaker could be modded for this fuel filter ...maybe, I have no idea if it would hold up to the fuel.Immersing a vapor breather in fuel for use as a pump pre-filter is not a good idea. Use parts designed for the application.
My question is would it be wise to use the old BMW pump?
You have ordered a fuel pump. Does it come with a pre-filter? Is it made for immersion?
I bought a dozen injectors for the K100 for like $15 on eBay.Injectors, or injector o-rings? People are disappointed enough by the time they get here, Gryph. :giggles A couple of o-ring alternatives can be found in the Alternate Parts section of the Repair Guidance section, too.
Post by: Timbox on February 28, 2018, 08:00:10 AM
Thanks for the input and great ideas, I did order some of of ebay last night but as was stated, might not work but it could. Reading S S post looks like I could either get lucky or I could be trouble shooting all the little parts of the fuel system.
I was really surprised at how much the "O" rings swelled when I had them soaking in the Mystery Oil. Normally that oil does wonderfully with that job. I will go out today and see if I can find some at at a local auto store, after look at the alternate parts page that Leitch pointed out.
Post by: Timbox on February 28, 2018, 08:36:43 AM
"The 0-rings for the fuel injectors on a 1990 Mustang 302 c.i. engine gauge out the same as the new ones Mr. Injector had installed. And they were available for $2.89 for four at a local parts store.
Larry Johnson
NAPA Part number: FPG ES70599"
BWD Fuel Injector Seal Kit from O'Reilly Auto Parts Part #274571 One kit per injector. $1.69 and they worked great!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 28, 2018, 11:24:24 AM
Injectors, or injector o-rings? People are disappointed enough by the time they get here, Gryph. :giggles
OMG! I'd hate to disappoint anyone seeking an answer here. Posting is fixed.
O-rings for the injectors.
Post by: Timbox on February 28, 2018, 05:37:27 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25672910947_fbfde4d634_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F7CnZD)Pump in jug to run bike (https://flic.kr/p/F7CnZD) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
I was still not happy with the gas tank and how I am going to mount the pump in the tank, so I just bypassed the gas tank. Ran the pump off a battery just to flush the fuel rail and all the other hoses, reg and anything I could have missed. Slapped a inline fuel filter on the return line just in case.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4632/25672908907_26ebb5ef03_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F7Cnot)Pump and fuel return (https://flic.kr/p/F7Cnot) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Did find out that there was no power going through the four wire connector. Did a little looking and there was no 15A fuse that would normally power it. Once I cleaned all the fuse and replaced the 15A missing fuse, everything worked great. I think that my low fuel device is working too, it is up and open or down and shorted, so that should work.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/40543970221_39b3c321c7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LJrPk)Bypass the gas tank (https://flic.kr/p/24LJrPk) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 01, 2018, 10:08:01 AM
Post by: Timbox on March 01, 2018, 10:30:49 AM
As I have said before, you just never know what one of these project bikes after sitting for yrs (10) is going to do when she starts. I was surprised to see that once you hit the start button that the fuel pump turns on and stays on until the bike is turned off. I guess that is a good thing if you want to use any additives in the gas, sure will mix it well.
Thanks for sharing the pic, that is funny and I can relate. ;)
Post by: Timbox on March 02, 2018, 06:59:31 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/39687698245_b39e4f1a74_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23t4PZp)New Battery (https://flic.kr/p/23t4PZp) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
I also tried to mount the seat to see if it will work. I can get it to lock and fit correctly but not with the back hinge on.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/25711552407_13e12b2a8a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3qKH)Seat 2 (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3qKH) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
The front right hinge is broken and I tired to weld a longer post on it to help support and line up the seat, no luck.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4773/25711547777_cb19bdd8f1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3pnT)Seat 3 (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3pnT) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr I could see welding the "L" to the frame to make it work...maybe.
I also think this hinge is bend and I know it is missing the two "C" clips to hold it in place. Top post looks to not be sticking out far enough for a "C" clip to even work.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4630/38771992980_def17cf181_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2259AHA)Seat 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2259AHA) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
So if anyone can post a pic of what it should look like (a RS) under the seat, that would be great.
As for the fuel pump, still no luck, hoping NAPA will have in Saturday.
I am also thinking of not putting the OEM front turn signals back on. I have been reading that they tend to fall off on bumps and if they are bumped. I will have to look at some flush mounted signals and then get some handle bar mirrors. I tent to like those mirrors better anyway as I will be able to see behind me.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 02, 2018, 07:10:01 PM
P.O. may have bent the seat support to make it fit a bit better. On all of my bikes the support doesn't quite look right in the way it aligns with the attachment points.
As fara as the mirrors/turn signals, I have seen photos of bikes that have had flush mount LED signals and bar-mounted mirrors and to be honest, they make the bike look a lot better with a sleeker, modern look. One of the retrofits used a triangular fixture that was a perfect fit onto the flat area where the original mirror attached. It didn't require any modification of the fairing beyond drilling two holes for the screws that held it on. Photos looked like it was a factory job. I think you'll be pleased with your results.
Post by: Martin on March 02, 2018, 07:22:33 PM
Regards Martin.
Seat Pin and Hook.jpg (22.77 kB . 432x576 - viewed 629 times)
Post by: Timbox on March 02, 2018, 11:02:47 PM
Yes I think I will go with the flush mount signals and now to find some mirrors that will fit. Unlike the other metric bikes I have worked on, I think the mirror post or holes on the bars are not threaded. That will be interesting to find them. Did you happen to have the post of the triangle type signal?
These might work: https://www.motosport.com/lockhart-phillips-turn-six-signal
Martin
As for the welding, yes all the bikes main components will be removed or unhooked. Have heard horror stories about people losing ECU's or the brain box ect...
Will be interesting to see how I work this seat in issue, but I think maybe removing the back right hand rail plastic and then I would be able to fit seat and mount up the "L" or what ever bracket that is.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 02, 2018, 11:41:00 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Flush-Mount-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Amber-for-Motorcycle-zu/253137660450?hash=item3af02e2a22:g:wScAAOSw9ENZn4M2&vxp=mtr
I don't know if they are the same size, although from looking at a lot of them, I suspect that there is not a lot of size diffference. The number of LED's varies from 9 to 11 or 12.
One thing I have noticed is that they use some plastics that may not hold up long term in strong sunlight and might have to have to be replaced every couple of years, but for the price it doesn't look like a hard hit, and they are easy to change.
Some of the signals on eBay are cheap enough that 3 or 4 pairs can cost less than a single BMW turn signal lens.
Post by: Timbox on March 07, 2018, 10:53:17 PM
I am sure I will have to order a new or used low fuel unit, I will get the new gasket that way too and stop the leak that I am sure was there from the PO. Got some fuel safe foam coming so I can mount the fuel pump into the OEM vibration holder and feel good that it will not flop around. I just don't feel good about using the old unit sense it was sitting in bad gas for all those yrs. It is working great but sense I am going through all this time with cleaning the tank, new should be in order.
Post by: Laitch on March 07, 2018, 11:08:02 PM
I just don't feel good about using the old unit sense it was sitting in bad gas for all those yrs. It is working great but sense I am going through all this time with cleaning the tank, new should be in order.The o-ring gasket costs eight bucks plus shipping from MAXBMW. Have you seen this article (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender)?
Nothing wrong with buying new parts though. :euro Why buy used if your sender is working? Try cleaning it according to the article. Then buy one. :giggles
Post by: Timbox on March 08, 2018, 07:37:43 AM
I have read that article and even thought I could do the "refresh". The yellow wire that came off the back broke down in the plastic (pic to follow). The wiper area that looks like it is toast. The wires that make up the wipe area are all broken and would continue to deteriorate and end up in the tank. I am sure the pump strainer and then the fuel filter would take care of it, but I think that it is just gone.
The yellow wire that is a larger gauge wire that powers the fuel pump is the wire that broke off. The location of the broken connector in the plastic sealed part of the bottom of the sending unit. I just feel better replacing that unit as it really is weathered and should give me a little more confidence to take the brick on long rides.
Thanks for all the good links and articles to keep me reading and learning on the brick.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4795/39830172075_97b760bc2d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23FE3uK)20180307_155239[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23FE3uK) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Here is the pic of the broken power wire :(
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4796/39830167285_a02770ef98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23FE25a)20180308_112213[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23FE25a) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: Timbox on March 12, 2018, 07:05:04 PM
Post by: Timbox on March 14, 2018, 07:02:59 PM
I even got the aftermarket front blinkers on today and have them working, they don't look that great "like they should be there" but better then putting the old mirrors on and then loosing them. I did have to mod the mounts to allow for the original screws to hold the plastic in that area. I thought if I just put the signals on over the holes that I would really shake up the front of the bike.
Now I need to get those mirrors that go on the bars and I will be legal. Need to find some aftermarket type either on ebay or Amazon. Once I get her down the road once I will open up the rear spindle and see how that looks. I have to get some metric screws to hold that wind screen in too. So any good ideas of mirrors that mount on the bars, not bar end mirrors, tried those and not used to that. Over the shoulder ones are what I am used to.
Post by: Laitch on March 14, 2018, 09:40:58 PM
So any good ideas of mirrors that mount on the bars, not bar end mirrors, tried those and not used to that. Over the shoulder ones are what I am used to.Check out this link (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10432.0.html). Depending on what you get you might need to tap existing holes in the lever assemblies.
Post by: Supershooter on March 18, 2018, 10:20:29 PM
its always a good feeling to hear them run!
SS
Post by: Timbox on March 19, 2018, 08:49:24 AM
I could work on that seat issue, as the hinge is not working and or broke on the right side of the bike as it slides into the rear right body panel. I am thinking some kind of "0" or tube like device that I can weld to the frame. I will disconnect the battery, and all other plugs that go into important things before I weld. I just don't think the rear body panel would do a good job of holding that seat in place.
SupperShooter, if you could take a good pic of how your RS seat goes into that back body panel that would be great...if not that is cool too.
Post by: Supershooter on March 19, 2018, 09:35:03 PM
Progress has been limited by adult responsibilities, and a lack of tools, I plan on picking up a test light this week in my travels and hope to get back in the shop after that to check injectors.
As far as pics, i'll send you are many as you'd like but I have a 85 RT, just let me know if still want want some pics.
Supershooter
Post by: Laitch on March 20, 2018, 07:25:48 AM
I also think this hinge is bend and I know it is missing the two "C" clips to hold it in place. Top post looks to not be sticking out far enough for a "C" clip to even work.The seat support is bent but from what I see in the image, the OEM clip should be able to fit into the groove of its top pin.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4630/38771992980_def17cf181_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2259AHA)
Post by: Timbox on March 20, 2018, 07:44:21 AM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4773/25711547777_cb19bdd8f1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3pnT)Seat 3 (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3pnT) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Here is what it looks like with the broken part off. It looks like it goes into the rear body panel, but I am thinking it needs to be mounted to the frame for support.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/25711542017_76a44c244f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3nEz)Seat 4 (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3nEz) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: Laitch on March 20, 2018, 08:49:11 AM
I get that middle seat stop and or holder open hinge . . .I sure didn't get that you got much, from what you wrote anyway. If one of the layabouts here can't come up with a visual for you right now, I'll post one up in 20 minutes as soon as return from the shop.
Post by: Laitch on March 20, 2018, 11:04:45 AM
Rear hinge and bracket closeup.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104111-10141039.jpeg)
Rear hinge and bracket.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104110-1012365.jpeg)
Rear hinge and bracket.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104110-1012372.jpeg)
Center hinge pin assembly and support arm.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104108-10101579.jpeg)
Center hinge pin and bracket viewed from front of bike. Arrow indicates pin center.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104108-1010759.jpeg)
Center hinge pin bracket attachment bracket and bolt within rectangle. Arrow indicates support arm.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-200318104105-10081755.jpeg)
Post by: alabrew on March 20, 2018, 06:16:09 PM
Here is what it looks like with the broken part off. It looks like it goes into the rear body panel, but I am thinking it needs to be mounted to the frame for support.(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/25711542017_76a44c244f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3nEz)Seat 4 (https://flic.kr/p/Fb3nEz) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Yes, the pin is attached to the frame behind the rear body panel and held with a circle clip. The seat hinge should also have circle clips top and bottom.
Thanks for making me look at my seat. I thought that the Corbin only had the one attachment point in the middle, but I see that there is a rear hinge too that was not connected. Would make the seat more difficult to remove since you would need a hex wrench, especially on the side of the road, which may be why to PO did not have it bolted.
Post by: Laitch on March 20, 2018, 06:55:53 PM
The seat hinge should also have circle clips top and bottom. I thought that the Corbin only had the one attachment point in the middle, but I see that there is a rear hinge too that was not connected. Would make the seat more difficult to remove since you would need a hex wrench, especially on the side of the road, which may be why to PO did not have it bolted.My bike's Corbin had a rear pin/circlip style attachment that enabled the rear seat hinge to slide off the pin just like the OEM assembly and the center hinge—no hex wrench needed. The middle hinge pin has only one circlip. It's the support arm that has top and bottom circlips.
I sold my Corbin because the bucket shape was too confining. If Tim contacts Corbin, they'll clear up the confusion.
Post by: Timbox on March 20, 2018, 09:04:10 PM
Post by: rbm on March 20, 2018, 09:10:13 PM
Front most pivot pin on right side of the frame. The pivot pin is "S" shaped and you can just catch the 90° bend in the pin as it disappears behind the tail piece. That pin is welded to the frame. It should have a circlip on the end but I just can't get the seat hardware adjusted properly to attach the clip. It works fine without it.:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/au6qly.jpg)
You asked what you're missing. The pin shown in your picture labelled "Seat 3" is the remnant of the pivot pin that should be welded to the frame. It appears to have been cut off and left in the hinge piece, from the looks of things. I think you will have to manufacture a brand new pivot pin and weld it to your frame.
The latch and the front most pivot attachment with the seat stay:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/6pw1l2.jpg)
The rear most pivot hardware. On mine, there is a pin that goes through and gets secured with a circlip. To remove the seat, I first disengage the seat stay, then I remove that circlip, push out the pin towards the front of the bike and lift the seat off the front most pivot.:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/11rfwhl.jpg)
Another closeup of the front most pivot hardware showing the seat stay secured with a circlip:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/29p90up.jpg)
The seat stay collapsed with the seat in the closed position:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/263c2td.jpg)
Post by: alabrew on March 20, 2018, 10:30:11 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 12:54:31 AM
So what part am I missing from the attached? I have no clue from this parts list.Even though that diagram is from Clymer and BMW, it is of an earlier seat than your stock bike had. Regardless, like rbm stated, the hinge pin has been severed. It is simply a piece of cold-rolled or hot-rolled round rod bent in a modified Z-shape. The top leg of the Z faced forward. The bottom leg of the Z was welded to the same gusset to which the shock was attached. MIG welding should be easy enough to do. Bending the round rod should be a piece of cake. Take off the seat and you should be able to view its remnant rearward of the shock. Grind it smooth and weld the replacement you make at the same angle by pivoting the Z outward, tacking it then welding it.
As you reassemble your bike, you should bear in mind that if you are not genetically predisposed to make all your bike's surfaces tidy enough to dine on has rbm has done, you will go mad in the attempt.
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 12:57:09 AM
Here are Corbin's instructions: www.corbin.com/bmw/kbikeinstall.jpg (http://www.corbin.com/bmw/kbikeinstall.jpg)Corbin's instructions are "Call Corbin", according to that link. :clap:
Post by: Timbox on March 21, 2018, 07:29:51 AM
Thanks for the great pics on a supper clean bike! That and the explanation of how it is welded to the frame really helped. :clap: I have the tools for MIG welding so I will be able to take care of this myself.
As for the rest of the replys, thank for all the help on the seat matter, has been driving me nuts. Now I will have to remove the rear affects and then line the seat up and prep the metal. All $$ cost electrical items on the bike will need to be unplugged so I will not fry anything. Thanks again for giving me the great pics and celerity for me to take on this job.
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 10:21:47 AM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-210318100533.png)
Post by: Timbox on March 21, 2018, 10:34:21 AM
I plan on getting to the shed sometime this afternoon and moving some projects around. Need to get the K1 onto the lift table to look at the spine and then see if I can make out where the brake of that seat weld was. Good to know that it is on the frame...so what is that little hole in the body panel for? (Don't answer that)
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 11:00:27 AM
Good to know that it is on the frame...so what is that little hole in the body panel for? (Don't answer that)Too late. If you are asking about the hole in the frame gusset, I put the hook of one of my lift straps through it to stabilize the bike on the lift. Otherwise, :dunno2: .
Post by: Filmcamera on March 21, 2018, 02:27:22 PM
Just in case you needs bits still
Seat Hardware (https://www.fakebook.com/groups/1632648070302094/?multi_permalinks=2072284803005083¬if_id=1521642214335505¬if_t=group_activity&ref=notif)
Post by: blakey on March 21, 2018, 06:31:14 PM
I believe it was a tie-down point used by the factory when shipping the bikes out.
Post by: Timbox on March 21, 2018, 09:24:20 PM
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/808/40906198402_3bde5978da_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25jJXCN)20180321_122553 (https://flic.kr/p/25jJXCN) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Both ends seem to look to in good shape and only need to be re-greased.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/26075334457_b5425129fe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FJbUu2)20180321_123734 (https://flic.kr/p/FJbUu2) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
This little trick is from a youtube vid I watched and said to plug the hollow part so the grease will not be driven or pulled up the hollow shaft. Letting it dry for a few days before I put grease back on her and button her up.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/783/40906202112_337cec54b8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25jJYJL)20180321_123929 (https://flic.kr/p/25jJYJL) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
So I i know there should be a special grease for the splines but why not high temp bearing grease? Thanks
Post by: thecableguy on March 21, 2018, 10:04:19 PM
The loads that bearings put on grease are far different than those that splines do. For these you need a REALLY REALLY sticky grease with a high Moly content.
Staburags, Honda Moly, Guard Dog, etc are what needs to be on there...
In the end they are your splines. Good luck!
Jim
Post by: Timbox on March 21, 2018, 10:18:15 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 10:23:19 PM
This little trick is from a youtube vid I watched and said to plug the hollow part so the grease will not be driven or pulled up the hollow shaft. Letting it dry for a few days before I put grease back on her and button her up.What did you use to plug the hole and what are you letting dry? Where is the link to the video that inspired you?
Post by: Timbox on March 21, 2018, 10:37:06 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bI5mkHe-p0I
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2018, 11:34:03 PM
Here is the link and it talks about the sealant at about the 4:50 markThanks for the link. I was hoping you'd explain exactly how you made the plug, how much material was used and what brand was used.
Post by: Timbox on March 22, 2018, 10:37:55 AM
Can't get to the bike today but with the temps (I hope in the high 40's) it should dry well. I am waiting on the Moly grease anyway and can't do much...there is that seat thing...hmmm...well for another day.
Post by: Timbox on March 25, 2018, 06:56:08 PM
As for the rest of the bike, it feels good and the engine seemed to be very smooth. Not issues but a little miss but the bike has not been out riding with a load on the engine for 10+ yrs. I would give it some slack with a little miss or surge at first.
Looks like I will have to strip the rest of the front off the bike and take a look at that steering head...good thing it is not riding weather here yet...
Post by: johnny on March 25, 2018, 08:32:47 PM
they all wobble... just some more than others... usually tiors whack or forks in need of flush and fill 1st then onto steering head...
ride dangerously...
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 25, 2018, 08:58:53 PM
Post by: Timbox on March 26, 2018, 05:58:10 AM
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2018, 08:31:20 AM
if it this tior... looks like a rear on the front and the orientation arrow going wrong way... id flush and fill the forks and getts new tiors and metal valve stems and inflate it to sidewall maximum before trying to figger out a wobble...
j o
Post by: Timbox on March 26, 2018, 07:16:18 PM
Man you have a good eye! I will take a look at that and go from there. I did notice that the fork gators were all miss aligned and very hard to move. I put some oil on them to get some play in them and compressed them to a normal looking fork protector. I could tell the difference in the steering just from that...
If that arrow is backwards and it is the tire on the rim issue, that will have to be taken care of :) I don't know if I can just waap around the wheel, as most of you can't.
First spring rain in the area, just hoping that some sand gets of these roads.
Post by: Timbox on March 27, 2018, 02:29:43 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2018, 04:20:37 PM
Post by: Timbox on March 27, 2018, 05:59:25 PM
Post by: johnny on March 28, 2018, 09:36:26 AM
Post by: Timbox on March 30, 2018, 08:26:49 AM
The Final paper work from Wisconsin DMV came back today, now for the phone call to get the Bond on the bike. Send all that in and get the "Bonded title" with the work bond in print on the title for five yrs.
From my reading, if I do this again (no title bike) I think I will try the Vermont registration method for the $35. It seems the best way to do it even thought it just seem strange as I am unfamiliar with that process.
Post by: johnny on March 30, 2018, 09:18:44 AM
this is how i fixt that seat mount issue...
cleaned the paint off the frame... put a 1/4 bolt in the seat part of the hinge screwed into a long 1/4 all thread coupling... with seat in the down position... vice gripped the coupling to the frame... took off the whole shebang except the coupling and vice gripps... welded the coupling to the frame...
put it back together and now instead if that rod and clip... just screw the bolt into the coupling...
ride dangerously...
j o
Post by: Timbox on March 31, 2018, 08:58:07 AM
Post by: Timbox on April 05, 2018, 10:06:34 PM
Thanks again to Johnny for that seat fix idea, worked like a champ!
Post by: Timbox on April 10, 2018, 02:22:13 PM
If winter would loosen it's grip on Wisconsin...and he rest of the Mid West.
Post by: Laitch on April 10, 2018, 02:23:42 PM
Mirrors came in, it is nice to have the bike all legal now and ready for the road, tapped the bar holes so the mirrors would fit.How about posting some photos of the bike with its new mirrors, and closeups of where they are mounted?
Post by: Timbox on April 12, 2018, 07:05:05 PM
I also got the Wisconsin bonded title in the mail today!!! So even thought she was off the books for 10 yrs she has a title and will be back on the road soon. Well that is after the snow and all day of freeing rain!!! Love this early....spring...
Post by: Timbox on April 14, 2018, 05:21:02 AM
Post by: johnny on April 14, 2018, 08:46:21 AM
all motobrick wheels with enough miles on them are bent... they are soft wheels... all of my wheels are bent that you can see it with the naked eye and no wobble...
j o
Post by: Timbox on April 14, 2018, 09:28:50 AM
Post by: Timbox on April 23, 2018, 09:31:12 AM
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/39838934250_ec81576a5d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23GqXbJ)20180416_155616[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23GqXbJ) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/40936048854_bb22ed6fd3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nnX8L)20180416_155606[1] (https://flic.kr/p/25nnX8L) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/39838918050_a0e099409e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23GqSnq)20180416_155552[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23GqSnq) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: Nailhead on April 24, 2018, 10:01:58 AM
Mirrors on the bike.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/39838934250_ec81576a5d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23GqXbJ)20180416_155616[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23GqXbJ) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/40936048854_bb22ed6fd3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nnX8L)20180416_155606[1] (https://flic.kr/p/25nnX8L) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/39838918050_a0e099409e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23GqSnq)20180416_155552[1] (https://flic.kr/p/23GqSnq) by Tim Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156697124@N02/), on Flickr
That actually looks pretty good, better than I had imagined it would!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 24, 2018, 01:20:48 PM
Really, bar mount mirrors and those eBay surface mount LED turn signals can look pretty good on a RS.
Timbox, how's about a photo of the fairing showing the signals and mirrors?
Post by: Timbox on May 05, 2018, 08:44:15 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 05, 2018, 12:21:24 PM
A nice guy and his friend are building a stable in the area, so my brick has a new home.Separation or divorce?
Post by: Timbox on May 16, 2018, 07:00:03 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 16, 2018, 08:00:30 PM