Author Topic: Rough Runin' K11 (Read 52160 times)

mystic red · « **Reply #50 on:** June 05, 2011, 01:35:26 AM »

Quote from: frankenduck on June 05, 2011, 12:04:37 AM

Yeah, that's some weird chit. I've got the BMW parts catalog and it says "This part not installed in the specified vehicle." WTF?

Maybe you should just JB Weld it to the engine block. ;D

My lower box just rattles around in there. No big deal until you try to separate the upper from the lower to slide m/f-ing air filter in. Then THAT turns into a 4 man job.
Any idea about the hoses? One runs down to the crankcase connection, where the fuel vapors used to be routed before I 86'd that by installing the "air accumulator".
I think those hoses are Cali emission ch!t.

Quote

FYI: the bolt size for a K75 is M8x30

Thanks Scott, I'll go to my fastener dude and find a couple of those.

Scott_ · « **Reply #51 on:** June 05, 2011, 12:12:59 PM »

Quote from: mystic red on June 04, 2011, 10:25:17 PM

Also, I have no bolts to attach the bottom of the air box to the engine. There are just 2 rubber grommets filling the holes that lead to threaded holes in the engine. I think I'll find a couple and put them in to make changing the f-ing air filter easier.

Don't feel too bad, mine didn't have any bolts fastening mine down either. It just sits there on some rubber pads. They do have a little nipple on them to set into the hole in the block for horizontal alignment, but no threaded bolt to fasten it down solid.
I can't remember how much time I wasted trying to remove them only to realize that the airbox bottom just sat there and was not fastened down. :o

I did replace the smaller rubber hoses in/out of the airbox. I'd have to find the packing list to get the part #'s if you would like.
IIRC there are 3.
2 on the front and 1 on the left rear.

If I was doing it again, I'd eliminate all of them like some others have done. I think it's also what BMW did on the 1200's.

I'll probably eliminate them on my '97 when I renew the rubber bits on it next winter.

mystic red · « **Reply #52 on:** June 05, 2011, 01:40:57 PM »

Quote from: Scott_ on June 05, 2011, 12:12:59 PM

Quote from: mystic red on June 04, 2011, 10:25:17 PM
Also, I have no bolts to attach the bottom of the air box to the engine. There are just 2 rubber grommets filling the holes that lead to threaded holes in the engine. I think I'll find a couple and put them in to make changing the f-ing air filter easier.

Don't feel too bad, mine didn't have any bolts fastening mine down either. It just sits there on some rubber pads. They do have a little nipple on them to set into the hole in the block for horizontal alignment, but no threaded bolt to fasten it down solid.
I can't remember how much time I wasted trying to remove them only to realize that the airbox bottom just sat there and was not fastened down. :o

I did replace the smaller rubber hoses in/out of the airbox. I'd have to find the packing list to get the part #'s if you would like.
IIRC there are 3.
2 on the front and 1 on the left rear.

If I was doing it again, I'd eliminate all of them like some others have done. I think it's also what BMW did on the 1200's.

I'll probably eliminate them on my '97 when I renew the rubber bits on it next winter.

So these hoses are not necessary? Can you just cap them off and do away with them? Emissions crap?

ljjohns · « **Reply #53 on:** June 05, 2011, 07:13:23 PM »

Just asking: if you close off that system--the vent hose connection at the rear and the return hose connection at the front--won't you blow a seal?

Larry Johnson
El Paso TX

mystic red · « **Reply #54 on:** June 05, 2011, 07:56:18 PM »

Quote from: ljjohns on June 05, 2011, 07:13:23 PM

Just asking: if you close off that system--the vent hose connection at the rear and the return hose connection at the front--won't you blow a seal?

Larry Johnson
El Paso TX

That's what I came up with, Larry, not worth the worry. I'm keeping it as is. ;D
It also looks like the short hose on the back is to bleed off air not required for the throttle bodies and is re filtered. If I'm wrong I'm sure I'll be bitch slapped by a crazed waterfowl.

Scott_ · « **Reply #55 on:** June 05, 2011, 08:32:03 PM »

Quote from: mystic red on June 05, 2011, 01:40:57 PM

So these hoses are not necessary? Can you just cap them off and do away with them? Emissions crap?

To a point. Most can be bypassed and re-plumbed together. You are still maintaining the vacuum to the block, just doing it thru the throttle bodies and not the airbox, and eliminating the "cyclonic oil separator" that never really worked either.
PM sent with link to details.

frankenduck · « **Reply #56 on:** June 06, 2011, 12:40:57 AM »

You should use some JB Weld to seal up the valves.

frankenduck · « **Reply #57 on:** June 06, 2011, 05:19:15 PM »

Been there, done that - to the K1:

frankenduck · « **Reply #58 on:** June 06, 2011, 05:21:57 PM »

mystic red · « **Reply #59 on:** June 06, 2011, 10:47:06 PM »

Quote from: frankenduck on June 06, 2011, 05:19:15 PM

Been there, done that - to the K1:

I figured you'd been there before but I didn't think it would've been on the K1. What was up with that?

johnny · « **Reply #60 on:** June 06, 2011, 11:07:51 PM »

you gotta be kidding me... all this fuss over the cracked rubbers...

dude... the bug... i just smeared jb weld on the rubber then wrapped them with electrical tape the slathered a coat of of liquid electrical tape over that...

j o

frankenduck · « **Reply #61 on:** June 07, 2011, 12:15:30 AM »

Quote from: mystic red on June 06, 2011, 10:47:06 PM

Quote from: frankenduck on June 06, 2011, 05:19:15 PM
Been there, done that - to the K1:

I figured you'd been there before but I didn't think it would've been on the K1. What was up with that?

It's 20 year old plastic on top of an engine that's seen 80k+ miles and doG knows how many heat cycles. Not surprising to me at all.

mystic red · « **Reply #62 on:** June 07, 2011, 05:49:43 AM »

Quote from: johnny on June 06, 2011, 11:07:51 PM

you gotta be kidding me... all this fuss over the cracked rubbers...

dude... the bug... i just smeared jb weld on the rubber then wrapped them with electrical tape the slathered a coat of of liquid electrical tape over that...

j o

I know............ ;D ;D ;D

mystic red · « **Reply #63 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:10:57 PM »

I moved my little pictorial of the intake manifold and fuel rail removal to K1100 Intake Manifold Rehab so it would be easier to find. I'll add to it when I put it all back together.

frankenduck · « **Reply #64 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:12:51 PM »

Klinker'll do it for you.

(In three years. ;D)

mystic red · « **Reply #65 on:** June 20, 2011, 05:45:35 PM »

I'm just about to say "stick a fork in me". Ran better with the air leak fixed but I only got 110 miles before the low fuel light went on. Pulled the plugs when I got home and #4 was black and wet.. Going to try new plugs cause this thing hasn't run right since I Ebayed those NGKs. F me runnin'.

frankenduck · « **Reply #66 on:** June 20, 2011, 05:48:49 PM »

Cap was probably loose on #4.

Scott_ · « **Reply #67 on:** June 20, 2011, 07:16:52 PM »

Well didn't he say he had a loose cap on #1 a week ago or so? and since 1 & 4 share the same coil, it's not supprising that #4 hadn't been firing either.

frankenduck · « **Reply #68 on:** June 20, 2011, 07:59:18 PM »

Check that the resistances on your coil wires are in the same range.

Sell it to me for a grand. I'll be there tomorrow with my trailer. :-*

mystic red · « **Reply #69 on:** June 20, 2011, 08:35:58 PM »

Sorry, I meant #1. Same one that doesn't want to sync. Cause it's not firing.
The thing is, I go back to work tomorrow and don't have time to dick with it before the weekend. If I was sure it was a coil and you had one I'd ride it to Clarkston and swat out in the parking lot. That seems like the only thing it could be though, right? Plug wires have the right resistance. I'd really like to go on this trip but I'm not goin' running a suped down K75. :'(

frankenduck · « **Reply #70 on:** June 20, 2011, 09:02:25 PM »

Did you check the screw-on caps on the plugs?

And it would be a K82.5, not a K75.

mystic red · « **Reply #71 on:** June 20, 2011, 10:25:04 PM »

Called jo and he said, duh, pull the #1 and see if if sparks connected to the wire. Yea, it sparks, right out the side of the wire to the engine and then down through me. Did it again (kinda liked it) and I found a cut in the wire. Magnecor to the rescue.

frankenduck · « **Reply #72 on:** June 20, 2011, 10:38:38 PM »

If'n you can't get one there in time then I can Priority Mail one to you and it should be there in a day or two since you're close.

And why do you put cuts in your spark plug leads???

robleyd · « **Reply #73 on:** June 21, 2011, 01:09:02 AM »

Quote

And why do you put cuts in your spark plug leads???

Lets the excess amperage escape without overloading the plug ;D

mystic red · « **Reply #74 on:** June 21, 2011, 06:00:50 AM »

Quote from: frankenduck on June 20, 2011, 10:38:38 PM

If'n you can't get one there in time then I can Priority Mail one to you and it should be there in a day or two since you're close.

And why do you put cuts in your spark plug leads???

I'll ring you up on the telly if Magnacor can't get me a new set in time.
I like the sparky ch!t. Keeps my heart going.

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Author Topic: Rough Runin' K11 (Read 52160 times)