MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: trek97 on October 04, 2016, 07:12:55 AM
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Good morning guys,
Name is Eric, 49yo Elevator repair Mechanic at the University of Illinois, and I was not looking for another bike. Currently have 3 old Hondas sitting in my garage. My brother got me into riding and wrenching on bikes abut 6 years ago. So, definitely not alot of motorcycle experience.
As stated, "I was not actually looking to get another machine". But, up early 2 Saturdays ago, sitting here in my garage perusing Craigslist, simply to pass the time while waking up. I ran across this ad...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/CL%20k75c%20600_zpsmvftpkb9.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/CL%20k75c%20600_zpsmvftpkb9.jpg.html)
Ride it home...Huh?
Assuming it was already gone. I shot the guy a quick email. Turns out he just posted the thing and I was the first to reply. So, the wife and I hopped in the car and ran into check it out.
Next thing I knew this happened.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P-2ys3Qcx4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P-2ys3Qcx4)
so now Im a BMW owner.
28k miles on the clock. Bikes been parked for the past 2 years. Garage kept but years of long days spent sitting on a hot asphalt parking lot during working hours. The sun has taken its toll. Overall seems to be a solid machine so far. Everything on the dash works.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0792%20600_zpsmghrhvtn.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0792%20600_zpsmghrhvtn.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0790%20600_zpsekn0o5vf.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0790%20600_zpsekn0o5vf.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0787%20600_zpsbrpse8m9.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0787%20600_zpsbrpse8m9.jpg.html)
Shes been tipped once or twice over the years...assuming the guy parked it on the center stand. I suspect in an attempt to alleviate the "smoking on startup thing."
broken signal and tweeked handlebars.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0788%20600_zpsmgikwxii.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0788%20600_zpsmgikwxii.jpg.html)
So, I downloaded the BMW workshop manual from carlsalter.com, got busy reading and ordering some safety and maintenance items.
Full maintenance kit + supplement kit from bobsbmw.com
brake pads
Shinko 712s
ebay bars, signals and tragkorbs
cheapy gaitors from amazon
By Tuesday it started raining boxes of parts.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0816_zpscljt8fv3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0816_zpscljt8fv3.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0811%20600_zpsh0tlxjuc.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0811%20600_zpsh0tlxjuc.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0814%20600_zpsh5kvivh3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0814%20600_zpsh5kvivh3.jpg.html)
Tires showed up on Tuesday. So I got em pulled off Wednesday and got em mounted at my buddy Tims place. Hes got a machine setup in his garage. nice.
thats Tim and YES he does have shag carpet on his garage floor!!!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1257_zpsnar1wgob.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_1257_zpsnar1wgob.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1259_zpsff7b2h3u.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_1259_zpsff7b2h3u.jpg.html)
Friday evening I pulled the final drive and driveshaft out. Cleaned and greased w Moly 77 I picked up at Subaru dealership.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0817_zpsnun5gqsh.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0817_zpsnun5gqsh.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0819_zpsj2nap8hd.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0819_zpsj2nap8hd.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0826_zpscr3z9w7l.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0826_zpscr3z9w7l.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0829_zpssz9z1boz.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0829_zpssz9z1boz.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0831_zpsmjf1gc2q.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0831_zpsmjf1gc2q.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0833_zpstfuwafuu.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0833_zpstfuwafuu.jpg.html)
This past Saturday and Sunday, I worked on the front end. Stripping nasty black off the forks, replacing fork oil, cleaning and replacing brake pads...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1261_zpsfoama4wq.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_1261_zpsfoama4wq.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0838_zps3olcmppb.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0838_zps3olcmppb.jpg.html)
The kit from bobsbmw included oil and new crush washers.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0845_zpsnlaiesla.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0845_zpsnlaiesla.jpg.html)
The old pads were separating.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0847_zpsynzfgwnm.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0847_zpsynzfgwnm.jpg.html)
Cleaned up as best I could. New pads installed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0850_zpsdfmey2mu.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0850_zpsdfmey2mu.jpg.html)
Torqued to spec.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0851_zpsrxpsytkj.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0851_zpsrxpsytkj.jpg.html)
Gonna get ready to change brake fluid and do some more cleaning.
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Also, I have ZERO BMW experience. Im just going by what Im reading from the manual, buddies and, for what its worth "ONLINE".
So, if anyone sees I have missed something or has any tips or tech advise.
Please let me know.
Thanks
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WelKome!
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That's a great first post, trek97. Welcome. You should start a thread in the Projects section with photos of your continuing work.
Clean up the hollow end of your driveshaft and your rear drive shaft splines and post straight-on photos of them. We're always interested in those.
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Welcome trek97.nice find,meant to be your's!
28kmiles(genuine)is special.All the best.
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Welcome to the asylum from OZ. Check the hoses and fuel pump damper in the tank they can turn to goo. If the damper is OK replace the filter and hoses with fully submersible SAE 30R10 5/16 hose. Replace all the external fuel hoses with fuel injection rated hose. Check and replace the breather hose (Z hose). Clean the electrical connectors with Deoxit and apply dielectric grease, copper grease or silicon grease. Some riders don't like using grease on the connectors, I believe it stops moisture getting in and causing corrosion. I can see by your parts that you are going to flush the cooling system use only distilled water with your coolant. Change the engine oil and filter clean the air cleaner element and check for critters.Also check your valve clearances.
Regards Martin.
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Glad to see a project that is not a cafe conversion.
Check all the fuel lines and dampener in the gas tank.
Welcome to a great motorcycle.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Looks like you're well on your way.
I'm jealous of that windscreen - I have an aftermarket one for my k75 standard that I suspect doesn't work nearly as well.
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WelKome!
Thanks Brad-Man! Or google translate...Vielen Dank Brad-Man
That's a great first post, trek97. Welcome. You should start a thread in the Projects section with photos of your continuing work.
Clean up the hollow end of your driveshaft and your rear drive shaft splines and post straight-on photos of them. We're always interested in those.
Thanks. and Dang it, sorry! The only thing I didnt get a decent pic of. The splines actually looked real good and straight. They were due for Grease. They were just going shiny on the very corners of the flat tops. But, still sharp edges and flat tops, not worn to points or anything remotely close to that. I ran a sharp screwdriver and dug all the hard grease out of the bottoms of each spline, and there are a lot of bottoms. lol. Nothing at all even questionable about them.
The U-joint felt good too.
But I will post a question about them at the bottom of this post, so I may get to post a pic yet. HA!
Welcome trek97.nice find,meant to be your's!
28kmiles(genuine)is special.All the best.
Thanks! I was shocked when it popped up on CL. Im like "too good to be true" but everything so far has been good on it.
And yes, as far as I know they are genuine miles. The odo/speedo works fine. and even though I have never met him before, the PO works at the University too. He only had it a week. I think his wife may have blown a gasket when he brought it home.
He bought it from his aging buddy, he had last parked it in 2014. Who, apparently rode it a handful of miles daily to and from work, for the most part. Never had tragkorbs on it. So maybe no Loong trips.
I have no reason not to believe the guy.
Welcome to the asylum from OZ. Check the hoses and fuel pump damper in the tank they can turn to goo. If the damper is OK replace the filter and hoses with fully submersible SAE 30R10 5/16 hose. Replace all the external fuel hoses with fuel injection rated hose. Check and replace the breather hose (Z hose). Clean the electrical connectors with Deoxit and apply dielectric grease, copper grease or silicon grease. Some riders don't like using grease on the connectors, I believe it stops moisture getting in and causing corrosion. I can see by your parts that you are going to flush the cooling system use only distilled water with your coolant. Change the engine oil and filter clean the air cleaner element and check for critters.Also check your valve clearances.
Regards Martin.
The kit came w a fuel filter and the breather (Z hose), air filter and oil filter and gaskets. Funny though the kit came w BMW 10w40. Manual says 10w40 is for pretty cold weather. So, I picked up Valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil. (The garden tractor will get the BMW 10w40 when I pull the deck and install the snow plow this fall)
Hres a list of the 2 kits I got...They were pricey but sure made it quick and easy for a first timer. I want to ride a bit before the snow flies.
THIS Kit contains:
• 4 Quarts 10W40 Engine Oil (NOTE: currently shipping Belray brand oil as BMW 10W40 is NLA)
• 2 Quarts 80W90 Hypoid Gear Oil
• 1 Quart 11.5 Wt Fork Oil*
• 1 DOT4 Brake Fluid, 12 oz.
• 1 Gallon Coolant
• 1 Oil Filter Change Kit
• 1 Air Filter
• 1 Fuel Filter
• 2 Hose Clamps for Fuel Filter
• 1 Fuel Cap Gasket
• 1 Radiator Cap Gasket - Outer
• 1 Radiator Cap Gasket - Inner
• 5 Various Crush Washers required for fill & drain plugs on engine/drive train
THIS Kit contains:
• 3 X5DC BOSCH Spark Plugs
• 1 Valve Cover Gasket, Outer
• 1 Valve Cover Gasket, Inner
• 2 Camshaft End Plugs
• 1 Breather Hose
• 2 Vacuum Nipple Caps
• 2 Crush Washers for Fork Oil Fill Plugs
• 2 Crush Washers for Fork Oil Drain Plugs
All parts are Genuine BMW Parts.
I will certainly check on the other hoses you refer to. Do that work this winter.
Gotcha covered on the Deoxit and grease.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0854_zpslehwy69g.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0854_zpslehwy69g.jpg.html)
Looks like you're well on your way.
I'm jealous of that windscreen - I have an aftermarket one for my k75 standard that I suspect doesn't work nearly as well.
Thanks bud the windscreen is pretty decent. Its got a few rock chips but certainly in usable condition.
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Can I ask where you got the kits?
Might be a useful resource
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Welcome and congrats on the ride it home K75C. :2thumbup:
An 87 is a fine choice. Got one myself just about a year ago.
It was all apart and not ridehomeable. Not down to the crank but all the plastics and electrics were in boxes. Partially stripped down.
The previous owner got confused and then got cancer...
All I had to do was sort it out and purchase $400 worth of new and used parts.
I'm envious of your low miles, mine just rolled over to 70k.
Don in Nipomo
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Glad to see a project that is not a cafe conversion.
Check all the fuel lines and dampener in the gas tank.
Welcome to a great motorcycle.
thaks dude! and yes absolutely no "Cafe" on this one...been there done that. Time for a grown up bike.
Cant say the old Honda 360 isnt a barrel of monkeys though.
First motorcycle I ever owned and rode...6 years ago.
76 CB360
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/original2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/original2.jpg.html)
Heres the bike now. Did 99% of the work myself. All but any welding, my buddy Greg is a trustworthy welder and works for steak and beer.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-181215062659_zps6w3vp5z0.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-181215062659_zps6w3vp5z0.jpg.html)
A little ride vid of me on 360 following my Buddy Jared on his CB550? riding mountain roads in down in Kentucky.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Er-9wJ-yapk
Also, I restored a CL100 I inherited from my uncle John. He bought the bike new in 1972. Last plated and running 78.
Earlier this past spring, 8 week project...Working overtime on it. My Uncle wasnt doing so good at the time. Better now though.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-090515204513-9781110_zpswwpflcme.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-090515204513-9781110_zpswwpflcme.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-090515204513-9791316_zpssw9xyt4s.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-090515204513-9791316_zpssw9xyt4s.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-180715201538-14181928_zps6knbcb1p.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-180715201538-14181928_zps6knbcb1p.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-180715201634_zps0g8ogel3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-180715201634_zps0g8ogel3.jpg.html)
the ultimate award. My Uncle John giving me the THUMBS UP! Ol'boy really enjoyed watching me tear around the parking lot on that little beast.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/11494-050915132930_zpsv0e7j0iw.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/11494-050915132930_zpsv0e7j0iw.jpg.html)
My nephew and wife both learned and took their very first motorcycle rides on it!!! Fun times
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANV6vzMg20A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-KOLQyMnnQ&spfreload=10
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Welcome and congrats on the ride it home K75C. :2thumbup:
An 87 is a fine choice. Got one myself just about a year ago.
It was all apart and not ridehomeable. Not down to the crank but all the plastics and electrics were in boxes. Partially stripped down.
The previous owner got confused and then got cancer...
All I had to do was sort it out and purchase $400 worth of new and used parts.
I'm envious of your low miles, mine just rolled over to 70k.
Don in Nipomo
NICE bro! Your bike came out super clean! So far I spent more more than $400!!! Youre doing pretty dang good there.
Loving the RED! Im not the biggest fan of Black. However its gonna stay Black for a while. I was thinking a nice subtle blue for mine, one day.
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Thanks for the great photos and info on your "new" brick.
Looks like you are well on your way for it to be roadworthy. This site as well as Snowbums http://bmwmotorcycletech.info (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info) (it does take a bit to find the great tech info), Anton's http://www.largiader.com (http://www.largiader.com) and others have helped me along the way.
I always carry an extra clutch cable which saved me not but 10 miles from home after a two-week trip. You may want to check yours and clean and lube it if it's OK and keep an extra on hand.
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OK guys I got a question.
Reffiting the drive shaft. I worked it around and got splines lined up...and pushed it in by hand until it sorta popped into place. It slide in nice and smooth and i gave it a couple more pushes just to be sure it was home.
I pulled it pretty hard w greasy fingers and it wouldnt come out easily.
Is this as far in as it should go? Please see pic. this is how I left it when reassembled.
ALSO, I cleaned and dried the machined surfaces w acetone. Should I have put a little "something" on them? When I pulled them apart they were clean. Just old melted and hard grease laying in the bottom. I cleaned it out.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the great photos and info on your "new" brick.
Looks like you are well on your way for it to be roadworthy. This site as well as Snowbums http://bmwmotorcycletech.info (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info) (it does take a bit to find the great tech info), Anton's http://www.largiader.com (http://www.largiader.com) and others have helped me along the way.
I always carry an extra clutch cable which saved me not but 10 miles from home after a two-week trip. You may want to check yours and clean and lube it if it's OK and keep an extra on hand.
Thanks dude. and Thanks for the info!!! Knowledge is power! I fleeting thought about lubing cables along the way. But w everything else Ive been doing. Honestly did slip my mind. I will write it on the list now. Thanks again!!!
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Thanks dude. and Thanks for the info!!! Knowledge is power! I fleeting thought about lubing cables along the way. But w everything else Ive been doing. Honestly did slip my mind. I will write it on the list now. Thanks again!!!
They break at the barrel in the clutch lever so clean and lube there to allow a smooth rotation. To my knowledge BMW cables themselves are those that should not be lubed because they have a teflon coated shield.
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They break at the barrel in the clutch lever so clean and lube there to allow a smooth rotation. To my knowledge BMW cables themselves are those that should not be lubed because they have a teflon coated shield.
I recall reading in the BMW workshop manual to Lube the cable ends. I will try to find it again to double check. Also I will look for teflon coated sheilds.
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BTW did you see my drive shaft question a couple posts above?
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From the BMW workshop manual.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202016-10-04%20at%207.56.18%20PM_zpsamep2ilj.png) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202016-10-04%20at%207.56.18%20PM_zpsamep2ilj.png.html)
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Sorry guys,
would a Forum Admin, Moderator or Facilitator please move this thread to "Projects"
Thanks
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Great find. Looks to be a K75T, a package BMWNA added to the C. Higher bars, windshield, seat, luggage and many had fork mounted driving lights.
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Great find. Looks to be a K75T, a package BMWNA added to the C. Higher bars, windshield, seat, luggage and many had fork mounted driving lights.
Thanks and thanks for info. I had no idea. thought it was a plain ole C. No fork driving lights. I picked up the tragkorbs on ebay. But everything else came as is.
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Can I ask where you got the kits?
Might be a useful resource
Sorry I missed ya Filmcamera.
Got the kits at bobsbmw.com
Big kit...
http://store.bobsbmw.com/product/full-service-base-kit-all-k75-k100-k1100-models
Supplement kit...
http://store.bobsbmw.com/product/full-service-supplement-kit-for-all-1986-91-k75-models
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Thanks!
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C and T
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OK guys I got a question.
Reffiting the drive shaft. I worked it around and got splines lined up...and pushed it in by hand until it sorta popped into place. It slide in nice and smooth and i gave it a couple more pushes just to be sure it was home.
Is this as far in as it should go? Please see pic. this is how I left it when reassembled.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg.html)
The rear drive mating surface lacks two locating dowels that are positioned diagonally from each other. These are designed to strengthen and secure alignment with the swing arm. They could be seen in one of the previous photos. Were they dropped during reassembly? There should also be two dowels performing a similar function mating the transmission to the clutch housing.
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Some lubricants will break down the plastic coating inside the cable. If you want to lubricate them, get a product called TriFlow Teflon based it is designed for bicycle cables and works well. Available at bicycle shop. I have been using it for about 30 years great stuff.
Regards Martin
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The rear drive mating surface lacks two locating dowels that are positioned diagonally from each other. These are designed to strengthen and secure alignment with the swing arm. They could be seen in one of the previous photos. Were they dropped during reassembly? There should also be two dowels performing a similar function mating the transmission to the clutch housing.
Got em in there bud, thanks. Just like the pic you posted above, they remained tight in the final drive, not in the swinger.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0829_zpssz9z1boz.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0829_zpssz9z1boz.jpg.html)
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C and T
thanks Chaos, yep Mine seems to have the headlight, windscreen, handlebars and seat of the "T". But lacking driving lamps and tragkorbs.
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OK guys I got a question.
Reffiting the drive shaft. I worked it around and got splines lined up...and pushed it in by hand until it sorta popped into place. It slide in nice and smooth and i gave it a couple more pushes just to be sure it was home.
I pulled it pretty hard w greasy fingers and it wouldnt come out easily.
Is this as far in as it should go? Please see pic. this is how I left it when reassembled.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0828_zps37kku56h.jpg.html)
It's kind of hard to tell from that pic, but my experience is that the swing arm needs to be supported at approximately operating angle when removing or installing the driveshaft. Looks like you're working with it bottomed out, with the rear end hanging down as far as it will go. First, there's a big rubber boot at the front end of the swingarm that you want to protect. Second, in my experience the driveshaft won't seat properly at that angle. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure didn't for me.
What I do is this: support the swingarm from the rear so it's at operating angle, then tap the driveshaft in with a wood block until you know it's seated. How do you know it's seated? There's about 5/8 inch play between the position where it first makes contact and the position where it's fully seated. You can push it in there and it will seem to catch but if you wiggle it around or put a crescent wrench on the exposed end of the DS and pry a little against the end of the swingarm (with rags places appropriately to protect the surfaces), it will drop right out. That means it's not seated. It should be seated such that you need to pry with considerable force to get it out again.
It I may say something about the spline greasing -- looks like slathered it on there. With good moly paste, it's not about the quantity but about the application. Most of the stuff on those splines is going to get slung off to interior walls of the final drive as soon as you take your first ride, which just means more work for you next time you do the spline lube because you're going to have to take the time to wipe and clean all that gunk out of there.
So with the final drive it's kind of just wasted material and time. Good moly paste kind of binds with the surface of the metal to provide a thin layer of protection -- that's what the moly powder in the paste is for. With the transmission splines you do not want to slather like that because when it slings off it will get on the clutch disk and grease the friction surface which will affect the operation of the clutch.
I think there are videos and articles on how to properly lube splines -- I use a toothbrush, mush a small quantity of paste on the mating surfaces of the splines only and wipe off the rest.
That's a great brick you have there -- I like the way you stripped all the paint off the forks...looks nice, never seen that done before, most people myself included just repaint them with some satin black rattle can stuff from Home Depot.
I'm sure if I said anything wrong about the driveshaft someone else will correct me...
Good luck!
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Thanks for the awesome write up bud.
it's hard to tell from the angle of that pic in particular. But you can kinda see the red jack stand under it supporting the swing level. The 5/8 inch you speak of is pretty much what I had. From first resistance then it popped on in the 5/8" to bottom. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
And hopefully no trouble w grease on the clutch.
Here's a better pic showing the jack stand I was using to support.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0826_zpscr3z9w7l.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0826_zpscr3z9w7l.jpg.html)
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But I may go ahead and pull it back off. Clean the excess grease out, just to be sure double check on fitment. I believe it's fully seated after looking at pics of others. Seeing how much DS is sticking out.
It's only the 4 bolts and shock so no big deal right now. It would stink if the tire was installed and had the thing off the jack.
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Ok guys, need some help here.
So far Ive PM'd both Timtyler and Scott_ to request this thread be moved to the appropriate "projects" section.
So far neither have responded or acted. I certainly understand guys got lives to live. But a response would be nice.
Can someone please give me the name of whos in charge of this site? Or who can get things done.
Thanks
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Tim Tyler went Suzuki last I heard . Johhny is out there somewhere. He was sort of in charge of Donkeys, Gerbils and odd vernaculars.
I don't think anyone is in charge...
Carry on with what you have, we will follow.
Don in Nipomo
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You can get things done, trek. Start a Projects thread. Transfer as many photos as you want into it. Better yet, just make a post here directing readers to the new thread and carry on over there. Simple.
Tim Tyler went Suzuki last I heard . Johhny is out there somewhere. He was sort of in charge of Donkeys, Gerbils and odd vernaculars.
I don't think anyone is in charge...
Carry on with what you have, we will follow.
Don in Nipomo
Thanks for being helpful guys, you all have been awesome! and that just sucks you got no one you can count on for "forum" help in here.
I guess I got spoiled over at Dotheton.com. Tim and the guys running that site are awesome.
Anyways guess I have learned my lesson.
I will start a new thread in projects as you have suggested.
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You is your best moderator... in my best Johnny speak.
We is all adultish here. It's a self policing affair.
Don in Nipomo
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.
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So, I will stop second guessing myself and clean up the grease overage.
Upon the re-opening I found I did have the driveshaft full seated. Approx 3/8" extending out from the swinger.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0856_zpslobagx3g.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0856_zpslobagx3g.jpg.html)
end of driveshaft.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0868_zps0v14plhm.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0868_zps0v14plhm.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0870_zpseysibib6.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0870_zpseysibib6.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0878_zps9f60g5gd.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0878_zps9f60g5gd.jpg.html)
U joint end of drive shaft...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0874_zpst4jyabhm.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0874_zpst4jyabhm.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0875_zpsxtdzu6gq.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0875_zpsxtdzu6gq.jpg.html)
Best pic I could get down inside the swinger. sucks I know. But I could see it was pretty clean down there.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0863_zpsazhb0xfn.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0863_zpsazhb0xfn.jpg.html)
final drive...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0885_zpskg4q4vmc.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0885_zpskg4q4vmc.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0887_zpsj7x5pw4t.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0887_zpsj7x5pw4t.jpg.html)
drive shaft just starting to mesh...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0888_zpsq0zbee2x.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0888_zpsq0zbee2x.jpg.html)
drive shaft hitting resistance...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0890_zps2y8oalay.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0890_zps2y8oalay.jpg.html)
shaft fully seated. aprrox 3/8 same as before. Thanks goodness.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0891_zps8lfnmovm.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0891_zps8lfnmovm.jpg.html)
Things lined up w mating dowels installed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0892_zps78y4piyw.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0892_zps78y4piyw.jpg.html)
anti-seize on bolts..
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0893_zpsokw3uwgz.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0893_zpsokw3uwgz.jpg.html)
torqued to spec 40nm. would be nice if he BMW workshop manual had included torque specs for both lubed and dry fit bolts. Not gonna mess w hunting the info on all the sizes for lubed torque. So 40 may be a bit tight for lubed bolts.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0894_zpsqj8w8pqr.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/final%20drive%20final/IMG_0894_zpsqj8w8pqr.jpg.html)
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Great documentation, guess that's what a 28k final drive should look like.
Don in Nipomo
Thanks bud, Even though Ive never seen the final drive in a bmw before. I thought it looked to be in pretty decent shape.
But, now knowing its properly seated. Does ease my mind.
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Most important thing here is to learn how to search/use the site :bmwsmile. When I say, "welcome to the asylum," it is not a jest. Funny thing--lots of us have lives. Primarily we come here to share the love of a K (sometimes a harsh mistress). At these times, we sometimes seek support. It is not always readily available OR dispensed with celerity. Some know much, while others only have lessons from the school of hard knocks. Our love of motorcycles makes us all wannabe mechanics. Since we operate 30 yr old bikes, we all have to work on them :bmwsmile. This time of year lots of people :riding:. On a lighter note...
Noted, and thanks for the reply. and the video!!! :clap:
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It's kind of hard to tell from that pic, but my experience is that the swing arm needs to be supported at approximately operating angle when removing or installing the driveshaft. Looks like you're working with it bottomed out, with the rear end hanging down as far as it will go. First, there's a big rubber boot at the front end of the swingarm that you want to protect. Second, in my experience the driveshaft won't seat properly at that angle. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure didn't for me.
What I do is this: support the swingarm from the rear so it's at operating angle, then tap the driveshaft in with a wood block until you know it's seated. How do you know it's seated? There's about 5/8 inch play between the position where it first makes contact and the position where it's fully seated. You can push it in there and it will seem to catch but if you wiggle it around or put a crescent wrench on the exposed end of the DS and pry a little against the end of the swingarm (with rags places appropriately to protect the surfaces), it will drop right out. That means it's not seated. It should be seated such that you need to pry with considerable force to get it out again.
It I may say something about the spline greasing -- looks like slathered it on there. With good moly paste, it's not about the quantity but about the application. Most of the stuff on those splines is going to get slung off to interior walls of the final drive as soon as you take your first ride, which just means more work for you next time you do the spline lube because you're going to have to take the time to wipe and clean all that gunk out of there.
So with the final drive it's kind of just wasted material and time. Good moly paste kind of binds with the surface of the metal to provide a thin layer of protection -- that's what the moly powder in the paste is for. With the transmission splines you do not want to slather like that because when it slings off it will get on the clutch disk and grease the friction surface which will affect the operation of the clutch.
I think there are videos and articles on how to properly lube splines -- I use a toothbrush, mush a small quantity of paste on the mating surfaces of the splines only and wipe off the rest.
That's a great brick you have there -- I like the way you stripped all the paint off the forks...looks nice, never seen that done before, most people myself included just repaint them with some satin black rattle can stuff from Home Depot.
I'm sure if I said anything wrong about the driveshaft someone else will correct me...
Good luck!
Thanks Motorhobo for helping me keep on the straight and narrow. and for the encouragement to get r done properly.
Its all about the details aint it? And yes, I used about 1/3 the grease I had before. :2thumbup:
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Got my original heat shield and ebay handlebars bead blasted and ready.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0805_zpspyoe8sw1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0805_zpspyoe8sw1.jpg.html)
I was hoping to have em powder coated by a buddy down in 'Bama. But he's busy w the Barber Festival in Birmingham. And wouldnt be able to get to them for another week or more. So plan "B" epoxy them myself on the patio.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0837_zpszkqij6ie.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0837_zpszkqij6ie.jpg.html)
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With everything apart it may be a good time to remove and clean the starter.
The load shed relay is grounded through it and it gets pretty dirty from brush dust over the years which can cause some starter issues. Check IBMWR K-bike tech articles for examples.
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With everything apart it may be a good time to remove and clean the starter.
The load shed relay is grounded through it and it gets pretty dirty from brush dust over the years which can cause some starter issues. Check IBMWR K-bike tech articles for examples.
Wow thanks, Looks like some pretty nice write up there. I got that page bookmarked.
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The bad news...cracked a tooth and had to go to dentist to get a temp crown. Half my face is still numb.
the good news...got home in time to epoxy bars and shield.
And now a nap.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0895_zpsxqiztssd.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0895_zpsxqiztssd.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0896_zpsqvy14zie.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/trek97/media/BMW/IMG_0896_zpsqvy14zie.jpg.html)
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Wow thanks, Looks like some pretty nice write up there. I got that page bookmarked.
One of the documents mentions Rick Jones. He runs Motorrad Elektrik http://motoelekt.com (http://motoelekt.com) a supplier of electrical components for BMW bikes, mostly airheads. He's a regular at the Gathering of the Clans airhead rally and a great guy that I've discussed BMW bike electrics. I've upgraded the ignition on my airheads, he's rebuilt my Bosch starter and although not all-inclusive he has some K-bike parts.
Between him and Beemer Boneyard , with some help from Bob's and Max BMW, I've managed to keep my Beemers fun and reliable transportation.
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One of the documents mentions Rick Jones. He runs Motorrad Elektrik http://motoelekt.com (http://motoelekt.com) a supplier of electrical components for BMW bikes, mostly airheads. He's a regular at the Gathering of the Clans airhead rally and a great guy that I've discussed BMW bike electrics. I've upgraded the ignition on my airheads, he's rebuilt my Bosch starter and although not all-inclusive he has some K-bike parts.
Between him and Beemer Boneyard , with some help from Bob's and Max BMW, I've managed to keep my Beemers fun and reliable transportation.
Thanks for the info. Adding those to my growing list of resources.
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Work getting done.
Bent bars replaced
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0929_zpsjdymkkem.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0930_zps9mt9spgh.jpg)
fresh brake fluid
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0897_zpsjcrrnnvi.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0898_zps2c2gtb9i.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0899_zps3aqtxakq.jpg)
front end cleaned and buttoned up
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0932_zpspr0estmq.jpg)
presently working towards fixing a leak here...so far adjusted clutch properly to apply even spring pressure to the boot.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9075.0.html
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/clutch%20leak/IMG_0903_zpsxqfyjfap.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/clutch%20leak/IMG_0928_zpsotafulao.jpg)
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Went for round 2 this afternoon.
A BUNCH of scrubbing, Filled the final drive w 90wt, hit the drum w 220 grit, un-wrapped the cellophane from the brakes...
Shes bolted up and back on the ground.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0933_zpsqegun7yk.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0935_zpsmofyzxbf.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0936_zps8la9z9zw.jpg)
Cant forget to toss the seat on her and adjust the handlebars.
Next should be more engine scrubbing UGH!, coolant, engine and gear box oil, fresh spark plugs, air filter and repair broke turn signal.
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The unfinished aluminum cleans up nicely doesn't it!
Your post on the clutch rod leakage had me looking while I repaired my rear brake switch.
I've got a little leak also...
Don in Nipomo
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The unfinished aluminum cleans up nicely doesn't it!
Your post on the clutch rod leakage had me looking while I repaired my rear brake switch.
I've got a little leak also...
Don in Nipomo
It takes a bunch of elbow grease, but, yes it sure does.
and Bummer bout the leak. Adjusting the clutch to spec helped a bunch. After sitting all day. the boot does has a dribble on it. But not a drop on the floor yet. Before adj clutch there was a puddle collecting under her over the past week.
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No puddle here just a single drop while I was scrubbing away at the peg/brake pedal assembly.
Took it all off to service the micro switch. I dunno, not much you can do there. Might get a different one...
I don't get a consistent triple 0 on the 2k setting with my meter. The connector ends jumps out just fine to initiate the rear brake light.
The aluminum castings brush up pretty good. Coat it with paste wax.
I scrubbed the hell out of my bike when I got it, I like a clean slate to start with.
Simple green, wire brush and a small focused power washer.
That drip out the end of the clutch rod on to the floor was the first. This unit is fairly tight.
Don in Nipomo
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Posted by Inge K in my other thread...
Is the oil level in the gearbox correct .....?....it should be much lower than the shafts.
Now that shes back on the ground. I was curious to see just how much oil was in the gear box. Set to MAX level.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/clutch%20leak/IMG_0939_zpsic3ikjlj.jpg)
Oh bout 30mm too much! Fingers crossed, the internal seals did their job and it didnt get into the clutch. Argh!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/clutch%20leak/IMG_0938_zpsvblaargl.jpg)
I'll get this draining now. And refill properly when I get home from work.
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Looking like draining and refilling gearbox to the proper level, did the trick.
Over the past week the leak slowed and now have none!
Cleaned tank out. yuck.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0942_zpsvpuzmmdv.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0943_zpsjyvxgqcy.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0944_zps1kbalu2m.jpg)
Pulled the pump out and the screen looks to be in decent shape.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0953_zpsmilyfwow.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0946_zpstlrdjpfg.jpg)
tank topped off w a new gasket.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0945_zpsun8qgd70.jpg)
anyone know what the two smaller crush washers w the oil kit are for?
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0951_zpsndmplkuc.jpg)
Found old breather tube cracked. I replaced it w new.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0952_zpslwl7i8bm.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0947_zps5skdqj4g.jpg)
found the radiator cap was missing the large gasket. Luckily the kit included both gaskets.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0940_zpssbpsi47n.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0950_zpsbog8hdba.jpg)
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Looking good!
How were things under the airbox?
Was there much goo on the backsides of those throttle bodies?
You know, if you keep this up (cleaning and/or replacing everything) sooner or later you'll have to start it up and ride.
Don in Nipomo
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Looking good!
How were things under the airbox?
Was there much goo on the backsides of those throttle bodies?
You know, if you keep this up (cleaning and/or replacing everything) sooner or later you'll have to start it up and ride.
Don in Nipomo
Thanks bud,
Got the title, plates and insurance yesterday so I am officially ready to roll.
However, found my front tire is slowly leaking air around the valve stem. Aargh! But getting her back together right now. So, a tire pressure check and a short cruise around the block this afternoon. Once it stops sprinkling rain.
Also, got the broke front signal replaced. All the lights work off the key but the brake light threw me for a short loop. But after going through wiring schematic found its powered from the kill sw. Which I had in the kill position. Works as intended, w warning light on the dash, light monitor unit and hit both brake controls. :2thumbup:
I didnt pull the airbox all the way out. They got it swedged in there pretty darn tight.
I pulled the snorkel off, and was able to pull the top just enough to slip the old out filter and new into place.
I can see its kinda nasty under the box though. I jammed a tooth brush around under there as best I could. Mostly from front side. I will re-visit that once the snow starts flying. And I strip her down for paint work.
Made a decent deal on a clean old stock BMW seat, to replace the giant seat currently installed. Its a solo seat similar to yours. Only without the nifty little fold down back rest yours has.
and Yes, its pretty brown under and behind the throttle bodies. Is that a sign of leaking fuel?
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I put 712s on mine also. No leaks from the old stems.
The breather hose sucks and blows so some of that grunge is a result of that.
The throttle body rubbers will also contribute to the mess along with general road spray and a little coolant leaking.
The lower half of the filter airbox plenum was a mess on mine, glad I tidied it up.
My K75 was mostly in boxes so it was easy to go the full route on cleaning.
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I had the same slow leak around the valve stem on my RS. I painted some soapy water around the stem and with about 25 PSI in the tire gently rocked the stem back and forth to work some of the soapy water into the joint. Gently spun the stem back and forth about 45 degrees and the leak stopped.
Took about 5 minutes all together. Was very glad I didn't have to remove the tire or even take the wheel off the bike.
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I had the same slow leak around the valve stem on my RS. I painted some soapy water around the stem and with about 25 PSI in the tire gently rocked the stem back and forth to work some of the soapy water into the joint. Gently spun the stem back and forth about 45 degrees and the leak stopped.
Took about 5 minutes all together. Was very glad I didn't have to remove the tire or even take the wheel off the bike.
OK going to try it.
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I had the same slow leak around the valve stem on my RS. I painted some soapy water around the stem and with about 25 PSI in the tire gently rocked the stem back and forth to work some of the soapy water into the joint. Gently spun the stem back and forth about 45 degrees and the leak stopped.
Took about 5 minutes all together. Was very glad I didn't have to remove the tire or even take the wheel off the bike.
little soap a couple twists and I think it may have done the trick. WOW thanks dude! Ill recheck it in a couple days.
Finally stopped raining so gonna take her out for a shakedown cruise in the next hour or two!!!
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"Finally stopped raining so gonna take her out for a shakedown cruise in the next hour or two!!!"
Do it and begin to get it tuned in. Run it hard and then dump the oil. Wouldn't hurt.
Between storms out here on the Central Coast also.
Been months of no measurable precipitation. Got about and inch, maybe more.
Just back from a little romp on mine.
The foot switch for the brake light is still giving me trouble.
Operation is inconsistent at best, guess that little arm has been bent way too many ways!
Ebay replacements on watchlist. Cheap enough.
Front hand switch is fine, I just want to put the bulb monitoring unit and my mind at ease.
Annoying having to pull that cover and set up my meter again and again.
Don in Nipomo
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little soap a couple twists and I think it may have done the trick. WOW thanks dude! Ill recheck it in a couple days.
Finally stopped raining so gonna take her out for a shakedown cruise in the next hour or two!!!
:2thumbup:
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Got her all bolted back up today and took her for a real ride.
She fumigated the garage on startup but completely cleared up as soon as I hit the pavement.
Once home...Set idle speed down to 950ish. According to the gauge.
Everything functions exactly as the boys over at BMW intended. She is a smoooth, rock solid machine.
I am delighted.
Not gonna do too much real work over the next month or so, its Whitetail Season. Just gonna keep cleaning (need to get the engine shining to match rear end, lol) and ride her when weather permits.
After hunting season I will strip her down and prep her for paint and finish the clean up and go through the throttle bodies, pull oil pan, etc.
I will keep posting pics and questions as I get things done. Thanks for all the tips guys.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0094_zps9ziwexgm.jpg)
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:2thumbup:
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If you take a small mill bastard to the face of those fins on the block that surround the oil sightglass it will really "pop"!
Don in Nipomo
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:2thumbup: Looks like your off to a good start. Ride it and enjoy it. You have just got to love the Bricks.
Regards Martin.
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Nice looking bike! The more you ride it the better it will run after being neglected for a while. Been looking at my RT sitting in the garage waiting for the fairing to go back on. These machines look great in the raw. You have a great one there.
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Thanks guys! I now see why guys get so hooked on BMW. :riding:
I think Im past my Honda phase.
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Hey guys, doing some homework. I came across some specs and they say this machine has 11 to 1 compression.
Should I be burning nothing less than 91 octane fuel?
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I use super or premium fuel in my K75. Chevron Techron or Union 76.
Do a compression test on your K75, you should get some pretty high psi readings.
Not quite diesel range but up there...
I was pleasantly surprised with 175 across the board, could be my old tester but I was impressed.
Don in Nipomo
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Up here in Wisco, I use premium no alcohol whenever available, which is usually.
Otherwise I use regular ole cheapy gas if I'm forced to burn alcohol - never had problems with it.
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I burn 91 octane pure gas in the Hondas, simply due to the carbs. Looks like Im starting the hunt for something even better.
For anyone hunting pure gas = no ethonal.
Heres the link to the list. http://pure-gas.org Click on your state at the bottom.
You can add a station to the list if you already got one and its not on there. Or delete if a station stops selling it.
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I have two gas stations nearby that sell pure 91 octane gasoline and for two years that is pretty much all I ran in my three bricks. This year I tried using the 10% ethanol 87 octane, and found that there was no discernible difference in performance and only a 2 or 3 mpg difference in fuel efficiency. As a result, I now pretty much run that stuff full time and pocket the $2+ difference in cost at each fillup which adds up as I ride my bikes over 500 miles per week.
However, at the end of the season I will be switching over to no ethanol gas mixed with a dose of Techron and Stabil for the last week or two of operation and this is what they will be put away for the winter with. I'm doing this to avoid the documented problems that are caused by old ethanol gas.
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Good info, thanks bud.
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I've always run regular in mine. Manual states 91 ROZ which I believe translates to 87 ROM. Cannot get real gas easily around here but have not had any problems with the corny stuff.
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Thanks Chaos. I pumped 2 gal of 87 in just to get me by til cold weather hits. Simply doing shorter test rides for now. But I will run 90 pure gas after that. As I always keep a small/fresh supply on hand for the other bikes.
I see your in SW Ohio. I got a buddy/acquaintance from Cinci. He own Piston Society motorcycle rental. http://pistonsociety.com Keeps a couple BMWs for rental. He a BIG fan of BMWs old and new.
Every spring we meet up w a group in Kentucky for a long weekend of riding. This spring, on our way home. I am planning to stop in and see his new store along w a Zero bike hes going to have.
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Digging all the sand and crap out packed around water pump has been a chore.
On a lighter note...
Got the "new/old" solo seat installed and adjusted. I dont think the dude on ebay was lying. He said it came on his 88 when he bought it new. Replaced it w a 2 up seat after only having it 3 days and its been packed and stored ever since.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0962_zpsuwgfarzq.jpg)
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Nice profile/shop shot there. The 87s do have a certain raw quality to them, the solo seat looks good!
I have the "rumbleseat" Corbin on mine but I haven't flipped to the rear position except for once or twice with the wife.
What's the build date on your bike? I'll check mine...
Don in Nipomo
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according to the vin decoder... http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
June 86
And thanks, its a cramped little 24x24 garage I got. But I have installed both A/C and heat. Should have house paid off in 2 years...Then I will build a nicer garage.
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10/86 here, on the sticker and with VINdecode.
I need a larger studio myself.
Gunna retire, sell the house, move North and get a larger place.
Don in Nipomo
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Gunna retire, sell the house, move North and get a larger place.
Don in Nipomo
Retire in 10yrs. Sell the house and move SOUTH, a smaller house/ bigger garage.
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Fingers crossed this leak is simply the engine cover gasket and not the mating surface twixed the cases.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0969_zps8sofrjdl.jpg)
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Fingers crossed this leak is simply the engine cover gasket and not the mating surface twixed the cases.
Most likely it is the cover gasket, bud. Re-torque the screws or replace the gasket and screw bushings. One of the causes of a leak from the crankcase cover can be the bike's falling over onto it.
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Most likely it is the cover gasket, bud. Re-torque the screws or replace the gasket and screw bushings. One of the causes of a leak from the crankcase cover can be the bike's falling over onto it.
thanks, I will give it a try. And yes, it has fallen over at some point.
I went forward and ordered the gasket along w enough bushings to do both covers. They are all showing age cracks.
and I already have the two valve cover gasket's that came in the tune up kit.
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Snugged it up maybe just 2 lbs. Its looking like the leak has moved. I also checked the valve cover bolts...one bolt was finger tight. Ha.
I also just ordered a new 1/4" drive inch/lb torque wrench. Ive always gotten by w my cheapy 3/8"...but shits gettin serious now.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_0979_zpsb1pmpo9d.jpg)
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While looking at installing the tragkorb brackets. Discovered my right peg plate is bent pretty badly. About an inch.
Also discovered Right plates are non-exsistant on ebay. Hooray. They got like 10 left plates. Found the ONLY available, mis-match Right k100 plate I believe will work w a bit of hole drilling. So I will have a spare of sorts until I can find the correct part.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0987_zps1dnyfwnj.jpg)
The tragkorb bracket should be mounted behind the plate. Ugh.
One option...With a bit of grinding on the tragkorb bracket I could make it work bolting it to the front side of the plate. However I would have to completely delete the rear foot peg. AND I do have the solo seat on it.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0985_zpsnysdkqqn.jpg)
Moving forward w option 2... I bolted a make-shift pry bar to the rear foot peg hole. And began gently pulling it.
I think we all know where this is headed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0988_zpsanfyrzt0.jpg)
Yep, cracked it. But now its straight and as luck has it. I am buddies w the worlds greatest aluminum welder, just down the hallway at work.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0992_zpsf16teunz.jpg)
So, It fits really nice now. Will drop it off w Gary tomorrow.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0990_zpsrarlckac.jpg)
Also found what was making that occasional pesky little squeak in the rear end. The spring was just kissing the rim.
So got that taken care of.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0994_zpsnt80gnne.jpg)
Over all a pretty productive weekend.
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" Right plates are non-exsistant on ebay. Hooray. They got like 10 left plates. "
Wait until next week, or did all of the Ks crash and fall over to the right?
Unistrut jigging is a good thing. Bike is looking oh so clean!
Don in Nipomo
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" Right plates are non-exsistant on ebay. Hooray. They got like 10 left plates. "
Wait until next week, or did all of the Ks crash and fall over to the right?
Unistrut jigging is a good thing. Bike is looking oh so clean!
Don in Nipomo
Ha! Yes Im thinking they all did fall over to the right.
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" Right plates are non-exsistant on ebay. Hooray. They got like 10 left plates. "
Wait until next week, or did all of the Ks crash and fall over to the right?
It is becoming even clearer that we crash on the right side maybe even 10/ 11
Would not want to crunch the cam sprockets on the left.
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Yes, these bikes have a strong tendency to fall to the right, probably because the sidestand is on the left. It is not just footpeg plates. Just search eBay for mirrors, fairing lower panels, and side cases. Left side components outnumber right by at least 5 to 1.
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It doesn't seem to matter whether you drive on the left or the right, they always see to go down on the right hand side. I've had 4 drops in 19 years all on the right hand side, mates had 2 drops in 4 years both right hand. Every time the side stand did not enter in to it :dunno I would love to know why, I have pondered on it and I still can't come up with a logical reason.
Regards a puzzled Martin.
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mine went down on the left. guess that makes me special!
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mine went down on the left. guess that makes me special!
Your not left handed,are you? :falldown:
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He just wants to be different, he won't conform to set Brick standards for falling off.
Regards a disappointed Martin. :nono
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mine went down on the left. guess that makes me special!
Dude, that sucks. I hope you came out better than your machine.
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Left side components outnumber right by at least 5 to 1.
Unless your looking for right peg plates, then its 10 to none.
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This machine in particular has been down on both sides. :musicboohoo:
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Got the plate welded up. And I may have to fix a water pump leak.
So far I have 2 drops hit the floor since I pressure washed the front and oil pan last Saturday.
I suppose it could be left over engine degreaser and muck, that didnt get fully rinsed out.
It has no oil or antifreeze odor at all. Time will tell.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0997_zpspmzdit95.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0999_zps8vlmpvpu.jpg)
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Replaced the leaky crank cover gasket and bolt grommets.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1005_zps2tznjjrn.jpg)
Found the issue. The cover has been tweaked when PO dropped it. If this dont seal I will have to work to straighten or re-face it.
I now see, there is plenty of room (engineered into design) for over torquing the bolts to warp a damaged cover. So, that is a possibly plan A.
BMW MUST have seen this coming to allow concession for that. I am surprised they didnt, also, employ a finer thread bolt for this.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1007_zpsdxx0rsg6.jpg)
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tragkorbs mounted and ready to ride til snow flies. Then think about doing something w that awful black paint job. And re-assess the water pump leak.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1009_zpstb6zpr6r.jpg)
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It's a bugger when they leak oil.The design is good,the grommet compression is all that is needed to pull in the covers to mate with the sealing surface,if all is flat and true.The landing on the bolts is measured as a stop for any more (excess)grommet compression.You could machine these back a little.A finer thread into aluminium(aluminum),the cheese of all metals would be a design error resulting in the need for a thread insert.You may be stuck with needing a new cover.Refacing,you could try wet n dry sandpaper on a mirror or "flat glass".good luck.
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Thanks bud. So far, the new gasket is doing its job. So no worries as of yet.
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Hey guys, can you please tell me. Are the rubber tank grommets supposed to remain fixed on the tank pins. OR, fit into the frame brackets and remain fixed on the frame?
thanks
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202016-11-13%20at%2010.42.25%20AM_zpszx4cgmvo.png)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0357_zpskwq8sbea.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0362_zpsx5vuda1g.jpg)
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Mine stay on the frame although one of them, on my K100 did have a tendency to stick to the peg on the tank. I glued it to the frame, and use a little bit of Vaseline on the peg.
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Ten-4 bud. :2thumbup:
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Both of mine are on the tank - which given the state of my bike would indicate they should stay on the frame....
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Mine stay on the frame although one of them, on my K100 did have a tendency to stick to the peg on the tank. I glued it to the frame, and use a little bit of Vaseline on the peg.
10-4 on that, and Vaseline for all grommet-peg fittings.
No glue on mine yet, but I did buy new grommets and clips.
Don in Nipomo
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I always was told that anything oil-based was a no-no for rubber....
Pure silicone to keep soft and not degrade...
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I can say this. I got em on the frame now, and w a bit of silicone tank pops on easily and the clips are a lot easier to install and remove.
Thanks everyone.
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No luck Whitetail hunting,yet.
Got busy on the waterpump rebuild.
first thing I found was PO had stripped the head on the drain plug.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0410_zpsqhq3yaod.jpg)
I may have found the issue...
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0417_zpsjfeqrr3g.jpg)
Cleaning and re-assemble.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0434_zpsdcioim8l.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0423_zpsfkowxf3h.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0431_zpscxv21e4h.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0440_zpsgsqifstp.jpg)
All done but the finishing part. Waiting for the new drain bolt to arrive.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0444_zpspyxqfu5b.jpg)
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That pump cover appearance is now Harleyesque. A new bandana is in your future.
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That pump cover appearance is now Harleyesque. A new bandana is in your future.
LOL, Oh yes. Shocking, how little it takes to make a K look exactly like a harley.
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LOL, Oh yes. Shocking, how little it takes to make a K look exactly like a harley.
The thought of slaving away with all that pride of ownership polishing is daunting,to me.Bricks are relatively free from this requirement but hey,if your into that then go for it.I love the utility aspect of my K.I hardly ever clean mine either...my kind of street cred?
As for my (old)Triumph,that is another story.It's definitely not utilitarian and the fettling process catches the next thing to fall off.
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The thought of slaving away with all that pride of ownership polishing is daunting,to me.Bricks are relatively free from this requirement but hey,if your into that then go for it.I love the utility aspect of my K.I hardly ever clean mine either...my kind of street cred?
As for my (old)Triumph,that is another story.It's definitely not utilitarian and the fettling process catches the next thing to fall off.
Im right there w ya. The polish took all of 15 minutes. I just didnt want to deal w headache of anymore shitty chipping paint. The cover will gain a real nice smooth oxidation over the next year or two and will match the rest of the engine nicely. Same as the timing cover.
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Hey guys after some searches I havent found anything.
Im looking to strip the paint off the plastics. I tried some lacquer thinner, wouldnt touch it. I ran out of acetone. But, plan to try that next.
I prefer not to use "stripper" on plastics. However if you have a product that works well and you like.
please let me know.
Thanks
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What kind of shape is the paint in? Stripping plastic is a pretty iffy process, especially when trying to remove two part paint. Any chemical strong enough to soften the paint will probably damage the plastic as well.
On my bikes I just wet sand the old paint with 600 to break the shine and provide a good surface for a white or light gray sanding primer. If the old paint has any runs or sags I'll hit those spots with 220 followed by 320 before doing the 600. Chips or dings are filled with Bondo or spot putty after the first coat of primer.
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What kind of shape is the paint in? Stripping plastic is a pretty iffy process, especially when trying to remove two part paint. Any chemical strong enough to soften the paint will probably damage the plastic as well.
On my bikes I just wet sand the old paint with 600 to break the shine and provide a good surface for a white or light gray sanding primer. If the old paint has any runs or sags I'll hit those spots with 220 followed by 320 before doing the 600. Chips or dings are filled with Bondo or spot putty after the first coat of primer.
Thanks, this is what I will be doing. Sanding and filling as you suggested and strip the tank bare. The tank paint is the worst of it. The radiator shroud is really the only part badly beaten.
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Martin suggested a clutch lever mod that made perfect sense to me. So, I did my best to duplicate.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0493_zpsqygpzjb2.jpg)
Cleaned it up a bit w a half assed quick polish before starting work.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0498_zpsugxbrwc7.jpg)
a ball point pen tube fits tightly through the bearings to help keep them clean. Flushed out shavings before pulling the pen out, then flushed again after.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0501_zpsv2wgzlmr.jpg)
Done. Thanks Martin. :2thumbup:
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0505_zpsgd0tgmrd.jpg)
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The polish took all of 15 minutes.
That's 15 minutes you'll never get back though. Now, you're doing it to the clutch release arm! Onlookers will be blinded! The elderly are distressed about your use of time!
:hehehe
Your modification is well-done and an example for others. :2thumbup:
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Haha. thanks bro! P.S. a whole lot of people in this world spent that same 15 minutes watching cats play the piano on youtube.
Im not one to judge. However I feel my time was better spent.
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However I feel my time was better spent.
Better spent than raising your ranking and leveling up in GTA? Anybody can fix up a Brick, but it takes dedication to have a full arsenal, the ability to call in mercenaries and love kitty-watching.
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:2thumbup: Now to put the final finish on it you will have to polish the sump plug.
Regards Martin.
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:2thumbup: Now to put the final finish on it you will have to polish the sump plug.
Regards Martin.
LOL! you guys! Im sure glad I rode hondas before I got here. You all would send a real Harley rider home in tears. :hehehe
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Better spent than raising your ranking and leveling up in GTA? Anybody can fix up a Brick, but it takes dedication to have a full arsenal, the ability to call in mercenaries and love kitty-watching.
I have no idea what a "GTA" is??? ha!
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this kitty cats not playing piano but Im betting she can polish parts.
Did you ask your mother's permission before you posted that photo, trek?
:nono
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Removed the photo. sorry if you or anyone else found it offensive.
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Removed the photo. sorry if you or anyone else found it offensive.
Made me think of this scene... Hope it doesn't offend anyone's delicate sensibilities.
(http://cdn.hark.com/images/000/738/452/738452/hey-baxter-i-finally-got-all_clink_large.jpg)
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I have no idea what a "GTA" is??? ha!
Grand Theft Auto video game....
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Made me think of this scene... Hope it doesn't offend anyone's delicate sensibilities.
(http://cdn.hark.com/images/000/738/452/738452/hey-baxter-i-finally-got-all_clink_large.jpg)
Hahaha! Yes, I'm a very sensitive guy and easily offended.
Grand Theft Auto video game....
Which is why I've never heard of it.
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Removed the photo. sorry if you or anyone else found it offensive.
I checked in late to this circus. Now all I think about is, what was that photo?
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I checked in late to this circus. Now all I think about is, what was that photo?
Just a cute little kitty cat...not playing the piano.
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Now all I think about is, what was that photo?
As your fever recedes, you'll forget all about it, Chaos.
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I checked in late to this circus. Now all I think about is, what was that photo?
+1
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I checked in late to this circus. Now all I think about is, what was that photo?
Just Kitty in a Kat suit. Did I ever mention I had puss named Kayos?
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Just Kitty in a Kat suit. Did I ever mention I had puss named Kayos?
I didn't have an entry for today in my diary until you mentioned that.
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You're welcome.
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Spent the weekend Whitetail hunting w my buddies 8 yo son. We saw deer everywhere but in front of us. LOL
Even still it was a riot. We had a great time.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0516_zpshzmhjuta.jpg)
Got up early this morning so I got busy replacing that pesky weeping O-ring on the sending unit before leaving for work.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0564_zpsl0z8aj2i.jpg)
Dont drop the lock washers from the fuel pump connections into the tank. Ha
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0578_zpsswk2e4fw.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0565_zpsyy74sl7m.jpg)
Nasty.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0570_zpshk3cd1p0.jpg)
Fair amount of pitting. If it continues to weep I will have to re-visit w a light smear of metal mender.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0572_zpsismjyj3u.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0571_zpscfvb6t2j.jpg)
cleaned bolts and a small dab of teflon sealant.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0575_zpsfugk8c6q.jpg)
Fresh self adhesive heat shield I will cut and fit after paint.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0569_zps1jxnovkn.jpg)
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Checked valves, all in spec.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0647_zpsxuvqfl0u.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0653_zpslogrlwmi.jpg)
Fresh seals and bolt grommets ready to go in...Just waiting for Parts Plus to open for a dap of RTV.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0654_zpsjddrmmg1.jpg)
Removed a bit of wear and tear from the cover.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0655_zpsmnrx2jpy.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0657_zpsmqz70lre.jpg)
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Good job but now your going to have to polish the whole engine, otherwise it will look odd. :clap:
Regards Martin.
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Good job but now your going to have to polish the whole engine, otherwise it will look odd. :clap:
Regards Martin.
Ha, I have a funny feeling its gonna look odd to some, no matter what I do.
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Hey guys, Ive never heard of this and Im not understanding the reason step 4. (Lean drop) Would someone please clarify the benefit? Thanks
Ive got plenty of carb experience but zero fuel injection experience.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202016-12-14%20at%206.35.39%20PM_zpsdrtonhor.png)
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i don't know where you got that, but don't adjust, or try to adjust, the butterfly screws. There is a brass by-pass screw on each throttle body that is used for synch adjustment. The butterfly valves were set at the factory and the screws locked.
If you've messed around with honda carbs then you probably know about adjusting the pilot screws for idle rpm drop. This may be some equivalent approach for fuel injection but it's not anything i would try.
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Hey guys, Ive never heard of this and Im not understanding the reason step 4. (Lean drop)
Step 4 is an adjustment used in the absence of a CO gas analyzer to insure that—all other adjustments being accurate—the engine is not running rich and emitting excess CO and causing other performance problems. That's the presumed benefit. A discussion of the throttle body balancing technique in this K100 Forum thread (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1526-how-to-balance-the-throttle-bodies-solved) is also illuminating.
All this may seem eerily similar to synching dual or multiple carbs in olden times except with K-bikes, a manometer and tachometer are being used to attain balance instead of just a pair of ears listening to the engine performance during the carb adjustments while Led Zepplin is throbbing in the background. :giggles
Wrenchers who want to relive those golden moments should get a /5. :yes
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i don't know where you got that, but don't adjust, or try to adjust, the butterfly screws. There is a brass by-pass screw on each throttle body that is used for synch adjustment. The butterfly valves were set at the factory and the screws locked.
If you've messed around with honda carbs then you probably know about adjusting the pilot screws for idle rpm drop. This may be some equivalent approach for fuel injection but it's not anything i would try.
Thank you sir and yes, I read all about not touching the butterfly adjusters. And adjusting the synch w by pass adj. (BMW doesnt seem to have much faith in customers abilities. LOL.) Dont get me wrong. Butterflies can certainly be very cantankerous and critical things. Amateur do not attempt sorta stuff. Way more to butterfly centering and setup than the much over advised "use a pair of straightened paper clips to set up synch" adjustment procedure. :yes
As with the grossly over simplified idle rpm drop procedure for carbs. Which, even still your using to find the fastest rpm. Not being directly advised to screw it up.
Thats why I question this procedure step 4. It seems like it may very well be a bad piece of info.
found the procedure pdf link here...
[size=78%]http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,692.0.html[/size]
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Step 4 is an adjustment used in the absence of a CO gas analyzer to insure that—all other adjustments being accurate—the engine is not running rich and emitting excess CO and causing other performance problems. That's the presumed benefit. A discussion of the throttle body balancing technique in this K100 Forum thread (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1526-how-to-balance-the-throttle-bodies-solved) is also illuminating.
All this may seem eerily similar to synching dual or multiple carbs in olden times except with K-bikes, a manometer and tachometer are being used to attain balance instead of just a pair of ears listening to the engine performance during the carb adjustments while Led Zepplin is throbbing in the background. :giggles
Those who want to relive those golden moments should get a /5. :yes
Thanks Laitch. I will certainly read through the procedure in the morning.
Setting carbs on an air cooled unit to the lean side at idle will certainly produce hesitation on take off as well as overheating while sitting in traffic. I just dont yet know enough about this whole "fuel injected, liquid cooled black magic". HA
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i don't know where you got that, but don't adjust, or try to adjust, the butterfly screws. There is a brass by-pass screw on each throttle body that is used for synch adjustment. The butterfly valves were set at the factory and the screws locked.
If you've messed around with honda carbs then you probably know about adjusting the pilot screws for idle rpm drop. This may be some equivalent approach for fuel injection but it's not anything i would try.
actually, those instructions are perfect and the standard way to tune the FI. the instructions say butterfly BYPASS SCREWS. not the other verboten adjusters. the last step is as Liatch describes. leans out the mixture just a touch. 50 rpm ain't much, but enough to get the AFR close without use of WBO2 sensor.
follow those instructions to the letter. they work.
ps - i did a lot of work with dual sidedraft carbs on old BMW cars. was never a real fan of the listen/idle drop tuning. always used carb synch tools, lots of jets and an installed WBO2 meter to get them right. FI is so much easier!
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Easy to check the mixture, with the engine warm and idling at 1000 rpm press the green starter button. If the mixture is correct the idle will stay the same or rise slightly. If it drops or rises significantly it will require adjusting, either lean drop method or exhaust gas analyzer. After having three different places try to get mine right and failing, I bought my own Gunson Analyzer for about $300.00 about 19 years ago, it has paid for itself multiple times. Screwing the 5mm allen head adjustment screw CW leans the mixture CCW richens it. If you do adjust it use very small increments. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gunson-Gastester-exhaust-gas-analyzer-/281777542267?hash=item419b40147b:g:H7UAAOSwu4BV1LsH
Regards Martin.
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Screwing the 5mm allen head adjustment screw CW leans the mixture CCW richens it.
Regards Martin.
Thank you Martin! Exactly the info I was looking for. Thus "Lean drop" is actually setting it up to run a bit richer at idle. To avoid popping on decel along w eliminating take off hesitaiton. Im sure, being watercooled, these bikes are less prone to overheating if they go a bit leaner on acceleration. Still none the less dont want to burn a valve. The CO tester would make a fine addition to the tool box. :2thumbup:
I have installed dual digital O2 sensors on my 76 Honda 360.
It has proven to be a great success. (As compared to seemingly endless plug chops to "read" plugs.)
It shows A/F mix in real time. For tuning idle as well as jetting throughout the entire rpm range while riding. Those CV carbs can be a real pain.
Also, been looking at purchasing a second header for modification to do the same w this K. A modified (slightly longer) header w a single bung welded for an O2 sensor would be easy enough to swap in and out for quick springtime check, set and forget. Because the injectors arent tuned as individuals. The sensor would require mounting twixed the header and muffler.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sVj0Goupoo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sVj0Goupoo)
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the air flow meter provides the provision for idle mixture adjustment. There is a screw in the housing of the air flow meter that is used as a valve for an air bypass channel. The air flowing through this channel is not measured by the air flow meter and so affects the fuel/air mixture. Turning the screw clockwise blocks off the channel and so richens the mixture. Turning the screw counterclockwise opens the passage and so leans the mixture, as the extra air is not measured by the air flow meter and so the computer does not compensate for it.
Whether it's carburators or throttle bodies, whenever a thread like this pops up there is always someone who has an "uh-oh" moment that has removed the plenum plate or dismantled the carb rack or twiddled with the butterfly screws...
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Trek I'll save you a bit of pain if you do buy a Gunson. There are probably better dearer ones out there but I love mine. When you first get it don't be disappointed with it's light weight cheap looking construction, mine is still going after 19 years. I borrowed a professional one worth a supposed $5000.00 which had more features, and did a comparison and came up with the same readings. I used it again 2 years ago to check the calibration and settings were still accurate. There is a newer Model G4125 I don't think internally it would be much difference your call. When calibrating the bike take it for a 10-15 min ride to warm it up. I have a large fan pointed at my radiator while tuning and the bikes fan going, this is due to the fact that in order to get it right it requires time and patience. Follow the instructions to the letter allow the machine time to settle when doing the initial calibration and set it up so the condensation can drain. Once going adjust in very small increments, sometimes you start going one direction then you have to go the other way, be patient. It is important not to rev the engine once the probe is inserted, if you need to rev the engine remove the probe. It is very important once you have completed the tuning to leave the unit connected to a power source and allow it to purge. This is the last part of tuning, so make sure you have done the throttle body air bypass balancing, and valve clearance check in order for it to be accurate. Treat it with care, don't drop it, don't lend it and it will serve you well.
Good luck Martin.
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Whether it's carburators or throttle bodies, whenever a thread like this pops up there is always someone who has an "uh-oh" moment that has removed the plenum plate or dismantled the carb rack or twiddled with the butterfly screws...
THanks dude good info in there, I assure I'm not about touch any part of THIS system until I have a pretty clear idea of what's going on in there.
Got more homework to do yet.
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Trek I'll save you a bit of pain if you do buy a Gunson. There are probably better dearer ones out there but I love mine. When you first get it don't be disappointed with it's light weight cheap looking construction, mine is still going after 19 years. I borrowed a professional one worth a supposed $5000.00 which had more features, and did a comparison and came up with the same readings. I used it again 2 years ago to check the calibration and settings were still accurate. There is a newer Model G4125 I don't think internally it would be much difference your call. When calibrating the bike take it for a 10-15 min ride to warm it up. I have a large fan pointed at my radiator while tuning and the bikes fan going, this is due to the fact that in order to get it right it requires time and patience. Follow the instructions to the letter allow the machine time to settle when doing the initial calibration and set it up so the condensation can drain. Once going adjust in very small increments, sometimes you start going one direction then you have to go the other way, be patient. It is important not to rev the engine once the probe is inserted, if you need to rev the engine remove the probe. It is very important once you have completed the tuning to leave the unit connected to a power source and allow it to purge. This is the last part of tuning, so make sure you have done the throttle body air bypass balancing, and valve clearance check in order for it to be accurate. Treat it with care, don't drop it, don't lend it and it will serve you well.
Good luck Martin.
thanks bud. :2thumbup:
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Good morning fellas. Feeling confident I now know enough about this fuel inj to be dangerous. Prepping to warm her up to check sync.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0889_zpsumndpfpu.jpg)
The new Auto Zone battery the PO installed is junk. I had it fully charged and it welded the solenoid contacts. Pulled solenoid opened it up to clean up. Ended up just replacing it w a better solenoid I had bought for my garden tractor.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0885_zpsuvv4kefy.jpg)
Then, found the battery wouldnt even pick the new solenoid. HA. So jumped battery directly to starter. Fully charged it wouldnt crank the engine one turn. JUNK ARGH! After some digging on here I found and ordered the highly recommended Odyssey Extreme PC680.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0887_zpsb1wxgbvv.jpg)
While waiting for the battery I did some more tests and found I get 12v to solenoid by pulling the clutch but only 9v through the Neutral sw. Hmm. So, dug into that. Found I got a flaky switch. Keeping in neutral a wiggle of the shift lever I read as high as 14+ ohms through the switch. So got a new one.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0880_zpsuijmdduj.jpg)
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Also, while digging for Neutral sw info. Stumbled across a Bulletin detailing the water pump rebuild. Found I should have installed the new style impeller along w new slip seal. So I ordered all that. Apparently the Special tool for properly installing the slip seal is no longer available...I found Bike bandit offers the tool for sale. Ordered and a couple hours later recieved email "Unavailable" So texted my buddy Kiley down in B-ham Alabama. He is currently making the tool. Maybe in the mail Monday. :clap:
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0891_zpsnlnkx9ii.jpg)
Oh and ordered a fresh starter. As long as Im digging in this deep Im not gonna mess around. Plan to rebuild the original and putting it on the shelf.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0886_zpsyhwfk2gw.jpg)
Anyone got any words of wisdom about pulling the swing arm before I get started installing the new switch?
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Anyone got any words of wisdom about pulling the swing arm before I get started installing the new switch?
You might as replace the clutch rod boot and spring, remove the transmission then clean and lube the input shaft splines.
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You might as replace the clutch rod boot and spring, remove the transmission then clean and lube the input shaft splines.
Earlier I adjusted the clutch cable properly and the leak has completely stopped, (been better than a month now). However, I need to install my modified clutch lever. So, My plan while Im into it. Is pull the boot, clean inspect and seal w black. Or replace if needed.
Is the swing removal and re-install pretty much straight forward? Or any secret tips the manuals dont offer?
Ive had the final drive and drive shaft out twice, already. So, Im pretty good at doing that now. HA!
Idk about removing the transmission. I havent read any procedure for replacing the switch yet, though. LOL. does the tranny need to come out for that?
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Just read through the swing arm and gear selector sw procedure. Seems pretty easy and straight forward.
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The key part of the swingarm job is torquing the the screw and nut on the left hand pivot.
I am with Laitch on his recommendation to pull the transmission to lube the clutch splines. There is no need to pull the transmission completely. All you need do is slide it back about 2-3 inches on a couple 4" long 8mm bolts screwed into the engine. Then you can go in with a parts cleaning brush to put a light coat of lube on the spline. Shouldn't add more than two hours to the whole job and will help make shifting, especially down, smoother.
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The gear selector switch is subject to a lot of water and road crap, I coated mine with Plastidip using a small brush and it's been fine for about 15 years. I pulled apart my old one cleaned it up and Plastidipped it as a spare. You might also want to fit a grease nipple to the clutch pivot arm, occasional greasing keeps the road crap out.
Regards Martin.
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The key part of the swingarm job is torquing the the screw and nut on the left hand pivot.
I am with Laitch on his recommendation to pull the transmission to lube the clutch splines. There is no need to pull the transmission completely. All you need do is slide it back about 2-3 inches on a couple 4" long 8mm bolts screwed into the engine. Then you can go in with a parts cleaning brush to put a light coat of lube on the spline. Shouldn't add more than two hours to the whole job and will help make shifting, especially down, smoother.
AH, Now Im w you. I had misunderstood what I read earlier. INPUT shaft clutch splines. gotcha!
The gear selector switch is subject to a lot of water and road crap, I coated mine with Plastidip using a small brush and it's been fine for about 15 years. I pulled apart my old one cleaned it up and Plastidipped it as a spare. You might also want to fit a grease nipple to the clutch pivot arm, occasional greasing keeps the road crap out.
Regards Martin.
OK, just so happens I got a can of plastidip handy. Thanks.
I did your lever mod earlier, I will get it installed during this job.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0505_zpsgd0tgmrd.jpg)
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How could I forget that work of art, I will send mine for you to work your magic on. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.
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How could I forget that work of art, I will send mine for you to work your magic on. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.
10-4 bud! We can do'er up fancy. :euro
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HA! the gear selection switch might need a bit more than just a cleaning. Probably got some water in it, then suffered an Illinois winter or two.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_0902_zpslnpkm6zd.jpg)
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Mine looked worse than that, you have nothing to loose give it a go.
Regards Martin.
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Mine looked the same. Crap manufacturing IMHO.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Mine looked the same. Crap manufacturing IMHO.
Its starting to sound that way
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OK gents. Gave the new switch 4-5 thick coats of plastidip spray. Paying close attention to the seam where the cover meets the body and the wires go in.
Finally found 120mm bolts for tranny. So, heres my thinking.
gonna drain trans oil.
Pull alternator for cleaning and check bearings, etc.
pull coil pack.
Swap trans bolts for the longer bolts and ease trans back till I can access the spines, clean and lube.
Anything Im missing on this? Is threebond suitable for re-assembly or am I needing a better product?
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No need for Threebond between the transmission and the intermediate section.
I found that those 120mm bolts work really nice for guiding the alternator back into place as well.
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10-4 bud.
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-200816163635.png)
I see the small rod link between the clutch lever and side stand will need to come apart.
Should the clutch boot/push rod and all that remain intact and in position during all this?
Presently, I dont have any leaks from the trans but are there any o-rings / seals that I would considering replacing at this time?
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You can leave the lever on, but don't let it snap back to where the spring wants to put it -- that will tear the boot.
I loop a piece of cord or a long zip tie through the hole in the housing that retains the clutch cable, then around the lever.
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You can leave the lever on, but don't let it snap back to where the spring wants to put it -- that will tear the boot.
I loop a piece of cord or a long zip tie through the hole in the housing that retains the clutch cable, then around the lever.
Im picking up what your putting down. Thanks bud.
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Cut the heads off the 120mm bolts. Using the bolts to guide and support things was a huge help. Thanks!!!
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Toughest part of the whole job was removing the clutch lever without damaging the bushings and Unplugging the coils. HA!!!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_0959_zps2pathybt.jpg)
Splines look a bit dry and dirty. Otherwise appear to be in perfect condition.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_0970_zpselaaamk8.jpg)
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The clutch slides back and forth on those splines when you change gears. Dry splines don't wear that much in that application, but by allowing the clutch parts to slide a bit easier, your shifting will be noticeably smoother, especially downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.
With a couple table spoons of molybdenum disulfide added to the transmission oil you can have a transmission that shifts as smooth as a rice burner.
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The clutch slides back and forth on those splines when you change gears. Dry splines don't wear that much in that application, but by allowing the clutch parts to slide a bit easier, your shifting will be noticeably smoother, especially downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.
With a couple table spoons of molybdenum disulfide added to the transmission oil you can have a transmission that shifts as smooth as a rice burner.
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-200816163635.png)
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hey guys. I can easily tell the clutch rod is starting into its hole.
However, I can not get the splines to mesh.
The gear box just stops 5/8inch from home. (when the splines contact.)
I have reached in there w a long screwdriver and spun the shaft 50 times.
But cant seem to line them up to get it pushed on.
Is it just a matter of keep trying til it goes? OR am I missing something?
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_0995_zpsrxdwkmqf.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1005_zpsrx9rvaa6.jpg)
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Sounds like the clutch friction disc is out of alignment. What did you use to center it?
I think you need to pull the transmission and recenter everything.
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Phew just got it. I shifted it into gear gave the output shaft a small turn...aligning the input. on it slipped right into place. Wow.
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Thanks TMG for your quick response! As soon as the splines lined up it just slipped into place...smooth and easy.
Thats a pretty tight tolerance in there. HA
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Congratulations on successfully navigating the worst regular maintenance operation you will encounter on a brick. :2thumbup:
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Congratulations on successfully navigating the worst regular maintenance operation you will encounter on a brick. :2thumbup:
LOL THANKS! and thank god. If there is anything worse than that...this thing is getting lit ablaze and pushed off a cliff. HA!!!!
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Ok just to catch up. The reason I started all this...
New gear selction switch. Heavily coated w plastidip installed. Also, gave the gasket a coat of silicone that never cures...Time will tell.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_0986_zpsukul4uxr.jpg)
Now clean up everything that came off and bolt her back together to check throttle body sync.
Oh and fresh valve stems going in wheels.
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We got grease.
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(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1015_zpszvocmact.jpg)
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Need to quit for today. Wife has our Anniversary diner ready.
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Funny how things can go.
Spent 2 hours psyching myself up for "The Dreaded Swinger Boot Installation. I just knew this was going to be a terror.
So, procrastinated by cleaning up and installing coils.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1019_zpstu5h9w8z.jpg)
Then, no choice, ugh, cleaning up the swinger.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1023_zpsibwznfn5.jpg)
Got set up, gave it a couple half hearted wiggles and twists...and "THUMP!" It popped on.
I pulled and twisted and pulled like 50 times...it tugged back every time. THANK GOODNESS!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1024_zps4bb9simf.jpg)
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Got the fresh stems installed in the wheels. I dont have any idea what I was (or wasn't) thinking, not doing them when installing new tires a few months ago. Is what it is, all good now.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1034_zpsyqn6r7vl.jpg)
fresh header washers went in.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1047_zps5iq1dcvr.jpg)
Cleaning as she slowly comes back together.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1056_zpsg9oo4wwz.jpg)
The wife helped me carry and load plastics into the dishwasher. Had to remove the top rack to fit the tail in.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1036_zpsosnai9ze.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1040_zpsdkzmhdgo.jpg)
Once done she said "this will be the last time I put motorcycle parts in her dishwasher/oven." What up w that attitude?
Spot free complements of Cascade w sheeting action! Ready for an acetone wipe down then strip/sanding for paint.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1039_zpsusy74mkr.jpg)
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My buddy and his wife flew to Cuba last week to celebrate her birthday.
And all I got is a bunch of lousy Romeo y Julietas, Montecristo and Cohibas.
The reason the Cohibas arent wrapped, they came directly from the farmer.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/Screen%20Shot%202017-02-14%20at%206.11.08%20AM_zps5bsojp5b.png)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/Screen%20Shot%202017-02-14%20at%206.10.50%20AM_zpssf8emjrg.png)
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Ive run into a voltage drop issue. Tank is off bike so fuel pump and sending unit unplugged.
Battery is new and fully charged. Odyssey 680.
My starter relay picks just fine w the clutch. 12.5v
It does not pic w the neutral circuit. Dropping 2v somewhere. Only getting 10.5 to the starter relay coil.
Ive got 12.5v up to and in the instrument cluster.
Gear pcb feeding new gear switch 11.5v to ground on all three leads at the switch connector.
The gear display and neutral light both working fine. Opened up the cluster, cleaned the pin connections to the gear selector pcb.
checked the ribbon cable and diode.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1301_zps2i5ph7nc.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1305_zpslyinfgfw.jpg)
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(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1321_zpstmvfkk9d.jpg)
Reading 1.998 meg on diode, not sure what it should be?
Any help you can offer would be appreciated.
I also unplugged the load shed, fuel injection relays and the 12pin connector at the cluster not associated w the gear selector pcb.
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It does not pic w the neutral circuit. Dropping 2v somewhere. Only getting 10.5 to the starter relay coil. Ive got 12.5v up to and in the instrument cluster.
You've probably tracked down the problem by now, but maybe it's in the wire connecting the cluster to the right handlebar combo switch connector or within the connection's components.
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Just wanted to say Hi Eric, you've got a great thread going here. I'm U of I alumnus myself, (I wish I had a bike back in those days!). I'm also choking on my own bile that you could get your flying brick for $1000. Mine here in Spain cost me $2500 and that was a steal. I don't wanna pry, but how much are the repairs running? And what has been the biggest expense so far?
Cheers from Madrid, amigos!
-John
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm also choking on my own bile that you could get your flying brick for $1000.
Better than choking on somebody else's. Look on the bright side, Jónico.
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Very true, Laitch, very true. Is the gallbladder half empty or half full? It's all a matter of perspective! :giggles
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You've probably tracked down the problem by now, but maybe it's in the wire connecting the cluster to the right handlebar combo switch connector or within the connection's components.
Thanks Laitch, Its looking like the issue must be one of the components in the gear selection board. Currently working w rbm to figure it out. So long as his patience w me holds out.
Just wanted to say Hi Eric, you've got a great thread going here. I'm U of I alumnus myself, (I wish I had a bike back in those days!). I'm also choking on my own bile that you could get your flying brick for $1000. Mine here in Spain cost me $2500 and that was a steal. I don't wanna pry, but how much are the repairs running? And what has been the biggest expense so far? Cheers from Madrid, amigos! -John
Thanks John, Single biggest expense so far has been the Major/minor service kits from Bobsbmw.com. But they sure made it pretty easy to get things rolling. Its all the little rubber parts, really adding up. Replacing as I go. The biggest concern is availability, Theres a few parts, no longer available from bmw. I would like to replace but just cant find em.
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After rebuilding the pump I found out the old cast impeller cant be used w the new seal.
Also, after the first rebuild. The pump wasnt leaking but I didnt feel very confident about using sockets and a hammer to pound the seal onto the shaft. (youtube "DIY" vids) So asked my buddy to make me a proper installation tool.
So rebuild 2.0.
Upon disassembly I tore the seal apart to see how it was made.
As suspected I Found it is a VERY fragile thing. Its made up of 9 separate components. A ring inside actually appears to be nothing more than a brittle, soft compressed graphite like material. Its soft enough that I can write with it like a pencil. And crack it to pieces w my fingers.
Probably easily damaged under percussive shock of using a hammer to beat it onto the shaft.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1260_zpss6xxrtlj.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1330_zpsoq2sgt0d.jpg)
Installation tool. The OD of 34mm is bare minimum. It can be up to 40mm OD.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/BMW-tool_zps6sdersl6.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1328_zpsjveydflk.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1327_zpseylh48aj.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1331_zpstzj3kbwt.jpg)
I lubed up the oil seal and shaft w 90w and installed them.
Then thoroughly cleaned and dried the shaft w acetone. So the coolant seal wouldnt be prone to spinning on the shaft once fitted.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1333_zpskiszdihc.jpg)
Rather than pounding the thing w a hammer. Or, fumble farting around trying to turn it onto the shaft using the bolt.
I used a C-clamp to gently press the seal onto shaft and into housing at the same time.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1339_zpslwkwlqen.jpg)
This method worked out GREAT. I am really confident about the job.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1341_zpspue4vjqo.jpg)
Filled the small space between the seal and shaft w Permatex water pump sealer.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1346_zps1znztqax.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1344_zpsinut9zez.jpg)
Torqued to 33nm and ready to go on the bike.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1345_zpsz71mdawg.jpg)
Dont know if its for the best. Maybe threebond would be better. But, Using Ultra black to seal oil pump/engine surfaces and waterpump sealer on the cover side.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1347_zpsw6zjmyry.jpg)
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RBM saved me! Thanks to his patience and willing to share knowledge. He hung in w me.
Replaced the Gear Selector board and Ignition control unit along w a new stock starter relay.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1368_zps3qjmkcfe.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1360_zpso9f5tlj9.jpg)
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Thanks for the update. Any understanding why the gear selector board gave up the ghost?
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Thanks for the update. Any understanding why the gear selector board gave up the ghost?
rbm believes both issues were EMF caused by the collapsing field from the unprotected Trombetta starter relay I had installed.
Who am I to argue w that? ha. Im just a relay logic guy...not the solid state sort.
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Oh, and thanks goes to frankenduck and kbikeparts.com for coming through w the working Gear selector board! :2thumbup:
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Hey guys I was tinkering and noticed the Throttle position sw wasnt adjusted to "click" when closed.
After adjusting, I noticed it also clicks w stage 2 choke. But have read nothing about this.
Would anyone mind confirming this result for me.
The choke is adjusted as close to spec as I can kinda sorta best measure it. stage 1 = 1.5mm, stage 2=3.5mm
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I can't point to any documentation, but it stands to reason that the Throttle Position Switch will be activated with the "choke". THe switch is supposed to be activated at the point where the throttle is just opening. Since the "choke" is actually opening the throttle a small measured amount it makes sense that it would activate the switch.
Your question brings to mind two additional questions:
First, should the first "choke" position activate the Throttle Position Switch?
Second, Can the "choke" be used to test the throttle position switch setting rather than the twist grip with all it's free play? Seems like a better way.
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I used to have trouble hearing the TPS. So I got some small compatible female connectors and some wire and made up some jumper leads. I pull off the TPS connector connect the two jumper leads and use a multimeter. :nono However I was told by two people this is the wrong way to test the TPS and the voltage put out by the multimeter will burn out the micro switch in the TPS. As this is yet to happen I will continue to set mine this way. :dunno
Regards Martin.
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However I was told by two people this is the wrong way to test the TPS and the voltage put out by the multimeter will burn out the micro switch in the TPS.
??????? One of the switches in there is a micro switch rated at at least 1A at 125V. If you have a meter that will burn out that switch be very careful because you will electrocute yourself with it.
My meters run on a 9V battery. I find it hard to believe that a switch designed to work on vehicle with a 12V electrical system can be damaged by a low current 9V battery.
I have an old engine wiring harness, and one of these days I hope to be able to work up the ambition to finally make a set of test leads for the various electrical bits on the engine.
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Gryph I always follow expert advice 1/ Never use NGK leads OOOPS. 2/ Never test TPS with a multimeter OOOPS. 3/ Use only recommended OEM brake cylinders OOOPS. OOOPS here we go again see you in hell.
Regards a sinful but unrepentant Martin.
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I'll save you a spot near the barbie.
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Ok guys. Thanks.
I just thought it was funny that the BMW manual didnt say anything about the sw being operated by the choke.
Just next time your near your bike. Slowly twist the choke lever and give it a listen. Mine is actuating the switch at stage two.
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Or put your meter on it.
And let me know if yours does the same.
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The choke switch is not a choke it just increases the idle speed, therefore as it does this it will activate the TPS.
Regards Martin.
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OK I was just afraid my choke lever may be lifting too much (over the 3.5mm spec.) thus operating the TPS when it shouldnt.
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Forgot to add some to the other days efforts.
Found a decent deal on a complete cluster from Canada to cannibalize for spares.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202017-03-12%20at%206.54.08%20AM_zpszur8vgie.png)
While inside I also swapped in the working clock.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1399_zpstgdfoaub.jpg)
Deoxit bath for connectors
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1400_zpsjrqcggo5.jpg)
Now everything works as intended.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1403_zpsxm1epk3l.jpg)
And still have a working spare Gear board on the shelf.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1390_zpsynnrhsvx.jpg)
Also, cleaned all the connectors I could find. Including the 3 for the speedo.
After reading they can be troublesome.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1404_zpszp26etwo.jpg)
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HA!!! Well this is a $15.00 error, Live and learn.
The PO had this 1/4 torn off. And I just kept pulling and prying...til I finished it off.
Found it slips right off the other end REALLY easy.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1406_zps4srpaikd.jpg)
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GROSS! hahaha
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1410_zpsc2hdrcyy.jpg)
[size=78%](http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1413_zpswgy9kauf.jpg)[/size]
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1423_zpsyvliy9hk.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1420_zpsxxy5juuh.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1419_zpsxz7rvidz.jpg)
I dont believe any crud got down in there.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1424_zpsm9c6h8fx.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1425_zpstcw9kjiw.jpg)
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GROSS! hahaha
That's the classic look of a neglected engine though. One member was going to fill the murky indentations shown in your first photo with epoxy to aid future clean up or improve the look for anybody looking in there or something.
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That's the classic look of a neglected engine though. One member was going to fill the murky indentations shown in your first photo with epoxy to aid future clean up or improve the look for anybody looking in there or something.
HA! :2thumbup: Maybe I should just level off the whole thing w spackle.
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There goes half a day of my life cleaning the top of the engine...
No one will see....EVER!!!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1410_zps8dewqkfe.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1426_zps33wrzb7f.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1431_zps1lxnrpwi.jpg)
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Ahh but if they do they will say - damn that's a clean engine! Great job.
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Ahh but if they do they will say - damn that's a clean engine! Great job.
Thanks bud
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Can someone please explain the function of the throttle position switch? How does it affect the bike?
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Can someone please explain the function of the throttle position switch? How does it affect the bike?
Bert Vogel explains it in this (http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm). Its description is after the troubleshooting flow chart, along with descriptions of other parts of the fuel system.
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Thanks bud, I had read portions of that page. Just at the time wasnt looking for that info in particular.
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-200816163635.png)
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Just at the time wasnt looking for that info in particular.
Target fixation. :giggles
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Carb cleaner is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE...and can be easily ignited by electrical sparks causing fire, damage, injury and death.
AMATEUR DO NOT ATTEMPT!
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.
Everybody probably already knows all this, but here goes.
Sweetest injector cleaner ever.
Carb cleaner is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE...and can be easily ignited by electrical sparks causing fire, damage, injury and death.
AMATEUR DO NOT ATTEMPT!
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1434_zpsdlhbtuj8.jpg)
Valve stem w guts out, i drilled hole in cap just a bit smaller than tube so it fits tight or glue it in.
I pulled o-ring off injector and fit valve stem on the injector, screw on cap w tube.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1436_zps4aovva7j.jpg)
injector in vise, tube in can.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1440_zpsz3bn1ju1.jpg)
First- I touched wires to battery to open injector valve. Second- hit the spray can button.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1438_zpsmmxbammo.jpg)
Carb cleaner is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE...and can be easily ignited by electrical sparks causing fire, damage, injury and death.
AMATEUR DO NOT ATTEMPT!
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1439_zpsdwpsxuf2.jpg)
Carb cleaner is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE...and can be easily ignited by electrical sparks causing fire, damage, injury and death.
AMATEUR DO NOT ATTEMPT!
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.
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.
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I am a amateur and unsure as to what you are saying? Should I try this at home? :dunno
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Yes but please make sure to have a friend using a grinder on a good steel bar nearby when you do...
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I am a amateur and unsure as to what you are saying? Should I try this at home? :dunno
NO! hahaha
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The injectors were probably 50% when I started. Spraying multiple tight little streams. (you can kinda see the streams in the photo) Then they came around and blasted a sweet even fine fog.
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I am a amateur and unsure as to what you are saying? Should I try this at home? :dunno NO! hahaha
It's only because you're an Ozian, Martin. Here, it's our right to spray inflammable liquids around electrical connections then onto a pile of rags in the privacy of our homes. GBA!
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Rats Laitch you mean I don't have the right to self incineration, I might have to emigrate. :dunno :musicboohoo:
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Rats Laitch you mean I don't have the right to self incineration, I might have to emigrate. :dunno :musicboohoo:
The only place you can smoke here without offending is your home so you'll need to buy a cottage for your combustion rite.
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Laitch I'll have go find a palm tree and ruminate on this. But it's going to be a soggy session it's been raining and storming on and off. I think they have a plastic palm in the shopping centre that might do as a substitute. :dunno
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I also read there is a fine screen inside each one. So tonight I am gonna try to shoot some cleaner through backwards to flush the screen backwash style.
As it seems I am determined to burn down the place.
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Rats Laitch you mean I don't have the right to self incineration, I might have to emigrate. :dunno :musicboohoo:
Not emigrate,immolate.
Vaporized fuel can be such fun.
Hahahah!
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I found I had to hold the stem onto the injector. But, was able to backwash them.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1449_zps0ahomg2e.jpg)
Comparison shot. Really doesnt do it justice, can was new on the starting shot, pretty low on pressure for the final shot.
But you should easily see a difference.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/poor%20spray_zpsfacntwzb.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1452_zps3iy98byk.jpg)
As luck would have it O-rings, grommets, vac hose and new brackets arrived from bobsbmw.
New fuel line should arrive by weeks end.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1456_zps4dodiirc.jpg)
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Found a decent deal on a new Gunson Gastester.
](http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202017-03-20%20at%208.42.29%20PM_zpsao4z3jxb.png)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162331310173?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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That Gastester is a great tool. I couldn't find anyone who would set the idle mixture per the BMW CO spec of 1.5% for less than $125 and an hour on a dyno.
Bought mine from the U.K. for $129 shipped. This posting is an even better deal.
The CO pot on my RS was off by about 5% too rich. My K75RT was about 3% too rich. Was getting black plugs before, now they are reading correct, nice and tan. Couldn't have gotten the mixture correct as easily without it. The alternative was to make an adjustment take a plug reading, repeat, repeat, repeat...
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I've had mine for about 18 years, treat it with care, don't lend it out, be patient when using it and follow the instructions. One of my best buys although I think I paid about $300.00 AU from the UK. Other good tools when dealing with Bricks are a laser temperature gun, and a set of vacuum gauges.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks guys.
yep already got set of 4 vac gauges.
And a non contact thermometer.
So pretty much just waiting to hear from my buddy about the paint...he's got my tank.
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That Gastester is a great tool. I couldn't find anyone who would set the idle mixture per the BMW CO spec of 1.5% for less than $125 and an hour on a dyno.
Hey TMG, I thought I read it was to be set up at 2% ? Is 1.5 best in your experience?
From pg 13-09 BMW repair manual
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202017-03-22%20at%205.30.11%20AM_zpsnh7xczbk.png)
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I went for the lean end of the spec.
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I went for the lean end of the spec.
Long as I don't get any hesitation on take off. I will plan to shoot for the same.
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Has anyone done the plate mod to make it possible to check timing w a strobe on #3 plug?
Holy cow the Gunson arrived in record time.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1470_zpsvisfgoeu.jpg)
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For best results with the Gunson be patient, setting up is extremely important, give it time to settle. Allow time between small adjustments for it to settle otherwise you will be chasing your tail. Important, if you need to rev the bike at any stage remove the probe. And after use you must allow adequate time for it to purge. Also due to it's light weight build treat it with care, don't drop it and don't lend it. If a mate wants to borrow it, tell him you'll do the job for him. I've had stuff broken by people who didn't treat tools with adequate care. Mine is now 18 years old and is still going strong it should serve you for a long time.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks Martin, I read through the book already and will read it a couple more times just to be clear on the complete process before starting.
Whenever that happens. My paint buddies wife had internal bleeding for no apparent reason and they rushed her for surgery two weeks ago.
She just got out of the hospital. I havent contacted him other than to make sure all is well w her.
So, I have no idea when the tank will be here.
Pretty much just hunting info, cleaning and looking for things to mess with.
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Have you done timing light mod? If not, how are you checking timing without BMW tools?
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Has anyone done the plate mod to make it possible to check timing w a strobe on #3 plug?
Are you referring to the mod done by Rob Lentini described here (http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tom/tech/k75_timing.html) but he doesn't count as having done it? :giggles
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I've thought about doing it, maybe one day when I get bored. You guys subjected to snow have more time to tinker, although we have a cyclone approaching and weather here last week was pretty wet. :riding:
Regards Martin.
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Are you referring to the mod done by Rob Lentini described here (http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tom/tech/k75_timing.html) but he doesn't count as having done it? :giggles
Thats the one. Just curious how its worked out for others?
Also, it would sure be nice to find a few pics to go along w the write up. For us guys who have never even cracked the cover open.
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I've thought about doing it, maybe one day when I get bored. You guys subjected to snow have more time to tinker, although we have a cyclone approaching and weather here last week was pretty wet. :riding:
Regards Martin.
I feel your pain bro.
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OK done a bunch more reading about timing the thing. Im not messing w it. :riding:
If it aint broke...RIDE IT
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If it aint broke...RIDE IT :riding:
:2thumbup:
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OK done a bunch more reading about timing the thing. Im not messing w it. :riding:
If it aint broke...RIDE IT
Wise choice. The Hall Sensors are not subject to the issues of wear and high rpm float like the points of the good old days. Once set, they can hold that setting for hundreds of thousands of miles. Tight manufacturing tolerances make it possible to physically set the timing without the need for timing devices.
There is a cutout in the plate the Hall Sensors are mounted on that allows one to see the timing mark. I have had excellent results from just physically aligning the cutout with a matching cutout on the cover around it. I would guess that by simply setting the timing this way you will be within a degree or two of the optimum point. With all the articles around about advancing the timing it's pretty obvious that the engine works well over a fairly wide range of timing setpoints. My experience with my three bikes confirms that it's difficult to set the timing wrong. I have yet to use a timing light or anything else and all my bikes run great and get fuel mileage in the mid to upper 40's.
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Thanks guys!
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-200816163635.png)
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Messing around, checked start sw contacts. Found, depending on how I pushed and wiggled it. I have less than desirable 1.8 ohms at best and up to around 12 ohms.
Opened it up and surprised to find its nothing more than a cheesy, sorta exposed pair of leaf (oxidized green) contacts.
Cleaned em up and now a much better solid 0.4 ohms, EVERYTIME.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1472_zpswahhw24p.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1476_zps9b5icjcr.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1477_zpse7lfgpre.jpg)
Mechanic in a can to the rescue! :2thumbup:
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1480_zpsxtkvjkda.jpg)
Also, as RBM suggested I double checked TPS to ensure the health and functionality of both switches in TPS, working at WOT and throttle opening. Both switches reading .5 ohms.
Center lug is the common connection.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1483_zpstojfkso3.jpg)
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Some other little odds and ends, buttoned up.
Replaced broken reflectors.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1490_zpsh6wsvpj1.jpg)
Replaced, the repaired shifter lever
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1493_zpsbnrptomw.jpg)
Replaced all four signals w nicer set.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1488_zpsqvsnl06i.jpg)
Sand blasted and fresh gloss black epoxy on screens.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1497_zpszprmrmik.jpg)
NOS clutch lever going in.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1496_zpslqsdvf1s.jpg)
Fresh lug bolts. (a couple of the originals felt a little funky last time I torqued em)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/IMG_1491_zpsyoqbbc7r.jpg)
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My buddy Davey's wife is back to 100% after having emergency surgery for internal bleeding.
He sent this...getting ready to spray this week.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/20170407_202906_zps1hvyeic3.jpg)
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I made it clear to Davey, Im not looking to win the cover of a magazine.
Davey is not a pro painter. (An elevator mechanic like me, we've been friends for 30 years.)
But he makes up for his lack of formal training/experience, simply due to the fact that he cares.
I have a ton of respect for the guy.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/BMW%20in%20primer%201_zpscbvrzisv.jpg)
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I have a ton of respect for the guy.
He's definitely been studying Alexander Calder.
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He's definitely been studying Alexander Calder.
Not everyone will get that one.
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Nah even I got it and I'm an Ozian ( New word describing a person living in the Antipodes as per Laitch )
Regards Martin.
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. . . I'm an Ozian ( New word describing a person living in the Antipodes as per Laitch )
I'm leaning toward Antipodiatrist for variety.
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Can I call you a Verminian or an ex Flouridian not sure which to use? :hehehe :dunno
Regards a Ozian Antipodiatrist Martin.
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Can I call you a Verminian or an ex Flouridian not sure which to use? :hehehe :dunno
You've concocted some breathtaking evolution of language there, Martin. Let your heart dictate its usage. :2thumbup:
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:2thumbup:
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Ok guys she fired right up. Checked sync is good.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1544_zpsmfnuuyob.jpg)
Set up Gastester and shes at 2.3
However, I slowly increase rpm to 2500 and she drops to 0.8.
Is that right? Seems she should remain closer to 2.3 at ALL rpms.
Also, it melts the hose off pretty quickly at 2500rpm. Ha!
I have a small exhaust leak at muffler. Which could be affecting numbers.
Also, the idle adjuster screw is not hitting its stop. So, I cant get idle under 1300rpm. I can push the adjuster down to the stop w my finger and the rpm drops. But as soon as I release pressure it pops back up and revs to 1300. I slackened off throttle cable and choke cables. Thinking one may be too tight. But to no avail. Any ideas???
The upside...The cooling fan kicks on and off wonderfully.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1545_zpskm30qev0.jpg)
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I have seen clamps on the throttle body manifolds restricting movement of the linkage.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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I have seen clamps on the throttle body manifolds restricting movement of the linkage.
Thanks bud just found the issue. Loosened off TPS. It had it in some sort of bind. Now just need to get it adjusted correctly.
Any idea about the gastester numbers?
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I have no experience with gastester.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Got the switch working well and lubed up the throttle control linkage. No more binding and idle at 1000.
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OK guys, just re-read the BMW manual and as long as Im 2 at idle of 1000k give or take shes good.
Says nothing about testing at increased rpm.
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The test is at idle. Revving the bike with the tester hooked up can possibly damage the tester. The readings at idle as per Haynes is 2% to 2.5 %.
Follow the instructions very carefully allow time for the initial setting up reading. Allow time between small adjustments and allow plenty of time for the machine to purge. I run mine at 2% TMG has run his a little bit leaner I can't remember what. The key to good results with the Gunson is to follow the instructions and patience. I've had mine for at least 18 years it is a delicate instrument, treat it with care, don't drop it or lend it and it will serve you for years
Regards Martin.
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The test is at idle. Revving the bike with the tester hooked up can possibly damage the tester. The readings at idle as per Haynes is 2% to 2.5 %.
Follow the instructions very carefully allow time for the initial setting up reading. Allow time between small adjustments and allow plenty of time for the machine to purge. I run mine at 2% TMG has run his a little bit leaner I can't remember what. The key to good results with the Gunson is to follow the instructions and patience. I've had mine for at least 18 years it is a delicate instrument, treat it with care, don't drop it or lend it and it will serve you for years
Regards Martin.
:2thumbup:
Thanks bud, I just dont know how I got it in my head to check it at idle AND again at 2500. Just dreamed it up I suppose.
And yes revving as sloooowly as my patience would allow, anyways.
I will dial her in proper later this morning. Now that I got her idling at 1000rpm.
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Set the % at idle. As the throttle is opened, the Jetronic/Motronic will inject a leaner mixture to control emissions. The slightly richer than perfect mixture at idle is necessary to get the engine to rev smoothly from idle.
I set mine for the lower end of the specification, but once the weather warms up a bit(the tester doesn't really want to calibrate at ambient temps of 35F) I'm going back to redo it slightly richer. This is because the bike has gotten a bit of hesitation/stumble coming off of idle. It's not really bad, but I might as well get it as close as I can.
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Thanks TMG.
I revisited it this morning and heres where I am...
Up to temp w cooling fan kicking on and off. Idle set at a rock steady 1krpm
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1549_zpscf5igerw.jpg)
Slowly fluctuates twixed 1.9-2.0.
BONUS...the Worlds least suspenseful 30 sec vid ever. LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EW6kIcS9QU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EW6kIcS9QU)
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:2thumbup: Patience has it's own rewards Grasshopper. Softly softly catchee monkey.
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done
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1565_zpsyapgfaba.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1554_zpsmz4vyiob.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1556_zpskmy11xaa.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1568_zpshxorl4zy.jpg)
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It looks amazing, a job superbly well done. :clap: :2thumbup: Now go and ride! :riding: :mm
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Very nice!
Don in Nipomo
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It looks amazing, a job superbly well done. :clap: :2thumbup: Now go and ride! :riding: :mm
Very nice!Don in Nipomo
Thanks guys!
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Sweet looking ride!!!
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Sweet looking ride!!!
Thank you and thanks for sticking w me and the helpful advise given bud.
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Trek cool looking ride you should be proud. There is an easy way to know whether you have the mixture right. With the bike idling at 1000 rpm press the green start button, if the mixture is right the revs will remain the same or rise slightly. If the revs rise a lot or drop the mixture is out.
This is a feature that BMW built into the bike and as long as it is idling at 1000rpm or above the starter will not engage.
Regards Martin.
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You've created a well-illustrated thread that is certain to be useful to others working on their bikes. :2thumbup:
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Thanks for hanging in there w me. You guys really helped to make the Japanese to German, mindset- change over easier.
Planning a trip to down to Kentucky in 3 weeks. Meeting up w a few other BMW and Japanese riders.
Hoping to find a couple nice spots for some decent glamour shots. :euro
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Yup, naked again. Remembered I hadnt installed heat shield under the tank.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1591_zps6biq2qya.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1593_zps1pkdnikd.jpg)
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What type of material is that?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Self adhesive, fiberglass mat w aluminum coating. Just like the stock stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Protection-Fiberglass-Self-Adhesive-Backing/dp/B00ZE3P1ZM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00ZE3P1ZM&pd_rd_r=T31XWAN15Z50RER353F0&pd_rd_w=ftjWB&pd_rd_wg=YtgcG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=A18H1W4ZYJY0366FH227&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop
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Self adhesive, fiberglass mat w aluminum coating. Just like the stock stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Protection-Fiberglass-Self-Adhesive-Backing/dp/B00ZE3P1ZM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00ZE3P1ZM&pd_rd_r=T31XWAN15Z50RER353F0&pd_rd_w=ftjWB&pd_rd_wg=YtgcG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=A18H1W4ZYJY0366FH227&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop (https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Protection-Fiberglass-Self-Adhesive-Backing/dp/B00ZE3P1ZM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00ZE3P1ZM&pd_rd_r=T31XWAN15Z50RER353F0&pd_rd_w=ftjWB&pd_rd_wg=YtgcG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=A18H1W4ZYJY0366FH227&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop)
I used the same stuff where I couldn't 't use the original shielding material, and I doubled up in some places. With the right amount of prep, it works extremely well.
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I just spent the better part of twenty minutes going through this thread... Congrats man... She came out very well.
Are you going to use the lower fairing screen?
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I just spent the better part of twenty minutes going through this thread... Congrats man... She came out very well.
Are you going to use the lower fairing screen?
Thanks a bunch bud. And yes, all screens are installed. Is there a reason that I don't know of as to why I wouldn't?
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None at all. In reply # 274 or 275, I noticed it wasn't there, that's all. I have to think it will save the timing chain cover if a big rock comes up and smacks it.
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None at all. In reply # 274 or 275, I noticed it wasn't there, that's all. I have to think it will save the timing chain cover if a big rock comes up and smacks it.
Ha you made me look back at the pic. It's in there it's just the angle and maybe funny lighting/shadow.
Just makes it hard to see in that pic.
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Ok I made these little bastards easier to get off the tank and seat pins. They dont make installation any easier or harder.
strapped skinny zip ties to them for pull tabs.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1597_zpsokctwu3x.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1600_zpsty2wtqag.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1599_zpsfcm3b64m.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1601_zps1dvatcuc.jpg)
and a close up of the screen on belly pan.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1603_zps6wfha9gk.jpg)
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Smart idea!
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I have a piece of wire with a hook one end and a loop at the other end. It is stuck under a piece of Velcro, and resides under the seat. Your method is more elegant, and I can always loose my wire. :clap:
Regards Martin.
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Ha thanks again guys. Those little clips sure are a nightmare to dig outta there.
An elegant weapon for a more civilized age.
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Now why did it take 20-30 years to have this idea.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Now why did it take 20-30 years to have this idea.
So glad I can give something back to my fellow brick members.
Thank you guys for all your wonderful help
[size=78%] [/size] :2thumbup:
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I stick with the - who needs clips anyway? - method.
Actually I did not even know there were supposed to be some until about six months after I brought the bike, I might get round to adding some one day, but then again maybe not...
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Trying to get the tank out of the rubbers back there is hard enough, so i'm with Filmcamera on this one. But, if you want them clips on it i suppose it is nice to be able to get them of easily...
Verstuurd vanaf mijn HUAWEI CUN-L21 met Tapatalk
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I stick with the - who needs clips anyway? - method.
I was right there w ya. Had this not helped. They would probably be rattling around the storage tray right now. :falldown:
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I stick with the - who needs clips anyway? - method.
It's environmentally conditional. The clips-in state of being makes it more difficult to steal the tank. Clips-off means the tank can be ripped right off its mount leaving you to follow the perp's ever-evaporating trail of fuel.
Not many K-bikes in paradise.
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Luckily there are to my knowledge only two K bikes in Costa Rica so I doubt there is a huge market for stolen fuel tanks!
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The seed has been planted. Now Im gonna start "testing" every K bike tank I see. :yow
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I have the clips, got new shiny ones from Max. I don't remember if I left them on after checking them out.
I do know my grommets and bump stops are well vaselined so no damage or struggle when lifting or setting the tank back in place.
Super easy to get to the PCM, ECU, relay box, the multipoint connectors...and all that other sophisticated stuff.
The nose of the Corbin Rumble keeps the tank secure enough until I perfect backflips.
Don in Nipomo
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Can be expensive to leave the clips off. Hitting a bump can cause the tank to bounce up , the side cover then take the chance to escape. I used to have a mate that used to loose side covers. He wouldn't believe me about the cause so I had him ride back and forth over speed bumps eventually a side cover let go. Some bricks covers are held on by the edge of the tank, some are not check before omitting the clips.
Regards Martin.
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Got an early one so side panels with the dowels in the rear and the spring clips to the frame up front.
Even those can fail. I have a few spare sidepanels for the later models if anyone is in need.
I'll probably put the circlips on tomorrow, got me scared of losing pieces now. :2thumbup:
Don in Nipomo
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I am short so I have a low seat - no side covers.. :bmwsmile
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Good answer!
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I knew one day I would find something good about being short :hehehe
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You had no choice in the matter. Don't look for a reason.
Being vertically challenged has it's advantages... Bet you were always in the front row for class pictures!
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Finally, gonna bundle up today and go for a 25mi shakedown ride round the block today.
Then a bigger ride tomorrow. :bmwsmile
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/Screen%20Shot%202017-04-22%20at%203.14.08%20AM_zps4sp7surq.png)
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Celebrating her first 85 miles. With Cubans. I couldnt be more delighted w her. She rides and runs better than I hoped.
Imagine that, BMW does know something about building an awesome bike.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/bmw%20cubans_zpsw1z2gpkz.jpg)
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:2thumbup:
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Life is good.
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So far the only problem Im having.
Everytime I decide to turn left, the headlight switches to high beam, then the horn honks before the signal starts flashing. :hehehe
True story.
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Everytime I decide to turn left, the headlight switches to high beam, then the horn honks before the signal starts flashing. :hehehe
You're giving people plenty of warning; they only have themselves to blame if they don't get out of the way.
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You're giving people plenty of warning; they only have themselves to blame if they don't get out of the way.
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-200816163635.png)
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Chris Harris on tank C clips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTb0sEmXheA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTb0sEmXheA)
Do not let the title fool you - though that is useful info as well
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The man makes a pretty good point concerning the C clips.
Also, my starter relay stuck several times.
Including once after installing new relay and battery.
Since cleaning up the starter button contacts on controls, it hasnt stuck since.
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Obviously has not lost any hard to replace expensive side covers off a K75s.
Regards Martin.
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Hauled the brick and wife's scooter down to Kentucky last weekend, riding the twisty mountain two lanes.
I kept pretty conservative as I dont have enough experience w the machine yet.
However, I handed the keys to 3 of my more "BMW" experienced buddies.
The old gal had a torture tested afternoon of balls to the wall riding.
Came back to me w a full tank of fuel.
Rave reviews from all three guys. (They are now on the hunt for K bikes, HA)
I couldnt be more delighted and impressed w the bike. :riding:
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/My%20K75%20by%20Tim%20Burke_zpsmfpmge0m.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j449/trek97/BMW/IMG_1640%202_zpspn8tm3jx.jpg)
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Started reading this great post but it seems as if as the Internet gets older the more infuriating it gets.
The pics add so much to rebuilds like this but on page 2 I got impatient with having to click on every 'upgrade your hosting' links.
Just me?
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Started reading this great post but it seems as if as the Internet gets older the more infuriating it gets.
The pics add so much to rebuilds like this but on page 2 I got impatient with having to click on every 'upgrade your hosting' links.
Those icons are the result of image hosting services holding images for ransom until their clients pay increased fees for service. That's why it has been recommended to post images directly to this site using this site's software.
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The man makes a pretty good point concerning the C clips.
Although Harris's assertion seems reasonable, BMW USA by now would have been sued pantless by legions of personal injury attorneys in the USA mounting an intergalactic class action for client relief if immolation had been an outcome from using those clips.
: :2thumbup:
If my bike encounters that much force with me on it, it will obviate the expense to my estate of cremation outlined in my will. The downside for my heirs will be that the K75 was the only thing in my estate. :giggles
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This is a really great thread, especially as I'm working through rebuilding my K. Too bad none of the images show up. :dunno2:
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This is a really great thread, especially as I'm working through rebuilding my K. Too bad none of the images show up. :dunno2:
The photos were helpful. Some members here whose thread photos were blocked by Photobucket have replaced them. Maybe trek97 will go that route someday.
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They are all visible now.
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I had thousands (well at least hundreds) of photos on Photobucket, then they blocked easy access about two years ago.
Checked yesterday and it appears as if they restored most of my library. For free!
I didn't want to linger too long for fear of losing them all again...
Anyone else notice the change?
Don in Nipomo
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Trek97, congratulations on refurbishing your K75C! Beautiful work you did! I really enjoy these types of reports, because they are such a wealth of information. Thank you for all the time and effort to show us how it is done!
Cheers!
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Hey guys so sorry about losing touch.
Thanks so much for all the kind replies. Been busy here w other projects.
The bike has performed flawlessly since finishing her.
Them boys down at the bmw plant really know how to build a bike
Spring cleaning my garage I stumbled across a new windshield I bought a few years back and just forgot about it
Always more fun to spin wrenches than clean.
Here is what I did this afternoon.
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-110519184302.jpeg)
(http://www.dotheton.com/gallery/11494-110519184357.jpeg)
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That is a great looking bike!!!
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Fantastic looking ride, and that "new" screen is very nice.
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Fantastic looking ride, and that "new" screen is very nice.
That is a great looking bike!!!
Thanks so much ya'll. I couldn't be happier w it.
Just in time too. The original is turning yellow.