How to "rekey" K bike locks

[alcorelli]

I freed the helmet lock up with penetrant.

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[Laitch]

I've changed many lids, cylinders and lock mechanisms on those newer cases, most times without keys.

I freed the helmet lock up with penetrant.

:2thumbup: Looks like your ingenuity will solve this.

[Jan E-28]

One of my bikes has a master key that work in all the locks everywhere on the bike. And one key that only fit ignition and helmet lock. And other key for gas tank and all compartments/top case.

My other bike don't have a master key, only 2 different keys.
Is it somehow possible to make a master key from a blank just by looking on this 2 different keys?

Or only possible by tedious work removing all the tumblers and crafting a master key out of that? I don't want to do the grind of the wafers on one of the existing keys to make it in to a master.

[Filmcamera]

You do not grind the keys rather the locks.  It is a little tedious but I started with a different ignition, fuel cap and three different keys for tragkorbs and top box and in about two hours I had made all the locks work with the ignition key.  IMO it is worth the effort.

[Jan E-28]

Maybe my last sentence could be misinterpreted. I meant that I don't want to grind of wafers in the tumblers so one of the existing working keys becomes a master.

I do know how to do what is described in the first post to make on existing key work on all locks by grinding on the existing wafers in the tumblers.
But I don't want to do that of reasons already mentioned in here.
I want to make a master key (that I don't have for the bike to copy) from a blank key. Not altering existing tumblers.

[lmiklosy]

I had good luck copying a master key.  Buy blank steel keys from eBay or some hardware stores have them, make a key sandwich with the master key and clamp the pair in a vise. Be careful to align the pair carefully before filing. I used a triangle file to cut out the notches, work slowly and accurately. You can try cutting a blank key from two masters, see if you get a universal key that works in two locks. Experiment!  The cost for several steel blank keys is far less than one visit from a locksmith.  :deal:

[woodgeek]

I can't find the "printable pdf" link and none of the images are showing up below. Does anyone have the pdf version? Thanks!  :2thumbup:

[Laitch]

I can't find the "printable pdf" link and none of the images are showing up below. Does anyone have the pdf version? Thanks!  :2thumbup:

The photos in johnny's post below the opening post—http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,494.msg6948.html#msg6948—show most of the procedure regarding removing the lock cores from Type 3 cases, modifying the wafers on the cylinders, and relate well to the text. Your task is to match them to the text.

Chris Harris has a useful video covering fuel tank cap disassembly. What are you trying to repair, woodgeek?

[woodgeek]

I bought a K100 with three locks but no keys. Trying to figure out the easiest way to get keys that fit. Last Sunday, a locksmith spent two hours to make a key that would work in the ignition but not the helmet lock or gas cap.

The only other motorcycle locksmith in Vegas asks that you trailer the bike to them so they can cut keys. I’m going to ask them if I can bring in the ignition and helmet lock so they can cut a key. Alternately, there’s a guy online you can send your locks to and he copies a key that opens both locks. 🤷‍♂️


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[Laitch]

If you have the ignition key, the other lock cylinders should be able to be adapted to it. If you bring the lock cylinders and ignition key, a skilled locksmith should be able to modify the cylinders so they all open with with the ignition key. That's what this post is all about.

[woodgeek]

Thank you Laitch [emoji106]


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[woodgeek]

I just bought an ignition lock and key on eBay for $40 so now I can re-key my other locks.  :2thumbup:

[Laitch]

I just bought an ignition lock and key on eBay for $40 so now I can re-key my other locks.  :2thumbup:

I thought you already had a key that would work in the ignition.

I bought a K100 with three locks but no keys. Trying to figure out the easiest way to get keys that fit. Last Sunday, a locksmith spent two hours to make a key that would work in the ignition but not the helmet lock or gas cap.

[woodgeek]

I thought you already had a key that would work in the ignition.

I wanted him to cut me a key that would operate the ignition, gas cap and helmet lock. I wasn't going to pay for a key that only operated only the ignition.

[Laitch]

Last Sunday, a locksmith spent two hours to make a key that would work in the ignition but not the helmet lock or gas cap.

I wanted him to cut me a key that would operate the ignition, gas cap and helmet lock. I wasn't going to pay for a key that only operated only the ignition.

He spent two hours making a key that you didn't buy?

[woodgeek]

He spent two hours making a key that you didn't buy?

To be honest, I guess I was confused about locksmith etiquette or protocol. I called him and told him what bike I had and what I wanted--a key that would operate my ignition and seat/helmet lock. He finagled one of the blanks that he had until it would operate the ignition but it wouldn't operate the seat lock or gas cap. He said he would come back when he had the correct blank for the bike.


Was I supposed to offer to pay for one key that did part of the job? He didn't ask but I supposed I should have offered. I thought it was sort of like contracting for a service and you pay when the job is complete. Now I feel like a heel. My wife's always tell me I can be dense. I need to call the guy and take care of things.

[Laitch]

Locksmith etiquette. I'm unsure if Emily Post described that.

If he made you a key that worked in the ignition, then that key can be used to modify the other cylinders for its successful usage in them, according to the instructions in this thread. If the locksmith were under the impression that you lost a key that worked in all those locks, then it would be reasonable for him to expect that his making one for the ignition would work for all of them; however, old bikes often have replacement parts with locks differently keyed. This thread explains how to make them work with one key.

Buying an ignition switch and key on eBay is unlikely to help your problem but there is an outside chance that the key with the used ignition switch might work in the other locks. There weren't many different key and cylinder combinations, from what I've read. I bought two replacement cylinders for my side cases. They came with keys but my ignition key worked in the locks.  :yes

Having a spare ignition switch can be helpful anyway.  :2thumbup:

[dalebK75]

The ibmwr.org page on rekeying a top case [size=78%]http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/topcase.html[/size]
links to a writeup with pics by Butch Hayes, but that cox.net page is no longer available.


Using the Wayback machine at archive.org, you can still see the Butch's page from 2011:
https://web.archive.org/web/20110818060533/http://www.members.cox.net/r1100rs/bmw/rekey.html

[k]

Johnny,

Thanks for your detailed and extremely helpful post. Thanks for unlocking the secret of the keeper tumbler in the latch. The cylinder came out just as you described. I bent a paper clip into a hook to apply pulling pressure to the cylinder.

[triplek]

I was a bit stumped for a moment on swapping glove box locks.  Should anyone else find this easy task a stumper - one of mine had a crusted over hex head that looked at first like a rivet.  The other in the swap had a screw. 



Also: is anyone aware of whether generic lock wafers purchased online are compatible?  I really need retaining wafers that go at the end of the cylinders, but can't find those at all - just the wafer sets without retainers.