Author Topic: 87 K75C, Bone Stock and DONE.  (Read 63969 times)

Offline Chaos

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #25 on: October 04, 2016, 10:10:42 PM »
C and T
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
2012 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline Laitch

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #26 on: October 04, 2016, 11:43:52 PM »
OK guys I got a question.

Reffiting the drive shaft.  I worked it around and got splines lined up...and pushed it in by hand until it sorta popped into place.  It slide in nice and smooth and i gave it a couple more pushes just to be sure it was home. 

Is this as far in as it should go?  Please see pic.  this is how I left it when reassembled.



The rear drive mating surface lacks two locating dowels that are positioned diagonally from each other. These are designed to strengthen and secure alignment with the swing arm. They could be seen in one of the previous photos. Were they dropped during reassembly? There should also be two dowels performing a similar function mating the transmission to the clutch housing.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75T 68,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,296.msg53303.html#msg53303

Offline Martin

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2016, 03:11:05 AM »
Some  lubricants will break down the plastic coating inside the cable. If you want to lubricate them, get a product called TriFlow Teflon based it is designed for bicycle cables and works well. Available at bicycle shop. I have been using it for about 30 years great stuff.
Regards Martin
  • North Lakes Queensland Australia
  • 1992 K75s Hybrid, Lefaux, Vespa V twin.

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #28 on: October 05, 2016, 05:11:15 AM »
The rear drive mating surface lacks two locating dowels that are positioned diagonally from each other. These are designed to strengthen and secure alignment with the swing arm. They could be seen in one of the previous photos. Were they dropped during reassembly? There should also be two dowels performing a similar function mating the transmission to the clutch housing.

Got em in there bud, thanks.  Just like the pic you posted above, they remained tight in the final drive, not in the swinger.

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #29 on: October 05, 2016, 05:20:36 AM »
C and T

thanks Chaos,  yep Mine seems to have the headlight, windscreen, handlebars and seat of the "T".  But lacking driving lamps and tragkorbs.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline Motorhobo

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2016, 08:09:41 AM »
OK guys I got a question.

Reffiting the drive shaft.  I worked it around and got splines lined up...and pushed it in by hand until it sorta popped into place.  It slide in nice and smooth and i gave it a couple more pushes just to be sure it was home. 

I pulled it pretty hard w greasy fingers and it wouldnt come out easily.

Is this as far in as it should go?  Please see pic.  this is how I left it when reassembled.




It's kind of hard to tell from that pic, but my experience is that the swing arm needs to be supported at approximately operating angle when removing or installing the driveshaft. Looks like you're working with it bottomed out, with the rear end hanging down as far as it will go. First, there's a big rubber boot at the front end of the swingarm that you want to protect. Second, in my experience the driveshaft won't seat properly at that angle. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure didn't for me.

What I do is this: support the swingarm from the rear so it's at operating angle, then tap the driveshaft in with a wood block until you know it's seated. How do you know it's seated? There's about 5/8 inch play between the position where it first makes contact and the position where it's fully seated. You can push it in there and it will seem to catch but if you wiggle it around or put a crescent wrench on the exposed end of the DS and pry a little against the end of the swingarm (with rags places appropriately to protect the surfaces), it will drop right out. That means it's not seated. It should be seated such that you need to pry with considerable force to get it out again.

It I may say something about the spline greasing -- looks like slathered it on there. With good moly paste, it's not about the quantity but about the application. Most of the stuff on those splines is going to get slung off to interior walls of the final drive as soon as you take your first ride, which just means more work for you next time you do the spline lube because you're going to have to take the time to wipe and clean all that gunk out of there.

So with the final drive it's kind of just wasted material and time. Good moly paste kind of binds with the surface of the metal to provide a thin layer of protection -- that's what the moly powder in the paste is for. With the transmission splines you do not want to slather like that because when it slings off it will get on the clutch disk and grease the friction surface which will affect the operation of the clutch.

I think there are videos and articles on how to properly lube splines -- I use a toothbrush, mush a small quantity of paste on the mating surfaces of the splines only and wipe off the rest.

That's a great brick you have there -- I like the way you stripped all the paint off the forks...looks nice, never seen that done before, most people myself included just repaint them with some satin black rattle can stuff from Home Depot.

I'm sure if I said anything wrong about the driveshaft someone else will correct me...

Good luck!
1994/1995 K75 ABS Frankenbike: original engine 130k miles, frame from Gary Weaver (RIP), 173k miles -- Current Odometer: 184k miles
1994 K75 since 2013, 76,000 mi (11k mine) w/California Sidecar Friendship II Sidecar & Black Lab 'Miss B'

Past: 1974 Honda 550/4 (first bike), 1994 K75 (sold), 1995 K75 ABS (parts bike), Sidecar Dog & Best Bud 'Bo' - RIP

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2016, 01:31:34 PM »
Thanks for the awesome write up bud. 

it's hard to tell from the angle of that pic in particular.  But you can kinda see the red jack stand under it supporting the swing level.  The 5/8 inch you speak of is pretty much what I had.  From first resistance then it popped on in the 5/8" to bottom.  Sorry if I wasn't clear.

And hopefully no trouble w grease on the clutch.

Here's a better pic showing the jack stand I was using to support.

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2016, 01:39:23 PM »
But I may go ahead and pull it back off.  Clean the excess grease out, just to be sure double check on fitment.  I believe it's fully seated after looking at pics of others.  Seeing how much DS is sticking out.
It's only the 4 bolts and shock so no big deal right now.  It would stink if the tire was installed and had the thing off the jack.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #33 on: October 05, 2016, 08:39:36 PM »
Ok guys, need some help here.

So far Ive PM'd both Timtyler and Scott_ to request this thread be moved to the appropriate "projects" section.

So far neither have responded or acted.  I certainly understand guys got lives to live.  But a response would be nice.

Can someone please give me the name of whos in charge of this site?  Or who can get things done.

Thanks

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline D.Bachtel

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #34 on: October 05, 2016, 09:07:00 PM »
Tim Tyler went Suzuki last I heard . Johhny is out there somewhere. He was sort of in charge of Donkeys, Gerbils and odd vernaculars.
I don't think anyone is in charge...
Carry on with what you have, we will follow.

Don in Nipomo
  • Nipomo
  • BSA, Zundapp, Husqvarna, Greeves, Triumph...and a 1987 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #35 on: October 05, 2016, 09:51:50 PM »
You can get things done, trek. Start a Projects thread. Transfer as many photos as you want into it. Better yet, just make a post here directing readers to the new thread and carry on over there. Simple.

Tim Tyler went Suzuki last I heard . Johhny is out there somewhere. He was sort of in charge of Donkeys, Gerbils and odd vernaculars.
I don't think anyone is in charge...
Carry on with what you have, we will follow.

Don in Nipomo

Thanks for being helpful guys, you all have been awesome!  and that just sucks you got no one you can count on for "forum" help in here. 
I guess I got spoiled over at Dotheton.com.  Tim and the guys running that site are awesome. 
Anyways guess I have learned my lesson.
I will start a new thread in projects as you have suggested.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline D.Bachtel

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #36 on: October 05, 2016, 10:05:22 PM »
You is your best moderator... in my best Johnny speak.
We is all adultish here. It's a self policing affair.

Don in Nipomo
  • Nipomo
  • BSA, Zundapp, Husqvarna, Greeves, Triumph...and a 1987 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #37 on: October 05, 2016, 11:04:53 PM »
.
  • Illinois
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Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #38 on: October 06, 2016, 04:53:22 AM »
 So, I will stop second guessing myself and clean up the grease overage.

Upon the re-opening I found I did have the driveshaft full seated.  Approx 3/8" extending out from the swinger.



end of driveshaft.







U joint end of drive shaft...





Best pic I could get down inside the swinger.  sucks I know.  But I could see it was pretty clean down there.



final drive...





drive shaft just starting to mesh...



drive shaft hitting resistance...



shaft fully seated.  aprrox 3/8 same as before.  Thanks goodness.



Things lined up w mating dowels installed.



anti-seize on bolts..



torqued to spec 40nm.  would be nice if he BMW workshop manual had included torque specs for both lubed and dry fit bolts.  Not gonna mess w hunting the info on all the sizes for lubed torque.  So 40 may be a bit tight for lubed bolts.

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #39 on: October 06, 2016, 05:07:43 AM »
Great documentation, guess that's what a 28k final drive should look like.

Don in Nipomo

Thanks bud,  Even though Ive never seen the final drive in a bmw before.  I thought it looked to be in pretty decent shape.
But, now knowing its properly seated.  Does ease my mind.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #40 on: October 06, 2016, 05:14:17 AM »
Most important thing here is to learn how to search/use the site :bmwsmile.  When I say,  "welcome to the asylum," it is not a jest.  Funny thing--lots of us have lives.  Primarily we come here to share the love of a K (sometimes a harsh mistress).  At these times,  we sometimes seek support.  It is not always readily available OR dispensed with celerity.  Some know much, while others only have lessons from the school of hard knocks.  Our love of motorcycles makes us all wannabe mechanics.  Since we operate 30 yr old bikes, we all have to work on them :bmwsmile.  This time of year lots of people  :riding:.  On a lighter note...

Noted, and thanks for the reply.  and the video!!!   :clap:
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New member, New to me 87 K75c
« Reply #41 on: October 06, 2016, 05:20:34 AM »
It's kind of hard to tell from that pic, but my experience is that the swing arm needs to be supported at approximately operating angle when removing or installing the driveshaft. Looks like you're working with it bottomed out, with the rear end hanging down as far as it will go. First, there's a big rubber boot at the front end of the swingarm that you want to protect. Second, in my experience the driveshaft won't seat properly at that angle. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sure didn't for me.

What I do is this: support the swingarm from the rear so it's at operating angle, then tap the driveshaft in with a wood block until you know it's seated. How do you know it's seated? There's about 5/8 inch play between the position where it first makes contact and the position where it's fully seated. You can push it in there and it will seem to catch but if you wiggle it around or put a crescent wrench on the exposed end of the DS and pry a little against the end of the swingarm (with rags places appropriately to protect the surfaces), it will drop right out. That means it's not seated. It should be seated such that you need to pry with considerable force to get it out again.

It I may say something about the spline greasing -- looks like slathered it on there. With good moly paste, it's not about the quantity but about the application. Most of the stuff on those splines is going to get slung off to interior walls of the final drive as soon as you take your first ride, which just means more work for you next time you do the spline lube because you're going to have to take the time to wipe and clean all that gunk out of there.

So with the final drive it's kind of just wasted material and time. Good moly paste kind of binds with the surface of the metal to provide a thin layer of protection -- that's what the moly powder in the paste is for. With the transmission splines you do not want to slather like that because when it slings off it will get on the clutch disk and grease the friction surface which will affect the operation of the clutch.

I think there are videos and articles on how to properly lube splines -- I use a toothbrush, mush a small quantity of paste on the mating surfaces of the splines only and wipe off the rest.

That's a great brick you have there -- I like the way you stripped all the paint off the forks...looks nice, never seen that done before, most people myself included just repaint them with some satin black rattle can stuff from Home Depot.

I'm sure if I said anything wrong about the driveshaft someone else will correct me...

Good luck!

Thanks Motorhobo for helping me keep on the straight and narrow.  and for the encouragement to get r done properly.
Its all about the details aint it?  And yes, I used about 1/3 the grease I had before.   :2thumbup:
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #42 on: October 06, 2016, 05:35:30 AM »
Got my original heat shield and ebay handlebars bead blasted and ready.



I was hoping to have em powder coated by a buddy down in 'Bama.  But he's busy w the Barber Festival in Birmingham.  And wouldnt be able to get to them for another week or more.  So plan "B" epoxy them myself on the patio. 

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline stokester

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #43 on: October 06, 2016, 06:25:27 AM »
With everything apart it may be a good time to remove and clean the starter.

The load shed relay is grounded through it and it gets pretty dirty from brush dust over the years which can cause some starter issues.  Check IBMWR K-bike tech articles for examples.
  • Yorktown, Virginia
  • '94 K75S - '93 K75S - '91 R100RT - '78 R100S

Offline trek97

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #44 on: October 06, 2016, 06:42:45 AM »
With everything apart it may be a good time to remove and clean the starter.

The load shed relay is grounded through it and it gets pretty dirty from brush dust over the years which can cause some starter issues.  Check IBMWR K-bike tech articles for examples.

Wow thanks,  Looks like some pretty nice write up there.  I got that page bookmarked.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #45 on: October 06, 2016, 04:13:08 PM »
The bad news...cracked a tooth and had to go to dentist to get a temp crown.  Half my face is still numb.

the good news...got home in time to epoxy bars and shield.

And now a nap.



  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline stokester

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Re: trek97, New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #46 on: October 06, 2016, 10:20:38 PM »
Wow thanks,  Looks like some pretty nice write up there.  I got that page bookmarked.
One of the documents mentions Rick Jones.  He runs Motorrad Elektrik http://motoelekt.com a supplier of electrical components for BMW bikes, mostly airheads.  He's a regular at the Gathering of the Clans airhead rally and a great guy that I've discussed BMW bike electrics.  I've upgraded the ignition on my airheads, he's rebuilt my Bosch starter and although not all-inclusive he has some K-bike parts.

Between him and Beemer Boneyard , with some help from Bob's and Max BMW, I've managed to keep my Beemers fun and reliable transportation.
  • Yorktown, Virginia
  • '94 K75S - '93 K75S - '91 R100RT - '78 R100S

Offline trek97

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New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #47 on: October 06, 2016, 10:54:07 PM »
One of the documents mentions Rick Jones.  He runs Motorrad Elektrik http://motoelekt.com a supplier of electrical components for BMW bikes, mostly airheads.  He's a regular at the Gathering of the Clans airhead rally and a great guy that I've discussed BMW bike electrics.  I've upgraded the ignition on my airheads, he's rebuilt my Bosch starter and although not all-inclusive he has some K-bike parts.

Between him and Beemer Boneyard , with some help from Bob's and Max BMW, I've managed to keep my Beemers fun and reliable transportation.

Thanks for the info.  Adding those to my growing list of resources.
  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #48 on: October 09, 2016, 08:40:02 AM »
Work getting done.

Bent bars replaced





fresh brake fluid







front end cleaned and buttoned up



presently working towards fixing a leak here...so far adjusted clutch properly to apply even spring pressure to the boot.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9075.0.html



  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

Offline trek97

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Re: New to me 87 K75C/T
« Reply #49 on: October 09, 2016, 07:35:45 PM »
Went for round 2 this afternoon. 

A BUNCH of scrubbing, Filled the final drive w 90wt, hit the drum w 220 grit, un-wrapped the cellophane from the brakes...

Shes bolted up and back on the ground.







Cant forget to toss the seat on her and adjust the handlebars. 

Next should be more engine scrubbing UGH!, coolant, engine and gear box oil, fresh spark plugs, air filter and repair broke turn signal.

  • Illinois
  • 87 K75C

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