The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS

[Laitch]

One of the disks measures .187" and the other .191". Do they need to be exactly the same?

No, they just need to be within spec.

[MaraudeRS]

No, they just need to be within spec.

Excellent. Thank you

If the bike is still near the coast, Martin and I (living in Aust) will vouch for a product INOX.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INOX-MX3-Anti-corrosion-Anti-Moisture-Lubricant-300g-Spray-/221885503238?hash=item33a9681706:g:6vEAAOSwymxVP4b4

It is basically a marine version of WD-40. It  leaves a light oil but is good for stopping further surface rust. WD will dry out (good for bicycle chains)

Stepping up another level, there are the rust converters etc but also something the local hardware sells:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121954393855?lpid=107&chn=ps.

It might do in the interim until the bike is again disassembled and repainted.

See the exemplary father and son project on this forum for ideas. Makes me think of the first day back at school: "What did you do in the holidays?" Hung out at the mall. What about you? ... Rebuilt and repainted a 750cc motorbike with Dad?
With an attention span like that, I'm wondering if the boy's on the spectrum.

Regards
Guy

Thank you for this! I'll look into it



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[kris]

MaraudeRS, my bike is 6 years older than yours.. 61,000 miles when I got it. Had been sitting for 9 years but corrosion free....just dusty. My brakes were fine. Replaced pads...EBC organic, if memory serves. Showed my brake lines to a bike mechanic. Original units with the little date bands on them. He said they were fine and have been for almost 2 years. You can polish and paint those engine casings if you so choose. I would do the frame myself. No need to pay a pro for that unless you want something funky. As was mentioned you will likely find that the various components improve with use. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder. It stopped leaking. The engine tended to get smoother and happier the more I rode it.
One more thing, in my humble o. Don't worry so much about cost (within reason). You are resurrecting not just any old motorbike rather a piece of motorcycle history....and a fine German marque at that. I'm no BMW snob but do a little research on the history of this thing and your appreciation for what you have will increase. It's not an investment. It's a labour of love. At the end of it you will have a unique, slightly odd-looking, fun and reliable companion that will take you way over 100,000 miles. I've got a Kawasaki Concours (same format as my RT) that is a fine machine. But I just had to get a Brick for that whacky engine and all the other weird features that BMWs have.
You've heard it before but I'll say it again. Don't take two wheels for granted. Things can get out of hand in a hurry on a bike and that's just on your own. Throw cars into the equation and the risk level spikes considerably. Take the training. Start small (you can always sell off a small bike), really feel what the machine is doing and take things slow!! Speed and poor road surfaces (oil, gravel, sand, black ice) will take you down. Having said that there is nothing quite like motorcycling. Once you love it you love it for life. Make sure you live to ride another day!
One more little hint...if you go to replace the rear brake rotor the manufacturer apparently used permanent (red ?) Loctite on those bolts. They need to be heated up to remove them without stripping out the head....this according to the foul-mouthed but beloved Beemer mechanic, Chris Harris (Affordable Beemer Services). You've gotta view his stuff!
Good luck!

[MaraudeRS]

MaraudeRS, my bike is 6 years older than yours.. 61,000 miles when I got it. Had been sitting for 9 years but corrosion free....just dusty. My brakes were fine. Replaced pads...EBC organic, if memory serves. Showed my brake lines to a bike mechanic. Original units with the little date bands on them. He said they were fine and have been for almost 2 years. You can polish and paint those engine casings if you so choose. I would do the frame myself. No need to pay a pro for that unless you want something funky. As was mentioned you will likely find that the various components improve with use. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder. It stopped leaking. The engine tended to get smoother and happier the more I rode it.
One more thing, in my humble o. Don't worry so much about cost (within reason). You are resurrecting not just any old motorbike rather a piece of motorcycle history....and a fine German marque at that. I'm no BMW snob but do a little research on the history of this thing and your appreciation for what you have will increase. It's not an investment. It's a labour of love. At the end of it you will have a unique, slightly odd-looking, fun and reliable companion that will take you way over 100,000 miles. I've got a Kawasaki Concours (same format as my RT) that is a fine machine. But I just had to get a Brick for that whacky engine and all the other weird features that BMWs have.
You've heard it before but I'll say it again. Don't take two wheels for granted. Things can get out of hand in a hurry on a bike and that's just on your own. Throw cars into the equation and the risk level spikes considerably. Take the training. Start small (you can always sell off a small bike), really feel what the machine is doing and take things slow!! Speed and poor road surfaces (oil, gravel, sand, black ice) will take you down. Having said that there is nothing quite like motorcycling. Once you love it you love it for life. Make sure you live to ride another day!
One more little hint...if you go to replace the rear brake rotor the manufacturer apparently used permanent (red ?) Loctite on those bolts. They need to be heated up to remove them without stripping out the head....this according to the foul-mouthed but beloved Beemer mechanic, Chris Harris (Affordable Beemer Services). You've gotta view his stuff!
Good luck!

Kris, thank you very much much for your fantastic post! I'm hoping you're right about the brake lines and they don't need to be replaced but I'll find out as soon as I get them full of fluid. I just ordered some EBC semi-sintered pads, hopefully that was a good choice.

As far as the budget goes, I'm willing to spend far more than the bike is "worth" because it's worth it to me. I constantly see visions in my head of what I want it to look like when I'm done.

I ordered and received my EBC MD661 rear brake but it doesn't look like the one I removed so I have to figure out why they're different. Maybe someone can enlighten me? The rotor itself is fine but it's the piece that's attached that's different. 


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[Martin]

Post pictures of both. One could be for ABS.
Regards Martin.

[MaraudeRS]

My old one:
And the one I purchased:

Did I screw up/get screwed?


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[Filmcamera]

The new one isn't for an ABS bike, your one is.

[Martin]

There are at least 5 manufacturers for BMW discs and carriers EBC, Grimeca, Brembo, Goodridge and Metal Gear, and they all look different. Did you get instructions with the disc, it should tell you to remove the toothed ABS wheel and refit on your new carrier. On the front discs the toothed ABS wheel comes off and is transferred to the new disc. Have a look to see if this is the case, also compare measurements between the two.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Your new rotor is for a different model.  I don't know which, but the giveaway is the bobbons that allow the disc to float, as well as the holes in disc itself.   Could be for a K1100.

[MaraudeRS]

The new one isn't for an ABS bike, your one is.

Dang it! I'm gonna have to see if the seller falsely advertised it or if I messed up. If it's my fault then it's showing up in the classifieds shortly.


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[Martin]

I have bought front EBC ones that look the same. Instructions say to remove the toothed wheel by undoing the three screws. Looking at your new one they have the 3 screws for mounting the toothed ABS wheel. I am going from a solid disc to a fully floating, I don't have ABS and it states that they will fit. I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.

[MaraudeRS]

I have bought front EBC ones that look the same. Instructions say to remove the toothed wheel by undoing the three screws. Looking at your new one they have the 3 screws for mounting the toothed ABS wheel. I am going from a solid disc to a fully floating, I don't have ABS and it states that they will fit. I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.

Thank you, Martin. I'll see if this is the correct unit before I jump the gun and sell it. Unfortunately it didn't come with instructions so I'll have to see if some are available online.


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[Laitch]

I measured them up and they will, I just need to leave out the part about fitting the toothed wheel.
Regards Martin.

Unfortunately it didn't come with instructions so I'll have to see if some are available online.

One task that can be done in the meantime, Maurader, is to measure the width—not diameter—of the toothed wheel, measure the width of the old assembly including the toothed wheel, measure the width of the new assembly, measure the width of the place where the old tooth wheel would fit on it to ascertain that the toothed wheel would not interfere with bike wheel/rotor assembly, compare the width of the new assembly to the old assembly's width. You could also heat the toothed wheel screw areas on the old wheel with a propane torch, mapp torch or heat gun and give a try at loosening those toothed wheel screws without damaging them.

This task will serve as practice in calculation, comparison and seized-screw loosening technique—if nothing else.

[Martin]

 :2thumbup: I've gone back and forth over the pictures and I think the new one will fit, but as Laitch and I have said measure it. I think what has thrown you off is the bobbins. With both discs on a flat surface measure down from the surface with the countersunk screw holes to the surface measure the inner hole diameter, measure the thickness of the part with the inner hole. Then compare diameters. I got mine really cheap and when they arrived I thought I had the wrong ones. :yow But once I measured them the key measurements were identical.
Regards Martin.

[MaraudeRS]

:2thumbup: I've gone back and forth over the pictures and I think the new one will fit, but as Laitch and I have said measure it. I think what has thrown you off is the bobbins. With both discs on a flat surface measure down from the surface with the countersunk screw holes to the surface measure the inner hole diameter, measure the thickness of the part with the inner hole. Then compare diameters. I got mine really cheap and when they arrived I thought I had the wrong ones. :yow But once I measured them the key measurements were identical.
Regards Martin.

Thank you very much!

One task that can be done in the meantime, Maurader, is to measure the width—not diameter—of the toothed wheel, measure the width of the old assembly including the toothed wheel, measure the width of the new assembly, measure the width of the place where the old tooth wheel would fit on it to ascertain that the toothed wheel would not interfere with bike wheel/rotor assembly, compare the width of the new assembly to the old assembly's width. You could also heat the toothed wheel screw areas on the old wheel with a propane torch, mapp torch or heat gun and give a try at loosening those toothed wheel screws without damaging them.

This task will serve as practice in calculation, comparison and seized-screw loosening technique—if nothing else.

And thank you very much!

It worked. The screws came off without even needing to heat them up and that's what was throwing me off. I had to practically melt the ring and pry it with a crowbar in order to get it off of the old brake. I was able to clean it up pretty nicely and it slid right onto the new brake.



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[Filmcamera]

That is great - I am so glad I was wrong... (now if you can find a way to make my wife say something similar you are destined for greatness!)

[Martin]

What planet are you on, my wife thought she was wrong once but she was mistaken. A long pain free and happy marriage is based on your ability to always admit it is your fault.  :hehehe
Regards a very wise Martin.

[Martin]

Marauder when I got my discs I emailed EBC to see what pads to get as I was sick of chopping out discs. The new EBC discs are now made of a harder material than was previously used. They recommended EBC organic if I wanted maximum disc life.
Regards Martin.

[The Dude]

The brick motor at 11:1 compression and fuel shut off provides ample engine braking.Ive been eking my brakes out for judicial use only... :clap:

[Martin]

Dude EBC stated that previous discs had not been hardened, and one would assume that they would not have switched material if there wasn't a problem. Last 2 sets were Metal Gear, I have since been told low quality made in China. I wasn't chewing through pads just discs, a set of discs to a set of pads.
Regards Martin.

[MaraudeRS]

Thank you Martin & Laitch! I couldn't have done it without your guidance. I measured with & without the ring and they match up. It's little victories like this that'll keep me lovin this project.

I'm still waiting for my gas cap rebuild kit and gasket to arrive so my next task is to empty the vinegar out of the fuel tank, pull the fuel pump, and check the sump. I'll clean the pump while it's out and hopefully everything won't need replacing.

I'm also going to be replacing the spark plugs very soon. I'm thinking I should replace the wires also. Is there an aftermarket brand that i should look into? I like to try to upgrade things as I replace them.


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[Martin]

Marauder you need to put where you live and what bikes you own on your title page. I live in OZ so leads here might be too expensive. I do know one thing OEM are super dear here, close to $300.00 Au. You do need resistor leads 5 Ohm, NGK do a 5 Ohm cap either at 45 deg or 90 deg you can get them to fit spark plugs with or without spark plug nuts. Failure to fit resistor leads will blow the ignition module. I have always wondered whether you can fit standard leads and just fit resistor spark plugs maybe RBM, Inge or Kenny Bobby may have an answer to this question.
Regards Martin.

[MaraudeRS]

Marauder you need to put where you live and what bikes you own on your title page. I live in OZ so leads here might be too expensive. I do know one thing OEM are super dear here, close to $300.00 Au. You do need resistor leads 5 Ohm, NGK do a 5 Ohm cap either at 45 deg or 90 deg you can get them to fit spark plugs with or without spark plug nuts. Failure to fit resistor leads will blow the ignition module. I have always wondered whether you can fit standard leads and just fit resistor spark plugs maybe RBM, Inge or Kenny Bobby may have an answer to this question.
Regards Martin.

Done.
$300 is nuts! I was looking at these http://www.bskspeedworks.co.uk/ram-power-leads.html for $74 US. Obviously I'll have to pay shipping from the UK but that'll still be less than $300. I'll look into the NGK wires. Thanks


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

Do you know your plug wires are bad?  Why not wait to see how the bike runs after you have taken care of the obvious issues?  There are an awful lot of these bikes out there running the original wires.   Right now, I would put my money where I can get the best bang for it.

Speaking of bang for the buck, seriously consider these pads.  I have over 20,000 miles on one set and around 5-7,000 miles each on two more sets.  They squeak occasionally, but otherwise have worked extremely well.  Also, being carbon/kevlar organic pads they are about as gentle on our expensive discs as you can get.  And yes, that price is for all three calipers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-BMW-K100RS-16-valve-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-/161709597631?hash=item25a6a4a3bf:g:~fAAAOSwhcJWHvb6&vxp=mtr

[MaraudeRS]

Do you know your plug wires are bad?  Why not wait to see how the bike runs after you have taken care of the obvious issues?  There are an awful lot of these bikes out there running the original wires.   Right now, I would put my money where I can get the best bang for it.

Speaking of bang for the buck, seriously consider these pads.  I have over 20,000 miles on one set and around 5-7,000 miles each on two more sets.  They squeak occasionally, but otherwise have worked extremely well.  Also, being carbon/kevlar organic pads they are about as gentle on our expensive discs as you can get.  And yes, that price is for all three calipers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-1992-BMW-K100RS-16-valve-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-/161709597631?hash=item25a6a4a3bf:g:~fAAAOSwhcJWHvb6&vxp=mtr

That's an excellent point. I don't know that the wires are bad so I'll spend the money elsewhere until I know they are. I got one of the spark plugs pulled just now and this is what I see.
Glad I'm replacing them! Lol

As far as brake pads goes, I've already ordered the EBC semi-sintered pads for the rear. I haven't done anything with the front yet so I'll look into those for the fronts. Thanks!

In other news, I pumped out the vinegar from the fuel tank and it looks fantastic. Thanks for the recommendation Filmcamera and Gryphon!


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