Author Topic: Water/oil pump seal question  (Read 47572 times)

Offline JoePap

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #50 on: February 25, 2016, 08:01:53 AM »
Following on from my previous post.

The shaft is not pitted.  It looks like new. 

It's a very low miles bike.  Just under 10,000 on the clock.
  • Watford, Hertfordshire, UK
  • K75RT, K100LT, K1100RS

Offline stokester

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #51 on: February 25, 2016, 08:12:52 PM »
Did you also get the updated spacer bushing?

I replaced the original seal on my '93 K75S and did not replace the original spacer bushing which was 14mm with the updated one at 10mm and it leaked worse than the original drips.

Nick
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

Offline JoePap

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #52 on: February 26, 2016, 04:27:26 PM »
Yes, I bought the kit from Motobins including new water pump seal, new oil seal, O-rings, smaller spacer bush and water impeller.  The shaft is in very good condition - no pitting.

I fitted the water pump seal carefully and pulled it into place using first washers and then the new smaller spacer.  The pump felt very tight when rebuilt.  Almost too tight to turn by hand.  I tapped the impeller bolt lightly which seemed to ease the mechanism but the pump still felt a bit tight.  I fitted the pump back onto the bike using RTV silicone sealant but it drips through the drain hole.
  • Watford, Hertfordshire, UK
  • K75RT, K100LT, K1100RS

Offline JoePap

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #53 on: March 01, 2016, 06:13:50 AM »
I've resolved it now.  Fitted a third seal and got it right this time.  It's easy when you know how.

Solution : Need to carefully drift the water pump seal into the housing using a large socket and seat it all the way in before pulling the shaft through using washers and the impeller bush.  I had mistakenly though pulling the seal onto the shaft was part of the seating process.

Thanks for suggestions and info.
  • Watford, Hertfordshire, UK
  • K75RT, K100LT, K1100RS

Offline MEZ

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #54 on: November 13, 2018, 10:41:16 PM »
Did you also get the updated spacer bushing?

I replaced the original seal on my '93 K75S and did not replace the original spacer bushing which was 14mm with the updated one at 10mm and it leaked worse than the original drips.

Nick

Hello Gents, old thread I know but i'm just about to attempt this procedure myself and after much reading spotted this spacer bushing difference issue of 10mm/14mm. Can anyone expand on this for me..??  I am fitting a new rotor shaft along with all the recently ordered replacement kit on an engine which I believe to be circa '91 but spotted a stamp on the upper side of the casings with a circled 89. Could that mean the casting was manufactured in '89 but the bike was built in '91...?? Is there a reference facility via BMW for engine numbers that can identify manufacture dates accurately..??

I am also a little concerned about the look of the seal that is in the pump right now after removal. It has the appearance of sealant around the exterior, very strange as this slipring seal is a dry fitment. I will post a close-up picture later today. One bizarre thing is, I'm rightly nervous about getting this job done correctly because of my upcoming trip, I'm surrounded by very competent bike mechanics where I am building the bike but am 'flabbergasted' by how many of them have turned down the challenge of performing the task, even a BMW technician with 30yrs experience graphite shouldered the job back to me, un-fkn-believable but hey-ho here we go....!!!!!!
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Offline Laitch

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #55 on: November 14, 2018, 12:31:41 AM »
One bizarre thing is . . . I'm surrounded by very competent bike mechanics where I am building the bike but am 'flabbergasted' by how many of them have turned down the challenge of performing the task, even a BMW technician with 30yrs experience graphite shouldered the job back to me, un-fkn-believable but hey-ho here we go....!!!!!!
That's not bizarre to most of us, MEZ. That's why we're hanging out here. Please proceed with posting photos.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
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Offline stokester

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #56 on: November 14, 2018, 08:25:32 AM »
Hello Gents, old thread I know but i'm just about to attempt this procedure myself and after much reading spotted this spacer bushing difference issue of 10mm/14mm.
First of all, I did not find this job exceptionally difficult but it does require some patience and you may find some pitting on the shaft which may require replacement.  After the second attempt I discovered the difference in spacer bushing size which was not highlighted in any of the procedures I reviewed.  The attached .pdf is one I put together to add to the docs on IBMWR site but after submitting it twice, it has never been added. :dunno

I remember finding a video of the procedure that brings it up but don't remember where it is located.  Someone here may know, I believe it was done in the UK.
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

Offline stokester

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #57 on: November 14, 2018, 08:43:16 AM »
It may not have been a video but this excellent .pdf of the procedure which mentions on page 11 that the old spacer may not be used.
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

Offline Gibson

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #58 on: November 14, 2018, 02:38:55 PM »
I did the pump seal on my 94' k75 in the spring. Not a difficult job at all. Be careful when pressing the inner part of the seal onto the shaft. Go slow and keep checking as you go. I had to use a some flat washers I vaguely remember. Don't forget to torque the impeller to the specs. Have fun and go slow. :bmwsmile
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Offline MEZ

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #59 on: November 14, 2018, 11:52:42 PM »
Thanks for input gents.

I'm gonna take it steady don't worry. Anyone have an image of the OE impeller fitment because I believe the impeller I removed might be the modification item BMW supply and if you look at the image attached here you can see the wavy edge of gasket goo or silicon used to install the slipring seal which is a dry fitment. Also spot the corrosion of the housing where both seals have to go, I'm getting the pump casing vapour blasted over the weekend and will ask about doing this surface in prep to accept the new seals, should be ok I think and none intrusive to the metallic surface just the scud shown here...!!!
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  • Angel of the North
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Offline Gibson

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #60 on: November 15, 2018, 07:08:21 AM »
Sorry, don't have image, but the new re designed seal uses a different bushing underneath it. The new seal kit should come with the bushing.   
  • Dix Hills NY
  • K75 ABS and R100Mystic

Offline MEZ

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #61 on: November 17, 2018, 01:59:08 PM »

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Ok, after much fretting dithering utubing and googling I decided to just crack on and do it. The vapour blasting was worth the effort in the prep and the slow methodical approach in the install. I could do it a second time piece of cake in a fraction of the time but as with anything obviously so..!!!
  • Angel of the North
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Offline -mek-

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #62 on: January 22, 2020, 07:34:33 AM »
How easy the propeller and shaft should rotate after replacing the seals? I replaced both seals and axle. Did it like this:


I tried to be carefull when assembling the new seals. Everything seems to be ok, but rotating the propeller is tight. I hardly can turn the propeller by hand, without any tools. Have I damaged the cooland seald, even if it seems to be ok.

Old axle:
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Offline Laitch

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #63 on: January 22, 2020, 07:46:09 AM »
It should not be difficult to turn by hand. Did you also replace the cast impeller with a stamped steel impeller?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline -mek-

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #64 on: January 22, 2020, 01:07:40 PM »
Mine allready had a steel impeller. I think I will replace the coolant seal once again, to be on the safe side. It does not take so much neither time or money now, when the pump is still unassembled.
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Offline -mek-

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Re: Water/oil pump seal question
« Reply #65 on: January 28, 2020, 01:03:55 AM »
I ordered a new coolant side seal. I must have damaged the seal when I banged it in. Will give a new try next weekend.
  • Finland
  • 2020 BMW R1250GS

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