Engine Refresh

[wmax351]

Browsing Craigslist, and found a low miles '95 K75 engine for 70 bucks, less the water pump, fuel injectors, with the clutch. I'm going to put it on my bike, when I am replacing the clutch, as my 100k engine is getting a bit tired (uses a good amount of oil, blowby, etc). Leaks in a few places too.

However, before I put it on, I may go through the engine to make sure it is fresh, break the glaze on the cylinders to make sure I can seat the rings/break-in as I would like, reseal, etc.

Any thoughts?

[TimTyler]

Don't forget this thread.

[wmax351]

Kind of tempted to deck the head/block a bit. It would bump the power and efficiency. Large inlet valves would just be the cost of grinding the seats plus the valves.

I need to resist the urge to put a turbo on it. Would be fun to do, but somewhat pointless.

So far, the plan is to do a re-seal, and deglaze the cylinders. I'll inspect everything while i am in there, maybe balance the pistons/rods too. I figure if I am going to the effort to put a new engine in, I should basically have it so the engine is like new, with no leaks, etc.

Cost will be about 200 bucks for the seal kit, con-rod bolts, and gudgeon pin circlips. The price could go up a bit if I find anything wrong, but I would rather find it now. I may want to get the block hot-tanked to clean it up too.

[frogy]

Let the spending begin

[wmax351]

Let the spending begin

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-VAUXHALL-VIVARO-2-0-M9R-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-GARRETT-GT15S-/261187558730?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ccffddd4a

hmmmmm

[johnny]

this is the turb i run on my motobrick...

j o

[wmax351]

Finals done, time to work.  :2thumbup:

Pics to come.

[johnny]

 

[wmax351]

Its almost all the way apart. Just need to make a valve spring compressor, and I'll have it completely stripped.


Going to be cleaning in pinesol and hot water. DIY hot tank. Seems to work pretty well on the one casting I tested.

[Grim]

DO NOT "DEGLAZE THE CYLINDERS" till you do some reseach.

 This is not a buick motor. The cylinders are not lined with steel and are cut with a very special process that leaves the silcone impregnated in the aluminum exposed as the wear surface. If you try to do a conventional hone the motor will eat itself in a very short time. 
Porsche 928 engines are the same way and LOTS of destroyed motors from people not being aware of the correct process.
I'm trying to find where I read this. I believe it was on Flyingbrick.de

From Here I found some refference: http://www.k100.biz/pdf/OFF/K100RT_maintenance.pdf

All castings are of aluminum alloy, the main crankcase being made as
light and compact as possible by the use of plated cylinder bores instead of separate
(usually cast iron) liners. The pistons run in bores which are accurately machined in the
crankcase and given a hard bearing surface by having a thin layer of nickel/silicon
carbide ('Scanimet') deposited electrically and ground to the required tolerances.

More info is available on the process if you research Porsche 928's as they were built the same way.

[wmax351]

DO NOT "DEGLAZE THE CYLINDERS" till you do some reseach.

 This is not a buick motor. The cylinders are not lined with steel and are cut with a very special process that leaves the silcone impregnated in the aluminum exposed as the wear surface. If you try to do a conventional hone the motor will eat itself in a very short time. 
Porsche 928 engines are the same way and LOTS of destroyed motors from people not being aware of the correct process.
I'm trying to find where I read this. I believe it was on Flyingbrick.de

From Here I found some refference: http://www.k100.biz/pdf/OFF/K100RT_maintenance.pdf

All castings are of aluminum alloy, the main crankcase being made as
light and compact as possible by the use of plated cylinder bores instead of separate
(usually cast iron) liners. The pistons run in bores which are accurately machined in the
crankcase and given a hard bearing surface by having a thin layer of nickel/silicon
carbide ('Scanimet') deposited electrically and ground to the required tolerances.

More info is available on the process if you research Porsche 928's as they were built the same way.

Yeah, some of the aircooled porsches and later bmw airheads are the same way. Deglaze is  really just detergent and scotchbrite. A ball hone can be used to, because it doesn't actually remove anything from the nikasil surface.

[wmax351]

Just about done with the cleaning. Pine-sol knock off, followed by dish soap and water. Also, I used an engine cleaning wand, which hooks up to a compressor, to blast it with fairly concentrated dish soap and water. Seems to work quite well.

[wmax351]

Engine is back together, except for the right cover (which is coming off of the old one, the new one is rashed). I sanded down and painted the left cover, making it look nice, and the rash unnoticeable.

Next step is planning when to do the swap. Have to budget several days straight to go through the whole process and do it without tying up the garage completely or keeping the bike out of comission.

[wmax351]

Out with the old.


I'm going to reseal the trans too (output seal is leaking).

[sh00ter]

Is there a thread or a good how to on that tranny output seal refresh? 

[wmax351]

Is there a thread or a good how to on that tranny output seal refresh?

I'll make one if you want. Its basically transmission disassembly, followed by seal removal.

[sh00ter]

Think that'd be great if you're gonna do it anyway.

[wmax351]

Think that'd be great if you're gonna do it anyway.

So far, its pretty straightforward. Just following the BMW and Haynes manuals.


http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=2252.0




The pepto-bismol is Redline shockproof gear oil. Flows like oil, film strength like grease. [size=78%]http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8[/size]
Highly recommended.

[wmax351]

Well, first deviation from the manuals: they instruct you to pound out the breather sleeve. It is in there really good, and doesn't need to come out: the shifter lever slide rod fits through.

[argent brick]

The pepto-bismol is Redline shockproof gear oil. Flows like oil, film strength like grease.

So, which one did you use? Heavy, lightweight, or Superlight?  I can see where the pink color should help you find any leaks.  I have never changed my gear oil and don't know when it was done by the PO, if ever.

[wmax351]

The pepto-bismol is Redline shockproof gear oil. Flows like oil, film strength like grease.

So, which one did you use? Heavy, lightweight, or Superlight?  I can see where the pink color should help you find any leaks.  I have never changed my gear oil and don't know when it was done by the PO, if ever.

The "Heavy" should be best for the application. 85w-145 fluid viscosity.

[wmax351]

And its done.  :clap:


Runs great. Started right up (after cranking w/o the spark plugs to fill the oil system). Much peppier, smoother, and cleaner. No leaks or smoke.


Did a post-mortem on the old engine. Glad I replaced it. I didn't measure anything, but the piston/cylinder clearance was big (could wiggle the pistons a little) and feel a slight ridge in the cylinder. Also were scuff marks on the cylinder walls. None of the rings were broken. Wear on the main  and big end bearings was noticeable. Intake valves were fine, but the exhausts were worn. Not burned, but on their way out.


Overall, very interesting project, and glad I did it.

[johnny]

i needs a maxisquert...

j o

[CRASH]

How many miles were on the old engine that you swapped out?

[wmax351]

How many miles were on the old engine that you swapped out?

By the Odometer, 99,128. It may have been more, but I'm not 100% sure.