Author Topic: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS  (Read 151674 times)

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #50 on: November 16, 2016, 12:31:26 PM »
It needs to be replaced.
Thank you for the quick response. That's what I was thinking. What do you think about the fronts?





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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline Laitch

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #51 on: November 16, 2016, 12:52:33 PM »
That's what I was thinking.
Now that makes me want to reconsider.  :hehehe  Really though, from here that disc looks unsalvageable.

As far as the front rotors, you need to know if the thickness of the rotors is within spec.  If it is on both, you could try hand-sanding them with garnet paper then test them. If there's pitting, replace them. The front brakes' importance and their tendency to make noise even in the best conditions—depending on the pad choice and alignment of the planets during installation—would encourage me to replace them, too.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #52 on: November 16, 2016, 01:06:19 PM »
Now that makes me want to reconsider.  :hehehe

Seriously! Haha! I was looking at brakes and the only disks I could find are made by EBC and cost $250 a pop...yikes! Are there any available for less? I understand the importance of good working brakes but at every turn I'm wondering what the total price tag is going to be to get this brick flying again. At this point I know that it's going to cost a lot more to restore than it's resale value but so far I'm not discouraged. I'll get it up and running properly before I invest much into the cosmetics and if I decide to start customizing it I'll reevaluate my budget.

I ordered the fuel cap rebuild kit and it should be here in 2-4 weeks. MaxBMW has to have it shipped from Germany[emoji19]


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline duckytran

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #53 on: November 16, 2016, 02:37:38 PM »
Contact Mark from the link below. He has a K100 parts bike and will sell you anything that he doesn't need. I've bought a couple parts from him already. Good luck with the project!

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.0.html

  • Austin, Texas
  • 1993 K75, 1981 R65

Offline Laitch

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #54 on: November 16, 2016, 02:47:43 PM »
I was looking at brakes and the only disks I could find are made by EBC and cost $250 a pop...yikes! Are there any available for less?
Of course there are. Those who are willing to learn how to do an effective Web search will have seemingly endless resources for information and goods. It's a lot easier than rebuilding the brake calipers—something which you also may need to do. :giggles

Good used parts are constantly being salvaged. Finding either used or new parts takes the patience and endurance of a still hunter. You should have several parts salvagers and new part sources bookmarked, and be searching regularly with a willingness to buy when you find. Hesitation doesn't work.

As far as dealers go a list might have this one and undoubtedly this other guy, this guy, too, here's a good one, this one might come in handy, and this one who isn't giving anything away, that's for sure. There are others like Motobins and Motorworks in the UK that have both new and used. There are lots of others out there.

I saw one of those in that list has a rear rotor for $95.00 with a thickness of .165. How long that will last depends on whether you're braking in Topeka or Telluride.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #55 on: November 16, 2016, 07:12:55 PM »
Contact Mark from the link below. He has a K100 parts bike and will sell you anything that he doesn't need. I've bought a couple parts from him already. Good luck with the project!

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.0.html
Thank you! That link takes me to the main Motobrick homepage but I'll search the classifieds for Marks post.

Of course there are. Those who are willing to learn how to do an effective Web search will have seemingly endless resources for information and goods. It's a lot easier than rebuilding the brake calipers—something which you also may need to do. :giggles

Good used parts are constantly being salvaged. Finding either used or new parts takes the patience and endurance of a still hunter. You should have several parts salvagers and new part sources bookmarked, and be searching regularly with a willingness to buy when you find. Hesitation doesn't work.

As far as dealers go a list might have this one and undoubtedly this other guy, this guy, too, here's a good one, this one might come in handy, and this one who isn't giving anything away, that's for sure. There are others like Motobins and Motorworks in the UK that have both new and used. There are lots of others out there.

I saw one of those in that list has a rear rotor for $95.00 with a thickness of .165. How long that will last depends on whether you're braking in Topeka or Telluride.

My web searching skills must be lacking because I could only find those EBCs I mentioned. I'm sure they'll improve as I'll probably end up searching for every single part of this bike lol. Thank you for those links! I'll begin the hunt by learning what the spec width is and finding the one that's closest to it. $95 is palatable but I'll be braking in an environment closer to Telluride than Topeka.

In other news, my Clymer manual arrived today! Now I can begin the task of removing the tank. Woohoo!


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline duckytran

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #56 on: November 17, 2016, 10:12:59 AM »
Thank you! That link takes me to the main Motobrick homepage but I'll search the classifieds for Marks post.

Mark doesn't have parts listed in the classified section. He has a project going with the link below. You can PM him with your parts inquiries.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.msg67243.html#msg67243

  • Austin, Texas
  • 1993 K75, 1981 R65

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #57 on: November 17, 2016, 11:11:52 AM »
eBay is my friend for cheap used parts.   Every morning I do a couple quick searches under "K75", "K100" and "K1100" with sorts for "Newly Listed". 

Takes about 10 minutes, and I don't miss any good deals on something I may need.  I have found things like a complete engine, trans and final drive for $75, Hall Sensors on the plate for $25, a starter for $10, a pair of brake rotors for $50, and a source for three sets of brake pads for $18.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #58 on: November 17, 2016, 11:39:00 AM »
Mark doesn't have parts listed in the classified section. He has a project going with the link below. You can PM him with your parts inquiries.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8675.msg67243.html#msg67243
Thanks for that. I'm subscribed to his thread now so if I need anything else I'll ask him.

eBay is my friend for cheap used parts.   Every morning I do a couple quick searches under "K75", "K100" and "K1100" with sorts for "Newly Listed". 

Takes about 10 minutes, and I don't miss any good deals on something I may need.  I have found things like a complete engine, trans and final drive for $75, Hall Sensors on the plate for $25, a starter for $10, a pair of brake rotors for $50, and a source for three sets of brake pads for $18.

Thank you for the advice! That's exactly what I just did after Laitch so kindly gave me a list of sellers to look at. I ended up finding a brand new EBC pro-Lite MD661 for $165 plus $20 shipping. I figure that I might as well bite the bullet and start my riding days off with a fresh set of stoppers.


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline Vespa no more

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #59 on: November 17, 2016, 07:52:24 PM »
Some suggestions if I may:

Ride a smaller bike to get your eye in before you get riding on this. A Suzuki SV650 is a cheap and well sorted bike (too small for me) which you've have a lot of fun on and the occasional fright. Given the condition of this bike (very salvageable and an excellent gift) it may be some time before it is ready for registration. They are heavy and somewhat hard to move around (if have a sloping driveway I have to do a 180 degree turn in ... carefully).

Not sure how mechanical you are. Be systematic and organised. My best friends with this stuff is a small fishing tackle / fly box and little paper notes to enable you to know what is the next item to deal with, mobile phone camera, resealable lunchbags with notes. There are a lot of "allen bolts" and torque settings. eg: 15pc-1-2-034-Drive-allen-Hex-key-bit-socket-set-metric-CR-V-steel-4-to12mm on ebay and a torque wrench is recommended. A set of metric ring spanners (my cheaper ones are still going fine after 15 years. Containers (eg bottle of large milk bottles or Kitty litter trays) for all the fluids. Go through the manual - there are recommendations for what you need. I have a computer in my garage that I keep an ongoing list of things I have done and what needs doing.

Don't adjust anything ... yet. The bike was probably going when it stopped. Looks mechanically cared for. Check youtube for cleaning fuel injectors. Sent my first lot (K100) in to the shop ($120) Did the second lot (K1100 in approx 40mins.

Be very careful when you don't finish one task, have to wait for parts, and then start another job. If your garage is a "multi-function centre" like mine... things go wandering. Given the price of some of these parts you don't want to lose them.

Was impressed with the condition of the tank. Sure the fuel will stink. But thankfully the hoses seemed good (proper fuel used). Your oil filter too suggests that previous owner either took it to the shop or looked after it (present patina excused).

These are well built bikes - the birkenstock sandal of the motorcycle world (form debatable, function and engineering mostly very strong). Once all the fluids and perishables are sorted it will go. And that rust and corrosion... it'll buff out.

I don't remember the mileage of your bike.

Enjoy

Guy
  • Wollongong NSW AUSTRALIA
  • K100RT 1984, K1100RT 1993, Vespa VNB125 1963 :)

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #60 on: November 17, 2016, 09:44:07 PM »
Thank you for the suggestions, Vespa. You certainly may, and I do appreciate them. Now that I have my Clymer manual I feel like I can do anything necessary. I'm very mechanical I just lack experience with working on vehicles. I'm so excited to be working on this bike that it's all I think about these days.

Here's my current progress:

It's not much but I don't get a whole lot of time every day to work on it. Now that I can see so much of the frame, and I'll be removing the tank, I'm tempted to remove it and have it repainted. What do y'all think?

I started cleaning the front brake disks and they're looking good. Thanks again, Laitch, for the recommendations! I think there may have been a leak on one of the brake lines by the caliper. I'm going to try to find some braided stainless steel lines to replace them with.


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline billday

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #61 on: November 17, 2016, 10:06:46 PM »
Cover the opening on top of your fuel tank. Painter's masking tape will do.
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline Vespa no more

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #62 on: November 17, 2016, 10:08:50 PM »
The frames are know for getting surface rust... someone alluded to the micron thick paint as the problem. If you look at some of the project bikes that have been finished, a painted frame looks wonderful.

Anyone else note the comment: "I'm so excited to be working on this bike that it's all I think about these days." Sound familiar? Ah yes.... The Fever. Another widow to the workshop.

Have you got brake pressure on the front brake lever? If you need to service the master cylinder, hopefully the piston rubbers are good and you can re-use it. (there is a small grub screw holding it in... do your research re: piston flying out of the bore ...finger needed). Of course this hasn't happened to me yet. I neglected to learn about the grub screw and was on the internet looking to replace the whole MC. Saved!

You said "It's not much". BS. Wait until it's all sorted and you really get going. Plenty of power and speed. I find it very amusing racing past some cars on the freeway near me on a "Historic Vehicle". Am yet to get into the very high revs...(fine) tuning work needed.

Keep the up dates coming

Guy

  • Wollongong NSW AUSTRALIA
  • K100RT 1984, K1100RT 1993, Vespa VNB125 1963 :)

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #63 on: November 17, 2016, 10:22:19 PM »
Cover the opening on top of your fuel tank. Painter's masking tape will do.
I only uncovered it for the pic :)


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline Elipten

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #64 on: November 17, 2016, 10:29:48 PM »
I would get it running first, before spending money on cosmetics.


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  • San Antonio, TX
  • 1990 K75RT

Offline The Dude

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #65 on: November 18, 2016, 01:29:13 AM »
Is that rust,iron oxide on that disc?
Mine's worn out,old as, been through hell but never "rusted".I assumed it was stainless steel!
The obvious answer is the one you've assumed but,well,,,, I'd try and reclaim it using care and a bit of emery cloth to see if there are pits under that crud...Would shag out pads.Chances are a Saftey inspecter would fail it,of course but what I'd be concerned with is:Will it crack up on hard use?will it stop the back end from overtaking the front end in the "oh shit"moment?(down hill gravel)Will it sieze up unexpectedly...?I guess funny money would cure those worries,they cost a lot(to me)...good luck.
Eff it,just spotted page three!was on page two...You need new discs!
  • Auckland, New Zealand
  • K75s
Current.
TR6R 1973 from new.
Moto guzzi 850 III .1983 from,almost, new.
K75S 1986 from new.vin-0103141
On my second millionth km.give or take a hundred k Kay's.
"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there."
All the best!

Offline Vespa no more

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #66 on: November 18, 2016, 02:19:49 AM »
To appease my curiosity. Where has this bike been stored? I am thinking near the coast... maybe a few winds to transport salty air or salty rain. The internals seem fine, the externals ... well "over 70s tinderesque"...seen better days

S'pose you could sand the discs clean by putting some wet and dry between the pads and the disc and rotating the wheel and applying pressure. Then when clean, cross hatch the disc like you do to a cylinder bore.

When I get squealing disc brakes (MTB, car, MC) I get a sheet of fine grit wet and dry and lay it over a sheet of reinforced glass (the flattest surface in the shed) and sand the crud off the pad surface as well as cross hatching the disc. Finish off with brake cleaner. It works.

One time, I couldn't get replacement rotors for a front wheel drive in time. There was a pronounced lip on the edge of the rotor. So I jacked up the car, put it in first and got the angle grinder and took the lip off ... easily :) (Laitch imogee HERE). Did the job. Disc replaced within a week or so. (No big mountains near me). Please don't think I'm flippant when it comes to brakes - firm believer in being able to stop before you go.

Anonymous
  • Wollongong NSW AUSTRALIA
  • K100RT 1984, K1100RT 1993, Vespa VNB125 1963 :)

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #67 on: November 18, 2016, 09:40:32 AM »
I would get it running first, before spending money on cosmetics.

That was my original plan so maybe I'll just stick to it.

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Have you got brake pressure on the front brake lever? If you need to service the master cylinder, hopefully the piston rubbers are good and you can re-use it. (there is a small grub screw holding it in... do your research re: piston flying out of the bore ...finger needed). Of course this hasn't happened to me yet. I neglected to learn about the grub screw and was on the internet looking to replace the whole MC. Saved!

You said "It's not much". BS. Wait until it's all sorted and you really get going. Plenty of power and speed. I find it very amusing racing past some cars on the freeway near me on a "Historic Vehicle". Am yet to get into the very high revs...(fine) tuning work needed.

Keep the up dates coming

Guy
Thanks for letting me know about the grub screw. There is ZERO pressure on the front brake lever. I believe the fluid is empty, possibly due to the PO starting a brake job and never finishing. I assume this because the front right caliper is loose, as if he started removing it and never finished.

I was referring to my progress so far when I said "it's not much" :D I know this bike will have all the power and speed I'll ever need.

Is that rust,iron oxide on that disc?
Mine's worn out,old as, been through hell but never "rusted".I assumed it was stainless steel!
The obvious answer is the one you've assumed but,well,,,, I'd try and reclaim it using care and a bit of emery cloth to see if there are pits under that crud...Would shag out pads.Chances are a Saftey inspecter would fail it,of course but what I'd be concerned with is:Will it crack up on hard use?will it stop the back end from overtaking the front end in the "oh shit"moment?(down hill gravel)Will it sieze up unexpectedly...?I guess funny money would cure those worries,they cost a lot(to me)...good luck.
Eff it,just spotted page three!was on page two...You need new discs!

I was able to spend a little time cleaning up the front disks yesterday and there aren't any pits on them. They actually cleaned up pretty nicely IMO.

To appease my curiosity. Where has this bike been stored? I am thinking near the coast... maybe a few winds to transport salty air or salty rain. The internals seem fine, the externals ... well "over 70s tinderesque"...seen better days

S'pose you could sand the discs clean by putting some wet and dry between the pads and the disc and rotating the wheel and applying pressure. Then when clean, cross hatch the disc like you do to a cylinder bore.

When I get squealing disc brakes (MTB, car, MC) I get a sheet of fine grit wet and dry and lay it over a sheet of reinforced glass (the flattest surface in the shed) and sand the crud off the pad surface as well as cross hatching the disc. Finish off with brake cleaner. It works.

One time, I couldn't get replacement rotors for a front wheel drive in time. There was a pronounced lip on the edge of the rotor. So I jacked up the car, put it in first and got the angle grinder and took the lip off ... easily :) (Laitch imogee HERE). Did the job. Disc replaced within a week or so. (No big mountains near me). Please don't think I'm flippant when it comes to brakes - firm believer in being able to stop before you go.

Anonymous

You're absolutely correct...near the coast. I live a mile from the beach near Monterey, CA and the previous owner lived even closer to the water.

I'm going to remove the rotors so I can properly clean the inside surface and once I get them clean I'll post some pics so I can get yall's opinion.

Thanks everyone for your advice!


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

Offline Laitch

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #68 on: November 18, 2016, 10:34:13 AM »
I was able to spend a little time cleaning up the front disks yesterday and there aren't any pits on them. They actually cleaned up pretty nicely IMO.
Are their thickness measurements within specification?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline Vespa no more

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #69 on: November 18, 2016, 05:40:00 PM »
If the bike is still near the coast, Martin and I (living in Aust) will vouch for a product INOX.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INOX-MX3-Anti-corrosion-Anti-Moisture-Lubricant-300g-Spray-/221885503238?hash=item33a9681706:g:6vEAAOSwymxVP4b4

It is basically a marine version of WD-40. It  leaves a light oil but is good for stopping further surface rust. WD will dry out (good for bicycle chains)

Stepping up another level, there are the rust converters etc but also something the local hardware sells:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121954393855?lpid=107&chn=ps.

It might do in the interim until the bike is again disassembled and repainted.

See the exemplary father and son project on this forum for ideas. Makes me think of the first day back at school: "What did you do in the holidays?" Hung out at the mall. What about you? ... Rebuilt and repainted a 750cc motorbike with Dad?
With an attention span like that, I'm wondering if the boy's on the spectrum.

Laitch: how are you html-ing links? I feel like a luddite pasting the whole URL in. (ref: some of your earlier and copious posts - here and elsewhere)

Regards


Guy

  • Wollongong NSW AUSTRALIA
  • K100RT 1984, K1100RT 1993, Vespa VNB125 1963 :)

Offline Laitch

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #70 on: November 18, 2016, 05:45:31 PM »
I thought you liked ludditism,  Guy—that you lived for it, in fact.  :hehehe

  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline Filmcamera

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #71 on: November 18, 2016, 05:51:47 PM »
Quote
Laitch: how are you html-ing links? I feel like a luddite pasting the whole URL in.

Ah so it isn't just me...

I kinda know how to write HTML and yet everything I have tried doesn't work...

Oh wise Laitch - won't you share your wisdom with us, pretty please Master?  :clap:  :yes
  • San Jose, Costa Rica
  • 1991 K100RS 16v ABS1, 2018 Triumph Street Triple RS 765
Poserbricker

Offline Vespa no more

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #72 on: November 18, 2016, 05:56:26 PM »
Thanks Laitch.

I'm not proud - give me low tech over high tech... seems to last longer and possess a certain patina and sangfroid

Mind you, love a cheap gadget from China

Now about the html caper...
  • Wollongong NSW AUSTRALIA
  • K100RT 1984, K1100RT 1993, Vespa VNB125 1963 :)

Offline Laitch

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #73 on: November 18, 2016, 06:50:24 PM »
Oh wise Laitch - won't you share your wisdom with us, pretty please Master?  :clap:  :yes
Sycophancy. It's got a certain charm.

I found how to do it on this site's help page, I think. Maybe it was part of a dream visitation. I just sent Guy a pm describing the process. It was so well written and beautifully composed I doubt if I can duplicate it and be satisfied.

If it works, maybe Guy will share it.

I almost certain he'll respond well to fawning. :giggles
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline MaraudeRS

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Re: The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS
« Reply #74 on: November 19, 2016, 10:46:07 AM »
You guys are cracking me up! I've done the HTML link "trick" before but can't remember how. Maybe Vespa will enlighten us all once he gets it down.

Are their thickness measurements within specification?
Yes. One of the disks measures .187" and the other .191". Do they need to be exactly the same? I'm going to check the pads and replace them if necessary. I removed the rear wheel, rotor, and pads yesterday. The pads are shot. One of them almost completely gone. I know there's a brake pad thread so I'll check it to see what the cool kids are using ;)


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  • Monterey, CA
  • 1992 K100RS

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