Author Topic: Starting Problems  (Read 10561 times)

Offline Zfoster8

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 29
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #50 on: November 07, 2019, 07:26:37 PM »
Daveson,

Currently the switch does nothing but take up space. it was one of the "upgrades" the previous owner started and never followed through with, there are not even any wires connected to it.

I will keep messing with that connection and keep an eye out for a decent priced ignition module, i would like to have the bike as factory-functional as possible for the sake of being able to know what is going on with it at any given time.

your suggestion of grounding through the ICU instead of gear box, do you mean cutting the new wire into the old one? it is a possibility but I got good continuity through that wire so i didn't see any reason to think there was a broken connection there.

The multimeter was used with the following method; meter set to Ohms (200), black terminal touched to ground (same engine ground the wire is connected to now), with the red terminal touched to the 85 terminal, and the 9.85V reading came when the ignition button on the handlebars was pressed.

The bike is going in for an oil change, fuel injector cleaning, and drive shaft oil change in the next week or two anyway, so hopefully there will be no ill effects between then and now.

Let me know if i can elaborate on anything else, i was definitely flying by the seat of my pants through most of this.
  • Eugene OR
  • Now: 1987 K75S Then: 1981 CB900F

Offline daveson

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #51 on: November 07, 2019, 09:51:36 PM »
OK that knocks out just about all of my wishful ideas,  hopefully another clean might do it. 
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline Zfoster8

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 29
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #52 on: November 08, 2019, 11:35:28 AM »
Pardon my typo, I used the Ohms setting to check continuity of the brown/red wire. I used DC voltage to get the 9.85V reading on the 85 terminal.

I would seriously doubt my multimeter's abilities if i got a voltage reading in the ohms setting.
  • Eugene OR
  • Now: 1987 K75S Then: 1981 CB900F

Offline Laitch

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #53 on: November 08, 2019, 12:14:44 PM »
The bike is going in for an oil change, fuel injector cleaning, and drive shaft oil change in the next week or two anyway, so hopefully there will be no ill effects between then and now.
Are you performing the oil change and sending the injectors out for cleaning? What is meant by drive shaft oil change—changing the oil in the final drive, removing the final drive to lubricate the pinion gear shaft splines, or what?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline Zfoster8

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 29
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #54 on: November 08, 2019, 02:55:06 PM »
I am dropping the bike off at the local bmw motorcycle dealership and having them do a complete fluids flush, fuel injection cleaning and service. basically a complete once-over of the bike to make sure it's ship shape without really digging into the guts of it.

I was under the impression that the final drive shaft had it's own oil reserve for lubrication and I am going to venture a guess that it has never been changed.

I am not sure if i will have them go so far as to pull the final drive apart, but it would be a good idea. I will see how much they will charge to do that and weigh it against how difficult it is for me to do by myself in my garage.
  • Eugene OR
  • Now: 1987 K75S Then: 1981 CB900F

Offline daveson

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #55 on: November 08, 2019, 03:51:46 PM »
No need to clean the injectors unless it needs it. It probably only needs a service.  You will be surprised how simple it is to do it yourself with the help of a workshop manual, though intimidating and time consuming the first time.
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline johnny

  • TrailBrakingThrottleWhacker
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  • Whacking...n...Chopping Sliding...n...High Siding
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #56 on: November 08, 2019, 03:52:17 PM »
greetings...

i would not take it to a bmw factory dealer...

if you dont wanna f with it you oughtta think about an independant  wrencher...

if you just gotta take it to a oe dealer... id take ot to craig hansen down the superslabb aways from yous...

j o
  • :johnny i parks my 96 eleven hundert rs motobrick in dodge county cheezconsin  :johnny

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #57 on: November 08, 2019, 04:00:29 PM »
greetings...

i would not take it to a bmw factory dealer...

if you just gotta take it to a oe dealer... id take ot to craig hansen down the superslabb aways from yous...

j o

+1  Dealer techs aren't trained on Classic bricks, and don't have the time to figure them out.  You are better off doing routine maintenance yourself.  You'll save a bucket of cash, and you'll know the job was done right.  It's not really that hard. 
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Martin

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  • Posts: 4437
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #58 on: November 08, 2019, 04:04:44 PM »
Most dealers don't know much if anything about K's and are pretty good at lightening your wallet. Either do it yourself with guidance from this site and workshop manuals, also available from this site. Or find a member close to where you live who is willing to give you a hand. Or as per Jo find a local independent who knows Bricks. Or send all your money to me and I'll consult my  Ouija board and I'll send you astral guidance through the spirit world.
Regards Martin.
  • North Lakes Queensland Australia
  • 1992 K75s Hybrid, Lefaux, Vespa V twin.

Offline Laitch

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #59 on: November 08, 2019, 04:34:04 PM »
I am not sure if i will have them go so far as to pull the final drive apart, but it would be a good idea.
It would be a bad idea. The only time a final drive is "pulled apart" is if a bearing or other part within it needs to be replaced. Maybe by "pulled apart" you mean detached from the swing arm.

The final drive is lubricated by its own oil supply—drain old fluid from the bottom, refill from the top with a measured amount; check with a dipstick. To lubricate the final drive input shaft splines, the drive is detached from the swing arm that houses the driveshaft. That's a four-bolt operation. The final drive input shaft splines are cleaned then a lubricating paste is applied by hand. The input shaft splines are connected to the driveshaft output socket splines; the lubrication is shared.

These are the most basic of maintenance operations. They can be performed with the moto on its centerstand.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline Zfoster8

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 29
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #60 on: November 08, 2019, 04:43:32 PM »
Well this was a pretty overwhelming vote for me to quit being lazy and just do my own work.

For some reason this bike is intimidating to me from a mechanical standpoint, but after reading around in the service manuals and from these replies I think i would be just fine to do probably all of the work myself.

Something about a small car engine being shoe-horned into a streetbike frame is super exciting but makes me think it will be really hard to work on. Time to put on my big boy pants and start putting in the work.
  • Eugene OR
  • Now: 1987 K75S Then: 1981 CB900F

Offline Martin

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #61 on: November 08, 2019, 07:03:13 PM »
Bricks are pretty easy to work on, and most things are easily accessible especially the K75s. Just about any problem has had a solution posted and virtually every procedure has been written up. And you have a brilliant brains trust at your fingertips, however do searches before asking questions and answer questions that have been asked of you.
Regards Martin.
  • North Lakes Queensland Australia
  • 1992 K75s Hybrid, Lefaux, Vespa V twin.

Offline Past-my-Prime

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  • All of us are better when we're loved.
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #62 on: November 08, 2019, 10:34:11 PM »

The final drive is lubricated by its own oil supply—drain old fluid from the bottom, refill from the top with a measured amount; check with a dipstick.
I don't have a dipstick for that. I'm pretty sure it's just fill to the bottom of the fill-hole on the final drive.


To lubricate the final drive input shaft splines, the drive is detached from the swing arm that houses the driveshaft. That's a four-bolt operation.

It was more like a 12 bolt operation for me or maybe 13. Only the very last part was four-bolts!!

Remove wheel, remove brake calipers, detach ABS sensor, take out speedometer speed sensor, detach rear spring, remove final drive from swingarm . . . maybe I was doing it wrong?

Anyway it was lots of fun if you manage to forget what I found when I looked in there :shudder

  • North Shore of Lake Superior (in my garage)
  • BRICK: 1989 K75 RT - Rocinante; NON-BRICK: 2007 F650 GS Dakar - Betty Blue

Offline Laitch

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #63 on: November 09, 2019, 06:46:38 AM »
I don't have a dipstick for that. I'm pretty sure it's just fill to the bottom of the fill-hole on the final drive.
It was more like a 12 bolt operation for me or maybe 13. Only the very last part was four-bolts!!
As long as you're pretty sure; that's what counts. To me, it's just bolt-and-unbolt—a degree of difficulty next to zero, thankfully. :-) I'm still working on arithmetic skills. :-)
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #64 on: November 09, 2019, 08:13:30 AM »
Don't be intimidated by the mechanicals.  A major reason I have three in the garage right now is that they ere really pretty easy and satisfying to work on.  Just relax and take your time.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, maintenance is is like foreplay, take your time, pay attention, and enjoy doing it.  The ride is your reward.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline stokester

  • ^ SuperNatural Motobricker
  • Posts: 802
Re: Starting Problems
« Reply #65 on: November 09, 2019, 12:29:55 PM »
Don't be intimidated by the mechanicals.  A major reason I have three in the garage right now is that they ere really pretty easy and satisfying to work on.  Just relax and take your time.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, maintenance is is like foreplay, take your time, pay attention, and enjoy doing it.  The ride is your reward.
I only have two bricks but also have two airheads for the same reason.
I've found both models easy to work on with an avid following that willingly share expertise and assistance.
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

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