K100 CAFE FIGHTER

[Boxermann]

Did you powdercoat your crank case and valve cover?

Would anyone or should anyone powder coat be put on the gas tank to make the paint more durable?

I painted them with Hammerite at first. Then added a layer of Colormatic 2K clear coat recently. I wish I had clear coated the entire engine though, since Hammerite sucks. It chips if you look at it angrily while holding a something sharp... And can't handle gasoline. I spilled some gasoline today and now I have to repaint the entire upper part of the engine with a brush (since I don't want to disassemble everything again). Crap.

Powder coating the tank.. I don't know?


Started the bike today and it ran great. Checked the ignition timing and it seems like I got more or less right straight away. I need to sync the TBs though.

It sounded awesome too I think. I'll post a video soon. If the weather permits I'm going to take it for a test ride during the weekend.

[Boxermann]

[Hank]

Great to see an update, sorry to hear about the paint. Maybe you can try airbrushing the paint where it's damaged for a smooth finish?


Do you mind sharing the model of the ignition key unit that you fit into the frame? Having it small and hidden is great!I'm thinking it's a universal 2-position switch?


Looking forward to seeing all the progress

[Boxermann]

Great to see an update, sorry to hear about the paint. Maybe you can try airbrushing the paint where it's damaged for a smooth finish?

Do you mind sharing the model of the ignition key unit that you fit into the frame? Having it small and hidden is great!I'm thinking it's a universal 2-position switch?

Looking forward to seeing all the progress

It's just under the throttle bodies, so I'm just going to cover things up, spray it with etching primer, then brush on caliper paint and finish of with 2k clear coat.

This key switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282406644853

Not great quality, but it's ok for me since I'm just using it as a backup.


Finally got to take it for a test ride the other day and it was way over my expectations. Engine and gearbox was smooth as silk and handling and brakes were great.

To do before I can call it "finished" (for now):

• Fabricate the seat
• Paint tank and cowl again
• Fabricate a registration plate holder
• Sync the TBs

Also I'm planning to use a solenoid connected to a thermostat switch to pull the choke (or rather 'idle control') lever under a set engine temperature. I'm using a universal trunk release solenoid that pulls 15mm, which should be enough to pull it halfway. I don't see the need to be able to pull it all the way, since I'm not planning to use this bike in cold weather.

[Boxermann]

double post...

[Laitch]

Also I'm planning to use a solenoid connected to a thermostat switch to pull the choke (or rather 'idle control') lever under a set engine temperature. I'm using a universal trunk release solenoid that pulls 15mm, which should be enough to pull it halfway. I don't see the need to be able to pull it all the way . . .

Consider riding the bike for a while before you expend time and energy in that direction. The temperature was 8ºC at my place today. I placed the choke (idle control) at first position then shut it off after I shifted into third. I rode in third for one kilometer and the bike was ready to go. I only use it on cool morning first startups and don't need to use it again the rest of the day.  I might use the control at full setting when the temperature is ≤30ºF but I'll shut it off using the same routine.

Your design might eliminate memory problems effecting performance, i.e., leaving the choke on for miles, but so far, my memory works for the ten seconds or so that this process takes, if I recall correctly. :giggles

[jonas_105]

Was it easy to fit the 3spoke wheels?
arent they wider than the originals?


Great build btw!!  :2thumbup:

[Boxermann]

Consider riding the bike for a while before you expend time and energy in that direction. The temperature was 8ºC at my place today. I placed the choke (idle control) at first position then shut it off after I shifted into third. I rode in third for one kilometer and the bike was ready to go. I only use it on cool morning first startups and don't need to use it again the rest of the day.  I might use the control at full setting when the temperature is ≤30ºF but I'll shut it off using the same routine.

Your design might eliminate memory problems effecting performance, i.e., leaving the choke on for miles, but so far, my memory works for the ten seconds or so that this process takes, if I recall correctly. :giggles

Yeah, you might be right. Thanks for the advice. :2thumbup:

Was it easy to fit the 3spoke wheels?
arent they wider than the originals?


Great build btw!!  :2thumbup:

Thanks!


Yeah, the 3-spoke (K1100) are wider. I don't have a center stand and had to adjust the side stand a little so it doesn't touch the tire when it's up. Of course it also puts the center line a couple of centimeters to the left.

[stomatomoto]

MOAR PICS!

[Boxermann]

Painting done. Quite happy with the result. Black (RAL 9005, Jet black) and three coats of matte clear coat. The belly ban was already black so I just wet sanded the clear coat with 1200 grit and laid on two coats of matte clear.


Also made a bracket for the MT headlight.

[Boxermann]

Rear view with a 160 tire.


After the test ride I quickly saw the need for a rear fender to prevent the engine filling up with gravel and dirt, so I cut and reshaped the old one.

[Boxermann]

My first attempt at making a seat. I'm not 100% satisfied but it'll do for now after I've fixed some details.


I used soundproofing foam as a base, and glued 12mm foam to the back of the skai / faux leather.

[Boxermann]

Almost there now...

[duckytran]

Nicely done! I like the murdered out look.  :2thumbup:

[Boxermann]

Nicely done! I like the murdered out look.  :2thumbup:

Thanks!

[nods]

Yeah that's very cool mate 👍

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

How are the manifold tubes attached to the throttle bodies? If it is by screw clamps, the screws seem well-hidden. How is the manifold/air sensor/air cleaner assembly anchored? The durability of the manifold's epoxied tube joints will interest others here.

It's a good-looking machine. The paint job and your design have merged the intersecting angles nicely. Mounting the tragkorb on it containing your picnic lunch will be a challenge. :giggles

[Boxermann]

How are the manifold tubes attached to the throttle bodies? If it is by screw clamps, the screws seem well-hidden. How is the manifold/air sensor/air cleaner assembly anchored? The durability of the manifold's epoxied tube joints will interest others here.

It's a good-looking machine. The paint job and your design have merged the intersecting angles nicely. Mounting the tragkorb on it containing your picnic lunch will be a challenge. :giggles

Thanks! I'm using OEM one-time clamps. I couldn't find any screw clamps thin enough. MAF is attached to the frame - I think I've posted a picture of the bracket here in the thread somewhere. I couldn't find a hose with the right angle to connect the MAF and the manifold, so I made one out of tape... Multiple small pieces and then covered in glue.

Time will tell about the epoxy.. So far so good at least.

Regarding the picnic lunch.. I'm thinking of making a bag that fits in the hole under the seat for that purpose. 

Yeah that's very cool mate 👍

Thanks!

[duckytran]

I'd love to hear how mean she sounds! :mbird

[cafek1]

You are a legend for getting all this to work!



Now, I'm interested - you said you didn't need the BEP to get the speed sensor output "right" for the motoscope - but instead you went direct from the OEM sensor to the scope. How did that work out?

[Boxermann]

You are a legend for getting all this to work!



Now, I'm interested - you said you didn't need the BEP to get the speed sensor output "right" for the motoscope - but instead you went direct from the OEM sensor to the scope. How did that work out?

Thanks!


I couldn't make it work. Apparently the OEM signal is to weak for the motoscope. I could not make it work properly with the BEP either as the signal was too uneven, so I ended up using the magnet sensor that came with the motoscope pro. I hid it under the rear brake caliper and glued the magnet on the rotor.

[cafek1]

Oh that's a shame. So did you end up using the BEP at all? (Hall sensor --> tacho?)

[Boxermann]

Oh that's a shame. So did you end up using the BEP at all? (Hall sensor --> tacho?)

Nope, no use for it at all.

I got the tacho-signal from the ignition coil if I remember correctly.

[gast]

Very good looking! Where are you planning to place the number plate?

[Boxermann]

Very good looking! Where are you planning to place the number plate?

Thanks!

I put it here: