87 K75C, Bone Stock and DONE.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

OK done a bunch more reading about timing the thing.  Im not messing w it.   :riding:

If it aint broke...RIDE IT

Wise choice.  The Hall Sensors are not subject to the issues of wear and high rpm float like the points of the good old days.  Once set, they can hold that setting for hundreds of thousands of miles.  Tight manufacturing tolerances make it possible to physically set the timing without the need for timing devices. 

There is a cutout in the plate the Hall Sensors are mounted on that allows one to see the timing mark.  I have had excellent results from just physically aligning the cutout with a matching cutout on the cover around it.  I would guess that by simply setting the timing this way you will be within a degree or two of the optimum point.  With all the articles around about advancing the timing it's pretty obvious that the engine works well over a fairly wide range of timing setpoints.  My experience with my three bikes confirms that it's difficult to set the timing wrong.   I have yet to use a timing light or anything else and all my bikes run great and get fuel mileage in the mid to upper 40's. 

[trek97]

Thanks guys!

[trek97]

Messing around, checked start sw contacts.  Found, depending on how I pushed and wiggled it.  I have less than desirable 1.8 ohms at best and up to around 12 ohms.

Opened it up and surprised to find its nothing more than a cheesy, sorta exposed pair of leaf (oxidized green) contacts.

Cleaned em up and now a much better solid 0.4 ohms, EVERYTIME.











Mechanic in a can to the rescue!   :2thumbup:





Also, as RBM suggested I double checked TPS to ensure the health and functionality of both switches in TPS, working at WOT and throttle opening.  Both switches reading .5 ohms.


Center lug is the common connection.

[trek97]

Some other little odds and ends, buttoned up.


Replaced broken reflectors.





Replaced, the repaired shifter lever





Replaced all four signals w nicer set.





Sand blasted and fresh gloss black epoxy on screens.





NOS clutch lever going in.





Fresh lug bolts.  (a couple of the originals felt a little funky last time I torqued em)

[trek97]

My buddy Davey's wife is back to 100% after having emergency surgery for internal bleeding. 
He sent this...getting ready to spray this week.

[trek97]

I made it clear to Davey, Im not looking to win the cover of a magazine.
Davey is not a pro painter.  (An elevator mechanic like me, we've been friends for 30 years.)   
But he makes up for his lack of formal training/experience, simply due to the fact that he cares.
I have a ton of respect for the guy.

[Laitch]

I have a ton of respect for the guy.

He's definitely been studying Alexander Calder.

[trek97]

He's definitely been studying Alexander Calder.

Not everyone will get that one. 

[Martin]

Nah even I got it and I'm an Ozian ( New word describing a person living in the Antipodes as per Laitch )
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

. . . I'm an Ozian ( New word describing a person living in the Antipodes as per Laitch )

I'm leaning toward Antipodiatrist for variety.

[Martin]

Can I call you a Verminian or an ex Flouridian not sure which to use?  :hehehe :dunno


Regards a Ozian Antipodiatrist Martin.

[Laitch]

Can I call you a Verminian or an ex Flouridian not sure which to use?  :hehehe :dunno

You've concocted some breathtaking evolution of language there, Martin.  Let your heart dictate its usage. :2thumbup:

[Martin]

 :2thumbup:

[trek97]

Ok guys she fired right up.  Checked sync is good.



Set up Gastester and shes at 2.3

However, I slowly increase rpm to 2500 and she drops to 0.8.

Is that right?  Seems she should remain closer to 2.3 at ALL rpms.

Also, it melts the hose off pretty quickly at 2500rpm.  Ha!

I have a small exhaust leak at muffler.  Which could be affecting numbers.

Also, the idle adjuster screw is not hitting its stop.  So, I cant get idle under 1300rpm.  I can push the adjuster down to the stop w my finger and the rpm drops.  But as soon as I release pressure it pops back up and revs to 1300.  I slackened off throttle cable and choke cables.  Thinking one may be too tight.  But to no avail.  Any ideas???
 
The upside...The cooling fan kicks on and off wonderfully.

[Elipten]

I have seen clamps on the throttle body manifolds restricting movement of the linkage.


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[trek97]

I have seen clamps on the throttle body manifolds restricting movement of the linkage.

Thanks bud just found the issue.  Loosened off TPS.  It had it in some sort of bind.  Now just need to get it adjusted correctly. 


Any idea about the gastester numbers?

[Elipten]

I have no experience with gastester.


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[trek97]

Got the switch working well and lubed up the throttle control linkage.  No more binding and idle at 1000.

[trek97]

OK guys, just re-read the BMW manual and as long as Im 2 at idle of 1000k give or take shes good.


Says nothing about testing at increased rpm.

[Martin]

The test is at idle. Revving the bike with the tester hooked up can possibly damage the tester. The readings at idle as per Haynes is 2% to 2.5 %.
Follow the instructions very carefully allow time for the initial setting up reading. Allow time between small adjustments and allow plenty of time for the machine to purge. I run mine at 2% TMG has run his a little bit leaner I can't remember what. The key to good results with the Gunson is to follow the instructions and patience. I've had mine for at least 18 years it is a delicate instrument, treat it with care, don't drop it or lend it and it will serve you for years
Regards Martin.

[trek97]

The test is at idle. Revving the bike with the tester hooked up can possibly damage the tester. The readings at idle as per Haynes is 2% to 2.5 %.
Follow the instructions very carefully allow time for the initial setting up reading. Allow time between small adjustments and allow plenty of time for the machine to purge. I run mine at 2% TMG has run his a little bit leaner I can't remember what. The key to good results with the Gunson is to follow the instructions and patience. I've had mine for at least 18 years it is a delicate instrument, treat it with care, don't drop it or lend it and it will serve you for years
Regards Martin.

 :2thumbup:



Thanks bud, I just dont know how I got it in my head to check it at idle AND again at 2500.  Just dreamed it up I suppose. 
And yes revving as sloooowly as my patience would allow, anyways.


I will dial her in proper later this morning.  Now that I got her idling at 1000rpm.


 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Set the % at idle.  As the throttle is opened, the Jetronic/Motronic will inject a leaner mixture to control emissions.  The slightly richer than perfect mixture at idle is necessary to get the engine to rev smoothly from idle. 

I set mine for the lower end of the specification, but once the weather warms up a bit(the tester doesn't really want to calibrate at ambient temps of 35F)  I'm going back to redo it slightly richer.  This is because the bike has gotten a bit of hesitation/stumble coming off of idle.  It's not really bad, but I might as well get it as close as I can. 

[trek97]

Thanks TMG.


I revisited it this morning and heres where I am...


Up to temp w cooling fan kicking on and off.  Idle set at a rock steady 1krpm





Slowly fluctuates twixed 1.9-2.0.


BONUS...the Worlds least suspenseful 30 sec vid ever.  LOL

[Martin]

 :2thumbup: Patience has it's own rewards Grasshopper. Softly softly catchee monkey.

[trek97]

done