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Here is a possible scenario that could cause this:

Have you possibly rewired the headlight?
Either at the lamp connector socket itself or at intermediate connector going to the lamp?

The two lamp filaments of course have a common 'ground' - there is no way to separate that.
When wired up correctly, with the High, Low and Ground to the appropriate terminals of the bulb, you get the scenario shown on the left of the diagram below.
Current will only flow through the Low Beam or the High Beam, whichever input is active.

IF however, the Hi and Ground wires to the lamp connector were swapped, you would get the scenario on the right side of the diagram.
What would happen if this were the case is that when the Low Beam is selected, the voltage would be divided across the two filaments and current would flow through BOTH of them
(you would get lower voltage across the High Beam Filament because it has lower resistance vs the Low Beam Filament)
That would ALSO give you approximately 5V OUT on the High Beam wire, enough to make the High Beam Indicator glow
Of course both filaments would actually be on in this scenario, but both with less intensity being at ~ 1/2 voltage on each.
So it might not look that odd.

Then when you go to the High beam, you would get the full 12V across the Hi Beam Filament and to the indicator Lamp
No current would flow through the Low Beam filament in this switch position, only the high beam (& indicator)

I obviously don't know for sure whether this is your problem, however if mis-wired like this, it would certainly give you that exact symptom
Worth checking!
(Simply unplugging the headlight connector will tell you if this is possibly the problem - if the 5V goes away and the LED goes off, it is because of this scenario)

(I've drawn it two different way diagrammatically but they are both the same electrically - not sure which one might be easier for you to follow - in either illustration simply stated the High Beam wire is connected to the Ground Terminal of the Lamp and vice versa)

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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Russell "Day Long" Saddle for K75
« Last post by Rcgreaves on Today at 07:41:16 PM »
Motobrickers All:

I recently purchased K75S #2 from KMEV here, Including this fine but too tall saddle by Russell:

https://day-long.com/gallery/bmw/

As best I can tell they can make this shape or service it but they don't currently show a K75 Saddle on the site. I gather that new this sold for, well,  a lot.  maybe 600$ with your supplied donor seat base tray.  Completed eBay auctions suggest the street price for mine is roughly $275.   So I'll ask Bricksters in the USA please for $250 plus actual shipping via USPS or UPS to your Con. USA doorstep.  supply your zip and I'll remit a shipped price within a couple days.  payment via Paypal, please.  I estimate about $280 shipped...in USA

It has a few well-documented wear spots visible in the pics attached. Otherwise, it's in good condition.  Seat tray is in primo condition.  One more point:  you will need to install your existing hinge pivots etc as I needed them on mine.

Its tall for my 5'7" frame, i was on my "tippy tippy" toes --enough so I reverted to my time-tested Corbin saddle.  This is a MUCH  more comfortable long distance seat than my Corbin and habit forming. If you are 5'9" or taller this would be well suited for you and for my money better in hours 2 and after than any saddle I've tried to date.

Questions? call 4149643077





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The MBdotCOM Community Center / Re: Mods and Rockers Toronto.
« Last post by Adam M on Today at 05:41:42 PM »
See you there.
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greetings...

a well crafted cafe is not faired...

let us hear the conclusion of the whole matter... fear gawd...  and keep his commandments... for this is the whole duty of man...

thou shall not fair a cafe...


j o


 :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
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greetings...

a well crafted cafe is not faired...

let us hear the conclusion of the whole matter... fear gawd...  and keep his commandments... for this is the whole duty of man...

thou shall not fair a cafe...

j o
6
The MBdotCOM Community Center / Re: Mods and Rockers Toronto.
« Last post by rbm on Today at 05:04:50 PM »
I won't be going tonight to the Duke because of the rain.  I will do the ride tomorrow from Loblaws to Keating Channel pub.  The weekend is supposed to be nice according to the Weather Channel reports.  I hope to see you there Adam.
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The MBdotCOM Community Center / Re: Mods and Rockers Toronto.
« Last post by Adam M on Today at 04:57:38 PM »
Thought about visiting tonight a Duke at 1225 Queen St, but weather doesn't look promising - possibility of rain until 8 PM.
But wanted to confirm tomorrow visit at Keating Channel Pub between 12 at 1 PM during main event.
I won't be going to Lowblaws parking lot at Moore, because it's not fun to cross town going there and back from Mississauga.
Tomorrow I will be using my Trident which feels very strange after spending 3 weeks on K75 and getting used to all it's qualities :).
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Managed to put in new fluid and bled the front brakes last night.
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1. If you disconnect the Koso Hi-Beam wire from the output of the BEP do you still get the 5V on the white wire at the input?

2. what happens if you disconnect the connector plug at the headlight itself? Do you still have the 5V or does it go away?
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I use the stock BMW instruments. 

In 60,000 miles of riding I never have trouble starting or getting the neutral indicator to work.  No need to hack up the wiring and add all kinds of electronics boards to get them to work.

On the down side, in the four 30 year old clusters I have owned I did have a burned out bulb that I replaced with LED's.

I have no doubt that the engineers over in Germany built a well crafted unit, but it's just so BIG! I'm going for a cafe look and I just don't think I can hide the 'lunch-box' behind a fairing.

And as far as I can tell if I go with either the BEP 3.0 or the K-Bike BTH, they both are plug and play...no hacking required. Which is something I'm looking for seeing as my wiring skills are not the greatest.

Thanks,
Ray V.
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