Repairable?

[flypig]

https://app.box.com/s/rswxssxk8hjnvo5jqg7xnx7crt9b5ag0
link to public photo folder

Rear-ended a car with '90 K75. Anyone have experience trying to repair?
I would type more but my browser deleted the long post i typed with my one working hand.
yes, insurance likely to total. yes, any frame damage = dead. yes, i will tow yo local dealer for opinion.

thanks for sharing any experience you may have.

44K miles only. :-(

cjb

[The Mighty Gryphon]

How much work do you want to do to bring it back?  Is the engine intact and running?  How much is the insurance company willing to total it out for? 

Bike will have salvage title when you're done I you keep the original frame.

I would guess that you need a frame with clean title, front forks, wheel, and mudguard.  All these parts are fairly common on eBay.  If you do your own work, you can do a frame up restoration for about half of what a replacement brick would cost.  On the other hand, you could part out the undamaged stuff and possibly make $1000 above what the insurance company gives you.

I did the restoration on a 1992 16V RS as a winter project after the insurance company totalled it out.  As I recall, the insurance payout bought a replacement 16V RS as well as covering the cost of the restoration which I wound up selling for a profit of about $500.  Bottom line was that I had a replacement bike with 1/3 the miles and about $1500 cash in pocket when all was said and done.  The replacement bike is the one in my avatar photo.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10661.0.html

[Chaos]

That back shock looks like the frame is seriously tweaked.  Probably easier to find a neglected straight bike and put your good parts on it if you want to go that route. 

[flypig]

Thanks, TMG. Inspiring.

my initial Q is, How likely is it that the frame is ok? a friend said those forks are obviously the weakest point and if the triple tree and head tube are ok, obv that's not a hard repair. Wondering if anyone has repaired after such an impact.

if i get it on a lift, drop the wheel, and head feels ok, should i still take it to the dealer to check? How would an expert check it?
If I replace the front end and then it doesn't ride right, I have a parts bike.

i would probably take the payout and drop $1K into it. I would do the front end but I'm not going to rebiuld a whole bike. don't have the shop or skills.

Any other thoughts on getting accurate eval?

Thanks
CJB

[flypig]

The back shock definitely got whacked, but it appears that the coil got dislodged from the base. I am not entirely sure what part of the crash caused that. If the rear wheel got shoved, i guess there could be damage to the drive train?
howdoes one evaluate a frame for damage?

[flypig]

I wonder if the shock coil got dislodged by the hard bag when it hit the ground and cracked loose.

[Laitch]

I wonder if the shock coil got dislodged by the hard bag when it hit the ground and cracked loose.

That was a hell of an impact. How're you doing, flyingpig?

[Martin]

Reseat the rear spring and check to see if it is bent. If the drive train is intact, try rotating the rear wheel in neutral and see if there are any noises or binding. Then check oil and coolant levels and fuel system for leakage and turn the engine over with the plugs removed. To avoid damage to the ignition system you must earth the plugs. Then try turning it over in gear, then replace the plugs and try starting it, stop if there are any weird noises or fuel leaks. Somewhere somebody found the frame alignment measurements for the K100. If nobody posts it's location you might be able to compare measurements with another bike. Or you could take your own measurements and post them, somebody should have a good spare frame to give you the measurements.
Regards Martin.

[flypig]

I have a fracture on my ankle but I can walk on it in a medical boot. Fracture in left elbow, hence typing with one hand. Amazingly little pain. Back is sore but the chiropracter will get his say soon.

I was lucky, but of course had helmet, armored jacket, gloves, boots on. Rear-ended a car, went over the handlebars, whacked my noggin on his rear window. No headaches or head issues so far!

The biggest luck is that after zipping through Wisconsin's gorgeous Driftless hills, dodging corn harvesters, Amish buggies, and helmet-less Harleys, I crashed in town, a mile from the hospital. Got lots of help, and the cop who gave me NO ticket also drove me from the hospital back to the hotel.

Thanks for asking. After 35 years riding, this is my first real crash with injury. Knock on wood (my hard head)!

cjb

[flypig]

Thanks, Martin. With all my thinking about the frame, I neglected to think about testing the motor!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I would assume the engine to be okay.  Even if it kept running while it was on the ground, the rev limiter would have prevented a runaway.  Worst thing would be that the engine might have run for a couple seconds without oil pressure.  My engine was fine after I was assaulted.

A far as the frame, I personally wouldn't trust it.  The frame tubes appear to be mild steel, and a good whack like you and I had will move things around a little bit(or in my case a lot).  For sure, the steering head bearings should be replaced.  The scary thing is that an almost imperceptible change in head geometry could result in a tank slapper some day when you least expect it. 

As far as the shock, get it off the bike, take it to a shop and have the spring removed.  See if the rod will stroke in and out of the body without binding, and have them put the spring back on.  Shouldn't cost you more than $20.

In my opinion, you have two courses of action; a frame-up rebuild or part out the bike.  I can confirm that the rebuild isn't all that hard, especially with the members here who have done it to their own bikes. 

Believe it or not, a rebuild is probably easier than parting out when you figure in taking stuff apart, writing up listings, and doing the shipping thing.  And is a lot more satisfying.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Here's a '87 frame with a clean title.  Under $300 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-87-95-K75-Complete-Frame-Chassis-Clean-AZ-Title-Paperwork-K75C-K75RT-K75S/283672545299?epid=1811814356&hash=item420c338813%3Ag%3AdIkAAOSwdkNdyd9t&LH_ItemCondition=3000

If you can register and get a title in Wisconsin with a bill of sale, there are 6 more frames on ebay right now.

[flypig]

yeah, as I said, I don't have the shop or skills to DIY beyond maintenance. I felt ambitious doing the spine lube this spring :-0

Replacing forks isn't hard, but you are right in saying one may not know until at speed whether something is out of balance.

Different question...My insurance agent offered to take the bike off my policy for now. Anyone had an issue putting a DIY build or repair back under insurance? They can't know if you've built a POS that's gonna toss you in the ditch...

We'll see what the payout is. Hate to take my bike off the road, only 44K miles. :-(

[Laitch]

I don't have the shop or skills to DIY beyond maintenance.

Under those circumstances, I suggest putting your effort into research to get as much money for the moto as you can based on market comparisons on eBay, forum sales sites and the usual industry resale references. You'll be able to sell off some of the parts—alternator, starter, maybe the transmission, rear drive and driveshaft. You might be able to use them as spares if you get another Brick of the same model. To restore that moto on a new frame will take a large measure of patience, determination, money, tools, space and time.

How fast were you traveling on impact? Internal engine parts could have been affected. You'll know when you try to rotate the crankshaft manually.

[flypig]

Update:
On the lift, dropped the rim, steering feels good, smooth.
Bike started right up and purred.

Progressive insurance "diamond" customer (i assume because they bought diamond earrings with all my premiums and never a claim).

Totaled bike payout offered: $1200 for the bike and $1700 for the "accessories."
Accessories include:
Russell Day Long: $710
Hard bags: $433
End guard: $209 (jpcycles)
Rear rack: $187 (jpcycles)
Passenger back rest: $226 (dennis kirk)

This sounds generous to me. I paid $3k for it at 25k miles in 2013. It now has 44k. Just lubed splines and put on new tires, pads, shock in the spring.

So, i could take that and run. Or, they wlll give me $2600 and I keep the bike.  !!!!

I would need fork tubes, front rim, front tire, front fenders. The dealer quoted them $3500, but they couldn't quote used parts, whereas I can source used parts. I also have to repair the rear shock.

I have some calls to make to settle some details about DIY repair. It will not have a salvage title until I sell it, so I could only sell it for parts. The accident may/will come up at the DMV when I renew the plate, but I have been told that shouldn't be an issue. As in, they shouldn't say "You can't be riding that." I need to look into that. Of course, that's the key. I assume laws vary by state.

So yes, I could repair it and find out that something is unhappy up front at speed. then I have a parts bike. These repairs are within my abilities, while swapping this whole thing to another frame is not in my ability or worth my time.

Voice your opinions...... bring me a K75 I should buy instead....

[Chaos]

heck, $2900 is a good price for a nice running K75, I'd grab their offer and ask about a buyback, if they'll sell it for $500 or so you could easily make that and more parting it out.  Or just take the money and find another bike. 

[flypig]

Ooops, I think it's 2900-400=2500 if I keep it.

Didn't know about buyback idea. I will ask. It would save them trailering it away. They're gonna sell it to someone. I'd buy it just to have my seat back and my new parts.

[K1300S]

take it and run.

[Scott_]

I just went thru a "buy-back" option on my '97 1100LT with Progressive.
They offered $3900 to take it, buy back was $1200.. So I decided I had $1200 worth of parts to keep for my remaining bikes(some that I did need), or to sell if I feel so inclined.
They sent me a payment of $2700, I kept my parts, and bought my '97 1100RT.....

[Motorhobo]

A little late to the party but...

I had a front-ender back in 2005. I opted to have it repaired by the dealer. They 'repaired' it but neglected to tell me the steering stops on the frame had broken off from the impact. In the meantime I had another K75 so by the time I noticed that damage I had left the West Coast and had no recourse. So subsequently the tank sustained damaged from the pinch bolts on the tree smacking into it. I eventually welded some stops on there. But the bike it was never really right again. At the time I had a sidecar on it, and there was a strange creaking sound coming from the triple tree when torquing the bars on turns. I shouldn't have ridden it, but I was attached to it (my first brick). Eventually I got another K75 and kept the damaged one for parts. but I rode it for over ten years and probably dodged the bullet that would have probably killed me had the triple tree failed on the road.

Long story short - you won't know what kind of hidden damage to the front end you have until you get it back on the road and by then you're invested in it and willing to overlook stuff you shouldn't overlook. In retrospect, I should have scrapped that bike and found another one. So to be safe, you should probably do that too.

[alexg]

Do not repair it. If you are sure of the mechanical integrity of your bike, buy a project and use the parts from the wreck as backup.

[flypig]

So.......
I did take the insurance payout that let me keep the bike. I found an identical bike and bought it, so that I know I have a ride in the spring. I have maintenance to do on the new-to-me, but it should be a good ride and motivation for me to rehab myself fully.

I found some front forks on ebay, and a front rim. On the original bike, I have inspected the triple tree(s),... which are called many things by different tribes and publishers... upper and lower fork brace, says fiche. They look good to me. There is no evidence of cracks. I suppose many will say one can never tell.

Anyway, I can't get the fork tubes out. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, or maybe that's in indication that the fork braces are not happy. As I understand it, with wheel off, brakes off, all off down to the fork tubes and sliders, you remove the 2 bolts from the lower and upper fork braces and nothing else should be holding the tubes in place. Yes, the tubes are damaged, and I am free to bang on them as needed. I've banged on a few locations.

i don't think there's any reason for me to remove the sliders (legs). Shall I keep banging on the top, with more gusto? There are slots in the upper and lower fork braces.... interesting design, there's no actual gap in the circumference of the brace like there would be, for example, at the bottom of the fork legs where the axle bolts are tightened. So how the hell does one open that circle up?

CJ Bracewell

[flypig]

I thought I attached both images before. The forum interface is a bit confusing to me. But you all know what these things look like anyway.

[Laitch]

After the impact, the tubes probably were deformed within the the fork cross braces. It wouldn't take much deformity in them to resist removal. Heat the braces, apply Liquid Wrench liberally, then try again, but if this were my relic I'd pitch the entire suspension—braces, tubes, sliders and all—into the metal recycling bin and wouldn't waste precious meditative time dealing with parts that had such an impact. You could keep the axle spacers and bolts for trophies.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Take off the handlebars and remove the top triple clamp so you can remove the lower clamp and the forks from the rest of the bike. 

Remove the fork brace and the axle as well.  Then you should be able to remove the legs one at a time.  I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't necessary to heat the clamps to get the legs out.  The fit of the tube in the clamp is so tight that the slightest misalignment will bind the leg in the clamp.

After a collision like you had, I would replace the steering head bearings, triple clamps and the fork legs at the bare minimum.