Heavy condensation inside instruments panel K75C

[foliver]

Hi!,
3 days ago, we have had a heavy rain, and the bike was outside.....soaked.
Today, doing 100km distance trip, i turned on the lights, and the transparent acrilic of the instruments gauges, stsrted to condensate, hard!
Here is summer, so, hot.
In one gas station, after refuelling, the red light ( the one that turns off when you apply both brakes) remains on after ignition....
then suddently whe at 60 mph, the speed needle stsrted to wooble, and then stopped working, nothing, dead.
The odometer keeps working.
I assume if i open the gauges and let it dry, all will go to normality, or not?

[Laitch]

if i open the gauges and let it dry, all will go to normality, or not?

Condensation within in the instrument cluster was a problem with the early instrument clusters. The remedy was to create a back panel that had holes into which were inserted Goretex panels, as indicated by the arrows in the attached image.

The modification happened some during the 1986 model run. Those Goretex panels mitigated the problem but if the rubber seal surrounding the rear inside perimeter of the rear panel becomes dry or the screws holding that panel loosen, moisture still creeps inside. My remedy when that fogging happened within my Brick's cluster was to remove the rear panel, allow the interior to dry, spread a thin amount of silicone brake grease onto the seal then screw the cover into place. That fixed it.

The front windows could have cracks or looseness that allow moisture infiltration, but the rear panel seal is the more common problem. Work on that first; it's the simpler task.

[Chaos]

my early '86  had moisture issues, solved it by running a length of electrical tape around it covering the seam where the back panel screws on. 

[foliver]

Hello Laitch and Chaos
I did my homework.
I took it apart and found a lot of water inside, and parts with rust.
I had to recover two parts by soldering a copper wire.
Then polish and apply deoxit to the internal connections.
I let it dry for 2 hours in the sun, and after checking all the bulbs, I opened two holes in the back, and closed them with Goretex that I had bought for that years ago....
Then use a paste to seal gas and water leaks, at the rear panel gasket, over the oring.
Everything works fine, except for the red warning light that must go out with the brakes. Yesterday it stopped working, and stayed on.
I don't know if the fault lies with the cables that go from the brakes to the harness, or the inside of the gauge, which has rust somewhere.
How can I check if the cable switches are working ok?
Thank you both very much for the responses.
Chaos, I used the same principle of sealing that joint

[Past-my-Prime]

One thing not to neglect, before pursuing drastic action: Make sure the brake light works, with both front and rear brake application?

[foliver]

Hi Past, yes stop light turns on when braking from front or rear brakes....
What can be the problem?
It stops working in 10 minutes. I made a stop 5 minutes after leaving home, and voila. It stays on, after that stop

[Past-my-Prime]

My consideration was that there may could be a problem with the BMU (bulb monitoring unit), unrelated to the condensation and water intrusion you experienced. The easiest fix would be if the problem relating to the light staying on would be: no brake light (change the bulb!) or one of the brake light switches isn't engaging consistently. As that light checks for all of these things.

I'm sure a better electrical guru that I will chime in. (Actually, pretty much anyone on here would fit that description).

[foliver]

My consideration was that there may could be a problem with the BMU (bulb monitoring unit), unrelated to the condensation and water intrusion you experienced. The easiest fix would be if the problem relating to the light staying on would be: no brake light (change the bulb!) or one of the brake light switches isn't engaging consistently. As that light checks for all of these things.

I'm sure a better electrical guru that I will chime in. (Actually, pretty much anyone on here would fit that description).

Hello!
Thanks for your reply.
Yesterday the bulb always on, start to dimm, and then turn it off
But it stayed that way, off. As I would broken.
And I need to say that the odometer is not working , that is for sure because of an internal electrical contact, I’ve had this problem in the past.
Now it has the fearing on, uff I’m lazy to dismantle it again.
Next time i’’ll study all the electrical path of the BMU for Shure
Thanks!

[stokester]

Hello!
Thanks for your reply.
Yesterday the bulb always on, start to dimm, and then turn it off
But it stayed that way, off. As I would broken.
And I need to say that the odometer is not working , that is for sure because of an internal electrical contact, I’ve had this problem in the past.
Now it has the fearing on, uff I’m lazy to dismantle it again.
Next time i’’ll study all the electrical path of the BMU for Shure
Thanks!

While the most likely reason for your odometer failure is the water, be sure to check the drive gears.  They deteriorate over time and strip out.

I've had to replace them in both of my K75s.