starter relay replacement (aftermarket)

[dougo]

there is an old thread "Abandon Starter Relay" that I used to replace mine. I used the relay pictured on page 3 of the thread, made sure of my connections, made sure the diode was soldered between terminals 85 and 86 with the diode towards 85 (positive) terminal. all hooked up correctly, and.... no go. What am I missing... maybe I misunderstood the connections or something. Help. thanks.

[johnny]

greetings..

poast that picture and the link to that thread here...

j o

[dougo]

Uh Johnny I don't know how....

[johnny]

greetings...

then we caint help you...


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better ping rbm... looks like some need the resistor some dont...

j o

[daveson]

Can you tell us more, how did you do it?  Does it at least click with ignition on? If not does it click when removed with battery positive to 86 and negative to 85? Continuity to 30 and 87 when energized?

I hope you get this to work. It will be a big bonus if it does.

[rbm]

The diode has to be inserted into the circuit so that it normally resists the flow of current.  That is to say, the anode (+ve) of the diode should be to the ground side of the coil and the cathode (-ve) of the diode towards the +12V side of the coil. Is yours in this configuration?

[dougo]

Rbm, when you look at the physical diode, is the line on the casing at the cathode end? If so then it is right.. If not I'll have to get out my soldering iron again.

I seem to hear the relay click when I press the starter button. And I hear the fuel pump start to run as well.

I printed your diagram and used it while soldering....

Daveson I'll have to do a continuity check when I get the chance , thanks for that.

Johnny thank you for putting the example up.

I'll keep everyone posted. Watching the Dodgers and nationals right now though.

[johnny]

greetings...

look dougo... poast a photo of the diode and the install for gawdssakes...

j o

[dougo]

John will do. Thanks for your encouragement.

[rbm]

Rbm, when you look at the physical diode, is the line on the casing at the cathode end? If so then it is right.. If not I'll have to get out my soldering iron again.

Yes, the line on the diode case corresponds to the cathode (line) on the schematic symbol.  When looking at the symbol, the symbol resembles an arrow and remember that current flows freely in the direction of the arrow.  In this circuit, you want the diode to normally resist the natural flow of current from +ve to -ve.

[dougo]

Ok so I rechecked the schematic and looked at the new relay. I had the diode reversed. so I switched it out with a new one and soldered it correctly this time. . Still no go . No power thru the relay to the starter... Then I checked for power to the relay, and when I press the starter no current goes to the relay itself. Wondering if I killed something some how... The starter is fine....works with a direct connect. I'm doing the research, but if you have any suggestions I'm open.

There is power to and from the starter switch, the fuel pump is priming when you hit the switch. Still researching....
Pictures would be redundant at this point...

[dougo]

After some research and bridging the starter connections to get the engine to turn over with no luck starting and running the engine, it is my guess that I fried the ecu or some other electronic part necessary for the bike to start and run... Hard lesson....

[daveson]

Do you have continuity from the starter switch to the starter relay?

[dougo]

Daveson it does.

[daveson]

Bumma.

Do you have 12 volts between battery positive and 85?

[Laitch]

After some research and bridging the starter connections to get the engine to turn over with no luck starting and running the engine, it is my guess that I fried the ecu or some other electronic part necessary for the bike to start and run...

There are function tests for both the fuel injection control unit and the ignition control unit within the troubleshooting guide pdf in the Repair Guidance section's No Start category. Download the document and scroll down to find them.

[dougo]

Laitch thank you I'll go there...

[bmwcyclist]

Could I use this as a drop in replacement if I wired in the connector?

It appears to have a diode in the diagram.


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Would be cheaper, and up to 130 amp from the stock 70.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Relay-BMW-61-36-9-198-302-p/rel-302.htm

.

[rbm]

Yes, you can use this relay to replace the OEM starter relay.  However it will not be a drop-in replacement.  The coil connector looks like a Superseal type and not the older AMP style used on the K-bike.  It means you have to change the connector on the harness or build a jumper cable (better idea) using the appropriate style connectors.

[Past-my-Prime]

(I always ask questions out of ignorance) - is there an issue with draw on a relay? I mean, can a relay require more current to close the contacts than OE and result in problems with wiring or switches or the like?

Don't spare my feelings!!

[rbm]

Yes, there could be issues if you select a relay that draws excessive coil current.  The ICU is designed to endure a maximum amount of current draw from the relay's coil.  If you install a relay who coil expects a greater delivery of current to work, the transistors in the ICU could get destroyed with the heat created by the excess current.  Typically though, automotive relays only draw hundreds of milliamperes of current through their coils which is insufficient to create this problem.  It's more likely that a direct short across the coil contacts would damage the ICU.

[enb54]

I realize this thread is a few years old, but this has happened to me, the new Bosch replacement for the original Bosch 0 332 002 161 is a Bosch 0 332 002 168 which I got from Amazon Canada for About $42 CDN. They can also be purchased in USA from Summit Racing for about $30 U.S.

[bmwcyclist]

I found that once they start going you will continue to replace them.

This was my final solution :

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7704.msg124912#msg124912

[enb54]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on everything, starter motor looks OK so a cheap relay I'm willing to try once. If it goes again I'll be doing the dual relay thing, but keeping fingers crossed...
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Got any good tips about replacing those e-clips at the bottom rear of the fuel tank? Not too thrilled with the BMW originals...

[Laitch]

I found that once they start going you will continue to replace them.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7704.msg124912#msg124912

In the post sited above, what happened between Step 3—the replacement of the ICU, and Step 4—the addition of the second relay? Did another OEM relay fail after you replaced the ICU?