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Ha ha! No problem. It’s a K100RS though mate. Not a K1100 you’ve done that a couple of times and I just wanted to point it out so we’re not at crossed purposes.
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Incidentally, you don't need a code reader, you can use a test light. Try following the methods described in this post.
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Thanks Laitch, you’re a star for helping me out mate! Glad I chose to join the forum!
It's too early to start the party, Jonathon, but I would like to find lime and coconut frosting on the vanilla cake when it's delivered.   Wait until you meet some folks here who actually own a K1100. Glad won't come close to describing that feeling.  :laughing4-giggles:
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75s -Rear Seal
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 11:36:24 AM »
Nob alert Nob alert :johnny I can’t see any reason why this should be an issue but allegedly it is.
:tinhat2:
Allegedly? To quote Inspector Callahan of the San Francisco Police Department, " Ask yourself one question, 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do you?"


Did you change the output shaft o-ring, too? Anyway, if the seal going to allegedly leak as is, perhaps it will wait until you're psychologically ready instead of right away. The bonus of its leaking is it will sharpen your disassembly technique. That's a win-win.

 icon_cheers





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Hi, thanks for replying. I’m just fitting up the replacement hall sensor now. Yes to the ignition amp question. It’s all correctly seated with paste on an earth strapped location to a clean metal surface. I have continuity checked the earths at all stages of the amp, heat sink and mounting plate but not measured the exact resistance. I’ll do that this evening.

Thanks for the diagnosis data. The diag plug is in the loom still minus the connected abs lead of course. However, sadly, I do not possess a fault reader for these bikes or indeed a bmw multi tester.

I don’t usually have to deal with fuel injection and ecu controlled motorcycles. This only my second k bike. Normally, I’m a classic Honda guy! :D Moving forward, I’ll get properly kitted out but for now, it’s just a multimeter I guess.

I’ll take all your suggestions on board and let you know when I have a little more data to share.

Thanks Laitch, you’re a star for helping me out mate! Glad I chose to join the forum!
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Are you using the Motronic Diagnosis data at this link? There are several No Spark checks and a couple of Hall Sensor checks. They involve BMW's proprietary tester but most tests can be reproduced with a good quality multimeter. It's probably best to ignore involvement with ABS wiring right now. One point about the ingnition amp is that its contact surfaces must be cleaned and then covered with a thin layer of heat shrink paste so they make full contact with each other.  Attached is one of the No Spark resistance tests from the manual.
 
Does your Brick still have functioning diagnostic plug that you have tried to use?

Maybe Scott_ will chime in here with some observations.
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After reading the manual from Laitch (thanks, that’s an awesome resource) I have got a very small output on both the 2 motronic outputs to the ignition amp. Only a fluctuating 0.20v on both during cranking. One is black (sw) on pin 2 of the amp connector and one is black/white (sw/ws) on pin 7 of the amp connector. The manual states that it’s a low voltage but does not say the exact expected parameters.

I am picking up a replacement hall sensor today just in case that’s the problem. I’ll keep you updated.

I should quickly add a side note; this is the 2.1 motronic and as such (I think) has no CO sensor. There is a lot of discussion regarding the Co sensor but there was visibly no sign of one on the bike’s exhaust system nor is there a connector for it on the engine loom. I think I’m right in thinking that the 2.1 doesn’t utilise this and has only the potentiometer. The manual seems to confirm this in a roundabout way but confirmation would be good.

Also, and I’m just shooting from the hip here but the only wire out of the engine loom I haven’t resolved is the brown/white (br/ws) from the diag plug to the deleted abs control unit. Does this perhaps need a resolution? This is the only abs related wire coming from the engine loom.

Thanks again.
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The Motobrick Workshop / K75s -Rear Seal
« Last post by Ian T on Today at 04:33:26 AM »
Hi everyone

Nob alert Nob alert :johnny

I’ve just replaced the rear seal in my engine and like a total nob (see above) I have put it in flush and not with the little .5 mm stick out bit that is prescribed.

Don’t know how it happened but it has.

I can’t see any reason why this should be an issue but allegedly it is.

In your experiences what do you think, don’t really want to take it out and buy another one but will if that is the recommendations.

Couple of pics.

Cheers

Ian


* IMG_4157.jpeg (69.18 kB . 768x576 - viewed 19 times)
* IMG_4158.jpeg (39.84 kB . 768x576 - viewed 19 times)
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Welcome, Jonathan.

Have you been consulting the Motronic 2.1 & 2.2 Training Reference Book available in our Service Bulletins~Brochures section? A diagram from it is attached. According to the diagram, there should be an output signal at pin 12 when cranking.



Thank you very much for the manual! That’s very helpful indeed!
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Welcome, Jonathan.

From what have you been reading that you can't believe and why have you been reading it?  :laughing4-giggles: From what I've read, if there is no Hall Sensor sign input to the Motronic—or the Motronic can't process it—there will be neither fuel pressure nor spark. I believe that. Of course, it's easy for me to believe that because I'm not sweating bullets trying to start a K1100.

Hi, thanks for your reply but I don’t understand what you are saying here. It was either this forum or the another K100 forum that suggested the H2O sensor as a possible culprit. As it’s just one of only two sensors that feeds directly into the Motronic,  I had just hoped to rule that out here. What I read might well be rubbish of-course and that’s exactly why I asked. It stated that a broken sensor could continuously report Hot and stop the startup procedure.

Thank you for your suggestion regarding the Hall Sensor to the ignition amp. I’ll check that asap and report back.

Thanks.


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